<p>To be successful you would need to ensure that the geometry of the two nozzles are compatible. It is not just the external thread. It includes thread length, internal diameter of the nozzle, whether the hot-end is configured for a PTFE liner, or is an all-metal hot-end, how the back end of the nozzle couples back to the heat-break, how the internal geometry of the nozzle sits in relation to the heater block etc.</p>
<p>The original designs that spawned many of the clones were usually highly researched and sophisticated holistic balances of thermal and mechanical properties designed to prevent clogging with the widest range of filaments within the design spec of the hot end.</p>
<p>Randomly swapping parts could alter that balance and cause all sorts of printing problems - including leaks, burned filament within the nozzle, clogging, oozing, poor retraction control, poor thermal control etc.</p>
<p>But, if the geometries of the two nozzles are close enough, you might be ok...</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T14:35:28.817Z
"hether the hot-end is configured for a PTFE liner, or is an all-metal hot-end, " is not a parameter of neither Makerbot MK8 nor e3Dv6 nozzles.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T15:55:44.427Z
True, but it IS a parameter of many of the cheaper clones that market themselves using the names of these hot-end models. I have used a number of genuine E3D V6s and the actual E3D ones were all all-metal hot ends and very nicely made. I have also encountered a number of clones from Ebay and elsewhere that, while they claimed to be a "V6", and looked like a V6, also contained a ptfe liner... I have also seen a number of MK8 "clones" that all share the same basic shape and configuration, but are each their own unique beast. Most of these used ptfe liners too.
woneill1701
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T15:59:40.917Z
it's a setup of the whole hotend, not the nozzle itself. Only the Makerbot MK10 is different in that it requires a liner. [Heatbreaks](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012) are not nozzles!
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T16:04:54.890Z
True, but I have had nozzles where the ptfe extended into the top end of nozzle itself, and the top of the nozzle was bored-out to accept the ptfe. When I upgraded the throat to be all-metal, I also had to change the nozzle so that it's bore was consistent with the bore on the throat.
woneill1701
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T16:35:17.067Z
Those are extreme outliers, because that would be an Makerbot Mk10 in M6 formfactor which is WAY out of the spec.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T16:48:53.860Z
Exactly! My original point was merely intended to convey the concept that, at the end of the day, you need to make sure, on a case-by-case basis, that the internal structure of the parts are compatible just as much as the external threads. I learned very quickly that looking at part names as a way to determine compatibility was not enough on its own, and it was also necessary to understand something about the engineering of the part if I wanted to start swapping things around. Either that, or I would buy parts from the same manufacturer if I wanted them to work together.
woneill1701
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-07T03:16:15.610Z
Interesting discussion relevant to this topic... https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/TEdslEknny4.  “It was called Mk8. It is different from the MakerBot MK8 in almost every way.
The thermal barrier was PTFE lined with a 3mm OD, 2mm ID liner that extended into the special nozzle that looked like MK8 but had 3mm internal bore for the liner.”
woneill1701
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-07-06T12:48:50.997Z
2020-07-06T14:26:27.960Z
2020-07-06T14:26:27.960Z
woneill1701
<p>I have an Ender 3 and Prusa MK3S using MK8 and E3D V6 nozzles respectively.</p>
<p>I've read some difference between these two nozzles in question <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7844/e3d-v6-nozzle-vs-mk8-nozzle-first-layer-adhesion">&quot;E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion&quot;</a>.</p>
<p>Can I use an MK8 nozzle in the v6 heater block and vice versa? I know both have same M6 thread but what tolerance do they follow?</p>

<nozzle>
MK8 versus E3d V6 nozzle
Alex
# MK8 versus E3d V6 nozzle

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-07-06)

I have an Ender 3 and Prusa MK3S using MK8 and E3D V6 nozzles respectively.

I've read some difference between these two nozzles in question ["E3D V6 nozzle vs MK8 nozzle, first layer adhesion"](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7844/e3d-v6-nozzle-vs-mk8-nozzle-first-layer-adhesion).

Can I use an MK8 nozzle in the v6 heater block and vice versa? I know both have same M6 thread but what tolerance do they follow?

**Tags:** nozzle

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2020-07-06. Score: 0

To be successful you would need to ensure that the geometry of the two nozzles are compatible. It is not just the external thread. It includes thread length, internal diameter of the nozzle, whether the hot-end is configured for a PTFE liner, or is an all-metal hot-end, how the back end of the nozzle couples back to the heat-break, how the internal geometry of the nozzle sits in relation to the heater block etc.

The original designs that spawned many of the clones were usually highly researched and sophisticated holistic balances of thermal and mechanical properties designed to prevent clogging with the widest range of filaments within the design spec of the hot end.

Randomly swapping parts could alter that balance and cause all sorts of printing problems - including leaks, burned filament within the nozzle, clogging, oozing, poor retraction control, poor thermal control etc.

But, if the geometries of the two nozzles are close enough, you might be ok...

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: "hether the hot-end is configured for a PTFE liner, or is an all-metal hot-end, " is not a parameter of neither Makerbot MK8 nor e3Dv6 nozzles.  
> **username_1**: True, but it IS a parameter of many of the cheaper clones that market themselves using the names of these hot-end models. I have used a number of genuine E3D V6s and the actual E3D ones were all all-metal hot ends and very nicely made. I have also encountered a number of clones from Ebay and elsewhere that, while they claimed to be a "V6", and looked like a V6, also contained a ptfe liner... I have also seen a number of MK8 "clones" that all share the same basic shape and configuration, but are each their own unique beast. Most of these used ptfe liners too.  
> **username_2**: it's a setup of the whole hotend, not the nozzle itself. Only the Makerbot MK10 is different in that it requires a liner. [Heatbreaks](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012) are not nozzles!  
> **username_1**: True, but I have had nozzles where the ptfe extended into the top end of nozzle itself, and the top of the nozzle was bored-out to accept the ptfe. When I upgraded the throat to be all-metal, I also had to change the nozzle so that it's bore was consistent with the bore on the throat.  
> **username_2**: Those are extreme outliers, because that would be an Makerbot Mk10 in M6 formfactor which is WAY out of the spec.  
> **username_1**: Exactly! My original point was merely intended to convey the concept that, at the end of the day, you need to make sure, on a case-by-case basis, that the internal structure of the parts are compatible just as much as the external threads. I learned very quickly that looking at part names as a way to determine compatibility was not enough on its own, and it was also necessary to understand something about the engineering of the part if I wanted to start swapping things around. Either that, or I would buy parts from the same manufacturer if I wanted them to work together.  
> **username_1**: Interesting discussion relevant to this topic... https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/wanhao-printer-3d/TEdslEknny4.  “It was called Mk8. It is different from the MakerBot MK8 in almost every way. The thermal barrier was PTFE lined with a 3mm OD, 2mm ID liner that extended into the special nozzle that looked like MK8 but had 3mm internal bore for the liner.”  

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