Answers.Body: <p><a href="http://www.fineclonier.com/Decal_Application.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This guide here</a> (<a href="https://www.scribd.com/document/154036281/Decal-Application" rel="nofollow noreferrer">off-site backup</a>) in the BrickJournal magazine has a section titled &quot;Step Three: Protecting Your New Figure – Application of a clear top coat&quot;. It recommends Future’s floor wax or Badger overcoats and discourages the use of nail polish due to its tendency to yellow when exposed to sunlight.</p>
  <p>They suggest applying two layers, each dried with a hair dryer to achieve a smooth, bubble-free surface.</p>
  <p>Admittedly, these instructions are for display models, not figures that are going to endure the wear during play or everyday carrying along several keys, but these layers can be reapplied when they are damaged and will protect the figure and its paint while the overcoat is intact.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-02-26T00:07:29.577Z
Answers.Text: The link is 404
Answers.UserDisplayName: Jonas Stein
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2021-02-26T06:30:44.077Z
Answers.Text: @JonasStein Thanks, I have no idea whether the error is transient or if the site is gone forever, so I have added another link to the same document stored on another site.
Answers.UserDisplayName: zovits
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-12-19T09:33:14.137Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2021-02-26T06:29:36.780Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2021-02-26T06:29:36.780Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: zovits
Answers.Body: <p>I would think a clear coat of paint would protect it fairly well, until the clear coat rubs off, so you may need to reapply periodically or apply multiple coats.  Just make sure whatever you use is approved for plastics and it should work fine.</p>
  
  <p>A thin coating should still allow most of the joints to work, if that isn't a requirement you could apply a thicker coating of a clear epoxy.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-12-18T21:45:43.990Z
Answers.Text: Have you tried something like this? I figured this would be the answer but I was hoping to hear something a little more definitive with relation to using on a minifig of some kind.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Matthew Green
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-12-18T21:37:12.033Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-12-18T21:37:12.033Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Josh King
Answers.Body: <p><a href="http://www.customminifig.co.uk/custom-lego-painting-guide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">http://www.customminifig.co.uk/custom-lego-painting-guide/</a></p>
  <p>Here's someone that paints LEGO's. The seal they use should work for you. You should apply more coats for more protection.</p>
  <blockquote>
  <p>How about sealer?</p>
  <p>Yes, always. If you spend this much time working on something, you want it to last. Sealer should be the last thing you do to your custom, painted parts before they are complete. I recommend an acrylic matte finish, but some people use gloss for certain things (it is supposed to protect better). I personally don’t want a “shiny” look on finished parts.</p>
  <p>Another option is to use a gloss coat, allow to dry, then apply a flat coat for “maximum protection without the shine” (sounds like a commercial!), but I usually just stick with flat sealer only.</p>
  </blockquote>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-10-29T00:46:52.073Z
Answers.Text: Tip: You should include the name of the sealer in your answer in case the link ever breaks.
Answers.UserDisplayName: David Lechner
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-10-28T23:04:17.530Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2021-02-25T15:15:35.287Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2021-02-25T15:15:35.287Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: user7863
Answers.Body: <p>zovits recommends not using nail polish. I once had a chipped tile floor that I painted with nail polish. It stayed looking good for over 5 years. This was in a high-traffic part of my kitchen. The polish stayed shiny and prevented the tile from chipping further.</p>
  
  <p>I suspect that a keychain probably isn't going to be sitting in the sun too much, but even so, the ABS plastic will discolour anyway, irrespective of the nail polish.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2014-12-21T06:23:15.447Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2014-12-21T06:23:15.447Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
Answers.Body: <p>My solution to preserving your LEGO figures graphics would be to use translucent plasti-dip, which is normally used for tools to give them a grip as well as color code them. Assuming, of course, that you're using the figure as a key fob and not actually playing with it.</p>
  
  <p>My first idea was that a clear, squeeze self-sealing coin pouch would work, but couldn't find one, then plasti-dip came to mind.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2019-07-11T07:53:17.737Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2019-12-12T12:45:52.750Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2019-12-12T12:45:52.750Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Creativeoutlit
Body: <p>I've purchased a few of the Lego keychain minifigs. Each time I've bought a new one was to replace the previous one because it had most or all of the paint rubbed off from going in and out of pockets and whatnot. </p>
  
  <p>Here is my most recent example of the wear on my minifig keychain.
  <img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5DDQW.jpg" alt="Worn minifig keychain"></p>
  
  <p>You can see that the mouth is almost completely missing.</p>
  
  <p>Is there something that I can do to protect the paint and keep it from rubbing off?</p>
  
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2014-12-17T20:13:23.170Z
Comments.Text: I was going to say don't keep them in the same place as your keys but I realise how stupid that sounds. I'm just curious, do you know what Minifigure it is?
Comments.UserDisplayName: Ambo100
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2014-12-17T22:13:08.090Z
Comments.Text: Yep, I have to say I've resigned myself to replacing my keychains every year or so as they tend to lose their hands and printing.
Comments.UserDisplayName: Zhaph - Ben Duguid
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2014-12-17T22:26:10.343Z
Comments.Text: I actually lost a hand on this one and then my wife mysteriously found it in the back seat of her car a few months later. It's a shame they have to be replaced instead of just 'retired'.
Comments.UserDisplayName: Matthew Green
Tags: <minifigures><preservation>
Title: Protecting a minifig from wear
UserDisplayName: Matthew Green
ThreadText: # Protecting a minifig from wear
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2014-12-17)
  
  I've purchased a few of the Lego keychain minifigs. Each time I've bought a new one was to replace the previous one because it had most or all of the paint rubbed off from going in and out of pockets and whatnot.
  
  Here is my most recent example of the wear on my minifig keychain.
  ![Worn minifig keychain](https://i.sstatic.net/5DDQW.jpg)
  
  You can see that the mouth is almost completely missing.
  
  Is there something that I can do to protect the paint and keep it from rubbing off?
  
  **Tags:** minifigures, preservation
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: I was going to say don't keep them in the same place as your keys but I realise how stupid that sounds. I'm just curious, do you know what Minifigure it is?  
  > **username_2**: Yep, I have to say I've resigned myself to replacing my keychains every year or so as they tend to lose their hands and printing.  
  > **username_0**: I actually lost a hand on this one and then my wife mysteriously found it in the back seat of her car a few months later. It's a shame they have to be replaced instead of just 'retired'.  
  
  ---
  
  ## 5 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_3 on 2014-12-19. Score: 6 | Accepted answer
  
  [This guide here](http://www.fineclonier.com/Decal_Application.pdf) ([off-site backup](https://www.scribd.com/document/154036281/Decal-Application)) in the BrickJournal magazine has a section titled "Step Three: Protecting Your New Figure – Application of a clear top coat". It recommends Future’s floor wax or Badger overcoats and discourages the use of nail polish due to its tendency to yellow when exposed to sunlight.
  
  They suggest applying two layers, each dried with a hair dryer to achieve a smooth, bubble-free surface.
  
  Admittedly, these instructions are for display models, not figures that are going to endure the wear during play or everyday carrying along several keys, but these layers can be reapplied when they are damaged and will protect the figure and its paint while the overcoat is intact.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_4**: The link is 404  
  > **username_3**: @JonasStein Thanks, I have no idea whether the error is transient or if the site is gone forever, so I have added another link to the same document stored on another site.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_8 on 2014-12-21. Score: 6
  
  zovits recommends not using nail polish. I once had a chipped tile floor that I painted with nail polish. It stayed looking good for over 5 years. This was in a high-traffic part of my kitchen. The polish stayed shiny and prevented the tile from chipping further.
  
  I suspect that a keychain probably isn't going to be sitting in the sun too much, but even so, the ABS plastic will discolour anyway, irrespective of the nail polish.
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_5 on 2014-12-18. Score: 4
  
  I would think a clear coat of paint would protect it fairly well, until the clear coat rubs off, so you may need to reapply periodically or apply multiple coats. Just make sure whatever you use is approved for plastics and it should work fine.
  
  A thin coating should still allow most of the joints to work, if that isn't a requirement you could apply a thicker coating of a clear epoxy.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Have you tried something like this? I figured this would be the answer but I was hoping to hear something a little more definitive with relation to using on a minifig of some kind.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_6 on 2016-10-28. Score: 3
  
  <http://www.customminifig.co.uk/custom-lego-painting-guide/>
  
  Here's someone that paints LEGO's. The seal they use should work for you. You should apply more coats for more protection.
  
  > How about sealer?
  >
  > Yes, always. If you spend this much time working on something, you want it to last. Sealer should be the last thing you do to your custom, painted parts before they are complete. I recommend an acrylic matte finish, but some people use gloss for certain things (it is supposed to protect better). I personally don’t want a “shiny” look on finished parts.
  >
  > Another option is to use a gloss coat, allow to dry, then apply a flat coat for “maximum protection without the shine” (sounds like a commercial!), but I usually just stick with flat sealer only.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_7**: Tip: You should include the name of the sealer in your answer in case the link ever breaks.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_9 on 2019-07-11. Score: 2
  
  My solution to preserving your LEGO figures graphics would be to use translucent plasti-dip, which is normally used for tools to give them a grip as well as color code them. Assuming, of course, that you're using the figure as a key fob and not actually playing with it.
  
  My first idea was that a clear, squeeze self-sealing coin pouch would work, but couldn't find one, then plasti-dip came to mind.
  
  
  ---
  
  