<p>I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to <strong>space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one</strong>.</p>

<p>If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past the footprint of the part.  Unless you are printing <em>very</em> small parts, you don't need that to be a lot.</p>

<p>In general, <strong>you should think to a raft as a print in and by itself: the larger it is, the more prone to warping,</strong> although the way filament is layered with gaps makes the raft bend and warp a lot less than a regular print of the same size.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:56:34.790Z
Currently I am using the stock program(makerbot print). Are there advantages to using cura over it? I think I will try the mini-raft
Jake Faulkner
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T16:40:48.113Z
@JakeFaulkner - I don't have experience with Makerbot Print, Cura and Slic3r (Prusa Edition) are two solid choices when it comes to FLOSS though.  Cura expecially has very granular settings that allow for a lot (somebody say: "too much") tweaking.
mac
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T13:37:05.627Z
2018-02-13T13:37:05.627Z
mac
<p>Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick to your entire printed to help with raft adhesion to the bed.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T13:13:08.127Z
2018-02-13T13:13:08.127Z
TECTEC3 Studios
<p>Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology</p>

<p>On a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/1k0PE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/1k0PE.jpg" alt="bad"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-12T20:56:30.163Z
you can consider the raft and the part to be one and the same. A raft will not necessarily prevent warping, as you've discovered. Please consider to edit your post to indicate your heated(?) bed temperature and surface treatment (glue, blue tape) and bed material (glass, aluminum, PEI).
fred_dot_u
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T20:48:30.413Z
@fred_dot_u Jake Faulkner said "The printer does not have a heated base".
Ljk2000
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T22:23:09.110Z
@Ljk2000 I added that after he suggested it
Jake Faulkner
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-14T06:49:44.190Z
@fred_dot_u Looks like I own you a apology. Sorry! Thank you Jake Faulkner for telling me!
Ljk2000
<makerbot><warping><rafts>
Raft warping (Makerbot Replicator+)
Jake Faulkner
# Raft warping (Makerbot Replicator+)

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-02-12)

Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology

On a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box.

[![bad](https://i.sstatic.net/1k0PE.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/1k0PE.jpg)

**Tags:** makerbot, warping, rafts
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: you can consider the raft and the part to be one and the same. A raft will not necessarily prevent warping, as you've discovered. Please consider to edit your post to indicate your heated(?) bed temperature and surface treatment (glue, blue tape) and bed material (glass, aluminum, PEI).  
> **username_2**: @fred_dot_u Jake Faulkner said "The printer does not have a heated base".  
> **username_0**: @Ljk2000 I added that after he suggested it  
> **username_2**: @fred_dot_u Looks like I own you a apology. Sorry! Thank you Jake Faulkner for telling me!  

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## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-02-13. Score: 2 | Accepted answer

I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to **space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one**.

If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past the footprint of the part. Unless you are printing *very* small parts, you don't need that to be a lot.

In general, **you should think to a raft as a print in and by itself: the larger it is, the more prone to warping,** although the way filament is layered with gaps makes the raft bend and warp a lot less than a regular print of the same size.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Currently I am using the stock program(makerbot print). Are there advantages to using cura over it? I think I will try the mini-raft  
> **username_3**: @JakeFaulkner - I don't have experience with Makerbot Print, Cura and Slic3r (Prusa Edition) are two solid choices when it comes to FLOSS though.  Cura expecially has very granular settings that allow for a lot (somebody say: "too much") tweaking.  

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### Answer by username_4 on 2018-02-13. Score: 0

Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick to your entire printed to help with raft adhesion to the bed.


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