<p>The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer.
It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer.</p>
<p>The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 &quot;silent board&quot;, designed for printers such as the non-Pro CR-10 series. It features two 10-pin connectors for the LCD screen.
It also uses individual connectors for all functions, so, contrary to the &quot;Pro&quot; boards, is also easily swappable with aftermarket boards.</p>
<p>A third type of board (e.g. v1.1.5) exists, mostly for the Ender 3 series of printers, which features only one 10-pin connector for the display.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T14:48:03.500Z
2020-11-26T14:48:03.500Z
towe
<p>When trying to solve the issue described <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14738">in this post</a> I followed the advice in the accepted answer and I found that the timing pulley holes for the Y axis (to &quot;secure&quot; the pulley to the motor shaft) were only half drilled (!!!). I suppose that everything worked fine (even without blind screws) for the first month (probably because the belt was extremely tight) but just a bit of wearing and it started to slip.</p>
<p>While I already replaced the pulley I also contacted the Creality technical support to obtain (at lest! funny...) a reassurance that it didn't possibly stressed the belt or the bearing balls. My experience with their technical support has been <strong>horrible</strong> and I am still waiting (after weeks) my answer (probably it's easier for them to try to ignore their sloppy assembly and QA) but they sent me a procedure to follow to &quot;debug&quot; any issue with my printer.</p>
<p>One of the pictures in that procedure is this:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/mUW46.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/mUW46.jpg" alt="What the CR-10S Pro V2 motherboard seems to be" /></a></p>
<p>To my surprise this is the motherboard I have:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.sstatic.net/UpiGS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.sstatic.net/UpiGS.jpg" alt="What my motherboard looks like" /></a></p>
<p>Now I am puzzled. Which one is the correct motherboard for the Creality CR-10S Pro V2 (not the <em>old</em> version but the <em>newer</em> V2)?
Is this just [another] sloppy mistake from the technical support or I do have the <em>wrong</em> motherboard? Differences with V1 are not many then I suppose it could even work with the old one...</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T13:57:58.583Z
Your appears to be the standard v2.4 board, which is correct for the Pro printers.

The picture they send you is from a board for the normal CR-10 models (and Ender series), which do not feature the evil 30-pin connector of the Pro.
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T14:40:03.200Z
@towe thank you! Could you please post it as an answer? That pretty much answers my question!!!
Adriano Repetti
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T14:50:49.580Z
Done. As for your original issue, those little potentiometers can be found on your board as well, and should work similarly to how they described it in your mail. The "lower left" drivers in your picture should be responsible for the Y axis, and the potentiometer can be used to adjust the steppers current / power. Since your pulley was identified as the main issue, I however would not bother adjusting that if you don't encounter different issues.
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T15:39:03.570Z
@towe yes, I just followed the labels on the cables and the values were what they said so I didn't need to change anything. Real issue seemed to be the timing pulley and I've already replaced that (_slightly_ disappointed by the tech support but that's another story...maybe I just expect too much from a product of this price)
Adriano Repetti
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T15:41:00.303Z
You'll get used to that level of "tech support". Except to identify and fix the issues yourself (or with the help of the community). Manufacturer support is mostly for getting the occasional free replacement part if they messed something up.
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T15:47:13.883Z
I had that _impression_. Sic. What I really dislike about it is that they're using the Community as free labour. While an active and competent community could help, I believe that it should complement - not replace - the service we paid for (which could be, at very least, a decent and comprehensive official documentation!)
Adriano Repetti
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T15:49:50.293Z
Guess that's a shift in expectations everybody will go through. Unlike with any other customer product, I realized you're pretty much buying the hardware, and the hardware alone. No software (because it's open source anyway), no real support. Some manufacturers do "give back" more than they "take" though, Prusa and BIQU come to mind. Others mostly "take" (Creality, Tronxy, Sunlu)
towe
CC BY-SA 4.0
2020-11-26T15:59:47.233Z
I am starting to understand that. In future I will surely support more "balanced" manufacturers. for now I'll need to stick with what I have and keep vampirising the Community for help (with the hope to be able to help back, sooner or later).
Adriano Repetti
<creality-cr-10><part-identification>
Is this the correct motherboard for my Creality CR-10S Pro V2?
Adriano Repetti
# Is this the correct motherboard for my Creality CR-10S Pro V2?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2020-11-25)

When trying to solve the issue described [in this post](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14738) I followed the advice in the accepted answer and I found that the timing pulley holes for the Y axis (to "secure" the pulley to the motor shaft) were only half drilled (!!!). I suppose that everything worked fine (even without blind screws) for the first month (probably because the belt was extremely tight) but just a bit of wearing and it started to slip.

While I already replaced the pulley I also contacted the Creality technical support to obtain (at lest! funny...) a reassurance that it didn't possibly stressed the belt or the bearing balls. My experience with their technical support has been **horrible** and I am still waiting (after weeks) my answer (probably it's easier for them to try to ignore their sloppy assembly and QA) but they sent me a procedure to follow to "debug" any issue with my printer.

One of the pictures in that procedure is this:

[![What the CR-10S Pro V2 motherboard seems to be](https://i.sstatic.net/mUW46.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/mUW46.jpg)

To my surprise this is the motherboard I have:

[![What my motherboard looks like](https://i.sstatic.net/UpiGS.jpg)](https://i.sstatic.net/UpiGS.jpg)

Now I am puzzled. Which one is the correct motherboard for the Creality CR-10S Pro V2 (not the *old* version but the *newer* V2)?
Is this just [another] sloppy mistake from the technical support or I do have the *wrong* motherboard? Differences with V1 are not many then I suppose it could even work with the old one...

**Tags:** creality-cr-10, part-identification
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: Your appears to be the standard v2.4 board, which is correct for the Pro printers.  The picture they send you is from a board for the normal CR-10 models (and Ender series), which do not feature the evil 30-pin connector of the Pro.  
> **username_0**: @towe thank you! Could you please post it as an answer? That pretty much answers my question!!!  
> **username_1**: Done. As for your original issue, those little potentiometers can be found on your board as well, and should work similarly to how they described it in your mail. The "lower left" drivers in your picture should be responsible for the Y axis, and the potentiometer can be used to adjust the steppers current / power. Since your pulley was identified as the main issue, I however would not bother adjusting that if you don't encounter different issues.  
> **username_0**: @towe yes, I just followed the labels on the cables and the values were what they said so I didn't need to change anything. Real issue seemed to be the timing pulley and I've already replaced that (_slightly_ disappointed by the tech support but that's another story...maybe I just expect too much from a product of this price)  
> **username_1**: You'll get used to that level of "tech support". Except to identify and fix the issues yourself (or with the help of the community). Manufacturer support is mostly for getting the occasional free replacement part if they messed something up.  
> **username_0**: I had that _impression_. Sic. What I really dislike about it is that they're using the Community as free labour. While an active and competent community could help, I believe that it should complement - not replace - the service we paid for (which could be, at very least, a decent and comprehensive official documentation!)  
> **username_1**: Guess that's a shift in expectations everybody will go through. Unlike with any other customer product, I realized you're pretty much buying the hardware, and the hardware alone. No software (because it's open source anyway), no real support. Some manufacturers do "give back" more than they "take" though, Prusa and BIQU come to mind. Others mostly "take" (Creality, Tronxy, Sunlu)  
> **username_0**: I am starting to understand that. In future I will surely support more "balanced" manufacturers. for now I'll need to stick with what I have and keep vampirising the Community for help (with the hope to be able to help back, sooner or later).  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_1 on 2020-11-26. Score: 1 | Accepted answer

The board that's installed in your machine appears to be the Creality v2.4 / v2.4.1 board, which is the correct board for your printer.
It is distinguishable by the 30-pin ribbon connector, which is used to connect to the rest of the printer.

The board in the tech support pictures is the v2.5.2 "silent board", designed for printers such as the non-Pro CR-10 series. It features two 10-pin connectors for the LCD screen.
It also uses individual connectors for all functions, so, contrary to the "Pro" boards, is also easily swappable with aftermarket boards.

A third type of board (e.g. v1.1.5) exists, mostly for the Ender 3 series of printers, which features only one 10-pin connector for the display.


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