<p>To answer your question you can either check one by one the datasheets from Polymaker, which provide various statements about it (weak acids, strong acids, oil, solvants, and so on) for all their materials, or you can go for a summary from for example from <a href="https://prusament.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-materials" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa</a></p>
<p>In particular, PETG and PC (usually holding well against many agents) are said to &quot;Resists poorly. Significant swelling and change in weight of the test sample (4-5% change in weight or dimensions) occurs with prolonged exposure of the polymer.&quot;.</p>
<p>On the other hand, with PP and PA you can have &quot;Resists very well. Polymer does not melt, absorb substance, or swell during a week’s immersion (less than 1% change in weight and dimensions).&quot;</p>
<p>PA can be bought easily and it costs half as much as PP so you may want to try PA first.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-07-01T12:22:24.570Z
2024-07-02T07:44:10.540Z
2024-07-02T07:44:10.540Z
FarO
<p>Not the easiest filament to print, but nylon is a contender. According to <a href="https://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chemical-compatibility-chart/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CP Lab Safety web site</a>, nylon rates A-Excellent in resistance to acetone.</p>
<p>If you require the components to be glued together, it's important to note that nylon is also quite resistant to most adhesives.</p>
<p>Nylon requires that it be run through a dehydrator/filament dryer prior to use and if the print duration is in excess of an hour, to feed the printer with a dry-box, as the material is quite hygroscopic which will degrade the print.</p>
<p>Nylon is easily found in &quot;natural&quot; filament color, covering that aspect of your question.</p>
<p>My acetone smoothing chamber used the grid from the door of a microwave oven as the base for the parts, with a set of wires running upward to a hook. I can preheat the cookie jar with a double boiler made of a frying pan until the acetone condenses on the sides of the jar as high as the expected parts. Open the top, lower the rig for 30 seconds and the job is done.</p>
<p>Hot acetone works that fast but should be done outside for safety reasons. Have a set of tongs handy to retrieve any parts that fall free of the lifting rig, as hot acetone burns the skin instantly, but doesn't seem to leave any lasting effects.</p>
<p>Summary, nylon is a good but challenging choice, metal may be easier.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-12T07:02:45.613Z
IME, nylon either needs an enclosed and heated printer or an uncomfortably warm room. A hack I've found useful is to print a raft, pause the printing, and to stick it down with kaptan tape (if your fingers can't cope with smoothing it onto the hotbed, then find another occupation :-)
Mark Morgan Lloyd
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-11T23:46:56.383Z
2024-05-11T23:46:56.383Z
fred_dot_u
<p>I want to print some elements for my acetone vapor smoothing chamber. <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/23279/20803">I have tried</a> to use Prusament PETG in the Prusa Orange color. It failed miserably.</p>
<p>What filament should I get to make sure it will stay unaffected? I'm pretty sure I want colorless one, but what base material should I use? Or should I just give up and try to manufacture it out of metal?</p>

<filament><acetone>
What filaments are resistant to acetone?
Mołot
# What filaments are resistant to acetone?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-05-11)

I want to print some elements for my acetone vapor smoothing chamber. [I have tried](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/23279/20803) to use Prusament PETG in the Prusa Orange color. It failed miserably.

What filament should I get to make sure it will stay unaffected? I'm pretty sure I want colorless one, but what base material should I use? Or should I just give up and try to manufacture it out of metal?

**Tags:** filament, acetone

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2024-07-01. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

To answer your question you can either check one by one the datasheets from Polymaker, which provide various statements about it (weak acids, strong acids, oil, solvants, and so on) for all their materials, or you can go for a summary from for example from [Prusa](https://prusament.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-materials)

In particular, PETG and PC (usually holding well against many agents) are said to "Resists poorly. Significant swelling and change in weight of the test sample (4-5% change in weight or dimensions) occurs with prolonged exposure of the polymer.".

On the other hand, with PP and PA you can have "Resists very well. Polymer does not melt, absorb substance, or swell during a week’s immersion (less than 1% change in weight and dimensions)."

PA can be bought easily and it costs half as much as PP so you may want to try PA first.


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### Answer by username_2 on 2024-05-11. Score: 2

Not the easiest filament to print, but nylon is a contender. According to [CP Lab Safety web site](https://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chemical-compatibility-chart/), nylon rates A-Excellent in resistance to acetone.

If you require the components to be glued together, it's important to note that nylon is also quite resistant to most adhesives.

Nylon requires that it be run through a dehydrator/filament dryer prior to use and if the print duration is in excess of an hour, to feed the printer with a dry-box, as the material is quite hygroscopic which will degrade the print.

Nylon is easily found in "natural" filament color, covering that aspect of your question.

My acetone smoothing chamber used the grid from the door of a microwave oven as the base for the parts, with a set of wires running upward to a hook. I can preheat the cookie jar with a double boiler made of a frying pan until the acetone condenses on the sides of the jar as high as the expected parts. Open the top, lower the rig for 30 seconds and the job is done.

Hot acetone works that fast but should be done outside for safety reasons. Have a set of tongs handy to retrieve any parts that fall free of the lifting rig, as hot acetone burns the skin instantly, but doesn't seem to leave any lasting effects.

Summary, nylon is a good but challenging choice, metal may be easier.

> **Comments:**
> **username_3**: IME, nylon either needs an enclosed and heated printer or an uncomfortably warm room. A hack I've found useful is to print a raft, pause the printing, and to stick it down with kaptan tape (if your fingers can't cope with smoothing it onto the hotbed, then find another occupation :-)  

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