<p>Oh thats simple. First you will see the "elephants foot" on first layers if you have the extruder over-extruding or do not have enough distance between the bed and nozzle. 
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/OHguv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/OHguv.jpg" alt="Elephants foot"></a></p>

<blockquote>
  <p>It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be. This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot. You can decrease this effect by leveling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion. It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard.</p>
</blockquote>

<p><a href="http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide" rel="nofollow noreferrer">See this visual guide on more information</a></p>

<p>If you are seeing this on all layers. That means you have oozing. When your printer hits the end of the line. It has to slow down, stop and start the next vector. During this time if your printing very hot, you will ooze material at this intersection. Also the extra time over that spot mayhaps also warm the corner, causing more disruption. Best thing in this situation is to verify you cannot lower temps more. Add a fan. Also double check that you are extruding the exact amount you think you are. (distance of material and the material size average)</p>

<p><a href="https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here is another visual trouble shooting guide</a></p>

<p>I will note, I don't think thats too bad. If it needs to fit into something, just clip it.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T13:17:10.477Z
Hmmm, I guess it could be oozing due to the temp.  I'll try some cooling settings.
easycheese
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T22:46:49.033Z
If you want to post your firmware settings and temps as well.
MakerModder
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T04:25:44.087Z
2017-01-02T04:25:44.087Z
MakerModder
<p>Enable &quot;classic jerk&quot; in the firmware and put it to 12 on both X and Y.</p>
<p>That helped me get perfect prints.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-14T18:32:57.170Z
2021-12-14T20:28:08.350Z
2021-12-14T20:28:08.350Z
Jesper Max
<p>Three factors that will impact the 'sharpness' of corners, first is your extruder speed, second is retraction rate and third is nozzle diameter.</p>

<p>By slowing down your extruder will be able to track the features of your model better. I generally try to print with extruder speeds of ~10mm/s which gives fairly good results. The nozzle diameter will be the most extreme limiting condition on how sharp you can get your corners. This I think is likely your issue. </p>

<p>Retraction rate <em>could</em> have an effect on the corner sharpness. I don't think that's the problem you're experiencing but worth mentioning. Depending on the specific geometry if your nozzle stops at a corner while it raises in Z if your retraction is too low additional filament can ooze out making the corners appear more rounded.</p>

<p>Typically a nozzle diameters are about 0.4mm which is pretty sharp, however if you have something larger that could effect it as well. Again, not your specific issue but something to keep in mind for future builds.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-06T18:10:27.000Z
2017-01-06T18:10:27.000Z
Diesel
<p>Your printer is over extruding.</p>

<p>It looks like PLA on the photo, the preset multiplier in S3D is 0.90 (not 1.0!)</p>

<p>The nozzle diameter should be the same as the extrusion width (both 0.40).</p>

<p>When you set the width to auto you get a bigger width. I don't really know why, but it was told me so.</p>

<p>If you print 1.75 mm you have to measure it and (the actual diameter is often around 1.78 mm, maybe less too). The multiplier of 0.9 is because PLA is softer then ABS for example. Maybe you should try other multipliers as well, maybe down to 0.85 in 0.01 steps.</p>

<p>I hope you can figure this problem out. I am experimenting by myself for days now to get it as sharp as possible. The goal is to get an edge with the diameter of the nozzle - not a bit more.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-12-15T09:02:43.313Z
This answer is almost completely wrong. The preset multiplier depends on the tension of the spring in the extruder, it cannot be blindly predicted but it must be measured. The extrusion width can be the same of the nozzle diameter, but it is recommended that it is around 10-15% LARGER, so 0.45 mm for 0.4 mm nozzle. Filaments are usually smaller than 1.75 mm or equal, not common to be larger (for obvious reasons: larger diameters may not fit in some low quality printers). Also, PLA is far harder than ABS.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-23T16:19:38.523Z
2018-05-23T20:20:13.287Z
2018-05-23T20:20:13.287Z
OsterNikolaus
<p>If it's on each corner, and not the layer change corner, it's a combination of overshoot and the short "pause" of the printer when it changes direction.   </p>

<p>You can minimize it, but it won't go away 100% (due to overshoot from direction changes), usually models with a slight rounded corners work great.  If you, say, increase the jerk as an experiment and they get sharper (but you obviously have to deal with potential ringing artifacts) then it's due to that pause and acceleration after a direction change.</p>

<p>I would try lowering the temperature a bit to slow the flow/oozing of the nozzle and calibrate extrusion - just to keep the settings tight as possible to keep dimensional accuracy, but not under extrude obviously.   </p>

<p>If it's where a layer change occurs, tweak and play with retraction settings - such as coasting and extra distance on restart (you can put negative values here). Once those are set, as an advanced tweak, try to max the z speed... Obviously this involves motor current, testing for skipped steps etc... but this would make the layer change a bit quicker, to further reduce oozing, due to the delay in layer changes if retraction settings don't fix it. </p>

<p>Usually, you can fix the corners with retraction settings but then it can mess up other parts of a model, since those settings are global... I wish slicers were more intelligent.   </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T22:45:49.403Z
I don't think it's whiplash. It it was it would be less uniform and not on every axis. Also while there is no photo they did not complain about the walls having deformities caused by the random offset.
MakerModder
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-03T17:17:33.410Z
true, other case would be if the belts were loose on both.  forgot about that.
Eric Kelly
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-04-20T01:31:25.503Z
One of the belts was loose, I also played with the retraction settings and speeds.  Problem has definitely minimized.
easycheese
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T17:46:41.827Z
2017-05-22T16:43:10.940Z
2017-05-22T16:43:10.940Z
Eric Kelly
<pre><code>Nozzle diameter = .4
Extrusion multiplier = 1
Extrusion Width = .45    &lt;-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?

Layer Height = .3
</code></pre>

<p>I'm using Simplify3D.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/SsiMS.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/SsiMS.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1tTZ5.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1tTZ5.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T01:09:19.500Z
What looks interesting is that the right hand side bevel seems to have excess material, but the left hand side does not. I assume this is the part which you're asking about? Extrusion width should match the nozzle size.
Sean Houlihane
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T01:30:40.680Z
Left side does as well.  Look at each corner, you see how it looks like there is a circle on each of them?  Also, I'm using the extrusion width profile from the manufacturer...presumably it's supposed to be good?
easycheese
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T07:41:52.023Z
Is that photo from the top or bottom of the print?
Gunslinger
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T13:15:49.203Z
The effect can be seen on every layer.
easycheese
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-02T13:19:17.010Z
To me, it appears that the short segment is offset about 1mm in the NE direction. Left side seems slightly open, right side seems compressed.  So on the left side, the curve is due to the sides peeling back from open ends, at the right, there is over-extrusion. This would make it a mechanical problem of some sort - possibly due to drag from the filament feed making the travel asymetric.
Sean Houlihane
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-04-16T18:48:15.333Z
Are any of the answers posted here solutions to your question? If so, you may want to mark them as such, if not what else is still outstanding?
Diesel
<extrusion>
What causes these round corners
easycheese
# What causes these round corners

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-01-01)

Nozzle diameter = .4
Extrusion multiplier = 1
Extrusion Width = .45    <-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?

Layer Height = .3

I'm using Simplify3D.

**Tags:** extrusion
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: What looks interesting is that the right hand side bevel seems to have excess material, but the left hand side does not. I assume this is the part which you're asking about? Extrusion width should match the nozzle size.  
> **username_0**: Left side does as well.  Look at each corner, you see how it looks like there is a circle on each of them?  Also, I'm using the extrusion width profile from the manufacturer...presumably it's supposed to be good?  
> **username_2**: Is that photo from the top or bottom of the print?  
> **username_0**: The effect can be seen on every layer.  
> **username_1**: To me, it appears that the short segment is offset about 1mm in the NE direction. Left side seems slightly open, right side seems compressed.  So on the left side, the curve is due to the sides peeling back from open ends, at the right, there is over-extrusion. This would make it a mechanical problem of some sort - possibly due to drag from the filament feed making the travel asymetric.  
> **username_3**: Are any of the answers posted here solutions to your question? If so, you may want to mark them as such, if not what else is still outstanding?  

---

## 5 answers

### Answer by username_8 on 2017-01-02. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

If it's on each corner, and not the layer change corner, it's a combination of overshoot and the short "pause" of the printer when it changes direction.

You can minimize it, but it won't go away 100% (due to overshoot from direction changes), usually models with a slight rounded corners work great. If you, say, increase the jerk as an experiment and they get sharper (but you obviously have to deal with potential ringing artifacts) then it's due to that pause and acceleration after a direction change.

I would try lowering the temperature a bit to slow the flow/oozing of the nozzle and calibrate extrusion - just to keep the settings tight as possible to keep dimensional accuracy, but not under extrude obviously.

If it's where a layer change occurs, tweak and play with retraction settings - such as coasting and extra distance on restart (you can put negative values here). Once those are set, as an advanced tweak, try to max the z speed... Obviously this involves motor current, testing for skipped steps etc... but this would make the layer change a bit quicker, to further reduce oozing, due to the delay in layer changes if retraction settings don't fix it.

Usually, you can fix the corners with retraction settings but then it can mess up other parts of a model, since those settings are global... I wish slicers were more intelligent.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: I don't think it's whiplash. It it was it would be less uniform and not on every axis. Also while there is no photo they did not complain about the walls having deformities caused by the random offset.  
> **username_8**: true, other case would be if the belts were loose on both.  forgot about that.  
> **username_0**: One of the belts was loose, I also played with the retraction settings and speeds.  Problem has definitely minimized.  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2017-01-02. Score: 2

Oh thats simple. First you will see the "elephants foot" on first layers if you have the extruder over-extruding or do not have enough distance between the bed and nozzle.
[![Elephants foot](https://i.sstatic.net/OHguv.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/OHguv.jpg)

> It's very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be. This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant's foot. You can decrease this effect by leveling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit. It's hard to get rid of this effect entirely without sacrificing bottom layer quality and bed adhesion. It will be easier on small prints as they are less likely to warp and detach from the platform and you can therefore get away with not squishing the first layer as hard.

[See this visual guide on more information](http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide)

If you are seeing this on all layers. That means you have oozing. When your printer hits the end of the line. It has to slow down, stop and start the next vector. During this time if your printing very hot, you will ooze material at this intersection. Also the extra time over that spot mayhaps also warm the corner, causing more disruption. Best thing in this situation is to verify you cannot lower temps more. Add a fan. Also double check that you are extruding the exact amount you think you are. (distance of material and the material size average)

[Here is another visual trouble shooting guide](https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide/)

I will note, I don't think thats too bad. If it needs to fit into something, just clip it.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Hmmm, I guess it could be oozing due to the temp.  I'll try some cooling settings.  
> **username_4**: If you want to post your firmware settings and temps as well.  

---

### Answer by username_5 on 2021-12-14. Score: 0

Enable "classic jerk" in the firmware and put it to 12 on both X and Y.

That helped me get perfect prints.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-01-06. Score: 0

Three factors that will impact the 'sharpness' of corners, first is your extruder speed, second is retraction rate and third is nozzle diameter.

By slowing down your extruder will be able to track the features of your model better. I generally try to print with extruder speeds of ~10mm/s which gives fairly good results. The nozzle diameter will be the most extreme limiting condition on how sharp you can get your corners. This I think is likely your issue.

Retraction rate *could* have an effect on the corner sharpness. I don't think that's the problem you're experiencing but worth mentioning. Depending on the specific geometry if your nozzle stops at a corner while it raises in Z if your retraction is too low additional filament can ooze out making the corners appear more rounded.

Typically a nozzle diameters are about 0.4mm which is pretty sharp, however if you have something larger that could effect it as well. Again, not your specific issue but something to keep in mind for future builds.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2018-05-23. Score: -1

Your printer is over extruding.

It looks like PLA on the photo, the preset multiplier in S3D is 0.90 (not 1.0!)

The nozzle diameter should be the same as the extrusion width (both 0.40).

When you set the width to auto you get a bigger width. I don't really know why, but it was told me so.

If you print 1.75 mm you have to measure it and (the actual diameter is often around 1.78 mm, maybe less too). The multiplier of 0.9 is because PLA is softer then ABS for example. Maybe you should try other multipliers as well, maybe down to 0.85 in 0.01 steps.

I hope you can figure this problem out. I am experimenting by myself for days now to get it as sharp as possible. The goal is to get an edge with the diameter of the nozzle - not a bit more.

> **Comments:**
> **username_7**: This answer is almost completely wrong. The preset multiplier depends on the tension of the spring in the extruder, it cannot be blindly predicted but it must be measured. The extrusion width can be the same of the nozzle diameter, but it is recommended that it is around 10-15% LARGER, so 0.45 mm for 0.4 mm nozzle. Filaments are usually smaller than 1.75 mm or equal, not common to be larger (for obvious reasons: larger diameters may not fit in some low quality printers). Also, PLA is far harder than ABS.  

---

