<p>I would screw a large nut on to the nozzle and snug it up against the tip. You can then put that large nut in a vice or hold it in Vice Grips™ (or other locking pliers) to hold it. Once you've got it firmly held, you can bring it to a grinding wheel to get it down to the length you need, or use a file by hand to shorten it.</p>
<p>If you can find 2 nuts of the proper size, you could put both of them on the nozzle and use the one further from the nozzle end as your depth stop to ensure you don't remove too much material (especially important if you're grinding on a wheel).</p>
<p>Once you've cut it down, a small bastard file will clean up the rough edges and backing the clamp nut(s) off of it should help clean up the threads where there might have been a bit of damage from cutting. If really necessary, you could clean them further with a thread chaser or die of the correct size &amp; thread pitch. You might need a <em>very</em> small needle file to clean out the inside pathways of the nozzle, as well.</p>
<p><strong>NOTE</strong>: I've never done this on a 3D printer nozzle so I can't guarantee that it'll work, but that's the approach I'd use to shorten <em>any</em> threaded &quot;thing&quot;. I have done this with all-thread rod and a variety of screws &amp; bolts to cut them down to the lengths I've needed for various projects and it works great. My major concern in this particular case it that it appears (from the pics) that there's some sort of pin in the center of the 3-lobed opening and you might cause damage to that if you're not careful.</p>
<p>Since these particular nozzles are very expensive, you might want to purchase a few really cheap ones to practice on, just to get your technique down. Once you're confident, tackle the real thing.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T07:29:53.317Z
The outer part is plated copper, the center insert is hardened steel.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T12:15:10.927Z
If the "center insert" is that little pin, I don't think a grinding wheel would struggle with that little bit of material. If the whole thing is hardened steel, then you'll just have to take your time and **keep it cool**. If you overheat it, it'll loose its temper and won't be hardened any more.
FreeMan
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T12:53:30.340Z
Sorry I posted the wrong image. Now it's correct and you can see the big center insert in hardened steel. But yes I would go slow, even if losing hardening only in the initial part would not be an issue. However the insert is quite thick so I will need something to maintain everything perpendicular to the grinding surface.
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-21T16:37:58.403Z
2024-05-21T16:37:58.403Z
FreeMan
<p>I would like to shorten by 2 mm a volcano nozzle, specifically a genuine CHT bimetallic hardened nozzle, to be used without any further adaptation in modern QIDI printers, which use proprietary nozzles, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/QIDI/comments/193jgwc/comment/l2g6o67/?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=web3x&amp;utm_name=web3xcss&amp;utm_term=1&amp;utm_content=share_button" rel="nofollow noreferrer">which are volcano minus 2 mm</a>.</p>
<p>How can I do it without having to contact a company doing CNC machining with a lathe, which would cost more than the nozzle itself, already extremely expensive?</p>
<p>The answer should not only mention tools for the removal of material while ensuring flatness and orthogonality of the end surface, but also how to keep the nozzle in position, since the thread is made of soft copper and it cannot be used for gripping.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-cht-volcano-coated-brass-nozzle/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Bondtech CHT bimetallic</a>:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/QSDuuvrn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/QSDuuvrn.png" alt="genuine CHT volcano bimetallic" /></a></p>
<p><a href="https://eu.qidi3d.com/products/q1pro-bimetal-nozzles-2pcs" rel="nofollow noreferrer">QIDI bimetallic</a>:</p>
<img src="https://i.sstatic.net/cW4722ogm.png" width="180" />
<p>I am aware that Trianglelab sells QIDI adapters to adapt a standard (&quot;short&quot;) M6 nozzle on QIDI printers, but I want a long CHT section.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T02:52:31.980Z
I was going to suggest EDM wire cutting, but FreeMan mentioned the "pin" within the nozzle. I think you are still going to have issues because that "pin" is what divides the filament into three branches to melt the filament better. If you cut down the nozzle 2 mm, then the end of that "pin" will be blunt and might not perform as designed.
agarza
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T07:28:35.757Z
@agarza well for that a handheld Dremel with a diamond round bit will do
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T07:31:24.470Z
@agarza wouldn't EDM be more expensive than giving the nozzle to a shop doing lathe work?
FarO
CC BY-SA 4.0
2024-05-22T14:24:21.053Z
I honestly don't know the cost of EDM wire cutting vs. lathe work. Having recently seen a YouTube video from CNC Kitchen on EDM wire cutting, the only factor that I thought would be of benefit would have been that there is little to no pressure from the wire doing the cutting. I still believe that the center geometry of the nozzle will change and will not perform correctly no matter what method of shortening is used. (Not an expert, just logically reasoning things out)
agarza
<nozzle>
What is the best way to adapt a volcano copper nozzle to QIDI nozzle?
FarO
# What is the best way to adapt a volcano copper nozzle to QIDI nozzle?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2024-05-21)

I would like to shorten by 2 mm a volcano nozzle, specifically a genuine CHT bimetallic hardened nozzle, to be used without any further adaptation in modern QIDI printers, which use proprietary nozzles, [which are volcano minus 2 mm](https://www.reddit.com/r/QIDI/comments/193jgwc/comment/l2g6o67/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button).

How can I do it without having to contact a company doing CNC machining with a lathe, which would cost more than the nozzle itself, already extremely expensive?

The answer should not only mention tools for the removal of material while ensuring flatness and orthogonality of the end surface, but also how to keep the nozzle in position, since the thread is made of soft copper and it cannot be used for gripping.

[Bondtech CHT bimetallic](https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-cht-volcano-coated-brass-nozzle/):

[![genuine CHT volcano bimetallic](https://i.sstatic.net/QSDuuvrn.png)](https://i.sstatic.net/QSDuuvrn.png)

[QIDI bimetallic](https://eu.qidi3d.com/products/q1pro-bimetal-nozzles-2pcs):

![](https://i.sstatic.net/cW4722ogm.png)

I am aware that Trianglelab sells QIDI adapters to adapt a standard ("short") M6 nozzle on QIDI printers, but I want a long CHT section.

**Tags:** nozzle
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: I was going to suggest EDM wire cutting, but FreeMan mentioned the "pin" within the nozzle. I think you are still going to have issues because that "pin" is what divides the filament into three branches to melt the filament better. If you cut down the nozzle 2 mm, then the end of that "pin" will be blunt and might not perform as designed.  
> **username_0**: @agarza well for that a handheld Dremel with a diamond round bit will do  
> **username_0**: @agarza wouldn't EDM be more expensive than giving the nozzle to a shop doing lathe work?  
> **username_1**: I honestly don't know the cost of EDM wire cutting vs. lathe work. Having recently seen a YouTube video from CNC Kitchen on EDM wire cutting, the only factor that I thought would be of benefit would have been that there is little to no pressure from the wire doing the cutting. I still believe that the center geometry of the nozzle will change and will not perform correctly no matter what method of shortening is used. (Not an expert, just logically reasoning things out)  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_2 on 2024-05-21. Score: 1

I would screw a large nut on to the nozzle and snug it up against the tip. You can then put that large nut in a vice or hold it in Vice Grips™ (or other locking pliers) to hold it. Once you've got it firmly held, you can bring it to a grinding wheel to get it down to the length you need, or use a file by hand to shorten it.

If you can find 2 nuts of the proper size, you could put both of them on the nozzle and use the one further from the nozzle end as your depth stop to ensure you don't remove too much material (especially important if you're grinding on a wheel).

Once you've cut it down, a small bastard file will clean up the rough edges and backing the clamp nut(s) off of it should help clean up the threads where there might have been a bit of damage from cutting. If really necessary, you could clean them further with a thread chaser or die of the correct size & thread pitch. You might need a *very* small needle file to clean out the inside pathways of the nozzle, as well.

**NOTE**: I've never done this on a 3D printer nozzle so I can't guarantee that it'll work, but that's the approach I'd use to shorten *any* threaded "thing". I have done this with all-thread rod and a variety of screws & bolts to cut them down to the lengths I've needed for various projects and it works great. My major concern in this particular case it that it appears (from the pics) that there's some sort of pin in the center of the 3-lobed opening and you might cause damage to that if you're not careful.

Since these particular nozzles are very expensive, you might want to purchase a few really cheap ones to practice on, just to get your technique down. Once you're confident, tackle the real thing.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The outer part is plated copper, the center insert is hardened steel.  
> **username_2**: If the "center insert" is that little pin, I don't think a grinding wheel would struggle with that little bit of material. If the whole thing is hardened steel, then you'll just have to take your time and **keep it cool**. If you overheat it, it'll loose its temper and won't be hardened any more.  
> **username_0**: Sorry I posted the wrong image. Now it's correct and you can see the big center insert in hardened steel. But yes I would go slow, even if losing hardening only in the initial part would not be an issue. However the insert is quite thick so I will need something to maintain everything perpendicular to the grinding surface.  

---

