<p>There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation:</p>
<ul>
<li>Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film.</li>
<li>Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might be the only option to remove the last bits sticking to the film. If you have to resort to this, <strong>take your time</strong>.</li>
<li>Using thermal expansion. We all know that materials expand when you heat them. The reverse is also true: materials shrink if you cool them. Different materials shrink differently. So by cooling the vat with as little liquid resin and the print inside can lead to the print 'popping' free, just like in an FDM printer. Note however that this might not work on its own in case you made a suction cup (then you need to resort to brute force or drill a hole into the top), and you should take <strong>extreme caution not to contaminate any food with resin</strong>, as the stuff is not safe for consumption at all. With the right setup, you might be able to heat the build plate carefully while the print itself is kept cool.</li>
</ul>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-15T17:04:34.460Z
The freezer works, and I have a plastic box I use to avoid food contamination, courtesy of my better half. I am going to try compressed air next, as a way to bring thermal expansion.
0xF2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-15T20:18:00.373Z
actually you'd use cooling-contraction :)
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-21T10:01:08.610Z
I found another convenient approach: while rinsing the print to remove residual resin, I wash the print with cold water, and immerse it in the same in a takeout-food box dedicated to the purpose. I then rinse the printing plate with really hot water. The difference loosens the print enough to make its removal much easier.
0xF2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-21T10:30:02.113Z
@0xF2 oh my! That's thermal shock too, but different direction!
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T03:33:47.633Z
I don’t think compressed air is going to change the temperature of your part, unless you know different.  Do you expect the temperature to go up or down?
Frog
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T08:06:37.577Z
@Frog compressed air can act as a coolant
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T09:58:09.990Z
@Trish It can, but only if the air is cooler than the object being cooled, or in a situation where the air pressure is dropping, such as a venturi.  I don’t think that’s what the OP is proposing
Frog
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T10:09:24.870Z
@Frog well, in most cases the air pressure of air coming from a compressor *has* the pressure dropping form.. 2 bar to 1 bar, meaning it usually cools rapidly. heating with compressed air can be done if you have the air carry some kind of granulate (sandblasting) which then transforms a lot of kinetic energy into heat energy in the part
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T10:17:07.197Z
That is true, but the kinetic energy is partially converted to heat as the air meets the surface.  It’s not an effective method of cooling in this context (i.e. lowering the temperature of an object significantly below ambient.
Frog
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-29T10:33:10.700Z
@Frog depending on air pressure and impact angle. As said, it can, but is not always.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-15T10:20:21.233Z
2020-11-21T10:31:41.630Z
2020-11-21T10:31:41.630Z
Trish
<p>I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-14T13:59:24.037Z
Being wary of getting any resin anywhere you don't want it, can you put the bed+print in a fridge for an hour or so?
Andrew Morton
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-14T19:58:37.900Z
Very carefully :D
user77232
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-14T21:03:01.923Z
The freezer did it, but the thermal shock broke the print (and I still needed a spatula!). Perhaps the fridge is indeed the way to go... trying that with the second round.
0xF2
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-08-15T10:11:26.057Z
Nomenclature ERror: it's an LCD printer. not an LED
Trish
<resin><creality-ld-002r>
How do I remove a stuck resin print
0xF2
# How do I remove a stuck resin print

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-08-14)

I have stuck resin print that won't detach from the bed of my Creality LD-002R LCD Printer. I guess I could break the print off piece by piece, but it won't budge with pressure, pulling with all my strength, or even hitting it pretty hard.

**Tags:** resin, creality-ld-002r
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Being wary of getting any resin anywhere you don't want it, can you put the bed+print in a fridge for an hour or so?  
> **username_2**: Very carefully :D  
> **username_0**: The freezer did it, but the thermal shock broke the print (and I still needed a spatula!). Perhaps the fridge is indeed the way to go... trying that with the second round.  
> **username_3**: Nomenclature ERror: it's an LCD printer. not an LED  

---

## 1 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2020-08-15. Score: 2 | Accepted answer

There are generally 3 ways, in order of least to most desirable, and at times you need to combine them in an escalation:

* Toss the vat. This is the most expensive and generally should only be the last resort, for example, if you damage your film.
* Careful Brute Force. This can damage the film, but carefully getting a wedge between the film and the print might be the only option to remove the last bits sticking to the film. If you have to resort to this, **take your time**.
* Using thermal expansion. We all know that materials expand when you heat them. The reverse is also true: materials shrink if you cool them. Different materials shrink differently. So by cooling the vat with as little liquid resin and the print inside can lead to the print 'popping' free, just like in an FDM printer. Note however that this might not work on its own in case you made a suction cup (then you need to resort to brute force or drill a hole into the top), and you should take **extreme caution not to contaminate any food with resin**, as the stuff is not safe for consumption at all. With the right setup, you might be able to heat the build plate carefully while the print itself is kept cool.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: The freezer works, and I have a plastic box I use to avoid food contamination, courtesy of my better half. I am going to try compressed air next, as a way to bring thermal expansion.  
> **username_3**: actually you'd use cooling-contraction :)  
> **username_0**: I found another convenient approach: while rinsing the print to remove residual resin, I wash the print with cold water, and immerse it in the same in a takeout-food box dedicated to the purpose. I then rinse the printing plate with really hot water. The difference loosens the print enough to make its removal much easier.  
> **username_3**: @0xF2 oh my! That's thermal shock too, but different direction!  
> **username_4**: I don’t think compressed air is going to change the temperature of your part, unless you know different.  Do you expect the temperature to go up or down?  
> **username_3**: @Frog compressed air can act as a coolant  
> **username_4**: @Trish It can, but only if the air is cooler than the object being cooled, or in a situation where the air pressure is dropping, such as a venturi.  I don’t think that’s what the OP is proposing  
> **username_3**: @Frog well, in most cases the air pressure of air coming from a compressor *has* the pressure dropping form.. 2 bar to 1 bar, meaning it usually cools rapidly. heating with compressed air can be done if you have the air carry some kind of granulate (sandblasting) which then transforms a lot of kinetic energy into heat energy in the part  
> **username_4**: That is true, but the kinetic energy is partially converted to heat as the air meets the surface.  It’s not an effective method of cooling in this context (i.e. lowering the temperature of an object significantly below ambient.  
> **username_3**: @Frog depending on air pressure and impact angle. As said, it can, but is not always.  

---

