<p>The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:</p>
<p>Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.</p>
<p>It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.</p>
<p>Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-25T22:01:10.560Z
If you add tape between the heated bed and the glass, the heat isn't transferred by contact, an insulation layer of air is in between and the glass and bed so the glass will not warm up evenly. Nowadays, Marlin has a feature to probe the bed to adjust for the shape of the bed when enabled in firmware.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-26T02:37:50.800Z
Probing for shape doesn't help make the bottom of your prints flat, dimensionally accurate, or extruded by the correct amount. It just makes them adhere. Shimming the bed is the right solution. Uneven heating is a minor issue.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-26T05:58:24.160Z
Ender 3 V2 has a default glass bed. I doubt it is not perfect flat for a glass bed.
GeneCode
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-02T12:47:24.147Z
Given modern ways to produce glas it would be funny if it would not be flat. On a mirror surface (i.e. a steel spring print bed) behind the glass, you would easily be able to SEE the visual distortions - 0.1mm is a LOT of problems for a mirror. Which is why modern glass production techniques are VERY good at making planar glass. Technically not planar, but the earths diameter (no joke, this IS how good they get) is quite straight for something as small as a print surface.
TomTom
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-25T19:05:29.143Z
2020-07-25T19:05:29.143Z
mike
<p>I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.</p>
<p>In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.</p>
<p>I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.</p>
<p>The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-02T14:58:25.277Z
2021-01-02T17:52:55.977Z
2021-01-02T17:52:55.977Z
Pixel
<p>Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.</p>
<p>Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319</a> (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.</p>
<p>After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners  but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?</p>
<p>Corner pice:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/BGeA2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/BGeA2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Center piece:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/gfSas.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/gfSas.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-25T22:03:56.520Z
With `Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling` do you mean you have a levelling sensor? E.g. like an inductive or touch sensor? Or is this a typo, you have a standard Ender 3 and are stuck at levelling?
0scar
<creality-ender-3><pla><bed-leveling>
How can I make bed leveling improvements in the middle of my Ender 3 V2 bed?
Artoa
# How can I make bed leveling improvements in the middle of my Ender 3 V2 bed?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-07-25)

Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.

Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319> (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.

After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?

Corner pice:
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/BGeA2.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/BGeA2.jpg)

Center piece:
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/gfSas.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/gfSas.jpg)

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, pla, bed-leveling
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: With `Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling` do you mean you have a levelling sensor? E.g. like an inductive or touch sensor? Or is this a typo, you have a standard Ender 3 and are stuck at levelling?  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2020-07-25. Score: 2

The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:

Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.

It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.

Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: If you add tape between the heated bed and the glass, the heat isn't transferred by contact, an insulation layer of air is in between and the glass and bed so the glass will not warm up evenly. Nowadays, Marlin has a feature to probe the bed to adjust for the shape of the bed when enabled in firmware.  
> **username_3**: Probing for shape doesn't help make the bottom of your prints flat, dimensionally accurate, or extruded by the correct amount. It just makes them adhere. Shimming the bed is the right solution. Uneven heating is a minor issue.  
> **username_4**: Ender 3 V2 has a default glass bed. I doubt it is not perfect flat for a glass bed.  
> **username_5**: Given modern ways to produce glas it would be funny if it would not be flat. On a mirror surface (i.e. a steel spring print bed) behind the glass, you would easily be able to SEE the visual distortions - 0.1mm is a LOT of problems for a mirror. Which is why modern glass production techniques are VERY good at making planar glass. Technically not planar, but the earths diameter (no joke, this IS how good they get) is quite straight for something as small as a print surface.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2021-01-02. Score: 1

I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.

In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.

I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.

The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.


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