<p>Did you wait an appropriate time after the print is finished? The plate should cool down first which will make it easier to remove the print and not damage the plate.</p>
<p>Another thing might be a wrong Z offset, check what your first layer looks like. If it is too squished, you will need to raise the Z offset a little bit. If you are unsure how to calibrate the Z offset, google &quot;Ender 2 z offset&quot; and you will see plenty of online material to choose from.</p>
<p>For the first layer, I like to reference the article <a href="https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364" rel="nofollow noreferrer">First Layer Calibration (i3)</a> from Prusa.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-15T17:59:02.160Z
it is the same with prints that have finished during the night with a ~23°C bed temp. Thank you for the references. I will go through them.
JoSSte
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-15T17:25:41.837Z
2024-07-15T20:26:10.207Z
2024-07-15T20:26:10.207Z
Ondřej Beneš
<p>You could try to use an bed adhesive like 3DLAC, it doesn't only make filament stick better to the build plate, in other cases it also acts as a release agent. E.g when printing PETG on PEI sheets, it is a must to use, I literally fused PETG prints to a sheet of PEI without such an agent, the prints came off quite well with the applied adhesive.</p>
<p>Note that for printing ABS you definitely want to have a good bonding, too weak and your printed parts will deform.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-16T08:09:40.583Z
I actually tried ABS for the first time yesterday with the exact opposite, and as I understand it classical warping and release from the print bed. I will search for 3DLAC and try that.
JoSSte
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-16T05:57:30.620Z
2024-07-16T05:57:30.620Z
0scar
<p>I have an Ender-2 which I bought used. I have mostly printed in PLA, since I have had some bed heating issues when printing with ABS.</p>
<p>I have had a lot of issues removing prints from the build plate - even with no effort put into bed adhesion. A recent cleaning and recalibration has solved the issue partly, but not significantly. I also tried switching slicer from cura to prusa slicer, which I am still trying to judge whether this has improved the situation.</p>
<p>I find myself with a hobby knife trying to wedge it under each print with quite significant force. Is there a calibration step I am missing, or a setting to have less bed adhesion?</p>
<p>I have printed several of these <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3340651" rel="nofollow noreferrer">battery holders</a> standing on the shortest edge with almost no support, and every time I am worried I am going to break it. (I have broken several smaller items wrenching them off the build plate.)</p>

<adhesion><creality-ender-2>
Extreme bed adhesion
JoSSte
# Extreme bed adhesion

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-07-15)

I have an Ender-2 which I bought used. I have mostly printed in PLA, since I have had some bed heating issues when printing with ABS.

I have had a lot of issues removing prints from the build plate - even with no effort put into bed adhesion. A recent cleaning and recalibration has solved the issue partly, but not significantly. I also tried switching slicer from cura to prusa slicer, which I am still trying to judge whether this has improved the situation.

I find myself with a hobby knife trying to wedge it under each print with quite significant force. Is there a calibration step I am missing, or a setting to have less bed adhesion?

I have printed several of these [battery holders](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3340651) standing on the shortest edge with almost no support, and every time I am worried I am going to break it. (I have broken several smaller items wrenching them off the build plate.)

**Tags:** adhesion, creality-ender-2

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2024-07-15. Score: 1

Did you wait an appropriate time after the print is finished? The plate should cool down first which will make it easier to remove the print and not damage the plate.

Another thing might be a wrong Z offset, check what your first layer looks like. If it is too squished, you will need to raise the Z offset a little bit. If you are unsure how to calibrate the Z offset, google "Ender 2 z offset" and you will see plenty of online material to choose from.

For the first layer, I like to reference the article [First Layer Calibration (i3)](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-calibration-i3_112364) from Prusa.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: it is the same with prints that have finished during the night with a ~23°C bed temp. Thank you for the references. I will go through them.  

---

### Answer by username_2 on 2024-07-16. Score: 0

You could try to use an bed adhesive like 3DLAC, it doesn't only make filament stick better to the build plate, in other cases it also acts as a release agent. E.g when printing PETG on PEI sheets, it is a must to use, I literally fused PETG prints to a sheet of PEI without such an agent, the prints came off quite well with the applied adhesive.

Note that for printing ABS you definitely want to have a good bonding, too weak and your printed parts will deform.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I actually tried ABS for the first time yesterday with the exact opposite, and as I understand it classical warping and release from the print bed. I will search for 3DLAC and try that.  

---

