<p>So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-27T19:33:44.080Z
2019-02-27T19:33:44.080Z
Jacob White
<p>I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c
an warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-03T16:32:33.997Z
Hi Aaron, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it *is* rather terse, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-03-04T21:20:51.677Z
the "chemical compound" in hairspray is PVA, which is the *same* material as in PVA filament, wood glue, glue stick and 3d Lac
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-27T20:20:22.723Z
2019-03-04T19:59:07.037Z
2019-03-04T19:59:07.037Z
aaron elsey
<p><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/fY6wJ.jpg" alt="Failed first and second layer of print"></p>

<p>I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-13T08:14:09.530Z
Your question comes down to insufficient bed adhesion, there are a lot of questions related to that issue. You could start with proper leveling and nozzle to bed distance or using a glue stick.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-13T11:35:08.243Z
Don't overlap the blue tape, that is REALLY bad. Some lines do seem to overlap. And I was much happier with the BuildTak clone than I could ever be with the blue tape. Plus,if you really want to work with blue tape, pay it down in the Y direction, so the edges don'T scrub at the frame and induce layer shifting.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-13T15:26:15.280Z
It's probably bed adhesion, and that can be related to bed temperature, accuracy of Z-axis zeroing, correct extrusion rate for first layer...
Carl Witthoft
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-13T16:39:04.813Z
@Trish - Most things I've read suggest putting the tape at an angle to the bed. Definitely should NOT be overlapped, though.
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-14T02:04:46.437Z
What temperatures/type of plastic are you using?
Perplexed Dipole
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-14T14:38:42.180Z
I’m using PLA at 205 with a bed heat at 60. It’s what I was told I should use, so I figured that would work.
Jacob White
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-14T14:40:20.570Z
Thank you guys for your input, I will try your fixes as soon as I get some free time and let you know which of them was the right fix
Jacob White
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-15T14:55:24.000Z
It's all black magic, and best settings are machine-dependent.  I've heard from other forums that any temp above 50C will reduce the adhesive strength of the blue tape.  It depends a lot on the accuracy of the temperature sensor and the uniformity of temperature across the print bed.
Carl Witthoft
<creality-ender-3><print-failure>
Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines
Jacob White
# Ender 3 print is skipping and dragging up base print lines

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-02-13)

![Failed first and second layer of print](https://i.sstatic.net/fY6wJ.jpg)

I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.

**Tags:** creality-ender-3, print-failure
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Your question comes down to insufficient bed adhesion, there are a lot of questions related to that issue. You could start with proper leveling and nozzle to bed distance or using a glue stick.  
> **username_2**: Don't overlap the blue tape, that is REALLY bad. Some lines do seem to overlap. And I was much happier with the BuildTak clone than I could ever be with the blue tape. Plus,if you really want to work with blue tape, pay it down in the Y direction, so the edges don'T scrub at the frame and induce layer shifting.  
> **username_3**: It's probably bed adhesion, and that can be related to bed temperature, accuracy of Z-axis zeroing, correct extrusion rate for first layer...  
> **username_4**: @Trish - Most things I've read suggest putting the tape at an angle to the bed. Definitely should NOT be overlapped, though.  
> **username_5**: What temperatures/type of plastic are you using?  
> **username_0**: I’m using PLA at 205 with a bed heat at 60. It’s what I was told I should use, so I figured that would work.  
> **username_0**: Thank you guys for your input, I will try your fixes as soon as I get some free time and let you know which of them was the right fix  
> **username_3**: It's all black magic, and best settings are machine-dependent.  I've heard from other forums that any temp above 50C will reduce the adhesive strength of the blue tape.  It depends a lot on the accuracy of the temperature sensor and the uniformity of temperature across the print bed.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2019-02-27. Score: 4 | Accepted answer

So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2019-02-27. Score: 0

I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c
an warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape.

> **Comments:**
> **username_7**: Hi Aaron, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it *is* rather terse, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)  
> **username_2**: the "chemical compound" in hairspray is PVA, which is the *same* material as in PVA filament, wood glue, glue stick and 3d Lac  

---

