<p>According to <a href="https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Anycubic</a> this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/WSL8p.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/WSL8p.png" alt="E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega exploded view" /></a>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/cuLc1.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cuLc1.png" alt="E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega assembled view" /></a></p>
<p>The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for &quot;E3D nozzle&quot;. They are also available from <a href="https://e3d-online.com" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D directly</a>, the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the <a href="http://olssonruby.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Olsson Ruby</a>. These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.<sup>1)</sup></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/32U1im.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/32U1im.jpg" alt="E3D v5/v6 nozzle" /></a></p>
<p>The smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than <span class="math-container">$0.75 \times 0.25\text{ mm} = 0.19\text{ mm}$</span>.</p>
<p>As such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and <em>could</em> use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.</p>
<p>Just buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.</p>
<p><sup>1)</sup> - <em>The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block due to their shorter threaded area (<a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9913/8884">as explained here</a>): <br>
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/pl9G1s.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/pl9G1s.jpg" alt="MK8 nozzle variant 1" /></a><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/k3r8Vs.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/k3r8Vs.png" alt="MK8 nozzle variant 2" /></a></em></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T13:13:24.193Z
sidenote: the nozzle for the e3d v6 and e3d v5 are pretty much unchanged in outer dimensions. IIRC the biggest difference was a better workflow.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T13:30:37.970Z
Brass will wear out faster and clog more often. They should use a Swiss Micro stainless steel nozzle.
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T14:12:50.043Z
@user77232 that is material dependent. for high abrasive, you even would use an Olson Ruby.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T14:22:58.973Z
@user77232 Opposed to steel, brass conducts heat way more easily. I have had very few clogs in my brass nozzles, mostly self inflicted by too much temperature due to wrong filament choice in slicer. I've read that steel nozzles are more prone to clogging. I guess it depends on your experience.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T15:22:14.900Z
I meant that if he's going to be using a .2 nozzle then he should use steel. Decloging the nozzle tends to scratch the hole, which would wear it out faster.
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T17:39:20.903Z
According to a nozzle manufacturer: [Regarding Stainless Nozzles](https://www.filastruder.com/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6); These are not superior in performance to our brass nozzles, and will in fact give you ever so slightly lower printing speeds. These nozzles are exclusively for use with highly specialised materials that may corrode brass nozzles, or for applications where the tiny amount of lead present in the brass nozzles is not acceptable.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T07:56:20.183Z
2024-01-24T13:42:45.730Z
2024-01-24T13:42:45.730Z
0scar
<p>We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-14T13:28:31.967Z
Hi Donald, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it *is* rather terse, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-07-06T04:48:54.947Z
Technically any M6 thread will fit in the anycube.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-14T07:14:59.317Z
2019-05-14T07:14:59.317Z
Donald Duck
<p>I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1&nbsp;mm eyebrows.</p>

<p>Currently it has a 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.</p>

<p>If you have any advice, please let me know.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-13T14:14:03.863Z
correction of myself:  till today, I encountered 2 Chinesium types that differ from which wrench they belong to (a size 7 or 8): to help differentiating, I put the differentiation into a [related question.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9912/what-is-the-functional-difference-between-an-e3d-style-nozzle-and-m6-chinesium-n/9913#9913)
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-12T18:05:48.200Z
Can you remove your 0.4 nozzle and post a photo of it? I would assume that any similar, compatible, nozzle with the *same fitting* would do, just use one with a smaller hole. You may need to change some print parameters, i.e. your print speed, but I'm not entirely sure about that.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-13T08:01:51.240Z
There are 3 large styles floating around, differentiated mainly from the fitting: **M7** with Teflon liner into the nozzle, M6 with a snub nose (**e3d-style**) and M6 with long body and nozzle (**"chinesium"**)
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-18T15:33:15.407Z
Anycubic looks like a legitimate manufacturer, with a customer support department.  Call or email them and ask about smaller diameter alternative nozzles.  They may have nozzles to sell you, or they may give you the specs you need to buy a third party compatible nozzle.  With the specs and @Trish's info, you can probably make a compatible choice.
cmm
<nozzle><anycubic-i3-mega>
Which nozzle should I buy for Anycubic i3 Mega?
icraft
# Which nozzle should I buy for Anycubic i3 Mega?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-04-12)

I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1 mm eyebrows.

Currently it has a 0.4 mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.

If you have any advice, please let me know.

**Tags:** nozzle, anycubic-i3-mega
> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Can you remove your 0.4 nozzle and post a photo of it? I would assume that any similar, compatible, nozzle with the *same fitting* would do, just use one with a smaller hole. You may need to change some print parameters, i.e. your print speed, but I'm not entirely sure about that.  
> **username_1**: There are 3 large styles floating around, differentiated mainly from the fitting: **M7** with Teflon liner into the nozzle, M6 with a snub nose (**e3d-style**) and M6 with long body and nozzle (**"chinesium"**)  
> **username_3**: Anycubic looks like a legitimate manufacturer, with a customer support department.  Call or email them and ask about smaller diameter alternative nozzles.  They may have nozzles to sell you, or they may give you the specs you need to buy a third party compatible nozzle.  With the specs and @Trish's info, you can probably make a compatible choice.  
> **username_1**: correction of myself:  till today, I encountered 2 Chinesium types that differ from which wrench they belong to (a size 7 or 8): to help differentiating, I put the differentiation into a [related question.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9912/what-is-the-functional-difference-between-an-e3d-style-nozzle-and-m6-chinesium-n/9913#9913)  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-05-13. Score: 5

According to [Anycubic](https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18) this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:

[![E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega exploded view](https://i.sstatic.net/WSL8p.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/WSL8p.png)
[![E3D v5 of Anycubic Mega assembled view](https://i.sstatic.net/cuLc1.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/cuLc1.png)

The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for "E3D nozzle". They are also available from [E3D directly](https://e3d-online.com), the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the [Olsson Ruby](http://olssonruby.com/). These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.1)

[![E3D v5/v6 nozzle](https://i.sstatic.net/32U1im.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/32U1im.jpg)

The smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than $0.75 \times 0.25\text{ mm} = 0.19\text{ mm}$.

As such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and *could* use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.

Just buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.

1) - *The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block due to their shorter threaded area ([as explained here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9913/8884)):   
[![MK8 nozzle variant 1](https://i.sstatic.net/pl9G1s.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/pl9G1s.jpg)[![MK8 nozzle variant 2](https://i.sstatic.net/k3r8Vs.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/k3r8Vs.png)*

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: sidenote: the nozzle for the e3d v6 and e3d v5 are pretty much unchanged in outer dimensions. IIRC the biggest difference was a better workflow.  
> **username_5**: Brass will wear out faster and clog more often. They should use a Swiss Micro stainless steel nozzle.  
> **username_1**: @user77232 that is material dependent. for high abrasive, you even would use an Olson Ruby.  
> **username_4**: @user77232 Opposed to steel, brass conducts heat way more easily. I have had very few clogs in my brass nozzles, mostly self inflicted by too much temperature due to wrong filament choice in slicer. I've read that steel nozzles are more prone to clogging. I guess it depends on your experience.  
> **username_5**: I meant that if he's going to be using a .2 nozzle then he should use steel. Decloging the nozzle tends to scratch the hole, which would wear it out faster.  
> **username_4**: According to a nozzle manufacturer: [Regarding Stainless Nozzles](https://www.filastruder.com/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6); These are not superior in performance to our brass nozzles, and will in fact give you ever so slightly lower printing speeds. These nozzles are exclusively for use with highly specialised materials that may corrode brass nozzles, or for applications where the tiny amount of lead present in the brass nozzles is not acceptable.  

---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-05-14. Score: 0

We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Hi Donald, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it *is* rather terse, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)  
> **username_7**: Technically any M6 thread will fit in the anycube.  

---

