<p>If you are indeed using the base profile that tops out at 250 mm/s and an 0.8 mm nozzle, it's probably insufficient cooling combined with print speeds that are too high. You'll need more cooling than 10 % even at lower speeds with an 0.8 mm nozzle. The large extrusions have more thermal mass and tend to cool slowly. As to why it specifically makes those &quot;loops&quot; instead of just sagging, the filament is probably not completely melted which will cause it to curl all over the place as it comes out of the nozzle. Slow down the prints to 15-20 mm³/s at the fastest and increase cooling.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-20T04:24:15.190Z
2024-03-22T14:01:08.880Z
2024-03-22T14:01:08.880Z
TreeBarkEater
<p>Several different methods can be tried to solve this problem;</p>
<p>1- The type of filament you use (PETG) is a material that holds more moisture. You should definitely check your fan settings according to the region you live in.</p>
<p>2- I think you may have also reduced the retraction speed in the formation of the filament pile in the image. You are probably doing it to get a more uniform layer with a slow retraction, but the filament melting in the nozzle may have become leakage and formed piles at certain points.</p>
<p>But here especially because problems occur in the beginning and end layers;</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/3qPXQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/3qPXQ.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>3- Instead of reducing the retraction speed, you can better control the moisture content of the filament by changing the temperature between the layers. Higher temperature can vaporize the moisture in the filament and thus improve print quality.</p>
<p>Especially since the starting layer will cling to the ground, and act as a support structure, it can create leakage due to excessive moisture.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-22T20:03:19.057Z
I don't think the answer I wrote was wrong. Why did I get a negative vote? You should share with me the part you think I wrote wrong.
Büşra Fatma SUSUZ
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-23T10:27:17.647Z
It could be because the question states that moisture is not a problem `I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly`, and your points 1 and 3 indicate that the problem is moisture. I also have my doubts on your answer. Furthermore, point 2 is a guess, the OP doesn't say anything about changing the retraction. I refrained from voting, but can imagine the answer received a downvote, no pun intended.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-22T07:21:49.423Z
2024-03-22T07:27:21.767Z
2024-03-22T07:27:21.767Z
Büşra Fatma SUSUZ
<p>I had fairly good prints until recently. Now, every print has the loops and such below. Inland PETG and Bambu PETG have the same issues. I know it is going to be some small, simple setting, but after a spool of failed prints, I'm starting to lose my mind. It is a P1P Bambu printer with a 0.8 mm nozzle and either Inland PETG or Bambu PETG. I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly (I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, meaning humidity). I've tried print temps from 235-255 °C and heated bed from 75-80 °C (Textured plate)).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/J4Gv8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/J4Gv8.jpg" alt="Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded" title="Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/kajyE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/kajyE.jpg" alt="Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top" title="Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/JFopW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/JFopW.jpg" alt="Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down" title="Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/NmDSL.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/NmDSL.jpg" alt="Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion" title="Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion" /></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-17T02:41:43.133Z
It may help to know some other print settings such as print speed, fan speed, etc.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-17T20:06:51.563Z
Base print speeds and fan speeds for P1P printers. 250mm/s print and 10% fan iirc
SliderBlackrose
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-17T20:08:14.890Z
Please [edit] your question so that if the comments ever get deleted all the relevant information is still there.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-17T20:46:35.683Z
That will be considered if and when I deem it needed. At this point, instead of critiquing my posting etiquette, you could answer the question or flag it if you feel that needed.
SliderBlackrose
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-17T21:13:52.533Z
I apologize for any misunderstanding. I was only trying to help in getting the most information for anyone who might be able to help. Since you do not find my comments useful, I will leave this post.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-03-22T22:05:36.423Z
It is better to [edit] your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.
Greenonline
<print-quality><troubleshooting><stringing><bambu-lab-p1p>
Bambu Labs P1P printing looping
SliderBlackrose
# Bambu Labs P1P printing looping

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-03-17)

I had fairly good prints until recently. Now, every print has the loops and such below. Inland PETG and Bambu PETG have the same issues. I know it is going to be some small, simple setting, but after a spool of failed prints, I'm starting to lose my mind. It is a P1P Bambu printer with a 0.8 mm nozzle and either Inland PETG or Bambu PETG. I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly (I live on the Texas Gulf Coast, meaning humidity). I've tried print temps from 235-255 °C and heated bed from 75-80 °C (Textured plate)).

[![Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded](https://i.sstatic.net/J4Gv8.jpg "Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded")](https://i.sstatic.net/J4Gv8.jpg "Photo of two identical models with layers not adhering or poorly extruded")

[![Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top](https://i.sstatic.net/kajyE.jpg "Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top")](https://i.sstatic.net/kajyE.jpg "Photo of one of the printed models with poorly extruded bottom and top")

[![Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down](https://i.sstatic.net/JFopW.jpg "Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down")](https://i.sstatic.net/JFopW.jpg "Photo of a temperature tower where the underside of every bridge is drooping down")

[![Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion](https://i.sstatic.net/NmDSL.jpg "Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion")](https://i.sstatic.net/NmDSL.jpg "Another photo of a temperature tower where the numbers on the side are not legible due to poor extrusion")

**Tags:** print-quality, troubleshooting, stringing, bambu-lab-p1p
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: It may help to know some other print settings such as print speed, fan speed, etc.  
> **username_0**: Base print speeds and fan speeds for P1P printers. 250mm/s print and 10% fan iirc  
> **username_1**: Please [edit] your question so that if the comments ever get deleted all the relevant information is still there.  
> **username_0**: That will be considered if and when I deem it needed. At this point, instead of critiquing my posting etiquette, you could answer the question or flag it if you feel that needed.  
> **username_1**: I apologize for any misunderstanding. I was only trying to help in getting the most information for anyone who might be able to help. Since you do not find my comments useful, I will leave this post.  
> **username_2**: It is better to [edit] your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2024-03-20. Score: 3

If you are indeed using the base profile that tops out at 250 mm/s and an 0.8 mm nozzle, it's probably insufficient cooling combined with print speeds that are too high. You'll need more cooling than 10 % even at lower speeds with an 0.8 mm nozzle. The large extrusions have more thermal mass and tend to cool slowly. As to why it specifically makes those "loops" instead of just sagging, the filament is probably not completely melted which will cause it to curl all over the place as it comes out of the nozzle. Slow down the prints to 15-20 mm³/s at the fastest and increase cooling.


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2024-03-22. Score: -1

Several different methods can be tried to solve this problem;

1- The type of filament you use (PETG) is a material that holds more moisture. You should definitely check your fan settings according to the region you live in.

2- I think you may have also reduced the retraction speed in the formation of the filament pile in the image. You are probably doing it to get a more uniform layer with a slow retraction, but the filament melting in the nozzle may have become leakage and formed piles at certain points.

But here especially because problems occur in the beginning and end layers;

[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/3qPXQ.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/3qPXQ.jpg)

3- Instead of reducing the retraction speed, you can better control the moisture content of the filament by changing the temperature between the layers. Higher temperature can vaporize the moisture in the filament and thus improve print quality.

Especially since the starting layer will cling to the ground, and act as a support structure, it can create leakage due to excessive moisture.

> **Comments:**
> **username_4**: I don't think the answer I wrote was wrong. Why did I get a negative vote? You should share with me the part you think I wrote wrong.  
> **username_5**: It could be because the question states that moisture is not a problem `I am using a dehumidifier/drying dock running almost constantly`, and your points 1 and 3 indicate that the problem is moisture. I also have my doubts on your answer. Furthermore, point 2 is a guess, the OP doesn't say anything about changing the retraction. I refrained from voting, but can imagine the answer received a downvote, no pun intended.  

---

