<h2>Are the wheels of the carriage worn?</h2>
<p>The nozzle is mounted to the heater block and forms (with the cooling body) the hotend. That hotend is mounted to a steel plate, that is refered to as the carriage. This carriage has a few excentric nuts, to which a few V-grove wheels are mounted. These wear out over time, which results in the carriage becoming &quot;sloppy&quot; and wobbling, resulting in the nozzle being able to be lifted. In perfect condition, the wheels should have 3 flat sides, but a well worn wheel will have deep <em>cuts</em> around the wheel, where the running surface is worn away by the metal. The specs of a proper <a href="https://openbuildspartstore.com/solid-v-wheel-kit/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">&quot;openbuilds solid V[-Slot] wheel&quot;</a> and a generic <em>clone</em> of such a wheel are so close to one another, that either work. The Ender-3 has, of its own, a clone type installed, as you might spy by the type and style of ball bearing used.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/0FKKnICY.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/0FKKnICY.png" alt="official Openbuilds Specs" /></a><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mdJuOGND.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mdJuOGND.png" alt="Specs of cloned wheels*" /></a></p>
<p>Openbuild's original wheels come about 5 USD a piece while cloned replacement wheels come at 1 € or less a piece in a package of several. In either case, they are very easy to replace. It's best to turn the excentric nuts as loose as possible before swapping over to a new set to make installation as easy as possible and prevent damage to the new wheels.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-01T11:35:04.327Z
Thank you for the explanation and the answer. I'll check today if that might be the problem. Either way, it's good to know this occurrence.
Theresa
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-08-31T01:10:32.943Z
2024-08-31T01:10:32.943Z
Trish
<p>The wheels might be worn or they could also be just loose. There should be a 10 mm nut in between the wheel and what it is mounted to. I used the following video to find out how to fix this issue:</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GsEdU8ZtI6U?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-23T12:56:44.713Z
Thank you for your answer, and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please note that linking to a video with the solution is not really acceptable, links may suffer from link rot and become useless. Instead, summarize the steps from the video in your answer and you might receive votes to increase your reputation. The higher the reputation, the more functionality is unlocked!
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-18T04:26:35.920Z
2024-09-18T14:07:44.187Z
2024-09-18T14:07:44.187Z
Parallel
<p>I'm new to the 3D printing world and bought a used Creality Ender 3 Pro, here is my problem:</p>
<p>I have difficulty leveling my bed, I think it is caused by the nozzle holder (I don't know the proper name) since it seems to have a lot of space moving up and down, loosening and tightening the screws only helps a tiny little bit, but not enough.</p>
<p>If I try to level, the nozzle is way way to much up but I can't lift the bed up enough.
I'd appreciate some help!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-08-30T22:31:50.037Z
Hi and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! The thing the nozzle is keeping in place is the heater block which is part of the hotend. The whole assembly is referred to as the carriage. Adding photos or a link to a video might help understand your specific problem. I think you need to lower the Z endstop.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-09-01T11:33:59.580Z
Thank you. I'll add photos or videos today!
Theresa
<creality-ender-3><bed-leveling><nozzle>
Can't level my 3D printer/nozzle holder. Keeps on moving up and down in the rails
Theresa
# Can't level my 3D printer/nozzle holder. Keeps on moving up and down in the rails

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-08-30)

I'm new to the 3D printing world and bought a used Creality Ender 3 Pro, here is my problem:

I have difficulty leveling my bed, I think it is caused by the nozzle holder (I don't know the proper name) since it seems to have a lot of space moving up and down, loosening and tightening the screws only helps a tiny little bit, but not enough.

If I try to level, the nozzle is way way to much up but I can't lift the bed up enough.
I'd appreciate some help!

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, bed-leveling, nozzle
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Hi and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! The thing the nozzle is keeping in place is the heater block which is part of the hotend. The whole assembly is referred to as the carriage. Adding photos or a link to a video might help understand your specific problem. I think you need to lower the Z endstop.  
> **username_0**: Thank you. I'll add photos or videos today!  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2024-08-31. Score: 1

## Are the wheels of the carriage worn?

The nozzle is mounted to the heater block and forms (with the cooling body) the hotend. That hotend is mounted to a steel plate, that is refered to as the carriage. This carriage has a few excentric nuts, to which a few V-grove wheels are mounted. These wear out over time, which results in the carriage becoming "sloppy" and wobbling, resulting in the nozzle being able to be lifted. In perfect condition, the wheels should have 3 flat sides, but a well worn wheel will have deep *cuts* around the wheel, where the running surface is worn away by the metal. The specs of a proper ["openbuilds solid V[-Slot] wheel"](https://openbuildspartstore.com/solid-v-wheel-kit/) and a generic *clone* of such a wheel are so close to one another, that either work. The Ender-3 has, of its own, a clone type installed, as you might spy by the type and style of ball bearing used.

[![official Openbuilds Specs](https://i.sstatic.net/0FKKnICY.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/0FKKnICY.png)[![Specs of cloned wheels*](https://i.sstatic.net/mdJuOGND.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/mdJuOGND.png)

Openbuild's original wheels come about 5 USD a piece while cloned replacement wheels come at 1 € or less a piece in a package of several. In either case, they are very easy to replace. It's best to turn the excentric nuts as loose as possible before swapping over to a new set to make installation as easy as possible and prevent damage to the new wheels.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thank you for the explanation and the answer. I'll check today if that might be the problem. Either way, it's good to know this occurrence.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2024-09-18. Score: 1

The wheels might be worn or they could also be just loose. There should be a 10 mm nut in between the wheel and what it is mounted to. I used the following video to find out how to fix this issue:

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Thank you for your answer, and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Please note that linking to a video with the solution is not really acceptable, links may suffer from link rot and become useless. Instead, summarize the steps from the video in your answer and you might receive votes to increase your reputation. The higher the reputation, the more functionality is unlocked!  

---

