<p>After printing the printed filament level should be touching the nozzle (unless the filament shrinks considerably when the temperature decreases, e.g. when printing very big prints).</p>
<p>What is problematic is if the nozzle digs into already deposited layers when the printer over-extrudes, this has nothing to do with extruder compatibility, but with tuning the extrusion process.</p>
<p>Especially when printing 100 % infill, there is no room for the over-extrusion to go to than upwards in the infill region and outside at the walls. You need to further tune the extrusion process. First make sure the commanded extruded length is the actual extruded length (see <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer">How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?</a>), but further fine tuning may be required afterwards.</p>
<p>E.g. for one of the printers I have designed, the flow modifier in the slicer is set to 98 % in combination with the calibrated distance; it produce far better quality prints with this modifier.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-25T20:02:17.343Z
Hi @Oscar, so I tested the extruder per the said method. The extruder is calibrated as I was able to see the melt just about the mark at 100 mm. Should I now begin reducing my polymer flow that is set up at 100% across the board? I am at a loss here. I also have started to suspect the print bed itself might be warped with the center point (1 position) being more elevated than the corners. To create some space between the nozzle and the print bed at this central location, I really have to increase the nozzle distance with the bed at the four corners.
Beenum
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-25T20:04:47.667Z
@Oscar, this leads to the melt not sticking with the print bed. When I decrease the distance between the nozzle and the print bed to print 5 parts with the aforementioned dimensions, I start getting the nozzle digging into the print's surface. This usually happens around when 23% of the print is completed.
Beenum
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-25T23:20:05.893Z
You should have a bed that is as straight as possible, if there is a large bump in the bed you need to a) install a levelling sensor b) flatten the build plate or c) put a sheet of glass onto the bed. If the build surface isn't parallel to the nozzle, you would have too less space available for the filament to go to.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-28T16:50:15.497Z
@Oscar, I was able to print perfect quality samples using the same print conditions but just had to add a raft recently. It appears the print bed is warped in the center and adding a raft provided a flatter base to print on. It is surprising because this Ender 6 was just recently bought from the manufacturer.
Beenum
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-03-25T08:42:18.043Z
2022-03-25T08:42:18.043Z
0scar
<p>Microswiss does not mention Ender 6 to be a machine that is compatible with its direct drive. However, I have landed myself in a position where the printer I am using currently has a micro swiss direct drive. The printer was printing the bunny etc. default prints in the creality SD card just fine but I am getting nozzle scrapping the print surface when I print 5 152(L) mm x 35(W) mm x 3(T) mm prints with 100% infill. Could the incompatibility between the direct drive extruder and the Creality Ender 6 be the cause of eventual nozzle scrapping (rubbing) the print surface as the part's thickness increases? I have tried all sorts of settings. Increased/decreased bed temperatures (I am using PLA filament), adjusted the bed level, Z-offset. Nothing seems to be working.</p>

<print-quality><creality-ender-6>
Micro swiss direct drive for Ender 6
Beenum
# Micro swiss direct drive for Ender 6

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-03-24)

Microswiss does not mention Ender 6 to be a machine that is compatible with its direct drive. However, I have landed myself in a position where the printer I am using currently has a micro swiss direct drive. The printer was printing the bunny etc. default prints in the creality SD card just fine but I am getting nozzle scrapping the print surface when I print 5 152(L) mm x 35(W) mm x 3(T) mm prints with 100% infill. Could the incompatibility between the direct drive extruder and the Creality Ender 6 be the cause of eventual nozzle scrapping (rubbing) the print surface as the part's thickness increases? I have tried all sorts of settings. Increased/decreased bed temperatures (I am using PLA filament), adjusted the bed level, Z-offset. Nothing seems to be working.

**Tags:** print-quality, creality-ender-6

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-03-25. Score: 1

After printing the printed filament level should be touching the nozzle (unless the filament shrinks considerably when the temperature decreases, e.g. when printing very big prints).

What is problematic is if the nozzle digs into already deposited layers when the printer over-extrudes, this has nothing to do with extruder compatibility, but with tuning the extrusion process.

Especially when printing 100 % infill, there is no room for the over-extrusion to go to than upwards in the infill region and outside at the walls. You need to further tune the extrusion process. First make sure the commanded extruded length is the actual extruded length (see [How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer)), but further fine tuning may be required afterwards.

E.g. for one of the printers I have designed, the flow modifier in the slicer is set to 98 % in combination with the calibrated distance; it produce far better quality prints with this modifier.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Hi @Oscar, so I tested the extruder per the said method. The extruder is calibrated as I was able to see the melt just about the mark at 100 mm. Should I now begin reducing my polymer flow that is set up at 100% across the board? I am at a loss here. I also have started to suspect the print bed itself might be warped with the center point (1 position) being more elevated than the corners. To create some space between the nozzle and the print bed at this central location, I really have to increase the nozzle distance with the bed at the four corners.  
> **username_0**: @Oscar, this leads to the melt not sticking with the print bed. When I decrease the distance between the nozzle and the print bed to print 5 parts with the aforementioned dimensions, I start getting the nozzle digging into the print's surface. This usually happens around when 23% of the print is completed.  
> **username_1**: You should have a bed that is as straight as possible, if there is a large bump in the bed you need to a) install a levelling sensor b) flatten the build plate or c) put a sheet of glass onto the bed. If the build surface isn't parallel to the nozzle, you would have too less space available for the filament to go to.  
> **username_0**: @Oscar, I was able to print perfect quality samples using the same print conditions but just had to add a raft recently. It appears the print bed is warped in the center and adding a raft provided a flatter base to print on. It is surprising because this Ender 6 was just recently bought from the manufacturer.  

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