<p>PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 ‎°C (293 °F).</p>
<p>Melting temperature
345 ‎°C (653 °F)</p>
<p>Nozzle temperature
370 - 410 ‎°C</p>
<p>Heated bed
120 - 150 ‎°C</p>
<hr />
<p>Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F)</p>
<hr />
<p>Polypropylene has a glass transition temperature is 215 °C</p>
<hr />
<p>Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (specialized Nylon) Filament has a softening temperature of ~180 °C, but they don't specify the glass transition temperature.  Other materials have the glass transition temperature about 5 °C below the temperature the material softens.</p>
<p>However, the glass transition temperature is only an indication of a physical change: while uncommon, a material may be rigid enough well above it's glass transition temperature.  <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties">How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?</a></p>
<p>A side issue to consider as far as layout is FDM prints are weakest between layers (layer separation), so you want a layout where this affects your print the least.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T14:21:54.513Z
Polymaker CoPA (nylon, modified) should not deform up to 180°C.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T14:56:51.017Z
Does glass transition mean that it will start to deformate at that temperature? (ie for Polypropylene 215°C)
Carlo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T16:39:53.687Z
Glass transition means it is starting to move from solid to liquid, but doesn't have a distinct melting temperature with heat of fusion.  The material gradually gets easier to deform as the temperature goes above the glass transition temperature.
Perry Webb
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-27T09:01:18.967Z
@PerryWebb it depends, it's not a clear distinction. Plastics deform permanently also below the glass transition temperature (creep), and some are use routinely above their glass transition temperature without deformation. It's just a physical parameter that typically relates to a sudden increase of plasticity, but not always...
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-27T09:04:00.933Z
H/LDPE, POM, PP all have glass transition temperature below 0 °C but still are perfectly solid at room temperature. See https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-27T15:45:19.703Z
+1 for PEEK, it has great dimensional stability at a wide range of temperatures. If printing in PEEK, do some research on annealing for longer crystals and increased strength.
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-29T11:20:46.523Z
@PerryWebb maybe you want to add a link to https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties for the table with properties
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T14:13:55.790Z
2021-01-29T12:04:57.900Z
2021-01-29T12:04:57.900Z
Perry Webb
<p>Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.</p>
<p>It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.</p>
<p>Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T14:24:47.387Z
2021-01-28T10:19:53.197Z
2021-01-28T10:19:53.197Z
FarO
<p>I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.</p>
<p>Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most &quot;fragile&quot; material from this point of view and for my needs.</p>
<p>My questions are:</p>
<ol>
<li>Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?</li>
<li>Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T14:21:14.833Z
I think there should be only one question per "question".
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-26T19:50:10.450Z
The problem with two questions is you have two different answers to two different questions, but you are only allowed to select one as answering your question.
Perry Webb
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-27T12:45:52.357Z
This question would be better off by splitting the 2 questions in 2 separate questions. The current accepted answer does not answer the question in the title, that seems a bit odd. Either change the title, split the questions or rewrite the question to be more about the materials. I don't see a simple Ender printer be able to print e.g. PEEK. This might involve heavy modifications, NASA has done some effort including infrared lamps with that respect.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-01-27T18:28:32.873Z
If you print the part with PLA (for ease of printing), you can then create a mould with high-temperature silicone and use that to cast pewter. In case that gives you some useful ideas.
Andrew Morton
<3d-design><heat-management>
Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?
Carlo
# Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-01-25)

I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.

Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most "fragile" material from this point of view and for my needs.

My questions are:

1. Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?
2. Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?

**Tags:** 3d-design, heat-management
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I think there should be only one question per "question".  
> **username_2**: The problem with two questions is you have two different answers to two different questions, but you are only allowed to select one as answering your question.  
> **username_3**: This question would be better off by splitting the 2 questions in 2 separate questions. The current accepted answer does not answer the question in the title, that seems a bit odd. Either change the title, split the questions or rewrite the question to be more about the materials. I don't see a simple Ender printer be able to print e.g. PEEK. This might involve heavy modifications, NASA has done some effort including infrared lamps with that respect.  
> **username_4**: If you print the part with PLA (for ease of printing), you can then create a mould with high-temperature silicone and use that to cast pewter. In case that gives you some useful ideas.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-01-26. Score: 2 | Accepted answer

PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 ‎°C (293 °F).

Melting temperature
345 ‎°C (653 °F)

Nozzle temperature
370 - 410 ‎°C

Heated bed
120 - 150 ‎°C

---

Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F)

---

Polypropylene has a glass transition temperature is 215 °C

---

Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (specialized Nylon) Filament has a softening temperature of ~180 °C, but they don't specify the glass transition temperature. Other materials have the glass transition temperature about 5 °C below the temperature the material softens.

However, the glass transition temperature is only an indication of a physical change: while uncommon, a material may be rigid enough well above it's glass transition temperature. [How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties)

A side issue to consider as far as layout is FDM prints are weakest between layers (layer separation), so you want a layout where this affects your print the least.

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Polymaker CoPA (nylon, modified) should not deform up to 180°C.  
> **username_0**: Does glass transition mean that it will start to deformate at that temperature? (ie for Polypropylene 215°C)  
> **username_2**: Glass transition means it is starting to move from solid to liquid, but doesn't have a distinct melting temperature with heat of fusion.  The material gradually gets easier to deform as the temperature goes above the glass transition temperature.  
> **username_1**: @PerryWebb it depends, it's not a clear distinction. Plastics deform permanently also below the glass transition temperature (creep), and some are use routinely above their glass transition temperature without deformation. It's just a physical parameter that typically relates to a sudden increase of plasticity, but not always...  
> **username_1**: H/LDPE, POM, PP all have glass transition temperature below 0 °C but still are perfectly solid at room temperature. See https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature  
> **username_5**: +1 for PEEK, it has great dimensional stability at a wide range of temperatures. If printing in PEEK, do some research on annealing for longer crystals and increased strength.  
> **username_1**: @PerryWebb maybe you want to add a link to https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties for the table with properties  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2021-01-26. Score: 4

Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.

It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.

Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.


---

