<p>I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T13:06:06.447Z
Just buildtak or painting tape will not solve his problem. The main problem here is that his nozzle is too far away from the bed so its not getting good bed adhesion. You can make your prints stick on mostly anything if your bed is properly level.
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T13:10:15.953Z
Than an elongated nozzle should help. You can buy them from Amazon. I don't believe that the name of it is actually "elongated nozzle", but looking up 0.2 mm nozzle and scrolling through, there will be some that are vertically larger than others. That should fix the problem.
TECTEC3 Studios
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T13:13:46.657Z
Why would buying a different nozzle be easier than just properly leveling the bed? Or is the printer that he has not equipped with a bed that can be manually leveled?
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:05:30.227Z
If the bed is auto-levelling then he needs to buy a nozzle from the supplier of the printer he has so that it will be the same size. If his bed can be levelled, than I don't know why he would even post this question in the first place.
TECTEC3 Studios
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:07:26.403Z
He posted the question because he is a beginner. And why would he need a new nozzle if he has auto bed leveling? I have auto bed leveling on all my printers of different kinds and they all have a feature where you can calibrate the z-offset. No need to buy a new nozzle at all.
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:09:09.420Z
If he is a beginner who doesn't even know how to level his bed then how would he know how to calibrate for the z offset?
TECTEC3 Studios
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:11:58.270Z
Because calibrating the z-offset is done through the screen of most printers. But I am 100% sure that his printer is not making use of a auto bed leveling sensor so the direction where this discussion is going is highly off topic.
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:13:29.560Z
Well if it isn't using an auit bed levelling sensor than it's a simple matter if either buying a longer nozzle or simply levelling the bed.
TECTEC3 Studios
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:15:39.147Z
A new nozzle is never a solution for being to high above the bed because you will have to buy a perfectly sized nozzle to make a good squish on the bed. And unless you are a wizard, that won't happen. So **yes** properly leveling the bed and making sure the surface is clean is the way to resolve the issue. Maybe even slow down the layer alot aswell.
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T14:18:06.447Z
Well then it is simply a matter of bed levelling. I couldn't tell that his bed wasn't level from the start because it sounded to me like there was something actually wrong with his machine, rather than a matter if not reading the manual and knowing to level the bed.
TECTEC3 Studios
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T17:02:43.720Z
You both are right, one problem was the tape as now a could print something with very low quality but it could grab on the bed. The second problem is the calibration, while printing I realised that the nozzle is too far away from the bed, mainly when it is not in the centre of it. I'll try to recalibrate it and see how it goes.
Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-12T15:01:03.200Z
2018-02-12T15:01:03.200Z
TECTEC3 Studios
<p>From the video it is very clear there is <strong>a major problem with bed adhesion</strong>.</p>

<p>It also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is <strong><a href="https://youtu.be/G2wAsP1biFc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">covering the bed in painter's tape</a> and wipe it with some alcohol</strong>.  This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using.</p>

<p>If you haven't tried this before, you should know that:</p>

<ul>
<li>some brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol</li>
<li>you may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape</li>
</ul>

<p>Unless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865" rel="nofollow noreferrer">test cubes</a> and possibly some <a href="http://www.3dbenchy.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">stress tests</a> as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-12T14:28:34.917Z
Printing on a bare metal surface is perfectly fine. Just keep it clean. But the reason why its not working here is because the bed leveling is terrible. You can see in the video that the nozzle goes from very close to the bed to very far from the bed during the print. Also it is printing WAY to fast for it to adhere properly. Slowing down and doing a proper bed level will most certainly fix this problem :)
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-12T15:57:27.100Z
@Granny - thank you for the input, from your comment it seems printing on metal is similar to printing on glass (i.e.: unforgiving material).  I would argue that for a beginner it is advisable to get printing with the help of some surface prepping: much less frustration while you get to learn the ropes and appreciate what "perfectly level" means. :)
mac
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T07:33:30.640Z
@mac I myself started printing almost 1 year ago, I just sat down for 15 min when i got the printer trying different amount of friction on the a4 paper until i had just the right squish. You don't have to be a advanced "3D printerer" to get the perfect bed leveling. If you know the perfect amount of friction, bed leveling is a easy, no matter what surface you are on :)
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T08:12:50.680Z
@Granny - yes, but I'm not the one having adhesion problems here! ;)
mac
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-13T08:13:40.330Z
@mac Ik :) I was talking about it in general for everyone that considers themselves "beginners".
Granny
CC BY-SA 3.0
2018-02-10T23:24:46.680Z
2018-02-10T23:24:46.680Z
mac
<p>That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.
That's what I was trying to print:
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/f1V22.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/f1V22.jpg" alt="handle"></a>
and that's what I've got.
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/iPEfT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/iPEfT.jpg" alt="cr*p print"></a>
Here you have a video of the impression. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdBQL44R3M" rel="nofollow noreferrer">it is a G2S pro rostock mini</a></p>

<troubleshooting>
Filament is not stuck
Hola Soy Edu Feliz Navidad
# Filament is not stuck

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-02-10)

That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one.
That's what I was trying to print:
[![handle](https://i.sstatic.net/f1V22.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/f1V22.jpg)
and that's what I've got.
[![cr*p print](https://i.sstatic.net/iPEfT.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/iPEfT.jpg)
Here you have a video of the impression. [it is a G2S pro rostock mini](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdBQL44R3M)

**Tags:** troubleshooting

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-02-10. Score: 3 | Accepted answer

From the video it is very clear there is **a major problem with bed adhesion**.

It also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is **[covering the bed in painter's tape](https://youtu.be/G2wAsP1biFc) and wipe it with some alcohol**. This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using.

If you haven't tried this before, you should know that:

* some brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol
* you may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape

Unless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some [test cubes](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) and possibly some [stress tests](http://www.3dbenchy.com/) as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Printing on a bare metal surface is perfectly fine. Just keep it clean. But the reason why its not working here is because the bed leveling is terrible. You can see in the video that the nozzle goes from very close to the bed to very far from the bed during the print. Also it is printing WAY to fast for it to adhere properly. Slowing down and doing a proper bed level will most certainly fix this problem :)  
> **username_3**: @Granny - thank you for the input, from your comment it seems printing on metal is similar to printing on glass (i.e.: unforgiving material).  I would argue that for a beginner it is advisable to get printing with the help of some surface prepping: much less frustration while you get to learn the ropes and appreciate what "perfectly level" means. :)  
> **username_2**: @mac I myself started printing almost 1 year ago, I just sat down for 15 min when i got the printer trying different amount of friction on the a4 paper until i had just the right squish. You don't have to be a advanced "3D printerer" to get the perfect bed leveling. If you know the perfect amount of friction, bed leveling is a easy, no matter what surface you are on :)  
> **username_3**: @Granny - yes, but I'm not the one having adhesion problems here! ;)  
> **username_2**: @mac Ik :) I was talking about it in general for everyone that considers themselves "beginners".  

---

### Answer by username_1 on 2018-02-12. Score: 1

I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print.

> **Comments:**
> **username_2**: Just buildtak or painting tape will not solve his problem. The main problem here is that his nozzle is too far away from the bed so its not getting good bed adhesion. You can make your prints stick on mostly anything if your bed is properly level.  
> **username_1**: Than an elongated nozzle should help. You can buy them from Amazon. I don't believe that the name of it is actually "elongated nozzle", but looking up 0.2 mm nozzle and scrolling through, there will be some that are vertically larger than others. That should fix the problem.  
> **username_2**: Why would buying a different nozzle be easier than just properly leveling the bed? Or is the printer that he has not equipped with a bed that can be manually leveled?  
> **username_1**: If the bed is auto-levelling then he needs to buy a nozzle from the supplier of the printer he has so that it will be the same size. If his bed can be levelled, than I don't know why he would even post this question in the first place.  
> **username_2**: He posted the question because he is a beginner. And why would he need a new nozzle if he has auto bed leveling? I have auto bed leveling on all my printers of different kinds and they all have a feature where you can calibrate the z-offset. No need to buy a new nozzle at all.  
> **username_1**: If he is a beginner who doesn't even know how to level his bed then how would he know how to calibrate for the z offset?  
> **username_2**: Because calibrating the z-offset is done through the screen of most printers. But I am 100% sure that his printer is not making use of a auto bed leveling sensor so the direction where this discussion is going is highly off topic.  
> **username_1**: Well if it isn't using an auit bed levelling sensor than it's a simple matter if either buying a longer nozzle or simply levelling the bed.  
> **username_2**: A new nozzle is never a solution for being to high above the bed because you will have to buy a perfectly sized nozzle to make a good squish on the bed. And unless you are a wizard, that won't happen. So **yes** properly leveling the bed and making sure the surface is clean is the way to resolve the issue. Maybe even slow down the layer alot aswell.  
> **username_1**: Well then it is simply a matter of bed levelling. I couldn't tell that his bed wasn't level from the start because it sounded to me like there was something actually wrong with his machine, rather than a matter if not reading the manual and knowing to level the bed.  
> **username_0**: You both are right, one problem was the tape as now a could print something with very low quality but it could grab on the bed. The second problem is the calibration, while printing I realised that the nozzle is too far away from the bed, mainly when it is not in the centre of it. I'll try to recalibrate it and see how it goes.  

---

