<p>You have more than one problem going on. As for the print lifting up, that could be for a multitude of reasons. Clearly better bed adhesion is required. It also appears the printer stopped printing at one layer. Now for the charred part, I think it could've been caused by the nozzle staying in one area for too long (possibly when the printer stopped printing.). This causes the plastic touching the nozzle to overheat and burn up. The charred section can usually be pulled off pretty easily. However, since it definitely appears you have more than one issue here you should pursue some research (perhaps other questions on the site) on the matter.</p>

<p>Hope this helps!</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-30T02:32:40.623Z
2018-12-30T02:32:40.623Z
Rafael
<p>1) You have a layer shift. I guess the shift is caused by an <em>overheating</em> stepper driver, because it started relatively late, but could be also a mechanical issue.</p>

<p>2) Print bed adhesion is a minor problem. Just test your printer with a simpler shape (large ground area).</p>

<p>3) After carbonization, your nozzle might be clogged. Make sure there is an even extrusion.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-01-30T12:28:38.093Z
2019-01-30T12:37:36.033Z
2019-01-30T12:37:36.033Z
dgrat
<p>I have a guess and a suggestion. It looks like your bottom most layer is ver thick. Even though most people suggest thick first layer, if it is thicker than 0.25 for 0.4 nozzle it cannot reliably squeeze the plaatic so that it would stick to the bed. I prefer lowering z height in the software (Slic3r allows this) to squish the first layer. </p>

<p>Another suggestion I would make is to set bed temperature to 55. 60c is glass tranaition temperature of PLA. At that temperature, PLA softens and if you have even the slightest over extrusion, the pressure from nozzle can topple tall objects.</p>

<p>And for charring you may want to print a little colder. Not all thermistors are equal and printing too hot causes lots of quality issues. I personally print around 170-180c. If you have layers separating, you are printing too cold. You might want to print some calibration pieces to find parameters for your printer.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2019-02-01T06:36:33.863Z
2019-02-01T06:36:33.863Z
Cem Kalyoncu
<p>I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.
I'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200&nbsp;&deg;C extruder and 60&nbsp;&deg;C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that. 
Although the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HPXGJVT" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">FYSETC magnetic bed plate</a> which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50&nbsp;&deg;C&nbsp;-&nbsp;80&nbsp;&deg;C.</p>

<p>When I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.</p>

<p>I also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?</p>

<p>Here's what was printed
<a href="https://i.sstatic.net/2eMLy.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/2eMLy.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-28T18:10:00.627Z
Please share your other print settings, like temperature, material bed temperature, print speed....
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-28T19:36:19.063Z
Do you have a spare thermosensor or an IR thermometer, so you can check the temperature of the modified heatbed's surface?
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-28T23:06:05.743Z
@Trish I don't but I understand what you're getting at. What if I just increase my build plate temperature to 80C?
kane
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-28T23:28:05.577Z
measuring it would be better, maybe moving the bed thermosensor. If you want to experiment, *carefully* increase the print temperature in 5 °C steps
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-29T07:57:11.003Z
Basically, this question is identical to your [*Why does my model stop printing at the same spot?*](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7774/why-does-my-model-stop-printing-at-the-same-spot). This is still the same printing object. The other question should be updated and this one could be closed.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-29T12:44:41.873Z
otherwise, you might want to add how this is different from the other problem.
Trish
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-29T19:35:46.383Z
yes, same model, but for this one, I was wondering if the charring meant anything specific. The other print did not have charring
kane
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-30T07:15:45.290Z
The charring comes from left over burned filament that is stuck to outside of the hotend, it got transferred when the nozzle hit it. This is not a separate issue.
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-12-30T21:59:20.740Z
ok, since I was able to get a successful print, I think this issue can be closed too
kane
<print-quality><troubleshooting><monoprice-maker-select>
My print failed and looks charred
kane
# My print failed and looks charred

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-12-28)

I started a print on my Monoprice Select v2 and let it run.
I'm printing with Dikale PLA at 200 °C extruder and 60 °C build plate temperatures. My initial layer speed is 30mm/s then 60mm/s after that.
Although the Monoprice comes with an aluminum build plate, I put on a [FYSETC magnetic bed plate](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07HPXGJVT) which says it's suitable for PLA printing between 50 °C - 80 °C.

When I returned home, the print had been lifted off the build plate. I used a brim and even applied magigoo gluestick to help it stick but that didn't do the trick.

I also noticed it's charred at one corner. Any idea of what this might be a symptom of?

Here's what was printed
[![enter image description here](https://i.sstatic.net/2eMLy.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/2eMLy.jpg)

**Tags:** print-quality, troubleshooting, monoprice-maker-select
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Please share your other print settings, like temperature, material bed temperature, print speed....  
> **username_1**: Do you have a spare thermosensor or an IR thermometer, so you can check the temperature of the modified heatbed's surface?  
> **username_0**: @Trish I don't but I understand what you're getting at. What if I just increase my build plate temperature to 80C?  
> **username_1**: measuring it would be better, maybe moving the bed thermosensor. If you want to experiment, *carefully* increase the print temperature in 5 °C steps  
> **username_2**: Basically, this question is identical to your [*Why does my model stop printing at the same spot?*](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7774/why-does-my-model-stop-printing-at-the-same-spot). This is still the same printing object. The other question should be updated and this one could be closed.  
> **username_1**: otherwise, you might want to add how this is different from the other problem.  
> **username_0**: yes, same model, but for this one, I was wondering if the charring meant anything specific. The other print did not have charring  
> **username_2**: The charring comes from left over burned filament that is stuck to outside of the hotend, it got transferred when the nozzle hit it. This is not a separate issue.  
> **username_0**: ok, since I was able to get a successful print, I think this issue can be closed too  

---

## 3 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2018-12-30. Score: 1

You have more than one problem going on. As for the print lifting up, that could be for a multitude of reasons. Clearly better bed adhesion is required. It also appears the printer stopped printing at one layer. Now for the charred part, I think it could've been caused by the nozzle staying in one area for too long (possibly when the printer stopped printing.). This causes the plastic touching the nozzle to overheat and burn up. The charred section can usually be pulled off pretty easily. However, since it definitely appears you have more than one issue here you should pursue some research (perhaps other questions on the site) on the matter.

Hope this helps!


---

### Answer by username_4 on 2019-01-30. Score: 0

1) You have a layer shift. I guess the shift is caused by an *overheating* stepper driver, because it started relatively late, but could be also a mechanical issue.

2) Print bed adhesion is a minor problem. Just test your printer with a simpler shape (large ground area).

3) After carbonization, your nozzle might be clogged. Make sure there is an even extrusion.


---

### Answer by username_5 on 2019-02-01. Score: 0

I have a guess and a suggestion. It looks like your bottom most layer is ver thick. Even though most people suggest thick first layer, if it is thicker than 0.25 for 0.4 nozzle it cannot reliably squeeze the plaatic so that it would stick to the bed. I prefer lowering z height in the software (Slic3r allows this) to squish the first layer.

Another suggestion I would make is to set bed temperature to 55. 60c is glass tranaition temperature of PLA. At that temperature, PLA softens and if you have even the slightest over extrusion, the pressure from nozzle can topple tall objects.

And for charring you may want to print a little colder. Not all thermistors are equal and printing too hot causes lots of quality issues. I personally print around 170-180c. If you have layers separating, you are printing too cold. You might want to print some calibration pieces to find parameters for your printer.


---

