<p>If the brim is firmly connected to the part and sufficiently large, you could "duck tape" the brim to the bed after a few hours; by then you should have enough space/clearance to work with. </p>

<p>But maybe the best advice is to invest in a heated bed platform, or use the heated bed if you only did not enable it. Heating the filament to the point close to the glass transition temperature ensures that the printed filament stays ductile. Once filament cools down, it shrinks and cannot grip on the to build plate indefinitely.</p>

<p>My Ultimaker 3 uses a heated build platform that can virtually make every filament stick to it as long as you prepare the bed correctly. On glass I prefer to use a specifically designed printing spray called 3DLAC; that, and a little heat (depending on the filament you print; i.e. the glass transition temperature) make that I never have had any problems with getting filament to stick to the build plate. I'm even able to get the slippery filament <a href="/q/6298">POM to stick to the heated bed</a>.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-10T13:25:40.010Z
I agree with trying to tape down the brim.   Just warning that if there's extreme curling or lifting of the bottom layers the tape may not hold (I know from sad experience)
Carl Witthoft
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-10T09:45:52.797Z
2019-04-10T09:45:52.797Z
0scar
<p>I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems. 
If the duration of printing is greater than this time, the part would get shifted from its initial position. It looks like the part is not sticking to the bed anymore. </p>

<p>I was first using classic glue sticks and this problem occurred. Next, I tried with different masking tapes but the problem remains the same. The glass bed is <strong>not</strong> heated. The first layer and the following are actually pretty clean. I use brim. I reduced the printing speed to 20 mm/s on purpose to see if it would reduce the probability of this phenomenon to occur. However, this is not the case.</p>

<p>Do you have any experience concerning this problem, ideas, suggestions?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-10T13:24:24.790Z
Do you see any lifting or "peeling" of the work, especially at the corners of the bottom layers, where it's starting to leave the bed?
Carl Witthoft
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-10T14:04:12.883Z
Start a square vase mode tower. After the first few layers take a black marker and put some "witness" marks from the bed to the part in a colour that can be easily seen. After it fails check if the line is now broken.
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-10T21:48:06.997Z
If you are having trouble with adhesion, your brim will warp up off the bed.  Are you sure you aren't getting power surges or something occurring on your computer.? I've seen this with a power surge.
Perry Webb
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-12T20:27:06.490Z
For long prints on a RepRap, I print from an SD card to prevent events on the computer from interfering with the print, especially when the computer is unattended.  Don't know if you have that option.
Perry Webb
<print-quality><pla><heated-bed><adhesion>
Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2
3dprintingQuestion
# Long prints shifting with Ultimaker 2

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-04-10)

I am currently using Ultimaker 2+ to print some big parts with PLA. As long as the printing lasts for less than 15 hours (that's what I observed by experience, approximately), there are no problems.
If the duration of printing is greater than this time, the part would get shifted from its initial position. It looks like the part is not sticking to the bed anymore.

I was first using classic glue sticks and this problem occurred. Next, I tried with different masking tapes but the problem remains the same. The glass bed is **not** heated. The first layer and the following are actually pretty clean. I use brim. I reduced the printing speed to 20 mm/s on purpose to see if it would reduce the probability of this phenomenon to occur. However, this is not the case.

Do you have any experience concerning this problem, ideas, suggestions?

**Tags:** print-quality, pla, heated-bed, adhesion
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Do you see any lifting or "peeling" of the work, especially at the corners of the bottom layers, where it's starting to leave the bed?  
> **username_2**: Start a square vase mode tower. After the first few layers take a black marker and put some "witness" marks from the bed to the part in a colour that can be easily seen. After it fails check if the line is now broken.  
> **username_3**: If you are having trouble with adhesion, your brim will warp up off the bed.  Are you sure you aren't getting power surges or something occurring on your computer.? I've seen this with a power surge.  
> **username_3**: For long prints on a RepRap, I print from an SD card to prevent events on the computer from interfering with the print, especially when the computer is unattended.  Don't know if you have that option.  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-04-10. Score: 3

If the brim is firmly connected to the part and sufficiently large, you could "duck tape" the brim to the bed after a few hours; by then you should have enough space/clearance to work with.

But maybe the best advice is to invest in a heated bed platform, or use the heated bed if you only did not enable it. Heating the filament to the point close to the glass transition temperature ensures that the printed filament stays ductile. Once filament cools down, it shrinks and cannot grip on the to build plate indefinitely.

My Ultimaker 3 uses a heated build platform that can virtually make every filament stick to it as long as you prepare the bed correctly. On glass I prefer to use a specifically designed printing spray called 3DLAC; that, and a little heat (depending on the filament you print; i.e. the glass transition temperature) make that I never have had any problems with getting filament to stick to the build plate. I'm even able to get the slippery filament [POM to stick to the heated bed](/q/6298).

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I agree with trying to tape down the brim.   Just warning that if there's extreme curling or lifting of the bottom layers the tape may not hold (I know from sad experience)  

---

