<p>If one edge is peeling up, the first layer isn't sticking.  You may need to go through a first-layer troubleshooting process.</p>

<ol>
<li>Is the bed flat and parallel to the Z-plane traced by the printhead?</li>
<li>Are you taking appropriate steps to attach the ABS to the bed?</li>
<li>Is the bed hot enough to reduce shrinkage of the printed ABS object?</li>
</ol>

<p>For sticking ABS to the bed, I've had good luck with two approaches:  a PEI-coated bed surface, or ABS slurry on a non-PEI surface.</p>

<p>For bed temperature, I usually run a little hotter: 100 °C.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-22T23:22:55.227Z
A little hotter than... "usual" or "other machines"? up to 10 °C difference between two machines are easily accumulated from differences in the temperature sensor placement and calibration as well as the presence of an enclosure or not.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-22T15:46:23.980Z
2019-03-22T15:46:23.980Z
cmm
<p>The most commonly used print temperature range for ABS is 220 to 240 °C with the major bulk around 230 °C. Some filaments are blended with inhibitors or PC, increasing their print temperature to up to 260 °C. Note that the color of the filament just as the brand can have an impact on the print temperature!</p>

<p>The most commonly used bed temperature for ABS start at least at 80 °C. <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-tips-&amp;-tricks:-abs-bed-adhesion" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MatterHackers</a> suggest 85-90 °C.</p>

<p>If your bed is particularly bad at getting adhesion, you might want to clean the bed of residues and fingerprints and relevel the bed. If that is not enough and you use a glass bed, a slurry of ABS in Acetone could come in handy. If you have a glass bed, the slurry is pretty much the best option.</p>

<p>Print cooling is a bane on ABS - the stuff shrinks too fast if cooled, resulting in the parts breaking loose!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-16T15:28:10.227Z
Thanks so much. I am trying your suggestions now. Fingers crossed.
BlackManta2020
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-16T16:17:29.397Z
@BlackManta2020 I corrected myself a little - and also linked to matterHAckers, who know their stuff really well.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-16T02:45:11.163Z
2019-03-16T16:17:01.740Z
2019-03-16T16:17:01.740Z
Trish
<p>Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3&nbsp;cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.</p>

<p>I am also printing the pieces at 235&nbsp;&deg;C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.</p>

<p>The adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-30T06:43:56.217Z
I bet you meant 235 ºC instead of 135 ºC! :) Thanks for your shared experience to print ABS on the Adventurer and your solution to keep the door closed while the filament is outside the printer chamber.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-30T06:25:32.980Z
2019-09-30T06:43:57.363Z
2019-09-30T06:43:57.363Z
swimsorca
<p>This I hope will help: </p>

<ol>
<li><p>You must see which is the type of ABS you use, in terms of temperature. If you have an ABS material which melts at 220 - 250&nbsp;°C it is difficult cu work with it using an Adventurer 3. For example I use Verbatim (220 - 240 deg Celsius) and that works well.</p></li>
<li><p>Bed temperature must be set between 90 - 100 degree Celsius.</p></li>
<li><p>For beginning, it is good to work with Raft activated.</p></li>
<li><p>Do not use "Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic", because the fan will work all the time. This is not good, it will peal your raft all the time because of the temperature difference between bed and fan blow. It is good to set the cooling fan "ON(when to pre-set height)" usually I use 1 mm to 1.5 mm max. This will start the cooling fan at the height you indicate.</p></li>
<li><p>Always use the cooling fan as mentioned before because your print will be much better with it, you'll see.</p></li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-11-24T19:03:25.933Z
I often read that you should not use the cooling fan at all with ABS
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-11-24T16:58:09.213Z
2019-11-24T17:50:57.497Z
2019-11-24T17:50:57.497Z
George S.
<p><em>Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.</em></p>

<p>Temperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100&nbsp;&deg;C. There is no "glass bed".  My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98&nbsp;&deg;C.  (The room temperature is 16&nbsp;&deg;C at the moment).  I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off.  The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay.  I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse.  I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-17T11:45:06.877Z
2019-09-17T11:57:21.987Z
2019-09-17T11:57:21.987Z
Benjamin Barrows
<p>I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?</p>

<p>I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:</p>

<ul>
<li>Supports: Disable,</li>
<li>Raft: enable,</li>
<li>Resolution: Standard,</li>
<li>Layer Heights: 0.18&nbsp;mm,</li>
<li>First Layer Height: 0.27&nbsp;mm,</li>
<li>Perimeter Shells: 2,</li>
<li>Top Solid Layers: 4,</li>
<li>Bottom Solid Layers: 3,</li>
<li>Fill Density: 15&nbsp;%, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,</li>
<li>Print Speed: 60&nbsp;mm/s,</li>
<li>Travel Speed: 80&nbsp;mm/s,</li>
<li>Extruder: 225&nbsp;&deg;C,</li>
<li>Platform: 70&nbsp;&deg;C,</li>
<li>Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,</li>
<li>Nozzle Dia.: 0.4&nbsp;mm</li>
</ul>

<abs><flashforge-adventurer-3>
Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3
BlackManta2020
# Printing temperatures for ABS on a Flashforge Adventurer 3

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-03-15)

I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?

I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:

* Supports: Disable,
* Raft: enable,
* Resolution: Standard,
* Layer Heights: 0.18 mm,
* First Layer Height: 0.27 mm,
* Perimeter Shells: 2,
* Top Solid Layers: 4,
* Bottom Solid Layers: 3,
* Fill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s,
* Travel Speed: 80 mm/s,
* Extruder: 225 °C,
* Platform: 70 °C,
* Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,
* Nozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm

**Tags:** abs, flashforge-adventurer-3

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2019-03-22. Score: 3

If one edge is peeling up, the first layer isn't sticking. You may need to go through a first-layer troubleshooting process.

1. Is the bed flat and parallel to the Z-plane traced by the printhead?
2. Are you taking appropriate steps to attach the ABS to the bed?
3. Is the bed hot enough to reduce shrinkage of the printed ABS object?

For sticking ABS to the bed, I've had good luck with two approaches: a PEI-coated bed surface, or ABS slurry on a non-PEI surface.

For bed temperature, I usually run a little hotter: 100 °C.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: A little hotter than... "usual" or "other machines"? up to 10 °C difference between two machines are easily accumulated from differences in the temperature sensor placement and calibration as well as the presence of an enclosure or not.  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2019-03-16. Score: 3

The most commonly used print temperature range for ABS is 220 to 240 °C with the major bulk around 230 °C. Some filaments are blended with inhibitors or PC, increasing their print temperature to up to 260 °C. Note that the color of the filament just as the brand can have an impact on the print temperature!

The most commonly used bed temperature for ABS start at least at 80 °C. [MatterHackers](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-tips-&-tricks:-abs-bed-adhesion) suggest 85-90 °C.

If your bed is particularly bad at getting adhesion, you might want to clean the bed of residues and fingerprints and relevel the bed. If that is not enough and you use a glass bed, a slurry of ABS in Acetone could come in handy. If you have a glass bed, the slurry is pretty much the best option.

Print cooling is a bane on ABS - the stuff shrinks too fast if cooled, resulting in the parts breaking loose!

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thanks so much. I am trying your suggestions now. Fingers crossed.  
> **username_2**: @BlackManta2020 I corrected myself a little - and also linked to matterHAckers, who know their stuff really well.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2019-09-30. Score: 1

Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3 cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.

I am also printing the pieces at 235 °C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.

The adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: I bet you meant 235 ºC instead of 135 ºC! :) Thanks for your shared experience to print ABS on the Adventurer and your solution to keep the door closed while the filament is outside the printer chamber.  

---

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-11-24. Score: 1

This I hope will help:

1. You must see which is the type of ABS you use, in terms of temperature. If you have an ABS material which melts at 220 - 250 °C it is difficult cu work with it using an Adventurer 3. For example I use Verbatim (220 - 240 deg Celsius) and that works well.
2. Bed temperature must be set between 90 - 100 degree Celsius.
3. For beginning, it is good to work with Raft activated.
4. Do not use "Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic", because the fan will work all the time. This is not good, it will peal your raft all the time because of the temperature difference between bed and fan blow. It is good to set the cooling fan "ON(when to pre-set height)" usually I use 1 mm to 1.5 mm max. This will start the cooling fan at the height you indicate.
5. Always use the cooling fan as mentioned before because your print will be much better with it, you'll see.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: I often read that you should not use the cooling fan at all with ABS  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-09-17. Score: 1

*Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.*

Temperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100 °C. There is no "glass bed". My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98 °C. (The room temperature is 16 °C at the moment). I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off. The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay. I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse. I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high.


---

