<p>Acetone is quite an aggressive solvent, so white residue could be part of your heatbed print surface that is dissolved, and then when the acetone evaporates the dissolved part crystalise on the heatbed again.</p>
<p>Acetone should only be used on PEI sparingly, not at all on powder coated surfaces. Use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to clean of residue between prints. If you have problems with adhesion, you can also start by washing the build plate or surface with water and dish soap (with no other additives). The surfactant in the soap traps oils and other impurities and flush them away, instead of dissolving them temporarily and then depositing it on the build surface again when the solvent evaporates.</p>
<p>Like mentioned in other comments, use IPA or water/dish soap to clean off any residue.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-02-20T19:39:19.663Z
Generally, when using any "chemical substance" I used to try it on a small part to chek the impact, especially when this is special item developed in the lab (with ingredients unknown for a user). Another thing, breathing acetone is dangerous and I take care to vent the room quickly just after using (or work outside).
octopus8
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-02-20T13:14:43.430Z
2021-02-20T13:14:43.430Z
Snympi
<p>If you use a build surface such as PEI, acetone frosts your surface, leaving a white film appearance.  If you have no additional surface on a glass or metal bed, it is incomplete cleaning.  If incomplete cleaning, you could try isopropyl alcohol (IPA) immediately after acetone, followed immediately by a water based cleaner or DI/distilled water. (IPA dissolves acetone and water dissolves IPA. Once the film dries the next step may not work.)</p>
<p>You can't clean off a frosted surface.  The black surface of the hot bed in images of the CR-10S Pro appears to indicate that the steel bed has a build surface with a plastic material such as PEI.  Reviews of the build surface being difficult to remove prints also implies a plastic build surface on the steel.  Thus, it appears that the white film after cleaning with acetone is actually a frosted surface.</p>
<p>If you use an Elmer's washable glue stick or one with PWP, it will form a barrier between your print and the build surface, that not only will protect your build surface, but will make it easier to clean your build surface with IPA or water based cleaners.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-02-19T11:45:57.820Z
2021-02-20T15:55:23.023Z
2021-02-20T15:55:23.023Z
Perry Webb
<p>I recently tried cleaning my CR-10S Pro heat bed with acetone and it made this white stain on it.</p>
<p>Anyone have any solutions to this?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-02-19T09:05:01.967Z
What is the question? You want to remove the white stains or solution to clean the bed. P.S. you shouldn't clean the bed surface area with acetone. You can use is on glass to remove left over ABS residue, PLA or [PETG](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/q/61703) cannot be dissolved in acetone.
0scar
<heated-bed><cleaning>
Acetone making white stains on heat bed
Jgun7
# Acetone making white stains on heat bed

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-02-19)

I recently tried cleaning my CR-10S Pro heat bed with acetone and it made this white stain on it.

Anyone have any solutions to this?

**Tags:** heated-bed, cleaning
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: What is the question? You want to remove the white stains or solution to clean the bed. P.S. you shouldn't clean the bed surface area with acetone. You can use is on glass to remove left over ABS residue, PLA or [PETG](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/q/61703) cannot be dissolved in acetone.  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-02-20. Score: 3

Acetone is quite an aggressive solvent, so white residue could be part of your heatbed print surface that is dissolved, and then when the acetone evaporates the dissolved part crystalise on the heatbed again.

Acetone should only be used on PEI sparingly, not at all on powder coated surfaces. Use IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) to clean of residue between prints. If you have problems with adhesion, you can also start by washing the build plate or surface with water and dish soap (with no other additives). The surfactant in the soap traps oils and other impurities and flush them away, instead of dissolving them temporarily and then depositing it on the build surface again when the solvent evaporates.

Like mentioned in other comments, use IPA or water/dish soap to clean off any residue.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: Generally, when using any "chemical substance" I used to try it on a small part to chek the impact, especially when this is special item developed in the lab (with ingredients unknown for a user). Another thing, breathing acetone is dangerous and I take care to vent the room quickly just after using (or work outside).  

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### Answer by username_4 on 2021-02-19. Score: 2

If you use a build surface such as PEI, acetone frosts your surface, leaving a white film appearance. If you have no additional surface on a glass or metal bed, it is incomplete cleaning. If incomplete cleaning, you could try isopropyl alcohol (IPA) immediately after acetone, followed immediately by a water based cleaner or DI/distilled water. (IPA dissolves acetone and water dissolves IPA. Once the film dries the next step may not work.)

You can't clean off a frosted surface. The black surface of the hot bed in images of the CR-10S Pro appears to indicate that the steel bed has a build surface with a plastic material such as PEI. Reviews of the build surface being difficult to remove prints also implies a plastic build surface on the steel. Thus, it appears that the white film after cleaning with acetone is actually a frosted surface.

If you use an Elmer's washable glue stick or one with PWP, it will form a barrier between your print and the build surface, that not only will protect your build surface, but will make it easier to clean your build surface with IPA or water based cleaners.


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