Answers.Body: <p>The <a href="http://brickset.com/sets/9679-1/AT-ST-Endor" rel="nofollow noreferrer">AT-ST &amp; Endor (9679)</a> uses cogged connectors (<a href="http://brickset.com/parts/4210884" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4210884</a> + <a href="http://brickset.com/parts/4211803" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4211803</a>, I don't know if the combination of both parts has a name) for the legs. These connectors are pretty strong for their size, they may be sturdy enough for your model if it's not too heavy.</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/EfKtI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/EfKtIm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p>For bigger constructions and higher degrees of freedom, beam with balls and cups can be used, they allow rotations and movements in two axis. For example, the <a href="http://brickset.com/parts/4593555" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><em>Beam A 5M Ball/Cup Ø10.2</em></a> (they are other <a href="http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&amp;catString=749&amp;catType=P&amp;v=1" rel="nofollow noreferrer">similar parts on Bricklink</a>):</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/6zrPg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/6zrPg.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>For example, <a href="http://brickset.com/sets/75112-1/General-Grievous" rel="nofollow noreferrer">General Grievous (75112)</a> arms and legs can be adjusted in many ways:</p>
  
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/wRRsf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/wRRsfm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T12:44:25.447Z
Answers.Text: Thanks, that is already a good start. However, I also need parts moving on multiple axis (like a human hip or shoulder for example). Any suggestion ?
Answers.UserDisplayName: z3r0
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T12:56:19.180Z
Answers.Text: @z3r0 I added the balls and cups, I hope that it won't be too big for your models.
Answers.UserDisplayName: A.L
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:00:04.983Z
Answers.Text: Thanks for the idea, unfortunately those parts are _way_ too big for what I intend to do. Do you happen to know any alternative ? Other than that, the cogged connectors seem a rather interesting concept for mono-axis (is it even English ?) articulation.
Answers.UserDisplayName: z3r0
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T12:37:15.090Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2016-08-24T12:55:42.720Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2016-08-24T12:55:42.720Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: A.L
Answers.Body: <p>You could use the plate ball and cup joints like <a href="http://brickset.com/parts/6043656" rel="nofollow noreferrer">6043656</a> and <a href="http://brickset.com/parts/4239654" rel="nofollow noreferrer">4329654</a> (and a few other parts with balls that will fit)</p>
  
  <p>These parts:
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/2Va2p.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/2Va2p.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
  
  <p>One caveat though, brick #2 from the left does not have much sturdiness in holding joints together. 1, 3, and 6 are good though.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:11:28.567Z
Answers.Text: The two small ones in the middle of the picture seem to have size characteristics close to what I'm looking for. Do you happen to know if that specific ball-cup combination has friction (allowing specific poses) ? If I remember correctly, the other ones don't. Also, do you know if the 1x1x1 ball holder also comes in different shapes (1x2x1 like its left neighbour) ?
Answers.UserDisplayName: z3r0
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:21:02.403Z
Answers.Text: @z3r0 From experience, the two in the middle do have enough friction, however, there is no 1x2x1 for that piece.
Answers.UserDisplayName: SMS von der Tann
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:42:36.957Z
Answers.Text: Well, I guess I'll try to find some ball-cup combination somewhere to test their _friction_. Could you please write the designation of the two parts in the middle ?
Answers.UserDisplayName: z3r0
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:48:44.620Z
Answers.Text: @z3r0 14704 for the 2x2x1 socket and 3614 for the 1x1x1 with ball.
Answers.UserDisplayName: SMS von der Tann
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T21:42:12.960Z
Answers.Text: In my experience, #5 from the left, when paired with #1 or #6, has no friction worth mentioning.  I don't know about the other pairings.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Mark
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T13:03:42.490Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2016-08-24T14:40:49.530Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2016-08-24T14:40:49.530Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: SMS von der Tann
Answers.Body: <p>I think the best technique for building a sturdy Lego structure is to start with a wide and big base and then stack up with smaller bricks. I took part in a Lego challenge and one of the challenges was to build a big Lego tower. So, I decided to start with a big base. Then, I built up with smaller bricks. When I did my test to see which was the best, I found out that a bigger base is better. I also am doing a science fair on which Lego structure is strongest when dropped. I haven't done it yet but I believe that a square base will be the strongest instead of the other bases I have chosen. I love building with Legos but a big pet-peeve is when they break. That is why I am doing my science fair experiment to see which structure is the best. I will let you know when I have my data.</p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2020-10-05T14:57:12.427Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2020-10-05T14:57:12.427Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Evan
Body: <p>So I have been using <em>LEGO®</em> for a rather long time and over the years, I started going towards small constructions. While doing this, I began building rather small robots (<em>Mobile Frames</em> for those who know), between ~8cm and ~11cm or approximately 8 to 11 studs.</p>
  
  <p>Those mechs I build are articulated and I want them to have as many articulations as possible (<em>e.g.</em> a leg should have a hip, a knee and an ankle, not only a hip). <br/>
  The problem is the sturdiness of the whole construction. I have tried multiple options and the articulations are often either too weak to stay in position correctly or too fragile to support other parts, leading to structure vulnerability and eventually <em>destruction</em> of either portions of or the whole robot.</p>
  
  <p>My question is the following : do you know any <strong>compact yet sturdy articulation building technique</strong> or any small articulation part ? <br/>
  Bonus : if you can provide a method allowing me to build more or less <em>on</em> the articulation (not sure if that's very clear).</p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p><em>EDIT</em> : For posing reasons, the articulation needs to have some 'friction' to keep a specific angle.</p>
  
  <hr>
  
  <p>Should there be any problem with the question (wrong formulation, bad English, need for clarification), please don't hesitate to point it out.</p>
  
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2016-08-24T14:57:13.827Z
Comments.Text: This doesn't actually answer your question, hence the comment as opposed to an answer, but for larger constructions the 24-tooth clutch gear works well.
Comments.UserDisplayName: TLW
Comments.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 3.0
Comments.CreationDate: 2016-08-25T07:04:11.403Z
Comments.Text: Well, building tricks are always welcome, especially when it comes to _LEGO®_.
Comments.UserDisplayName: z3r0
Tags: <building>
Title: Articulations : which technique to use on small constructions for sturdiness?
UserDisplayName: z3r0
ThreadText: # Articulations : which technique to use on small constructions for sturdiness?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2016-08-24)
  
  So I have been using *LEGO®* for a rather long time and over the years, I started going towards small constructions. While doing this, I began building rather small robots (*Mobile Frames* for those who know), between ~8cm and ~11cm or approximately 8 to 11 studs.
  
  Those mechs I build are articulated and I want them to have as many articulations as possible (*e.g.* a leg should have a hip, a knee and an ankle, not only a hip).   
  The problem is the sturdiness of the whole construction. I have tried multiple options and the articulations are often either too weak to stay in position correctly or too fragile to support other parts, leading to structure vulnerability and eventually *destruction* of either portions of or the whole robot.
  
  My question is the following : do you know any **compact yet sturdy articulation building technique** or any small articulation part ?   
  Bonus : if you can provide a method allowing me to build more or less *on* the articulation (not sure if that's very clear).
  
  ---
  
  *EDIT* : For posing reasons, the articulation needs to have some 'friction' to keep a specific angle.
  
  ---
  
  Should there be any problem with the question (wrong formulation, bad English, need for clarification), please don't hesitate to point it out.
  
  **Tags:** building
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: This doesn't actually answer your question, hence the comment as opposed to an answer, but for larger constructions the 24-tooth clutch gear works well.  
  > **username_0**: Well, building tricks are always welcome, especially when it comes to _LEGO®_.  
  
  ---
  
  ## 3 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_2 on 2016-08-24. Score: 5
  
  The [AT-ST & Endor (9679)](http://brickset.com/sets/9679-1/AT-ST-Endor) uses cogged connectors ([4210884](http://brickset.com/parts/4210884) + [4211803](http://brickset.com/parts/4211803), I don't know if the combination of both parts has a name) for the legs. These connectors are pretty strong for their size, they may be sturdy enough for your model if it's not too heavy.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/EfKtIm.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/EfKtI.jpg)
  
  ---
  
  For bigger constructions and higher degrees of freedom, beam with balls and cups can be used, they allow rotations and movements in two axis. For example, the [*Beam A 5M Ball/Cup Ø10.2*](http://brickset.com/parts/4593555) (they are other [similar parts on Bricklink](http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&catString=749&catType=P&v=1)):
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/6zrPg.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/6zrPg.jpg)
  
  For example, [General Grievous (75112)](http://brickset.com/sets/75112-1/General-Grievous) arms and legs can be adjusted in many ways:
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/wRRsfm.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/wRRsf.jpg)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: Thanks, that is already a good start. However, I also need parts moving on multiple axis (like a human hip or shoulder for example). Any suggestion ?  
  > **username_2**: @z3r0 I added the balls and cups, I hope that it won't be too big for your models.  
  > **username_0**: Thanks for the idea, unfortunately those parts are _way_ too big for what I intend to do. Do you happen to know any alternative ? Other than that, the cogged connectors seem a rather interesting concept for mono-axis (is it even English ?) articulation.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_3 on 2016-08-24. Score: 3
  
  You could use the plate ball and cup joints like [6043656](http://brickset.com/parts/6043656) and [4329654](http://brickset.com/parts/4239654) (and a few other parts with balls that will fit)
  
  These parts:
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/2Va2p.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/2Va2p.png)
  
  One caveat though, brick #2 from the left does not have much sturdiness in holding joints together. 1, 3, and 6 are good though.
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_0**: The two small ones in the middle of the picture seem to have size characteristics close to what I'm looking for. Do you happen to know if that specific ball-cup combination has friction (allowing specific poses) ? If I remember correctly, the other ones don't. Also, do you know if the 1x1x1 ball holder also comes in different shapes (1x2x1 like its left neighbour) ?  
  > **username_3**: @z3r0 From experience, the two in the middle do have enough friction, however, there is no 1x2x1 for that piece.  
  > **username_0**: Well, I guess I'll try to find some ball-cup combination somewhere to test their _friction_. Could you please write the designation of the two parts in the middle ?  
  > **username_3**: @z3r0 14704 for the 2x2x1 socket and 3614 for the 1x1x1 with ball.  
  > **username_4**: In my experience, #5 from the left, when paired with #1 or #6, has no friction worth mentioning.  I don't know about the other pairings.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_5 on 2020-10-05. Score: 1
  
  I think the best technique for building a sturdy Lego structure is to start with a wide and big base and then stack up with smaller bricks. I took part in a Lego challenge and one of the challenges was to build a big Lego tower. So, I decided to start with a big base. Then, I built up with smaller bricks. When I did my test to see which was the best, I found out that a bigger base is better. I also am doing a science fair on which Lego structure is strongest when dropped. I haven't done it yet but I believe that a square base will be the strongest instead of the other bases I have chosen. I love building with Legos but a big pet-peeve is when they break. That is why I am doing my science fair experiment to see which structure is the best. I will let you know when I have my data.
  
  
  ---
  
  