<p>Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?</p>
<p>Check <a href="https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver" rel="noreferrer">https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver</a></p>
<p>The same is on</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/y08v6PY_7ak?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>Frequencies at 200+ Hz should not get to the neighbours, the walls and floor will absorb them. Lower frequencies are transmitted much more (see the video).</p>
<p>Try that, it's super cheap, and if not enough let us know for further help.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T09:17:20.970Z
2021-03-08T09:17:20.970Z
FarO
<p>I noticed that my TMC drivers make a loud KLANK sound when switching from stealthchop to spreadcycle. The solution is to keep the in stealthchop at all time by butting the threshold really high (I set mine to 1000 mm/s). You may also look for resonance in your frame. If you’re using Klipper, you can use input Shaper with an accelerometer to lower ringing, it will improve your print ans make your printer quieter at the same time.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-28T18:31:14.630Z
I have the same sharp sound when switching between the modes.
dotswe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-30T08:10:08.497Z
TMC2209 datasheet says: "Use a low transfer velocity to avoid a jerk at the switching point.". I have tested switching between the modes and I need to go very low for the switching to spreadCycle not to be annoying.
dotswe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:22:18.533Z
2021-03-08T15:07:40.703Z
2021-03-08T15:07:40.703Z
Victor Lazaro
<p>Since you have already invested in reducing the noise of you printer:</p>
<ol>
<li><p>Move it away from the wall shared with your neighbor, or better a different room.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Reduce sound transmitted through the floor. Set the printer on some type of isolation table.  This can be from an elaborate marble table to some type of homemade setup.  You can put cushioning under the printer.  The heavier the furniture the better.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Add an acoustical barrier to the wall, from a blanket to shaped acoustical foam.</p>
</li>
<li><p>Invest in noise cancelling equipment.  Some are as low as $50.</p>
</li>
</ol>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2021-03-08T14:53:19.380Z
2021-03-08T15:13:10.123Z
2021-03-08T15:13:10.123Z
Perry Webb
<p>I want to be able to run my Chiron during night-time, but my neighbours tries to sleep at that time of day. I have put a lot of effort into making the printer silent. The controller-fan and power-supply-fan now run slower and only when needed, I have put the printer on those <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225296" rel="nofollow noreferrer">damper feet</a> found on Thingiverse, I have added rods to stabilize the gantry and I have switched to TMC2209 for X, Y and Z. I have made sure the TMCs are tuned for 24V and are using 'stealth chop' below 225 rpm (120 mm/s). The result is impressive compared to how noisy the printer was when I bought it.</p>
<p>One problem was not solved, when Y-axis moves at between 35 and 45 mm/s, the printer starts to loudly vibrate at 220 to 280 Hz. To mitigate that, I first tried to slow down printing, but then print quality was hurt by oozing. Now I have reverted back to my desired print speed, but limited Y-axis feed-rate in Marlin to 32 mm/s using <code>M203 Y 32</code>. It is quiet enough, but many movements are slowed down, affecting quality.</p>
<p>What can I do to stop or mute these vibrations?</p>
<p><strong>ADDED 2021-03-30</strong>
I have no proper accelerometer, so I used a MPU6050 accelerometer and some code in an ESP8266. It samples roughly 400 times per second and gives a vibration-value that can be used to <em>estimate</em> the level of vibrations. It is not frequency-compensated, but gives a hint of what is happening. And it can be used to compare settings.</p>
<p>I also made a program based on an example in TMCStepper so I could run the stepper and see/change all settings. This program also relays the measurements from my accelerometer so I can make graphs.</p>
<p>To do this I removed the stepper from the chassis, as I need to be somewhat quiet when doing these tests. It looks like this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/MSc3m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/MSc3m.jpg" alt="picture of stepper motor with accelerometer tucked between motor and console" /></a></p>
<p>This graph sums up my findings pretty well:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/5OYRE.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5OYRE.png" alt="graph comparing stealthchop, spreadcycle and the old A4988" /></a>
X-axis shows motor-speed in full steps per second, fsps. fsps corresponds to the frequency of the noises I want to conceal. 200 fsps = 1 revolution per second = 60 rpm. On Chiron Y-axis 60 rpm = 32 mm/s = F1920.</p>
<p>Y-axis is shown with the scale log10(accelerometer values).</p>
<p>Here are the TMC-settings I used during the tests, which are same/or close to what Marlin use for 24V Chiron:
(TPWMTHRS was set to 0 when I tested StealthChop)
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/bclvk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/bclvk.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>What I read from this chart (and my many measurements):
TMC2209 is much quieter below 120 fsps.
StealthChop is fantastic at low speeds.
StealthChop shall ONLY be used at really low speeds in a 3D printer. If at all, since switching mode also is noisy.
SpreadCycle use 256 usteps/fstep. A4988 use 16 usteps/fstep. I think that is the reason for TMC to be more quiet at low speeds.</p>
<p><strong>What I do not understand:</strong>
Why is TMC2209 seems to be more loud at higher speeds. It might make different vibrations that my makeshift accelerometer rates worse, of course. But can I have a defective TMC2209? Or are the BigTreeTech boards bad? Or have I got fake TMC2209 with worse performance?</p>

<bigtreetech><anycubic-chiron>
Noise cancelling Chiron Y-axis
dotswe
# Noise cancelling Chiron Y-axis

(Asked by: username_0 on 2021-03-08)

I want to be able to run my Chiron during night-time, but my neighbours tries to sleep at that time of day. I have put a lot of effort into making the printer silent. The controller-fan and power-supply-fan now run slower and only when needed, I have put the printer on those [damper feet](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225296) found on Thingiverse, I have added rods to stabilize the gantry and I have switched to TMC2209 for X, Y and Z. I have made sure the TMCs are tuned for 24V and are using 'stealth chop' below 225 rpm (120 mm/s). The result is impressive compared to how noisy the printer was when I bought it.

One problem was not solved, when Y-axis moves at between 35 and 45 mm/s, the printer starts to loudly vibrate at 220 to 280 Hz. To mitigate that, I first tried to slow down printing, but then print quality was hurt by oozing. Now I have reverted back to my desired print speed, but limited Y-axis feed-rate in Marlin to 32 mm/s using `M203 Y 32`. It is quiet enough, but many movements are slowed down, affecting quality.

What can I do to stop or mute these vibrations?

**ADDED 2021-03-30**
I have no proper accelerometer, so I used a MPU6050 accelerometer and some code in an ESP8266. It samples roughly 400 times per second and gives a vibration-value that can be used to *estimate* the level of vibrations. It is not frequency-compensated, but gives a hint of what is happening. And it can be used to compare settings.

I also made a program based on an example in TMCStepper so I could run the stepper and see/change all settings. This program also relays the measurements from my accelerometer so I can make graphs.

To do this I removed the stepper from the chassis, as I need to be somewhat quiet when doing these tests. It looks like this:

[![picture of stepper motor with accelerometer tucked between motor and console](https://i.sstatic.net/MSc3m.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/MSc3m.jpg)

This graph sums up my findings pretty well:
[![graph comparing stealthchop, spreadcycle and the old A4988](https://i.sstatic.net/5OYRE.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/5OYRE.png)
X-axis shows motor-speed in full steps per second, fsps. fsps corresponds to the frequency of the noises I want to conceal. 200 fsps = 1 revolution per second = 60 rpm. On Chiron Y-axis 60 rpm = 32 mm/s = F1920.

Y-axis is shown with the scale log10(accelerometer values).

Here are the TMC-settings I used during the tests, which are same/or close to what Marlin use for 24V Chiron:
(TPWMTHRS was set to 0 when I tested StealthChop)
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/bclvk.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/bclvk.png)

What I read from this chart (and my many measurements):
TMC2209 is much quieter below 120 fsps.
StealthChop is fantastic at low speeds.
StealthChop shall ONLY be used at really low speeds in a 3D printer. If at all, since switching mode also is noisy.
SpreadCycle use 256 usteps/fstep. A4988 use 16 usteps/fstep. I think that is the reason for TMC to be more quiet at low speeds.

**What I do not understand:**
Why is TMC2209 seems to be more loud at higher speeds. It might make different vibrations that my makeshift accelerometer rates worse, of course. But can I have a defective TMC2209? Or are the BigTreeTech boards bad? Or have I got fake TMC2209 with worse performance?

**Tags:** bigtreetech, anycubic-chiron

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2021-03-08. Score: 6

Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?

Check <https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3d-printing-noise-with-a-concrete-paver>

The same is on

Frequencies at 200+ Hz should not get to the neighbours, the walls and floor will absorb them. Lower frequencies are transmitted much more (see the video).

Try that, it's super cheap, and if not enough let us know for further help.


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2021-03-08. Score: 0

I noticed that my TMC drivers make a loud KLANK sound when switching from stealthchop to spreadcycle. The solution is to keep the in stealthchop at all time by butting the threshold really high (I set mine to 1000 mm/s). You may also look for resonance in your frame. If you’re using Klipper, you can use input Shaper with an accelerometer to lower ringing, it will improve your print ans make your printer quieter at the same time.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I have the same sharp sound when switching between the modes.  
> **username_0**: TMC2209 datasheet says: "Use a low transfer velocity to avoid a jerk at the switching point.". I have tested switching between the modes and I need to go very low for the switching to spreadCycle not to be annoying.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2021-03-08. Score: 0

Since you have already invested in reducing the noise of you printer:

1. Move it away from the wall shared with your neighbor, or better a different room.
2. Reduce sound transmitted through the floor. Set the printer on some type of isolation table. This can be from an elaborate marble table to some type of homemade setup. You can put cushioning under the printer. The heavier the furniture the better.
3. Add an acoustical barrier to the wall, from a blanket to shaped acoustical foam.
4. Invest in noise cancelling equipment. Some are as low as $50.


---

