<p>Good day, I have experience in applying electroless nickel on difficult 3D parts, in your case, it's exceedingly difficult to do it directly to the printed piece. You will need to seal the piece with a more benign coating that will accept the palladium activator. Also, a sensitizer before the activator is needed.</p>
<p>Try this.</p>
<p>Try your original procedure, but this time use just before the palladium activator, a stannous chloride solution (20 g per 1 L of deionized Water and 10 ml of muriatic acid), submerge the piece in the solution for 1 minute, rinse in deionized water and then place the piece on the palladium activator for 1 minute (don't rinse the activator) and then place the piece directly on the electroless nickel plating bath.</p>
<p>If that still does not produce good results, then you will need to seal the piece with a two-part epoxy sealer and do the process again.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-07T06:20:52.593Z
Thank you very much for that answer! What type of 3D parts do you coat that way? PLA? ABS? Or some Resin?
iblue
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-07T14:18:33.687Z
I have coated all of those, the Easiest is Resin, the hardest is ABS and PLA, it's much easier to just coat them with 2 part epoxy, the best so far is XTC-3D
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T13:07:20.013Z
Ok. I ordered tin(ii) chloride, the rest I already have. I will try that.
iblue
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T14:09:49.693Z
@iblue Often time the issue is related to the water surface tension of the piece, most of the 3D print materials have very high water tension and even when submerged for minutes the sensitizer and activator just don't coat the surface. In this case you will need to reduce water surface tension with a wetting agent. You can order some from angelgilding.com the 15 or the 28 buck ones are good for this type of projects. Or if you need to make it yourself let me know I have the formula.
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T14:15:47.900Z
Here is the website for the wetting agent https://angelgilding.com/wetting-agent.html
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T20:20:10.107Z
Thanks for the info. Shipping to Germany is "request a quote", which usually hints that I cannot afford it. I already have some sodium laureth sulfate from previous experiments. Will that do?
iblue
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T21:41:22.030Z
It's not going to work since the wetting properties needs to persist even after the piece are washed/rinsed. You have two options. 1. a blow torch to reduce the surface water tension(it can be tricky) or making your own formula. This is what it has worked for me. 500ml of Apple Cider Vinegar, 10 grams of instant coffee powder, 100ml of 90% isopropyl alcohol. mix them at room temperature(30C where I live) to test it's properties you can grab a simple Polypropylene spoon rub some of the wetting agent on. Water will sheet of and the spoon remains wet
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-12T22:11:47.927Z
Check and see these two videos, this one is Before wetting agent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pBcekRzi_k and After Wetting agent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NJ5-m1Z1KQ that is what you are looking for
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-22T18:04:07.353Z
So i made some experiments. It works about the same on resin, ABS and PLA, but on PLA it does rub off, on ABS and resin the Nickel coating sticks very well. On all three I do not get uniform plating, but dull spots, about 50-70% of the surface. I tried with and without the wetting agent with approximately the same results. ABS and PLA I etched in some KOH (400 g/l) before the whole process. The plated metal is very thin and has bad conductance. Any tips?
iblue
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-22T22:55:13.027Z
I believe I mentioned that even with good treatment the issue may persist due to their surface. I recomend sealing it with an 2K epoxy coating like XTC-3D Coating.
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-23T18:06:29.110Z
Also, I have never used an Etch on my parts, so you might want to try to skip that part and see how it does..
Marvin Sevilla
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-06T20:52:53.847Z
2022-10-07T01:52:16.473Z
2022-10-07T01:52:16.473Z
Marvin Sevilla
<p>There is another option where the plating is done like brushing paint. The electroplating is just done a different way but has the same effect.</p>
<p>It's called <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wktymv8fsus" rel="nofollow noreferrer">brush plating</a>. There's a bunch of different products (none of which I have tried) and the youtube results are pretty impressive. They do need a current as it's electroplating, but you don't immerse the object, the current is through the brush etc,.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-21T04:24:54.917Z
2022-08-21T04:24:54.917Z
Kilisi
<p>You can use semiconductor processes like evaporation, sputtering, and chemical vapor deposition.  These are expensive.  Sputtering is probably the most feasable but it will have trouble with shadows.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-23T19:21:06.640Z
2022-08-23T19:21:06.640Z
Perry Webb
<p>I know that 3D printed parts can be coated in metal by painting them with conductive paint (graphite or copper seems to be usual) and then electroplating them in a commercial copper or nickel bath. The disadvantage of this process is that it does not coat insides very well, because those are not reached by the electric field.</p>
<p>I know that in the industry for plating ABS-parts with chrome and other metals, there is a process used where first the ABS is etched, then seeded with electroless catalytic palladium and then there are various options, for example electroless nickel or chrome.</p>
<p>I tried to etch both FDM printed ABS and ABS-like resin prints in NaOH, then after rinsing, dropped them in a commercial palladium activator and, after rinsing again, then in an electroless nickel bath, without any effect.</p>
<p>Does anyone have an idea on how to metal plate 3D printed parts (by electroless plating, meaning no electricity involved) and can shed some light on the chemicals used? I would prefer to mix them myself.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T12:45:54.060Z
You did not use FDM but a Resin printer, yes?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T13:03:46.660Z
I tried both. Edited the question to make that clear
iblue
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-08-20T13:04:38.563Z
I can only say that Resin from Resin printers is not etchable with common materials... maybe your ABS is modified or your base too weak?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-10-11T18:08:37.160Z
I would try again using the suggestion from Marvin but with PC-ABS by Polymaker, designed specifically to ease electroplating. https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymaker-pc-abs/
FarO
<resin><fdm><post-processing>
Metal coating 3D printed parts (electroless plating)
iblue
# Metal coating 3D printed parts (electroless plating)

(Asked by: username_0 on 2022-08-20)

I know that 3D printed parts can be coated in metal by painting them with conductive paint (graphite or copper seems to be usual) and then electroplating them in a commercial copper or nickel bath. The disadvantage of this process is that it does not coat insides very well, because those are not reached by the electric field.

I know that in the industry for plating ABS-parts with chrome and other metals, there is a process used where first the ABS is etched, then seeded with electroless catalytic palladium and then there are various options, for example electroless nickel or chrome.

I tried to etch both FDM printed ABS and ABS-like resin prints in NaOH, then after rinsing, dropped them in a commercial palladium activator and, after rinsing again, then in an electroless nickel bath, without any effect.

Does anyone have an idea on how to metal plate 3D printed parts (by electroless plating, meaning no electricity involved) and can shed some light on the chemicals used? I would prefer to mix them myself.

**Tags:** resin, fdm, post-processing
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: You did not use FDM but a Resin printer, yes?  
> **username_0**: I tried both. Edited the question to make that clear  
> **username_1**: I can only say that Resin from Resin printers is not etchable with common materials... maybe your ABS is modified or your base too weak?  
> **username_2**: I would try again using the suggestion from Marvin but with PC-ABS by Polymaker, designed specifically to ease electroplating. https://eu.polymaker.com/product/polymaker-pc-abs/  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2022-10-06. Score: 5

Good day, I have experience in applying electroless nickel on difficult 3D parts, in your case, it's exceedingly difficult to do it directly to the printed piece. You will need to seal the piece with a more benign coating that will accept the palladium activator. Also, a sensitizer before the activator is needed.

Try this.

Try your original procedure, but this time use just before the palladium activator, a stannous chloride solution (20 g per 1 L of deionized Water and 10 ml of muriatic acid), submerge the piece in the solution for 1 minute, rinse in deionized water and then place the piece on the palladium activator for 1 minute (don't rinse the activator) and then place the piece directly on the electroless nickel plating bath.

If that still does not produce good results, then you will need to seal the piece with a two-part epoxy sealer and do the process again.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Thank you very much for that answer! What type of 3D parts do you coat that way? PLA? ABS? Or some Resin?  
> **username_3**: I have coated all of those, the Easiest is Resin, the hardest is ABS and PLA, it's much easier to just coat them with 2 part epoxy, the best so far is XTC-3D  
> **username_0**: Ok. I ordered tin(ii) chloride, the rest I already have. I will try that.  
> **username_3**: @iblue Often time the issue is related to the water surface tension of the piece, most of the 3D print materials have very high water tension and even when submerged for minutes the sensitizer and activator just don't coat the surface. In this case you will need to reduce water surface tension with a wetting agent. You can order some from angelgilding.com the 15 or the 28 buck ones are good for this type of projects. Or if you need to make it yourself let me know I have the formula.  
> **username_3**: Here is the website for the wetting agent https://angelgilding.com/wetting-agent.html  
> **username_0**: Thanks for the info. Shipping to Germany is "request a quote", which usually hints that I cannot afford it. I already have some sodium laureth sulfate from previous experiments. Will that do?  
> **username_3**: It's not going to work since the wetting properties needs to persist even after the piece are washed/rinsed. You have two options. 1. a blow torch to reduce the surface water tension(it can be tricky) or making your own formula. This is what it has worked for me. 500ml of Apple Cider Vinegar, 10 grams of instant coffee powder, 100ml of 90% isopropyl alcohol. mix them at room temperature(30C where I live) to test it's properties you can grab a simple Polypropylene spoon rub some of the wetting agent on. Water will sheet of and the spoon remains wet  
> **username_3**: Check and see these two videos, this one is Before wetting agent. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pBcekRzi_k and After Wetting agent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NJ5-m1Z1KQ that is what you are looking for  
> **username_0**: So i made some experiments. It works about the same on resin, ABS and PLA, but on PLA it does rub off, on ABS and resin the Nickel coating sticks very well. On all three I do not get uniform plating, but dull spots, about 50-70% of the surface. I tried with and without the wetting agent with approximately the same results. ABS and PLA I etched in some KOH (400 g/l) before the whole process. The plated metal is very thin and has bad conductance. Any tips?  
> **username_3**: I believe I mentioned that even with good treatment the issue may persist due to their surface. I recomend sealing it with an 2K epoxy coating like XTC-3D Coating.  
> **username_3**: Also, I have never used an Etch on my parts, so you might want to try to skip that part and see how it does..  

---

### Answer by username_4 on 2022-08-21. Score: 1

There is another option where the plating is done like brushing paint. The electroplating is just done a different way but has the same effect.

It's called [brush plating](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wktymv8fsus). There's a bunch of different products (none of which I have tried) and the youtube results are pretty impressive. They do need a current as it's electroplating, but you don't immerse the object, the current is through the brush etc,.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2022-08-23. Score: 0

You can use semiconductor processes like evaporation, sputtering, and chemical vapor deposition. These are expensive. Sputtering is probably the most feasable but it will have trouble with shadows.


---

