<p>Check the following:</p>

<ul>
<li>Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.</li>
<li>Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? </li>
<li>Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. See the video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">#18:Calibration</a> for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.</li>
<li>Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.</li>
</ul>

<p>If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5113/electrophile">electrophile</a> points out in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing#answer-4019">their answer</a>) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a <em>thin coating</em> to the glass with one of the following:</p>

<ul>
<li>Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue</li>
<li>Using hairspray</li>
</ul>

<p>Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.</p>

<p>Or by adding an additional <em>print surface</em>, such as:</p>

<ul>
<li>Using blue painters tape</li>
<li>Using PEI tape</li>
<li>Using Kapton tape</li>
<li>Using <a href="https://www.buildtak.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BuildTak</a></li>
</ul>

<p>If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2017-05-09T12:37:59.490Z
2019-01-03T09:10:25.563Z
2019-01-03T09:10:25.563Z
Greenonline
<p>I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-09T11:08:32.860Z
2017-05-09T11:08:32.860Z
electrophile
<p>material sticking problem can be due to following reason:</p>

<ul>
<li>bed level</li>
<li>bed temperature</li>
<li>z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)</li>
<li>bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)</li>
</ul>

<p>remove all above reason step by step </p>

<ul>
<li>first confirm bed level</li>
<li>bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )</li>
</ul>

<p>all above option are good but warpping chance are higher
for last bed surface you have following option to use  </p>

<ul>
<li><p>use paper tape </p></li>
<li><p>use Kapton tape</p></li>
<li><p>glue stick</p></li>
<li><p>use paste  (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating </p></li>
</ul>

<p>if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-14T03:10:02.327Z
2017-05-15T17:38:42.730Z
2017-05-15T17:38:42.730Z
Kallz
<p>Had the same issue mainly with glass bed thought for me it didn't happen on small models but fixed it by using 3DLAC it is just a glue for you 3D printer that makes the prints stick more.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-12-29T09:40:37.777Z
2024-12-29T14:02:02.777Z
2024-12-29T14:02:02.777Z
KIKO.Studios
<p>I've cleaned the heated bed as suggested using ethanol, 
then I've tested the Z distance of the nozzle from the bed with a paper sheet and it was ok. Lastly, I tried to raise the temperature of the extruder for the first layer to 215°C. I think that this did the trick.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-11T13:03:16.387Z
2017-05-13T23:11:54.090Z
2017-05-13T23:11:54.090Z
Peter
<p>With PLA I normally run the bed at 70 and the extruder at 190. Make sure the bed gets to temperature before you start and use gluestick on the bed. </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-13T11:06:05.663Z
2017-05-13T11:06:05.663Z
Brad
<p>I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.</p>

<p>I'm trying to print a calibration cube. </p>

<p>The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75&nbsp;mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4&nbsp;mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C. </p>

<p>As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed. </p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/zdPaw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/zdPaw.jpg" alt="Photo of filament not adhering the printbed"></a></p>

<p>I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle. </p>

<p>How could I resolve this? Any advice? </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-09T10:08:05.740Z
Is the print bed clean? Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.
Greenonline
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-05-09T12:12:02.023Z
The bed should reach the correct temperature, that is measured by a thermo resistor and displayed on the printer LCD as 60°C. 
Yes, I've manually calibrated the printer, maybe I should check again doing this trial with a paper sheet. 
A thing that I didn't do was to clean the bed, maybe this should do the trick.
Peter
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-10-03T05:41:16.953Z
What kind of filament are you printing? What is your first layer hight? What is your layer pattern? Did you clean your print bed with something to remove fingerprints, dust and oil?
Trish
<filament><ultimaker-cura><adhesion>
Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing
Peter
# Filament lifts from the hot bed while printing

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-05-09)

I have a Tevo Tarantula 3D printer.

I'm trying to print a calibration cube.

The slicer is Cura and is set for a 1.75 mm filament extruded by a nozzle of 0.4 mm, with a heat bed temperature of 60°C and extruder 200°C.

As seen in the image I stopped the printer after a minute, when I noticed that the filament wasn't sticking to the hotbed.

[![Photo of filament not adhering the printbed](https://i.sstatic.net/zdPaw.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/zdPaw.jpg)

I've also made other tests, but the result is the same - the upper right part of the print lifts and touches the moving nozzle.

How could I resolve this? Any advice?

**Tags:** filament, ultimaker-cura, adhesion
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Is the print bed clean? Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.  
> **username_0**: The bed should reach the correct temperature, that is measured by a thermo resistor and displayed on the printer LCD as 60°C.  Yes, I've manually calibrated the printer, maybe I should check again doing this trial with a paper sheet.  A thing that I didn't do was to clean the bed, maybe this should do the trick.  
> **username_2**: What kind of filament are you printing? What is your first layer hight? What is your layer pattern? Did you clean your print bed with something to remove fingerprints, dust and oil?  

---

## 6 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-05-09. Score: 3

Check the following:

* Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.
* Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature?
* Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. See the video [#18:Calibration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk) for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.
* Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.

If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as [electrophile](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5113/electrophile) points out in [their answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing#answer-4019)) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a *thin coating* to the glass with one of the following:

* Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue
* Using hairspray

Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.

Or by adding an additional *print surface*, such as:

* Using blue painters tape
* Using PEI tape
* Using Kapton tape
* Using [BuildTak](https://www.buildtak.com/)

If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.


---

### Answer by username_3 on 2017-05-09. Score: 2

I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet.


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2017-05-14. Score: 1

material sticking problem can be due to following reason:

* bed level
* bed temperature
* z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)
* bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)

remove all above reason step by step

* first confirm bed level
* bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )

all above option are good but warpping chance are higher
for last bed surface you have following option to use

* use paper tape
* use Kapton tape
* glue stick
* use paste (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating

if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2024-12-29. Score: 1

Had the same issue mainly with glass bed thought for me it didn't happen on small models but fixed it by using 3DLAC it is just a glue for you 3D printer that makes the prints stick more.


---

### Answer by username_0 on 2017-05-11. Score: 1

I've cleaned the heated bed as suggested using ethanol,
then I've tested the Z distance of the nozzle from the bed with a paper sheet and it was ok. Lastly, I tried to raise the temperature of the extruder for the first layer to 215°C. I think that this did the trick.


---

### Answer by username_6 on 2017-05-13. Score: 0

With PLA I normally run the bed at 70 and the extruder at 190. Make sure the bed gets to temperature before you start and use gluestick on the bed.


---

