Answers.Body: <p>The axle is misaligned by half a stud, so an obvious approach to this problem is offset your motor by half a stud.</p>
  <p>The technique of offsetting bricks by half a stud is known as AZMEP (from the german &quot;aus zwei mach eins Plättchen&quot;, meaning offset of half a stud), which is a specific case of the <a href="https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/493/what-does-snir-stand-for">SNIR (<strong>S</strong>tuds <strong>N</strong>ot <strong>I</strong>n a <strong>R</strong>ow)</a> technique.</p>
  <p>As it has been already pointed out, one way of doing AZMEP is using <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3794" rel="noreferrer">part 3794, Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud, Jumper</a> AKA &quot;jumper plate&quot;. You can just pop a few of these underneath your motor:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/EK9Ik.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/EK9Ik.png" alt="jumper plate" /></a></p>
  <p>The Unnoficial LEGO Advanced Building Techniques Guide (oldie but goodie, available in <a href="https://joncraton.org/media/files/UnofficialLEGOAdvancedBuildingTechniquesGuide.pdf" rel="noreferrer">gratis PDF</a>) lists a number of other bricks that can be used for the AZMEP technique, e.g.:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/XLxF8.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/XLxF8.png" alt="AZMEP tube-to-hollow-stud" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/oECfI.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/oECfI.png" alt="AZMEP technic bricks" /></a></p>
  <p>I'd suggest trying out a liberal application of 1x1 round plates on the underside of the motor, clip each round plate to the space between 4 studs on the baseplate:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Khzhk.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Khzhk.png" alt="1x1 round plates under motor" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/iKmLA.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/iKmLA.png" alt="1x1 round plates on baseplate" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/cah97.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cah97.png" alt="assembly with 1x1 plates, oblique" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WfAsB.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WfAsB.png" alt="assembly with 1x1 plates, top view" /></a></p>
  <hr />
  <p>As Sander has pointed out, you can also use technic bushes to offset things alongside axles by half a stud. In your particular assembly, this can be useful to effectively widen the linear actuator from 3 studs to 4 studs.</p>
  <p>I suggest the usage of <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18651" rel="noreferrer">2L axle + pin</a> plus technic bushes:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/A8Ed7.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/A8Ed7.png" alt="Assembly with 2L axle+pin" /></a></p>
  <p>If you're short on parts, you can also consider using 2L technic pins under tension:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/GhMgK.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/GhMgK.png" alt="Assembly with 2L pins, top view" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ji0aa.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ji0aa.png" alt="Assembly with 2L pins, oblique" /></a></p>
  <p>...but be aware that this assembly is way flimsier, and the pins will wobble around. You'll need to provide extra support to the technic 1x4 bricks (blue 1x8 in my diagram). In other words: add 6-stud wide bricks or plates to both the top and the bottom of those.</p>
  <p>Another option is to use <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=thin%20liftarm" rel="noreferrer">thin liftarms</a> to fill that half-a-stud gap:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ADRy7.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ADRy7.png" alt="Assembly with liftarm" /></a></p>
  <hr />
  <p>Finally, another solution is to forego the baseplate entirely and use an assembly attached to the motor's pin holes. Note how the motor pinholes are 3-stud wide, which are offset half a stud relative to the motor's 4-stud wide body.</p>
  <p>There are multiple ways of achieving this, but I'll illustrate using <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=39793" rel="noreferrer">39793 Technic, Pin Connector Block, Liftarm 1 x 3 x 3</a> and <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2905" rel="noreferrer">2905 Technic Liftarm Triangle</a>:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/um1Fm.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/um1Fm.png" alt="Assembly with liftarms" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/drCgd.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/drCgd.png" alt="Assembly with liftarms, exploded" /></a></p>
  <p>I think the most compact solution possible needs a <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=92907" rel="noreferrer">92907 Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Split</a>:</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/QcqJ4.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/QcqJ4.png" alt="Compact assembly" /></a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T16:01:14.273Z
Answers.Text: It may be worth pointing out that there is now a [modified 1×3 with 2 studs (double jumper)](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=34103#T=C), which is ideal for the footprint of that linear motor.
Answers.UserDisplayName: KRyan
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T16:15:48.517Z
Answers.Text: Isn't your example with 3L-axles with stop physically impossible to assemble?
Answers.UserDisplayName: AplusKminus
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T16:55:31.377Z
Answers.Text: Oh wait, the 3L axles with stop would need to slide through the interior of the linear actuator piece. You're right. Working in CAD sometimes does this to me.
Answers.UserDisplayName: IvanSanchez
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T18:51:26.460Z
Answers.Text: Last solution would benefit from using half pins with linear actuator rather than full sized 2L Black pins. And, to be precise, you'd want to switch 2L round connector with something like [6538b](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538b#T=C) or [6538c](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538c#T=C) to transfer power.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Alex
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T19:01:53.127Z
Answers.Text: Thanks for noticing my misuse of a 2L connector - I redid the diagram using 6538c. However, I don't seem to recall (nor I can find in the part catalogs) any half-pin part. Do you have any part number for those?
Answers.UserDisplayName: IvanSanchez
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-07T06:29:17.507Z
Answers.Text: "Half pin" is community name for [Technic, Pin 1/2](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4274#T=C), similarly to "Apollo" and "Erling" bricks. [Technic, Pin 3/4
  ](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32002#T=C) could also be used here, but I think this wouldn't be as rigid assembly as I wish it would be.
Answers.UserDisplayName: Alex
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T08:59:35.960Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-01-06T19:22:59.263Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2022-01-06T19:22:59.263Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: IvanSanchez
Answers.Body: <p>An alternative is to shift the linear actuator by half a stud using eg. a <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4265c" rel="noreferrer">Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth</a> or <a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41677" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Liftarm Thin 1 x 2 - Axle Holes</a> (or any other thin liftarm) as spacer on both sides to control the horizontal alignment, and use plates to control the vertical alignment.</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/lFOiX.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/lFOiX.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/MaXrI.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/MaXrI.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T09:09:38.580Z
Answers.Text: This is non-trivial, since the linear actuator is connected by pin holes, not axle holes.
Answers.UserDisplayName: IvanSanchez
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T09:51:47.783Z
Answers.Text: @IvanSanchez If a more secure connection is desired, the longer [thin liftarms](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=thin%20liftarm) have pin holes
Answers.UserDisplayName: Sander De Dycker
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T07:36:21.127Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-01-06T07:36:21.127Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Sander De Dycker
Answers.Body: <p>You can do this by utilising some Technic pieces - CV or U joints. Each solution requires two of each element.</p>
  <p><strong>Solution 1</strong></p>
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=62520c01#T=C" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Universal Joint 3L</a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/q8Sf1.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/q8Sf1.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p><strong>Solution 2</strong></p>
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=92906#T=C&amp;C=85" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Steering CV Joint Axle</a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Pid5p.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Pid5p.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32494#T=C" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Steering CV Joint</a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/kcgUk.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/kcgUk.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p><strong>Solution 3</strong></p>
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=52730#T=C&amp;C=85" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Steering CV Joint Axle, Wide</a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/0psAi.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/0psAi.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  <p><a href="https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=52731#T=C&amp;C=86" rel="noreferrer">Technic, Steering CV Joint, Large Ball</a></p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/nW1zM.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/nW1zM.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T06:01:18.023Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-01-06T16:27:48.690Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2022-01-06T16:27:48.690Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: Alex
Answers.Body: <p>To solve this, you need <em>jumper plates</em> to line up</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/fI90J.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/fI90J.png" alt="jumper plate - from BrickLink" /></a>
  <a href="https://i.sstatic.net/JxV6l.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/JxV6l.png" alt="jumper plate - from BrickLink" /></a></p>
  
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T16:01:33.553Z
Answers.Text: It may be worth pointing out that there is now a [modified 1×3 with 2 studs (double jumper)](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=34103#T=C), which is ideal for the footprint of that linear motor.
Answers.UserDisplayName: KRyan
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T19:30:01.393Z
Answers.Text: I didn't, but only because I didn't know it would work better; I've added it now
Answers.UserDisplayName: RSchulz
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-07T14:27:01.133Z
Answers.Text: I don't have any variation
Answers.UserDisplayName: LKBricks
Answers.ContentLicense: CC BY-SA 4.0
Answers.CreationDate: 2022-01-06T02:51:45.417Z
Answers.LastActivityDate: 2022-01-06T19:29:28.323Z
Answers.LastEditDate: 2022-01-06T19:29:28.323Z
Answers.UserDisplayName: LKBricks
Body: <p>I am very new to Lego, and I want to create a simple horizontal sliding door. I'm using a medium linear motor to drive a linear actuator which is attached to the door. The problem is the motor does not line up with the linear actuator.</p>
  <p>How can I fix this?</p>
  <p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/yfOGk.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/yfOGk.jpg" alt="Lego linear actuator" /></a></p>
  
Tags: <technic><building><motor>
Title: How can I get my motor to line up with a linear actuator?
UserDisplayName: BigJeng
ThreadText: # How can I get my motor to line up with a linear actuator?
  
  (Asked by: username_0 on 2022-01-06)
  
  I am very new to Lego, and I want to create a simple horizontal sliding door. I'm using a medium linear motor to drive a linear actuator which is attached to the door. The problem is the motor does not line up with the linear actuator.
  
  How can I fix this?
  
  [![Lego linear actuator](https://i.sstatic.net/yfOGk.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/yfOGk.jpg)
  
  **Tags:** technic, building, motor
  
  ---
  
  ## 4 answers
  
  ### Answer by username_1 on 2022-01-06. Score: 31
  
  The axle is misaligned by half a stud, so an obvious approach to this problem is offset your motor by half a stud.
  
  The technique of offsetting bricks by half a stud is known as AZMEP (from the german "aus zwei mach eins Plättchen", meaning offset of half a stud), which is a specific case of the [SNIR (**S**tuds **N**ot **I**n a **R**ow)](https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/493/what-does-snir-stand-for) technique.
  
  As it has been already pointed out, one way of doing AZMEP is using [part 3794, Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud, Jumper](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3794) AKA "jumper plate". You can just pop a few of these underneath your motor:
  
  [![jumper plate](https://i.sstatic.net/EK9Ik.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/EK9Ik.png)
  
  The Unnoficial LEGO Advanced Building Techniques Guide (oldie but goodie, available in [gratis PDF](https://joncraton.org/media/files/UnofficialLEGOAdvancedBuildingTechniquesGuide.pdf)) lists a number of other bricks that can be used for the AZMEP technique, e.g.:
  
  [![AZMEP tube-to-hollow-stud](https://i.sstatic.net/XLxF8.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/XLxF8.png)
  [![AZMEP technic bricks](https://i.sstatic.net/oECfI.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/oECfI.png)
  
  I'd suggest trying out a liberal application of 1x1 round plates on the underside of the motor, clip each round plate to the space between 4 studs on the baseplate:
  
  [![1x1 round plates under motor](https://i.sstatic.net/Khzhk.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/Khzhk.png)
  [![1x1 round plates on baseplate](https://i.sstatic.net/iKmLA.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/iKmLA.png)
  [![assembly with 1x1 plates, oblique](https://i.sstatic.net/cah97.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/cah97.png)
  [![assembly with 1x1 plates, top view](https://i.sstatic.net/WfAsB.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/WfAsB.png)
  
  ---
  
  As Sander has pointed out, you can also use technic bushes to offset things alongside axles by half a stud. In your particular assembly, this can be useful to effectively widen the linear actuator from 3 studs to 4 studs.
  
  I suggest the usage of [2L axle + pin](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18651) plus technic bushes:
  
  [![Assembly with 2L axle+pin](https://i.sstatic.net/A8Ed7.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/A8Ed7.png)
  
  If you're short on parts, you can also consider using 2L technic pins under tension:
  
  [![Assembly with 2L pins, top view](https://i.sstatic.net/GhMgK.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/GhMgK.png)
  [![Assembly with 2L pins, oblique](https://i.sstatic.net/ji0aa.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/ji0aa.png)
  
  ...but be aware that this assembly is way flimsier, and the pins will wobble around. You'll need to provide extra support to the technic 1x4 bricks (blue 1x8 in my diagram). In other words: add 6-stud wide bricks or plates to both the top and the bottom of those.
  
  Another option is to use [thin liftarms](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=thin%20liftarm) to fill that half-a-stud gap:
  
  [![Assembly with liftarm](https://i.sstatic.net/ADRy7.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/ADRy7.png)
  
  ---
  
  Finally, another solution is to forego the baseplate entirely and use an assembly attached to the motor's pin holes. Note how the motor pinholes are 3-stud wide, which are offset half a stud relative to the motor's 4-stud wide body.
  
  There are multiple ways of achieving this, but I'll illustrate using [39793 Technic, Pin Connector Block, Liftarm 1 x 3 x 3](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=39793) and [2905 Technic Liftarm Triangle](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2905):
  
  [![Assembly with liftarms](https://i.sstatic.net/um1Fm.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/um1Fm.png)
  [![Assembly with liftarms, exploded](https://i.sstatic.net/drCgd.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/drCgd.png)
  
  I think the most compact solution possible needs a [92907 Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Split](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=92907):
  
  [![Compact assembly](https://i.sstatic.net/QcqJ4.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/QcqJ4.png)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_2**: It may be worth pointing out that there is now a [modified 1×3 with 2 studs (double jumper)](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=34103#T=C), which is ideal for the footprint of that linear motor.  
  > **username_3**: Isn't your example with 3L-axles with stop physically impossible to assemble?  
  > **username_1**: Oh wait, the 3L axles with stop would need to slide through the interior of the linear actuator piece. You're right. Working in CAD sometimes does this to me.  
  > **username_4**: Last solution would benefit from using half pins with linear actuator rather than full sized 2L Black pins. And, to be precise, you'd want to switch 2L round connector with something like [6538b](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538b#T=C) or [6538c](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538c#T=C) to transfer power.  
  > **username_1**: Thanks for noticing my misuse of a 2L connector - I redid the diagram using 6538c. However, I don't seem to recall (nor I can find in the part catalogs) any half-pin part. Do you have any part number for those?  
  > **username_4**: "Half pin" is community name for [Technic, Pin 1/2](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4274#T=C), similarly to "Apollo" and "Erling" bricks. [Technic, Pin 3/4 ](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32002#T=C) could also be used here, but I think this wouldn't be as rigid assembly as I wish it would be.  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_5 on 2022-01-06. Score: 6
  
  An alternative is to shift the linear actuator by half a stud using eg. a [Technic Bush 1/2 Smooth](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4265c) or [Technic, Liftarm Thin 1 x 2 - Axle Holes](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41677) (or any other thin liftarm) as spacer on both sides to control the horizontal alignment, and use plates to control the vertical alignment.
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/lFOiX.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/lFOiX.png)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/MaXrI.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/MaXrI.png)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_1**: This is non-trivial, since the linear actuator is connected by pin holes, not axle holes.  
  > **username_5**: @IvanSanchez If a more secure connection is desired, the longer [thin liftarms](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=thin%20liftarm) have pin holes  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_4 on 2022-01-06. Score: 5
  
  You can do this by utilising some Technic pieces - CV or U joints. Each solution requires two of each element.
  
  **Solution 1**
  
  [Technic, Universal Joint 3L](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=62520c01#T=C)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/q8Sf1.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/q8Sf1.png)
  
  **Solution 2**
  
  [Technic, Steering CV Joint Axle](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=92906#T=C&C=85)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/Pid5p.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/Pid5p.png)
  
  [Technic, Steering CV Joint](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32494#T=C)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/kcgUk.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/kcgUk.png)
  
  **Solution 3**
  
  [Technic, Steering CV Joint Axle, Wide](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=52730#T=C&C=85)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/0psAi.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/0psAi.png)
  
  [Technic, Steering CV Joint, Large Ball](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=52731#T=C&C=86)
  
  [![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/nW1zM.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/nW1zM.png)
  
  
  ---
  
  ### Answer by username_6 on 2022-01-06. Score: 4
  
  To solve this, you need *jumper plates* to line up
  
  [![jumper plate - from BrickLink](https://i.sstatic.net/fI90J.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/fI90J.png)
  [![jumper plate - from BrickLink](https://i.sstatic.net/JxV6l.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/JxV6l.png)
  
  > **Comments:**
  > **username_2**: It may be worth pointing out that there is now a [modified 1×3 with 2 studs (double jumper)](https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=34103#T=C), which is ideal for the footprint of that linear motor.  
  > **username_7**: I didn't, but only because I didn't know it would work better; I've added it now  
  > **username_6**: I don't have any variation  
  
  ---
  
  