<h2>Scrap the prints</h2>
<p>You didn't cure the print, and your paint might interact with the resin in such a way that it might never cure. The paint also will prevent UV rays from accessing the resin.</p>
<p>With this prospect, the only diligent way to go is to treat the item as potentially dangerous and discard it in the proper way.</p>
<p>Layering paints that have not cured fully is also an accident waiting to happen, so better <strong>don't</strong>.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-20T18:06:48.290Z
2022-01-22T13:03:48.730Z
2022-01-22T13:03:48.730Z
Trish
<p>I know that you are not supposed to cure resin prints in the window, but mostly it has been working OK for me. I mostly print minis and props for D&amp;D.</p>
<p>Last week I printed some walls and was a bit impatient to see what they would look like, so I painted them 1 hour after they'd finished. I´m coming to regret that decision since as of writing they still have that newly printed sticky wetness feel to them. I had calculated with the paint sealing the partially uncured resin in but this doesn't seem to be the case at all.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any ideas that might work? Will they eventually cure enough in the paint layer that the stickiness will go away? Would another layer of paint help? Or leaving them out in the sunlight for a few days? Or do they go into the trash bin? I also considered if some kind of lacquer would help, though I don't want them to be shiny.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-20T23:10:05.903Z
If you've been curing through glass, you may not have been getting sufficient intensity of the correct frequencies of UV light necessary to complete the cure. Step outside with the part, rotate it a few times in the sun, perhaps three to five minutes or so. It's astonishing how quickly the big ball of fire in the sky cures the resin. Fully uncured resin in volume gets painfully hot when cured in the sun.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-21T23:14:09.033Z
@fred_dot_u winter might need longer time, but the paint coat will not allow UV light to get to the resin.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-22T11:01:14.393Z
roger that, my suggestion was directed to pre-painting curing practice.
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-22T12:50:38.127Z
thanks for the comments both. there has been a new development with my project. One of the walls cracked open a bit and a lot of fluid resin trapped inside the hollowed out model ran out. Yuck! Into the trash they go!
hans nordblad
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-01-22T13:05:28.487Z
As a side note: a hollowed model needs both an air-intake hole *somewhere* (preferably as close to the most upper part of the hollow) as well as a resin drain hole, the latter at the lowest point of the hollow. See also the [Cupping question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints)
Trish
<resin><post-processing>
I painted an uncured UV resin print, now it feels sticky through the paint
hans nordblad
# I painted an uncured UV resin print, now it feels sticky through the paint

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-01-20)

I know that you are not supposed to cure resin prints in the window, but mostly it has been working OK for me. I mostly print minis and props for D&D.

Last week I printed some walls and was a bit impatient to see what they would look like, so I painted them 1 hour after they'd finished. I´m coming to regret that decision since as of writing they still have that newly printed sticky wetness feel to them. I had calculated with the paint sealing the partially uncured resin in but this doesn't seem to be the case at all.

Does anyone have any ideas that might work? Will they eventually cure enough in the paint layer that the stickiness will go away? Would another layer of paint help? Or leaving them out in the sunlight for a few days? Or do they go into the trash bin? I also considered if some kind of lacquer would help, though I don't want them to be shiny.

**Tags:** resin, post-processing
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: If you've been curing through glass, you may not have been getting sufficient intensity of the correct frequencies of UV light necessary to complete the cure. Step outside with the part, rotate it a few times in the sun, perhaps three to five minutes or so. It's astonishing how quickly the big ball of fire in the sky cures the resin. Fully uncured resin in volume gets painfully hot when cured in the sun.  
> **username_2**: @fred_dot_u winter might need longer time, but the paint coat will not allow UV light to get to the resin.  
> **username_1**: roger that, my suggestion was directed to pre-painting curing practice.  
> **username_0**: thanks for the comments both. there has been a new development with my project. One of the walls cracked open a bit and a lot of fluid resin trapped inside the hollowed out model ran out. Yuck! Into the trash they go!  
> **username_2**: As a side note: a hollowed model needs both an air-intake hole *somewhere* (preferably as close to the most upper part of the hollow) as well as a resin drain hole, the latter at the lowest point of the hollow. See also the [Cupping question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13988/why-is-cupping-bad-in-sla-prints)  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2022-01-20. Score: 5 | Accepted answer

## Scrap the prints

You didn't cure the print, and your paint might interact with the resin in such a way that it might never cure. The paint also will prevent UV rays from accessing the resin.

With this prospect, the only diligent way to go is to treat the item as potentially dangerous and discard it in the proper way.

Layering paints that have not cured fully is also an accident waiting to happen, so better **don't**.


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