<p>The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:</p>

<blockquote>
  <p>Also, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6092/">a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend</a> might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44</p>
  
  <p>The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52</p>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-02T12:34:09.313Z
2019-07-02T13:01:29.953Z
2019-07-02T13:01:29.953Z
Trish
<p>That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.</p>

<p>You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing <em>more material</em>, which typically means one or all of the following:</p>

<ol>
<li>Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)</li>
<li>Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter "normal" thickness.</li>
<li>Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well. </li>
</ol>

<p>If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically "push" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam. </p>

<p>As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-01T13:58:25.180Z
2019-07-01T13:58:25.180Z
Nach0z
<p>I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75&nbsp;mm). </p>

<p>Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly. </p>

<p>Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/TJPFb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Part of brim that stopped printing"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/TJPFb.jpg" alt="Part of brim that stopped printing" title="Part of brim that stopped printing"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-25T13:52:11.470Z
Have you reduced your temps (extruder and bed) for the PLA? ABS prints at a much higher temp than does PLA.
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-25T15:13:55.870Z
My colleague has the da Vinci 2.0 duo, he also cannot print PLA (results in clogged nozzle), this looks like a design feature. I guess this is related to the hotend (probably all-metal) which are prone to heat creep problems. You must ensure that the temperature of the hotend is as low as possible and that the cooling of the hotend is optimal, maybe open the enclosing while printing? You need to add some details on how you print PLA, e.g. hotend temperature, bed temperature, cooling, etc. else it is very difficult to be answered.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-25T16:51:55.793Z
Please let us know if the teeth of the drive mechanism of this head are getting clogged with softened filament (heat creep).
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-26T08:44:45.520Z
Also, a [thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend](/a/6092/) might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-28T09:57:42.210Z
@TheThriftyEngineer - Be that as it may ... *what are they*?
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-01T16:21:22.387Z
@3ORZ: You should add that as a self-answer to close the question.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T06:52:14.347Z
The problem solved !, my abs is stuck in nozzle !!!
3ORZ
<filament><pla>
da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament
3ORZ
# da Vinci 1.0 cannot print PLA filament

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-03-25)

I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm).

Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly.

Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?

[![Part of brim that stopped printing](https://i.sstatic.net/TJPFb.jpg "Part of brim that stopped printing")](https://i.sstatic.net/TJPFb.jpg "Part of brim that stopped printing")

**Tags:** filament, pla
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Have you reduced your temps (extruder and bed) for the PLA? ABS prints at a much higher temp than does PLA.  
> **username_2**: My colleague has the da Vinci 2.0 duo, he also cannot print PLA (results in clogged nozzle), this looks like a design feature. I guess this is related to the hotend (probably all-metal) which are prone to heat creep problems. You must ensure that the temperature of the hotend is as low as possible and that the cooling of the hotend is optimal, maybe open the enclosing while printing? You need to add some details on how you print PLA, e.g. hotend temperature, bed temperature, cooling, etc. else it is very difficult to be answered.  
> **username_3**: Please let us know if the teeth of the drive mechanism of this head are getting clogged with softened filament (heat creep).  
> **username_2**: Also, a [thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend](/a/6092/) might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside.  
> **username_1**: @TheThriftyEngineer - Be that as it may ... *what are they*?  
> **username_0**: The problem solved !, my abs is stuck in nozzle !!!  
> **username_4**: @3ORZ: You should add that as a self-answer to close the question.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-07-02. Score: 5

The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:

> Also, [a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6092/) might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44
>
> The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-07-01. Score: 1

That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.

You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing *more material*, which typically means one or all of the following:

1. Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)
2. Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter "normal" thickness.
3. Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well.

If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically "push" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam.

As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.


---

