<p>ABS is a plastic type that has a relatively large shrinkage when cooling down compared to other filaments;e.g. much more than the popular replacement PETG (which prints similarly as PLA but has properties like ABS).</p>

<p>As of this shrinkage, it is the operator of the slicer to produce an environment to properly print ABS. This not only implies that correct settings for the slicer itself need to be chosen (depending on the brand: high hotend temperature; about 220-240&nbsp;&deg;C, high heated bed temperature; 90-110&nbsp;&deg;C, using a large brim), but also that the printing environment is optimally setup to allow printing successful prints. You should think of adhesion to the build plate, modifying parts to include so-called Mickey Mouse ears and an enclosed printer space to regulate the temperature. ABS doesn't like temperature changes as that will result in split layers. This is why ABS is difficult to print for most people, it is best not to choose this when you just starting printing, nowadays much better alternatives are available called Co-polymers like PETG.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-04T06:31:08.953Z
2019-05-04T06:31:08.953Z
0scar
<p>Does anyone know of a good slicer profile (i.e., an <code>.ini</code> file.) for Slic3r for printing ABS for a Prusa i3 MK3S printer? </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-04T02:12:01.043Z
Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! I'm not sure I understand your question? What's wrong with using Slic3r as the slicer for ABS? The slicer is fairly filament agnostic, meaning, it doesn't care. You as the user setup the parameters for the filament when you slice. The slicer then creates the g-code which your printer can interpret. There are presets within the slicer which can be used, then tweaked if needed for your specific needs. Again, this is filament agnostic to the slicer. Can you clarify what you actually want?
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-05-04T06:06:56.300Z
So you are after a profile for Slic3r. A profile that works for one printer may not work for another printer. Basically, as such, this is not a good question for SE. Every slicer is able to produce printer files for ABS, it is usually the printers that have difficulty to print ABS properly because of its high tendency to warp because of the large shrinkage. If you rewrote the question to explain what your problems with printing are, people could answer you what slicer settings you could change to produce better prints. ABS has a good alternative that can be printed as PLA; look into PETG.
0scar
<slicing><slic3r><abs>
Good profile for slicing ABS in Slic3r?
foo bar
# Good profile for slicing ABS in Slic3r?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-05-04)

Does anyone know of a good slicer profile (i.e., an `.ini` file.) for Slic3r for printing ABS for a Prusa i3 MK3S printer?

**Tags:** slicing, slic3r, abs
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! I'm not sure I understand your question? What's wrong with using Slic3r as the slicer for ABS? The slicer is fairly filament agnostic, meaning, it doesn't care. You as the user setup the parameters for the filament when you slice. The slicer then creates the g-code which your printer can interpret. There are presets within the slicer which can be used, then tweaked if needed for your specific needs. Again, this is filament agnostic to the slicer. Can you clarify what you actually want?  
> **username_2**: So you are after a profile for Slic3r. A profile that works for one printer may not work for another printer. Basically, as such, this is not a good question for SE. Every slicer is able to produce printer files for ABS, it is usually the printers that have difficulty to print ABS properly because of its high tendency to warp because of the large shrinkage. If you rewrote the question to explain what your problems with printing are, people could answer you what slicer settings you could change to produce better prints. ABS has a good alternative that can be printed as PLA; look into PETG.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2019-05-04. Score: 2

ABS is a plastic type that has a relatively large shrinkage when cooling down compared to other filaments;e.g. much more than the popular replacement PETG (which prints similarly as PLA but has properties like ABS).

As of this shrinkage, it is the operator of the slicer to produce an environment to properly print ABS. This not only implies that correct settings for the slicer itself need to be chosen (depending on the brand: high hotend temperature; about 220-240 °C, high heated bed temperature; 90-110 °C, using a large brim), but also that the printing environment is optimally setup to allow printing successful prints. You should think of adhesion to the build plate, modifying parts to include so-called Mickey Mouse ears and an enclosed printer space to regulate the temperature. ABS doesn't like temperature changes as that will result in split layers. This is why ABS is difficult to print for most people, it is best not to choose this when you just starting printing, nowadays much better alternatives are available called Co-polymers like PETG.


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