<p>Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:</p>

<ol>
<li><p>Use a wider brim.</p></li>
<li><p>If the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.</p></li>
<li><p>If the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level.  </p></li>
<li><p>Slowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down.  This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping.  </p></li>
<li><p>A hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force.  </p></li>
</ol>

<p>200&nbsp;°C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick.  I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T22:07:29.970Z
Well, I didn't put any brim as I thought the surface didn't need it. But I can indeed increase the temperature of the first layer. And reducing the speed of the print is a good idea. I also think that increasing the temperature of the bed is a good idea.
Emile D.
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T23:30:21.237Z
The sides will bulge if you get the bed too hot.  That's why people use a hotter temperature on the first layer.  Larger prints can have hotter beds because the longer print time for a layer allows it to cool more.
Perry Webb
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-23T16:07:28.900Z
6. Use an adhesive between the glass and the print object; e.g. glue stick, strong hairspray or a dedicated product like 3DLAC.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T00:05:32.487Z
2019-04-22T06:43:30.200Z
2019-04-22T06:43:30.200Z
Perry Webb
<p>Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier <em>on your first layer only.</em> As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used. </p>

<p>Hope that helps!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T16:07:42.907Z
Indeed, it does, on several level! I am quite new with printing on glass, and I thought it was used because it is easier to get better print with them. Mostly when it comes to sticking the first layer.
Emile D.
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-25T00:45:04.440Z
2019-04-25T00:45:04.440Z
Levi Giesbrecht
<p>I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a>. This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65&nbsp;°C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2&nbsp;mm for a 85&nbsp;mm diameter print.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/O7rCP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/O7rCP.jpg" alt="Print warping"></a></p>

<p>I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200&nbsp;°C.</p>

<p>What could be wrong?
The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T04:01:08.797Z
Use an adhesive between the glass and the print such as glue stick, strong hair spray or a dedicated product like 3DLAC to prevent warping.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T17:33:53.297Z
i get that if my printing room is windy. If I put a couple pieces of cardboard along the printer to block some/most of the breeze it gets better. You don't need a full enclosure, but try stacking some books or something along the flank and see if it helps. It might also just need more hairspray; your glass looks pretty clear instead of frosty.
dandavis
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T20:25:10.667Z
Glass is not a great conductor of heat.  If you have an IR temperature meter, put some masking tape on the bed and measure it.  You might need to increase the heater temperature to keep the glass hot enough.
cmm
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T22:01:56.683Z
@dandavis That is a good point. I didn't know that I needed to add hairspray on the glass. I though that the cleaner it was, the better it is. Thus, I tend to clean it with windows cleaner. But my room is not windy, and the flat tends to be quite hot with everything. But I could try to make a small enclosure. I think I neglected how imported it is.
Emile D.
CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-04-22T22:04:56.527Z
@cmm Indeed, that is a good point. However, I tried with higher temperature before, and I add sign of too high temperature, as the first layers where "swollen", thus I reduced a bit the temperature. But the conduction to the glass in my setup is really poor. I should try to improve it! I am not sure how I would do that though...
Emile D.
<print-quality><prusa-i3><warping>
PLA print warping on heated bed
Emile D.
# PLA print warping on heated bed

(Asked by: username_0 on 2019-04-21)

I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625). This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65 °C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2 mm for a 85 mm diameter print.

[![Print warping](https://i.sstatic.net/O7rCP.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/O7rCP.jpg)

I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200 °C.

What could be wrong?
The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.

**Tags:** print-quality, prusa-i3, warping
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Use an adhesive between the glass and the print such as glue stick, strong hair spray or a dedicated product like 3DLAC to prevent warping.  
> **username_2**: i get that if my printing room is windy. If I put a couple pieces of cardboard along the printer to block some/most of the breeze it gets better. You don't need a full enclosure, but try stacking some books or something along the flank and see if it helps. It might also just need more hairspray; your glass looks pretty clear instead of frosty.  
> **username_3**: Glass is not a great conductor of heat.  If you have an IR temperature meter, put some masking tape on the bed and measure it.  You might need to increase the heater temperature to keep the glass hot enough.  
> **username_0**: @dandavis That is a good point. I didn't know that I needed to add hairspray on the glass. I though that the cleaner it was, the better it is. Thus, I tend to clean it with windows cleaner. But my room is not windy, and the flat tends to be quite hot with everything. But I could try to make a small enclosure. I think I neglected how imported it is.  
> **username_0**: @cmm Indeed, that is a good point. However, I tried with higher temperature before, and I add sign of too high temperature, as the first layers where "swollen", thus I reduced a bit the temperature. But the conduction to the glass in my setup is really poor. I should try to improve it! I am not sure how I would do that though...  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-04-22. Score: 2

Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:

1. Use a wider brim.
2. If the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.
3. If the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level.
4. Slowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down. This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping.
5. A hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force.

200 °C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick. I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Well, I didn't put any brim as I thought the surface didn't need it. But I can indeed increase the temperature of the first layer. And reducing the speed of the print is a good idea. I also think that increasing the temperature of the bed is a good idea.  
> **username_4**: The sides will bulge if you get the bed too hot.  That's why people use a hotter temperature on the first layer.  Larger prints can have hotter beds because the longer print time for a layer allows it to cool more.  
> **username_1**: 6. Use an adhesive between the glass and the print object; e.g. glue stick, strong hairspray or a dedicated product like 3DLAC.  

---

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-04-25. Score: 1

Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier *on your first layer only.* As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used.

Hope that helps!

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Indeed, it does, on several level! I am quite new with printing on glass, and I thought it was used because it is easier to get better print with them. Mostly when it comes to sticking the first layer.  

---

