<p>I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/XD2W8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/XD2W8.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-15T21:06:19.343Z
2017-11-15T21:06:19.343Z
WDR
<p>The Prusha I3 design uses two rods to guide the Y axis, which moves along the rods on linear bearings.  If the rods are not strictly planar, there will be movement of the bed as it moves to and fro.  You would not be able to correct this with the leveling screws.</p>

<p>Be sure that the rods are planar, and that there is no torque on the bed from uneven rods.  Even if the bed doesn't flex, the frame may flex if the rods are not planar.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T05:08:55.343Z
But how can I find the problem? I did open the bed and the Y-Axis belt, it seems it moves smoothly by hand and I can't detect any problem by eyes!
WDR
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T05:13:50.510Z
I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand.
WDR
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T22:23:25.037Z
The Y-xis bearing-rods must be planar.  You can evaluate that in several ways.  The easiest might be to remove the bed completely to fully expose the rods.  Lay a known-flat material on the bearing-rods, and verify that it lies completely flat against the rods, touching evenly along the length of both rods.  If there is any gap, or the object rocks, then the bearing-rods are not planar, and that should be fixed, such as by adjusting the threaded rods that support the bearing-rod ends.
cmm
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T22:24:36.407Z
What is the carriage made of?  Is that completely flat?
cmm
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T22:25:22.217Z
When the carriage moves forward and back, watch the bearing rods and the rest of the mechanism carefully.  There should be absolutely NO movement, other than the motion of the carriage.
cmm
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T03:02:40.637Z
2017-11-13T03:02:40.637Z
cmm
<p>How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)?
I had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs.
I had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm.</p>

<p>Keep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step.</p>

<p>If you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask!
Cheers </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T17:58:36.803Z
Hello, and thanks for help. If it isn't hard for you, may you take some photos from what you did? or post the photo of the part you bought?
WDR
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T18:00:01.070Z
I did measure the corners by simple ruler
WDR
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-14T07:33:04.993Z
Yes @user145959, Right now i am at work, as soon as I get in my home i will send some photos of how i did my calibration!
Kaleb Iahn Reginaldo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T16:45:12.337Z
2017-11-13T16:45:12.337Z
Kaleb Iahn Reginaldo
<p>I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left.</p>

<p>I don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat! </p>

<p>EDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand. 
I hope you can understand me and help me too!</p>

<p>EDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat). </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/sGjix.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/sGjix.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>How can I fix this?</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T14:19:29.473Z
If the bed base is physically bent, then you are best off replacing it.  Trying to bend or press it flat is unlikely to work.
Carl Witthoft
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-11-13T18:03:17.333Z
@CarlWitthoft: I don't know really if its bent. because it's ok when I see by eyes. but when I measure the height of corners, one of them is about 2mm lower.
WDR
<heated-bed>
Strange leveling problem by PrusaI3
WDR
# Strange leveling problem by PrusaI3

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-11-12)

I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left.

I don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat!

EDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand.
I hope you can understand me and help me too!

EDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat).

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/sGjix.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/sGjix.jpg)

How can I fix this?

**Tags:** heated-bed
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: If the bed base is physically bent, then you are best off replacing it.  Trying to bend or press it flat is unlikely to work.  
> **username_0**: @CarlWitthoft: I don't know really if its bent. because it's ok when I see by eyes. but when I measure the height of corners, one of them is about 2mm lower.  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2017-11-15. Score: 0 | Accepted answer

I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!:

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/XD2W8.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/XD2W8.jpg)


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2017-11-13. Score: 1

The Prusha I3 design uses two rods to guide the Y axis, which moves along the rods on linear bearings. If the rods are not strictly planar, there will be movement of the bed as it moves to and fro. You would not be able to correct this with the leveling screws.

Be sure that the rods are planar, and that there is no torque on the bed from uneven rods. Even if the bed doesn't flex, the frame may flex if the rods are not planar.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: But how can I find the problem? I did open the bed and the Y-Axis belt, it seems it moves smoothly by hand and I can't detect any problem by eyes!  
> **username_0**: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand.  
> **username_2**: The Y-xis bearing-rods must be planar.  You can evaluate that in several ways.  The easiest might be to remove the bed completely to fully expose the rods.  Lay a known-flat material on the bearing-rods, and verify that it lies completely flat against the rods, touching evenly along the length of both rods.  If there is any gap, or the object rocks, then the bearing-rods are not planar, and that should be fixed, such as by adjusting the threaded rods that support the bearing-rod ends.  
> **username_2**: What is the carriage made of?  Is that completely flat?  
> **username_2**: When the carriage moves forward and back, watch the bearing rods and the rest of the mechanism carefully.  There should be absolutely NO movement, other than the motion of the carriage.  

---

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-11-13. Score: 1

How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)?
I had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs.
I had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm.

Keep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step.

If you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask!
Cheers

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Hello, and thanks for help. If it isn't hard for you, may you take some photos from what you did? or post the photo of the part you bought?  
> **username_0**: I did measure the corners by simple ruler  
> **username_3**: Yes @user145959, Right now i am at work, as soon as I get in my home i will send some photos of how i did my calibration!  

---

