<p><a href="https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Looking up your printer</a>, one thing I noticed is that it has power loss recovery. This feature writes to the SD card at the start of each new layer, stalling the print for at least a significant fraction of a second with the filament unretracted, which will make a nasty blob wherever the toolhead happens to be positioned. Absolutely turn this off. It's impossible to get quality prints with that feature on. If there's no menu option to turn it off, you'll have to rebuild the firmware or get alternate firmware from someone else.</p>
<p>It looks like you have moderate overextrusion. If the esteps were tuned, you probably adjusted them too much in the direction to increase extrusion and should reset to the factory setting and calibrate again, erring on the side of less extrusion rather than more.</p>
<p>There are a number of places (especially on the cabin) where some walls are inset relative to where the wall was supposed to be, and where it's present in other layers. This is almost surely a result of losing material to oozing in the interior of the model, as a result of &quot;combing&quot;. See <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11005/11157">this answer</a> for details.</p>
<p>On the hull (especially the bow), it looks like you might be experiencing the consequences of numerical precision bugs in Cura, which result in erroneous tiny segments that break up smooth traversal of curves, leaving blobs where the toolhead stutters. Watch during printing and see if the nozzle is stuttering (suddenly slowing down then speeding up again) along these curves. If so, make sure the Maximum Resolution and Maximum Deviation settings are 0.5 and 0.025 respectively. These are the modern Cura defaults that avoid the problem, but some profiles (and some older versions of Cura) have values that trigger the bugs.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T08:13:57.943Z
Power loss recovery *can* be worked around, for example by having a move out of the print whenever swapping layers or saving. Not the fastest way, but possible.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T14:52:21.770Z
@Trish: Well that's also necessarily going to waste a lot of material and make it hard to keep the nozzle primed properly. As I understand it, you need to make an actual "print move" (motion & extruding together) in the new layer to trigger the save. And the save is also not synchronous with respect to the gcode; it starts when the first print move of the new layer is processed, but Marlin's interrupt handler keeps running the planned moves during it, so it's unpredictable where the planner buffer might become exhausted during the save unless you use long dwells.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T03:23:35.843Z
2022-04-28T03:23:35.843Z
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
<p>230 is very hot for PLA+ and the pictures look like it's printing too hot for a start. It's hard to tell if there are other issues until that basic one has been cleared up. Where did you get the instructions for 230 degrees?</p>
<p>I suggest printing at 200 degrees or perhaps 210 degrees and then moving forwards from those results.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T05:06:18.340Z
The recommended temperature was 230 degrees
Jayson Meribe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T05:09:11.527Z
This is the specfic filament Polymaker Matte PLA Filament 1.75mm Wood Brown
Jayson Meribe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T05:17:24.597Z
Have you tried printing it cooler?
Kilisi
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T05:27:08.477Z
I looked it up, people using it say 200 degrees on Amazon and most of them are very unhappy with the filament https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Filament-1-75mm-Peanut-Carton/dp/B094FDSQHC?th=1
Kilisi
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T09:36:49.217Z
Besides the high temperature, also check for over extrusion.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-28T03:26:12.833Z
230 is on the hot end of PLA temperatures, but should not cause this kind of issue unless the layer times are very short, which is not going to be the case with a Benchy unless you're going for #speedboatrace speeds. And at those speeds, you need 230+ to get the flow - and of course appropriate cooling.
R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-04-27T04:55:11.517Z
2022-04-27T04:55:11.517Z
Kilisi
<p>Just got an LK5 and printed the included Benchy gcode. It looks pretty similar to the benchy in the pics with some of the blobs in the same location. Then I downloaded the benchy from Thingiverse and sliced it with the Longer 1.3 Slicer. Pretty good results from doing that but it took longer to print.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-22T18:19:57.900Z
Welcome to 3D Printing! This is really a comment, not an answer. With a bit more rep, [you will be able to post comments](//3dprinting.stackexchange.com/privileges/comment).
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-22T17:18:11.257Z
2022-08-22T17:18:11.257Z
printerGuy
<p>I need to print parts that fit together very well on the Longer LK5 Pro. However, after printing a Benchy, I noticed that whatever I print has a lot of imperfections. Is there any way I can fix this? All I know about the printing conditions was that I was printing at 230 °C nozzle temperature with 60 °C bed temperature. I was using PLA+. I was also printing the Benchy file that comes with the Longer LK5 printer. I tried tightening the Y-axis belt, that moves the bed, and the wheels on the bottom of the bed.</p>
<p>Here are pictures of my Benchy:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/K7a2T.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Top View"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/K7a2T.jpg" alt="Top view" title="Top View" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/Cm7Jt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Left hand side view"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/Cm7Jt.jpg" alt="Side view" title="Left hand side view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/ZYNXx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Bottom view"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/ZYNXx.jpg" alt="Bottom view" title="Bottom view" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3KTtu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Right hand side view"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3KTtu.jpg" alt="Right hand side view" title="Right hand side view" /></a></p>

<extruder><bed-leveling><stepper><belt><longer-lk5>
How to tune Longer LK5 Pro for smoother prints?
Jayson Meribe
# How to tune Longer LK5 Pro for smoother prints?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-04-26)

I need to print parts that fit together very well on the Longer LK5 Pro. However, after printing a Benchy, I noticed that whatever I print has a lot of imperfections. Is there any way I can fix this? All I know about the printing conditions was that I was printing at 230 °C nozzle temperature with 60 °C bed temperature. I was using PLA+. I was also printing the Benchy file that comes with the Longer LK5 printer. I tried tightening the Y-axis belt, that moves the bed, and the wheels on the bottom of the bed.

Here are pictures of my Benchy:

[![Top view](https://i.sstatic.net/K7a2T.jpg "Top View")](https://i.sstatic.net/K7a2T.jpg "Top View")

[![Side view](https://i.sstatic.net/Cm7Jt.jpg "Left hand side view")](https://i.sstatic.net/Cm7Jt.jpg "Left hand side view")

[![Bottom view](https://i.sstatic.net/ZYNXx.jpg "Bottom view")](https://i.sstatic.net/ZYNXx.jpg "Bottom view")

[![Right hand side view](https://i.sstatic.net/3KTtu.jpg "Right hand side view")](https://i.sstatic.net/3KTtu.jpg "Right hand side view")

**Tags:** extruder, bed-leveling, stepper, belt, longer-lk5

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-04-28. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

[Looking up your printer](https://www.longer3d.com/products/lk5-pro-fdm-3d-printer), one thing I noticed is that it has power loss recovery. This feature writes to the SD card at the start of each new layer, stalling the print for at least a significant fraction of a second with the filament unretracted, which will make a nasty blob wherever the toolhead happens to be positioned. Absolutely turn this off. It's impossible to get quality prints with that feature on. If there's no menu option to turn it off, you'll have to rebuild the firmware or get alternate firmware from someone else.

It looks like you have moderate overextrusion. If the esteps were tuned, you probably adjusted them too much in the direction to increase extrusion and should reset to the factory setting and calibrate again, erring on the side of less extrusion rather than more.

There are a number of places (especially on the cabin) where some walls are inset relative to where the wall was supposed to be, and where it's present in other layers. This is almost surely a result of losing material to oozing in the interior of the model, as a result of "combing". See [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/11005/11157) for details.

On the hull (especially the bow), it looks like you might be experiencing the consequences of numerical precision bugs in Cura, which result in erroneous tiny segments that break up smooth traversal of curves, leaving blobs where the toolhead stutters. Watch during printing and see if the nozzle is stuttering (suddenly slowing down then speeding up again) along these curves. If so, make sure the Maximum Resolution and Maximum Deviation settings are 0.5 and 0.025 respectively. These are the modern Cura defaults that avoid the problem, but some profiles (and some older versions of Cura) have values that trigger the bugs.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Power loss recovery *can* be worked around, for example by having a move out of the print whenever swapping layers or saving. Not the fastest way, but possible.  
> **username_1**: @Trish: Well that's also necessarily going to waste a lot of material and make it hard to keep the nozzle primed properly. As I understand it, you need to make an actual "print move" (motion & extruding together) in the new layer to trigger the save. And the save is also not synchronous with respect to the gcode; it starts when the first print move of the new layer is processed, but Marlin's interrupt handler keeps running the planned moves during it, so it's unpredictable where the planner buffer might become exhausted during the save unless you use long dwells.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2022-04-27. Score: 1

230 is very hot for PLA+ and the pictures look like it's printing too hot for a start. It's hard to tell if there are other issues until that basic one has been cleared up. Where did you get the instructions for 230 degrees?

I suggest printing at 200 degrees or perhaps 210 degrees and then moving forwards from those results.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The recommended temperature was 230 degrees  
> **username_0**: This is the specfic filament Polymaker Matte PLA Filament 1.75mm Wood Brown  
> **username_3**: Have you tried printing it cooler?  
> **username_3**: I looked it up, people using it say 200 degrees on Amazon and most of them are very unhappy with the filament https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Filament-1-75mm-Peanut-Carton/dp/B094FDSQHC?th=1  
> **username_4**: Besides the high temperature, also check for over extrusion.  
> **username_1**: 230 is on the hot end of PLA temperatures, but should not cause this kind of issue unless the layer times are very short, which is not going to be the case with a Benchy unless you're going for #speedboatrace speeds. And at those speeds, you need 230+ to get the flow - and of course appropriate cooling.  

---

### Answer by username_5 on 2022-08-22. Score: 0

Just got an LK5 and printed the included Benchy gcode. It looks pretty similar to the benchy in the pics with some of the blobs in the same location. Then I downloaded the benchy from Thingiverse and sliced it with the Longer 1.3 Slicer. Pretty good results from doing that but it took longer to print.

> **Comments:**
> **username_6**: Welcome to 3D Printing! This is really a comment, not an answer. With a bit more rep, [you will be able to post comments](//3dprinting.stackexchange.com/privileges/comment).  

---

