<p>My very first thought was you didn't re-calibrate your Z0 after adding the blue tape. It sounds like the print head was too close to the print bed to begin with, and adding the blue tape just made it that much worse. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-17T13:15:41.837Z
2016-02-17T13:15:41.837Z
Tony Hansen
<p>One thing that I do to  keep it from sticking to the tape. Is to add glue from a glue stick down on the building pad in an even coat on top of the tape.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-22T22:29:01.050Z
2016-02-22T22:29:01.050Z
DJ bigdawg
<p>This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this "Z0" point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well.</p>

<p>This is just one suggestion of many solutions. Here are some other variables I could think of off-hand:</p>

<ul>
<li>Type of build plate tape (ie masking, painters, kapton, etc.)</li>
<li>Type of material. I've noticed that PLA is very stubborn if you let the part completely cool after printing and that it's much easier to remove the part from the build plate/raft right after it's complete.</li>
<li>Type of build plate. Are you applying too much heat (if you have a heated bp) for the material such as PLA?</li>
<li>Try lowering your layer height. This will ensure that each strand does not have too much surface area and therefore less chance that it will create a vacuum affect with the build plate. This can, however, result in a worse surface finish.</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-04-20T12:39:19.150Z
Note that if you do attempt to remove a "warm" print, I would make sure you use a tool (i.e. a spatula or similar) as opposed to your hand
user2813274
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-01-12T21:46:37.550Z
2016-01-12T21:46:37.550Z
tbm0115
<p>I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.</p>

<p>This yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.</p>

<p>Is there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?</p>

<abs><filament><maintenance>
How can I stop my print bed tape from sticking to the filament?
HDE 226868
# How can I stop my print bed tape from sticking to the filament?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-01-12)

I made a test print for a small gear (~ 1.5 inches in diameter) a few months ago, with a hole through the center. On the first try, the filament (ABS) fused to the print bed, meaning that I had to spend ten minutes scraping off material to loosen it. One solution to this is to use painter's tape spread across the print bed.

This yielded a good print during the next run. The problem with this method was that some of the tape subsequently fused to the backside of the gear; it was so tight that I had to discard the prototype. Multiple varieties of tape made no difference.

Is there a way to continue using this tape without having it fuse to the filament?

**Tags:** abs, filament, maintenance

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## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2016-01-12. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

This can highly depend on the slicer you are using. Some software such as Makerware and Slic3r allow you to adjust the settings for the first raft/part layers. I might suggest adjusting this "Z0" point to about 1/4-1/2 of your layer height. Essentially the first layer (or two) will not adhere as well.

This is just one suggestion of many solutions. Here are some other variables I could think of off-hand:

* Type of build plate tape (ie masking, painters, kapton, etc.)
* Type of material. I've noticed that PLA is very stubborn if you let the part completely cool after printing and that it's much easier to remove the part from the build plate/raft right after it's complete.
* Type of build plate. Are you applying too much heat (if you have a heated bp) for the material such as PLA?
* Try lowering your layer height. This will ensure that each strand does not have too much surface area and therefore less chance that it will create a vacuum affect with the build plate. This can, however, result in a worse surface finish.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: Note that if you do attempt to remove a "warm" print, I would make sure you use a tool (i.e. a spatula or similar) as opposed to your hand  

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### Answer by username_1 on 2016-02-17. Score: 1

My very first thought was you didn't re-calibrate your Z0 after adding the blue tape. It sounds like the print head was too close to the print bed to begin with, and adding the blue tape just made it that much worse.


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### Answer by username_2 on 2016-02-22. Score: 1

One thing that I do to keep it from sticking to the tape. Is to add glue from a glue stick down on the building pad in an even coat on top of the tape.


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