<p>225°C is <strong>way too cool</strong> to print PETG, especially at 60 mm/s if your printer's extruder is similar to the Ender 3's stock extruder (going off what you said; I'm not familiar with your specific printer). It will be having serious trouble extruding, slipping in the filament gear, at which point you'll have too little material, so what does get extruded gets stretched out too thin and is under a lot of tension, and since it's not hot enough to bond well with the previous layer and also not thick enough to press well against the previous layer, it gets pulled across a diagonal rather than following the toolhead path.</p>
<p>Drop your speed for PETG to 30 mm/s or lower and increase the temperature to 235°C at a bare minimum. I would really call 245°C the minimum for PETG, but that's borderline too hot for the stock PTFE-lined heatbreak and will degrate the PTFE (and arguably offgas harmful fumes, although probably at levels way too low to actually be harmful) over time.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T07:12:12.617Z
I was just using the default settings in Cura. I'll try 235 and 30mm
Biclops
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T23:46:51.607Z
I did a temp tower and 235 was the best range. It was shiny and it didn't snap off easily. Did a benchy at 235 and 30mm and it was perfect. Thank you.
Biclops
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-26T05:41:45.323Z
If you're not too busy I have another PETG question I'd like your input on. https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19828/petg-benchy-boogers-and-stringing. Thanks.
Biclops
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-13T05:37:31.983Z
2022-08-13T05:37:31.983Z
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
<p>Both items were printed at the same time. The item on the right was perfect while the one on the left has crazy thick strings. Sorry I didn't keep the build plate's orientation, you can see how they were positioned in the Cura screen cap.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BuShS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BuShS.jpg" alt="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't" title="Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/G7X3A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/G7X3A.png" alt="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels" title="Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels" /></a></p>
<p>I thought the stringing was from nozzle travel but if that were true the strings would be coming from the center pillar which they are not. Some of the strings shoot out from the left which doesn't make any sense.</p>
<p>I checked the bottom and it seems like the first layer is perfect or pretty damned close to it.</p>
<p><strong>Sovol Sv01 pro</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>This is similar to an Ender 3 S1</li>
<li>direct drive</li>
<li>Creality silent board</li>
<li>CR touch</li>
<li>Marlin 2.0</li>
<li>hot end I'm not sure what's in there but it has a V6 nozzle rather than an MK8</li>
<li>PEI sheet</li>
<li>K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting</li>
<li>All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Settings</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Inland PETG - Yellow</li>
<li>a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer</li>
<li>225 °C nozzle</li>
<li>70 °C bed</li>
<li>retraction 3.0 mm</li>
<li>print speed 60 mm/s</li>
<li>print acceleration 500 mm/s</li>
<li>jerk 12 mm/s</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-13T08:07:20.080Z
The max print speed of the premium quality 2.85 mm PETG I use, is 50 mm/s at higher temperatures you use (240 - 245 °C). I do have a no-name 1.75 mm PETG brand that prints at 230 °C, but that is with an expensive hotend capable of melting the PETG quick enough. You should increase temperature and lower print speed.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-19T14:34:48.780Z
Are you using combing with max comb distance with no retract? Is it possible to share the G-code to check?
eskeyaar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T13:02:17.070Z
That's not stringing, that is a perimeter line that is missing from the item that was not deposited properly and "dragged" behind the nozzle. Misleveled most likely.
Trish
<creality-ender-3><petg><stringing>
Thick stringing next to a perfectly printed model
Biclops
# Thick stringing next to a perfectly printed model

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-08-11)

Both items were printed at the same time. The item on the right was perfect while the one on the left has crazy thick strings. Sorry I didn't keep the build plate's orientation, you can see how they were positioned in the Cura screen cap.

[![Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't](https://i.sstatic.net/BuShS.jpg "Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't")](https://i.sstatic.net/BuShS.jpg "Photo of two printed models, the left model has stringing while the right one doesn't")

[![Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels](https://i.sstatic.net/G7X3A.png "Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels")](https://i.sstatic.net/G7X3A.png "Screenshot of the print preview in Cura showing nozzle travels")

I thought the stringing was from nozzle travel but if that were true the strings would be coming from the center pillar which they are not. Some of the strings shoot out from the left which doesn't make any sense.

I checked the bottom and it seems like the first layer is perfect or pretty damned close to it.

**Sovol Sv01 pro**

* This is similar to an Ender 3 S1
* direct drive
* Creality silent board
* CR touch
* Marlin 2.0
* hot end I'm not sure what's in there but it has a V6 nozzle rather than an MK8
* PEI sheet
* K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting
* All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.

**Settings**

* Inland PETG - Yellow
* a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer
* 225 °C nozzle
* 70 °C bed
* retraction 3.0 mm
* print speed 60 mm/s
* print acceleration 500 mm/s
* jerk 12 mm/s

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, petg, stringing
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: The max print speed of the premium quality 2.85 mm PETG I use, is 50 mm/s at higher temperatures you use (240 - 245 °C). I do have a no-name 1.75 mm PETG brand that prints at 230 °C, but that is with an expensive hotend capable of melting the PETG quick enough. You should increase temperature and lower print speed.  
> **username_2**: Are you using combing with max comb distance with no retract? Is it possible to share the G-code to check?  
> **username_3**: That's not stringing, that is a perimeter line that is missing from the item that was not deposited properly and "dragged" behind the nozzle. Misleveled most likely.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2022-08-13. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

225°C is **way too cool** to print PETG, especially at 60 mm/s if your printer's extruder is similar to the Ender 3's stock extruder (going off what you said; I'm not familiar with your specific printer). It will be having serious trouble extruding, slipping in the filament gear, at which point you'll have too little material, so what does get extruded gets stretched out too thin and is under a lot of tension, and since it's not hot enough to bond well with the previous layer and also not thick enough to press well against the previous layer, it gets pulled across a diagonal rather than following the toolhead path.

Drop your speed for PETG to 30 mm/s or lower and increase the temperature to 235°C at a bare minimum. I would really call 245°C the minimum for PETG, but that's borderline too hot for the stock PTFE-lined heatbreak and will degrate the PTFE (and arguably offgas harmful fumes, although probably at levels way too low to actually be harmful) over time.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I was just using the default settings in Cura. I'll try 235 and 30mm  
> **username_0**: I did a temp tower and 235 was the best range. It was shiny and it didn't snap off easily. Did a benchy at 235 and 30mm and it was perfect. Thank you.  
> **username_0**: If you're not too busy I have another PETG question I'd like your input on. https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19828/petg-benchy-boogers-and-stringing. Thanks.  

---

