Answers.Body: <p>In electrical engineering one might call it:
  DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) Momentary (On)-Off-(On) Reversing Polarity Toggle Switch.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zteiB.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zteiB.jpg" alt="dpdt"></a></p>
  
  <p>Momentary in this configuration means that it's spring loaded towards its centre position.</p>
  
  <p>Edit: I'm not sure though, see the comment below. I have the remotely controlled switch points from the gray era and they work like above.</p>
  
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-23T13:34:16.903Z
Answers.Text: Are you sure it is a momentary switch? The 2-pole power supply connects to the side of the switch, and a 3-pole connector connects to the back leading to the points. From what I can see in the pictures it looks like the switch is a normal toggle switch with only two positions. Though I can't be sure. The points itself have a built-in switch which is toggled once the points are in position, unpowering the solenoids.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Midas
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-23T13:56:50.263Z
Answers.Text: You might be right.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-23T14:17:44.760Z
Answers.Text: Yes, it looks like there is a difference between grey/blue era. The blue ones use two solenoids (one for each direction), so I guess the grey ones use one solenoid only (reversing the polarity to change the direction).
Answers.UserDisplayName: Midas
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-23T14:40:15.967Z
Answers.Text: I've updated my question. Could you take a look?
Answers.UserDisplayName: Midas
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-23T18:34:07.873Z
Answers.Text: I might ask TLG for this. There are several possibilties. I didn't know the switch has a 3-pole output. If it moves barely the two solenoids might be in series, but then, mentioning the interlocked end switch might obstruct power flow to switch back again. I don't like re invent the wheel. Neither do I own the switch nor the railswitch so I can't find out. What we need is a datasheet. TLG can clear this up for us.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
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Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-24T16:09:44.290Z
Answers.Text: Hey Niels, thanks again for your response. Actually the clue lies in this picture: https://i.sstatic.net/fLzUG.jpg
  I was using a 12V DC adapter, assuming the voltage for the points had to be the same as the train itself. Since all three connectors on the transformer are identical, a child could easily plug in the wrong connectors, so I assumed both would have to be the same voltage. It turns out the points actually use 16V AC. I will answer my own question once I have verified this, since I have no 16V adapter yet.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Midas
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2017-01-24T18:40:56.193Z
Answers.Text: Ah. Nice find Midas. The transformer from the grey era has a blindplated 13VAC output which might work fine. The plate can easily be removed. https://questforbricks.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/the_transformer_3.jpg
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
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Answers.LastEditDate: 2017-04-18T18:50:55.917Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Niels
Body: <p>I'm looking for a wiring diagram or some information about the internal connections of this <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=1244" rel="nofollow noreferrer">switch</a> from the blue train era.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/4nn05.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/4nn05.png" alt="LEGO 12V switch"></a></p>
  
  <p>It is used for controlling the <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=754-1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">automatic points</a>, and is visible on the original box:</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Fkkvt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Fkkvt.jpg" alt="LEGO automatic points"></a></p>
  
  <p>The points connect to the back of the switch using a 3-pole connector:</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/4Bnhj.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/4Bnhj.png" alt="LEGO 3-pole connector"></a></p>
  
  <p>I want to use a microcontroller to operate the points without manually pushing buttons. Since I don't have any of these, I cannot measure the connections (using a multimeter).</p>
  
  <p>Does anyone own this switch, and cares to share some information?</p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p>This is how I think the switch works. I have tried wiring it this way and it works, however the points barely move. Perhaps the problem lies with the solenoids inside the points?</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/jYvEf.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/jYvEf.png" alt="LEGO switch schematic"></a></p>
  
Tags: <piece-information><trains>
Title: Wiring diagram of this blue 12V switch?
UserDisplayName: Midas
ThreadText: # Wiring diagram of this blue 12V switch?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2017-01-22)
  
  I'm looking for a wiring diagram or some information about the internal connections of this [switch](http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=1244) from the blue train era.
  
  [![LEGO 12V switch](https://i.sstatic.net/4nn05.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/4nn05.png)
  
  It is used for controlling the [automatic points](http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=754-1), and is visible on the original box:
  
  [![LEGO automatic points](https://i.sstatic.net/Fkkvt.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/Fkkvt.jpg)
  
  The points connect to the back of the switch using a 3-pole connector:
  
  [![LEGO 3-pole connector](https://i.sstatic.net/4Bnhj.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/4Bnhj.png)
  
  I want to use a microcontroller to operate the points without manually pushing buttons. Since I don't have any of these, I cannot measure the connections (using a multimeter).
  
  Does anyone own this switch, and cares to share some information?
  
  ---
  
  This is how I think the switch works. I have tried wiring it this way and it works, however the points barely move. Perhaps the problem lies with the solenoids inside the points?
  
  [![LEGO switch schematic](https://i.sstatic.net/jYvEf.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/jYvEf.png)
  
  **Tags:** piece-information, trains
  
  ---
  
  ## 1 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2017-01-23. Score: 2
  
  In electrical engineering one might call it:
  DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) Momentary (On)-Off-(On) Reversing Polarity Toggle Switch.
  
  [![dpdt](https://i.sstatic.net/zteiB.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/zteiB.jpg)
  
  Momentary in this configuration means that it's spring loaded towards its centre position.
  
  Edit: I'm not sure though, see the comment below. I have the remotely controlled switch points from the gray era and they work like above.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Are you sure it is a momentary switch? The 2-pole power supply connects to the side of the switch, and a 3-pole connector connects to the back leading to the points. From what I can see in the pictures it looks like the switch is a normal toggle switch with only two positions. Though I can't be sure. The points itself have a built-in switch which is toggled once the points are in position, unpowering the solenoids.  
  > **username_1**: You might be right.  
  > **username_0**: Yes, it looks like there is a difference between grey/blue era. The blue ones use two solenoids (one for each direction), so I guess the grey ones use one solenoid only (reversing the polarity to change the direction).  
  > **username_0**: I've updated my question. Could you take a look?  
  > **username_1**: I might ask TLG for this. There are several possibilties. I didn't know the switch has a 3-pole output. If it moves barely the two solenoids might be in series, but then, mentioning the interlocked end switch might obstruct power flow to switch back again. I don't like re invent the wheel. Neither do I own the switch nor the railswitch so I can't find out. What we need is a datasheet. TLG can clear this up for us.  
  > **username_0**: Hey Niels, thanks again for your response. Actually the clue lies in this picture: https://i.sstatic.net/fLzUG.jpg I was using a 12V DC adapter, assuming the voltage for the points had to be the same as the train itself. Since all three connectors on the transformer are identical, a child could easily plug in the wrong connectors, so I assumed both would have to be the same voltage. It turns out the points actually use 16V AC. I will answer my own question once I have verified this, since I have no 16V adapter yet.  
  > **username_1**: Ah. Nice find Midas. The transformer from the grey era has a blindplated 13VAC output which might work fine. The plate can easily be removed. https://questforbricks.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/the_transformer_3.jpg  
  
  ---
  
  