<p>I had pretty much this exact situation when printing a disk for a rocket avionics bay.  It seemed to come down to getting the basics of bed adhesion: Heat bed, ABS temp, bed composition, and a "primer" layer.  I found the FF Creator Pro to work well with a bed at 110, filament at 230, printing on a glass plate with ABS slurry.  Then adding the brim 6 orbits wide held it down very well.  I found that printing on the stock FF blue plastic was inconsistent with adhesion.  Also, keep the door closed while printing and for something this size don't run the cooling fan (if you're printing on the left nozzle).</p>

<p>And, of course, the right infill helps with the thermal contraction and strength.  I found through testing that the rectilinear patter in S3D gave the best structural support in multiple dimensions.  I also end up typically printing infill at about 15% to ensure a good surface on the upper face.  Any lower and I found a lot of sagging in the top finish.</p>

<p>If you're using this as a platform, then the layer size matters a lot also.  You don't need .10mm layers, as .25mm or .20mm layers would probably work better.  Then make sure you print enough top layers to get a good finish.  At .20mm I usually print 4 top layers with a 15% infill.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-19T23:39:14.050Z
2017-01-19T23:39:14.050Z
Randy Steck
<p>If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill.  Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill.   That ought to do the trick.  It won't be solid, but it should be strong enough.</p>

<p>What are you going to put on the platform?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T13:27:08.120Z
Worth a try.  I think that is an option in Simplyfi3d.  The wheel is to be the platform for a 3dscanner ala SuperMakeSomething's youtube video.  Don't really expect it to hold more than maybe a kilo.  Thanks.
Hertfordkc
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T14:11:28.113Z
Well then 10% is probably overkill.  I would do 5-7%.
EvilTeach
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-15T20:48:11.253Z
For a 6" disk I'd also suggest a wide brimmed raft around your part. In my experience something that wide and uniform with ABS will likely warp. The wider the brim the better chances you'll have of your part staying flat. My vote would be for 7% infill too, lower than that you _may_ have an issue with the top surface being slightly wonky.
Diesel
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T02:27:44.730Z
2017-01-14T20:25:21.573Z
2017-01-14T20:25:21.573Z
EvilTeach
<p>So you just want a short, wide cylinder? Just print that, with low density infill (20-30%) and 6-8 solid top layers, three bottom, and three perimeters, and you'll be fine. For bed adhesion with something this wide, use a 10mm brim, one layer thick. And a heated chamber will help a lot.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-21T14:41:16.947Z
Thank you for your answers.  I printed with a 20% honeycomb infill, 3 layers top, bottom, and around, 5 brim thickness, 225 extruder, 105 bed, on acetone scrubbed Kapton tape.  What was different per your suggestions was lower % honeycomb infill and more brim and 3mm thickness for the part.  Earlier attempts had been 5mm and 40% infill, 2 pass brim, and rectilinear infill.
Hertfordkc
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T19:07:58.930Z
2017-01-12T19:07:58.930Z
Davo
<p>I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform.  In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job.  I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem.  Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel.  I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution.  Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests?  (grasping at straws)
Thanks for your suggestions.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-11T22:06:49.080Z
Hi welcome to the group! Are you asking about how to RENDER a wheel or how to slice the stl?
MakerModder
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T13:32:12.697Z
My question concerns the actual 3d printing.  I've made several attempts, which have all warped.
Hertfordkc
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T14:21:30.127Z
Are there any particular reasons why you want to ue ABS over e.g. PLA?
Tormod Haugene
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-12T15:15:05.780Z
Much more experience with ABS.  Is PLA much better with regard to the thermal contraction of the printed material?
Hertfordkc
<heated-bed><abs><simplify3d><warping>
How to print a 6" wheel in ABS?
Hertfordkc
# How to print a 6" wheel in ABS?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-01-11)

I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform. In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job. I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem. Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel. I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution. Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests? (grasping at straws)
Thanks for your suggestions.

**Tags:** heated-bed, abs, simplify3d, warping
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hi welcome to the group! Are you asking about how to RENDER a wheel or how to slice the stl?  
> **username_0**: My question concerns the actual 3d printing.  I've made several attempts, which have all warped.  
> **username_2**: Are there any particular reasons why you want to ue ABS over e.g. PLA?  
> **username_0**: Much more experience with ABS.  Is PLA much better with regard to the thermal contraction of the printed material?  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-01-19. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

I had pretty much this exact situation when printing a disk for a rocket avionics bay. It seemed to come down to getting the basics of bed adhesion: Heat bed, ABS temp, bed composition, and a "primer" layer. I found the FF Creator Pro to work well with a bed at 110, filament at 230, printing on a glass plate with ABS slurry. Then adding the brim 6 orbits wide held it down very well. I found that printing on the stock FF blue plastic was inconsistent with adhesion. Also, keep the door closed while printing and for something this size don't run the cooling fan (if you're printing on the left nozzle).

And, of course, the right infill helps with the thermal contraction and strength. I found through testing that the rectilinear patter in S3D gave the best structural support in multiple dimensions. I also end up typically printing infill at about 15% to ensure a good surface on the upper face. Any lower and I found a lot of sagging in the top finish.

If you're using this as a platform, then the layer size matters a lot also. You don't need .10mm layers, as .25mm or .20mm layers would probably work better. Then make sure you print enough top layers to get a good finish. At .20mm I usually print 4 top layers with a 15% infill.


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### Answer by username_4 on 2017-01-12. Score: 3

If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill. Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill. That ought to do the trick. It won't be solid, but it should be strong enough.

What are you going to put on the platform?

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Worth a try.  I think that is an option in Simplyfi3d.  The wheel is to be the platform for a 3dscanner ala SuperMakeSomething's youtube video.  Don't really expect it to hold more than maybe a kilo.  Thanks.  
> **username_4**: Well then 10% is probably overkill.  I would do 5-7%.  
> **username_5**: For a 6" disk I'd also suggest a wide brimmed raft around your part. In my experience something that wide and uniform with ABS will likely warp. The wider the brim the better chances you'll have of your part staying flat. My vote would be for 7% infill too, lower than that you _may_ have an issue with the top surface being slightly wonky.  

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### Answer by username_6 on 2017-01-12. Score: 0

So you just want a short, wide cylinder? Just print that, with low density infill (20-30%) and 6-8 solid top layers, three bottom, and three perimeters, and you'll be fine. For bed adhesion with something this wide, use a 10mm brim, one layer thick. And a heated chamber will help a lot.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thank you for your answers.  I printed with a 20% honeycomb infill, 3 layers top, bottom, and around, 5 brim thickness, 225 extruder, 105 bed, on acetone scrubbed Kapton tape.  What was different per your suggestions was lower % honeycomb infill and more brim and 3mm thickness for the part.  Earlier attempts had been 5mm and 40% infill, 2 pass brim, and rectilinear infill.  

---

