<p>Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center).</p>
<p>And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width.</p>
<p>Also, there are reports of underestimated printing temperature. If you can, go try 280-290 °C.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-07-23T16:18:20.153Z
The temperature may already be a bit high. I kept the filament in a drybox but if it's extruded too slowly it will bubble and pop. This tells me the polymer is being destroyed when exposed to 270 °C for too long. If I go any slower or hotter this may become an issue. I'm not sure my printer would survive 90 °C. I may try using a draft shield in addition to the enclosure which might help keep the temperature around the part hot enough.
TreeBarkEater
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-07-23T20:44:13.090Z
If it bubbles and pops it's not excessive temperature, it's humidity! ABS has typically no problems, but PC has A LOT. Put that spool in the oven at 70 °C for about three hours, then keep it in a dry box. Be sure that the silica is not depleted already! dry the silica by putting it in the oven for 3 hours at 120 °C. And keep a reliable humidity sensor in the dry box to know when it's time to dry the silica again. I use a Xiaomi temperature/humidity sensor which works extremely well. After drying I reach 1%, after three months it's back to 10% and I dry it again.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-07-23T20:46:58.663Z
But true, the Ender 3 cannot get higher than 270 °C.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-07-24T00:34:36.587Z
It doesn't bubble and pop when extruded at a normal rate, only when extruded very slowly or when oozing. It comes out very rough and brittle and almost looks carbonized. The smell is also terrible.
TreeBarkEater
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-07-19T07:33:15.733Z
2021-07-19T08:43:24.750Z
2021-07-19T08:43:24.750Z
FarO
<p>I recently started printing Polymaker's PC-ABS blend on my modified Ender 3 v2. The print quality is good but the layer adhesion is pretty bad.</p>
<p>The layers aren't delaminating while printing but I can snap the chimney off of Benchys just with my fingers. Print quality and layer adhesion are the same on Benchys with and without an enclosure.</p>
<p>My enclosure gets to around 65 °C air temperature, but Polymaker recommends 90 °C. I doubt my Ender would function at those temperatures.</p>
<p>Cura settings are as follows:</p>
<ul>
<li>270 °C 0.4 mm brass nozzle</li>
<li>105 °C bed</li>
<li>0.2 mm layer height</li>
<li>0.4 mm line width</li>
<li>combing off</li>
<li>cooling off</li>
<li>15s minimum layer time</li>
<li>Lift Head on</li>
<li>4 mm retraction at 33 mm/s</li>
<li>30-22.5 mm/s print speed</li>
<li>3 walls</li>
<li>5 top and bottom layers</li>
<li>20 % lines infill</li>
</ul>
<p>I have already tried a wider line width, and I don't think going any hotter or slower would help. What could I try in order to improve the layer adhesion?</p>

<creality-ender-3><adhesion><print-material><abs><print-strength>
PC-ABS poor layer adhesion
TreeBarkEater
# PC-ABS poor layer adhesion

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-07-17)

I recently started printing Polymaker's PC-ABS blend on my modified Ender 3 v2. The print quality is good but the layer adhesion is pretty bad.

The layers aren't delaminating while printing but I can snap the chimney off of Benchys just with my fingers. Print quality and layer adhesion are the same on Benchys with and without an enclosure.

My enclosure gets to around 65 °C air temperature, but Polymaker recommends 90 °C. I doubt my Ender would function at those temperatures.

Cura settings are as follows:

* 270 °C 0.4 mm brass nozzle
* 105 °C bed
* 0.2 mm layer height
* 0.4 mm line width
* combing off
* cooling off
* 15s minimum layer time
* Lift Head on
* 4 mm retraction at 33 mm/s
* 30-22.5 mm/s print speed
* 3 walls
* 5 top and bottom layers
* 20 % lines infill

I have already tried a wider line width, and I don't think going any hotter or slower would help. What could I try in order to improve the layer adhesion?

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, adhesion, print-material, abs, print-strength

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2021-07-19. Score: 1

Try using some halogen bulbs (for example car healights) with a heat resistant shiny reflector to increase the temperature of the printed part without having to increase the air temperature. You can easily reach 90 °C with 4 bulbs (one per corner, pointed to the center).

And until you find a good print settings, I would still stick with 110-120% line width.

Also, there are reports of underestimated printing temperature. If you can, go try 280-290 °C.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The temperature may already be a bit high. I kept the filament in a drybox but if it's extruded too slowly it will bubble and pop. This tells me the polymer is being destroyed when exposed to 270 °C for too long. If I go any slower or hotter this may become an issue. I'm not sure my printer would survive 90 °C. I may try using a draft shield in addition to the enclosure which might help keep the temperature around the part hot enough.  
> **username_1**: If it bubbles and pops it's not excessive temperature, it's humidity! ABS has typically no problems, but PC has A LOT. Put that spool in the oven at 70 °C for about three hours, then keep it in a dry box. Be sure that the silica is not depleted already! dry the silica by putting it in the oven for 3 hours at 120 °C. And keep a reliable humidity sensor in the dry box to know when it's time to dry the silica again. I use a Xiaomi temperature/humidity sensor which works extremely well. After drying I reach 1%, after three months it's back to 10% and I dry it again.  
> **username_1**: But true, the Ender 3 cannot get higher than 270 °C.  
> **username_0**: It doesn't bubble and pop when extruded at a normal rate, only when extruded very slowly or when oozing. It comes out very rough and brittle and almost looks carbonized. The smell is also terrible.  

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