<p>A guy at work had this - he got many cheap rolls of PLA.  They had been stored hot and were subtly deformed, each flake slightly sticking to the adjacent ones.</p>
<p>His fix was first to unspool &quot;enough&quot; filament for the job, but that was not reliable for longer prints.</p>
<p>The proper fix was to wind the entire roll onto a spare roll and then fit that to the printer.  (And to stop buying suspiciously cheap filament)   He make a mandrel for the center of the &quot;reel&quot; and simply wound the filament on with a battery-powered hand drill.  The old roll was on the machine until it was emptied, then swapped over.</p>
<hr />
<p>As for your 94% job, it is possible to slice the top 6% of your part, and reprint that.  Some careful filing and superglue can give you a useable part, although the seam is never going to be invisible.  That may not matter depending on your use case.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-01T05:26:24.097Z
2021-12-01T05:26:24.097Z
Criggie
<p>I am having the frustrating problem where my extruder motor starts skipping steps and stops extruding simply because my filament is wound too tightly. There are some parts of my filament that are so tightly wound that even I have to put some effort to pull it apart. I buy the Inland PLA+ filaments and consistently have this problem with all colors and types. I just threw away a 5-hour large print when it was at 94 %! I am thinking of using a large 20 kg/cm servo to pull our filament before going into the printer to make sure this doesn't happen. I want to know if that is a plausible solution or if I should start buying filament from a different company.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-28T23:17:25.220Z
When you change a spool on a printer how well do you control the end of plastic, are you securing it to the side of the spool or just fishing it out of the loose loops of plastic around the spool? This sounds a lot like a user caused issue where the end of the line gets tucked other loose loops on the spool.
Kezat
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-11-29T01:13:33.880Z
Or perhaps you need to rewind your spool onto an empty one so it is evenly loose all the way through.
user10489
<extrusion><motor><filament-choice><filament-jam>
Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print
DragonflyRobotics
# Filament Spool Stalls Extruder Motor Destroying Print

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-11-28)

I am having the frustrating problem where my extruder motor starts skipping steps and stops extruding simply because my filament is wound too tightly. There are some parts of my filament that are so tightly wound that even I have to put some effort to pull it apart. I buy the Inland PLA+ filaments and consistently have this problem with all colors and types. I just threw away a 5-hour large print when it was at 94 %! I am thinking of using a large 20 kg/cm servo to pull our filament before going into the printer to make sure this doesn't happen. I want to know if that is a plausible solution or if I should start buying filament from a different company.

**Tags:** extrusion, motor, filament-choice, filament-jam
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: When you change a spool on a printer how well do you control the end of plastic, are you securing it to the side of the spool or just fishing it out of the loose loops of plastic around the spool? This sounds a lot like a user caused issue where the end of the line gets tucked other loose loops on the spool.  
> **username_2**: Or perhaps you need to rewind your spool onto an empty one so it is evenly loose all the way through.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-12-01. Score: 1

A guy at work had this - he got many cheap rolls of PLA. They had been stored hot and were subtly deformed, each flake slightly sticking to the adjacent ones.

His fix was first to unspool "enough" filament for the job, but that was not reliable for longer prints.

The proper fix was to wind the entire roll onto a spare roll and then fit that to the printer. (And to stop buying suspiciously cheap filament) He make a mandrel for the center of the "reel" and simply wound the filament on with a battery-powered hand drill. The old roll was on the machine until it was emptied, then swapped over.

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As for your 94% job, it is possible to slice the top 6% of your part, and reprint that. Some careful filing and superglue can give you a useable part, although the seam is never going to be invisible. That may not matter depending on your use case.


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