<p>Every print is somewhat affected by chamber temperature. On small prints, or prints with lower-temperature materials, the improvement is minor.</p>
<p>However, large prints with higher-temperature materials (like PETG) really benefit from a heated chamber. This helps by keeping the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, and then letting it all cool together, more uniformly. Uniform cooling reduces the stresses of having different layers cool at different times and rates.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-07-14T15:05:11.873Z
2022-07-14T15:05:11.873Z
Davo
<p>This sounds like a bed leveling issue.  As reported by others, I get much less warping with PETG than with ABS or even PLA, and deal with too much adhesion with PETG rather than too little.  With a Reprap x400, I printed a faceplate for the extruder to hold a electronic drop indicator.  This gives me much higher precision leveling. Of course, I remove the drop indicator after leveling.</p>
<p>If leveling isn't the issue, then you may be printing too fast.  The recommendations I've seen are to print PETG at 50 mm/s or less.  I print a a lower speed than that.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-09-28T12:04:00.523Z
2020-09-28T12:04:00.523Z
Perry Webb
<p>In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing settings for PETG (Recently I had some success using 245 °C nozzle temperature and 80 °C build plate).</p>
<p>Any ideas how to reduce those problems?</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-25T19:58:04.317Z
Large prints with PETG really benefit from a heated chamber, to keep the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, then let it all cool at once.
Davo
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-26T02:35:42.480Z
They also benefit from a bed that has an even heat distribution.
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-30T16:58:14.257Z
If you can get your bed level so you do not need to use raft, you can then apply glue stick to the glass bed. Works for me everytime as I use auto bed leveling and do not use raft. If you need to use raft, I would suggest pumping up the temps a bit higher in order to make the layers bond together better (255°C on nozzle, 85-90°C on the bed). I am not sure about Cura, but there should be a setting to set the distance between the first layer of the print and the raft. If you decrease the distance, the print will stick to the raft better, which will also result in the raft being harder to remove.
TurgonTheKingOfGondolin
CC BY-SA 4.0
2022-06-20T17:56:47.753Z
@Davo Please convert the comment into an answer! It has my vote and apparently 2 other's!
0scar
<adhesion><heat-management><petg><warping><creality-ender-5>
Problem printing bigger models in the Ender 5
Cadu Oliveira
# Problem printing bigger models in the Ender 5

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-08-25)

In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing settings for PETG (Recently I had some success using 245 °C nozzle temperature and 80 °C build plate).

Any ideas how to reduce those problems?

**Tags:** adhesion, heat-management, petg, warping, creality-ender-5
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Large prints with PETG really benefit from a heated chamber, to keep the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, then let it all cool at once.  
> **username_2**: They also benefit from a bed that has an even heat distribution.  
> **username_3**: If you can get your bed level so you do not need to use raft, you can then apply glue stick to the glass bed. Works for me everytime as I use auto bed leveling and do not use raft. If you need to use raft, I would suggest pumping up the temps a bit higher in order to make the layers bond together better (255°C on nozzle, 85-90°C on the bed). I am not sure about Cura, but there should be a setting to set the distance between the first layer of the print and the raft. If you decrease the distance, the print will stick to the raft better, which will also result in the raft being harder to remove.  
> **username_4**: @Davo Please convert the comment into an answer! It has my vote and apparently 2 other's!  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2022-07-14. Score: 1

Every print is somewhat affected by chamber temperature. On small prints, or prints with lower-temperature materials, the improvement is minor.

However, large prints with higher-temperature materials (like PETG) really benefit from a heated chamber. This helps by keeping the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, and then letting it all cool together, more uniformly. Uniform cooling reduces the stresses of having different layers cool at different times and rates.


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### Answer by username_5 on 2020-09-28. Score: 0

This sounds like a bed leveling issue. As reported by others, I get much less warping with PETG than with ABS or even PLA, and deal with too much adhesion with PETG rather than too little. With a Reprap x400, I printed a faceplate for the extruder to hold a electronic drop indicator. This gives me much higher precision leveling. Of course, I remove the drop indicator after leveling.

If leveling isn't the issue, then you may be printing too fast. The recommendations I've seen are to print PETG at 50 mm/s or less. I print a a lower speed than that.


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