<p>Instead of super glue, you could try a two part epoxy resin (any brand should do, i.e. <a href="https://www.bison.nl/nl/product.1259" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bison Kombi Power</a> or <a href="https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube" rel="nofollow noreferrer">JB Weld</a>). This may take longer to dry, than the super glue, but <em>should</em> be much stronger, and deal with torsion forces better<sup>1</sup>.</p>

<p>Or, you could try red (not blue) Loctite. However, the epoxy resin would probably be stronger.</p>

<hr>

<p><sup>1</sup> This is admittedly an opinionated reference, but from <a href="https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/epoxy-or-super-glue-which-is-stronger.1201543/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Epoxy or super glue, which is stronger?</a></p>

<blockquote>
  <p>depending on the surface, [epoxy] can be superior. Epoxies are generally a must if the surfaces are porous</p>
</blockquote>

<p>and </p>

<blockquote>
  <p>Epoxy is superior to CA. CA is nearly always misapplied. Epoxy has a higher tolerance to misapplication thus is much less likely to fail under such circumstances. I've used Belzona epoxies to repair parts on various aircraft and spacecraft where welding would be inappropriate! Belzona epoxy is without a doubt the best there is. Too bad you cannot purchase it in Home Depot.</p>
  
  <p>The closest thing you can get though is PC-7.</p>
</blockquote>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-17T07:36:29.343Z
2017-05-17T08:08:25.520Z
2017-05-17T08:08:25.520Z
Greenonline
<p>Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.</p>

<p>EDIT: Try a bit of acetone, to allow the ABS near the nut to reflow.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-16T14:47:29.360Z
Yeah! I know that trick. I do it before I glue the nut inside. But it goes out anyway :/
LoomyBear
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-16T14:49:28.440Z
Oh. Have you tried a little bit of acetone instead of glue? To melt the ABS?
Davo
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-16T14:46:10.943Z
2017-05-16T14:58:44.933Z
2017-05-16T14:58:44.933Z
Davo
<p>One good option would be to - if possible - change the design, so the nut is inserted from the opposite side, so that the bolt just pulls it in tighter rather than pulling it out.</p>

<p>Another option would be to instead of using a nut, use a <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/fasteners-for-3d-printing" rel="noreferrer">brass threaded insert</a>. These are like nuts, except they have ridges that are specifically aimed at locking it inside the plastic.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-16T15:26:22.870Z
huh! that's smart!! ))
LoomyBear
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-06-04T02:54:41.490Z
There are a larger variety of [threaded inserts](https://www.grainger.com/category/thread-insert/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8nr) - not just brass.  Just note that for maximum hold, make sure that you insert them from the opposite side from where you will insert the screw,  If you are going to press them in then I would recommend the ultrasonic ones.
markshancock
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-16T15:10:05.483Z
2017-05-16T15:10:05.483Z
Tom van der Zanden
<p>I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.</p>

<p>Right now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.</p>

<p>Problem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?</p>

<3d-models><filament><metal-parts>
Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print
LoomyBear
# Best practices to fix a threaded nut inside a print

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-05-16)

I'm trying to connect two 3D printed parts (ABS) together with a threaded connection. Thus, I need to fix a threaded metal nut (M4) inside a corresponding slot which I've implemented in the design.

Right now I apply a conventional super glue on the nut and press it inside the print, wait for a couple of hours and then use it.

Problem is that the nut keeps falling out of the print when I apply a more tension to the bolt. Can you please advise me on how to make this method work. Maybe some of you aware of special glue for that purposes?

**Tags:** 3d-models, filament, metal-parts

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-05-16. Score: 8 | Accepted answer

One good option would be to - if possible - change the design, so the nut is inserted from the opposite side, so that the bolt just pulls it in tighter rather than pulling it out.

Another option would be to instead of using a nut, use a [brass threaded insert](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/fasteners-for-3d-printing). These are like nuts, except they have ridges that are specifically aimed at locking it inside the plastic.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: huh! that's smart!! ))  
> **username_4**: There are a larger variety of [threaded inserts](https://www.grainger.com/category/thread-insert/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8nr) - not just brass.  Just note that for maximum hold, make sure that you insert them from the opposite side from where you will insert the screw,  If you are going to press them in then I would recommend the ultrasonic ones.  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-05-17. Score: 3

Instead of super glue, you could try a two part epoxy resin (any brand should do, i.e. [Bison Kombi Power](https://www.bison.nl/nl/product.1259) or [JB Weld](https://www.jbweld.com/products/j-b-weld-twin-tube)). This may take longer to dry, than the super glue, but *should* be much stronger, and deal with torsion forces better1.

Or, you could try red (not blue) Loctite. However, the epoxy resin would probably be stronger.

---

1 This is admittedly an opinionated reference, but from [Epoxy or super glue, which is stronger?](https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/epoxy-or-super-glue-which-is-stronger.1201543/)

> depending on the surface, [epoxy] can be superior. Epoxies are generally a must if the surfaces are porous

and

> Epoxy is superior to CA. CA is nearly always misapplied. Epoxy has a higher tolerance to misapplication thus is much less likely to fail under such circumstances. I've used Belzona epoxies to repair parts on various aircraft and spacecraft where welding would be inappropriate! Belzona epoxy is without a doubt the best there is. Too bad you cannot purchase it in Home Depot.
>
> The closest thing you can get though is PC-7.


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2017-05-16. Score: 2

Just heat the nut with a soldering iron to seat it into place (after the print). I've done this many times myself.

EDIT: Try a bit of acetone, to allow the ABS near the nut to reflow.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Yeah! I know that trick. I do it before I glue the nut inside. But it goes out anyway :/  
> **username_2**: Oh. Have you tried a little bit of acetone instead of glue? To melt the ABS?  

---

