<p>Thermistors and thermocouples are different animals.  A thermistor changes resistance based on the temperature at the junction.  A thermocouple generates a small voltage (mV range) which varies depending on the temperature.  Higher temps typically use a thermocouple because thermistors tend to not be as accurate at those elevated temps.</p>

<p>My printer uses thermocouples, and it appears that yours does also.  I'm not sure what you mean by "crushed", but you can check to see if the wires are shorted to the heat block or to each other.  It is unlikely that you've damaged the input to the control board by doing this.  Shorted wires can give the same readings as no thermocouple attached.  You can also get errors induced through ground isolation if wires are shorted to the heating block.</p>

<p>Changing this out for a different system with a different input amplifier sounds like a nightmare in the making, and I'd only attempt it if I could not fix the existing problem or find a direct replacement.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-19T23:54:31.130Z
2017-01-19T23:54:31.130Z
Randy Steck
<p>I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw. </p>

<p>Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged. </p>

<p>I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine.</p>

<p>I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)?  The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/AGhNy.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/AGhNy.png" alt="Thermocouple diagram"></a></p>

<p>I plan to re-route it in the firmware to use A15 instead as I believe I must have blown the analogue input, right?</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1S6IK.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1S6IK.jpg" alt="Thermocouple photograph"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-11-24T19:23:11.300Z
I didn't understand how you conclude that the analogue input is blown. I think I'm missing something in your last paragraph too, it feels like you already answered your own question - or is the question simply about insulation of the probe?
Sean Houlihane
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-11-24T20:22:17.790Z
Well i wanted to ask about the insulation. How can i use the thermocouple I already have? Since other ones arent exposed Also if ive possibly shorted the analogue pin out with the pilars. I suapect i have.
Ageis
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-11-24T20:44:39.383Z
Thermostat and thermo couple are electrically different.
Sean Houlihane
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-11-24T20:53:49.387Z
so you telling me the second image is a thermostat? please do explain the difference? It was called a thermocouple so I assumed it was a thermocouple but with a metal piece crimped on. So I already have a thermocouple similar to the first image. can I just stick in the hotend then wire it up to the max6675 then connect it to main board and  configure marlin to use it
Ageis
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-01-26T14:12:16.383Z
@SeanHoulihane I don't know about thermistors, but thermocouples typically have an asymmetric two-bladed plug like the one shown above. At least all of the pre-made ones that I've ever used did and when I've fabricated my own, I've always connected them using those kind of plugs.
DLS3141
<printer-building>
Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well
Ageis
# Can you replace broken 100k thermistor with thermocouple - potentially blown analogue input as well

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-11-24)

I have bought myself an I3 3D printer - it comes with a thermistor which is then placed into a hole in the hotend and held in place by a grub screw.

Sadly due to my lack of care I managed to crush the wires with a pair of vice pliers whilst trying to remove the nozzle as it was clogged.

I have since unblocked it but now every time I turn on the 3D printer instead of giving a minimum temperature error it says it's 260°C - even if it's left off all night and I unplugged the thermistor. Otherwise, it seems to be fine.

I want to know can I just replace it with a thermocouple and a Maxim amplifier board (the one that Marlin supports, I forget the name)? The thermocouple I have in mind is one that has the junction exposed (see image below), does this matter?

[![Thermocouple diagram](https://i.sstatic.net/AGhNy.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/AGhNy.png)

I plan to re-route it in the firmware to use A15 instead as I believe I must have blown the analogue input, right?

[![Thermocouple photograph](https://i.sstatic.net/1S6IK.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/1S6IK.jpg)

**Tags:** printer-building
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I didn't understand how you conclude that the analogue input is blown. I think I'm missing something in your last paragraph too, it feels like you already answered your own question - or is the question simply about insulation of the probe?  
> **username_0**: Well i wanted to ask about the insulation. How can i use the thermocouple I already have? Since other ones arent exposed Also if ive possibly shorted the analogue pin out with the pilars. I suapect i have.  
> **username_1**: Thermostat and thermo couple are electrically different.  
> **username_0**: so you telling me the second image is a thermostat? please do explain the difference? It was called a thermocouple so I assumed it was a thermocouple but with a metal piece crimped on. So I already have a thermocouple similar to the first image. can I just stick in the hotend then wire it up to the max6675 then connect it to main board and  configure marlin to use it  
> **username_2**: @SeanHoulihane I don't know about thermistors, but thermocouples typically have an asymmetric two-bladed plug like the one shown above. At least all of the pre-made ones that I've ever used did and when I've fabricated my own, I've always connected them using those kind of plugs.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-01-19. Score: 3

Thermistors and thermocouples are different animals. A thermistor changes resistance based on the temperature at the junction. A thermocouple generates a small voltage (mV range) which varies depending on the temperature. Higher temps typically use a thermocouple because thermistors tend to not be as accurate at those elevated temps.

My printer uses thermocouples, and it appears that yours does also. I'm not sure what you mean by "crushed", but you can check to see if the wires are shorted to the heat block or to each other. It is unlikely that you've damaged the input to the control board by doing this. Shorted wires can give the same readings as no thermocouple attached. You can also get errors induced through ground isolation if wires are shorted to the heating block.

Changing this out for a different system with a different input amplifier sounds like a nightmare in the making, and I'd only attempt it if I could not fix the existing problem or find a direct replacement.


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