Answers.Body: <p>You could always put a screw through a 2x2 plate and use it to fix the corners, the rounded corners on the road plates won't be damaged, and you only lose a very small, cheap part.</p>
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/s7t2q.png" alt="enter image description here" /></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-10T09:26:11.830Z
Answers.Text: Nice, but I'm going to guess that the middle of a baseplate is still going to flex a lot unless you take care as to how you remove elements from it.
Answers.UserDisplayName: gev
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-10T22:44:38.253Z
Answers.Text: If you use technic plates with the holes, you might not even damage any pieces at all.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-13T01:39:01.877Z
Answers.Text: My only immediate concern would be the edge of the table then.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Jesse Schweitzer
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-10T08:15:26.403Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-08-10T08:15:26.403Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2020-06-18T08:28:58.637Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Windfire
Answers.Body: <p>I mounted baseplates to a sheet of plywood in order to hang a mosaic as follows:</p>
  
  <ol>
  <li>Roughly sand the plywood and the backs of the baseplates.</li>
  <li>Squirt a generous helping of Liquid Nails on one of the surfaces.</li>
  <li>Lay out your baseplates on the plywood using regular plates as spacers (i.e., attach plates across the boundaries between two baseplates in order to maintain correct spacing.</li>
  <li>Randomly distribute plate elements across the surfaces of the baseplates.</li>
  <li>Clamp a second piece of plywood across the top of the plate elements.</li>
  <li>Let dry/cure for 24 hours.</li>
  <li>Remove all of the plate elements.</li>
  </ol>
  
  <p>The reason for step (4) is to create a level surface on which the top sheet of plywood can press when clamped.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-13T01:40:19.693Z
Answers.Text: This is a good idea, except the table will be 4' by 8'.  Harder to clamp and distribute weight, but not impossible.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Jesse Schweitzer
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-10T18:15:34.337Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-08-11T02:13:18.190Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2014-08-11T02:13:18.190Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: oddTodd
Answers.Body: <p>LEGO plates are made from ABS plastic, as are plastic shower surround materials. Buy a caulk tube of shower surround adhesive (I have used loctite power grab from Home Depot $5). Scuff the back of the LEGO plates with some sandpaper and apply the adhesive with a fine notched trowel and slap it on your wood ;) Gently press any lumps out. To date I've made 4 LEGO tables like this and it works wonderfully. </p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-11-05T05:34:21.853Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2017-11-28T12:17:44.590Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2017-11-28T12:17:44.590Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Chris
Answers.Body: <p>Have you considered using velcro-strips? You can cut it to whatever size you want and it won't permanently damage your basepalces like glue wood. And there is also various versions of two-sided tape. Some of them are very strong and can even hold picture-frames on walls. So they should definitely hold baseplates down. </p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-13T01:41:12.410Z
Answers.Text: The problem I foresee with velcro would be the uneven "lumps" where the velcro straps would be.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Jesse Schweitzer
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-13T13:11:47.977Z
Answers.Text: I have used velcro on baseplates and it wasn't lumpy or uneven. Velcro comes in different shapes, sizes and thickness. There are some that are very thin but still have enough grip. If you add enough it is fine. I used the small dot kind that is very thin on 32x32 baseplates; at the corners, few on the sides sides and few in the middle. If you do full strips of the thicker Velcro on all sides and a larger piece in the middle it should even be more stable and should still be fine (not lumpy). If you're interested I would suggest to check with your local craft/hobby store and see their selection.
Answers.UserDisplayName: TheBrickBlogger
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-08-10T15:04:23.157Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-08-10T15:04:23.157Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: TheBrickBlogger
Answers.Body: <p>I have had success with super glue (LocTite). I recommend it because:</p>
  <ol>
  <li>You don't need much glue to get it solidly attached. This means, if you are careful, no mess or cleanup, and no worry of bulging or unevenness of the plate.</li>
  <li>It adheres extremely fast, so there is no need for clamping. You can just press it together by hand for a half a minute.</li>
  <li>If you don't get some edge or corner adhered properly, super glue comes with a long nozzle that will allow you to patch it up.</li>
  <li>The bind should be strong without needing to rough up the surfaces. It makes the job quick &amp; easy.</li>
  <li>Common: almost any sort of store, even a dollar store, is likely to have it.</li>
  </ol>
  <p><strong>Important</strong>: Do not ignore what the other answers say about using a block attached to two plates to get the spacing between them right. If you butt the plates directly against one another, they will be too close to attach a piece to both; and if you put very much of a gap between the plates, they will be too far apart.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2020-10-22T00:04:18.960Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2020-10-22T02:59:15.353Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2020-10-22T02:59:15.353Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Keith Pinson
Answers.Body: <p>I used double sided vinyl flooring adhesive.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-04-19T00:21:26.307Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-04-19T00:21:26.307Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: user19909
Answers.Body: <p>I used spray-on contact cement (the kind where you spray both surfaces, wait for them to get tacky, and then press together).</p>
  
  <p>It worked okay but the baseplates slid out of alignment over time and started coming off around the edges.</p>
  
  <p>If I did it over again, I would use nuts and bolts after first aligning all the baseplates with each other using small plates, like Windfire though not necessarily through the plates. The important thing is they be well tightened and evenly spaced. And if I needed to fix or replace a baseplate for some reason then that would have been easier with bolted-on plates as well.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2017-11-28T12:18:39.907Z
Answers.Text: Good to know what doesn't work as well - thanks :)
Answers.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2017-11-28T04:08:02.363Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2017-11-28T04:08:02.363Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: f1r3br4nd
Body: <p>I'm building a Lego city, and I want to permanently glue the road onto the table.  But I don't want it to be "lumpy", or melt, and I want to make sure that the baseplates will not come off the table, whether it be water or indirect heat (such as sunlight).  A friend suggested furniture glue, but I'm not sure that'll be strong enough or flat enough. </p>
  
  <p>Any ideas welcome.</p>
  
Tags: <glue>
Title: What's the best way to glue/adhese the street baseplates to a plywood table?
UserDisplayName: Jesse Schweitzer
ThreadText: # What's the best way to glue/adhese the street baseplates to a plywood table?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2014-08-10)
  
  I'm building a Lego city, and I want to permanently glue the road onto the table. But I don't want it to be "lumpy", or melt, and I want to make sure that the baseplates will not come off the table, whether it be water or indirect heat (such as sunlight). A friend suggested furniture glue, but I'm not sure that'll be strong enough or flat enough.
  
  Any ideas welcome.
  
  **Tags:** glue
  
  ---
  
  ## 7 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2014-08-10. Score: 14
  
  You could always put a screw through a 2x2 plate and use it to fix the corners, the rounded corners on the road plates won't be damaged, and you only lose a very small, cheap part.
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/s7t2q.png)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_2**: Nice, but I'm going to guess that the middle of a baseplate is still going to flex a lot unless you take care as to how you remove elements from it.  
  > **username_3**: If you use technic plates with the holes, you might not even damage any pieces at all.  
  > **username_0**: My only immediate concern would be the edge of the table then.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_4 on 2014-08-10. Score: 10
  
  I mounted baseplates to a sheet of plywood in order to hang a mosaic as follows:
  
  1. Roughly sand the plywood and the backs of the baseplates.
  2. Squirt a generous helping of Liquid Nails on one of the surfaces.
  3. Lay out your baseplates on the plywood using regular plates as spacers (i.e., attach plates across the boundaries between two baseplates in order to maintain correct spacing.
  4. Randomly distribute plate elements across the surfaces of the baseplates.
  5. Clamp a second piece of plywood across the top of the plate elements.
  6. Let dry/cure for 24 hours.
  7. Remove all of the plate elements.
  
  The reason for step (4) is to create a level surface on which the top sheet of plywood can press when clamped.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: This is a good idea, except the table will be 4' by 8'.  Harder to clamp and distribute weight, but not impossible.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_5 on 2015-11-05. Score: 7
  
  LEGO plates are made from ABS plastic, as are plastic shower surround materials. Buy a caulk tube of shower surround adhesive (I have used loctite power grab from Home Depot $5). Scuff the back of the LEGO plates with some sandpaper and apply the adhesive with a fine notched trowel and slap it on your wood ;) Gently press any lumps out. To date I've made 4 LEGO tables like this and it works wonderfully.
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_6 on 2014-08-10. Score: 4
  
  Have you considered using velcro-strips? You can cut it to whatever size you want and it won't permanently damage your basepalces like glue wood. And there is also various versions of two-sided tape. Some of them are very strong and can even hold picture-frames on walls. So they should definitely hold baseplates down.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: The problem I foresee with velcro would be the uneven "lumps" where the velcro straps would be.  
  > **username_6**: I have used velcro on baseplates and it wasn't lumpy or uneven. Velcro comes in different shapes, sizes and thickness. There are some that are very thin but still have enough grip. If you add enough it is fine. I used the small dot kind that is very thin on 32x32 baseplates; at the corners, few on the sides sides and few in the middle. If you do full strips of the thicker Velcro on all sides and a larger piece in the middle it should even be more stable and should still be fine (not lumpy). If you're interested I would suggest to check with your local craft/hobby store and see their selection.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_7 on 2020-10-22. Score: 3
  
  I have had success with super glue (LocTite). I recommend it because:
  
  1. You don't need much glue to get it solidly attached. This means, if you are careful, no mess or cleanup, and no worry of bulging or unevenness of the plate.
  2. It adheres extremely fast, so there is no need for clamping. You can just press it together by hand for a half a minute.
  3. If you don't get some edge or corner adhered properly, super glue comes with a long nozzle that will allow you to patch it up.
  4. The bind should be strong without needing to rough up the surfaces. It makes the job quick & easy.
  5. Common: almost any sort of store, even a dollar store, is likely to have it.
  
  **Important**: Do not ignore what the other answers say about using a block attached to two plates to get the spacing between them right. If you butt the plates directly against one another, they will be too close to attach a piece to both; and if you put very much of a gap between the plates, they will be too far apart.
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_8 on 2022-04-19. Score: 2
  
  I used double sided vinyl flooring adhesive.
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_9 on 2017-11-28. Score: 1
  
  I used spray-on contact cement (the kind where you spray both surfaces, wait for them to get tacky, and then press together).
  
  It worked okay but the baseplates slid out of alignment over time and started coming off around the edges.
  
  If I did it over again, I would use nuts and bolts after first aligning all the baseplates with each other using small plates, like Windfire though not necessarily through the plates. The important thing is they be well tightened and evenly spaced. And if I needed to fix or replace a baseplate for some reason then that would have been easier with bolted-on plates as well.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_10**: Good to know what doesn't work as well - thanks :)  
  
  ---
  
  