Answers.Body: <p>The <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=C" rel="nofollow noreferrer">replacement part</a> is available in trans clear plastic, I would suggest using them to either replace the existing beams or be connected to either side. It will be a bit cheaper if you decide to use white beams instead.</p>
  <p>The poor quality of the clone brand pieces is one thing, but I think you might want to consider tackling the issue of weight. If you are already happy with making modifications to the structure, consider removing or substituting some of the pieces in the floating castle.</p>
  <hr />
  <p>Perhaps in addition to any modifications I would also suggest using a clear fast-setting super glue.</p>
  <p>I use <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001C42J9I" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Loctite Clear Super Glue</a> to adhere tips to my pool cue and it can last well until the tip has worn down. It is best to roughen up the surface a bit before applying the glue so that it adheres better.</p>
  <p>Make sure you only glue the pieces and not the actual connections if you want to be able to dissemble the model. Give the glue plenty of time to set without putting any tension or compression on the joint.</p>
  <p>The result will be nearly invisible, and could even be stronger than the original beams depending on the quality of plastic used.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-05-05T19:46:40.547Z
Answers.Text: Will try this out. Parts on the way. I bought both white and clear, going to see what I can do to swap out the weaker ones. White should be fine since it'll link into the cloud, and the illusion is already pretty breathtaking without the arms being clear.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Compass
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-05-14T16:41:00.697Z
Answers.Text: Have you had any luck?
Answers.UserDisplayName: Ambo100
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-05-16T07:25:47.700Z
Answers.Text: Sorry I took so long to get back, the parts got delayed and didn't get here until late this week. I managed to reinforce it successfully. I'll provide some pictures of what I actually did as an additional answer.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Compass
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-05-04T23:11:27.210Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2021-06-09T14:52:06.430Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2021-06-09T14:52:06.430Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Ambo100
Body: <p>I purchased a clone MOC out of interest a few months back, this following set.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6JxZ1.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6JxZ1.jpg" alt="MOC in question" /></a></p>
  <p>Because it does use clone pieces, I knew there was a high chance of breakage and poor fit, especially in the tensegrity arm actually supporting the upper structure. The arm failed today, so my plan is to replace and reinforce the original arms with official Technic parts.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/poif9.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/poif9.jpg" alt="Complete Breaks" /></a></p>
  <p>My plan is to use the 5x3 L beams from Technic to alleviate the strain on the angled portion of the liftarm, which is taking a lot of weight. The arm, removed from the set, currently is bowed in due to the strain.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/HeaNq.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/HeaNq.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p>Because the snaps happened on the outside corner, I was wondering if attaching L beams on the outside or inside corners would be sufficient, or if there is another method of reinforcing this liftarm so that the stress in that region is reduced.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/tFBv0.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/tFBv0.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p>Adding the L beams in parallel with the liftarm would distribute tension to the L beams rather than just the angled bit, which should reduce the stress.</p>
  <p>Alternatively, adding them underneath would (hopefully) add compression on the L beams in the opposite direction.</p>
  <p>I believe that the official technic pieces should be a bit stronger on the replacement liftarms, but I'd like to reduce the strain in this area anyways, so alternative solutions are also welcome.</p>
  
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2021-05-04T08:29:28.290Z
Comments.Text: To keep the overall look, I would use one additional Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thick 1 x 11.5 Double, part 32009, in trans-clear. Maybe add one to the other liftarms as well, to be sure that they don't break after a while. If your background is black, you could use black liftarms to make them even more invisible.
Comments.UserDisplayName: Metalbeard
Tags: <technic><clone-brands><repair>
Title: Reinforcing a pair of Bent Double 11.5 Liftarms under Rotational Tension
UserDisplayName: Compass
ThreadText: # Reinforcing a pair of Bent Double 11.5 Liftarms under Rotational Tension
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2021-05-03)
  
  I purchased a clone MOC out of interest a few months back, this following set.
  
  [![MOC in question](https://i.sstatic.net/6JxZ1.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/6JxZ1.jpg)
  
  Because it does use clone pieces, I knew there was a high chance of breakage and poor fit, especially in the tensegrity arm actually supporting the upper structure. The arm failed today, so my plan is to replace and reinforce the original arms with official Technic parts.
  
  [![Complete Breaks](https://i.sstatic.net/poif9.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/poif9.jpg)
  
  My plan is to use the 5x3 L beams from Technic to alleviate the strain on the angled portion of the liftarm, which is taking a lot of weight. The arm, removed from the set, currently is bowed in due to the strain.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/HeaNq.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/HeaNq.png)
  
  Because the snaps happened on the outside corner, I was wondering if attaching L beams on the outside or inside corners would be sufficient, or if there is another method of reinforcing this liftarm so that the stress in that region is reduced.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/tFBv0.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/tFBv0.jpg)
  
  Adding the L beams in parallel with the liftarm would distribute tension to the L beams rather than just the angled bit, which should reduce the stress.
  
  Alternatively, adding them underneath would (hopefully) add compression on the L beams in the opposite direction.
  
  I believe that the official technic pieces should be a bit stronger on the replacement liftarms, but I'd like to reduce the strain in this area anyways, so alternative solutions are also welcome.
  
  **Tags:** technic, clone-brands, repair
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: To keep the overall look, I would use one additional Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thick 1 x 11.5 Double, part 32009, in trans-clear. Maybe add one to the other liftarms as well, to be sure that they don't break after a while. If your background is black, you could use black liftarms to make them even more invisible.  
  
  ---
  
  ## 1 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_2 on 2021-05-04. Score: 2 | Accepted answer
  
  The [replacement part](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=C) is available in trans clear plastic, I would suggest using them to either replace the existing beams or be connected to either side. It will be a bit cheaper if you decide to use white beams instead.
  
  The poor quality of the clone brand pieces is one thing, but I think you might want to consider tackling the issue of weight. If you are already happy with making modifications to the structure, consider removing or substituting some of the pieces in the floating castle.
  
  ---
  
  Perhaps in addition to any modifications I would also suggest using a clear fast-setting super glue.
  
  I use [Loctite Clear Super Glue](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001C42J9I) to adhere tips to my pool cue and it can last well until the tip has worn down. It is best to roughen up the surface a bit before applying the glue so that it adheres better.
  
  Make sure you only glue the pieces and not the actual connections if you want to be able to dissemble the model. Give the glue plenty of time to set without putting any tension or compression on the joint.
  
  The result will be nearly invisible, and could even be stronger than the original beams depending on the quality of plastic used.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Will try this out. Parts on the way. I bought both white and clear, going to see what I can do to swap out the weaker ones. White should be fine since it'll link into the cloud, and the illusion is already pretty breathtaking without the arms being clear.  
  > **username_2**: Have you had any luck?  
  > **username_0**: Sorry I took so long to get back, the parts got delayed and didn't get here until late this week. I managed to reinforce it successfully. I'll provide some pictures of what I actually did as an additional answer.  
  
  ---
  
  