<p>The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the side. Some hotend assembly types allow that, this screw is then used to fixate the orientation of the brass block. This type of hotend is not very common, it is a MK10.</p>

<p>Without the brass block it looks like this:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/oZsAP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/oZsAP.jpg" alt="MK10 cold end and heat break"></a></p>

<p>Maybe this clears it up how the block is attached in between the heat break and the nozzle; it is positioned where you see the threads. The screw to position the brass heater block and the heat break is clearly visible.</p>

<p>Don't try to wobble the brass block any further as you will wear out the threads, there appears to be a lot of play already.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-01T17:34:33.463Z
Cheers, I've added a photo of the disassembled block.  You're saying that the looseness is definitely a bad thing though and I need to find out what's loose and tighten that?
BanksySan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-01T17:34:59.653Z
It just clicked that the hole is where the filament passes and is heated.
BanksySan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-01T17:37:38.897Z
@BanksySan I've updated the answer, it should be clear now. Just  tighten the heat break to the brass block and position the heat break in the cold end plate.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-03-02T10:07:44.890Z
Monoprice or ultimaker Mk10?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-01T17:26:00.313Z
2019-02-01T19:34:36.873Z
2019-02-01T19:34:36.873Z
0scar
<p>I recently changes the nozzle on my <a href="https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Monoprice Maker Ultimate</a> 3D printer (first time).  The brass block that the nozzle screws into is free to rotate around an is <em>wobbly</em>.</p>

<p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/C3GbM.jpg" alt="Brass block"></p>

<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/CURJxr5.mp4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Loose block video</a></p>

<p>I can't see any obvious nut/screw that's come loose though.  It could well be that it's not important, but it was definitely tightly attached before it twisted when I removed the nozzle.</p>

<hr>

<p>I've taken the assembly apart:</p>

<p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zt2P7.jpg" alt="Silver bit"></p>

<hr>

<p>Silver bit removed:</p>

<p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/5kaCi.jpg" alt="Silver bit"></p>

<hotend><monoprice-maker-ultimate>
Loose brass heater block
BanksySan
# Loose brass heater block

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-02-01)

I recently changes the nozzle on my [Monoprice Maker Ultimate](https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk) 3D printer (first time). The brass block that the nozzle screws into is free to rotate around an is *wobbly*.

![Brass block](https://i.sstatic.net/C3GbM.jpg)

[Loose block video](https://i.imgur.com/CURJxr5.mp4)

I can't see any obvious nut/screw that's come loose though. It could well be that it's not important, but it was definitely tightly attached before it twisted when I removed the nozzle.

---

I've taken the assembly apart:

![Silver bit](https://i.sstatic.net/zt2P7.jpg)

---

Silver bit removed:

![Silver bit](https://i.sstatic.net/5kaCi.jpg)

**Tags:** hotend, monoprice-maker-ultimate

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2019-02-01. Score: 2 | Accepted answer

The silver looking cylindrical nut (with the flat faces) between the brass block and the black metal plate is the heat break of the assembly. The brass block should be tightly fit to this heat break. You could turn the brass block to get a close fit again. The heat break itself can move in the upper part, black plate, the cold end by the set screw on the side. Some hotend assembly types allow that, this screw is then used to fixate the orientation of the brass block. This type of hotend is not very common, it is a MK10.

Without the brass block it looks like this:

[![MK10 cold end and heat break](https://i.sstatic.net/oZsAP.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/oZsAP.jpg)

Maybe this clears it up how the block is attached in between the heat break and the nozzle; it is positioned where you see the threads. The screw to position the brass heater block and the heat break is clearly visible.

Don't try to wobble the brass block any further as you will wear out the threads, there appears to be a lot of play already.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Cheers, I've added a photo of the disassembled block.  You're saying that the looseness is definitely a bad thing though and I need to find out what's loose and tighten that?  
> **username_0**: It just clicked that the hole is where the filament passes and is heated.  
> **username_1**: @BanksySan I've updated the answer, it should be clear now. Just  tighten the heat break to the brass block and position the heat break in the cold end plate.  
> **username_2**: Monoprice or ultimaker Mk10?  

---

