<p>Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one.  The first ones to come to mind:</p>

<ul>
<li>really dial in the nozzle height</li>
<li>make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)</li>
<li>print the first layer very slowly</li>
<li>print the first layer at higher temperature</li>
<li>use a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation)</li>
<li>turn off the part fan for the first layer</li>
<li>adapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...)</li>
</ul>

<p>If your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-13T03:07:25.850Z
Note that modern Cura has a "brim gap" option that makes brim a lot less offensive. By leaving 0.1 mm or so between the model and the brim you make it removable without damage to the print.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-14T07:56:48.380Z
2018-02-14T18:29:45.443Z
2018-02-14T18:29:45.443Z
mac
<p><strong>Fresh</strong> 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA.</p>

<p>The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to <strong>really</strong> stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70&nbsp;&deg;C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic surface fibers on the tape...</p>

<p>(I like to print PETG as well, and that sticks too well to PEI, so I use blue 3M tape for both.)</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-13T06:30:00.790Z
I print onto painters tape on my unheated bed... so yes, this works, but the gliue is overkill XD
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-13T13:38:01.623Z
I often eschew the glue if I’m printing a part with low risk of warping, but if I need the overkill for a higher-risk part (e.g. long narrow structural elements) then the glue can make the difference between low-warp, and no-warp.
woneill1701
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-06-13T01:09:34.760Z
2020-06-13T05:32:08.867Z
2020-06-13T05:32:08.867Z
woneill1701
<p>Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print. </p>

<p>I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-09-04T16:36:18.907Z
Point a hair dryer at the underside of the bed :D
Joel Coehoorn
<pla><adhesion><anet-a6>
Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed
Ljk2000
# Getting PLA to stick to a cold bed

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-02-14)

Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print.

I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print.

**Tags:** pla, adhesion, anet-a6
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Point a hair dryer at the underside of the bed :D  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2018-02-14. Score: 9

Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind:

* really dial in the nozzle height
* make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm)
* print the first layer very slowly
* print the first layer at higher temperature
* use a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation)
* turn off the part fan for the first layer
* adapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...)

If your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Note that modern Cura has a "brim gap" option that makes brim a lot less offensive. By leaving 0.1 mm or so between the model and the brim you make it removable without damage to the print.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2020-06-13. Score: 2

**Fresh** 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA.

The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to **really** stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70 °C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic surface fibers on the tape...

(I like to print PETG as well, and that sticks too well to PEI, so I use blue 3M tape for both.)

> **Comments:**
> **username_5**: I print onto painters tape on my unheated bed... so yes, this works, but the gliue is overkill XD  
> **username_4**: I often eschew the glue if I’m printing a part with low risk of warping, but if I need the overkill for a higher-risk part (e.g. long narrow structural elements) then the glue can make the difference between low-warp, and no-warp.  

---

