<p>A quick search for your specific controller brought up the following link:
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/HICTOP_Prusa_i3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hictop wiki page</a>
in which a reference is made that some printers were shipped with incorrect firmware, specifically in error by a factor of six. If your prints are about six times larger, this may apply to you. The same page contains a link to the firmware.</p>

<p>You should also be able to "look inside" the firmware using any number of programs providing terminal access to the controller. Pronterface is one, Simplify3D (not free) is another. I'm fond of using OctoPrint, but it requires some "gymnastics" to install.</p>

<p>Once you've installed your selected software, open the terminal feature and type M503 to display the current settings. You may have to turn off some automatic terminal display features, as some controllers will repeatedly send data to the screen, causing inconvenient scrolling.</p>

<p>I attempted to locate the correct code sequence for your printer, with limited success. Consider to scan over the wiki page for the appropriate information and correlate it to your specific controller and printer:
<a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Firmware reprap codes</a></p>

<p>You'd want to confirm a specific M-code to change the stepper figure to match that which is for your printer. I've done my extruder steppers recently, which is M92 for my controller. My quick scan of the codes in the above link shows M350 might be the one for you, but don't take my word on it, get a confirmation from another source specific to your printer.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-04-21T17:55:56.623Z
I learned something so thats a bonus. It turns out there's something wrong with the stl file I was trying to print. Since another model works fine. thanks anyway.
Ageis
CC BY-SA 3.0
2017-04-21T15:12:41.217Z
2017-04-21T15:12:41.217Z
fred_dot_u
<p>I changed my original HICTOP controller for one which actually has some fuses.</p>

<p>I tried to print a part last night - the resultant print looks significantly bigger.</p>

<p>Do you need to recalibrate the stepper per unit after you've changed your controller?</p>

<diy-3d-printer>
Parts printing out bigger after changing controller
Ageis
# Parts printing out bigger after changing controller

(Asked by: username_0 on 2017-04-21)

I changed my original HICTOP controller for one which actually has some fuses.

I tried to print a part last night - the resultant print looks significantly bigger.

Do you need to recalibrate the stepper per unit after you've changed your controller?

**Tags:** diy-3d-printer

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2017-04-21. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

A quick search for your specific controller brought up the following link:
[hictop wiki page](http://reprap.org/wiki/HICTOP_Prusa_i3)
in which a reference is made that some printers were shipped with incorrect firmware, specifically in error by a factor of six. If your prints are about six times larger, this may apply to you. The same page contains a link to the firmware.

You should also be able to "look inside" the firmware using any number of programs providing terminal access to the controller. Pronterface is one, Simplify3D (not free) is another. I'm fond of using OctoPrint, but it requires some "gymnastics" to install.

Once you've installed your selected software, open the terminal feature and type M503 to display the current settings. You may have to turn off some automatic terminal display features, as some controllers will repeatedly send data to the screen, causing inconvenient scrolling.

I attempted to locate the correct code sequence for your printer, with limited success. Consider to scan over the wiki page for the appropriate information and correlate it to your specific controller and printer:
[Firmware reprap codes](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code)

You'd want to confirm a specific M-code to change the stepper figure to match that which is for your printer. I've done my extruder steppers recently, which is M92 for my controller. My quick scan of the codes in the above link shows M350 might be the one for you, but don't take my word on it, get a confirmation from another source specific to your printer.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: I learned something so thats a bonus. It turns out there's something wrong with the stl file I was trying to print. Since another model works fine. thanks anyway.  

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