<p>I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly. </p>

<p>Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-08-06T06:56:32.290Z
2018-10-11T11:43:18.783Z
2018-10-11T11:43:18.783Z
Granny
<p>I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.</p>

<p>Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and <a href="https://colorfabb.com/pa-cf-low-warp-679" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp</a> with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.</p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-07-26T18:46:43.527Z
2018-10-11T11:46:03.070Z
2018-10-11T11:46:03.070Z
0scar
<p>So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. </p>

<p>It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. </p>

<p>I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. </p>

<p>I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. </p>

<p>I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. </p>

<p>Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?</p>

<p>Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. </p>

CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-14T19:04:39.063Z
do you have the filament feed in a teflon tube to extruder? maybe it bends extensively and extruder has trouble to pull?
profesor79
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-14T21:36:40.783Z
Is your extruder stepper getting really hot?
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T00:57:43.660Z
I had a similar issue, but probably not your issue. Either way, in case it is, I would check the wiring for the extruder. Maybe when it reaches a certain height, a fault in the wire itself causes disconnects and hence a extruder stopping/being weak. I tested by pulling/dancing the wires as I manually set extrusion. Seemed to stop when wires were stretched. Sounds weird but I redid my wiring and the extruder wouldn't start acting up halfway through anymore. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck.
Athanasios Karagiannis
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T06:36:47.873Z
@profesor79 I have a small guide tube going into the E3D up until the bottom bit of the extruder stepper. I doubt it will be bending because the spool is literally above it. Also why would it bend on roughly the same spot everytime? Not that its not possible ill check for it anyway.
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T06:37:07.803Z
@0scar I am not sure, ill have to check that tonight.
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T06:38:13.557Z
@AthanasiosKaragiannis Ill check that tonight. But the extruder is defenitely not weak when this happends, it twists and bends my whole mount with it. But I do have the wires ziptied to the frame, maybe in a wrong way. Thanks :)
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T18:40:36.003Z
@0scar So i just made a test print. The stepper reaches a max temp of around 35 degrees. Which I do not believe is too hot.
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T19:15:24.317Z
@Granny, nope that is very cool!
0scar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-15T21:20:35.360Z
@Granny according the noise and slips I'm sure that the spiral heatbreak is the problem because that part need to be cold not warm, the cooling fan must be active all time at 100%.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-16T06:50:46.953Z
@FernandoBaltazar Maybe my wording was a bit wrong. It is as good as cold but I can feel a slight warmth. Its not hot its not super warm, i would say roughly around the 20/30 degrees.
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-16T16:12:24.387Z
@Granny Can you upload an image to see how is installed your E3DV6? every thing close to the motor extruder.
Fernando Baltazar
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-22T07:20:45.503Z
@FernandoBaltazar I currently do not have a photo of anything. But I did however solve my problem. The heatbreak was a all-metal variant. For some odd reason my printer did not like this one bit. I solved it by using one with PTFE tube inside the heatbreak.
Granny
CC BY-SA 4.0
2018-05-22T18:09:03.250Z
@Granny Is nice to know that you solved your problem. I'm will add this kind of problem on the troubleshooting as well.
Fernando Baltazar
<extruder><anet-a8>
Extruder prints fine up until further down the print
Granny
# Extruder prints fine up until further down the print

(Asked by: username_0 on 2018-05-14)

So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me.

It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there.

I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot.

I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug.

I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before.

Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?

Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase.

**Tags:** extruder, anet-a8
> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: do you have the filament feed in a teflon tube to extruder? maybe it bends extensively and extruder has trouble to pull?  
> **username_2**: Is your extruder stepper getting really hot?  
> **username_3**: I had a similar issue, but probably not your issue. Either way, in case it is, I would check the wiring for the extruder. Maybe when it reaches a certain height, a fault in the wire itself causes disconnects and hence a extruder stopping/being weak. I tested by pulling/dancing the wires as I manually set extrusion. Seemed to stop when wires were stretched. Sounds weird but I redid my wiring and the extruder wouldn't start acting up halfway through anymore. Let us know if you figure it out. Good luck.  
> **username_0**: @profesor79 I have a small guide tube going into the E3D up until the bottom bit of the extruder stepper. I doubt it will be bending because the spool is literally above it. Also why would it bend on roughly the same spot everytime? Not that its not possible ill check for it anyway.  
> **username_0**: @0scar I am not sure, ill have to check that tonight.  
> **username_0**: @AthanasiosKaragiannis Ill check that tonight. But the extruder is defenitely not weak when this happends, it twists and bends my whole mount with it. But I do have the wires ziptied to the frame, maybe in a wrong way. Thanks :)  
> **username_0**: @0scar So i just made a test print. The stepper reaches a max temp of around 35 degrees. Which I do not believe is too hot.  
> **username_2**: @Granny, nope that is very cool!  
> **username_4**: @Granny according the noise and slips I'm sure that the spiral heatbreak is the problem because that part need to be cold not warm, the cooling fan must be active all time at 100%.  
> **username_0**: @FernandoBaltazar Maybe my wording was a bit wrong. It is as good as cold but I can feel a slight warmth. Its not hot its not super warm, i would say roughly around the 20/30 degrees.  
> **username_4**: @Granny Can you upload an image to see how is installed your E3DV6? every thing close to the motor extruder.  
> **username_0**: @FernandoBaltazar I currently do not have a photo of anything. But I did however solve my problem. The heatbreak was a all-metal variant. For some odd reason my printer did not like this one bit. I solved it by using one with PTFE tube inside the heatbreak.  
> **username_4**: @Granny Is nice to know that you solved your problem. I'm will add this kind of problem on the troubleshooting as well.  

---

## 2 answers

### Answer by username_0 on 2018-08-06. Score: 4 | Accepted answer

I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly.

Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break.


---

### Answer by username_2 on 2018-07-26. Score: 1

I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.

Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and [ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp](https://colorfabb.com/pa-cf-low-warp-679) with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.


---

