Answers.Body: <p>Well, I opened it up without much success, and took some pictures of the process:</p>
  
  <p>At first I tried pushing/prying the light grey tabs away from the dark gray "bottom", but those weren't budging</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zG9Cl.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>So plan B: wedge it apart:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Zl1mH.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>It was opening, but I was also distorting the plastic in the process - perhaps if I had a hot air station or something, I could have of softened it, but eventually it gave way:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/IWnPf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>I didn't open it just yet, but rather went to work on the other side - I made my way around from the front/back, as it seemed easier than going at it directly from the side. Anyways, it was much easier than the first side, and I got it open:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/F3biE.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>Nothing fell out, and I didn't rip any wires out by opening it, so I proceeded to take out the motor:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/LpxE7.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>This is where something finally fell out - there was a little "spacer" disk (visible in the top-left) that was between the end of the axle and the back side of the plastic housing. </p>
  
  <p>After that, the electrical connection assembly slid off easily - not sure what the component is or how to test if it's good, but it seems like it was made such that it's replaceable - no solder was used, just metal "crimps" </p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3ga4l.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>This is where I found out that the motor itself is good if I just connect a battery to it directly, so I think I may end up drilling some holes and have a DIY wire coming out the back - all the contacts on the inside seemed good and clean, but unfortunately the bottom seems to be rusted to the point of not making contact anymore. </p>
  
  <p>I think it will snap back together just fine, but it will have scars from the surgery. </p>
  
  <p>For anyone curious, the motor itself is a mabuchi 70586, but any FC-280 motor should fit.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-07-22T16:02:28.967Z
Answers.Text: You were lucky that the snap fit joints didn't break. I attempted basically the same thing in order to strap a PF plug to such a motor and broke about half of them in the process. Had to use super glue to put everything back together.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Shadocko
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2017-03-14T15:03:21.313Z
Answers.Text: Some precisions: the shiny disk is a resettable thermal fuse aimed at limiting current in the motor if it is stalled for a long time. The black cylinder is a 15V surge suppressor, limiting voltage spikes caused by motor brushes.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Philo
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2015-07-11T22:47:18.137Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2016-02-02T20:18:28.970Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2016-02-02T20:18:28.970Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: user2813274
Body: <p>I have an ancient 74569 motor:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/TAN35.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>
  
  <p>Unfortunately, it's broken: The shaft spins freely by hand, but when I connect power to it, it doesn't spin at all.</p>
  
  <p>I would like to see if I can just open it and place a new DC motor inside, but without breaking it if possible – has anyone opened one of these before or posted instructions as to how?</p>
  
  <p>I was thinking something like this motor:</p>
  
  <p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/2pzUgm.png" alt="dc motor"></p>
  
  <p>would fit inside it, but of course I would check the dimensions first and make sure it's not a bad solder joint or something else. </p>
  
  <p>I see <a href="http://www.philohome.com/motors/motor.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Philo has disassembled its replacement here</a>, but I don't see anything similar for the 74569.</p>
  
Tags: <motor><customization><repair><disassembly><discontinued>
Title: Can I safely dissassemble a 74569 motor (the old, fast 9v one)
UserDisplayName: user2813274
ThreadText: # Can I safely dissassemble a 74569 motor (the old, fast 9v one)
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2015-07-10)
  
  I have an ancient 74569 motor:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/TAN35.jpg)
  
  Unfortunately, it's broken: The shaft spins freely by hand, but when I connect power to it, it doesn't spin at all.
  
  I would like to see if I can just open it and place a new DC motor inside, but without breaking it if possible – has anyone opened one of these before or posted instructions as to how?
  
  I was thinking something like this motor:
  
  ![dc motor](https://i.sstatic.net/2pzUgm.png)
  
  would fit inside it, but of course I would check the dimensions first and make sure it's not a bad solder joint or something else.
  
  I see [Philo has disassembled its replacement here](http://www.philohome.com/motors/motor.htm), but I don't see anything similar for the 74569.
  
  **Tags:** motor, customization, repair, disassembly, discontinued
  
  ---
  
  ## 1 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_0 on 2015-07-11. Score: 12
  
  Well, I opened it up without much success, and took some pictures of the process:
  
  At first I tried pushing/prying the light grey tabs away from the dark gray "bottom", but those weren't budging
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/zG9Cl.jpg)
  
  So plan B: wedge it apart:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/Zl1mH.jpg)
  
  It was opening, but I was also distorting the plastic in the process - perhaps if I had a hot air station or something, I could have of softened it, but eventually it gave way:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/IWnPf.jpg)
  
  I didn't open it just yet, but rather went to work on the other side - I made my way around from the front/back, as it seemed easier than going at it directly from the side. Anyways, it was much easier than the first side, and I got it open:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/F3biE.jpg)
  
  Nothing fell out, and I didn't rip any wires out by opening it, so I proceeded to take out the motor:
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/LpxE7.jpg)
  
  This is where something finally fell out - there was a little "spacer" disk (visible in the top-left) that was between the end of the axle and the back side of the plastic housing.
  
  After that, the electrical connection assembly slid off easily - not sure what the component is or how to test if it's good, but it seems like it was made such that it's replaceable - no solder was used, just metal "crimps"
  
  ![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/3ga4l.jpg)
  
  This is where I found out that the motor itself is good if I just connect a battery to it directly, so I think I may end up drilling some holes and have a DIY wire coming out the back - all the contacts on the inside seemed good and clean, but unfortunately the bottom seems to be rusted to the point of not making contact anymore.
  
  I think it will snap back together just fine, but it will have scars from the surgery.
  
  For anyone curious, the motor itself is a mabuchi 70586, but any FC-280 motor should fit.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: You were lucky that the snap fit joints didn't break. I attempted basically the same thing in order to strap a PF plug to such a motor and broke about half of them in the process. Had to use super glue to put everything back together.  
  > **username_2**: Some precisions: the shiny disk is a resettable thermal fuse aimed at limiting current in the motor if it is stalled for a long time. The black cylinder is a 15V surge suppressor, limiting voltage spikes caused by motor brushes.  
  
  ---
  
  