<p>An alternative solution that is used with some <a href="https://www.think3dprint3d.com/3D-Printer-Kits/complete-3D-printer-kits/Kossel-Mini-3dPrinter-Kit" rel="nofollow">Kossel Mini</a> models, is a simple <a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/RNWfKpkiA_cg16D6gPqcQ4e1uCFmW4-lIV-KVZYnFJyn3EtbCrsH_sXHKXZxkrlPjnHD1giczw676mjnJbq4SwFeJRHEGvfZqdh_j_QoX1kYxGITuiuJ9xQZ023sgMSyCEolIuo" rel="nofollow">cardboard covered with aluminum tape</a> (<a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1k2J78MIDsD2FBHLDnZ06bMdprNjH6nYhkiLUsjemnUc/pub" rel="nofollow">docs</a>).</p>

<p>This solution has the added benefit of actually improving heat-up time, since the reflective surface of the aluminum tape <em>reflects the heat back into the bed</em>, instead of getting absorbed. </p>

<p>It is also a very simple solution, without costly materials. I guess mounting it properly could be an issue depending on your printer, but this is a fine solution for the Kossel models, at least.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-05T09:31:53.923Z
2016-02-05T09:31:53.923Z
Tormod Haugene
<p>If you use a seperate powersupply for your bed (or if your controller has a built in voltage regulator so it doesn't damage at higher voltages) you can sometimes find an small potentiometer near the connection terminals of your powersupply, turning this potentiometer up can raise the outputvoltage of your powersupply by a few volts max. In my case the potentiometer was orange and allowed me to turn up the voltage by almost 2Volts!</p>

<p>If your printcontroller is running from the same powersupply and is critical about input DON'T do this since it will damage the electronics.
Better option then is to find a higher voltage powersupply and power the bed Seperately. </p>

<p>A buddy of mine runs his MARK2a bed on 19V and it heats up very fast. (he uses an obscure 15V powersupply that was able to be cranked up to 19V). And he doesn't use insulation at all!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-11-05T16:05:06.063Z
@leeand00  That would be orange plastic.
Technophile
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-08T13:55:06.023Z
Orange?  Do you mean glowing orange?
leeand00
CC BY-SA 3.0
2016-02-05T08:21:37.967Z
2016-02-05T08:21:37.967Z
Dimitri Modderman
<p>From what I understand, it takes a really long time for the heated bed to heat up using an MK2a heated bed.  I've heard some people suggest that using <a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,584582" rel="nofollow">Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam</a> (insulation that takes quite a bit of heat to catch on fire) can be used under the headed bed to make it heat up faster.   </p>

<p>Now of course there are other methods for doing this too, for instance using a larger power supply, but at this point I'd rather just use the parts that I have without re-soldering many of the components on the RAMPS board. </p>

<p>I was wondering what a proper way to attach this to the bed would be for instance, should the springs go on the bottom or on the top of the bed?  Do I need some extra parts?  Are there any other considerations for doing this?</p>

<heated-bed><printer-building><hbp><mk2a>
How to properly use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam with the heated bed?
leeand00
# How to properly use Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam with the heated bed?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2016-02-04)

From what I understand, it takes a really long time for the heated bed to heat up using an MK2a heated bed. I've heard some people suggest that using [Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam](http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,584582) (insulation that takes quite a bit of heat to catch on fire) can be used under the headed bed to make it heat up faster.

Now of course there are other methods for doing this too, for instance using a larger power supply, but at this point I'd rather just use the parts that I have without re-soldering many of the components on the RAMPS board.

I was wondering what a proper way to attach this to the bed would be for instance, should the springs go on the bottom or on the top of the bed? Do I need some extra parts? Are there any other considerations for doing this?

**Tags:** heated-bed, printer-building, hbp, mk2a

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2016-02-05. Score: 4

An alternative solution that is used with some [Kossel Mini](https://www.think3dprint3d.com/3D-Printer-Kits/complete-3D-printer-kits/Kossel-Mini-3dPrinter-Kit) models, is a simple [cardboard covered with aluminum tape](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/RNWfKpkiA_cg16D6gPqcQ4e1uCFmW4-lIV-KVZYnFJyn3EtbCrsH_sXHKXZxkrlPjnHD1giczw676mjnJbq4SwFeJRHEGvfZqdh_j_QoX1kYxGITuiuJ9xQZ023sgMSyCEolIuo) ([docs](https://docs.google.com/document/d/1k2J78MIDsD2FBHLDnZ06bMdprNjH6nYhkiLUsjemnUc/pub)).

This solution has the added benefit of actually improving heat-up time, since the reflective surface of the aluminum tape *reflects the heat back into the bed*, instead of getting absorbed.

It is also a very simple solution, without costly materials. I guess mounting it properly could be an issue depending on your printer, but this is a fine solution for the Kossel models, at least.


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2016-02-05. Score: 0

If you use a seperate powersupply for your bed (or if your controller has a built in voltage regulator so it doesn't damage at higher voltages) you can sometimes find an small potentiometer near the connection terminals of your powersupply, turning this potentiometer up can raise the outputvoltage of your powersupply by a few volts max. In my case the potentiometer was orange and allowed me to turn up the voltage by almost 2Volts!

If your printcontroller is running from the same powersupply and is critical about input DON'T do this since it will damage the electronics.
Better option then is to find a higher voltage powersupply and power the bed Seperately.

A buddy of mine runs his MARK2a bed on 19V and it heats up very fast. (he uses an obscure 15V powersupply that was able to be cranked up to 19V). And he doesn't use insulation at all!

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Orange?  Do you mean glowing orange?  
> **username_3**: @leeand00  That would be orange plastic.  

---

