EVERY WOMAN'S
Home
Cook Book

<img>A circular seal with an eagle holding an olive branch and arrows, above "LIBERTY OF CONGRESS" and below "1800".</img>
Class TX-7165
Book P398
Copyright No 1

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT

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EVERY WOMAN'S HOME COOK BOOK

AN ECONOMICAL, PRACTICAL GUIDE FOR THE TWENTIETH CENTURY HOUSEKEEPER

CONTAINING

A Most Complete Collection of the Best Culinary Receipts with Full Instructions for Successfully Using Them

<img>A stylized illustration of a housekeeper's apron.</img>

COMPILED BY FLORENCE CROSBY PARSONS

The L. W. Walter Company PUBLISHERS Chicago

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  <tr>
    <td>Taxi</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Pass</td>
  </tr>
</table>

COPYRIGHT 1911
BY
THE L. W. WALTER COMPANY
CHICAGO

<img>C LA306939</img>

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE.

In offering the American Housewife and Mother, this New Receipt Book we believe we are making a demand. There are many works on this subject, but most of them contain receipts which are too expensive for the average home and so that the price even of such guides will rarely be welcomed. We have not attempted displays; our only aim being to furnish wise counsel.

The fact that there is a recognized need of a new book treating on Scientific and Hygienic Cooking; one that will prove an aid to health and happiness in each household: hence, the production of this volume. It has been prepared with great care, every recipe has been tried and tested, and careful attention has been given to the selection of the best materials.

It embodies several original and commendable features, among which may be mentioned a menu for each meal of the year, also for special occasions, showing all the dishes required for each; a supplement has been given to the "Cooking Dish," that useful adjunct to the lunch table, the small evening gathering, or light housekeeping. A treatise on Hygienic and Scientific Cooking. Care of the Sick. Medical receipts for the domestic department of medicine have received their due share of attention. The convenient classification and arrangement of topics and the simplified method of explanation in preparing these recipes by means of manipulation enables the most inex- perienced to clearly comprehend it.

Economical and modern methods of living have been paramount in the compiler's mind in designing and preparing this work, consequently, he has endeavored to prepare a cookery manual which will feed and house their families on a moderate allowance. To these housekeepers, these home-builders, it is that such books as this are dedicated, and among these it is that they find their welcome. Not sought in the home where comfort is enjoyed, but sought in those homes where comfort is lacking there are many such guides it is that each new arrival comes as a herald of something better and more helpful in the realm of cookery. And meet it is that all possible help be given to those who feed our bodies, for thereby we feed our souls, and uplift our souls also.

Sayrs Harvey Holt Cahoon: "Ask a woman what cooking means. It means the patience of Job, and the persistence of the Pilgrim Fathers. It means the preparation of food for manna from heaven, the loaves of Arc. It means the steaming, and the stewing, and the baking, and the broiling, thrice daily, springs, summers, autumns, and winters, year after year, decade following decade. It means perspiration, desper- ation, tears, and sweat. It means that she must be able to an estate in heaven. From her judgment and reason the cook must evolve triumphs that depend upon salt and pepper, sugar and herbs. She must know how soon and how long and how much and how often. She must know when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when to use salt alone; when to use pepper alone; when to use both together; when

"Man cannot live by bread alone,"
He wants his menu good.
He wants a wife who's not above
Preparing dainty food.

The way, then, to the hearts of men
(Man's not the only sinner)
Is by a cleanly, well-set board,
And by a well-cooked dinner.

"Good cooks are born, not made," they say,
The saying's most untrue,
Hard trying, and these prime recipes
Will make good cooks of you.

E. H. C.

<img>A cartoon of a man in a hat holding a loaf of bread.</img>
# BREAD

THE motto of the New York Cooking Academy is: "Since we must eat to live, let us prepare our food in such a manner that our physical, intellectual and moral capacities may be extended as far as desired by our Creator," and with this object in mind, bread, as the "staff of life," will be first considered, and especial attention given to its great variety and the necessary processes through which it passes in preparation for use.

Flour made from wheat, and meal from oats and Indian corn, are rich in the waste-repairing elements, starch and albumen, and man is necessarily dependent upon them to a degree much greater than commonly supposed.

Wheat and flour contain gluten in different proportion to the many varieties. Flour in which gluten abounds will absorb more liquid than that which contains a greater amount of starch, and is therefore stronger, that is, will make more bread to a given quantity. Gluten is a flesh, and starch a heat producer, in the nutritive processes of the body.

Neither gluten nor starch dissolve in cold water. Gluten is a grayish, tough, elastic substance, and flour containing it in a fair quantity adheres to the hand when compressed, and shows the imprint of the skin, but starchy flour crumbles and lacks the adhesive property.

Milk or water used in mixing bread softens the gluten and coments the particles of flour, preparatory to the action of the carbonic acid gas. In bread made from yeast this gas and alcohol are formed by the fermentation of the yeast, combining with the

<page_number>8</page_number>
BREAD.

sugar in the flour as well as the sugar added to the flour. The expansion, caused by the efforts of the gas to escape through the strong elastic walls of the cells of gluten, changes the solid dough into a light, spongy mass. The kneading process distributes the yeast thoroughly through the dough, making the grain firm and even.

In baking, the heat breaks the starch cells, renders the gluten tender, converts the water into steam, the alcohol into vapor, and increases the size of the loaf through the expansion of the carbonic acid gas, though one-sixth of its weight is lost by this evaporation. It is now "food convenient" for all.

Opinions differ as to the comparative merits of fine flour, graham, and entire wheat flour bread. That made from the former gains its whiteness and fineness at the expense of its nutritious properties, the part of the grain furnishing them being largely eliminated through the special manufacturing process, but bread made wholly or in part from the two latter varieties is proportionately nourishing, strengthening, and easily digested.

The common or "straight" brands of flour are used by the great majority of families, and from each of them good, palatable and uniform bread can be made. Good bread makes the homeliest meal acceptable, and there is no one thing so necessary to the health and comfort of a family. In selecting flour buy that of a cream tint, that will not work into a sticky mass when dampened by the fingers, that will not fall like powder if thrown against a smooth surface, and that will retain, as before stated, the impression of the hand when compressed within it.

Flour should be kept dry, cool, and entirely beyond the reach of vermin, big or little, for the tiny meal moth is far more to be dreaded than rats or mice. Buy at first, if possible, a barrel of flour; the barrel will prove a good investment for the future, as all smaller purchases of flour can be emptied into it. Let it stand on four blocks of wood, thus ensuring a current of fresh air beneath it.

Do not buy less than one hundred pounds, for cleanliness and economy's sake, unless obliged to use the flour and meal bins built into many pantries of the modern houses. If so, buy a

BREAD.
<page_number>9</page_number>

smaller amount, as these bins, being more difficult to care for, need frequent attention. Every receptacle of flour should be often and thoroughly cleaned, to guard against animal as well as vegetable parasites. Never put into the flour, for even a day, a roll of dough or pastry for later use. A single speck of mold, coming from any cause, will leaven the whole flour as rapidly and strongly as ten times its weight in yeast.

All kinds of flour and meal, except buckwheat and graham—and graham, if very coarse—need sifting, and should be bought in small quantities, as they become damp and musty by long standing. After sifting flour or meal, be very careful to empty the sieve before putting it back into the barrel or bin.

Good flour, good yeast and watchful care are indispensable to successful bread-making. A large, seamless tin pan, with handles and a tight-fitting cover, should be kept for bread-making only; and thoroughly washed and scalded whenever used. A crockery bowl holding from eight to twelve quarts can be used, if preferred, but must be closely covered by a well-folded cloth.

Bread should undergo but one, the saccharine or sweet fermentation; if it passes to the second, the vinous or alcoholic fermentation, the larger part of the nutritions properties of the flour are destroyed; if it reaches the third, or acetous stage, the bread is sourd and utterly unfit for use. Never use sour yeast. The temperature of the bread in rising should be blood warm ; if less, it is liable to sour; if greater, it may be scalded, or become full of large pores and lose its firm, smooth grain. It is as important for the dough to rise as well after being made out into loaves, rolls, or biscuits as before; therefore allow a sufficient time for rising, and cover over the tops of the pans with a bread-cloth, removing it a few moments before baking. A good general rule to follow is this: If well kneaded down, let the loaf double its size in rising; if only partially kneaded, let it rise but one-half. Much depends on the flour, the heat of the day and the previous rising, but personal judgment and experience must guide at this point as well as others.

Before putting the loaves into the oven prick them in three places with a steel fork, that part of the gas generated in rising

<page_number>10</page_number>
BREAD.

may escape and prevent the possibility of too great expansion in baking, which would make the texture of the bread coarse and open instead of smooth and fine. In baking, keep the oven at a uniform temperature, except that the heat may slacken a very little toward the last. The oven is of good heat if flour will brown in it at the end of a minute.

The best pan for baking bread is made of Russia iron, which costs but little more than tin, and is much more durable. Let it be five by ten or twelve inches on the bottom, flaring a little to the top, and four and one-half inches deep. It should be well, though lightly, greased. One hour is the average time for baking, though much depends on the action of the stove. See that the fire is so regulated as not to need replenishing during the hour.

The finest bread may be completely spoiled in the baking, and a freshly-made fire cannot be easily regulated. Open the oven door as seldom as possible, and close it carefully. If necessary, the pan may be gently turned around, after twenty minutes. The heat of the oven should be steady, but if from any cause it becomes too great put a pan of cold water on the upper slide, or turn a pan over the loaf, or cover it with a piece of clean, brown paper. A slide, or a low, flat tin may be put under the pans.

If bread or cake is well and sufficiently baked, there will be no sound of cracking in the loaf when quickly held to the ear; a broom splinter passed into it will come out as dry and free as at first. A loaf can be held on the hand without burning the palm. The bread will also have the odor of fresh, sweet flour.

On a clean shelf or table, near the window, lay a well-folded linen cloth, an old table-cloth will serve nicely, and as the well browned loaves come from the oven, either lay them upon it or slightly tip them, one just touching the other, and leave them uncovered till cool. If preferred, a cloth can cover them. Never, on any account, put the warm loaves on wood or stone.

Should the bread be baked too hard, rub the loaf with fresh butter; then cover it with a clean brown paper, laying a cloth over that.

When thoroughly cool, the bread must be put into a close-covered stone jar, or tin box, which should be well scalded and dried

BREAD.
<page_number>11</page_number>

each baking day. If a jar is used tie a heavy linen cloth, twice folded at least, over the top, which should be some inches above the bread. On a hot, windy day in summer, having considerable unused bread on hand, take a cup of cold water, and sprinkle well the cloth, so that the bread may be kept fresh and moist. If a heavy line of chalk is drawn around the jar, no insects will crawl over it. In cutting warm bread for the table, heat the knife, and it is better to replenish the bread plate than to have slices left over to dry or waste.

Rolls and biscuit should bake quickly. Baking powder and soda biscuit should be made rapidly, placed in hot pans, and put into a quick oven. Let gem pans be well heated and greased. If stone cups are to be used, see that they are well greased and very hot.

Be very careful to use the best baking powder, and always sift it with the flour. Use bi-carbonate of soda, not saleratus, in cooking. Take two parts of cream of tartar to one of soda, if sweet milk is used in cooking. Free the powder from lumps, and either sift well the cream of tartar and soda with the flour, or the cream of tartar alone, and dissolve the soda in the milk by beating it for one minute. Soda should be dissolved in the same manner in sour milk. Always use yellow corn meal in every recipe where meal is called for, unless the white is specified.

In measuring, a *tablespoon* is the size of an ordinary silver tablespoon. A teaspoon means a spoon rounded above, as the bowl is below; a heaping spoon what can be added to the rounded measure, and a level measure is just even with the sides of the spoon. A half teaspoon divides the length and not the breadth of the spoon. A salt spoon is equivalent to one quarter of a teaspoon. One cup of yeast is equivalent to one yeast cake.

*Whenever, in this book, the words cupful, coffee cupful, tea cupful, table-spoonful, etc., occur, the termination "ful" is dropped, for the sake of brevity.*

<page_number>12</page_number>

YEAST.

YEAST is naturally a most unstable sort of commodity, but its main characteristic is that upon the very slightest provocation it will rise. During one week it contradicted its usual methods and shrunken in a most amazing way. One Saturday it sold for twenty cents a pound, the next Monday it sold for five cents a pound, and in a few days rose again to twenty cents a pound. Investigation into the cause of the fluctuation in price revealed the existence of a double-riveted trust, which controls the price of yeast and holds it at a figure which pays the members of the trust a handsome profit. A pound of yeast cut into squares wrapped in tinfoil will make forty cakes, which are sold by the manufacturer at one cent each and retail for two cents. The consumer of this yeast then pays eighty cents a pound. The profit is sixty-eight cents, of which the retailer makes forty and the manufacturer twenty-eight cents. Compressed yeast is made from whiskies, vinegars, and low wines, and could be retailed at fifteen cents a pound, with a fair margin of profit for manufacturer and retailer.

It is economy, therefore, to use homemade yeast. Here are a few good recipes:

YEAST—1.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart sliced potatoes,</td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 large handful hops,</td>
    <td>⅓ cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon ginger,</td>
    <td>⅓ cup salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts water.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put hops and ginger in a bag to boil 15 minutes. Then take out hops, and add potatoes. Boil till they can be passed easily through a sieve. Mix with the salt, sugar and water in a jar. When cool add yeast, tie a cloth over the top and set in a warm place to rise. This yeast will keep good three weeks in a cool place.

YEAST—2.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 potatoes, medium,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Small handful hops,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon ginger,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
    <td>Water to make 2 quarts.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the ginger and hops into a bag, drop into the boiling water; let boil for 15 minutes. Cook the potatoes, mash, and mix

YEAST.
<page_number>13</page_number>

them well with the flour to which has been added the sugar and salt. Over all pour the boiling hop water, and beat till the mixture is smooth. Turn into a stone jar, and when cool add the yeast. Set in a warm place to rise. This will be sweet and good for some weeks if kept in a cool, dark place. Omit the hops, use the boiling ginger water to scald the flour, and this rule makes a nice potato yeast.

No other yeast is made with so little trouble as potato yeast. Bread made from it keeps moist longer, and there is no danger of injuring its flavor by using too much.

YEAST—3.

6 potatoes, medium,
¼ cup sugar,
¼ cup yeast,

Boil potatoes till done, mash very fine or press through a sieve, pour on the water they were boiled in, add the sugar and salt, and when lukewarm stir in the yeast. It should now be quite thin; let rise, and keep in a cool place, but where it will not freeze. A large cupful makes eight or nine loaves of bread.

YEAST—4.

6 potatoes,
Small handfuls hops,
¼ cup yeast,

Tie the hops in a bag and boil with the potatoes in 2 quarts of water. Take out potatoes, mash fine and pour the water over them ; add salt, molasses, and thickened with flour. When cool, add yeast or 1 yeast cake dissolved in water. Cover, and set near the fire. Keep in a jar in a cool place. This must not freeze.

YEAST—5.

6 potatoes,
2 tablespoons salt,
1 cup flour,

Put the hops into a bag and boil 15 minutes. Pour the hop water over the flour, add the potatoes, having rubbed through a colander. Stir well after adding sugar and salt; when cool, add yeast or a yeast cake, which has been soaked. This yeast keeps well two weeks.

1 tablespoon salt,
1 tablespoon salt,
2 tablespoons molasses,
2 quarts water.

1 handful hops,
1 cup yeast,
¼ cup sugar,

1 quart water.

**RECIPES FOR MAKING BREAD.**

MOTHER'S BREAD.

Put about 2 quarts of flour into a pan, and pour boiling water over it until nearly all the flour is wet. Stir the flour while pouring in the water. Now add 1 pint of cold water, and beat well. Let it stand until lukewarm, then add 1 cup of No. 1 yeast, butter the size of an egg and $\frac{1}{2}$ teaspoon soda, and flour to make a stiff batter. Turn it out on the moulding board and work in more flour by slashing it with a sharp knife. Slash and add flour, and knead until the dough is stiff and smooth. Too much flour cannot be worked into it. Let it stand until morning, then knead it down without removing it from the pan. After breakfast, turn it out on the board, and knead it for 10 minutes, then put it back and let it rise as much as possible without smelling like wine, then make it into loaves. When the loaves are light, they should be put into a hot oven, which is allowed to cool gradually until the bread is done. Bread made in this way will keep fresh a long time.

BREAD RAISED ONCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart water,</td>
    <td>1 pint potato yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 quarts flour,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

To make 3 loaves of bread, sift the flour into the pan, add salt and pour in slowly the water, lukewarm; afterward add yeast, stirring constantly. If hop yeast is used take 1 cup, or, if preferred, 1 cake compressed yeast dissolved in tepid water. Mix

<page_number>14</page_number>

BREAD.
<page_number>15</page_number>

thoroughly, adding flour, until a stiff dough is formed; place on the bread-board, knead vigorously for 20 minutes or more, flouring the board frequently to prevent the dough from sticking to it, divide into loaves of a size to suit pans, mould into a comely shape, place in pans, rub over the top a light coating of sweet, drawn butter, set in a warm, not too hot place to rise, cover lightly to keep off dust and air, watch and occasionally turn the pans around when necessary to make the loaves rise evenly; when risen to about double the original size, draw across the top of each lengthwise with a sharp knife, making a slit half an inch deep, place them in a moderately heated oven, and bake 1 hour, watching carefully from time to time to make certain that a proper degree of heat is kept up. Before browning they will rise to double the size of loaf which was placed in the oven, and pans must be provided deep enough to retain them in shape. Bake until well done and nicely browned. Nothing adds more to the sweetness and digestibility of wheaten bread than thorough baking. When done, remove from pans immediately, to prevent the sweating and softening of the crust.

BREAD RAISED TWICE.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>4 quarts flour,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint water,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 cup yeast.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Measure out the flour, take out a pint in a cup, and place remainder in a breadpan. Make a well in the middle, into which turn sugar, salt, and yeast; then mix in milk which has been made bloodwarm by adding the boiling water; beat well with a strong spoon, add lard, knead for 20 or 30 minutes, and let rise over night; in the morning knead again, make into loaves, let them rise 1 hour, and bake 50 minutes. Water may be used instead of the pint of milk, in which case use twice as much lard.

BREAD RAISED THREE TIMES.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 pints water,</td>
    <td>½ cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>8 potatoes,</td>
    <td>½ cup lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

In planning for 6 loaves, begin about 5 p. m. Take yeast,

<page_number>16</page_number>
BREAD

No. 2, add the flour and tepid water, beat together thoroughly, and set in a warm place. This should rise in about 2 hours ; and when nearly light, take 6 or 8 medium sized potatoes, pare neatly, rinse clean, and boil in 3 pints of water till well done, mash very fine in the water while hot. Have a bread-pan of sifted flour, into which put salt, sugar, and lard ; then riddle the potato mash, hot as is, through a sieve or fine colander into the flour, and stir into a stiff dough. This scalds about half the flour used in the batch of bread. This mass must cool till it will not scald the yeast, which may now be mixed in and put in a warm, not hot, place for second rising, which will be accomplished by morning, when the kneading may be done. Kneading is the finest point of breadmaking, and contains more of the art than any other; it requires skill, time, patience, and hard work. Work in flour no faster than is required to allow thorough kneading, which cannot be done in less than 45 minutes, but should not be worked much over an hour. The working of the dough gives grain and flakiness to the bread. The dough should be soft, not sticky, and stiff enough to retain its roundness on the board. Put back into the pan for the third rising, which will require little time, and, when light, cut off enough for each loaf by itself, knead but little, and put into pans. If the first kneading has been well done, no more flour will be necessary in making the loaves. These must rise till nearly as large as they ought to be, and then put into a well-heated oven. From 40 to 60 minutes will cook it. If the yeast is set at 5 p. m., the bread will be ready for dinner the next day; if in the morning, the baking will be done early in the evening, or 12 hours after, with good yeast and fair temperature. Bread made in this way will be good for a week, and, with fair weather and careful keeping, even for two weeks.

HOP-YEAST BREAD.
3 pints warm water,
Make a thin sponge of the yeast, water and flour, and let it remain till quite light. Knead into a loaf before going to bed ; in the morning, mould into 3 loaves. When light, bake an hour. Bread made in this way is never soggy or heavy. To have
1 teacup yeast

BREAD.
<page_number>17</page_number>

fine, light biscuit, add the lard or butter at night, and in the morning make into biscuit and bake for breakfast. By this recipe bread is baked early, leaving the oven free for other articles.

YEAST AND BREAD TOGETHER—1.

On the evening before breakingmack day, peel and boil 2 medium sized potatoes ; mash them in the water in which they were boiled, and pour the mixture, boiling hot, into the breadpan into which has been put 2 tablespoons flour and 1 each of salt and sugar. The yeast should be as thin as gruel. Now strain it through a colander, and when it has cooled a little, add a small cup of yeast and set it in a warm place to rise. In the morning, sift flour into the breadpan, make a hole in the middle, pour in the yeast, and partially stir it into the flour. Add a quart of lukewarm water with a teaspoon salt dissolved in it, then stir until stiff enough to knead. Knead it 15 minutes, then put it into the breadpan, which must be dusted with flour ; put another pan over it, and set it where it will rise slowly, as bread that has been hurried is not so good. If it becomes stiff on top before it is light, cover it with a cloth dipped in warm water. When light enough, the pan will lift easily and not as if it held a dead weight; then it must be turned on to the breadboard, kneaded quickly and lightly into a long roll and cut into loaves. The less the loaves are kneaded and the less flour added, the better the bread will be. When the tins begin to feel quite light, the bread is ready to bake. The oven should be quite hot at first, and allowed to cool off gradually while the bread is baking, but the fire must not get very low until the bread is done, which will be in about 40 minutes. When the bread is baked, put a plate in a pan, turn the bread on to it and cover with another pan ; when it is cool, raise the pan, wipe off the steam, and replace it, keeping it there until used up.

YEAST AND BREAD TOGETHER—2.

Use about a pint of mashed potatoes ; strain them through a colander, with the water in which they are boiled, into a vessel containing about a pint of flour. After this is well stirred, and cooled until lukewarm, add 2 tablespoons of the yeast and set the sponge in a warm place to rise. It will usually be light in about

<page_number>18</page_number>
BREAD.

6 hours, and should be made into a sponge in the regular way by adding warm water and flour. When this second sponge has risen, mix it into dough. This method takes a great deal of time, but makes the best bread. These directions are for white bread, but graham bread may be made in the same way, by adding molasses, a little shortening, and graham flour instead of white when mixing the second sponge.

Empty the mashed potatoes left from dinner into it, but do not stir it up until the yeast is soaked. Let it soak until night, then stir it up and add warm water, a tablespoon each of sugar and salt, and sift in flour enough to make a stiff batter. Beat this well, and set in a warm place over night. Mix as early as possible in the morning, and be sure to knead it a good while, 20 minutes at least, so that makes smooth, white bread.

Grease the bottom and sides of a crock with lard, the same one the sponge was made in—use a crock, because when it gets warm it retains the heat better than any tin or wooden ware, and the dough does not dry and form a crust on the outside—and let it rise, then knead again. If kneaded properly the first time, so as to have the dough stiff enough, knead it a very little this time. Let it rise again, and mould into leaves, and bake when light enough. If homemade yeast is preferred, it can be used just as well. By following these directions, good bread can be secured without the trouble of cooking potatoes on purpose, and having more dishes to wash.

GRANDMA'S BREAD.

Set the bread at night, and if kept warm it is ready to mix early in the morning. Knead down 2 or 3 times before putting it into the pans. Never take the dough from the pan when kneading it, but press it down gently to get out the gases, and, at the last, give a few "doublets" to pull in the edges, then turn it over. When putting it in the pans, cut off enough dough for a loaf, roll it with the hands until it is a foot in length; roll this up and press it together in the shape of a loaf, and when it is baked it will be in layers, light and featherly, and not full of tiny holes. Just as the leaves begin to brown, brush them quickly with sweet milk, and the crust will be tender and delicious.

BREAD.
<page_number>19</page_number>

COFFEE BREAD.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>I quart flour,</td>
    <td>½ cup sugar, cup white</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1½ cups warm milk,</td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup stoned raisins,</td>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¾ cup butter,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon cinnamon.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Measure the flour before sifting, then sift, add sugar, and rub in the butter. Mix in the yeast, add the milk, and knead for 15 minutes. Cover, and let rise all day. In the evening add the egg, well beaten, and knead thoroughly. Cover well, and let rise all night. Stir in the cinnamon and raisins in the morning. Make up, using as little flour as possible. Let rise to the top of the pan, and bake an hour in a moderate oven. This makes a large loaf.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>MILK BREAD.</td>
    <td>1 cup sugar,<br>½ cup butter.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts milk,<br>3 quarts flour,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Scald fresh, sweet milk, and, when cool, make a sponge of the flour in which the butter has been rubbed. If rolls are wanted, add sugar when mixing it. Let stand until light, add flour enough to knead thoroughly. Let rise again, work over as before, and mould into the desired shape. If the dough is kept in an earthen vessel and covered with tin, it will not need greasing while rising. Always butter the top of the dough when it is put into the pans to rise, and do not cover with a cloth when baked.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>BREAD WITHOUT KNEADING.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,<br>2 tablespoons butter.</td>
    <td>¼ cup yeast.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Warm the butter in the milk, do not let it become hot, add yeast when sufficiently cool, stir in all the flour possible with a spoon. Beat well, pour into pans, let rise and bake at once.

WINTER BREAD.

To make light bread in winter, on the day before baking have mashed potatoes for dinner. When the potatoes are cooked, drain the water into a crock or bowl and set it away to cool. When dinner is over put a cake of yeast foam, or as much dry yeast of any kind as used at a baking, in the potato water.

<page_number>20</page_number>
BREAD.

RICE BREAD.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups warm milk,</td>
    <td>7 cups flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup butter,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¾ cup yeast,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 heaping cup boiled rice.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

If the rice is cooked in milk, use the same day and cool before using. If cold, and hard or lumpy, add a little milk and set the bowl into a basin of hot water on the stove, stirring until smooth. Do not let it become more than lukewarm. Rub the butter and sugar together, stir in the eggs, previously well beaten, 2 cups of flour, milk, and the rest of the flour; then add the rice and yeast, and beat well together for 10 minutes. Cover closely, and let rise over night. This quantity makes two small loaves, and should rise in the pans about 1½ hours, or above the top of the pan. Do not have a very hot oven, as this bread browns quickly.

POTATO SPONGE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 potatoes,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 cups flour,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
    <td>1 quart tepid water.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil and mash potatoes ; while hot add sugar, butter and flour. Beat to a smooth batter and stir in the yeast. Let rise over night. Knead vigorously for 15 minutes in the morning. Set away, and, when light, knead and mould into medium sized loaves. Let rise and bake.

POTATO BALL BREAD.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup mashed potatoes,</td>
    <td>1 cake yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Soften the yeast cake in as little water as possible, then add to the potato, with which the sugar and salt have been thoroughly mixed. It will be ready for use in two days in winter—sooner in summer. Keep it in a covered bowl. Mix bread sponge with 2 quarts of warm milk or water, and add half the potato ball. Let rise, and proceed as with other bread. To the other half of the ball, add a cup of potatoes, stirring thoroughly, and set away until the next baking day. If the sponge freezes it will not be injured. This method is pronounced a superior one.

BREAD.
<page_number>21</page_number>

SALT RISING BREAD—1.

Put 1 teaspoon salt into 1 pint water, stirring in enough flour to make a thin batter. Keep warm. If set at 6 a. m., it should commence to rise about 11 o'clock. Let stand until it foams all over the top. Then add a pint of fresh milk warmed, and knead into loaves immediately. Bake as soon as risen, and you will not be troubled with any disagreeable odors.

SALT RISING BREAD—2.

½ cup corn meal,
1 pint warm water,
1 saltspoon soda,

3 quarts flour.

The evening before baking, scald the corn meal with enough sweet milk to make a moderately stiff batter. If set in a warm place this will be light in the morning. Add the water, soda, and sufficient flour to make quite stiff. Place in a pan of warm water to rise. For 5 loaves take 3 quarts of flour; add butter, salt, sugar and the sponge with water enough to make a stiff dough. Mould into loaves, let rise, and bake 45 minutes. Much depends on keeping the batter warm and the stove properly heated.

SALT RISING BREAD—3.

On the evening before baking day, pour about half a cup of boiling hot new milk on one tablespoon of corn meal, stir it well and let it stand in a warm place over night. It will not rise but will look light and foamy. In the morning make salt rising as usual, and add the prepared meal to it. Place the dish in a kettle of warm water, and keep it at an even temperature until the sponge is light, which will be in about two hours. The bread can be baked before noon.

BREAD WITH BUTTERMILK.

The evening before baking, bring 2 quarts sweet buttermilk to the boiling point, or boil sour milk and take the same quantity of the whey, and pour into a crock in which 1 small cup flour has been placed. Let stand till sufficiently cool, then add yeast, and flour to make a thick batter; the better and longer the sponge is stirred the whiter will be the bread. In the morning sift the flour into the breadpan, pour the sponge in the center, stir in

<page_number>22</page_number>
BREAD.

some of the flour, and let stand until after breakfast; then mix,
kneading for about half an hour, the longer the better; when
light, mould into loaves, this time kneading as little as possible.
The secret of good bread is having good yeast, and not baking
too hard. This makes four loaves and forty biscuit.

BAKING POWDER BREAD.
1 quart flour,
3 teaspoons baking powder,
2 tablespoons butter,
1 teaspoon salt.

Sift the baking powder and salt into the flour; the sifting en-
sures thorough mixing. Before wetting the flour, see that the
oven is rather quick; that is, rather hotter than that required for
bread; if the hand can be held in the oven while 15 can be counted
rapidly, the heat will be about right. Also butter the baking
pan. These preparations being made, chop into the flour butter
or good lard, and pour in sufficient water or milk to just moisten
the flour. The tops of the loaves should be brushed with butter
or milk; no kneading is required; as soon as the flour is wet put
it at once into buttered pans, and bake it as rapidly as possible
without burning. As the rising of the carbonic acid gas which is
freed from the wet baking powder is what makes the dough light,
it is important to fix the dough before the gas can escape. The
process of making light biscuit or bread from baking powder is
purely a mechanical operation, based upon the formation of these
air, or rather gas cells, in the dough. If, as the gas forces its
way up through, forming the cells, they can be fixed with heat so
that their shape is retained after the dough is baked, it cannot fail
to be light. If, on the other hand, the gas is allowed to escape
before the dough is fixed by heat during baking, there is no rea-
son why it should be light.

Let this simple statement of facts be remembered, and the
dough made with baking powder be baked before the gas can es-
cape, and there will be no complaint of heavy bread or biscuits.
The flavor will, of course, depend upon the amount and kind of
shortening used, and the brushing before baked. This recipe
makes one medium loaf of bread.

BREAD.
<page_number>23</page_number>

VIENNA BREAD—1.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>6 or 7 cups flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt butter in hot milk. Measure milk after scalding and put in the mixing bowl with butter, sugar and salt. When cool, add yeast, and then stir in flour, adding it gradually after 5 cups have been put in, in order to be only stiff enough to knead. Knead till smooth and elastic. Cover; let rise till light; cut it down; divide into 4 parts and shape into loaves. Let rise again in the pans; bake 45 or 50 minutes.

VIENNA BREAD—2.

Take the same proportions of the preceding recipe, except that about one less cup of flour is used, and the dough is not kneaded. Mix it with a knife, cutting it through and turning and working it over until all the dry flour is mixed with the other materials. Mix soft enough to be shaped into loaves after it has risen. Scrape the dough from the sides of the bowl; smooth the top with a knife; cover and let rise. Shape into loaves, and when light bake 50 minutes.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD—

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup rye meal,</td>
    <td>2 cups milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup Indian meal,</td>
    <td>1 cup molasses,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup graham flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 dessert spoon soda.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Use sour milk, if possible, and if necessary 1 cup of water can be substituted for 1 cup milk; add molasses, New Orleans or Porto Rico preferred, soda and salt. Into this stir the meal and flour, pour into a well-greased form or covered pail, put into a kettle of boiling water, and cook 3 hours. This may appear too thin, but do not add anything more. The bread should not fill the pail over two-thirds full. See that the water does not boil over the pail; also take care that it does not boil entirely away, or stop boiling. To serve it, remove the cover, set a few moments into the oven to dry off the top, and it will turn out in shape.

<page_number>24</page_number>
BREAD.

**BOSTON BROWN BREAD—2.**
3 cups sour milk,
2 cups corn meal,
2 cups graham or rye meal.
Mix thoroughly and steam 3 hours. Brown in the oven.

**KANSAS BROWN BREAD.**
1 cup corn meal,
1 cup white flour,
1 cup graham flour.
Steam it 4 or 5 hours and set it in the oven a few minutes to brown.

**BROWN JO BREAD.**
2 cups corn meal,
2 cups white flour,
1 teaspoon soda.
Mix well and steam 3 or 4 hours, then bake half an hour.

**STEAMED BROWN BREAD—1.**
1 pint sour milk,
1 pint corn meal,
1 pint white flour.
Mix well and steam 3 hours. This is well worth trying.

**STEAMED BROWN BREAD—2.**
1 heaping teaspoon soda,
3 cups corn meal,
1 cup flour or rye meal,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon salt.

Mix thoroughly together, and steam 3 hours, then dry it off in the oven.

**BROWN LOAF.**
3 cups corn meal,
1 cup flour,
3 cups sweet milk.
Butter a deep mold, and steam 3 hours. This can be made the day before, then steamed for half an hour in the morning when wanted, which makes it as nice as if just made. Another good way is to mix, and set it in a very slow oven to remain all night where it will bake slowly. The fire must be turned off carefully for the night, so that the oven will not get hot, but do not

\(\frac{1}{4}\) cup molasses,
1 dessert spoon soda,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon salt.

\(\frac{1}{4}\) cup sour milk,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) cup molasses,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon salt.

\(\frac{1}{4}\) cup sour milk,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) cup molasses,
\(\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon salt,

\(\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon soda.

BREAD.
<page_number>25</page_number>

let it go out entirely. The loaf will be nicely baked for break-
fast. Be sure to remove from the oven, when you build up a hot
fire in the morning.

**BROWN BREAD.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 cups corn meal,</td>
    <td>2½ cups sour milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup graham flour,</td>
    <td>1 heaping teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup molasses,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Steam 3 hours, and brown half an hour in the oven.

**CORN BREAD.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>7 pints corn meal,</td>
    <td>1 pint molasses,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 pints rye flour,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Skimmed milk,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Let this mixture be stiff enough to drop compactly from the spoon. Dust rye flour over the top of the loaves and pat smooth.
Bake about 4 hours in a slow oven.

**BREAD WITH MUSH.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts mush,</td>
    <td>1 coffee cup molasses,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart sponge,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Pour hot corn meal mush, made as for eating, over the flour,
wheat or graham; whe cool, add sponge, molasses, salt and soda.
Mix well together, add flour if necessary; knead thor-
oughly, make into small loaves, let rise and bake in a moderate
oven.
When done, rub over with butter, place on the side, wrap
in a cloth, and when cold put in a jar or box. This recipe makes
three good-sized loaves and keeps moist longer than all-graham
bread.

**"ENTIRE WHEAT" FLOUR BREAD.**

Add 1 tablespoon sugar to 3 cups bread sponge and stir in
"entire wheat" flour, graham can be used if desired, until the
dough is sufficiently stiff to put into a well-buttered pan. Let
rise and bake 1 hour. This is a nice, easy recipe, and makes one
loaf.

**TENNESSEE EGG BREAD.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 cups buttermilk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups corn meal,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon lard,</td>
    <td>1 egg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Bake brown and quickly.

<page_number>26</page_number>
BREAD.

**GRAHAM BREAD—1.**

1 pint graham flour,
1 pint white flour,

Warm water to mix.
Mix soft, put in deep round tins, well buttered, and when light, bake slowly.

**GRAHAM BREAD—2.**

1 cup molasses,
1 cup yeast,

Stir in enough graham flour to make a soft dough ; pour it into well-greased pans, let rise 1 hour, then steam 1 hour, after which put into the oven and bake half an hour. This will make two medium-sized loaves.

**GRAHAM BREAD.**

1 quart warm water,
¼ cup brown sugar,

Thicken the water with unbolled flour to a thin batter; add sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more flour until quite stiff. In the morning add a small teaspoon soda and flour enough to make the batter stiff as can be stirred with a spoon ; put it into pans and let rise again ; then bake in even oven, not too hot at first; keep warm while rising; smooth over the loaves with a spoon or knife dipped in water.

**QUICK GRAHAM BREAD.**

3 cups sour milk,
2 teaspoons soda,

Dissolve the soda in a little hot water before stirring into the milk, add molasses, salt, and as much graham flour as can be stirred in with a spoon ; pour in well-greased pan, put in oven as soon as mixed, and bake 2 hours.

**BUTTERMILK GRAHAM BREAD.**

1 pint yeast,
2 quarts sweet buttermilk.

Scald the buttermilk; sweet milk or water can be used if neces-
sary, let cool, add salt, homemade yeast, and make the sponge
with white flour. When risen, mix with graham flour, knead, let
rise, knead down, let rise again, and knead into separate loaves.
When risen to double its size, it is ready for the oven. Let it

1 pint bread sponge,
1 teaspoon salt,

½ cup yeast,
¼ teaspoon salt,
1 quart warm water,
¼ cup brown sugar,
1 teaspoon salt,

¼ cup molasses,
1 teaspoon salt.

BREAD.
<page_number>27</page_number>

Take 45 minutes. [Many consider bread nicer with less kneading.
—End.]

RYE BREAD.

1 pint corn meal,
1 quart warm water.

Thicken the water with rye flour and add yeast. Scald the corn meal and when cool stir into the sponge, adding more rye flour until thick enough to knead. Knead but little, let rise, mould into small loaves, let rise and bake. Wheat sponge may be used instead of rye.

RYE BREAD.

Make sponge as for wheat bread, let rise over night, then mix it up with the rye flour (not so stiff as wheat bread), and bake.

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.

1 quart rye meal,
2 quarts Indian meal,
1 cup yeast,

$\frac{3}{4}$ cup molasses,
1 teaspoon soda,
2 teaspoons salt.

Scald the meal by pouring just enough boiling water over it to wet it, stirring constantly, do not make a batter, then add molasses, soda, salt and yeast. Make as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm water, and let rise all night; then put in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold water, let it stand a short time, and bake 5 or 6 hours. If put in he oven late in the day, let it remain all night. Graham flour may be used instead of rye meal.

BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES.

The civilized man cannot live without cooks" and the wise, intelligent cook finds her opportunity in such preparation for the morning meal as shall conduce to the best results during the day; the food should be as healthful and appetizing, as the table dainty and inviting in its appointments. Thought and care, waiting on knowledge, provide for these, though the purse be low and the materials few and coarse. A wide latitude is given in the opportunity of selection, from mush to waffles, biscuits to johnnycakes, rolls to crullers, gems to pancakes, but there is only one healthful way of preparation, although these articles vary in their respective ability to nourish the body. Raised biscuit, rolls and muffins,

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>RYE BREAD.</td>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.</td>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cup molasses,<br>1 teaspoon soda,<br>2 teaspoons salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<page_number>28</page_number>
BISCUITS.

being small, need to rise very light before baking, as the heat acts immediately upon them, and prevents but little further expansion from the confined gas. They require a hotter oven than is needed for bread, but not so hot as for soda or baking powder biscuit.
Full directions are given in most of the recipes, but it will be helpful to bear these general ones in mind.

Handle soda and baking powder biscuit as little and as rapidly as possible. With sour milk use soda, with sweet milk baking powder, or soda and cream of tartar. For one quart of flour take three teaspoons baking powder, or one of soda to two of cream of tartar. Buy the pure bi-carbonate of soda and cream of tartar from a reliable drug store, and use the best baking powder. There are many powders on the market, but avoid those known to have alum, ammonia or such deleterious substances in their composition. Though a little longer time is required when using soda and cream of tartar than baking powder, they certainly seem more in accordance with health. Soda, or raised biscuit, rolls, bread and cake, when stale, can be refreshed by plunging them into cold water and putting into a hot oven for ten or fifteen minutes. They should be used immediately. Gem pans, muffin rings, pop-over cups and waffle irons should be greased and heated very hot before using.

The genuine English griddle muffin is never considered cooked until it has been split and toasted. A very delicious breakfast dish is the yeast muffin, baked in the oven and served immediately. This is the New England method.

RAISED BISCUITS—1.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint hot milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
    <td>1 egg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Dissolve butter in the milk; when lukewarm stir in the beaten egg, salt, yeast and flour. Work the dough until smooth. If winter, set in a warm place; if summer, in a cool one to rise. In the morning work softly and roll out one-half inch and cut into biscuit and set to rise for 30 minutes, when they will be ready to bake. These are delicious.

BISCUITS

<page_number>29</page_number>

QUEEN'S BISCUITS.

1½ pounds flour,
1½ pounds powdered sugar,
Crushed coriander seed.

Make a soft paste of the flour, sugar, and eggs, adding a little coriander seed, also a little yeast if desired. Bake on paper in a moderate oven till they begin to brown.

ROCK BISCUITS.

1 pound powdered sugar,
½ pound flour,

6 eggs,
Currants.

Beat the eggs till very light, add the sugar, then the flour gradually, and finally the currants. Mix well together, put the dough on the tins with a fork, making it look as rough as possible. Bake in a moderate oven from 20 minutes to half an hour. When cool, store them away in a dry place.

SAVOY BISCUITS.

1 pound flour,
1 pound powdered sugar,

3 tablespoons water,
15 eggs.

Beat the eggs with the water, adding gradually the sugar. When it becomes thick, stir in the flour. Mould into long cakes and bake slowly.

SUGAR BISCUITS.

1½ pints flour,
½ pint milk,
1 cup sugar,

1 tablespoon lard,
1 teaspoon salt,
2 eggs,
2 teaspoons baking powder.

Mix into smooth batter and drop into tins. Bake in a hot oven 8 or 10 minutes.

MAPLE SUGAR BISCUITS.

1 quart flour,
2 tablespoons butter,
3 teaspoons baking powder or cream of tartar and soda.

Whatever is used to lighten the biscuit, whether soda and cream of tartar or baking powder, sift it through the sieve with the flour. Rub the butter through the flour, so thoroughly that some portion of the butter touches every portion of the flour. The success of any baking powder or of a soda biscuit depends upon care at this point. Stir in rich, new milk to make a soft dough. At this period add the maple sugar cut into irregular dice about the size

30
ROLLS.

of peas. Dredge a board; turn out the dough. Dredge flour over it and roll as quickly as possible till about an inch thick. Cut out the biscuit with a small tumbler or biscuit cutter, not over 2 inches in diameter. They will rise to the proper size. Bake 15 minutes in a very hot oven. Serve hot. These maple sugar biscuits are a delightful change.

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts flour,</td>
    <td>½ tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint cold boiled milk,</td>
    <td>¼ tablespoon lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
    <td>½ cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
    <td>1 egg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

If wanted for supper, rub the flour and butter together, boil the milk, and cool it the night before. Make a well in the flour, pour into it the milk, to which has been added the sugar, salt, well-beaten egg, and yeast, but do not stir. Let stand over night. In the morning stir, knead, and let rise till near tea time. When very light, roll out and cut with a biscuit cutter; put a little melted butter on half the biscuit, and fold nearly over on the other half. Place in the pan about 3 inches apart. Let rise and bake.

FRENCH ROLLS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 potatoes,</td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
    <td>½ cup lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts water.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Peel potatoes, boil in the water, press and drain potatoes and water through a colander; when cool enough not to scald, add flour to make a thick batter, beat well, and add yeast. Make this sponge early in the morning, and when light turn into a breadpan, add salt, lard, and flour enough for a soft dough; mix and let rise in a warm, even temperature; when risen, knead down and place again to rise, repeating this process 5 or 6 times; cut in small pieces and mould in rolls about 1 inch thick by 5 long; roll in melted butter or sweet lard, and place in well-greased baking pans; nine inches long by five wide and two and one-half deep, makes a convenient pan, which holds fifteen of these rolls; if twice the width, put in 2 rows; press the rolls closely together, so that they will only be about half an inch wide. Let rise a short time and bake 20 minutes in a hot oven; if the top browns too rapidly,

ROLLS.
<page_number>31</page_number>

cover with paper. These rolls, if properly made, are very white, light and tender.

Or, make rolls larger, and just before putting them in the oven, cut deeply across each one with a sharp knife. This will make the cleft roll, so famous among French cooks.

ITALIAN ROLLS.

Work one-fourth pound butter into 1 pound of bread dough when it has risen ready for the oven, roll it out half an inch thick; cut in strips 1 inch wide by 7 or 8 inches long. Sift fine corn meal over them. Place on a sheet of greased tin, so they will not touch each other, and when light, about one hour, bake 10 minutes in a quick oven.

BREAKFAST ROLLS—1.

Mix the dough in the evening, according to directions in the recipe for Bread Raised Once; add a tablespoon of butter, and set where it will be a little warm until morning; cut off pieces, and carefully shape them into rolls of the desired size by rolling them between the hands, but do not knead them; dip the sides of each into drawn butter when they are shaped, and place them in the pan; the butter prevents their sticking together when baked, and they will be smooth and perfect when separated. Rub them over the top with drawn butter, and dust with a little fine salt. Set in a warm place, and they will quickly rise for baking. These are delicious.

BREAKFAST ROLLS—2.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sweet milk,</td>
    <td>2 eggs, whites,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>⅓ cup butter,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>⅓ cup yeast,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Flour for thick batter.

Let rise over night, adding the eggs, beaten to a foam, and the sugar in the morning. Mould quickly, and let rise a little and bake. Very nice.

LONG BREAKFAST ROLLS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cups sweet milk,</td>
    <td>⅔ cup lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
    <td>⅓ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

1 egg.

Take flour enough to make into dough; let rise over night. In the morning add the beaten egg, knead thoroughly, and let rise

32
EOLLS.

again. With the hands make into balls as large as an egg; then roll between the hands to make long rolls, about three inches, place close together in even rows in the pans. Let rise until light, and bake delicately.

DINNER ROLLS.
Make dough as directed in recipe for Long Breakfast Rolls, make into balls as large as a medium-sized egg, place on a well-floured board, flour a small rolling-pin, three-fourths inch in diameter, press down so as nearly to divide each ball of dough in the center, place in pans without touching each other, grease the space made by the rolling-pin with melted butter, let rise until light, and bake. These rolls are so small and bake so quickly, that they have the delicious sweet taste of the wheat. Some grease the hands with butter while making the rolls. Bread dough, by adding the other ingredients, may be used for these rolls.

TEA ROLLS.
<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Amount</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>1 pint sweet milk,</td>
      <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 pint warm water,</td>
      <td>½ cup butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
      <td>½ cup sugar.</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

In the morning make sponge with milk, water, yeast and flour. When light and foamy, add sugar, butter, salt, and flour enough to knead the dough without sticking to the board. Let rise once, then with the hands mould into oblong rolls, about 4 inches long; Grease the hands when doing this. Place the rolls in greased tins, not quite touching each other. When light, or about twice their first size, put in a hot oven to bake. They should be done in thirty minutes. When done, place right side up on a clean towel, and then take a tablespoon nearly half full of white sugar, fill up with water, and with the finger moisten the tops of all the rolls.

COFFEE ROLLS.—1.
Work into a quart of bread dough a rounded tablespoon of butter, and a half cup of white sugar; add some dried currants, dredge with flour and sugar, make into small rolls, dip into melted butter, place in tins, let rise a short time, and bake.

COFFEE ROLLS.—2.
<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Amount</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>12 cups flour,</td>
      <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>3 cups warm milk,</td>
      <td>¼ cup butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 cup white sugar,</td>
      <td>¼ cup lard,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 grated nutmeg,</td>
      <td>3 eggs.</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

ROLLS.
<page_number>33</page_number>

Mix all together and let rise over night. If well risen in the morning, knead and set in a cool place until 3 p. m., then shape into long rolls and let them rise nearly 2 hours. Bake half an hour in a moderate oven. When done, glaze with a little milk and brown sugar, and set back in the oven 2 minutes.

CINNAMON ROLLS.—1.
Mix some shortening, an egg and a little sugar into a piece of light bread dough; roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon; roll up, and slice off with a sharp knife like jelly roll. Place in pans like biscuit, let rise, and when light, put a lump of butter, a little sugar and cinnamon on each one and bake.

CINNAMON ROLLS.—2.
Pie crust,
Sugar.
Cinnamon,

Roll out the pie crust, sprinkle cinnamon and a little sugar over it; cut in narrow strips, roll up tight, put in a well-buttered pan, brown nicely, and serve.

GRAHAM ROLLS.
1 quart graham flour,
1 pint buttermilk,
1 teaspoon salt,
1 tablespoon butter,
1 teaspoon soda.

Sift the soda into the flour; stir salt, melted butter and flour into the buttermilk. Drop into roll pans and bake half an hour.

EXCELLENT ROLLS.
1 pint new milk,
½ cup yeast,
1 tablespoon sugar,
½ cup butter,
1 teaspoon salt,
2 eggs, whites.

Scald the new milk, adding to it when cool, sugar, yeast, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Let rise over night, and in the morning add butter, salt, and the beaten whites of eggs. Mix, knead well and let rise, then knead again and roll out until three-fourths inch in thickness. Cut with a biscuit cutter, spread butter on one half and roll the other half over it. Let rise until very light, then bake.

CRESCENTS OR VIENNA ROLLS.
Use recipe for Vienna Bread No. 2, adding 1 tablespoon butter. When very light, roll the dough until one-eighth inch thick;

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Rolls</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Mix all together and let rise over night.</td>
    <td>If well risen in the morning, knead and set in a cool place until 3 p.m., then shape into long rolls and let them rise nearly 2 hours.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.</td>
    <td>When done, glaze with a little milk and brown sugar, and set back in the oven 2 minutes.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>CINNAMON ROLLS—1.</td>
    <td>Mix some shortening, an egg and a little sugar into a piece of light bread dough; roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon; roll up, and slice off with a sharp knife like jelly roll. Place in pans like biscuit, let rise, and when light, put a lump of butter, a little sugar and cinnamon on each one and bake.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>CINNAMON ROLLS—2.</td>
    <td>Pie crust,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Sugar.</td>
    <td>Cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Roll out the pie crust, sprinkle cinnamon and a little sugar over it; cut in narrow strips, roll up tight, put in a well-buttered pan, brown nicely, and serve.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>GRAHAM ROLLS.</td>
    <td>1 quart graham flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 pint buttermilk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>EXCELLENT ROLLS.</td>
    <td>1 pint new milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 eggs, whites.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<table border="0">
<tr><th colspan="2">CRESCENTS OR VIENNA ROLLS</th></tr><tr><th>Mix all together and let rise over night.</th><th>If well risen in the morning, knead and set in a cool place until 3 p.m., then shape into long rolls and let them rise nearly 2 hours.</th></tr><tr><th>Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.</th><th>When done, glaze with a little milk and brown sugar, and set back in the oven 2 minutes.</th></tr><tr><th>CINNAMON ROLLS—1.</th><th>Mix some shortening, an egg and a little sugar into a piece of light bread dough; roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon; roll up, and slice off with a sharp knife like jelly roll. Place in pans like biscuit, let rise, and when light, put a lump of butter, a little sugar and cinnamon on each one and bake.</th></tr><tr><th>CINNAMON ROLLS—2.</th><th>Pie crust,</th></tr><tr><th>Sugar.</th><th>Cinnamon,</th></tr><tr><th>Roll out the pie crust, sprinkle cinnamon and a little sugar over it; cut in narrow strips, roll up tight, put in a well-buttered pan, brown nicely, and serve.</th><th></th></tr><tr><th>GRAHAM ROLLS.</th><th>1 quart graham flour,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 pint buttermilk,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 teaspoon salt,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 tablespoon butter,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 teaspoon soda.</th></tr><tr><th>EXCELLENT ROLLS.</th><th>1 pint new milk,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>½ cup yeast,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 tablespoon sugar,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>½ cup butter,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>1 teaspoon salt,</th></tr><tr><th></th><th>2 eggs, whites.</th></tr></table>

<table border="0">
<tr><th colspan="2">CRESCENTS OR VIENNA ROLLS</th></tr><tr><th>Mix all together and let rise over night.</th><th>If well risen in the morning, knead and set in a cool place until 3 p.m., then shape into long rolls and let them rise nearly 2 hours.</th></tr><tr><th>Bake half an hour in a moderate oven.</th><th>When done, glaze with a little milk and brown sugar, and set back in the oven 2 minutes.</th></tr><tr><th>CINNAMON ROLLS—1.</th><th>Mix some shortening, an egg and a little sugar into a piece of light bread dough; roll out to one-fourth inch thickness, spread with butter, and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon; roll up, and slice off with a sharp knife like jelly roll. Place in pans like biscuit, let rise, and when light, put a lump of butter, a little sugar and cinnamon on each one and bake.</th></tr><tr><th>CINNAMON ROLLS—2.</th><th>Pie crust,</th></tr><tr><th>Sugar.</th><thal colspan="2">Cinnamon,</thal></tr><tr><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead></thead></tbody></table>

<table border="0">
<tr><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead></thead></tbody>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead></thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3"><strong>Rolling Pin</strong>:</thead>

<tr class="header_bottom_margin"><thead colspan="3">

<page_number>34</page_number>
ROLLS.

cut into pieces 5 inches square, and then into triangles. Hold the apex of the triangle in the right hand, roll the edge next the left hand over and over toward the right, stretch the point and bring it over and under the roll. Bend the ends of the roll around like a horseshoe, being careful to keep in the folding.

WINTER ROLLS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 quarts flour,</td>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart buttermilk,</td>
    <td>1 cup lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart cold water,</td>
    <td>Salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the flour into a jar, scald the buttermilk, add lard and pour all over the flour, beating it up well; add water and yeast; set in a warm place to rise over night. In the morning add salt, and flour enough to make a moderately stiff dough; when risen, knead and set to rise again. This time knead down and place in a large stone crock or bowl, covered tightly to prevent the surface from drying, and set away in a cool place. When needed, turn out on a bread board, take off a piece as large as you wished, roll out to the thickness of ordinary soda biscuit, cut, and put in the oven to bake immediately. Set the dough away as before; it will keep a week in winter, and is very convenient for hot breakfast rolls.

POCKET BOOKS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart new milk,</td>
    <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 tablespoons sugar,</td>
    <td>$\frac{1}{2}$ cup lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
    <td>$\frac{1}{4}$ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{1}{2}$ teaspoon salt.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Warm the milk, add butter, lard, sugar, and the well-beaten eggs; stir in flour to make a moderately stiff sponge, add the yeast, and set in a warm place to rise, which will take three or four hours; then mix in flour to make a soft dough and let rise again. When well risen, dissolve a little soda in a spoonful of milk, work it into the dough and roll into sheets one-half inch in thickness; spread with thin layer of butter, cut into squares, and fold over, pocketbook shape; put on tins or in pans to rise for a little while, when they will be fit for the oven. In summer the sponge can be made up in the morning, and rise in time to make for tea. In cool weather it is best to set it over night.

RUSK. <page_number>35</page_number>

**RUSKS AND BUNS.**

Rusk is not the sweet hot biscuit so often called by this name in New England—that is properly a bun. A genuine rusk is a slightly sweet dried bread, which may be eaten as it is, crisp and delicious; or it may be soaked in ice-cold milk, with an accompaniment of berries and the richest and best of cream cheese. It is an ideal summer dish, served with cream and berries. There are two kinds of rusk, that which is sweet and that which is made without sweetening.

GENUINE RUSK.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup scalded milk,</td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
    <td>3 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Rub the butter into the flour, add the milk, beating it into the flour. It should form as thick a batter as can be well stirred. Add the well-beaten eggs, stirring them in one by one while the mixture is lukewarm, then the salt, and finally the yeast. Beat the batter well. Let it rise 10 hours. Then turn out on a board dusted with flour. Dredge the risen mass with flour and knead until it ceases to cling to the hand. It will require fifteen or twenty minutes' vigorous kneading. Let rise again, then roll out about an inch in thickness, and cut into small, round biscuit shapes. Place these on floured tins and let rise three-fourths of an hour before putting them in the oven. They should be well covered in the biscuit tins. Bake the rusk from 15 to 20 minutes in a quick oven. Split while still warm and put into a slow oven or into the heating closet of the range till perfectly crisp and dry through and through. They may then be put in a loose bag and hung up in a dry place to gain perfection. In two weeks they will be ready to use, though they will be delicious in three days. To make a sweet rusk add at least 1 cup of sugar to the above rule. These rusk should be evenly and regularly browned throughout.

**RUSK—I.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups raised dough,</td>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Cinnamon.

Rub the butter and sugar together, beating in the eggs, and add-

36

RUSK.

ing flour to make a stiff dough. Set to rise, and when light, mould into high biscuit and let rise again; sift sugar and cinna-
mon over the top, and place in oven.

1 pint milk,
3 eggs,
1 large cup potato yeast.

Use flour to make a thick sponge; in the morning stir down, let rise, and stir down again; when it rises make into a loaf, and let rise again; then roll out like soda biscuit, cut and put in pans, and, when light, bake carefully; or make into rather high and nar-
row biscuit, let rise again, rub the tops with a little sugar and water, then sprinkle over them dry sugar. Bake 20 minutes.

CREAM RUSK.

1 pint warm water,
1 cup rich cream,

Flour for stiff batter.

Let rise over night and work down several times. When ready to bake, roll and cut in small cakes, put in a buttered pan, let rise and bake. Sprinkle with sugar when taken from the oven.

LEBANON RUSK.

1 cup potatoes,
1 cup sugar,
¼ cup butter and lard.

Mash the potatoes, add the sugar, homemade yeast, and eggs; mix together, let rise, and add the butter, lard, and flour enough to make a soft dough; when risen again, mould into small cakes, and let them rise before baking. If wanted for tea, set about 9 A. M.

DUNS.

1 cup milk,
1 cup sugar,
½ cup butter,

Cinnamon.

Rub the butter and sugar together, add egg, milk and yeast,
flavor with cinnamon; stir in flour to make a soft dough. Let
rise till very light, then mould into biscuit with a few currants.
Let rise a second time in pan; bake, and, when nearly done,
glaze with a little molasses and milk. Use the same cup, no mat-
ter about the size, for each measure.

1 cup butter,
1 cup sugar,

1 cup yeast,
3 eggs,

½ cup yeast,
1 egg,
Currants,

<page_number>36</page_number>

BANNOCK.
<page_number>37</page_number>

**SCOTCH CURRANT BANNOCK.**

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Amount</th>
      <th>Measure</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>2 pounds raisins,</td>
      <td>1 heaping cup</td>
      <td>lard and butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>2 pounds currants,</td>
      <td>1 cup yeast,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 quart flour,</td>
      <td>1 tablespoon caraway seed,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
      <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td></td>
      <td colspan="2">1 tablespoon finely cut orange peel.</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

Clean seedless raisins and currants and leave in a colander over night to drain. Set a sponge in the evening as for two loaves of bread, using 1 cup yeast. In the morning when the sponge is very light, sift the flour into a large pan, and rub the shortening into it. Mix in sugar, caraway seed and orange peel, then add raisins and currants which must be perfectly dry. Stir all together thoroughly and knead like bread, adding more flour if necessary, and put back in the pan to rise. When light knead down and put into a large, round baking pan. After rising bake very carefully for 2 hours at least, and in some cases longer as ovens differ. If the top bakes too rapidly cover with a pie tin. The butter bannock for which Selkirk is noted is made by omitting the raisins, currants and orange peel.

**BLUEBERRY CAKES**

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Amount</th>
      <th>Measure</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>2 cups blueberries,</td>
      <td>1 egg,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>3 cups flour,</td>
      <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1½ cups milk,</td>
      <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
      <td>3 teaspoons baking powder.</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

Mix the salt, sugar, baking powder and flour together. Stir in milk and melted butter, then the well-beaten egg, and last the blueberries. Bake in cups or gem pans.

**BREAKFAST CAKE—I.**

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Amount</th>
      <th>Measure</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>1 quart flour,</td>
      <td>1 tablespoon each</td>
      <td>lard and butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>½ cups milk,</td>
      <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

Rub the shortening and salt through the flour, with the hands; beat the eggs light, and add to them ½ cups of milk; stir this into the flour. If not enough to make a stiff dough, add a little more milk; knead well with the hands 10 minutes, roll into cakes about half an inch thick and as large around as a pie plate; put on well-buttered pie plates, and bake in a quick oven. At table do not cut these cakes, but break them.

33 JOHNNY CAKE.

HOE CAKE

1 pint corn meal,
Water.
\frac{1}{2}\) teaspoon salt.

Pour enough boiling water over the meal to moisten it. Add salt and let stand 10 minutes. Then add boiling water until the batter will drop from the spoon. Bake in cakes on a hot griddle greased with fat salt pork. Serve hot with a piece of butter on the top of each cake. This was formerly a famous Southern dish.

COTTAGE CAKES.

\begin{tabular}{l}
1 cup sour cream, \\
\frac{1}{2}\) teaspoon soda, \\
2 large cups flour, \\
\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon cream of tartar, \\
\frac{1}{4}\) teaspoon salt, \\
1 egg. \\
Sift the soda, cream of tartar and salt into the flour; stir in the cream and the well-beaten egg. Drop into buttered pans and bake in a hot oven 20 minutes.
\end{tabular}

NEW ENGLAND JOHNNY CAKE—1.

\begin{tabular}{l}
2 cups milk, \\
2 cups Indian meal, \\
1 cup flour, \\
\frac{1}{4}\) cup sugar, \\
Rub butter and sugar together; add beaten yolks of eggs, and flour into which the baking powder has been sifted, then the milk, meal, and salt, and finally the stiffly-beaten whites of eggs. Mix quickly and bake in a shallow pan in a hot oven.
\end{tabular}

NEW ENGLAND JOHNNY CAKE—2.

\begin{tabular}{l}
1 cup Indian meal, \\
1 cup flour, \\
1 cup sour milk, \\
\frac{1}{4}\) cup sour cream, \\
Sift salt and meal, also flour and cream of tartar together; add sugar, mix well. Dissolve soda in milk, beating 1 minute, add cream, and stir the ingredients together, beating 3 minutes. Lastly add the well-beaten egg. Bake in a shallow pan in a quick oven.
\end{tabular}

GOOD JOHNNY CAKE.

\begin{tabular}{l}
2 cups corn meal, \\
3 cups flour, \\
\frac{1}{4}\) cup sugar, \\
\frac{1}{2}\) teaspoon salt, \\
4 teaspoons baking powder, \\
1 egg, \\
3 tablespoons melted butter.
\end{tabular}

JOHNNY CAKE. <page_number>39</page_number>

Mix meal, flour, sugar and baking powder together; break an egg into a pint bowl of cold water; mix, add the meal and butter.
Bake in a quick oven.

JOHNNY CAKE—1.
1 pint buttermilk,
1 heaping teaspoon soda,
White corn meal.
Make a thin batter and bake in a quick oven.

JOHNNY CAKE—2.
1 cup sour cream,
1 cup Indian meal,
¼ cup flour,
Beat the egg and sugar, add salt and cream; if necessary sour or sweet milk can be used in place of cream. If milk is used add 2 tablespoons melted butter, stir in meal and flour rapidly, and bake 30 minutes in a quick oven. With sweet milk use ½ heap ing teaspoons baking powder.

JOHNNY CAKE—3.
2 cups corn meal,
1 cup flour,
2 cups sour milk,
1 egg,
Stir the sugar, cream and shortening together, and the egg, well beaten; add the milk, in which the soda, dissolved in a little hot water, has been stirred. If the milk is very sour more soda will be needed; add the meal, beating smooth, and stir in wheat flour to make it thick. Bake in a hot oven.

WHITE JOHNNY CAKE—4.
8 cups flour,
1 cup white meal,
1/4 cups milk,
¼ cup sugar,
Mix rapidly, and bake in a quick oven.

CRACKERS.
2 quarts flour,
1 cup butter,
1 teaspoon salt,

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>JOHNNY CAKE—1.</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint buttermilk,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>White corn meal.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>JOHNNY CAKE—2.</td>
    <td>1 or 2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour cream,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup Indian meal,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup flour,</td>
    <td>1 small teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>JOHNNY CAKE—3.</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cream,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon shortening,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td><table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
      <tbody><tr><th colspan="2">JOHNNY CAKE—4.</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2"></th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">8 cups flour,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1 cup white meal,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1/4 cups milk,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">¼ cup sugar,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">Mix rapidly, and bake in a quick oven.</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">CRACKERS.</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">2 quarts flour,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1 cup butter,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1 teaspoon salt,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1 teaspoon soda,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">1 teaspoon cream of tartar,</th></tr><tr><th colspan="2">Milk or water to mix</th></tr></tbody></table></table>

<page_number>40</page_number>

**CRACKERS**

Beat well and mix in more flour until brittle, roll quite thin and cut in squares, prick with a fork and bake in a quick oven.

**EGG CRACKERS.**

13 tablespoons sweet milk,
6 tablespoons butter,
½ teaspoon soda.
Mould with flour half an hour and roll thin.

**FRENCH CRACKERS.**

1½ pounds sugar,
1½ pounds flour,
Before cooking brush over with white of egg and dip in sugar.

**EGG CRACKNELS.**

1 quart flour,
5 tablespoons sugar,
4 tablespoons butter,
1 teaspoon salt,
1 teaspoon baking powder,
4 eggs.
Sift sugar, salt, baking powder and flour together; rub in the butter and add the eggs, well beaten. Flour the moulding board, put the dough on it, and knead rapidly a few minutes. Cover with a damp towel 15 minutes; roll out very thin, about one-eighth of an inch, and cut with a biscuit cutter. When all are cut out have ready a pot of boiling, and a large bowl of cold water. Put a few at a time into the boiling water. When they come to the surface and curl over at the edges, take them out with a skim- mer and drop into the cold water. When all are done, lay on baking pans and bake them in a pretty hot oven 15 minutes. This is an old recipe.

**CRACKNELS.**

1 pint milk,
1 tablespoon yeast.
Warm the milk and mix enough fine flour to make a light dough; roll thin and cut in long pieces, 2 inches broad. Prick well, and bake in a slow oven.

**CRUMPETS—1.**

3 cups raised dough,
½ cup butter,
With the hand work eggs and melted butter into the dough; add sufficient milk to leave it a thick batter; pour it into a but- tered pan; let it remain half an hour. Then put the pan over the fire and heat it so as to scorch the flour. Bake half an hour.

3 eggs,
Milk.

CRUMPETS. <page_number>41</page_number>

**CRUMPETS—2.**

1 pint milk,
1 cup yeast,

Scald milk, and while warm, add salt and flour; beat well and add the melted butter and yeast. After beating thoroughly, cover and set in a warm place to rise. In 2 hours, if very light, put into large, well-greased muffin rings placed on a hot griddle. Drop in the batter till the rings are half full. Bake brown on one side, then turn and brown the other. Take off, spread with butter and serve hot. If cold, these can be used by toasting on both sides, spreading with butter and serving hot.

**ENGLISH CRUMPETS.**

1 quart warm milk,
½ cup butter,

Make a batter, not very stiff, of the milk, salt, yeast, and flour. When light add the butter, melted, let stand 20 minutes, and bake in cups or muffin rings.

FROGS.

1 quart flour,
Pinch of salt,

Mix all together thoroughly, then add sufficient flour to make into a stiff batter. Drop with a spoon into a pan and bake in the oven.

GEMS AND MUFFINS.

Few know how necessary care is in the making and baking of gems, and that often the recipes which they find unreliable would prove very different if they were rightly used. The harder the batter is stirred the better. Put the gem pans on top of the stove and drop a little lard into the bottom of each to keep the gems from sticking. When the pans have become piping hot, fill each half full of batter while on the stove, then put them at once into a hot oven. Make a hotter fire for baking gems than for anything else. If the oven is right, the gems will rise until about three times as large as when put into the oven, and but a few minutes will be required for baking them. Everything should be about ready for the table, for, to be very nice, gems must be

1 teaspoon salt,
4 tablespoons butter,
3 cups of flour, or more.

Salt.
Flour.

1 tablespoon butter,
2 teaspoons baking powder.

<page_number>42</page_number>

GEMS.

served as soon as they are taken from the oven. These directions apply for muffins.

BANANA GEMS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>3/4 cup water,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon baking powder.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Make batter and stir in 2 bananas sliced thin. Fill cups half full and steam an hour. Eat with thin cream.

CORN MEAL GEMS—1.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup meal,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup flour,</td>
    <td>3 teaspoons baking powder,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup butter,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the butter first alone, then add the sugar and beat to a cream; add the eggs well beaten, milk, and flour with the baking powder, salt and meal, all sifted together twice. Bake in a hot oven half an hour, if in deep gem pans; or 25 minutes, if in shallow pans.

CORN MEAL GEMS—2.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup Indian meal,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour milk,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat eggs and sugar together, and add butter and salt; then the milk with soda dissolved in it, and mix with flour and meal. Sweet milk and baking powder can be used, if desired. Beat hard for a few minutes, drop from the spoon into hot buttered gem pans, and bake in a hot oven from 15 to 20 minutes.

CORN MEAL GEMS—3.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint buttermilk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
    <td>Corn meal.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Make batter as stiff as it can be poured. Dissolve the soda in a little of the milk. Have the pans very hot, and fill them but half full. The gems will bake in 15 minutes.

CORN MEAL GEMS—4.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups corn meal,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar or molasses,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

GEMS.
<page_number>43</page_number>

Mix meal, flour and sugar with enough water to moisten and let stand over night. In the morning, stir thoroughly, and add the dissolved soda, salt and butter. Drop the mixture in hot gem irons, and bake in a hot oven.

GRAHAM GEMS—1.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ graham and ½ white flour.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the sugar and egg, adding salt and melted butter, then the milk in which the soda has been dissolved, and make a batter stiff enough to drop, in a soft ball, from the spoon. Bake 20 minutes in a hot oven.

GRAHAM GEMS—2.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts buttermilk,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Use as much graham flour as is needed for a stiff batter. The harder it is beaten, the lighter will be the gems when done.

GRAHAM GEMS—3.

Make a stiff batter with 1 pint warm water, graham flour and 1 teaspoon salt. Fill the pans two-thirds full. Bake in a very hot oven.

GRAHAM GEMS—4.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ pints graham flour</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon sugar,</td>
    <td>3 teaspoons baking powder,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon melted butter,</td>
    <td>1 egg</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Sweet milk for batter.

Have the gem pans hot, fill them half full of the batter, and bake until nicely browned, but not sticky when broken open, in a very hot oven.

"ENTIRE WHEAT" FLOUR GEMS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cups sour milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cups entire wheat flour,</td>
    <td>1 egg</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat egg with sugar, add the melted butter, salt, the milk in which the soda has been dissolved, and the flour. Bake in hot gem pans, well greased. This can be varied by using 2 eggs and

<page_number>44</page_number>
GEMS.

less flour, also substituting sweet milk and baking powder for the sour milk and soda.

**GEMS—1.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
    <td>3 teaspoons baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Warm the butter in the milk, add the beaten eggs and salt, and last the flour into which the baking powder has been sifted; have irons quite hot and fill ; bake in a hot oven.

**GEMS—2.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat eggs, adding the melted butter; stir into the milk and mix with flour and baking powder.

**OATMEAL GEMS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint oatmeal mush,</td>
    <td>Salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons bread crumbs,</td>
    <td>Pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat eggs thoroughly, add salt and pepper and stir with the bread crumb into the mush. Then put it into well-buttered gem pans, and bake until a nice brown. It can be baked in one pan if desired and served as it comes from the oven.

**OATMEAL GEMS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint cold, cooked oatmeal,</td>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint hot milk,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Rub the oatmeal in the hot milk until free from lumps, and add the well-beaten egg, and the baking powder sifted into some flour. Make a stiff batter and bake immediately.

**RAISED OATMEAL GEMS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>½ cup yeast,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cups milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiled oatmeal,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Let the oatmeal be warm, rub out any lumps in the hot milk. Add butter, sugar, and stir in the flour and milk gradually, adding the yeast last of all; beat for 8 minutes. Let rise over night, and in the morning warm the pans slightly, butter, fill about two-thirds full and let rise 1 hour. Bake well in a hot oven.

<page_number>45</page_number>

**VIRGINIA PONE.**

1 quart milk,
3 eggs.

Make a thin batter, adding the well-beaten eggs just before pouring into pans. Bake in a moderate oven.

**OAT CAKE.**

½ pound oatmeal,
4 tablespoons water.

Mix all together. Roll as thin as possible from a stiff dough. Cut in rounds or squares and bake on ungreased tins. Prick with a fork and bake in a quick oven.

**POP-OVERS.**

These favorite breakfast and teacakes are made much the same way, except that some housewives prefer to beat the yolks and whites of the eggs separately; both methods may be tried, and the one chosen for future use which is preferred. The same precautions are taken in preparing the buttered cups and a proper oven heat, in avoiding the opening of the oven at first, and in baking the little cakes until their sides are brown. The general proportions are equal parts of flour and sweet milk, a saltspoon of salt and 1 egg to each cup of flour; the cups for baking are filled about one-third. One pint or two cups each of flour and milk will make two dozen pop-overs; the number one can eat is limited only by capacity.

**BUCKEYE POP-OVERS.**

2 cups sweet milk,
2 eggs,
2 cups flour,
1 saltspoon sugar,
1 tablespoon butter,
1 saltspoon salt.

Warm the butter in the milk, add salt and stir in the eggs and flour. Bake in very hot cups or gem pans 20 minutes in a quick oven.

**POTATO CAKE.**

1 cup mashed potato,
1 saltspoon salt,
1 cup sweet milk,
1 teaspoon baking powder.

Add flour to make a stiff batter. Butter the spider well and

<page_number>46</page_number>

**PUFFS.**

when hot put in the cake and cover closely. Turn it once and serve as soon as done.

GRAHAM PUFFS.
1 quart milk,
1 pint graham flour,
1 pint wheat flour,

Beat eggs well, add milk, and pour on to the flour, to which salt and baking powder have been added. Beat hard for 1 minute, pour into hot gem pans, and bake in a quick oven from 20 to 30 minutes.

**PUFFS—I.**
1 teacup milk,
½ teacup flour,

Mix flour and salt, and stir into the milk and egg. Pour batter into the gem pans and bake 30 minutes.

**PUFFS—2.**
1 pint milk,
¼ pint flour,

Beat eggs thoroughly, add the salt and melted butter and stir in the flour and milk. Have gem pans or stone cups very hot, and bake in a quick oven 20 or 25 minutes.

**RAISED PUFFS.**

If the wheat bread is light enough for the oven at breakfast time, have ready some hot lard in a deep kettle; with the thumb and two fingers pull out some of the dough quite thin, and cut it some 2 or 3 inches in length; as these pieces are cut, drop them in the lard and fry like doughnuts. To be eaten like biscuit or serve in a vegetable dish with a dressing of hot cream seasoned with pepper and salt.

**BOSTON RICE CAKES.**
1 cup hot rice,
1 tablespoon butter,

Boil a cup of rice, and while hot stir into it butter and salt. Beat the whites and yolks of eggs separately, and stir them into the rice. Thicken with flour, and bake in muffin rings or on a delicately greased griddle.

3 eggs,
Salt to taste,
4 tablespoons flour.

**WAFFLES.**
<page_number>47</page_number>

1 pint milk,
½ cup butter,

Melt the butter in the milk, and when cool, add the well-beaten yolks and salt, stirring in the flour gradually. Beat well and add the stiff whites. The batter should not be beaten after the whites are in. Bake immediately.

CORN MEAL WAFFLES.
1 pint sour milk,
1 cup corn meal,

Scald the meal; while hot add lard or butter, then the other ingredients, and flour enough to make a not too stiff batter. Bake over a very hot fire.

QUICK WAFFLES.
2 pints milk,
1 cup melted butter,

Make a soft batter of the milk, butter, and flour with the salt added, add the well-beaten yolks, then the whites, and, just before baking, the baking powder. These are good with fewer eggs.

PLAIN WAFFLES.
1 ½ pints cold milk,
1 ½ pints flour,

Melt the butter in the milk, put salt and baking powder into the flour, mix all well together; add last of all the eggs, very thoroughly beaten. This recipe can be used for rice or hominy waf-
fles by adding 1 cup of either boiled rice or hominy. Remember in the case of muffins and waffles, as well as bread and rolls, that if moist flour is used, more must be added to the amount named.

RAISED WAFFLES.
1 pint milk,
2 tablespoons butter,

Warm the milk and butter together; beat the eggs and add them alternately with the flour; stir in the yeast and salt. When risen, heat the irons and butter them, pour in some of the batter and brown on both sides. Butter and serve with or without sugar and cinnamon.

1 saltspoon salt,
3 eggs,

1 teaspoon butter,
1 teaspoon soda,

2 eggs,

1 saltspoon salt,
6 eggs,

4 teaspoons baking powder,

1 ½ pints cold milk,
1 ½ pints flour,

3 teaspoons baking powder,
3 eggs,

1 teaspoon salt,
½ cup yeast,

<page_number>48</page_number>

<page_number>48</page_number>

**CRULLERS.**

**RICE WAFFLES—1.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiled rice,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup yeast,</td>
    <td>2 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt the butter in the milk, add 1 egg, well beaten, with sugar and salt. Mix the rice very thoroughly, and stir in the flour and yeast. Beat well and let rise over night, or if set in the morning, all day. Add 1 egg, well beaten, before baking.

**RICE WAFFLES—2.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1½ pints boiled rice,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1½ pints flour,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

3 eggs.

Beat eggs and sugar together, adding the melted butter, and rubbing in the rice and salt. Stir soda into the milk, and add with the flour. Mix well and bake immediately.

**CRULLERS AND DOUGHNUTS.**

Directions for boiling fat.—Put into a rather deep kettle 2 or 3 pounds lard or beef suet, prepared for boiling. The article to be cooked must be completely covered. Test the heat of the fat. When it simmers, throw in a bit of bread; if it browns directly, the fat is hot enough; if it burns set the kettle on the back of the stove. Should there be danger of burning while cooking, drop into the fat a piece of raw potato. Doughnuts, like fritters, should cook in 8 minutes. If the bit of dough used to test the heat is slow in rising to the surface, wait till the heat has increased. Make the dough as soft as can be handled. When done, drain well in a skimmer and place in a colander, or lay for a moment on a piece of soft, thick paper. The use of eggs prevents the dough from absorbing fat. Doughnuts should be watched closely while frying. After using the fat cut a potato in slices and put in the fat to clarify it; place the kettle away until the fat settles, strain into an earthen jar kept for this purpose, and set in a cool place. Fry in an iron kettle, the common skillet being too shallow for the purpose. Crullers are better the day after they are made. If lard is not fresh and sweet, slice a raw potato, and fry before putting in the cakes.

**CRULLERS.** <page_number>49</page_number>

**PREPARED SUET.**

Use only beef suet, which is quite cheap, cleanly and healthy.
Buy nice, whole, clean leaves, and cut them in small pieces, put into a pot, which will hold ten pounds, add a pint of water, and after the first hour stir frequently; it takes about three hours with a good heat to render it. Drain through a coarse towel, and if the suet is good it will require but little squeezing, and leave but little scrap or crinklings. Put to cool in pans or jars. It is cheaper and more wholesome than lard. Save also all the fat from beef, both raw or cooked. Put in a frying pan with just enough water to keep from burning. Cook over a slow fire till all is melted. After a few minutes add a few slices of potato, let stand 5 minutes, take off the fire to settle, and strain it into jars. Fat prepared in this way will keep a long time, if covered closely after using from it.

**CRULLERS—1.**
5 tablespoons melted lard,
1 teaspoon cinnamon,
4 tablespoons sugar,
3 eggs

Powdered sugar.

Beat the eggs with sugar and cinnamon; add the lard, and flour enough to roll out one-half inch thick. Use as little as possible in preparing for boiling. Cut them in any shape desired. Drop carefully into the lard, turn them when ready, and as soon as cooked lay on brown paper. When dry, powder with sugar.
These are very nice if not made too stiff.

**CRULLERS—2.**
1 cup sugar,
¾ cup butter,

4 eggs,
Flour.

Rub butter and sugar together, add the well-beaten eggs, and flour; make very soft, and roll out one-half thick. Make into any fancy shape. Boil in the hot fat, and when dry sift powdered sugar over them.

**CRULLERS—3.**
2 tablespoons sugar,
2 tablespoons cream or butter,

Pinch of soda,
Pinch of salt,
2 eggs.

Mix cream or butter and sugar, add salt, the well-beaten eggs and soda, flavor to taste, and stir in sufficient flour to roll out one-

50
DOUGHNUTS.

half inch thick on the board. Use as little flour in handling as possible, and fry immediately.

CREAM DOUGHNUTS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour cream,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat sugar and eggs together, add cream and soda, salt, any spice desired, and flour enough to roll out. Cut in circles with a double cutter, and drop into the boiling lard.

COMMON DOUGHNUTS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons lard and butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup milk,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons baking powder,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td colspan="2">Nutmeg or cinnamon to taste.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Rub butter and sugar together, add milk, salt, spice, the eggs, well beaten, and just enough flour to roll out one-half inch thick. Cut in circles, or long pieces to twist and fry in boiling lard.

DOUGHNUTS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sweet milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>6 cups flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
    <td>3 teaspoons baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat eggs, sugar and butter together; add milk, spices and flour; make sufficiently stiff to roll out one-fourth inch in thickness; cut in squares, make 3 long incisions in each square, lift up by taking alternate strips between the finger and thumb, and drop into hot lard.

PIECRUST DOUGHNUTS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teacup sour dough,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac43; cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac12; teaspoon soda,</td>
    <td>&frac12; nutmeg,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Flour to make stiff dough.

The sour dough used for wetting is prepared as follows: Save the bits of pie crust left from baking, add just enough sweet milk to cover, and put in a warm place to become sour. When the doughnuts are mixed, rolled and cut out, let them lie on the board until they begin to rise, then fry in boiling lard. The dough must be as soft as can be easily handled.

**FRITTERS.** <page_number>51</page_number>

**CANNED CORN FRITTERS.**
1 pound canned corn,
1 cup sweet milk,
3 teaspoons baking powder.

Beat eggs thoroughly, stir all the ingredients together, adding enough flour to make a stiff batter. Fry like other fritters. Serve without a sauce.

**CREAM FRITTERS.**
1½ pints flour,
1 pint milk,
1 pint cream,

6 eggs,
2 teaspoons salt,
Nutmeg.

Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately, add yolks to the milk, then the flour, salt, the whites, and lastly the cream. Stir the whole enough to mix the cream; fry in small cakes.

**FRUIT FRITTERS.**
1 cup flour,
1 tablespoon melted butter,
1 cup fruit juice or milk,
2 eggs,
Pinch of salt.

Beat whites and yolks of the eggs separately; mix yolks with the flour and salt, stirring in milk and butter till a smooth batter the consistency of thick cream is formed. Then add the stiffly-beaten whites. Dip fruit in this and boil in lard. Apples should be about half cooked before using, otherwise they will be but partially cooked when the fritter is done.

**HOMINY FRITTERS.**
1 cup boiled hominy,
2 eggs,
1 cup flour,
½ teaspoon salt,
¼ cup milk,
1 teaspoon baking powder.

Beat eggs and salt, add the hominy and milk well mixed, and the flour into which the baking powder has been sifted. Drop in spoonfuls into hot lard, and fry to a rich brown. Serve with lemon sauce.

**LEMON FRITTERS.**
½ pound flour,
¼ pound sugar,
Juice and ½ grated peel of a lemon.

Beat well the yolks of the eggs, add the flour and milk; beat whites stiff with the sugar, lemon juice and some of the yellow peel grated off, or extract of lemon. Beat the whites well into

<page_number>52</page_number>

**FRITTERS.**

the batter and proceed to cook. Have plenty of good lard, heated slowly; just as it begins to smoke, after bubbling, drop in by spoonfuls enough fritters to fill the vessel without crowding. The cold batter will lower the temperature of the fat sufficiently to keep it at proper cooking heat. The fritters will begin to brown very quickly, and should be turned with a wire spoon. If they begin to color dark brown, check the heat immediately. If these directions are followed accurately, they may be lifted from the fat and laid upon a napkin or folded paper comparatively free from grease.

Fritters bear a bad reputation, but when properly made, and eaten occasionally for a change, are quite as wholesome as many of the dishes recommended as food for dyspeptics.

**ORANGE FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon oil or melted butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup water,</td>
    <td>Valencia oranges.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

It is better to prepare the batter, except the whites of the eggs, on the morning before the day the fritters are to be made. Put the flour into a bowl, add the beaten yolk of the egg, salt, and oil or butter, with water enough to make a rather thick fritter batter. This part of the batter French cooks think improved by standing two or three days. Just before using, add the white of 1 egg, beaten as stiff as possible. Then cut the oranges across in circles; remove the yellow peel and the seeds from each, but do not take the pulp from the inner skin; leave the orange circles together in a dish. Coat each slice of orange completely in the batter, and plunge it at once in boiling fat. As soon as the fritters are browned well lift them out of the fat, with a wire spoon, to drain. Lay them for a moment on coarse brown paper, such as bakers use, to absorb the fat on the outside of the fritter. Dredge them with powdered sugar, and serve at once, with a little cut lemon and powdered sugar.

**ORANGE, PEACH OR PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups flour,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup lukewarm water</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt butter, add to the water with salt and the well-beaten

FRITTERS.
<page_number>53</page_number>

yolks; stir in the flour, and just before using add the whites beaten stiff. Peel and quarter small, sweet oranges and lay in sweetened cream, add a little grated orange peel to the batter be-
fore frying. Peaches should be pared, pitted, and halved before putting into the cream. Pare the pineapple, pick in large pieces from the core and drop into the cream. The fruit should lie in the cream 1 hour before putting into the batter preparatory to fry-
ing. Cover the pieces of fruit with the batter and drop into boil-
ing hot lard. Fry till delicately browned. Take up on coarse brown paper, lay off on a platter, sift powdered sugar over them and serve at once.

OYSTER FRITTERS—1.

Make batter as for Plain Fritters and use the oyster liquor in-
stead of milk. Omit the salt. Dip oysters in the batter, and boil in lard, serving at once. Lay slices of lemon on them as served.

OYSTER FRITTERS—2.

Make batter as in No. 1, but chop oysters and mix in batter in-
stead of frying whole. Less flour will be needed in the batter, for it must be quite thin. Cook and serve as in No. 1.

PARSNIP FRITTERS.

Scrape and lay in cold salted water half an hour. Put in salted boiling water, and cook till tender. Allow from 30 to 45 minutes for young parsnips, and from 15 to 30 minutes longer if old ones. If old, peel and split before boiling. When cooked cut in finger strips, dip in batter, the Plain Batter recipe is good, and fry till well puffed and brown in very hot and deep lard. The batter should be stiff enough to hold its shape when dropped from the spoon.

PEACH FRITTERS.

If fresh, peel, stone, and halve the peaches. Spread sugar over them and grated lemon peel if liked. Set away 2 hours in a cov-
ered dish. Make batter for Fruit Fritters, using the juice or syrup from the canned peaches in place of milk. Dip the peaches singly in the batter. Cover well and fry in the boiling fat. When a fine brown take out with a wire spoon and place on brown paper in

<page_number>54</page_number>

**FRITTERS.**

the open oven. Serve with powdered sugar, or a fruit sauce.
Either fresh or canned peaches may be used.

**PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.**

Pick or grate fresh pineapple. Spread over with sugar and set away 2 hours. Take juice of this, or syrup of canned pineapple for the liquid used in making the batter for Fruit Fritters. Stir pineapple into the batter and fry in boiling lard. Serve with a fruit sauce made of sugar, raisins, and sliced bananas.

**POTATO FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups mashed potatoes,</td>
    <td>3/4 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1/4 cup flour,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 tablespoons butter,</td>
    <td>1/4 pint milk.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt butter and mix with potato; stir all the ingredients together, adding whites of the eggs last. Have a stiff batter. Drop very carefully into the lard so the batter will not break in falling.

**QUEEN'S FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup hot water,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup butter,</td>
    <td>1 slice of lemon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>3 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil butter in hot water with sugar and lemon. After boiling a few minutes, skim out the rind and be sure that there is a cup of water left; if less than that, add sufficient to make it up, and while boiling, beat in the flour. Stir until smooth; take off the stove and when cool stir in the eggs, one at a time, without beating. Drop the batter from a spoon into boiling lard. Fry to a nice brown. These will puff up beautifully, and are delicious with maple syrup.

**RICE FRITTERS—1.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups boiled rice,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>3 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat yolks of the eggs well, add the milk, stir in the flour smoothly, and add all to the rice, stirring it in well. Beat whites to a stiff froth and add last. Dip the batter up in spoonfuls and drop into hot lard. Brown well on both sides, take up with a wire spoon, and lay on brown paper or a wire sieve, for a moment, to drain off the fat. Serve hot, with sugar or syrup.

**FRITTERS.** <page_number>55</page_number>

**RICE FRITTERS—2.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups milk,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups boiled rice,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix the ingredients together, adding whites of eggs last, enough flour being used to make a stiff batter. Drop from a spoon into boiling lard and fry a nice brown.

**RICE FRITTERS—3.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiled rice,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
    <td>½ saltspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup milk,</td>
    <td>½ grated lemon peel,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¾ cup Zante currants,</td>
    <td>eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup sugar,</td>
    <td>Grind nutmeg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix, adding sugar to the flour and stirring in lemon peel, currants, and a little nutmeg just before boiling.

**ALABAMA RICE FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 quart flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiled rice,</td>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>3 teaspoons baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Make into a batter; drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard, and serve with the following

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Sauce:</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound sugar.</td>
    <td>Stick of cinnamon.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil until clear. Serve.

**SQUASH FRITTERS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cups milk,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cups winter squash,</td>
    <td>½ saltspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
    <td>Floor for thick batter.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix as previously directed, add the smoothly mashed squash, just before the whites. Beat the mixture till very smooth. Fry as for other fritters. These are very nice.

**VANITIES.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs,</td><td></td><td>Pinch of salt,</td><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br></table>

Beat eggs, stir in salt and rose-water, add sifted flour till just thick enough to roll out, cut with a cake-cutter, and fry quickly in hot lard. Sift powdered sugar on them while hot, and when cool put a teaspoon of jelly in the center of each one. Nice for tea or dessert.

<page_number>56</page_number>

**GRIDDLE CAKES.**

**CORN OYSTERS—1.**

1 quart grated corn,
3 grated crackers,

To the corn add the eggs and crackers, beat well and season with pepper and salt; have ready in skillet butter and lard or beef drippings in equal proportions, hot but not scorching; drop in little cakes about the size of an oyster, for this purpose using a teaspoon; when brown turn and fry on the other side, watching constantly for fear of burning. If the fat is just the right heat, the oysters will be light and delicious, but if not, heavy and soggy. Serve hot and keep dish well covered. It is better to beat whites of eggs to a stiff froth and add just before frying.

**CORN OYSTERS—2.**

1 pint grated corn,
¼ cup cream,
¼ cup flour,

Stir cream into corn, add baking powder and flour with salt and pepper to taste; last the well-beaten eggs. Fry in butter, dropping the batter in spoonfuls. Serve very hot with meats.

**GRIDDLE-CAKES.**

Use, if possible, a soapstone griddle. Though more expensive than iron, it is nicer, as it requires no greasing. If an iron gridle is used, grease with a piece of fat salt pork on the end of a fork. Have the griddle hot before beginning to fry cakes. Beat griddle-cakes thoroughly to ensure their perfection. Separate the eggs, whipping the yolks to a thick cream, and adding the whites beaten to a stiff froth just before baking. Try a little of the batter first, to be sure it is all right, and the griddle of the required heat. Allow one tablespoon of batter to each cake. Buckwheat batter may be poured from a cup, or dip out carefully with a large spoon, placing it when emptied in a saucer. If the cakes are doughy inside, the griddle is too hot; if dry and tough, it is not hot enough. Buckwheat cakes must be light, thick and spongy. Many prefer to bake them without stirring after the batter has risen. Never turn griddle-cakes the second time while baking. When done lay in a pile on a hot plate.

3 eggs,
Pepper and salt,

2 eggs,
Pepper and salt,
½ teaspoon baking powder.

<page_number>14</page_number>

GRIDDLE CAKES. <page_number>57</page_number>

**BATTER CAKES.**

3 cups sour milk,
3 cups flour,
3 eggs.

Beat yolks of the eggs, add salt and melted butter, milk, and the flour into which the soda has been sifted, and the whites just before baking. Sweet milk can be used with 3 teaspoons baking powder. This makes three dozen cakes. Less eggs and more flour can be used if desired.

**BATTER CAKES WITHOUT MILK.**

Mix either flour or cornmeal with warm water until of the consistency of cream, then put in a warm place where it will sour. Add bread crumbs from time to time, also dough left from cooking, bits of butter, and once in a while a little yeast. In the morning take as much as is needed for breakfast cakes, add salt, soda and enough flour to make the batter thicker than when eggs are used. These cakes are very nice.

**BUCKWHEAT CAKES.**

Buckwheat flour, when properly ground, is perfectly free from grits. The grain should be run through the smutter with a strong blast before grinding, and the greatest care taken through the whole process. Adulteration with rye or corn cheapens the flour, but injures the quality. The pure buckwheat is best, and is unsurpassed for griddle cakes, but as some do not like the simple flavor of the buckwheat a variety of recipes will be given.

**BUCKWHEAT BATTER.**

1 pint warm sweet milk,
1 pint warm water,

Put one-half the liquid in a stone crock, add buckwheat flour and beat well till smooth; add the remainder of the milk and water, and lastly the yeast. Or use the same ingredients and proportions, adding 2 tablespoons molasses or sugar. Water may be used instead of milk and water.

5 cups buckwheat flour.
1 cup yeast,
2 teaspoons salt,

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 tablespoons butter,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 level teaspoons soda,</td>
    <td>2 level teaspoons soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<page_number>58</page_number>
TOAST.

**LEMON TOAST.**

1 pint milk,
2 eggs.
Make dry toast. Dip the slices in this batter, then fry quickly on a griddle. Put into a deep dish, wetting each slice with the following sauce, and pour the remainder over all.

Sauce.

3 eggs, whites,
$\frac{1}{2}$ cup sugar.
Beat the eggs thoroughly, add the sugar, juice of 1 lemon, and stir into the boiling water. Serve hot.

MENNONITE TOAST.

1 pint sweet milk,
3 eggs.
Pinch of salt,

Beat the eggs well, add milk and salt; cut slices an inch thick from a loaf of baker's bread, remove crust, dip slices into the eggs and milk, fry like doughnuts in very hot lard or drippings, till a delicate brown, butter and sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot.

QUEEN'S TOAST.

Add to 1 cup of sweet milk 2 tablespoons sugar, a little salt and a well-beaten egg; dip in this slices of bread; if dry, let it soak a minute, and fry on a buttered griddle until light brown on each side. Serve, if desired, with mixed cinnamon and sugar. This is a good way to use dry bread.

SCRAMBLED TOAST.

I gill milk,
Pepper,
Parsley.
Put butter in a frying pan on the stove, add milk, salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of minced parsley. When it boils, break into it the eggs. Beat, and stir them around until well mixed. Have some slices of toast dipped in hot milk, salted, peppered and buttered, and laid on a flat dish. Spread the scrambled eggs on top of the toast, and serve at once.

1 teaspoon butter,
1 saltspoon salt,
8 or 10 eggs.

Lemon Juice,
1 cup boiling water.

<img>CAKE</img>

T
HOUGH it is true of some cooks that, like poets, they are
"born, not made," it is equally true that the great majority
must learn how to cook. While admiring the genius that from as
much sugar as liked, a piece of butter, a few eggs, a little cream or
none at all, a pinch of salt, a dust of spice, just enough soda, all
the flour needed, evolves the most delicious dishes, do not try to
imitate. Ordinary mortals must be content to follow a given
recipe exactly, provided it comes from a reliable source, and bring
experience, common sense, education and observation to bear upon
the making and baking of bread and cake; in fact, use brains to direct
all in departments of cooking, as well as in other work.
General directions: Butter, eggs, and flour should all be fresh.
Very salt butter should be cut into bits and refreshed in cold
water. The so-called cooking butter should never be used, as heat
develops its bad qualities.

Keep eggs in a cool, dry place. The whites and yolks of eggs
should be beaten separately, the yolks till they become frothy, and
the whites so stiff that they cannot slip on the platter or dish when
turned on its side. This requires more beating than to turn the
plate upside down while the whites do not fall. Shake a little salt
over the whites after separating them; set in a very cool place,
and the beating will be more easily and quickly done. Unused
whites must not be beaten; they will keep for several days if set
in a cool place. Unused yolks will keep for several days if thor-
oughly beaten and set in a cool place. The white or yolk of a
medium-sized egg weighs 1 ounce, a fact that it is convenient to
know, as sometimes the white or yolk of 1 or more eggs is wanted
from several that have been put away together. Flour should al-
ways be sifted before using, and it ought to be dry. In using
new flour for either bread or cake-making, it can be ripened for use
by placing the quantity intended for baking in the hot sun a few
hours, or before the kitchen fire. More or less flour may be needed,

<page_number>59</page_number>

<page_number>60</page_number>
CAKE.

according to the climate, or the kind of flour used ; new-process flour requires one-eighth less than other brands.
Soda should be dissolved either in a little boiling water, or by beating 1 minute in the milk. Cream of tartar and baking powder should always be sifted into the flour. Great exactness should be used in their measurement.
Regarding milk, note this : Sweet milk makes a cake that cuts firmly, like pound cake; sour milk makes a light, spongy cake; baking powder, or cream of tartar and soda are used with sweet milk, and with sour milk only soda. It may be remarked in general, that anything that can be made with sour milk is better made with sour cream or buttermilk, using a trifle less shortening.
Use powdered sugar for delicate cakes, and granulated or 'Cof-fee A' for all other kinds. These are the best and most economical. Some advise brown sugar for dark cakes; if used, buy the best in order that it may be as clean and dry as possible. Unless otherwise specified, the term "sugar" in the recipes of this book refers to granulated sugar.
Wash raisins thoroughly in warm water, it will not injure them, and after draining, spread them out to dry. A large quantity can be thus cleaned and kept for use in a jar in a dry, cool place. To stone or seed them, pour hot water on, let stand a few minutes, and cut with scissors or a sharp knife. The process is quick, and the seeds come out clean.
Citron should be cut in thin slices and short lengths.
Wash currants in as many waters as necessary to thoroughly clean them. An easy way is to put them into a coarse sieve, and set in a large pan of warm water; stir constantly until the stems are broken off and have passed through the sieve, and the water is clean from dirt. Rub in a cloth and spread on platters to dry, stirring occasionally.
Blanch almonds by pouring over boiling water, let stand a moment, drop in cold water, and slip off the loose skins. Pound with a little rose-water to prevent oiling.
Select only fresh, soft figs for cooking.
In grating lemons or oranges, use only the yellow part of the rind.

CAKE.
<page_number>61</page_number>

Cocoanut, either dessicated or the nut, should be very fresh. It is unfit for use otherwise. To prepare cocoanut, cut a hole through the meat at one of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, pound the nut well on all sides to loosen the meat, crack, take out meat, and set the pieces in the heater or in a cool, open oven over night, or for a few hours, to dry, then grate; if all is not used, sprinkle with sugar, after grating, and spread out in a cool, dry place, and it will keep for weeks.

Spices are much purer if ground in a spice-mill at home, but care must be used to thoroughly powder them.

Choose a time of day for making cake when least liable to interruptions.

Be exact in weights, or measurements, and careful that no ingredient is omitted.

It is as important to attend well to the baking as the making of the cake; much, even more, depends on it. Have a steady fire. Use coal or hard wood. Ordinarily it will not be necessary if the fire is rightly prepared to add fuel during baking, but if it should be needed in a wood stove, add wood in small quantities, for if the heat slackens the cake will be heavy. Most cake requires a moderate heat; however, in baking fruit cake, which requires many hours, the oven must be slow or the cake will burn. When a sheet of white paper browns delicately in the oven at the end of 5 minutes, the heat is right for sponge cake. Jelly and layer cakes require a hot oven in order to bake quickly. Careful attention is needed to prevent the edges from burning. Many test ovens in this way: If the hand can be held in from 20 to 35 seconds, or while counting 20 or 35, it is a quick oven ; from 35 to 45 seconds is moderate, and from 45 to 60 seconds is slow. Sixty seconds is a good oven for large fruit cakes. The light or heavy plate of the stove affects the temperature of the oven, and 20 seconds in one oven may indicate what would be 30 or 35 in another. Each cook must ascertain the qualities and capabilities of her own stove, in order to do good work. After putting cake into the oven do not open, at least for 10 minutes, except for layer cakes. Open seldom as possible, and with some cakes, never. Be careful no draughts of cold air from open window or door strike in. Move

62
CAKE.

cake very carefully if necessary to turn, and shut the door gently in order not to jar it. The directions given for regulating the heat of the oven in baking bread apply to cake. Do not try a cake to see if it is done, until sure it is done. Allow about 30 minutes for each inch of thickness if in a quick oven, and more time in a slow one. Test with a broom splint or knitting-needle, and if the dough does not adhere, it is done. Settling away from the pan a little, and stopping its singing, are other indications that the cake is ready to leave the oven. When removed, set the cake, while in the pan, on an inverted sieve to cool; this secures a free circulation of air all round it, and cools it evenly. Set away, always right side up. A tin chest or stone jar is best to keep it in. Coffee cake should be put away before it is cold, and so closely wrapped in a large napkin that the aroma will not be lost.

Before beginning to mix the cake see that the fire is well under way. Grease the tins thoroughly with a little lard or butter; the latter has a tendency to blacken the surface. Line the bottom with paper; for fruit cake use from 4 to 6 layers of paper on the bottom, and 1 or more on the sides of the pan, if tin or iron is used. Butter the paper next the cake. It is preferable to use a large earthen pan for fruit cake, and the turk's-head pan, the one having a funnel in the center, is especially desirable for all cakes requiring a long or very uniform baking.

Prepare all the ingredients for use. Have ready a large earthen mixing bowl, which is much better than tin. Sift salt, baking powder, or cream of tartar and spice into the flour. Take a little of the measured flour and sift lightly over the fruit to be used. Have the flour browned previously for dark cakes. Break and separate the eggs and beat the yolks. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream with a wooden or silver spoon, or until it looks very light and is of a creamy consistency. If the bowl is warmed this can be more easily done, but avoid melting the butter; add the frothy yolks, and a little flour, beating steadily, then one-half of the milk, if called for, more flour, the remainder of the milk, and the flour. Beat thoroughly, that is, till well mixed, then cut and fold in the previously beaten whites, so that they shall be well incorporated with the mixture. There are 4 processes used in mak-

CAKE. <page_number>63</page_number>

ing cakes or working with eggs, and they are indicated by their names, stirring, beating, cutting, and folding. The last two should always be used where the whites of the eggs are particularly necessary either in cakes, creams or jellies. Though spice is mixed with the flour, flavoring, such as extracts or juices, should be added just before baking. Add fruit after all other ingredients. If but little fruit is used, it can be dropped in layers while putting the mixture in the pans. The pans should be filled only two-thirds full, leaving room for the cake to rise.

Cookies, gingersnaps, jumbles and wafers require a hot oven to bake quickly. If they become moist by keeping, heat well a few minutes. To cut cake while warm, let the knife be hot.

Ordinary unused writing paper, the clean side of a letter, the blank paper from a newspaper publishing office, or smooth, light brown paper like manilla, not too heavy, are all suitable for lining cake tins.

The usual kitchen measurement for a cup is a one-half pint, and it will be so understood in this book, except when otherwise indicated.

ANGEL'S FOOD.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>11 eggs, whites,</td>
    <td>1 cup flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1/2 cups granulated sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cream of tartar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon flavoring.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Sift the flour 4 times, then add the cream of tartar and sift again, but measure before putting in the cream of tartar; sift the sugar and measure it; beat the eggs to a stiff froth on a large platter; on the same platter add the sugar, then the flour, beating lightly all the time. Add the flavoring last, and do not stop beating until put into the pan to bake. A pan with a tube in the centre should be used. Line with paper, using no grease, and fill not more than three-fourths full. Bake in a moderate oven about 40 minutes. Test with a broom splint and if too soft let remain a few minutes longer. Do not open oven till cake has been in 15 minutes. When done, turn upside down to cool. Take from pan when cold, and ice the bottom if desired.

<page_number>64</page_number>

CAKE

ALMOND, HICKORY NUT OR COCOANUT CAKE.

1 pound sugar,
1 pound flour,
¼ pound butter,
4 eggs,
1 cup sour cream,

Mix all thoroughly; grate in the white part of a cocoonut, or stir in 1 pint of hickory nuts, or blanched almonds pounded.

BEAUTIFUL CAKE.

6 eggs, whites,
1 cup butter,
1 cup sweet milk;

2 cups sugar,
3 cups flour,
2 teaspoons baking powder,

Flavor with rose or almond.

BLACK CAKE—1.

12 eggs,
1 pound sugar,
1 pound flour,
1 pound butter,
2 pounds raisins,
2 pounds currants,
¼ pound finely chopped fresh figs.

Rub the butter and sugar together, add yolks of the eggs, part of the flour, the spice and whites of the eggs well beaten; then add remainder of the flour, the coffee, rose-water, and fruit, excepting citron; mix thoroughly. Line sides and bottom of an 8 quart pan with buttered paper, putting 3 layers of paper on the bottom; put in the mixture adding the sliced citron in alternate layers. Bake 4 or 5 hours in a slow oven.

BLACK CAKE—2.

6 eggs,
½ cup butter,
2 cups brown sugar,
3 cups flour, browned,
2 cups sweet milk,
2 tablespoons molasses,
1 tablespoon cinnamon,

1 teaspoon soda,
½ teaspoon salt,
1 grated cocoonut, or 1 pint hickory nuts, or 1 pint blanched almonds.

Bake 3 hours.

CAKE. <page_number>65</page_number>

**Caramel.**

3/4 pound brown sugar,
3/4 cup milk,
1/4 pound chocolate, scant,
Butter size of an egg,
2 teaspoons vanilla.

Mix thoroughly, cook till thick, adding the vanilla after it is taken from the fire, spread on the cake and set in the oven to dry.

CHOCOLATE CAKE—1.

7 eggs, yolks,
1 cup butter,
3 cups brown sugar,
9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate.

This may be baked as a layer cake, making a white cake of the whites of the eggs, baking in layers, and putting them together with frosting, alternating the layers.

CHOCOLATE CAKE—2.

2 cups sugar,
1 cup butter,
1 cup sweet milk,
This makes 5 flat cakes.

Icing.
3 eggs, whites,
1 1/4 cups powdered sugar,
2 teaspoons vanilla.

MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE.

White part.
1 cup sugar,
3/4 cup milk,
3/4 cup butter,

Stir the sugar and butter to a cream, add the milk slowly, the flour sifted thoroughly with the baking powder, and last the whites of the eggs beaten stiff.

Dark part.
3/4 cups sugar,
3/4 cup butter, small,
3/4 cup milk,

Put in pans alternately 1 large spoonful of the white and dark.

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Ingredients</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Caramel</td>
      <td>3/4 pound brown sugar<br>3/4 cup milk<br>1/4 pound chocolate, scant<br>Butter size of an egg<br>2 teaspoons vanilla</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—1</td>
      <td>7 eggs, yolks<br>1 cup butter<br>3 cups brown sugar<br>9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—2</td>
      <td>2 cups sugar<br>1 cup butter<br>1 cup sweet milk<br>This makes 5 flat cakes</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Icing.</td>
      <td>3 eggs, whites<br>1 1/4 cups powdered sugar<br>2 teaspoons vanilla</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE</td>
      <td>White part.<br>1 cup sugar<br>3/4 cup milk<br>3/4 cup butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td></td>
      <td>Dark part.<br>3/4 cups sugar<br>3/4 cup butter, small<br>3/4 cup milk,</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Description</th>
      <th>Ingredients</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Caramel</td>
      <td>3/4 pound brown sugar<br>3/4 cup milk<br>1/4 pound chocolate, scant<br>Butter size of an egg<br>2 teaspoons vanilla</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—1</td>
      <td>7 eggs, yolks<br>1 cup butter<br>3 cups brown sugar<br>9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—2</td>
      <td>2 cups sugar<br>1 cup butter<br>1 cup sweet milk<br>This makes 5 flat cakes</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Icing.</td>
      <td>3 eggs, whites<br>1 1/4 cups powdered sugar<br>2 teaspoons vanilla</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE</td>
      <td>White part.<br>1 cup sugar<br>3/4 cup milk<br>3/4 cup butter,</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td></td>
      <td>Dark part.<br>3/4 cups sugar<br>3/4 cup butter, small<br>3/4 cup milk,</td>
    </tr>
  </tbody>
</table>

<table border="1">
  <thead><tr><th>Description</th><th colspan="2">Ingredients</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Caramel</td><td colspan="2">3/4 pound brown sugar,<br>3/4 cup milk,<br>1/4 pound chocolate, scant,<br>Butter size of an egg,<br>2 teaspoons vanilla.</td></tr><tr><td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—1</td><td colspan="2">7 eggs, yolks,<br>1 cup butter,<br>3 cups brown sugar,<br>9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate.</td></tr><tr><td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—2</td><td colspan="2">2 cups sugar,<br>1 cup butter,<br>1 cup sweet milk,<br>This makes 5 flat cakes.</td></tr><tr><td>Icing.</td><td colspan="2">3 eggs, whites,<br>1 1/4 cups powdered sugar,<br>2 teaspoons vanilla.</td></tr><tr><td>MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE</td><td colspan="2">White part.<br>1 cup sugar,<br>3/4 cup milk,<br>3/4 cup butter,</td></tr><tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Dark part.<br>3/4 cups sugar,<br>3/4 cup butter, small,<br>3/4 cup milk,</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table border="1">
  <thead><tr><th>Description</th><th colspan="2">Ingredients</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Caramel</td><td colspan="2">3/4 pound brown sugar,<br>3/4 cup milk,<br>1/4 pound chocolate, scant,<br>Butter size of an egg,<br>2 teaspoons vanilla.</td></tr><tr><td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—1</td><td colspan="2">7 eggs, yolks,<br>1 cup butter,<br>3 cups brown sugar,<br>9 tablespoons Baker's chocolate.</td></tr><tr><td>CHOCOLATE CAKE—2</td><td colspan="2">2 cups sugar,<br>1 cup butter,<br>1 cup sweet milk,<br>This makes 5 flat cakes.</td></tr><tr><td>Icing.</td><td colspan="2">3 eggs, whites,<br>1 1/4 cups powdered sugar,<br>2 teaspoons vanilla.</td></tr><tr><td>MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE</td><td colspan="2">White part.<br>1 cup sugar,<br>3/4 cup milk,<br>3/4 cup butter,</td></tr><tr><td></td><td colspan="2">Dark part.<br>3/4 cups sugar,<br>3/4 cup butter, small,<br>3/4 cup milk,</td></tr></tbody></table>

<table border="1">
  <thead><tr><th>Description</th><th colspan="2">Ingredients</th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td>Caramel</td><td colspan="2">3/4 pound brown sugar,<br>3/4 cup milk,<br>1/4 pound chocolate, scant,<br>Butter size of an egg,<br>2 teaspoons vanilla.</td></tr><tr><td rowspan="8" style="border-top: double black;">CHOCOLATE CAKE—1 &amp; CHOCOLATE CAKE—2 &amp; Icing &amp; MARBLE CHOCOLATE CAKE &amp; White part &amp; Dark part:</td><td colspan="2">7 eggs, yolks,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &lt;u&gt;7 eggs&lt;/u&gt;, yolks,&lt;br&gt;1&lt;br&gt;cup&lt;br&gt;butter,&lt;br&gt;3&lt;br&gt;cups&lt;br&gt;brown&lt;br&gt;sugar,&lt;br&gt;9&lt;br&gt;tablespoons&lt;br&gt;Baker's&lt;br&gt;chocolate.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&gt; 5 flat cakes.&lt;br&gt;<u&gt;This makes&lt;/u&quot;</body></html>"

66

CAKE.

RICE SPONGE CAKE.
1 cup white sugar,
1 cup rice flour,
Beat all together 20 minutes, bake one-half hour in a moderate oven.

5 eggs,
Flavor to taste.

SCOTCH CAKE.
2 cups butter,
1 cup sugar,
PHIL SHERIDAN CAKE.
16 eggs, whites,
4 cups powdered sugar,
5 cups sifted flour,
2 teaspoons cream of tartar.

Dissolve the soda in the milk; stir the sugar and butter to a cream, add whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, the flour, then the milk and soda; stir several minutes, and add the cream of tartar and flavoring. This makes a large cake.

SNOW CAKE—1.
½ cup butter,
1 cup sugar,
½ cups flour,
SNOW CAKE—2.
10 eggs, whites,
½ cups powdered sugar,

Beat the whites to a stiff froth, sift the sugar lightly over them, and stir well, add the flour and cream of tartar sifted together, and flavor.

SNOWBALL CAKE.
1 cup white sugar,
3/4 cup butter,
¼ cup sweet milk,
3 eggs, whites,

Cream the butter and sugar, add the milk gradually, stirring well, then the whites, beaten stiff; sift the baking powder into 1 cup of flour and stir in slowly, then the citron and flavoring, and enough more flour to make nearly as stiff as plain cake. Bake in 1 loaf.

Flavor with lemon,

Flour,

Flavor with lemon,

A little citron sliced very thin.

4 cups flour,
2 eggs.

1 cup butter,
4 eggs, whites,
1 teaspoon baking powder,

1 cup flour,
1 teaspoon cream of tartar,

Flavor to taste.

1 teaspoon baking powder,

Flour,

Flavor with lemon,

A little citron sliced very thin.

CAKE.
<page_number>67</page_number>

CARAMEL CAKE.

½ cup butter,
1 cup powdered sugar,
1¼ cups flour,
Bake in layers.

3½ cups C sugar,
1 tablespoon melted butter.

The particular part is in making and applying the filling or caramel. Boil all together in a clean smooth skillet, stirring only a little to prevent scorching. To ascertain when it is cooked enough, let a drop fall into a cup of cold water ; when it rubs to a pasty condition between thumb and finger, take from the fire and stir to the consistency of very thick molasses, when it may be placed between the layers and over the top and sides, forming a most delicious cake.

CHOCOLATE CARAMEL CAKE.

1½ cups sugar,
¾ cup butter,
½ cup milk,
Bake in jelly tins.

Caramel.

1 pint brown sugar,
½ cup milk or water,
Boil 20 minutes, or until thick enough, and spread between the cakes while warm. For the frosting of top of cake use:

2 eggs, whites,
1½ cups sugar,
Reserve 3 of the whites for frosting. Bake in 3 layers in deep jelly tins.

Frosting.

1½ cups powdered sugar,
6 tablespoons grated chocolate,

½ cup sweet milk,
4 eggs, whites,
1 teaspoon baking powder.

3½ cups cream,
¼ cup chocolate.

CHOCOLATE CAKE.

2 cups sugar,
1 cup butter,
1 cup milk,

4 cups sifted flour,
2 teaspoons baking powder,
5 eggs.

Butter size of an egg.

Reserve 3 of the whites for frosting. Bake in 3 layers in deep jelly tins.

Frosting.

2 teaspoons vanilla,
3 eggs, whites.

68

FILLINGS FOR CAKE.

**FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKE.**

**APPLE JELLY.**
1 large tart apple,
1 cup sugar,
Grate the apple and the rind of the lemon, add the other ingredients and boil the jelly about 5 minutes.

**CINNAMON JELLY.**
2 eggs, yolks,
1 level tablespoon cinnamon.
2 tablespoons sugar,

**COFFEE FILLING.**
1 tablespoon cream,
3 heaping tablespoons cornstarch,
1 cup strong black coffee.
Add the cream and sugar to the coffee, and heat ; when boiling hot add the cornstarch dissolved in a little cold coffee, and let boil 3 minutes. Then pour slowly over the well-beaten eggs and stir rapidly. If not thick enough set over boiling water and stir till the eggs set a little, but not long enough to curdle. Spread between the layers and ice with Coffee Icing. Use Mocha and Java coffee mixed.

**ICE CREAM FILLING.**
1 pound almonds,
Sugar to sweeten,
1 pint thickest sweet cream,
Flavor with vanilla.
Beat the cream until it looks like ice cream, make very sweet, and flavor; Blanch and chop the almonds, stir into the cream, and put very thick between each layer.

**PEACH FILLING.**
Cut peaches in thin slices, prepare cream by whipping, sweetening and adding flavor of vanilla if desired, put layers of peaches between the sheets of cake, pour cream over each layer and over the top. This may also be made with ripe strawberries.

**WHIPPED CREAM FILLING.**
Use any recipe for nice layer cake, and put the parts together with whipped cream.

ICING.
<page_number>69</page_number>

**ICING.**

Keep the eggs in a very cold place. Break the whites on to a platter or large shallow dish. Allow one small cup or one-third pound of powdered sugar to the white of an egg. Beat the whites thoroughly before adding, gradually, the sugar. The length of time required for beating depends on the coldness and freshness of the eggs. Some experienced cooks advise putting the sugar directly into the whites and beating all together. It is claimed, icing so made does not crumble easily. If a soft icing is desired add one-fourth pound of sugar, or ten teaspoons of sugar and one of cornstarch to the white of each egg. Cake can be iced while warm ; in the case of fruit cake, it is better to leave it until within a few hours before wanted, as icing will turn yellow by standing. Allow the whites of two eggs for a large cake. Remove the loose particles from the cake with a cloth, and dust with flour. Flavor being just before using ; if lemon juice is preferred, extra sugar will be needed for the additional liquid. To color icing, use either cochineal, a red jelly or strawberry syrup for a pink, strong coffee for amber, and the strained juice of an orange, in which has been soaked the rind, for a delicate yellow. There are fruit syrups and powders which give almost any color desired. Powdered or confectioner's sugar should always be used except for boiled icing; for that the granulated is better. Remember to beat the eggs entirely in one direction, that is, from left to right, or right to left; do not change the order while beating. It is as important here as in cake making.

Put the cake on a smooth, flat surface, where it can be undisturbed, with a layer of clean white paper under it. Drop a large spoon of icing on the center of the cake, and spread smoothly with a knife dipped in hot water to prevent sticking. Work as rapidly as possible to do it well. When finished set the cake in a cool place to harden. It is nice, when the frosting is almost cold, to take a knife and mark the cake in slices. Any ornaments, such as gum drops, candies, orange flowers or ribbons should be put on while the icing is moist. When dry ornament with piping, which is a stiff icing squeezed through a paper funnel, and may be tinted with colored sugars.

<img>A hand holding a spoonful of icing over a cake.</img>

70

**ICING.**

ALMOND ICING.
3/4 pint powdered sugar, 3 eggs, whites,
1/4 pint sweet almonds, 1 teaspoon lemon or vanilla.
Blanch the almonds by putting them in boiling water, stripping off the skins, and spreading upon a dry cloth until cold ; pound a few of them at a time in a mortar till well pulverized ; mix carefully the whites of the eggs and sugar, add almonds, flavor, and dry in a cool oven or in the open air when weather is pleasant.

BOILED ICING.
3 eggs, whites, 4 tablespoons hot water,
1 large cup sugar.

Boil the sugar and water briskly for 5 minutes, or until it threads when dropped from the end of the spoon. Then, with left hand, pour the boiling syrup upon the beaten whites in a small stream, while beating hard with right hand. This is an excellent frosting. If preferred, add one-half pound sweet almonds blanched and pounded to a paste, or 1 cup of hickory nut meats, chopped fine, and it will be perfectly delicious. This amount will frost the top of two large cakes.

BOILED ICING FOR LAYER CAKE.
4 eggs, whites, 3/4 pint boiling water,
4 cups sugar, 1 teaspoon cream tartar,
1 teaspoon vanilla.

Boil the sugar and water till clear as syrup and pour over the whites beaten stiff ; stir until it is a stiff cream; add cream tartar and vanilla. This is nice for filling.

BOILED ICING WITHOUT EGGS.
3/4 cup milk, 1 teaspoon butter,
1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla.

Boil all 10 minutes, or till a little thick, and spread on cake.

BOILED ICING WITH RAISINS.
1 cup sugar,
3/4 cup raisins, stoned, and chopped fine,
4 tablespoons water,
1 egg, white.

Boil the sugar and water till it will thread from the spoon ; pour on to the beaten egg, and work with an egg beater till thick enough to spread on the cake. Take out enough for the top layer, and with the rest mix the raisins ; spread between the layers.

ICING.
<page_number>71</page_number>

**ICING—3.**

1 lemon, juice,
4 eggs, whites.

1 pound powdered sugar,
1 teaspoon cornstarch,
1 teaspoon sifted white gum arabic.

Beat the whites stiff and add the powdered sugar, then the cornstarch, gum arabic, and lemon juice; beat all well together and spread on cake.

**LEMON ICING.**

To the juice of 1 lemon, strained, add sugar till it is thick enough to spread well. Put on cake and dry in a cool place for 1 or 2 hours; another layer can be added if desired.

**SIMPLE ICING.**

Measure out a cup of granulated sugar; add 5 tablespoons of water; stir the water and sugar together till the sugar dissolves, but do not stir afterwards. Let boil till it ropes—that is, till a little taken up with a teaspoon forms a continuous string, instead of falling in drops like a thin liquid. Have the white of 1 egg beaten thoroughly. Let one pour the thick syrup into the white of the egg while another beats it. Beat for 2 or 3 minutes till thick and creamy. Pour instantly over the cake to be iced, as it will harden in a few moments after it is cold.

**TUTTI FRUTTI ICING.**

<table>
<tr><td>3 cups sugar,</td><td>¼ pound almonds, chopped fine,</td></tr>
<tr><td>½ cup water,</td><td>½ small cup large raisins,</td></tr>
<tr><td>2 eggs, whites,</td><td>A little citron sliced thin.</td></tr>
</table>

Boil the sugar and water till the syrup is waxy ; pour it over the beaten whites, and beat till cool ; then add almonds, raisins and citron, and spread on the cake.

**WINDOM ICING.**

<table>
<tr><td>½ sheet Russia icinglass,</td><td>1 pound pulverised sugar,</td></tr>
<tr><td>½ cup boiling water,</td><td>¼ cup raisins.</td></tr>
</table>

Dissolve icinglass in water, stir in sugar, then raisins, seeded and chopped. Beat well.

**YELLOW ICING.**

<table>
<tr><td>1 egg, yolk,</td><td>9 heaping teaspoons powdered sugar,</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2">Vanilla to flavor.</td></tr>
</table>

Use the same day as made, for it is nice only when fresh.

<page_number>72</page_number>

COOKIES AND JUMBLES.

In mixing cookies avoid using more flour than necessary to roll out the dough, as it makes them hard. In such a case work in a little milk or melted butter. Flour the rolling pin, board and the cutter to prevent sticking. See that the dough is rolled out evenly, in order that the cookies may bake evenly. Do not crowd them in the pan, that they may keep their shape. Let the pan be of sheet iron, or use a piece of sheet iron the size of the oven. Turn it when the cookies are half baked. The oven should be hot. They should bake in 10 minutes unless rolled very thick; jumbles require about 15 minutes.

A nice "finishing touch" can be given by sprinkling them with granulated sugar and rolling over lightly with the rolling pin, then cutting out and pressing a whole raisin in the center of each; or when done a very light brown, brush them over while still hot with thick syrup of sugar and water, sprinkle with currants and return to the oven a moment.

Graham cookies can be made by using the most valuable recipe, substituting graham flour where white flour is called for, and making them a little less stiff than usual. Use flour when rolling them out.

ADA'S SUGAR CAKES.

<table>
<tr><td>3 cups sugar,</td><td>3 eggs,</td></tr>
<tr><td>2 cups butter,</td><td>1 teaspoon soda,</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2">Flour sufficient to roll.</td></tr>
</table>

<table>
<tr><td>1 cup butter,</td><td>1/2 teaspoon soda,</td></tr>
<tr><td>2 cups sugar,</td><td>2 eggs,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1 cup water or sweet milk,</td><td>Flavor with lemon or vanilla.</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2">Just enough flour to roll.</td></tr>
</table>

<table>
<tr><td>1 cup sugar,</td><td>1 tablespoon butter,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1/2 cup milk,</td><td>1/2 teaspoon soda,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1 egg,</td><td>Flavor,</td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2">Flour to roll.</td></tr>
</table>

If desired 1 tablespoon of ginger or cinnamon can be added to this recipe.

CHEAP COOKIES.

<page_number>73</page_number>

**COOKIES**

**GRISP COOKIES.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup butter,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons cream of tartar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon nutmeg</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
    <td>Flour to roll.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Spread a little sweet milk over each cookey, sprinkle with sugar and bake in a quick oven.

**GRISP COOKIES WITHOUT SODA.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound flour,</td>
    <td>5 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound sugar,</td>
    <td>$\frac{1}{2}$ pound butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Flavor with nutmeg or lemon.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks, well-beaten whites, flour, and flavoring. Roll thin and bake in a quick oven.

**EGGLESS COOKIES.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>$\frac{1}{2}$ teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup milk,</td>
    <td>Flavor,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup butter,</td>
    <td>Flour to roll.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

**FRUIT COOKIES—1.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cups sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup butter,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon allspice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup currants,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup raisins, chopped,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ nutmeg, grated,</td>
    <td>Flour to roll thin.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Bake in a moderately hot oven.

**FRUIT COOKIES—2.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sour cream,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cup butter,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cup raisins,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cup currants,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon allspice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ cup citron,</td>
    <td>Flour to mould firm.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Seed and chop the raisins, chop the citron fine; roll one-fourth inch thick, and watch carefully while baking or they will burn.

**PREMIUM GRAHAM COOKIES.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td><span style="font-size: smaller;">1 egg.</span>,
  </tr><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;"></span><span style="font-size: smaller;">1 teaspoon soda.</span>,
<span style="font-size: smaller;">Graham flour to make a soft dough.</span>,
<span style="font-size: smaller;">Roll thin and bake in a hot oven.</span>,
</table>

<page_number>74</page_number>

GINGER BREAD.

ALUM GINGER BREAD—

1 ½ pounds butter,
¼ pound soda,
½ cup sweet milk,
1 teaspoon alum.
1 gallon molasses or strained honey,

Water to dissolve alum,
Flour to make stiff,
2 tablespoons ginger, if desired,
1 egg,
An equal quantity of sweet cream.

Dissolve the soda in the milk, and the alum in just enough water to cover it, use flour to make dough stiff enough to roll out; put the molasses in a very large dish, add the soda and butter melted, then all the other ingredients; mix in the evening and set in a warm place to rise over night; in the morning knead it a long time like bread, roll into squares one-half an inch thick, and bake in bread pans in an oven heated about right for bread. To make it glossy, rub over the top just before putting it into the oven the well-beaten egg and sweet cream, stirring cream and egg well together. This ginger bread will keep an unlimited time. The recipe is complete without ginger, but it may be used. Over 50 years old, and formerly used for general muster days.

EXCELLENT GINGER BREAD—1.

1 cup sugar,
1 cup butter,
1 cup buttermilk,
2 cups molasses,

5 ½ cups flour,
6 eggs,
2 teaspoons soda,
Ginger and cinnamon to taste.

EXCELLENT GINGER BREAD—2.

3 eggs,
¼ cup sugar,
½ cup N. O. molasses,
½ cup cream,
½ cup sour milk,

½ teaspoon ginger,
1 teaspoon cinnamon,
½ teaspoon soda,
Hot water to dissolve soda,
Flour.

Stir together the sugar and well-beaten yolks, add the molasses, cream and sour milk, and mix thoroughly; add ginger, cinnamon, and enough flour to make as stiff as plain cake; then stir in thoroughly the whites beaten stiff, and the soda dissolved in hot water. This is more difficult to make successfully than plain cake. If it is too thin, it is liable to fall; and if too stiff it is not so good. Bake in 2 deep tins, and serve while warm.

GINGER SNAPS.

GINGER DROPS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup molasses,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon ginger,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiling water,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups flour,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cloves.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Dissolve the soda in the boiling water, add the eggs, well beaten, just before baking. Baked in gem pans, or as common ginger bread, and eaten warm with a sauce, they make a nice dessert.

GINGER SNAPS—1.
8 ounces butter,
4 ounces sugar,
6 ounces preserved orange peel,
1 pint molasses,
1 pound and 6 ounces flour.

Dissolve the soda in the water, soften the butter and mix it with the sugar and molasses, add the spices, orange peel and soda, beat well and stir in the flour; flour the board and roll the paste as thin as possible, cut in circles and bake in a very quick oven. This quantity makes one hundred and twenty-nine snaps, about three inches across.

GINGER SNAPS—2.
1 egg,
1 cup molasses,
1 cup sugar,
1 cup butter and lard mixed,

Roll thin and bake quickly.

GINGER SNAPS—3.
6 pounds flour,
1¼ pounds butter,
1¼ pounds sugar,

Cinnamon to taste.

GINGER SNAPS—4.
2 cups N. O. molasses,
1 cup butter and lard,
1 cup white sugar,
1 teaspoon ginger,
1 teaspoon allspice,

Mix all together except flour and sugar; add flour to make stiff, then the sugar, make in a roll, cut off small pieces, flatten them

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup boiling water,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon soda, level,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon ginger,</td>
    <td>Flour to mould out rather soft.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 teaspoons cinnamon,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 tablespoons water,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons vinegar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Flour.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

76

NUT WAFERS.

slightly, place in tins 1 inch apart and bake in a moderate oven.
When cold, put in a covered jar, let stand a few days and they are ready for use.

MOLASSES COOKIES.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups N. O. molasses,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon ginger,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup butter,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 cup cold water,</td>
    <td>Flour to roll out.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Do not roll too thin, bake in a quick oven.

PEPPER NUTS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup citron, chopped fine,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon ground pepper,</td>
    <td>Hot water to dissolve soda,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
    <td>Flour to mould into small balls.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

NUT WAFERS.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup brown sugar,</td>
    <td>3/4 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup nut meats,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons flour,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the eggs thoroughly and add the sugar, salt, flour and nut meats. If not stiff enough to drop in a firm mass, add more flour, and drop in small quantities on well-buttered paper. Bake about 5 minutes in a quick oven.

<img>A woman in an apron is kneading dough with her hands.</img>

<page_number>76</page_number>

<img>A black and white illustration of a man's face with a mustache and a hat, possibly a caricature.</img>
# CONFECTIONERY

THE "sweet tooth" of the world has not only created a demand for candies, but requires them to be made from pure materials, and according to scientific methods. The secret of successful candy-making lies in understanding the action of heat upon sugar, and the effect of certain things on boiled sugar. A sugar boiler's thermometer is desirable in home work, if candy is to be frequently made and in a considerable quantity. The exact degrees of heat for producing certain results can then be easily ascertained. In order to help all who wish to make candy, the 5 degrees Fahrenheit used by confectioners will be given, and as far as possible, the directions for testing without a thermometer.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1st.</td><td>The Smooth : 215 to 230 degrees F.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2nd.</td><td>The Thread : 230 to 355 degrees F.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3rd.</td><td>The Feather : 240 to 245 degrees F.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4th.</td><td>The Ball : 250 to 255 degrees F.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>5th.</td><td>The Crack : 310 to 315 degrees F.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

The Smooth degree indicates a thick syrup; dip the stem of a clay pipe into the syrup, and if it feels oily to the touch the degree is reached, and may be used for crystallizing purposes. The Thread is known when the syrup, taken from the pipe by the thumb and finger, parts quickly and hangs in small threads. The Feather is indicated by the greater tenacity of the thread, so that it can be drawn out in long, fine hairs, without breaking. Cream for chocolate candies and fruits is taken from sugar at this degree. The Ball degree is reached when on drawing the pipe through the sugar and dipping it into cold water, the sugar dropping from it can be worked like putty. This is used in making coconut candies, icing, and almost any variety of grained candies. The Crack must be tested in like manner; the sugar must leave the pipe clean, and when dipped in water, and bitten, must break off sharply without sticking to the teeth. The soft and hard Crack

<page_number>77</page_number>

<page_number>78</page_number>
CONFECTIONERY.

are its first and last degrees. Beyond this point the sugar turns yellow and rapidly crystallizes, and when tested in water shows softer, and more brittle. If allowed to boil to 320 deg. F. it reaches a point called Caramel, and must not be allowed to remain longer on the fire. Caramel is used for coloring candies, and making brown sauces and gravies. Sugar boiled to the Crack is used for making drops, rocks, toffees, and all clear candies. Sugar boiled beyond 250 degrees will grain in a hard lump. Cream of tartar prevents this by cutting the grain. Its action makes the sugar easily worked while warm, and transparent when cold. One quarter ounce or two teaspoons of cream of tartar is sufficient to use with eight pounds of sugar. Let the fire be firm and steady, before putting on the sugar to boil, so as not to need additional fuel; the quicker the boiling is through, the better is the color and durability of the sugar. If it should catch at the bottom of the pan, lift it off, and shake a few ashes over the fire. Dark sugars require longer boiling and are very liable to burn. Let the heat be applied only to the bottom of the pan; otherwise particles may be burned on the sides and spoil the whole material. In making caramels, the hotter the fire, the lighter the color; and the smaller the quantity, the finer the flavor. For a small quantity use a small pan in cooking, as there is less danger of burning; it must be large enough to allow for the expansion of boiling without the contents running over the sides. Caramels are a delicate confection, and require careful attention. Fruit candies are much finer when made from pure fruit juices and not from extracts. All color and flavoring, except chocolate and nuts, is put in after the boil is removed from the fire. In pouring candy on to the slab or platters, never scrape the pan or allow any of the scrapings to fall into the material. Avoid stirring or disturbing syrup that is intended for clear candies. Grease plates or slab with perfectly fresh, sweet butter or the finest olive oil. For boiling sugar use a granite saucepan or one made of bright copper. For stirring, a wooden spatula is preferable to a silver spoon. Have a large hook placed firmly in the wall in a convenient place for pulling candy; also keep waxed paper in which to wrap caramels or other candies. Two confectioners' pouring plates, or a marble slab, will be a great

CONFECTIONERY.
<page_number>79</page_number>

convenience, and improve the nicety of the candy. A pair of sharp scissors will be very helpful. The first step in the manufacture of all boiled candies is the same, and consists of cooking the sugar to such a consistency as will enable it to be easily handled, and used in any form desired. Unless otherwise indicated, granulated sugar is intended to be used in the accompanying recipes. The following is a good foundation recipe for all boiled candies, whether cream or clear:

2 pounds sugar,
½ teaspoon cream of tartar,
1 pint water,

Put the sugar and water in a saucepan over a steady fire, and stir till well dissolved. If any impurities rise after passing through the first boil, skim at once, as great cleanliness is necessary to nice candy. Stir no more. Boiling a few minutes reduces the mixture to a perfect solution, which is called simple syrup and can be used for crystallizing fruits. To make rock candy, boil the syrup until it hangs in soft threads ; if allowed to cool then, crystallization will take place on the sides of the pan. If, instead, the boiling is continued until the syrup on being tested in cold water, stretches out in a long fine thread, or can be worked with the fingers, cream candies or cream can be made; it must be quickly removed from the fire and either poured on a slab or set away in the saucepan to cool rapidly. When cool enough to bear the heat with the hand, work it with the spatula as fast as possible, until it becomes white, stiff, smooth, and shining. If taffy or clear candy is desired, add cream of tartar at the Feather point and continue boiling to the Crack degree. The greatest skill is required to bring the sugar to this point without allowing it to reach the caramel state. If the sugar, on testing in cold water, becomes brittle and snaps when bitten, it is done; add the desired flavor, and pour out the boil on a well-olied pan or slab, and when nearly cold mark in three-quarter inch squares with a knife, or a regular caramel cutter. If instead of a clear, a white candy is desired, when the mass is cooled sufficiently to handle, throw it over the hook, pull out, throw over again and again, taking a fresh hold each time and letting the sugar slide into the bulk each time a fresh hold is taken. The sugar should be white and porous when done, and of

80 CONFECTIONERY.

a satiny appearance. The fine color and nice appearance depend upon the rapidity of the operation. If the sugar sticks, dust the palms of the hands with a little flour. "Practice makes perfect" in this art. If the mass becomes cool and stiff, hold it near the fire until softened sufficiently to continue working. The bulk of candy is increased by working, though it weighs no more than the clear varieties.

For clear stick candy, pour the mass, after coloring and flavoring, into square tins to a sufficient depth for the thickness of the stick. When cool enough to retain its shape, cut with a spatula, or a chopping knife, marking as desired. When cold a light stroke will separate it at the lines. For round sticks, roll the mass into a cylindrical form, draw down, pull out, and cut off at the desired length.

To make drops, give the mass an oval shape, draw out, and cut off with a quick blow by a sharp knife, as fast as possible; or pour the candy while warm, drop by drop, on greased tins. For white sticks, or drops, color the mass before cooking, but work the flavor into it when pulling; as it must go through that process before cutting into the desired shapes. All pulled or worked candies are flavored during that operation. Butter is used in making ice-cream, milk or cream in caramels, and brown sugar in many nut candies. If confectioners' sugar is called for, buy the best, for though mixed with a little starch, because of its adhesive quality, it is not harmful, but the inferior grades are badly adulterated. Gum arabic is used in making marshmallow and other varieties of paste, also in gum drops.

To candy nuts: first prepare and warm them, that they may be ready for the boiling sugar. Boil cream of tartar in the sugar, and take off a little under the Crack; drop in the nuts, a few at a time, take out and lay on a cold plate till set. It is necessary to work rapidly. If a darker shade is desired, let the sugar pass the crack and begin to turn yellow. Work must be very rapid after this point.

To candy fruits: take sugar prepared as for nuts, and use oranges, grapes, cherries, or any fruit from which the juice does not run too freely. Great care must be used in preparing them,

<img>A page from a book about confectionery.</img>

CONFECTIONERY.
<page_number>81</page_number>

and discard any fruit having the least break. Peel and quarter oranges, and let dry a few hours, so as to take out the seeds without starting the juice. Dip into the candy, and lay on an oiled plate. Break grapes into bunches of two or three, dip, and when well coated with the sugar, hang on a line, or treat as oranges. Cherries are prepared in a similar manner to grapes.

Though the preference is given to the boiled sugar for creams because of its finer quality and durability, full directions will be found for the uncooked creams. Many prefer this method as it is more rapid and easier than the boiling process. The basis of all uncooked candies is a cream made of confectioners' sugar. To the whites of two or more eggs, add exactly an equal quantity of water, and stir in slowly enough sugar to make a firm, soft paste, easily moulded by the fingers. Flavor to taste, mould into balls, lozenges, squares, or any forms wished, and lay upon waxed paper to dry. Part of the cream can be put aside for use with figs, dates, or nuts; another part can be flavored with fruit juices; some can be used with jellies, and melted chocolate will make the balls into nice chocolate creams. These are but few of the uses to which it can be put, and an ingenious worker can manufacture all the varieties desired. Flavoring extracts must be used in very small quantities. Coconut, if from the nut, should be prepared the day before using. Small quantities are more easily handled, and a second or third cream can be quickly made.

COLORING.

For candies and other articles of food only harmless vegetable colors should be used. These can be obtained in paste form from many bakers and confectioners.

CARAMEL.

Put four ounces of sugar into an old iron or tin pan, which must be perfectly clean. Have the fire of good heat and stir the sugar with a smooth stick until it changes from a light to a very dark brown, and boils up vigorously. Draw to one side of the stove, stirring constantly lest it boil over. Add little by little 1 cup of hot water, boil slowly 4 minutes and strain. This will be a syrup and if diluted should give a clear brown color. When cold,

<img>A recipe for caramel-colored candy being made in an old iron or tin pan.</img>

<page_number>82</page_number>
CONFECTIONERY.

bottle for use. It will keep any length of time. Used to color candles, broths, sauces, etc.
GREEN.

Spinach green is perfectly harmless. Take a few leaves, wash thoroughly, drain off the water, pound in a mortar, and add a little salt to a cup of the juice; put in a saucepan over the fire and stir till it curdles. Drain on a hair sieve. Press what remains on the sieve through it and mix with half the quantity of powdered sugar. Put away in a cold place.

RED.

20 grains cochineal,
20 grains alum,
15 grains cream of tartar,
1 gill soft water.
Mix the ingredients and boil in an earthen dish slowly 30 minutes. Strain through muslin, or filter, and cork tightly.

YELLOW.

Put a little saffron into an earthen dish with a little boiling water; let it stand on the back of the stove several hours; when ready, strain, add sugar to make a syrup, and bottle when cold.
Cream color is obtained by using a very slight quantity of saffron. Brown sugars give a yellowish tint to candies in which they are used.
Fruit juices make a nice coloring for icings and confectionery.

TO CLARIFY SYRUP.

Put the white of an egg into any muddy liquid or syrup, and on boiling, the impurities either rise to the surface or sink to the bottom.

RECIPIES FOR CONFECTIONERY.

BURNT ALMONDS.

2½ pounds sugar,
1 pint water,
1¼ pounds almonds.

Remove the shells but not the skins from the almonds and warm slightly before using. Boil the sugar to the ball degree, and stir in the almonds with a wooden spoon. Stir so as to keep the almonds from sticking and detach the sugar from the bottom and sides of the pan. Coat thoroughly with sugar, turning them over and over. When a crackling sound is heard, remove the pan from the fire, and stir till the sugar appears like coarse sand. Turn out

CONFECTIONERY.
<page_number>83</page_number>

the contents of the pan on a wire sieve, and cover with paper for 5 minutes. Then pick out the almonds, and return the sugar to the saucepan with only sufficient water to dissolve it. Repeat the first process and give almonds a second coating, being careful to keep them separated. If this should be repeated 3 or 4 times the almonds will have a thicker coating. In order to make them crinkly, boil 24 pounds of sugar to the crack; put the almonds into a pan and pour over them this syrup in two coats, stirring each time. Burnt almonds are often colored red.

CREAM ALMONDS.

Roast almonds till the meat is brown; take cream made as for chocolate creams; roll out in a sheet and cut into pieces 1 inch square by one-fourth inch thick; wrap the almond smoothly in this cream. Put in a warm place to harden, and finish by crystallizing in syrup, or, while moist roll in granulated sugar.

ORLILED ALMONDS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup blanched almonds,</td>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup water,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Dry the almonds thoroughly. Cook the sugar and water till it flies in long threads from the spoon; throw in the almonds, cook them in the syrup, stirring occasionally. As soon as they begin to turn a pale yellow brown take immediately from the fire, or they will lose their flavor; stir until the syrup has turned to sugar, and crystallize around the nuts. This is a very nice French recipe.

SALTED ALMONDS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup blanched almonds,</td>
    <td>1 heaping teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon sweet butter or oil.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Dry the almonds thoroughly, put them in a bowl, and stir in the butter, melted, coating each one; mix thoroughly with the salt, lay on a tin plate, and place in a moderately hot oven. Shake and turn the pan occasionally. Take out when golden brown, pick out the almonds and throw away the loose salt. Almonds prepared this way are delicious.

POP-CORN BALLS.

Boil N. O. molasses, any quantity desired, to the soft ball; have ready freshly parched corn and put the perfect kernels into a large tin pan; pour over a little of the boiled molasses. Mix thor-

84
CONFECTIONERY.

oughly with forks or spoons, adding more candy as it is needed.
The balls can be made of equal size by filling tightly a pint measure; then empty and squeeze the corn into a firm ball with the hands. Set aside to harden when finished.

CREAM BONBONS.
1 pound sugar,
Flavoring,
1 cup water,

Boil without stirring, after the sugar is dissolved, to a point between the feather and the soft ball. Remove from the fire, let cool slightly, add flavoring, and rub to a cream against the sides of the pan with a wooden spoon. Roll small pieces of this cream into round or oval balls, and drop into powdered sugar before setting away to harden.

CANDY OF ANY FLAVOR.
3½ pounds refined sugar,
1 teaspoon cream of tartar,
1 pint water,
1 teaspoon cream of tartar.

Mix in a vessel large enough to hold the candy when expanded by the heat; boil over a brisk fire, taking care that it does not burn. The heat should be applied at bottom and not at the sides. After boiling 15 minutes, remove a small portion of the melted sugar with a spoon, and cool by dropping in cold water. Take a portion between thumb and finger, and if it forms a thread as it separates, the process is nearly done, and great care must be used to control the heat so that the boiling may be kept up without burning. Test frequently by dropping a bit into cold water; if it becomes hard and brittle, snapping apart when bent, it is done and must be removed at once, and the flavoring stirred in. Then pour into shallow earthen dishes, thoroughly but lightly greased, and cool until it can be handled; pull, roll into sticks or make into any desired shape. Or, omit the cream of tartar, and when the sugar can be worked like putty on being tried in the water, take from the fire, cool slightly, flavor, and stir to a soft but firm white cream. This can be made into bonbons, and chocolate or fruit creams.

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM CANDY.
2½ pounds sugar,
1 pint water,
⅓ pound butter,
⅓ teaspoon cream of tartar,
¼ pound chocolate.

Boil all the ingredients except the butter 10 minutes; add but-

CONFECTIONERY.
<page_number>85</page_number>

ter; the mass will begin to froth and will occupy double the previous space; boil to a soft crack, and pour on a well-greased plate or slab; knead into it the powdered chocolate. When cool enough throw over the hook and pull, flavoring with vanilla while working.

EVERTON ICE-CREAM CANDY.
1 lemon,
2 ounces butter,
1 ½ pounds sugar,
1 ½ teacups water.

Squeeze the juice of lemon into a cup; boil the sugar, butter and water together with one-half the rind of the lemon, and when done, which may be known by its becoming quite crisp when dropped in cold water, set aside till the boiling has ceased; stir in the juice of the lemon; butter a dish and pour on about 1 inch thick. When cool, take out peel and pull till white. Draw out in sticks and check every 4 inches with a knife. The fire must be quick and the candy stirred all the time.

ICE-CREAM CANDY.
2 cups sugar,
1 cup water,
Flavoring,
1 tablespoon vinegar,
1 teaspoon cream of tartar,
Butter, size of a nutmeg.

This must not be stirred while cooking. Boil about 25 minutes or until it hardens when dropped in cold water. Work as soon as possible after taking from the fire. Flavor while pulling.

HOARHOUND CANDY.
2 ounces dried hoarhound,
Granulated sugar,
3 pints water,
Lemon juice.

The proper method is first to make a decoction of the hoarhound. Boil 20 minutes, then strain and press off the liquid through a hair sieve. To each pint of this take 2 pounds sugar; place upon the fire and stir till the sugar is dissolved; when it boils add the juice of half a good-sized lemon. Boil to the hard crack, being careful to keep the sides of the pan perfectly free from the minute crystals deposited there by the steam from the boiling sugar; this can easily be done by washing them occasionally with a wet sponge or cloth. As the sugar comes to the hard crack, pour it upon a cold, greased marble slab, and when cool enough turn in the edges and cut the batch into suitable bars or squares.

<img>A cartoon illustration of a woman holding a tray with various desserts.</img>
DESSERTS

A TEACHER in a well-known cooking school gives as her opinion that every housekeeper should be able to make a different dessert for each day in the year. While a knowledge of three hundred and sixty-five recipes for making desserts may not be quite as important as she seems to think, there is no doubt that the majority of our cooks do not give that branch of their work the attention it deserves, and so great care has been taken to make this department very complete.

CREAMS AND CUSTARDS.

Very few people know how great a variety of desserts may be made from a simple combination of custard. The great secret in a baked, boiled or steamed custard is slow cooking. To attain this it is essential that the custard should be cooked in a dish set in boiling water, which completely obviates all danger of burning. The rule for custard is exceedingly simple and need not be varied for baked or boiled custard.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart fresh milk,</td>
    <td>6 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Yolks of 6 eggs,</td>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

All the ingredients must be of the best and freshest quality. The whites of the eggs can be added to the custard, but as they do not enrich it and are of no especial value in it, it is more economical to use them as a meringue or in white or delicate cakes. The process of making a custard is very simple, yet it is common to see this dish put on the table wheyed or spoiled, because of a failure to attend to the especial minutiae in making it. The milk should be new and brought to the boiling point. The yolks of the eggs should be beaten with the sugar and salt, and the boiling milk poured gradually over them and beaten into them, and it should then be strained. A flavor of nutmeg may be added.

<page_number>86</page_number>

DESSERKS. <page_number>87</page_number>

or a stick of cinnamon, a portion of vanilla bean, or a little of the chipped yellow outer peel of a lemon may be boiled with the milk.
For baking, pour the custard into earthen cups, set in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderately hot oven ; for steaming, cook fifteen minutes over boiling water; or make into a boiled custard by stirring the custard in a double boiler till it thickens. This will take five or six minutes. The custard should be continually beaten all the time that it is cooking and until it has cooled. These custards may be made more ornamental by adding a meringue and browning it lightly in the oven afterward. This is no addition, except to a lemon custard, which is nice served with a meringue flavored with lemon juice. Almost any fruit jelly or fine marmalade, or any fresh fruit, is nice served with custard.

The number of delicious desserts that may be made with a foundation of cream is almost innumerable. There is something particularly nice in whipped cream served with any kind of sweet fruit. Preserves of all kinds are excellent with whipped cream, yet it is comparatively rare to see them served in this way. Charlotte Russe becomes the simplest of desserts when once the art of beating cream is acquired. This can be done with an ordinary egg whip, or a Dover egg-beater, but most persons can succeed better with a cream churn, which should be a cylinder at least three and one-half inches across, and about ten inches long. Cream can be rapidly beaten in such a churn. As the froth rises skim off on a sieve, and place over a pan to drip. There is always some cream in a quart that will not froth, and this will drain into the pan and should be used for coffee or some other purpose. It is not necessary to beat cream to a froth in making ice cream, or in making desserts in which cream is used. An iced or cold rice pudding made with a mixture of whipped cream and boiled rice properly flavored is one of the best desserts made.

Creams and custards should always be beaten in stone or earthen ware to ensure their essential lightness. When gelatine is used in creams, soak it for an hour in a little cold water or milk, set in a warm place; it is convenient to place the bowl in the top of the boiling teakettle, and when dissolved, pour into the hot custard just after removing from the stove.

88
DESSERTS.

The "zest" used in flavoring is the name given to sugar satur-
ated with the oil of lemon or orange peel, obtained by rubbing the
rind with lumps of sugar.

**ARROWROOT BLANCMANGE.**
1 quart milk,
1 tablespoon arrowroot,
1 tablespoon sugar,
Salt to taste.

Dissolve the arrowroot in 1 gill of milk, and heat the remainder;
when it boils add the arrowroot, stir in well and cook a few mo-
ments before adding the sugar, rose-water and salt. Pour into
moulds and set in a cool place.

**CHOCOLATE BLANCMANGE.**
3 eggs,
5 tablespoons grated chocolate,
% cup sugar,
1 quart milk,
% ounce gelatine,
1 teaspoon vanilla.

Soak the gelatine in 1 cup of the milk, and bring the remainder
to a boil. Beat yolks of the eggs and sugar thoroughly and add
first the gelatine, then the chocolate dissolved in a little of the
boiling milk and stir all together rapidly. Pour the hot milk over
the mixture, beat well and strain. Cook as for boiled custard,
stirring constantly. When partly cool, add vanilla and the beaten
whites. Pour into wet moulds and set on ice. To be eaten with
plain or whipped cream.

**CORNSTARCH BLANCMANGE.**
1 quart milk,
4 tablespoons cornstarch,
4 tablespoons sugar,

Scald the milk and add the sugar, salt, cinnamon, and the corn-
starch moistened with cold milk; boil 4 minutes, stirring all the
white. Rinse in cold water as many cups as desired, and nearly
fill with blancmange. Let them stand until cold, turn upside
down on saucers or little pudding dishes, and on top of each place
one-half teaspoon of bright red jelly, pour around them sweetened
cream, flavored with lemon extract.

**IRISH MOSS BLANCMANGE.**
3 quarts milk,
1 small handful Irish moss,

Wash the moss, soak 15 minutes in lukewarm water, shake dry,

Sugar,
Cream,

DESSERTS.
<page_number>89</page_number>

and put into a custard kettle with the milk; stir occasionally and cook slowly till it will jell slightly when dropped on a cold plate. Strain through a sieve, sweeten to taste. Pour into a mould which has been rinsed with cold water, and set in a cool place for several hours. Eat with sugar and cream, and a little tart jelly.

**CHARLOTTE RUSSE—1.**

3/4 box gelatine,
½ pint milk,
3 pints cream,
¼ pound powdered sugar,

Split the lady fingers, or substitute slices of sponge cake, and line a mould. Dissolve the gelatine in the milk. Whip the cream to a froth, and set on ice; beat the yolks of eggs, mix with the sugar and add the well-beaten whites; strain the gelatine upon these, stirring quickly ; add the cream, flavor and fill the mould. Let stand upon ice 2 hours and serve with whipped cream. The bottom of the mould may be lined with jelly.

**CHARLOTTE RUSSE—2.**

4 eggs, whites,
1 ounce gelatine,
2 gills boiling milk,

Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling milk, beat the whites stiff, whip cream to a froth and line a large mould with thick slices of sponge cake; mix gelatine, sugar, cream and flavoring together, add lightly the frothed whites, pour into the mould and set away on ice till required for use. This is an easy and excellent mode of making this most delicate dessert.

**CHARLOTTE RUSSE—3.**

3/4 pound powdered sugar,
1 pint rich cream,

Sweeten and flavor the cream before whipping, add the stiff whites and beat all thoroughly together; pour into a mould lined with thin slices of sponge cake, or lady fingers, and set in a cool place till firm.

<page_number>1/2</page_number>
Sponge cake,
Sponge cake, or lady fingers.

2 eggs, whites,
½ teaspoon almond,

Sponge cake, or lady fingers.

<page_number>90</page_number>
DESEETS.

APPLE CREAM.
1 pound cooking apples,
3/4 pound sugar,
3/4 pint cream,
Cochineal.

Peel, quarter and core the apples, put into a stewpan with sugar and the rind and juice of 1 lemon; set on the stove and let simmer gently. When the apples are quite soft, pass through a sieve into a bowl, put on ice till cold. Whisk the cream to a firm froth; add gelatine melted in the water, and the apple pulp. If desired, color a little of the mixture with the cochineal, pour it in a mould and set on ice. When firm, add the white portion. Serve when cold.

CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM.
3/4 box gelatine,
3/4 cup cold water,
3/4 cup boiling water,

Whip the cream to a froth and keep cool; dissolve the chocolate in a little boiling water; soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 hour, add the boiling water, sugar, and vanilla; set on the stove to thicken, stir in the chocolate, remove from the stove, let cool, and beat in the whipped cream. Pour into a mould to stiffen.

BOHEMIAN CREAMS.
1 quart cream,
1 ounce gelatine,
vanilla bean, or extract of vanilla

Dissolve the gelatine in water, whip one-half the cream to a stiff froth; boil the other half with the sugar and a vanilla bean, or vanilla extract may be added after it is removed from the fire. Add the gelatine, and when cooled a little stir in the well-beaten yolks. As soon as it begins to thicken, stir steadily until smooth, when add the whipped cream, beating lightly. Mould and set on ice until ready to serve.

To flavor with strawberries, strain 2 pounds berries through a colander, sweeten to taste, add the dissolved gelatine, set on ice; when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream as above, and mould.

To flavor with peach, buy 18 choice peaches, sweeten and strain

CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM.
1/4 cup sugar,
1 pint cream,
4 tablespoons grated chocolate,

Vanilla bean or extract of vanilla

DESSERTS.
<page_number>91</page_number>

through a colander, add the dissolved gelatine, a teacup of cream, and set on ice; when it thickens stir until smooth, add the whipped cream, and mould.

To flavor with pineapple, grate fine, boil with half a pound of pulverized sugar, strain through a colander, adding the dissolved gelatine, set on ice, and when it thickens stir until smooth; add the whipped cream, and mould. Canned pineapples may be used instead of fresh. In all these never add whipped cream until the mass is cool and begins to thicken.

**Buttercup Cream.**
2 cups cold milk,
2 eggs,
2 tablespoons sugar,
1 tablespoon lemon,
3/4 cup crystal gelatine.

Dissolve the gelatine in the milk; heat, and when boiling pour slowly over the beaten yolks and sugar. Beat the whites stiff, flavor and whip into the custard, and pour into a mould. Serve with jelly.

**Coffee Cream.**
1 3/4 cups cream,
1 cup strong, hot coffee,
3/4 cup water,
3/4 ounce gelatine.

Soak the gelatine in the water till dissolved, pour it into the coffee, add the sugar, cool, strain and stir in the cream, which may be whipped or plain. Fill the moulds, and set in an ice box or cold place over night.

**Hamburg Cream.**
1 cup sugar,
2 lemons, juice and grated rind,

Stir together the rind and juice of the lemons and sugar, add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs; put all in a tin pail, set in a pot of boiling water, stir for 3 minutes, take from the fire, add the well-beaten whites of the eggs, and serve, when cold, in custard-glasses.

**Italian Cream.**
3/4 box gelatine,
1 3/4 cups sugar,

Soak the gelatine one-half hour in one-fourth pint cold milk, put the remainder on to boil, and when boiling stir in yolks of the

8 eggs,
3/4 pint milk

Flavor to taste.

<page_number>92</page_number>
DESSERTS.

eggs well beaten, the sugar and gelatine; when custard begins to thicken, take off and pour into a deep dish in which the whites have been beaten to a stiff froth; mix well together and flavor to taste; put in moulds, and allow 4 hours to cool. This cream is much more easily made in winter than in summer.

ORANGE CREAM.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ pint cream,</td>
    <td>1 lemon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 tablespoons sugar,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons gelatine,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 oranges,</td>
    <td>½ pint water.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Squeeze the juice from the lemon and oranges, letting the rind of 1 orange soak in the juice of the oranges 1 hour; boil the gelatine in water and cool; whip the cream to a froth, stir all together, pour into a mould and set on ice to cool.

RICE CREAM.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart sugar,</td>
    <td>½ cup raw rice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts whipped cream,</td>
    <td>½ box gelatine,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil the rice in an abundance of water; when it has boiled 10 minutes pour off the water, add 1 pint of milk, put it in a double boiler, and cook for three-quarters of an hour with a little of the yellow rind of a lemon to give flavor; when done, remove the lemon peel, add the gelatine, which should have soaked 1 hour in half a cup of cold water; add also the sugar and salt. Put in a pan of cold water and salt, and stir it till it is thoroughly chilled. Then beat in the whipped cream. The rice must be added lightly to the cream so as not to break down the froth. Pour into little cups or one large mould and set it away on the ice until it has hardened. It should be firmer than jelly. It is delicious served with strawberries and whipped cream, or a golden orange jelly and whipped cream. This is an especially ornamental dessert served in a large mould on a low glass platter, with strawberries or jelly and whipped cream wreathed around it, or if preferred, make a sauce with a cup of mashed strawberries, strained into a quart of whipped cream and properly sweetened. Let the white mould rise from the center of this sauce.

DESSERTS.
<page_number>93</page_number>

ROCK CREAM.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup rice,</td>
    <td>Jelly,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
    <td>5 eggs, whites,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 saltspoon salt,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons powdered sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Milk,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon rich cream,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Flavor to taste.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil the rice in a custard kettle, in sweet milk, until soft, add sugar and salt; pour into a dish and place on it lumps of jelly; beat the whites of the eggs and powdered sugar to a stiff froth, flavor, adding cream, and drop the mixture on the rice.

SPANISH CREAM.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac12; box gelatine,</td>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Vanilla to flavor.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Soak gelatine in the milk for 30 minutes, heat, beat yolks and sugar together and add to the boiling milk, stir and cook until it thickens; take from the fire, add the whites beaten very light, stirring them in thoroughly, flavor and put in a mould to cool. Or, a meringue may be made of the beaten whites, the juice of 1 lemon, and one-half cup of sugar; pour over cream and brown slightly in the oven.

VELVET CREAM.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac12; box gelatine,</td>
    <td>&frac12; cup powdered sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac14; cup cold water,</td>
    <td>2 cups cream,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac14; cup boiling water,</td>
    <td>Flavor with vanilla or bitter almonds.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Soak the gelatine in cold water, add the boiling water, stir till clear, and let cool. Have the cream very cold, add sugar and beat to a stiff froth; whip it into the gelatine, flavor, put in wet moulds and set on ice.

WHIPPED CREAM.

To whip cream successfully, use good rich cream. Set it on ice several hours before using. Sweeten and flavor to taste, put in a large bowl and beat with an egg-beater; as the froth rises remove to a second bowl, or if desired to be very stiff, place on a sieve and return all that passes through to the bowl to be beaten again. When the cream is not very thick, or it is difficult to whip, add to it and beat with it the white of 1 egg, or soak one-fourth ounce of gelatine for 1 hour in one-half cup cold milk, then set the cup of

<page_number>94</page_number>
DESSERTS.

gelatine and milk into boiling water over a fire, and stir till dissolved; cool, and whip into the cream. Set it on ice or in a very cold place. It may be served in various ways. Baked apples, and fresh or preserved berries are delicious with it. Jelly-glasses, one-third full of jelly and filled up with cream, make a very wholesome and delicious dessert.

**APPLE CUSTARD—1.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint apples,</td>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup sugar,</td>
    <td>Flavor if desired.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Stew tart apples and put through a sieve, mix in the proportions given and bake 20 minutes.

**APPLE CUSTARD—2.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>8 or 10 large apples,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>Sugar,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Flavor to taste.

Pare and core the apples and put in a deep dish ; fill the centers with sugar, add a very little water, and bake till done. Make custard with the eggs, milk, 4 tablespoons sugar, and a little cinnamon or nutmeg; pour over the apples while hot and bake till the custard is done. Serve cold.

**ALMOND CUSTARD.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>6 eggs, well beaten,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon lemon extract,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>¼ pound almonds, blanched and pounded.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix these ingredients together and bring to a boil, take from the fire and stir till lukewarm; put into cups or a mould to cool. If desired, cover with the whites of 4 or 5 eggs, well beaten, just before serving.

**BAKED CUSTARD—1.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>5 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
    <td>Flavor to taste.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the sugar and eggs together, scald the milk and pour over the other ingredients, stir together well and pour into china cups.
Set the cups in a pan of hot water, grate a little nutmeg upon each, or flavor with lemon or vanilla, and bake till firm. Eat cold from the cups. Or, add a little more sugar, pour the custard into a basin or pudding dish, set the dish into a dripping-pan of hot water and bake in a moderate oven. Try with a straw; if milky

DESSERTS.
<page_number>95</page_number>

it is not done. It should quiver like jelly when sufficiently cooked.

1 quart milk,
1 cup sugar,

Heat the milk, beat the eggs very light, add the sugar and nutmeg, stir all into the milk when boiling hot, strain and bake.

BAKED CUSTARD—2.

3 eggs,
Nutmeg.

1 quart milk,
1 egg,
2 bananas.

When the custard is cool pour it over the fruit sliced thin.

BANANA CUSTARD.

1 quart milk,
4 tablespoons sugar,
1 tablespoon cornstarch, heaping,
3 bananas.

CHEAP CUSTARD.

1 pint milk,
2 eggs,

Flavor with lemon or vanilla.

Put the milk into a double kettle, let it come to a boil, beat the eggs and sugar, stir into the milk, wet the flour in cold milk, see that there are no lumps in it, then stir into the milk and cook 3 or 4 minutes. Flavor when cool.

COFFEE CUSTARD.

4 eggs,
½ pint milk,

Cook as for boiled custard.

CORNSTARCH CUSTARD.

1 quart milk,
2 eggs,
3 tablespoons cornstarch,

Butter size of a hickory nut,
¼ teaspoon salt,
Flavor.

Wet the starch in a little of the milk, heat the remainder to near boiling, in a pail set in boiling water. The proper heat will be indicated by a froth or film rising to the top; add the starch till it thickens, stirring constantly, then the eggs, well beaten with the sugar; butter and salt; cook, stir briskly, take off and beat well and flavor. Served with grated coconut—it is very nice.

HOMINY CUSTARD.

3 tablespoons hominy,
Salt,
Milk,

To 1 pint of milk add hominy and salt; boil gently until it

Sugar,
Flavoring,
Jam or stewed fruit.

DESSERTS.

thickens, then add more milk, cook until sufficiently thick ; add sugar, and flavor to taste. Pour into a mould and serve cold with jam or stewed fruit.

ORANGE CUSTARD.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>4 oranges,</td>
    <td>3/4 cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
    <td>Powdered sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Peel and slice the oranges into an earthen dish. Sift fine sugar over each layer. Make a custard, using 2 whole eggs and the yolks of 2 more, well beaten, milk and the sugar. Flavor with vanilla; steam until done and pour over the oranges. Beat the whites of 2 eggs and sweeten with fine sugar, pour over the custard when cool and set in the oven 5 minutes. A little orange juice in the frosting improves it. If desired, leave out 1 egg and add 1 tablespoon cornstarch.

RICE CUSTARD.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1/4 cup rice,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons powdered sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon vanilla,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Pinch of salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the rice in the milk and add salt; steam until soft; just before taking from the fire add the yolks of eggs beaten with the sugar, and mix thoroughly; flavor; do not cook it any more. Pour into pudding dish and cover with the whites, beaten stiff with the powdered sugar; brown slightly in the oven, and serve cold with tart jelly.

SNOW CUSTARD.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>13/4 pints milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3/4 box gelatine,</td>
    <td>1 lemon, juice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup cold water,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint boiling water,</td>
    <td>Vanilla.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Soak the gelatine 1 hour in the cold water, add the boiling water, stir until thoroughly dissolved, add two-thirds of the sugar, and the lemon juice; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and when the gelatine is quite cold, whip it into the whites, a spoonful at a time. Whip steadily and evenly, and when all is stiff, pour in a mould, or in 1 dozen egg glasses previously wet with cold water; set in a cold place. In 4 or 5 hours turn into a glass dish. Make a custard of the milk, yolks of eggs. The remainder

DESSERTS.
<page_number>97</page_number>

of the sugar, flavor with vanilla, and when the meringue or snowballs are turned out of the mould, pour this around the base. If desired, omit the beaten whites, and pour the jelly into the mould. Serve with the custard, or a whipped cream, or the whites, well beaten, and sweetened with 3 tablespoons powdered sugar.

**STEAMED CUSTARD.**

5 eggs,
$\frac{3}{4}$ cup sugar,

Put the milk over the fire in a double kettle; when boiling, add the sugar and the eggs, well beaten. When it begins to thicken, remove from the fire, cool and flavor. Pour into custard cups and place in a steamer over boiling water. Steam until thick and firm; cool and grate nutmeg over the top of each, if desired.

**STEAMED CUSTARD.**

Custard,
6 eggs, yolks,
3 cups milk,

Steam and frost.

Frosting for Custard.
6 eggs, whites,

To the beaten whites add sufficient sugar and cocoaanut to stiffen.

**GOOSEBERRY FOOL.**

Gooseberries,
Sugar,

Milk to dissolve gelatine.

Remove stems and blossoms from gooseberries, stew to a thick pulp, sweeten to taste, and put through a sieve, if desired. Sweeten to taste and whip the same quantity of cream as gooseberry pulp, dissolve gelatine as for Whipped Cream, and add in the proportion of 2 tablespoons to 1 quart of whipped cream. Reserve one-fourth of the whipped cream, add gooseberry pulp to the remainder gently, taking care not to break it down. Put into custard glasses, and heap each glass with the whipped cream. Set on ice till served.

1 quart milk,
Vanilla or lemon,

1 cup sugar,
$\frac{3}{4}$ cup grated cocoanut,
Pinch of salt.

Cocoaanut,
Sugar,

Cream,
Gelatine,

<page_number>98</page_number>

**PASTRY.**

As long as Americans have gained a reputation for being a pie-eating people, it is desirable that the pies themselves shall be well made. People mistake who consider pastry made with little shortening as particularly healthy. Crust which is tough and heavy is far more hurtful than that of a light, tender, and flaky composition.

Use the best materials in making pastry. Butter and lard should be sweet, fresh, and solid. Have the water ice-cold, and make the pie-crust in a cool place. It is much improved by the addition of a little teaspoon of baking powder to one quart of flour. Pastry is nicer to stand two or three hours in a cold place after making, before using, and it may be kept in a close-covered dish in an ice-chest for several days, and be improved. Some brands of flour, though better for bread, will never make good pastry, and regular pastry flour will be found cheaper as well as "eer." Brush the lower crust of the pie with the white of an egg to prevent its becoming soggy, and a sprinkling of flour and sugar before filling prevents the leaking of juices. Dredge a little flour over fresh small fruits, after adding sugar, before laying on the upper crust; it is nicer than cornstarch, and is absorbed better in the pie. For custard pie, sift flour, one tablespoon to a pie, into the sugar, and mix well together before adding the beaten eggs. This gives the consistency desirable in serving, and does not affect the taste. The milk for custard, squash, pumpkin or lemon pies should be hot when added to the other materials. Do not fill pies until ready to bake, and stewed fruit must be cool before using or the pastry will be sodden.

Many cooks prefer in making pastry to omit some of the butter.

<page_number>98</page_number>

<page_number>99</page_number>

**PAstry**

from the general preparation, and cutting the paste into equal parts, roll the rest of the butter into one of them for an upper crust. Cut a piece from the other paste, roll from the center out, and cover the pie plate; fit it well, and trim off the edges with a sharp knife. Cut off a piece from the richer paste sufficient for an upper cover, roll out and gently lay one half over the other. Cut through the fold five times near the center, in a slanting line. Fill the plate with the pie mixture, wet the top edge of the rim, lay on the upper crust, turn back the half that was doubled over, and fold the upper edges carefully over the lower ones, or press them lightly together. The edge can be ornamented with the indentations of a three-tined fork. Glaze a pie by brushing it over with the white of an egg before baking.

Use tin, not earthen, plates in baking; dust them with flour, but never grease them. Slip the pies off to earthen ones as soon as baked to prevent the softening of the crust.

A meringue is made in the proportion of one tablespoon of sugar to the white of an egg; it should be spread upon the pie as soon as baked and returned to the oven to brown slightly.

The oven is at the right heat for baking when twenty can be counted while holding the hand there, and the same temperature should be maintained throughout the baking; this heat will give a rich brown color, and a flaky appearance to the pie. It is of great importance that the oven should be at the right and steady heat to obtain the best results for the money, time, and work expended in preparation.

**PUFF PASTE.—1**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound butter,</td>
    <td>1 cup ice-water</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound flour,</td>
    <td>1 egg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Wash the butter, and set on ice. Have the ice-water ready, and make the paste in as cool a place as possible. Weigh out the sifted flour, put into a large bowl, and break the egg into a hole made in the flour; work it in handling as little as possible. Add the ice-water, making a soft paste, and roll out. Divide the but- ter into 6 parts, break 1 part into bits, and put on the paste. Dust with flour, fold paste from the sides to the center, and then in 3 layers. Turn the sides round and roll out thin; break another

<page_number>100</page_number>
PASTRY.

part of the butter into bits and repeat the former process. In a similar way use the remaining parts of the butter, and after the final rolling and folding, set it in the ice box for 1 hour before using. Roll the upper crust of the pie quite thick, and if a flat earthen plate is used lay two narrow strips of paste on the lower crust around the edge of the plate. The pie will be as nice if a plainer paste is used for the lower crust. This recipe makes nice tarts and patties.

All puff paste requires a strong, steady heat to bake it nicely.
**PUFF PASTE—2.**
¾ pound butter,
½ teaspoon cream of tartar,
1 pound sifted flour,
Ice-water.

Free the butter from salt by working it in water, form it into a square lump, and place on ice to harden. Put the flour into a bowl, and rub 2 ounces of butter very thoroughly into it; use enough water to make this of the consistency of the butter. Place the paste on the board, dusting it under and over with flour, and roll out in a piece 12 inches long by 6 wide; flour the butter well, and roll in a sheet 8 inches long and 5 wide. Place the sheet of butter on the paste, leaving one-half inch at the top and sides uncovered, and a large space at the bottom; mix cream of tartar with twice the quantity of flour, and sprinkle it evenly over the butter; fold the large part of the paste not covered with butter over on the butter, fold the other part with the butter on it over that, to make 3 layers of dough and 2 of butter. Roll out to its original size, dust with flour, fold it as before, roll out again, dust with flour, and fold again; repeat twice more, giving it 4 rollings and foldings; when rolled for the last time, cut it through in 2 even pieces, and place one on the other, and the paste is ready for use. In warm weather it is necessary to place it in a cool place after every second rolling, in very warm weather after each rolling, and sometimes on ice.

**PUFF PASTE—3.**
3 pints flour,
3 teacups butter,
Sift the flour; make a hole in the center, add the well-beaten yolks and enough cold water to make a soft paste. Dredge the board with flour, roll out the paste, being careful to flour the roll-
2 eggs, yolks,
A little salt.

PASTRY.
<page_number>101</page_number>

ing pin and the hands. Lift the rolled paste to make sure that it does not stick. Knead the butter until it is soft and divide into 6 parts. Spread one part on the paste, fold the edges till they touch one another, roll out, spread on another part of the butter, roll again, and repeat until all the butter is used. Roll this up and lay it over ice until nearly frozen, or put it in a cold cellar.

GOOD PASTE.—1

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup lard,</td>
    <td>1 cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>A little salt,</td>
    <td>2 eggs, whites,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>5 cups flour.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Work lard and butter lightly into the flour, beat whites of eggs in the water used for mixing, add a piece of soda size of a small pea and mix. Handle as little as possible. For the upper crust, roll in a little more butter.

GOOD PASTE.—2

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound sifted flour,</td>
    <td>½ pound lard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ pound butter,</td>
    <td>1 cup water,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>¼ teaspoon salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Rub or cut the shortening into the flour, leaving out a little of the butter ; mix with a knife while adding the water ; roll out into a thin sheet, having board and pin well floured ; cut the remainder of the butter into little pieces and spread one-half on the paste, dredge with flour, roll up, and cut in halves ; divide one of these into 3 parts, roll these out and cover as many pie plates. Take the other half and dot with the bits of butter ; dust with flour, fold from the sides toward the center, roll thin, fold in 3 layers, and cut into 8 equal parts ; flour the ends, roll out and cover the pies.

POTATO PASTE.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 cups sifted flour,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup mashed potato,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Ice-water or milk.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the potato through a colander, and mix with the flour, butter and salt, adding enough liquid for a stiff paste. Roll out and use for meat pies.

SUET PASTE.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups sifted flour,</td>
    <td>1 cup cold water,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup suet, chopped fine,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>¼ teaspoon baking powder.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the salt and baking powder into the flour, adding the suet.

<page_number>102</page_number>
PASTRY.

from which every bit of fibre has been removed. Rub all together with the hands, and add water sufficient to make a firm, soft dough. Roll out. Nice for apple dumplings or meat pies.

APPLE PIE—1.

Select sound, tart apples ; pare and core without breaking them, allowing 4 for each pie. Put in a stewpan with a little lemon juice, a strip of yellow peel, some sugar and enough water to cook until they can be easily pierced. Quarter more apples, put them in another stewpan with lemon juice, peel, sugar, and enough water to cover; stew these to a jam. Add a lump of butter and one-fourth the bulk of the apple in peach marmalade; rub all through a colander. Line pie plates with good paste ; put on the bottom a layer of apple jam, set 4 whole apples in each pie, fill the cavities in the apples and the spaces between with the marmalade. Put strips of the crust, one-half inch wide, in a lattice-work across the top between the apples, and trim the edge neatly with 1 or more layers of notched paste. Bake in a quick oven 20 minutes. See that it bakes evenly. Serve with cream.

APPLE PIE—2.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Tart apples,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon water.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Line a deep plate with crust, sprinkle with sugar and flour, fill with sliced apples; add sugar, cinnamon, butter, and water. Cover with pastry, and bake from 30 to 45 minutes. Or, line pans with crust, fill with sliced apples, cover with paste and bake ; take off cover, put in sugar, bits of butter and seasoning; replace crust and serve warm. It is delicious eaten with sweetened cream.
Crab apple pie, if made of "transcendents," will fully equal those made from larger varieties of apples, but will require a full cup of sugar to each pie.

APPLE COBBLER.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 large apples,</td>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon,</td>
    <td>¼ teaspoon cloves.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Pare and core the apples, and cut each into 8 pieces. Lay in a deep plate lined with paste, add sugar, spice and a little water. Cover with puff paste, and bake slowly for 1 hour. Serve with

PAstry. <page_number>103</page_number>

cream, or a sauce. Peach cobbler is made in a similar way, but the spices are omitted.

APPLE CUSTARD PIE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>Sour apples,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 tablespoons butter,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 teaspoon cinnamon.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Peel, core and stew the apples. Rub through a colander and to 1½ cups of apple add the other ingredients. Beat well together. Bake with only one crust, using the whites of the eggs with 2 tablespoons of sugar for a meringue. Brown nicely by returning it to the oven for a short time. Or, to 1 cup of strained apple add 1 cup each of sugar and cream, and 1 well-beaten egg; mix in the given order. Flavor to taste, and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven.

DRIED APPLE PIE—1.
Stew dried apples with a little lemon peel till soft, sweeten to taste, add a slice or two of lemon, put through a coarse sieve, stir in a beaten egg, add a piece of butter, and bake with 2 crusts.

DRIED APPLE PIE—2.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart dried apple sauce, 1 cup raisins,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons melted butter,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Flavor with nutmeg or lemon.

Press the dried apple sauce through a sieve, add the other ingredients, bake in 2 crusts and serve warm.

DRIED APPLE PIE—3.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>¾ teacup mashed apple,</td>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sweet cream,</td>
    <td>Sugar to taste,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Flavor with lemon.

Beat the apple and egg together 3 minutes, add the cream and sugar and beat 2 minutes. This makes 1 pie; bake with 2 crusts.

APPLE MERINGUE PIE.
Cook tart and juicy apples, put through a colander, add sugar, and flavor to taste; fill the crust and bake. When done cover the apple with a meringue made of the well-beaten whites of 3 eggs and 3 tablespoons sugar. Put into a quick oven till the meringue is "set," and eat cold. In their season substitute peaches for apples.

<page_number>104</page_number>
PASTRY.

**PUMPKIN PIE—**

1 pint pumpkin, sifted,
4 eggs,
3 pints new milk,
A little butter,

Warm the pumpkin, and stir in the salt, spices, sugar, and well-beaten eggs. Mix and add the milk heated sufficiently to melt the butter. This quantity makes two large pies.

**PUMPKIN PIE—3.**

½ pint milk, good measure,
1 large tablespoon sifted pumpkin,
¼ cup sugar,
Salt,

Beat together the pumpkin, flour and spices; add the sugar and well-beaten egg. Add milk and stir all together. This makes one pie.

**RAISIN PIE—**

1 pound raisins, boiled an hour,
1 cup sugar,

Juice of 1 lemon,
1 teaspoon melted butter.

Bake with 2 crusts. This is sufficient for two pies. The pies should be as juicy as apple pies when baked, and, if preferred, 2 tablespoons of flour may be added to the ingredients.

**RASPBERRY PIE—1.**

1 pint raspberries,
A little flour,
¼ cup sugar,
1 tablespoon butter.

Line the pan with good crust and fill with the berries; spread over them the sugar, flour and small bits of butter. Wet the edge of the crust, put on the upper crust and pinch the edges closely together. Cut holes in the upper crust to allow the air to escape. Bake one-half hour.

**RASPBERRY PIE—2.**

Line pie tins with plain crust, sprinkling flour thickly over the bottom, and if dried raspberries are used, they must previously be soaked in water until of the original size; fill with the berries, dredge on flour, spread thickly with sugar, add a few bits of butter, and cover with an upper crust. If a richer pie is desired, omit the top crust, and pour over 1 cup of whipped sweet cream. Bake quickly.

PUDDINGS. <page_number>105</page_number>

ROLLED APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Peel and chop fine tart apples, make a crust of 1 cup rich buttermilk, 1 teaspoon soda, and flour enough to roll; roll half an inch thick, spread with the apple, sprinkle well with sugar and cinammon, cut in strips 2 inches wide, roll up like jelly cake, set the rolls in a dripping pan, lay a teaspoon of butter on each, put in a moderate oven, and baste them often with the juice.

APPLE ROLLY-POLY.

Peel, quarter and core sour apples, make a rich soda biscuit dough, or raised biscuit dough may be used if rolled thin, roll half an inch thick, slice the quarters, and lay on the prepared paste or crust, roll up, tack ends in, prick deeply with a fork, lay in a steamer and place over a kettle of boiling water, cook 1½ hours.
Or, wrap in a cloth, tie the ends and baste the sides together, put in a kettle of boiling water, and boil steadily 1½ hours. Cut across in slices and serve with sweetened cream, or butter and sugar. Cherries, dried fruit, any kind of berries, jelly, or apple butter may be used. With the last two add raisins.

BANANA PUDDING.
1 cup sugar,
1 cup water,
1 heaping tablespoon butter,
2 teaspoons baking powder,
Flour to make a thin, smooth batter.
Bake in two deep tins. Slice 3 bananas, and place between with a sprinkling of sugar. Serve warm with thin cream. One-half of this recipe makes enough for a family of four. A slightly sour sauce flavored with vanilla is a substitute for cream,

BATTER PUDDING.
2 cups milk,
2 cups flour,
1 large teaspoon baking powder,
Salt.

Sift the baking powder into the flour, add salt, and if liked a little melted butter, then the milk gradually, stirring carefully, and the well-beaten eggs, yolks and whites separately. This will bake in 50 minutes. If the pudding is to be boiled, make stiffer than for baking, and if fruit is used it must be very stiff. It should not stick to the knife when served. Serve with a rich sauce. The batter is nicer if 6 instead of 4 eggs are used.

<page_number>106</page_number>
PUDDING SAUCE.

**PUDDING SAUCES.**

**BUTTERLESS SAUCE.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ pint powdered sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
    <td>Flavoring.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ gill milk;</td>
    <td></td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Put the milk into a double kettle; when hot add the yolks of eggs beaten well with the sugar. Cook as custard, take off and add flavoring when cool. Just before serving mix the well-beaten whites lightly with the sauce.

**CARAMEL SAUCE.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>Large stick cinnamon,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 cloves,</td>
    <td>Lemon peel,</td>
    <td>1 cup boiling water,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil these together 10 minutes. Make a caramel from 4 table-spoons granulated sugar and 2 table-spoons water. Cook it over a hot fire in an old tin pan; stir with a smooth stick until the water evaporates, and it is a nice brown color. Strain the sauce over the caramel, let it come to a boil and remove from the fire.

**CHOCOLATE SAUCE.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup milk,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons grated chocolate,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup cream,</td>
    <td>2 eggs, yolks,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon vanilla.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil the chocolate in the milk; beat the eggs and sugar together, and pour over them the hot milk; whip in the cream, cook like boiled custard, and add vanilla after it is taken from the fire.

**CREAM SAUCE—1.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup powdered sugar,</td>
    <td>½ cup sweet cream,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
    <td>½ cup boiling water,</td>
    <td>Flavoring.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the cream, the boiling water, and cook a few minutes in a double boiler or a pail set in boiling water, stirring constantly. Flavor when cool.

**CREAM SAUCE—2.**
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint cream,</td>
    <td>¼ cup sugar,</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 eggs, whites,</td>
    <td>Nutmeg.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Let the cream come almost to boiling in a custard kettle; set off, add the sugar and grated nutmeg, with a little rose-water, if liked. Stir thoroughly, and when cool add the well-beaten whites of eggs. Set in hot water to keep warm till needed, stirring occasionally.

PUDDING SAUCE.
<page_number>107</page_number>

GOLDEN SAUCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs, yolks,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons boiling water,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>Lemon juice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>Nutmeg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat the eggs and sugar until creamy. Set the bowl into a kettle of boiling water and beat steadily while pouring in the boiling water. When thick and foamy, remove from the fire, add the juice of 1 lemon, and grate nutmeg on the top of the sauce. The juice of an orange and half the grated rind may be used instead of lemon juice and nutmeg.

HARD SAUCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup powdered sugar,</td>
    <td>½ cup butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Lemon juice,</td>
    <td>Nutmeg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Cream the butter and sugar and beat in the lemon juice. Place in a mould, set on ice, and serve when cold, grating a little nutmeg over it. This is made more delicate by adding the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs before setting away to harden.

JELLY SAUCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup boiling water,</td>
    <td>½ cup cold water,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ cup jelly,</td>
    <td>2 teaspoons sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 teaspoons cornstarch.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt the sugar and jelly in the boiling water, and stir into it the cornstarch dissolved in the cold water, let it come to a boil and serve hot.

LEMON SAUCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups boiling water,</td>
    <td>2 lemons,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 teaspoons cornstarch,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat eggs, sugar, butter and cornstarch together, and pour over them the boiling water, stirring constantly; strain and cook over boiling water until thick; remove from the fire, and add the juice and grated rind of the lemons.

MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup water,</td>
    <td>4 tablespoons butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon flour.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Melt the sugar in the water over a slow fire; remove the scum; add the butter mixed well with the flour; boil 5 minutes, and serve with boiled puddings.

<page_number>108</page_number>

**PUDDING SAUCE**

**VANILLA SAUCE.**
1 cup milk,
3 eggs,

Heat the milk in a double boiler, and pour over the yolks of eggs beaten with the sugar; strain, and return to the kettle; cook till it thickens, remove from the fire and add vanilla and the beaten whites of eggs.

**VINEGAR SAUCE.**
1 cup brown sugar,
2 cups boiling water,
A pinch of salt,

Omit the water and beat the other ingredients well together. Add the boiling water, stir thoroughly and boil 10 minutes. Serve.

1 large teaspoon vanilla,
2 tablespoons sugar.

1 tablespoon butter,
1 tablespoon vinegar,
1 tablespoon flour.

<img>A stylized illustration of a teapot with a heart-shaped spout and a heart-shaped base, filled with tea leaves.</img>
# DRINKS

P
URE water is the one necessary beverage, but desire or habit makes three others essential. Of these three, chocolate both nourishes and strengthens the system, and science claims that coffee is not only a gentle, natural stimulant, but nourishing in a small degree, while tea is stimulating and astringent. Many object to chocolate because of its hearty character, but there are various preparations which adapt it to the most delicate. Tannic acid, the injurious property in coffee and tea, is repressed or developed in making.

Do not make coffee in a tea-pot, or tea in one used for chocolate, but let each have its own vessel. Keep them clean, scald before using, and afterward wash in fresh water, rinse, and dry immediately.

As the life of water is destroyed by long boiling or re-boiling, use only fresh-boiled water in making these drinks. Give the preference to soft rather than hard water for such purposes.

Hot milk is a most refreshing and nourishing beverage, and one that cannot be too highly recommended. Directions for preparing it are given in the recipe.

During hot weather, drinks made from fruits, or their juices in some form, are especially grateful and necessary to health. The acid of lime and lemon juice, and of shrubs, or the sub-acid of fruit juices, not only allay thirst, but cool the blood and supply a natural tonic greatly needed by the system.

Two recipes are given for the old-fashioned root beer made by the mothers and grandmothers of the present generation. They will be found most palatable as well as healthful and invigorating.

For an immediate effect when warm or cold, hungry or exhausted, drink is preferable to a solid food, as some time is re-
<page_number>109</page_number>

<page_number>110</page_number>
DRINKS.

quired for the latter to affect the system. Cold water, not ice-water, in small quantities, is the best to allay great thirst. Hold it in the mouth close to the tonsils before swallowing, while keep-ing the palms of the hands wet and a wet cloth around the wrists.
The best drinks for the other conditions are milk, chocolate and broth.

COFFEE.

To avoid adulteration, buy coffee in the grain, either raw or in small quantities freshly roasted. The best kinds are the Mocha and O. G. Java; mix the two, having roasted them separately, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter. West India coffee, though of a different flavor, is often good.
Roast coffee with the greatest care—here lies the secret of success in coffee-making—and in small quantities, for there is a peculiar freshness of flavor when newly roasted. Pick over carefully, wash and dry in a moderate oven, increase the heat and roast quickly, either in the oven, or on top of the stove or range; in the latter case, stir constantly, and in the oven stir often, with a wooden spoon or ladle kept for this purpose. The coffee must be thoroughly and evenly roasted to a rich brown throughout, and must be free from any burnt grains, a few of which will ruin the flavor. It must be tender and brittle; to test it take a grain, place it on the table, press with the thumb, and if it can be crushed, it is done. Stir in a lump of butter while the coffee is hot, or wait until about half cold and stir in a well-beaten egg. The latter plan is very economical, as coffee so prepared needs no further clarifying. Keep in a closely-covered tin or earthen vessel. Never attempt other work while roasting coffee, but give it the entire attention. Grind fine, and only in the quantity needed, for the flavor is dissipated after grinding, even when covered. If properly roasted, coffee will grind into distinct, hard, and gritty particles, and not into a powder.

Physicians say that coffee without cream is more wholesome, particularly for delicate persons. There is an element in coffee which, combining with milk, forms a leathery coating on the stom-ach, and impairs digestion.

DRINKS.
<page_number>111</page_number>

PRAIRIE COFFEE.

1 pint corn meal,
3/4 cup molasses,
Water for stiff dough.

Mix, roll thin, cut out like yeast cakes ; put in a pan and dry in the oven. When thoroughly dry, brown very dark. To use, put 2 or 3 of the cakes and 1 tablespoon of the coffee in the pot, pour on boiling water, let boil and settle.

RICH AND STRONG COFFEE.

1 cup best ground coffee,
1 egg, white,
1 quart boiling water,
3/4 cup cold water.

Beat the white, mix with the coffee, add cold water, put in the coffee-pot and stir in gradually the boiling water. Boil 1 minute. Take from the fire and put on the hearth to settle.

STEAMED COFFEE.

Put coffee into the pot, pour boiling water on it ; place this pot, which is made to fit, into the top of the teakettle, and cook from 10 to 20 minutes over boiling water. This makes a clear, delicious coffee. Some persons hold that by first wetting the coffee with cold water, bringing it to boiling point, and then pouring in boiling water, more of the strength is extracted.

VIENNA COFFEE.

Filter the coffee, allowing 1 tablespoon ground coffee to each person, and 1 for the pot. Put 1 quart of cream into a custard kettle or pail set into boiling water, where it will keep boiling ; beat the white of 1 egg to a froth and mix well with 3 tablespoons cold milk. As soon as the cream is hot, remove from fire, add the mixed egg and milk. Stir together for 1 minute and serve.

Another method is to pour boiling water over the coffee, cover closely, boil 1 minute, remove to the side of the stove a few minutes to settle and serve. Allow 2 heaping tablespoons coffee to 1 pint water.

GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM IN COFFEE.

Beat well the white of an egg, and add a small lump of butter, whipping all together. Pour coffee over this slowly, stirring so it will not curdle.

<page_number>112</page_number>

**DRINKS**

**ICED TEA—1.**

Prepare tea in the morning, making it stronger and sweeter than usual; strain and pour into a clean stone jug or glass bottle, and set aside in the ice chest until ready to use. Drink from goblets without cream. Serve ice broken in small pieces on a platter nicely garnished with well-washed grape leaves.

**ICED TEA—2.**

Iced tea should have no hot water poured over it, but be allowed to stand in cold water for several hours. It should be made very strong, then weakened with ice. Soft water should always be used for making tea.

**RUSSIAN TEA.**

Into freshly-steeped tea drop slices of lemon, without the seeds, in the proportion of 1 slice to 1 small cup of tea. It can be used with or without sugar, and is particularly nice if served cold with bits of ice in the cups.

**MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.**

**GINGER BEER—1.**

2 ounces ginger root,
2 ounces cream of tartar,
1½ pounds sugar,

Break the ginger root into small pieces, put in a large bowl or crock with the sugar, cream of tartar and lemon; pour on boiling water, and when lukewarm, add yeast. Let it stand 6 hours, strain, and put up in self-sealing bottles. It should be kept in a cool place.

**GINGER BEER—2.**

5 ounces ginger root,
½ gallon water
1 lemon, yellow peel

Ordinary ginger, tied in a bag, may be substituted for the root; boil the ingredients one-half hour, then add

4 gallons water,
5 pounds sugar,

Juice of 4 lemons.

Strain when cold, add the well-beaten white of 1 egg; let stand 4 days and then bottle.

<img>Eggs</img>

THERE is no food that contains so large a proportion of nutri-
ment according to its bulk as eggs; they are a meal in them-
selves. Plain boiled, they are wholesome; and it is asserted on
French authority that it is easy to dress them in five hundred dif-
ferent ways, economical and palatable. They contain phosphorus,
which is brain food, and also sulphur, which performs a variety of
functions in our physical economy. That they are too expensive
seems to be the excuse most often given for their non-appearance
during the greater part of the year; but at twenty-five cents a
dozen they are cheaper than steak at fifteen cents, or chickens at a
shilling a pound, and much more healthful during the warm
weather.

As a food for children, eggs cannot well be excelled, as they
contain in a compact form everything necessary to the growth of
the youthful frame. Eggs are not only food but medicine. The
white is very efficacious in case of burns; and the oil from the
yolk is quite a cure for bruises, cuts and scratches. A raw egg,
if swallowed in time, will effectually detach a fish-bone in the
throat, and the whites of two eggs are a sure and convenient anti-
dote for the poison of corrosive sublimate. They strengthen con-
sumptives and invigorate the feeble.

Many elaborate inventions for testing the newness of eggs have been patented, but to the housewife of experience they are not neces-
sary, and one lacking experience may very soon gain it. A piece
of pasteboard five or six inches square, with a hole in the center,
about an inch square, held in front of a strong light, is all the ap-
paratus necessary for the purpose, especially for determining the
freshness of light-shelled eggs. Place the egg against the hole,
and look through it; if it is a new-laid egg it will be quite full,
but after about twenty hours an air-chamber or open space can be
seen at the larger end, and this gradually enlarges as the egg grows
older. A bad egg will not only have a large air-space, but the
contents will be seen to have a mixed appearance towards the cen-

<page_number>113</page_number>

<page_number>114</page_number>
EGGS.

ter. Get a new-laid egg, and some of different ages, and look at them, and one such lesson will be sufficient. A piece of paste-board can be easily obtained, and if a lamp is not at hand, the sunlight will answer the purpose nicely, so the thrifty housewife need not pay for good eggs and receive poor ones.

A simpler way to examine them is to put them into a weak brine. A heaping tablespoon of salt dissolved in a quart of water will make it the right strength. Eggs that are not more than a day old will fall to the bottom of this brine; if more than six days old they will float; if very bad they are so buoyant as to ride on the surface of the brine.

To beat whites of eggs: Use an earthen dish, broader at the top than at the bottom, and the bottom deeper in the center than at the sides. Break the eggs gently, and allow the whites to fall in the basin while the yolks are kept in the shell. This is done by breaking the egg in the middle, opening slowly to let the white fall; if some remains turn the yolk from one half to the other till the whole has fallen. Add a very small pinch of salt to prevent curdling, beat slowly at first, and increase the speed as the egg grows light. It is done when it will not slide on the inclined surface of the dish.

There are few ways of preparing eggs that are really difficult, but these hints may prove helpful: A little pinch of soda should be added to all kinds of custard, and they will not whey so easily; if hot milk is called for in a recipe, remember that it must be poured over the eggs, instead of stirring the eggs into the milk, or they will be found cooked in little strings, or have a curdled appearance. This rule is reversed, however, in making soup of milk and eggs, when the stringy appearance is desirable. Where fruit is called for, be careful not to use too much juice, especially that which is stewed or canned. Try custard to determine if done by a clean broom straw or a knitting needle; if it comes out smooth, remove the custard from the stove at once.

A few directions for preserving eggs are given here: Eggs will keep in salt or when put down in lime, but are apt to taste strong after a time, and the whites become thin and watery. The best way is to dip them in a strong solution of gum arabic; dry them,

Eggs. 115

Dip again and dry thoroughly; then wrap each egg in paper, and pack them in bran. Use only fresh eggs, and one will have fresh eggs in the winter when wanted. It is some trouble, but like many other things requiring time and patience, the end pays for the work.

Eggs may be preserved by rubbing them with a preparation made of equal parts of beef suet and mutton tallow melted together. It should be soft enough to spread well when applied. Be sure that every part of the egg is touched, and when all are greased, begin with the ones first treated, wipe them with a cloth, roll them in paper, and pack them in bran. A French method is to smear them with olive oil in which a little beeswax has been melted; also to paint them over with varnish.

Another tested way is to pack them firmly in dry sawdust, and keep in a cool, dry place. There has always existed a great difference of opinion as to which end down eggs should be placed, in packing for winter use. W. H. Todd, the well-known Ohio breeder of poultry, gives what seems to be a sound reason for packing them larger end down. He says: "The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down the yolk will not break through and touch the shell, and thereby spoil." Another thing, if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not as liable to shrink away. These are two important reasons deducted from experiments, and they materially affect the keeping of eggs."

**RECIPES FOR COOKING EGGS.**

BAKED EGGS—1.
Plain baked eggs make a pretty breakfast dish. Take a deep earthen plate, butter it and break in the eggs, adding salt, pepper, bits of butter, and bake in a moderate oven. Garnish with curled parsley, and serve with buttered toast.

BAKED EGGS—2.
8 eggs,
Pepper and salt,
Break the eggs into a well-buttered dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, add the butter and cream; set in the oven and bake until the whites are set, or 10 minutes. Serve very hot. Grated cheese may be sifted over it.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>8 eggs,</td>
    <td>3 tablespoons cream,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Pepper and salt,</td>
    <td>Bits of butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Break the eggs into a well-buttered dish, sprinkle with pepper and salt, add the butter and cream; set in the oven and bake until the whites are set, or 10 minutes.</td>
    <td>Serve very hot. Grated cheese may be sifted over it.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<page_number>116</page_number>

EGGS.

EGG BASKETS.

Boil 6 eggs hard, cut nearly in half and extract the yolks; rub these to a paste with some melted butter, pepper and salt, then set aside. Pound the minced meat of cold roast chicken, duck or turkey in the same manner, and mix with the egg paste, moistening with melted butter, or with a little of the gravy. Cut off a slice from the bottom of the hollowed whites of the eggs, to make them stand; fill with the paste, and put them close together upon a flat dish. Pour over the gravy left from the roast, heated boiling hot, and mellowed by a few spoonfuls of cream or rich milk. Set into the oven 5 minutes, and serve.

<birds' nests—1.</b>
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 ounce fowl or meat,</td>
    <td>Chopped parsley,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac12; cup bread crumbs,</td>
    <td>Powdered thyme and majormarj.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>&frac12; pint stock,</td>
    <td>&frac12; lemon, grated rind and juice.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 egg,</td>
    <td>4 hard-boiled eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mince the fowl or meat fine; add bread crumbs, herbs and lemon juice, with the well-beaten egg to bind the mixture. Have the eggs warm, take from the shells and cover with the mixture. Fry them a light brown. Cut them in halves, and also cut off the end of the white, that they may stand on the platter. Have the stock hot, and well seasoned ; pour over the eggs and serve.

<birds' nests—2.</b>

Boil eggs hard, remove shells, surround with force-meat; cut in halves, fry or bake till nicely browned, and place in the dish with gravy.

<b>boiled eggs.</b>

Eggs cannot be too fresh for boiling, but a new-laid egg requires a little longer time in cooking than one three or five days old; to make it particularly nice, slip it into a covered vessel of cold water, and when the water boils it will be beautifully cooked, the white delicate as a jelly, not tough and hard as when ordinarily cooked by putting into boiling water. The nicest way to eat a soft-boiled egg is from the shell. Place the small end of the egg in an egg cup. The large end should have the shell removed; then take away a small piece of the white and there is ample room for salt, pepper, and butter, which may be mixed with the egg without difficulty. The serving, however, is a mere matter of

EGGS. <page_number>117</page_number>

taste, and many prefer the egg broken into an egg cup or glass.
Or, send the eggs to the table in a bowl, and pour on boiling water.
After 5 minutes drain, and cover with more boiling water. Serve in 5 minutes. This is a simple and healthy way of boiling eggs, and should always be used for invalids and delicate persons.
Eggs for salads, garnishings, and to be eaten hard, should be boiled from 30 to 45 minutes. They are unhealthy otherwise, and the yolks when mashed will not be mealy or free from lumps. To shell them, drop into cold water a few minutes, roll on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily. If they have been allowed to become cold, dip for 1 minute in boiling hot water, and proceed in the same manner.

**HARD-BOILED EGGS**

Ham or dried beef,
A little mixed mustard,
A bit of butter,
Hard-boiled eggs.

Cut the eggs in halves, take out the yolks, mix with the minced ham or dried beef, and season with salt and pepper; add the mustard and butter. Stuff each half of the egg and stand on a hot platter. Serve hot with a Bechamel sauce.

**Sauce.**

¼ teacup sifted flour,
¼ teaspoon salt,
A little black pepper,
A little parsley.

Rub flour and milk smooth, boil slowly, adding salt, onion, pepper and parsley. When thick, add butter the size of an egg and strain. Thin it with cream if necessary.

**BREADED EGGS.**

Boil 6 eggs hard. When cold, remove the shells, slice them lengthwise; dip each slice in a beaten egg, then in fine bread crumbs, and fry in butter or boiling lard. Serve hot.

**EGGS BROUILLE.**

<table>
<tr><td>6 eggs,</td><td>2 mushrooms,</td></tr>
<tr><td>½ cup milk or cream,</td><td>1 teaspoon salt,</td></tr>
<tr><td>3 tablespoons butter,</td><td>A little pepper,</td></tr>
</table>

Cut the mushrooms into dice, fry 1 minute in 1 tablespoon of butter; beat the eggs, salt, pepper and cream together, and put into a saucepan. Add the butter and mushrooms to these ingre-
<page_number>Nutmeg</page_number>

<page_number>118</page_number>
EGGS.

dients, stir over a moderate heat until the mixture begins to thicken, take from the fire and beat rapidly until the eggs become thick and creamy. Have slices of toast on a hot dish. Heap the mixture on these and garnish with points of toast. Serve immediatly.

EGGS À LA CREME.
Hard boil 12 eggs, and slice in thin rings. Butter well a deep baking dish, and fill with alternate layers of bread crumbs and egg slices. Sprinkle the layers with salt and pepper, adding bits of butter. Let the top layer be of bread crumbs. Cover with sweet cream and bake in a moderate oven.

CURRIED EGGS.
1 pint stock,
1 tablespoon curry powder,
8 hard-boiled eggs.

Slice the onions and fry in butter; add the curry and broth; stew till the onions are tender, then add the cream thickened with rice flour and simmer a few minutes. Cut the eggs in halves or slices, lay in a deep dish, and pour over them the sauce. Set the dish over boiling water till the eggs are hot, and serve.

DEVILED EGGS.
12 fresh eggs,
½ teaspoon mustard,
½ teaspoon powdered celery,
Butter, size of an egg,
4 tablespoons vinegar.

Boil the eggs, take off the shells and cut across in the middle; take out the yolks and mix them with the other ingredients; cut a thin slice from the end of the white of the egg, so each cup will set firmly on the platter, and fill with the prepared mixture. Garnish with celery, lettuce or nasturtium leaves. Serve with thin slices of bread and butter. Or, cut the eggs lengthwise in halves, take out the yolks, mash fine and beat into them with a fork a mayonnaise or other strong salad dressing. Fill and round up each white cup with the mixture, and arrange on lettuce or cress leaves, serving with cold boiled ham. In preparing for picnics fill to the level of the sides, join the halves together, and wrap in waxed paper.

<img>FISH</img>

RECENT investigation is said to prove that the value of fish, as a brain food, has been greatly exaggerated; however, as fish contains little fat, a large quantity of nitrogenous matter, and is easily digested it should frequently come to the table. The abundance and cheapness of fish, also make it desirable. One of the most common objections to a fish dinner is that it is not as attractive as a meat one, but this may be obviated by care in cooking the fish whole, and by taste in garnishing. There are many delicate ways of serving fish which, with the peculiar kinds of vegetables and sauces that accompany them, tempt the most fastidious appetite.

Fish may be divided into two classes as follows: Salt and fresh water fish; of which are red-blooded and white fish, rock and shell fish. These kinds may be procured fresh, dry salted, pickled or smoked.

Salmon, mackerel, and blue fish, are oily and rich, and may be boiled without losing their nutritive qualities to the same degree as dryer leaner fish. Some parts of halibut, as the fins, are very rank and oily, and are improved by boiling in more than one water. Fish should never be used unless it is perfectly fresh, as some kinds are poisonous when even slightly decayed. To ascertain if a fish is fresh, press on it with the finger. If the flesh is firm, hard, and elastic, it is good; but if the eyes are dull, and sunken, and the gills pale, it is unfit for food.

The flesh of fish will often become soft, even when fresh, by keeping it in water or on ice. This should never be done unless the fish is frozen; then it is necessary to thaw it in cold water. To keep fish cool and firm after cleaning, dry well, rub with salt, and lay on an open wooden rack, such as can be made at home, and place in a box or pan over ice, but not touching it; cover with

<page_number>119</page_number>

<page_number>120</page_number>
FISH.

a box or pan to keep in the coolness. Do not put fish into the re-
frigerator as it will taint the other food, especially milk, cream,
and butter. Fish out of season will not be good. It is better to
use something else.

Of course it is impossible to name all the excellent varieties, as
they differ with the locality. In the South is the shad, the sheep's-
head, the golden mullet and the Spanish mackerel ; in the North
the luscious brook trout, and the wonderful and choice tribes that
people the inland lakes. Among the best of the fresh-water fish, sold
generally in the markets of the interior, are the Lake Superior trout
and white fish, and, coming from cold waters, they keep best of all
fresh-water fish ; the latter is the best, most delicate, and has fewer
bones, greatly resembling shad. The wall-eyed pike, bass and pickerel
of the inland lakes are also excellent fish, and are shipped,
packed in ice, reaching market as fresh as when caught, and are
sold at moderate prices. Both eastern and Californian salmon are
shipped in the same way, and sold fresh in all cities, with fresh cod
and other choice varieties from the Atlantic coast, but the long
distance they must be transported makes the price high. The cat-
fish is the staple Mississippi River fish, and is cooked in various
ways.

Eels must be dressed as soon as possible, or lose their sweetness ;
cut off the head, skin them, cut them open, and scrape them free
from every string. They are good except in the hottest summer
months, the fat ones being best. A fine codfish is thick at the
back of the neck, and is best in cold weather. In sturgeon, the fish should be white, the veins blue, the grain even and the skin tender.
Sturgeon is often put up and sold for smoked halibut.
The skin of halibut should be white ; if dark it is more likely to
be sturgeon. Smoked salmon should be firm and dry. Smoked
white fish and trout are very nice, the former being a favorite in
whatever way dressed. Select good, firm, whole fish. White
fish is very nice broiled. Each of the above is better than herring.
Fish should be dressed as quickly as possible in strong salt and
water, and, to avoid the necessity of using much water about them,
wash with a cloth wet in salted water. Wipe dry, and let lie in
the cooler two hours, if possible.

FISHL
<page_number>121</page_number>

To clean a fish, remove the scales by scraping with a sharp knife, or common iron card, from the tail to the head. Lay it on a smooth board, and scrape slowly, so as not to scatter the scales. Rinse the scraper often in a pan of water. If the fish is to be served whole do not remove the head and tail. Split it open from the gills half way down the body, and remove the entrails, scrape, and clean with a cloth. Be sure to remove all the blood near the back bone, and the sound. If the fish needs to be skinned, as do suckers, and some others, cut a thin, narrow strip down the back, removing the dorsal fin; cut around the neck, insert the knife, and, by aid of thumb and fingers, strip the skin down toward the tail. If it needs to be boned after cleaning and skinning, begin at the tail, and run the knife up the backbone, scraping it clear of flesh, and be careful not to break the flakes. When both sides have been scraped clean, slip the knife under the large bone and remove carefully; the small bones must be pulled out separately, leaving the flesh in shape on the board. Fish with many bones, as pickerel, shad, herring, etc., are not boned.

A boned fish may be rolled up compactly from tail to head, and boiled, steamed, or baked. Large fish may be cut crosswise into steak. Salt fish should be soaked, at least over night, in clean soft water, skin side up; and most salt and pickled fish are improved by changing water, and soaking six hours longer. Wash all salt fish thoroughly in warm water before soaking.

All fish for boiling should be wrapped in a cloth kept for the purpose, and plunged into boiling water, except salmon, which should be put into lukewarm water to preserve the color, and mackerel and bluefish, which should be put on in cold water. Fish weighing two pounds should be cooked gently about twenty minutes after the water actually boils, and six minutes for each additional pound. Do not boil fish rapidly, as it breaks the flukes before the inside is done. Many prefer to steam fish, because steaming takes less from their nutritive qualities, but it requires more time. The juices of a fish are alkaline, therefore lemon, vinegar, and many of the sauces are excellent neutralizing agencies, and are often added in boiling. If one has not a fish kettle, a round of tin, pierced with holes like a colander to fit a kettle, may

<page_number>122</page_number>
FISH.

be used. Skewer and tie the fish into the required shape. The letter S is liked, but the circle is more easily made by inserting the tail in the mouth. Lay on the round of tin, and tie all to-
gether in a square of cheese cloth, or white netting, keeping the knot on top.
Put into the kettle and boil the required time. A strong fork or hook under the knot will lift it out without trouble,
and the fish may be slipped on the platter without breaking.

To bake fish, one should have a similar tin to fit the baking pan.
Put in something to hold it up from the bottom half an inch, and cover with thin slices of salt pork; fill the fish with a dressing made as for goose, only a little drier, and sew up. Skewer and tie into shape, and lay it on the pork, place slices of pork on the fish and fasten from slipping with small wooden pins. Bake care-
fully basting with melted butter, if very dry. When lifted, re-
move all the pork, put on the platter, and dot with several small lumps of butter. Salmon or lake trout, shad, white fish, and pickerel are excellent baked. Oysters or white onions may be used in the dressing. Slices of lemon may be laid over the fish when it comes to the table.

To broil fish, a good hard coal fire, or the coals of hard wood in a mass is needed, so that the fish may not be smoked. One can cut off the head and tail of small fish and broil whole. Split in halves a fish weighing one pound or less; cut larger fish in half, and divide crosswise to suit the broiler. Oily fish need pepper and salt, but dry ones, like white fish, need to be rubbed in olive oil or butter before broiling. Grease well a double wire broiler with pork fat, put in the fish, hold close to the coals, and turn often.
The flesh side should be cooked brown. Small fish need to cook five to ten minutes, and larger fish fifteen to twenty. When the fish is very thick, to brown nicely, lay the broiler on a dripping pan and put into the oven till cooked through. The flesh will easily separate from the bones when it is done. Herrings are sometimes wrapped in buttered brown paper and broiled in a pan in a hot oven; care must be taken that both pan and oven are very hot. Serve broiled fish with butter and pepper, and accom-
pany with salad dressing and sharp pickles.
Oily fish should never be fried. Dry fresh fish may be rolled in

FISHL 123

wheat or corn flour, and fried quickly in plenty of hot lard. Take out on a large wire receiver, and drain carefully over the pan; add pepper and butter when it comes to the table. Frying in a bit of butter or lard is neither broiling nor frying, but partakes of the nature of both. Cook until the under side is brown before turning, or it will break. Few fish will fry in less than three minutes, and a thick fish requires considerably more time. Have fish thoroughly dry that the flour in which it is rolled may not become pasty.

Stewed tomatoes or some acid sauce should be served with fried fish. Fish to be steamed should be prepared and served as if for boiling. Salt fish may be freshened, and broiled or toasted, and served with butter gravy, or simply as a relish, buttered and peppered. Smoked fish may be broiled or baked in buttered papers. Pickled fish may be freshened and boiled, toasted or baked. Mackerel and herrings should be laid lengthwise of the platter, heads and tails alternating. Always garnish the platter, if it be with nothing more than a wreath of wild grape vine in summer, or leaves from cabbage sprouts in winter, made bright with bits of beet pickles, or slices of lemon. Fish is spoiled by waiting, therefore remove all skewers and twine quickly and send to the table on hot dishes. One can easily select No. 1 salt mackerel, as it is marked by the dresser, at the time of putting up, with one slit with a knife at the right of the backbone inside. No. 2 has two slits, and if not marked at all they are of an inferior grade.

**FISH IN SEASON.**

Trout, white fish, pickerel, crabs, perch, etc., are eaten the year round.
Winter: Halibut, cod,haddock, flounders, white fish, smelts.
September to May: Oysters, clams.
May to September: Salmon.
November to August: Shad, brook trout, lake trout.
April to October: Mackerel, eels, lobsters.
June to October: Blue fish.

**FISIL**

**CLAMS.**

Fresh clams are heavy and their shells close tightly. To pre-
pare clams for boiling place a peck of fresh clams in a bushel
basket, sift well among them a pint of yellow corn meal, and cover
the basket for the night. The next day dash over them a pail of
clear cold water, give them another pint of meal and let stand an-
other day. They will then be in fine condition for boiling, the
feeding having very much improved them. Now place 2 quarts
of boiling water in a kettle, wash the clams well and pour them
into it. Let boil smartly until the shells are well open ; remove to
a large pan, and when cool enough, take off half the shell and
serve on the other half, with a little salt. This boiling is neces-
sary in preparing clams for cooking in any way. A pair of sharp
scissors are indispensable in removing the black heads, as should
always be done in preparing them for stews, soups, scallops and
chowders.

**SEASIDE CLAM BAKE.**

Have a level floor of stones for an oven, and pile on it seaweed
and burn, adding as it burns out, until the stones will crackle when
water is sprinkled upon them. Sweep off the ashes, and spread
on a thin layer of seaweed. Have the clams well rinsed in salt
water. Pile them on the hot stones, making them low in the center,
and a ridge around, sloping off to the edges of the rock. Lay
into the depression thus made halves of chicken, well dressed, ears
of green corn, potatoes, which have been thoroughly cleaned with
seaweed or a rough cloth, and a nice bluefish or pickled ; in fact,
almost any young, tender meat, fish, or vegetable is delicious
cooked in the steam of the clams. Cover the whole thickly with
seaweed, and over this throw a great piece of canvas to keep in
the steam. When the shells of the clams in the ridge are thor-
oughly open, which will be in about 45 minutes, the whole will be
done. Have ready melted butter, salt, vinegar, pepper, and brown
bread, to serve with this bake. One never gets to the dessert,

<page_number>1</page_number>

<img>Fruits illustration showing various fruits.</img>
**FRUITS**

THE value of fruits as food is far from being understood.
They are more or less abundant in every part of the world,
and nourish and refresh those who are wise enough to include them
among the necessaries of life.

Nature has provided under a variety of forms and coverings the
sweets and acids, flavors and oils, essential to the sustenance
of every portion of the body. First in importance and universality
is the apple, and the grape follows; these have been called the
king and queen of fruits. It has been quaintly phrased that “in
that case the berries might be members of the royal family,
peaches, pears, and plums, members of the cabinet, and tropical
fruits, the foreign ministers.” Fruits are first cousins to grains,
and science has demonstrated that together they constitute a food
which produces a well-developed, strong-limbed and clear-brained
people.

The athletes of ancient Greece were trained entirely on a vegeta-
ble diet. The boatmen of Constantinople, who live on bread,
cherries, figs, dates, and other fruits, have a wonderful muscular
development. The children of the desert exist for a long time
upon a handful of dates a day, and travelers speak of raisins and
 parched corn as common fare.

If this were a medical article many authorities might be cited
whose study and experience prove “that there is scarcely a dis-
ease to which the human family is now heir, but the sufferings
therefrom would be greatly relieved or entirely prevented by the
use of fruits which are now so generally forbidden” or neglected.
Particularly do the nervous American people need all that nature
can give in this line to supply the waste of the system, and rein-
force the vitality.

During the last ten years there has been a most gratifying in-
crease in the use of fruit, and the supply has multiplied and im-
<page_number>125</page_number>

<page_number>126</page_number>
FRUITS.

proved to meet the demand. Fruits are to be highly prized, whether fresh or dried, cooked or raw, as food or in beverages, and ought to constitute a large part of the daily fare. Wives and mothers are learning that a fairacious and fruit diet is not only desirable for the children, but is one of nature's agencies to provide a sound body and a sound mind, and aid in the formation of temperate desires and habits.

Taste, and often genius is shown in the arrangement of fruit for the table. All varieties are appropriate breakfast dishes, and the season determines largely what can be used. Fruits should be carefully selected. Melons should be kept on ice, so as to be thoroughly chilled when served. Nutmeg melons should be cut in the grooves, and have the seeds removed before serving. Water-melons should either be cut across the middle and served in the rind in sections, or have the heart removed and brought in on the plates. Apples should be perfectly ripe and pared before eating. From among the many varieties some can be found suited to almost every month of the year. Sweet apples are particularly nice baked and served with sweet cream. "Bananas are destined to be the fruit of the future," says one importer, and no other fruit possesses such a large amount of nutriment. The increase of the excellency, and the cheapness of grapes, as well as their abundance in every part of the country, put them within reach of all. The imported varieties flourish luxuriously in California, while the fineness of her raisins is giving her the precedence over the foreign trade. See that grapes are washed and drained well before serving. Oranges are to the southern and tropical lands what the apple is to the temperate zone, but the facilities of transportation give each section the benefit of all. Our own country now rivals foreign ones in the cultivation of oranges, while California and Florida vie with each other to produce the finest variety. The sourer oranges of the market come from Valencia. The simplest of many ways to eat an orange is to cut a slice from the top and eat the juice and pulp with a spoon. Medical experts claim that a sour orange eaten daily before breakfast produces usually a condition of almost perfect health. Peaches are not only a delicious fruit for food, but beautiful for table decoration. Apricots and

**FRUIT.** <page_number>127</page_number>

nectarines increase the variety with a delicate though peculiar flavor. Pears are more highly prized each year, and, combined with peaches, plums, and grapes, present a dish delightful to the eye, as well as grateful to the palate. The red or strawberry pine-apple is greatly inferior to the white one, though suggesting its delicious flavor. The sugar loaf, one of the sweetest and best pines, comes from Havana, while some choice varieties are produced in Jamaica. They should either be grated, or picked with a fork from the hard core, and sprinkled with sugar a little time before serving. Buy coconuts cautiously in summer, as the milk is quickly soured by the heat. Of almonds the Princess is the best variety to buy in the shell ; of the shelled, the Jordan is the finest, though the Sicily is good. For cake or confectionery, the shelled are most economical.

Many small fruits are used as long as the season allows. The fresh strawberry, raspberry and blackberry are in great demand on the table; their fine flavor is lost in some measure by cooking. The white currant is a favorite for the table and the red more commonly used in cooking. Red and white currants mixed form a pleasing dish. If berries are clean do not wash, but pick them over carefully. If they need to be washed, put into a sieve or colander and set in a large pan of water, allowing the water to flow around each berry. Drain quickly, and avoid mashing.

**CANNED FRUIT.**

"If anything is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well," finds a good illustration here, for poor work means either spoiled or injured fruit. Select perfect fruit, just ripe, fresh picked, and cook with very little sugar. Small fruits should be picked early in the morning, and canned immediately, if possible. Use a silver knife in preparing large fruits, and drop them into cold water to prevent change of color. All fruit should be carefully picked over, and cooked slowly in a porcelain or granite-lined kettle with a very little water and sugar. The sugar can be omitted without detriment to the fruit. It must boil to prevent fermentation, but not rapidly; or it will lose its flavor and its form.

The cans should be of glass, free from flaws and blisters, with a

<page_number>128</page_number>
**FRUIT.**

Tightly-fitting porcelain-lined cover. The rubbers should be fitted, washed in warm, not hot water, and if any are hard or stretched, reject them. They can be replaced from any rubber, crockery or ordinary grocery store for a trifle. Use pint jars for small fam-
ilies. See that the jars are washed, sweet, and the covers fitted be-
fore beginning to work.

While the fruit is cooking, thoroughly scald the cans and have them ready in a pan of hot water. When ready to fill, set one at a time on a hot plate, that if the juice is spilt it may be saved. It is better to prepare only two or three cans of fruit at once, as one is apt to get tired and not do the work well. Attend to only one can at a time. Fill level full, let settle a moment, and fill up again. Wipe off the neck of the jar, put on the rubber, fill up with hot syrup, if the fruit has settled more, and screw on the cover as tightly as possible, holding the jar with a damp towel. One object of excluding the air is to keep out germs which would cause the fruit to spoil. Boiling kills these and that is the reason for sealing at the boiling point. This is the whole secret of per-
fect canning. As the fruit cools, it will shrink and leave a vacuum.

If there is plenty of time, can fruit in the following manner: Fill the jars with the fresh fruit, put on the covers loosely, and set upon a rack, in a large boiler or kettle of lukewarm water. Let the water come within two inches of the top of the cans which must not touch each other. Cover the cans with a thick, folded cloth, and steam until the fruit is soft. A syrup made of equal parts of sugar and water can be poured into each jar, filling it two-
thirds full), or sugar can be sprinkled over the berries before putting into the jars, and then steam. If sugar is not used, fill each can full from one kept hot for that purpose, take out from the boiler with a cloth, set on the table, out of a draft, and screw on the top taken from a pan of hot water, first putting on the rubber rings. Everything about the fruit must be kept hot. Before screwing on the top, slip a silver spoon into the jar to allow the air bubbles to escape, then screw on it as firmly as possible, and in-
vert the can on a table in a cool place. Leakage will then be
known immediately. When the cans are cool, give another screw

**FRUIT.**

129

to the cover. Use labels, and apply with the white of an egg.
Set them in a cool, dark place, as light and warmth, as well as moisture, causes fermentation. If large mouthed bottles must be used in canning, steam the corks, pare them to fit closely, and drive them in with a mallet. Seal with plaster of Paris, or a wax made as follows: One pound resin, three ounces beeswax, one and one-half ounces tallow. Put it on the corks with a brush at first, and while cooling dip the mouth of the bottle into the melted wax.

To can successfully, have close-fitting covers for the cans, soft, firm rubber rings, keep everything hot, fill the cans full, and seal immediately. Use wooden or silver spoons, porcelain ladles, silver forks, clean, soft towels, and take plenty of time, care and patience.

**LENGTH OF TIME REQUIRED FOR COOKING FRUIT.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Blueberries and cherries.</td>
    <td>5 min.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Currants, blackberries, raspberries</td>
    <td>6 to 8</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Gooseberries and halved peaches</td>
    <td>10</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Strawberries.</td>
    <td>15</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Whole peaches.</td>
    <td>20</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Halved pears and quinces.</td>
    <td>30</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Sliced apples.</td>
    <td>30</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Crab apples and sliced pears.</td>
    <td>30</td>
  </tr>
</table>

**DR. SUSANNA DODD'S TABLE OF PROPORTIONS.**

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th>Fruit.</th>
      <th>Water.</th>
      <th>Sugar.</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Strawberries.</td>
      <td>5 quarts</td>
      <td>1 quart</td>
      <td>% cup.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Red currants.</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>3 quarts</td>
      <td>"</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Red raspberries.</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>2</td>
      <td>%</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Black raspberries.</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>5 pints</td>
      <td>%</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Raspberries and currants.</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>%</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Blackberries.</td>
      <td>5</td>
      <td>3</td>
      <td>%</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Gooseberries,</td>
      <td></td><td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td>< td></ td><<td colspan="2">for pines.</table>

May cherries.

Black Morello cherries.

Seeded Morello, for pies.

Grapes.

Cranberries.

Peaches.

Pears.

Bannock plums.

Green or blue gaga.

<table border="1">
  <thead style="background-color: #f0f0f0;">
    <tr style="background-color: #f0f0f0;">
      <th>Fruit</th>
      <th>Water (quarts)</th>
      <th>Sugar (cups)</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
 <tbody style="background-color: #ffffff;">
    <!-- Data table -->
  </tbody>
</table>

No sugar.

1 cup.

2 cups.

1 cup.

<page_number>130</page_number>
**FRUIT.**

**CANNED APPLE SAUCE.**
Make a syrup of 2 cups water to one-half cup sugar, and pre-
pare tart apples—mellow ones that are not likely to keep long may be used.
Put the fruit into the boiling syrup, let cook slowly till done, and can. Do not stir while cooking if it is desired to keep the fruit whole. Or, omit the sugar when canning, and heat and add sugar before using.

**CANNED APPLES AND QUINCES.**
Prepare equal quantities of apples and quinces. Cook quinces till tender in water sufficient to cover them, take out the quinces and cook the apples in the same water. Put in jars in alternate layers and cover with a syrup, allowing one-half pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit, and water to dissolve it. Let stand 12 hours, heat thoroughly and seal in cans.

**CANNED BERRIES.**
Select berries whose skins have not been broken, or the juice will darken the syrup; fill cans compactly, set in a kettle of cold water, with a cloth beneath them, over an even heat; when suf-
ficiently heated, pour over the berries a syrup of white sugar.
The richer the syrup is the better for keeping, though not for preserving the flavor of the fruit. Cover the cans closely to re-
tain heat on the top berries. To insure full cans when cold, have extra berries heated in like manner to supply shrinkage. If the fruit swims, pour off surplus syrup, fill with hot fruit, and seal up as soon as the fruit at the top is thoroughly scalded.

**PLAIN CANNED BERRIES.**
Pick out stems or hulls, if gathered carefully the berries will not need washing, put in a porcelan kettle on the stove, adding a small cup of water to prevent burning at first. Skim well, add sugar to taste, if for pies it may be omitted, let boil 5 minutes, fill glass or stone cans, and seal with putty or platter of Paris, unless self sealers are used. This rule applies to raspberries, blackber-
ries, currants, gooseberries, or any of the small berries.

**CANNED BLACKBERRIES.**
To each quart of berries allow 1 pint sugar, sprinkle the sugar over the berries and set in a warm place till the juice settles suf-

**FRUIT.** <page_number>131</page_number>

ficiently ; boil 15 minutes, put into cans and seal at once. Black raspberries may be canned in the same manner.

**CANNED BLUEBERRIES.**

Look the berries over carefully, wash them, and for every quart can, allow 1 cup sugar, add water enough to prevent burning, and cook 10 minutes. Can the same as other fruit. An ordinary crate holds sixteen quarts and will can about ten quarts.

**CANNED CHERRIES—1.**

Wash and stone the cherries, straining the juice and adding it to the fruit. Sprinkle with sugar, allowing 1 cup sugar to each quart. Let stand till the juice settles, cook slowly 10 minutes, pour into cans and seal. The flavor of cherries is improved by boiling a tablespoonful of the pits tied in a muslin bag, with each can of fruit. Remove before sealing.

**CANNED CHERRIES—2.**

¾ pint sugar,
2 pounds pitted cherries.
1 cup water

Sour cherries are best for canning, but white ones are also nice as they retain their color after cooking. They require less sugar. Make a syrup of sugar and water in the proportions given, skim, add the fruit, and boil 5 minutes ; pour into jars and seal at once.

**CANNED CITRON.**

1 pound fruit,
¼ pound sugar,
lemon, sliced,
Ginger to flavor.
Pare the citron, cut it in little blocks and steam till tender. Make a syrup of the sugar and water sufficient to fill the cans; let it boil 10 minutes, add the fruit, ginger and lemon, boil 3 minutes, pour into cans and seal.

**CANNED CURRANTS.**

Look the currants over carefully, removing stems; weigh, and heat slowly in a covered kettle; stew gently 20 or 30 minutes, and add sugar, allowing 1 pound to each pound of fruit. Shake the kettle occasionally to mix the fruit and sugar; do not boil, but keep as hot as possible till the sugar is dissolved; seal at once. White currants are excellent canned in this manner.

<page_number>132</page_number>
**FRUIT.**

**CANNED ELDERBERRIES—1.**
16 pounds elderberries,
7 pounds sugar,
3 pounds seeded raisins,
1 pint vinegar.
Cook thoroughly and seal in cans or jars.

**CANNED ELDERBERRIES—2.**
1 gallon elderberries,
1 quart seeded grapes,
1 quart N. O. molasses.
Boil half an hour and seal. This will also keep well in jars.

**GREEN GOOSEBERRIES.**
Cook the berries in water until white, but not enough to break them ; put into cans with as little water as possible, fill up the can with boiling water and seal ; when opened pour off the water and cook like fresh berries.

**CANNED GRAPES—1.**
Look over the grapes carefully, wash and weigh them, using one-half pound sugar to 1 pound fruit. Prepare the grapes by popping the pulps from the skins as directed in recipe for preserving grapes ; cook the pulp till the seeds are loosened, strain through a sieve, add the skins and sugar to the juice, cook 15 minutes, pour into cans and seal at once.

**CANNED GRAPES—2.**
Pick over the grapes carefully, wash in hot water, and fill the cans as solidly as possible; set on a cloth in a kettle of cool water and heat. When the water boils, add a syrup made of equal measures of sugar and water, filling the cans to overflowing, and seal. Take the cans from the water, cool, and tighten the covers.

**CANNED FRUIT JUICES.**
Press the juice from fresh, ripe fruit, strain through a flannel cloth, and to each pint add 1 cup granulated sugar; heat to the boiling point, and seal in small fruit cans or in bottles. In the latter use only new corks. Press them in firmly and cover well with plaster of Paris to exclude the air. Fruit juices are used in cakes, puddings, and sauces.

**CANNED PEACHES—1.**
3 pounds sugar,
1 pint vinegar,
1 peck clingstone peaches.
Pour boiling water over the peaches to remove the fuzz; make

**FRUIT.** <page_number>133</page_number>

a syrup of the sugar and vinegar, using a little water if required to cover the peaches ; cook soft, and can as usual.

**CANNED PEACHES—2.**

Pare, halve and stone; make a syrup of 1 pint granulated sugar to 1 quart water, cook in a porcelain kettle, and when it boils, drop in enough fruit for one can; watch closely, testing with a silver fork, remove very gently when the peaches are tender, and place in the can previously heated according to instructions. When filled, pour in the hot syrup, cover, and seal at once; add the fruit to the hot syrup, and repeat the operation. If there are more peaches than are needed, place them in another can and keep hot until more are ready, and so on until all are canned. Skim the syrup before adding peaches, making only enough at one time for two cans.

**CANNED PEACHES—3.**

Make a sweet syrup and keep it hot in a porcelain kettle on the stove. Have plenty of hot water in another one. Pare, halve and drop the peaches into the boiling water; let them remain until a silver fork will pierce them, then lift out with a wire spoon, fill a can, pour in all the boiling syrup it will hold, and seal immediately. Continue in this way, preparing and sealing only one can at a time; boil down the water with the syrup, if any is left; if not, add more sugar, and quite a nice marmalade will result.

**CANNED PEACHES—4.**

Pare and halve the peaches, removing the pits, and lay them in cold water. Make a syrup, using 1 pound sugar to 3 pints hot water. Fill the jars with the cold peaches, sprinkling each layer well with sugar; fill the jars with the hot syrup, and seal immediately.

**CANNED PEACHES STEAMED.**

To peel, place in a wire basket, dip into boiling water for a moment, then into cold water, and strip off the skin; this saves both fruit and labor. The fruit must not be too green or it will not peel, nor too ripe or it will be softened by the hot water. Place a cloth in the bottom of a steamer, half fill with the peaches from which the pits have been removed, cover tightly, set over a kettle of boiling water, and steam till they can be easily pierced with a

<page_number>134</page_number>
FRUIT.

silver fork. Prepare a syrup in a porcelain kettle; drop the peaches gently into the boiling syrup for a moment, remove to the cans, fill with the syrup, and seal at once. With the exception of the mode of peeling, this recipe applies equally well to pears.

CANNED PEARS.

Prepare and can as in recipe for canning peaches No. 2, except that they require longer cooking. When done they are easily pierced with a silver fork. A sliced lemon may be added.

CANNED PINEAPPLE.

Pare, cut out the eyes, and pick the pulp from the core of ripe pineapples; make a syrup, using 2½ pounds sugar to 3 pints water; boil 5 minutes, skim, add fruit, let boil up well, pour into hot cans and seal.

CANNED PLUMS.

2 pounds plums,
1 pint water,

Make a syrup of the sugar and water, wash the plums and put them into the syrup whole, boil 8 minutes, put into cans and seal at once. If pricked with a fork before placing in syrup they are less apt to burst. Cherries may be canned in the same manner. Twelve pounds of damsons and three pounds of sugar will fill six quart cans, and the same rule holds good for pears and peaches.

CANNED GREEN GAGE PLUMS.

Look the fruit over carefully and wash it; fill the cans and place in a boiler of cold water, having the water come up as far as possible around the cans and not boil over into the fruit. Cook till the fruit is tender—1½ or 2 hours. Take out the cans and pour the juice that has accumulated on the plums into a preserving kettle, and add sufficient sugar to make a rich syrup; let boil up well, fill the cans, return to the boiler, and let stand in the boiling water 15 minutes longer; screw on the tops, and remove from the water. Each can must be full before sealing.

TO KEEP PLUMS.

Select perfect plums, which are not too ripe, and fill a large crock, putting them in carefully so as not to break the skins. Then cover them with water, which must be poured on boiling hot, and turn over them a plate which will fit into the crock easily, al-

**FRUIT.** <page_number>135</page_number>

lowing none of the plums to rise above it. The water should be level with the top. Keep the crock in the cellar, and cover it with a board. A scum will rise on the plums during the winter, which helps to keep them. When wanted for use, scald them, pour off the water, add more, and stew until tender. Sweeten to taste.

**CANNED RASPBERRIES—1.**

To preserve the shape and color of red raspberries, put them carefully into the cans, sprinkling in sugar if desired. Fill the cans, shaking the berries down gently, and proceed as directed in recipe for Canned Berries, except that no syrup will be required. Put the covers on loosely to retain the heat, and cook till the fruit boils, filling the cans as it settles with extra berries heated in the same manner. Screw the covers down tight and take the cans from the water, being careful to tighten the covers as they cool.

**CANNED RASPBERRIES—2.**

Have ready a pan of ice-cold water. Look over the berries, and throw 1 quart at a time into the water. With a wire skimmer, dip them carefully into a granite-lined kettle. For every 3 quarts allow 1 large cup sugar. Let them stand till there is enough juice to cook without burning. Simmer slowly, being careful not to break the fruit. When thoroughly heated, fill the cans, screw on the top, shake down, open and fill again, sealing quickly, and keep in a dark, cool place. Black-caps require some water, as they are much dryer than the red berries. Red raspberries and currants in equal quantities may be canned in the same manner.

**CANNED RASPBERRIES WITH CURRANT JUICE.**

12 pounds sugar,
1 quart currant juice,
10 pounds red or black raspberries.

Make syrup of the sugar and juice; when boiling, add the fruit, and continue to boil for 10 minutes. Put in glass cans and fasten immediately.

**CANNED RHUBARB.**

Prepare and stew without sugar, and as little water as possible to prevent burning, before the juice flows. Have the cans ready, fill, and screw on covers quickly. When cool, wrap the cans in brown paper, and keep in a cool, dark place. Or, let simmer for

<page_number>136</page_number>
FRUIT.

half an hour in a syrup, using the same weight of sugar as fruit, then seal.
Always use granite, earthen, or glass for rhubarb. The leaves should be cut from the stalk as soon as it is pulled, and it should be kept in a cool place, to have it fresh and firm for a day or two.

CANNED STRAWBERRIES—1.

To each quart of fresh strawberries allow 1 coffeocup sugar. If there is no juice in the bottom of the fruit, add 1 or 2 table-spoons water to prevent burning before the heat brings out the juice; heat slowly, and when it boils, add the sugar, stir gently until it boils up again, and can immediately. It is better to cook only enough fruit for one can at a time. Usually a few spoonfuls of the syrup will be left to begin the next can. Strawberries are considered difficult to keep, but there is no trouble if the fruit is fresh, the can air-tight, and kept according to general directions for canning fruit.

CANNED STRAWBERRIES—2.

Place as many berries as can be put carefully into the preserving kettle on a platter; add sugar, allowing three-quarters of a pound to each pound of fruit, and let them stand 2 or 3 hours; pour the juice that has settled into the kettle, remove the scum that rises when it begins to boil, and put the berries carefully into it. Let them boil up thoroughly, and seal at once.

CANNED WATERMELON.

¼ pound sugar,
Ginger root.
1 pound fruit,

Cut off the rind, remove all the red part, and cut the rest in strips 2 or 3 inches long; boil until tender enough to pierce with a fork, remove from the water and drain a few moments. Have a syrup ready, using only what water is necessary to dissolve the sugar, skim, add the melon and a few pieces of ginger root, cook a few moments and seal in cans while hot.

FRUIT.
<page_number>137</page_number>

JAMS.

Cleanse the fruit carefully and bruise it well to prevent its hardening when cooked. Two methods for making are given. Allow equal proportions of sugar and fruit, mash thoroughly, and cook over a slow fire till it jellies. Or, allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to one pound of fruit. Cook the mashed fruit fifteen or twenty minutes before adding the sugar, heated, and from ten to thirty minutes afterward. Stir sufficiently to prevent scorching, watching carefully. In making butter or marmalade the same proportions are used, but the fruit is cooked to a firmer consistency. Jams are made from the more juicy berries, such as blackberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, etc.; butters or marmalades from the firmer fruits, such as apples, pineapples, oranges, peaches and apricots. All require the closest attention, as the slightest degree of burning ruins the flavor. Jam or marmalade is sufficiently cooked when no juice or moisture gathers about it, and it looks dry and glistening if dropped on a plate. Put up in glass or small stone jars, and seal or secure like canned fruits or jellies. Keep jellies and jams in a cool, dry, and dark place.

APPLE BUTTER.

Take ripe apples, crab apples give a fine flavor, put them in a preserving kettle, after cutting them in quarters, barely cover with water, boil soft, and strain through a sieve. To each pint of pulp add two-thirds of a pint of sugar, or 1 pint if the apples are very sour, and boil slowly for several hours until the mixture is firm. It must be stirred almost constantly to prevent burning. If any spice is desired use cinnamon. Put in stone jars or bowls, and when cold cover as for jelly. Or, strain off some of the juice for jelly, put the remainder of the apple through a sieve, and proceed as directed above.

PUMPKIN BUTTER.

Prepare 1 pumpkin ; cut it in small pieces, and stew till soft. Prepare 3 more pumpkins, stew, and strain through a coarse jelly bag; add the juice to the first pumpkin and boil 10 hours or more, until it is very thick, stirring often.

<page_number>138</page_number>

**FRUIT.**

**RHUBARB BUTTER.**

Allow 1 pound of sugar to each pound of peeled and chopped rhubarb; let them simmer together gently for an hour, or more if the rhubarb is old and tough.

APPLE JAM.
10 pounds apples,
7 pounds sugar,
3 lemons, juice,
1 lemon, rind.

Pare and slice the apples, boil all together slowly, stir, mash well, and cook until clear.

BLACKBERRY AND APPLE JAM.
2 quarts blackberries,
1 quart cooked apples,
2 quarts sugar.

Boil all together 20 minutes.

CURRENT JAM.

Pick from stems and wash thoroughly, put into a preserving kettle and boil 15 or 20 minutes, stirring often, and skimming; add sugar in the proportion of three-quarters of a pound to 1 pound fruit, or, by measure, 1 coffeecup to 1 pint mashed fruit; boil 30 minutes longer, stirring almost constantly. When done, pour in small jars or glasses, and seal; or secure like jelly, by first pressing paper, cut to fit the glasses, on the fruit, and then larger papers, brushed on the inside with the white of egg, whose edges turn down over the outside of the glass.

The addition of 1 pound of raisins to each gallon of currant jam converts this into French jam.

FINEAPPLE JAM.
Grate pineapple, and to 1 pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil 10 minutes. No water is required.

RASPBERRY JAM—1.
Make by itself, or, better, combine with currants in the proportion of one-third currants to two-thirds raspberries ; mash the fruit well, and proceed as in currant jam.

Make blackberry jam like raspberry, except that it should not be mixed with currants.

Strawberry jam is made exactly like blackberry jam.

RASPBERRY JAM—2.
Weigh the fruit and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit. Mash together and let stand a few hours or

FRUIT.
<page_number>139</page_number>

over night in the cellar or ice-box. Drain off the juice, and when boiling hot, add the berries. Simmer until as thick as desired. Pour into jelly tumblers, or bowls, and when cold cover with buttered paper.

STRAWBERRY JAM.

Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit, and 2 cups of red currant juice to every 4 pounds of berries if a tart flavor is liked. Put the berries in the preserving kettle, pour over the currant juice, and boil about 30 minutes, stirring almost constantly; dip off most of the juice, add the sugar, and boil 30 minutes more, skimming when necessary. Put in small jars or jelly glasses. Can the juice that is left over, or strain it for jelly.

GREEN TOMATO JAM.

Peel and slice green tomatoes, boil slowly 4 hours in a syrup made in the proportion of 1 pound sugar to 2 pounds tomatoes; when done flavor with lemons.

APPLE MARMALADE.

Peel, quarter and core a large panful of tart apples, cover with water and cook till very soft. Squeeze the juice and pulp through a thin jelly bag; weigh, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of pulp. Add a little gelatine dissolved in water, and let it boil steadily 20 minutes.

CRAB APPLE AND PLUM MARMALADE.

Cook the apples and plums separately, as for sauce, put through a sieve and measure each. Allow 3 pints of the apple pulp to 1 of plum; mix and weigh, adding 1 pound of sugar to each pound of pulp. Cook very slowly, stirring constantly to prevent scorching, until very thick. The thicker the marmalade is the nicer it is, and the flavor of the combined fruit is delicious.

CHERRY MARMALADE.

This is best made of fine Morella cherries. Wash the cherries and put them on to stew with 1 gill of water to 1 pound of fruit. When perfectly tender pass them through a colander to extract the stones. To 1 pound of the pulp add 1 pound of sugar, and when the sugar is dissolved put over the fire, and boil to a smooth paste.

GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE—I.

Stew the berries in a little water, press through a coarse sieve.

<page_number>140</page_number>
**FRUIT.**

return to the kettle, and add three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of the pulped gooseberry; boil three-quarters of an hour, stirring constantly; pour in jars or bowls, and cover as directed for currant jam. It will cook in the oven with less danger of scorching, and will not need as much care as if on the stove. The doors should be partly open.

**GOOSEBERRY MARMALADE—2.**

Top and tail the fruit, bruise it and cook till soft, stirring constantly. Rub through a sieve, and add to the pulp 4½ pounds of sugar to 6 pounds of the original weight of the fruit. Add the sugar gradually, and boil until firm.

**GRAPE MARMALADE.**

This is made of ripe or green grapes. After picking them from the stems and rinsing well, stew gently in a porcelain or granite kettle, for 10 minutes, in just enough water to keep them from sticking; run them through a sieve or fine colander to remove the skins and seeds. To each pint of sifted pulp and juice, add three-fourths of a pint of sugar, and boil until of the consistency desired; a large quantity will need to boil at least 2 hours.

**ORANGE MARMALADE.**

8 oranges,
5 lemons,
Slice the fruit, take out the seeds, add water and let stand 36 hours; then boil hard for 2 hours; add the sugar and boil slowly 1 hour or until it jellies.

**ORANGE MARMALADE, SCOTCH WAY.**

Slice the oranges very thin, taking out the seeds. To each pound of fruit, add 2 pints water. Let this stand 24 hours; then boil until the chips are tender. Next day, weigh it, and to each pound add 1½ pounds of lump sugar. Boil the whole until the syrup jellies, and the chips are clear. This will be in an hour. One dozen oranges makes about twenty pound pots of marmalade.

**PEACH MARMALADE—I.**

Take very ripe peaches, mash fine, put in a porcelain kettle until quite warm, strain through a colander, weigh, put back in the kettle, and allow three-fourths of a pound sugar to each pound

8 oranges,
4 quarts water,
8 pounds sugar.

**FRUIT.** 141

fruit. Stir well until the sugar is melted, boil fast 20 minutes, and put in small bowls. When cold, seal the same as jelly.

PEACH MARMALADE—2.

Choose ripe, well-flavored fruit. It is wise to make preserves at the same time, reserving for marmalade those that are soft. Boil the pits in the water with which the syrup is to be made. Pare and quarter the peaches and boil 30 minutes before adding sugar, stirring almost constantly from the time the peaches begin to cook; add sugar in the proportion of three-fourths of a pound to 1 pound fruit, continue to boil and stir for an hour longer, and put up in jars, pressing paper over them as directed for jellies.

PINEAPPLE MARMALADE.

Prepare as for preserving, and continue cooking the pineapple pulp for half an hour, then strain it through a colander. Return to the fire and boil, stirring continually till it curls before the finger, which is pushed through a little taken out to cool. Or, peel the pineapples and grate them, saving all the juice. The pulp and juice should then be weighed, and 1 pound of sugar added to every pound of pineapple. When the marmalade has boiled half an hour, test it by pushing the finger through a little which has been taken out to cool. If it is not done cook it longer.

PLUM MARMALADE.

Wash the fruit, and stew it with enough water to keep from scorching. Mash, and strain through a colander. To 1 pint of pulp add 1 pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, boil it till it is a smooth mass. Or, use plums left after straining off the juice for jelly, and sift to remove stones and skins; to 1 pint of pulp add one-half pound of sugar, and boil slowly, stirring well to prevent burning, until smooth and thick.

QUINCE MARMALADE.

Take quinces after making jelly, boil till soft, put through a colander, and to 1 pound of pulp add 1 pound of sugar. Boil till of the consistency desired. Canned or preserved quinces may also be used for marmalade by chopping fine, adding sugar if needed, and cooking till firm.

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FRUIT.

**JELLIES.**

Jellies should be made from the best fruit, with granulated sugar, and cooked in a porcelain or granite kettle. Be careful to choose fruit that is barely ripe, otherwise the juice will not jelly well, and will have a tendency to liquefy. Place the fruit in the kettle with just enough water to keep from burning, stir often, and let remain on the fire until thoroughly scalded; a better bat-slower method is to place it in a stone jar set within a kettle of tepid water, cook until the fruit is well softened, stirring frequently, and then strain a small quantity at a time through a strong, coarse flannel or cotton bag wrung out of hot water, after which let it drain, and squeeze it with the hands as it cools, or strain through another bag to make it very clear. The larger fruits, such as apples and quinces, should be cut in pieces, cores removed if at all defective, water added to just cover them, boiled gently until tender, turned into a bag and placed to drain for three or four hours, or over night. As a general rule, allow equal measures of juice and sugar. Boil juice ten minutes from the first moment of boiling, skim, add sugar, and boil ten minutes longer; or spread the sugar in a large earthen bowl, set in the oven, stir to prevent burning, boil the juice ten minutes, skim if needed, add the hot sugar, let boil up once, and pour into jelly glasses immediately, as a thin skin forms over the surface which keeps out the air. To test jelly, drop a little in a glass of very cold water, and if it immediately falls to the bottom it is done; or drop in a saucer, and set on ice or in a cool place; if it does not spread, but remains rounded, it is finished. Set the glasses on a wet cloth and the boiling liquid can be poured into them without danger of breaking; or, let the liquid run into them over a silver spoon standing in the jar or glass. When ready to put away, cover with pieces of writing or tissue paper, cut to fit, and pressed closely over the jelly; put on a cover of thicker paper, brushed over on the inside with the unbeaten white of an egg, and turned down on the outside of the glass. Keep in a dry, cool, and dark place. Jelly needs more attention in damp, rainy seasons than in others.

APPLE JELLY.
Wash, quarter, and core tart juicy apples, and to 8 quarts quar-

FRUIT.
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tered apples add 3 quarts water. Let them boil slowly until a mush, renewing the water as it boils away so that the dish is as full when the apples are done as it was at first. Strain through flannel, allowing it to drain thoroughly, but do not squeeze it. Add 1 pint of sugar to 1 pint of juice, and boil 20 minutes, skimming it well.

CRAB APPLE JELLY.

Wash and quarter large Siberian crabs, but do not core them, cover to the depth of 1 or 2 inches with cold water, and cook to a mush; pour into a coarse cotton bag or strainer, and extract all the juice. Take a piece of cheese cloth or crinoline, wring out of water, spread it over a colander placed on a crock, and pour in the juice, allowing plenty of time to run through; repeat this process, rinsing the cloth frequently. Allow the strained juice of 4 lemons to 1 peck of apples, and three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Boil the juice from 10 to 20 minutes; while boiling sift in the sugar slowly, stirring constantly, and boil 5 minutes longer. This is generally sufficient, but it is always safer to ascertain whether it will jelly.

CRAB APPLE JELLY AND MARMALADE.

Have good, sound crab apples, not too ripe, cut out all defective portions, wash, and to 8 quarts apples add 3 quarts water; boil slowly 1 hour, or till the fruit is quite soft, renewing the water that the apples may be covered when cooked. Strain through a jelly bag, but do not press with the hands, as only the clear juice is used for the jelly, and let it boil 10 or 15 minutes; then add the sugar, which has been heated in the oven, allowing 1 pint of sugar to each pint of fruit, and boil 5 minutes longer. Or, press the pulp through a sieve to take out the cores and skins. To each pint of pulp add 1 pint of sugar, and cook till of the consistency desired.

BLACKBERRY JELLY—1.

Squeeze the juice from the berries and strain it; add an equal quantity of sugar, and boil hard 25 minutes, then pour into moulds.

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**FRUIT.**

BLACKBERRY JELLY—2.
4 pints blackberry juice,
½ box gelatine,
3 pints sugar.
Water to dissolve gelatine.

Dissolve the gelatine in the water, stir it into the juice, to which the sugar has been added, and boil 15 minutes.

**CALF'S FEET JELLY.**
2 calf's feet,
2 quarts water,
½ pound loaf sugar,
6 lemons,
4 eggs, whites and shells.

Cut the feet in small pieces, after they have been well cleaned and the hair taken off. Stew very gently in the water, until it is reduced to 1 quart. When cold, take off the fat, and remove the jelly from the sediment. Put it into a saucepan with the sugar, the lemons sliced, with the peel rubbed on the sugar, the whites of the eggs well beaten, and the shells broken. Set over the fire, but do not stir after it begins to warm. Let it boil 15 minutes after it comes to a head, then cover close, let stand half an hour, and pour it through a jelly bag until clear. Add more lemons or oranges to suit the taste.

CHERRY JELLY.
Look over and put sour, perfect, and juicy cherries. While heating, mash them, strain through a jelly bag, measure juice, and add 1 pint of sugar to every pint of juice. Simmer slowly until a scum rises ; skim, and boil 15 minutes. Dip into tumblers. Next day cover with white paper and fasten the edges with white of egg.

COFFEE JELLY.
½ box Cox's gelatine,
1 quart strong black coffee,
½ cup cold water,
Sugar.

Soak the gelatine half an hour in the cold water. Heat the coffee to boiling point, sweeten to taste, add dissolved gelatine, stir well, strain into a mould rinsed with cold water just before using, set on ice or in a very cool place, and serve with cream or whipped cream. This jelly is very pretty, formed in a circular mould with a tube in the center; when turned out fill the space in the center with whipped cream.

CRANBERRY JELLY.
Prepare juice as in general directions, add 1 pound sugar to every pint, boil and skim, and test; rinse the glasses in cold water

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before pouring in the jelly. The pulp may be sweetened and used for sauce. Or, wash and boil sound berries to a pulp, with just enough water to prevent their burning. Pass them through a colander or a fruit strainer to remove the skins. Add an equal quantity of graduated sugar to the juice, and boil firm. Mould in individual dishes or in a large mould, after dipping in very cold water.

**CURRANT JELLY.**

Put the fruit into a stone jar, and set it in a kettle of tepid water over the fire. Heat gradually and let boil, closely covered, until the skins break. Pour the whole into a clean, stout muslin bag, and let it drip into a large earthen bowl or stone jar several hours or over night. It is best not to squeeze it, as it will not be so clear. To each pint of juice, allow 1 pound of sugar. Put the juice on to heat slowly, and let it boil 20 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the sugar in the oven, and put it into the boiling juice, where it will melt very quickly. Let the jelly just come to a boil and remove at once from the fire. Set the jelly glasses on a wet towel folded in 4 thicknesses, and fill with the liquid. If it does not seem firm enough when cool, set it in the sun. Boiling jelly darkens it. Other small fruit jellies are made in the same way. Strawberry jelly is improved by lemon juice. Cover closely and keep in a cool, dark place.

**CURRANT JELLY WITHOUT COOKING.**

Pick from stems and wash, being very careful that no water is left on them. Press out the juice and strain it. To every pint allow 1 pound fine white sugar; stir well together until the sugar is dissolved, pour in cans, seal and set them in the hot sun for 2 or 3 days. Or, prepare the juice, and set it in a cool place in the cellar for 24 hours. The froth that will cover the surface at the end of that time must be removed, and the juice strained through a jelly bag, then weighed, and an equal weight of powdered sugar added. Stir constantly till the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour into jars, and cover tightly. A transparent jelly of fine flavor, which will keep well, will be found at the end of 24 hours.

**ECONOMICAL JELLY.**

Cook a gallon jar of sound, clean apple parings in enough water

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**FRUIT.**

to make 6 teacups of juice when the parings are soft. Strain the juice, bring it to a boil and skim it; then add 3 cups sugar, and boil the jelly till it is of the proper consistency.

**ELDERBERRY AND GRAPE JELLY.**
4 pounds ripe elderberries,
Sugar,
4 pounds green or partially ripe grapes.
Mash the fruit and put it into a porcelain kettle, add one-half cup water, and boil until soft. Strain through a jelly bag, measure the juice, return it to the fire and boil 30 minutes; add an equal quantity of sugar, boil 5 or 10 minutes longer, pour into glasses, and seal when cool.

**FOUR-FRUIT JELLY.**
Take equal quantities of strawberries, raspberries, currants, and red cherries, stoned, adding the juice that escaped in stoning. Mix the fruit together, put it into a linen bag, and squeeze thoroughly; when it has ceased to drip, measure, and to 1 pint of juice allow 1 pound and 2 ounces of sugar. Mix the juice and sugar together; put into a preserving kettle, and boil half an hour, skimming frequently. Try the jelly by holding a spoonful in the open air; if it congeals readily it is sufficiently done.

**GOOSEBERRY JELLY.**
4 pounds curvy gooseberries,
Sugar,
\(\frac{1}{2}\) box gelatine.
2 quarts water.
Cook the gooseberries in the water, strain through a jelly bag, allow 1 pint sugar to each pint of juice, add the sugar, and gelatine dissolved in water, and boil all together 15 or 20 minutes.

**GRAPE JELLY.**
This may be made from grapes in all degrees of ripeness, that from green grapes having a peculiarly delicate flavor and fine color. Stew as for marmalade, then pour off the juice, and strain through a flannel cloth, not squeezing or pressing it any; as particles of pulp give the jelly a cloudy appearance. To each pint of clear juice, add 1 pint of sugar, and boil 20 minutes. Set the glasses on a wet towel and fill with the jelly.

**FOX GRAPE JELLY.**
Take green fox grapes, wash, and put in a preserving kettle with just water enough to pulp them. When tender, mash and strain through a cloth. To each pint of the juice add 1 pound of sugar,

<img>A recipe for making grape jelly.</img>

**FRUITS**

<page_number>147</page_number>

and 1 teaspoon powdered gum arabic dissolved in warm water.
When the sugar has dissolved, stir it well, and place the kettle over the fire. Let it boil 15 or 20 minutes, and try it. Pour it into the glasses while warm, and let stand till next day before covering.

SPICED GRAPE JELLY.
<table>
<tr><td>1 quart grape juice,</td><td>2 tablespoons cinnamon,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1 quart sugar,</td><td>1 teaspoon cloves.</td></tr>
</table>
Crush the juice from half ripe grapes, and strain it. Use the ingredients in the above proportions, and cook hard 20 minutes; remove from the fire and pour into glasses.

LEMON JELLY.
<table>
<tr><td>½ box gelatine,</td><td>1 pint boiling water,</td></tr>
<tr><td>½ pint cold water,</td><td>½ cups sugar,</td></tr>
<tr><td>3 lemons, juice,</td><td></td></tr>
</table>
Soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 hour, add the boiling water, sugar, and juice of lemons; let stand on the stove till boiling, strain into moulds and set in a cool place till ready to serve. The addition of a few thin slices of lemon a few moments before straining improves the flavor.

ORANGE JELLY.
<table>
<tr><td>9 oranges, juice,</td><td>4 ounces gelatine,</td></tr>
<tr><td>3 lemons, juice,</td><td>1 pound sugar,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1 egg, white,</td><td>2 quarts water.</td></tr>
</table>
Soak the gelatine in 1 pint of the water, boil the rest with the sugar, skim well, add the dissolved gelatine, orange and lemon juice, and beaten egg; let come to a boil, skim, cook until it jellies, and pour into a mould.

PEACH JELLY.
Pare, pit and slice the peaches and place them in a jar. Crack one-third of the pits and add them to the peaches. Heat in a kettle of boiling water, stirring occasionally until the fruit is well broken. Strain, and to each pint of juice add the juice of 1 lemon, and measure again. Allow 1 pound sugar to each pint juice, heat it very hot, and add to the juice when it has boiled 20 minutes. Let it come to a boil again, and take from the fire at once. This is recommended for jelly cake.

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**FRUIT.**

**PINEAPPLE JELLY.**

$\frac{3}{4}$ box gelatine,
$\frac{1}{4}$ pint cold water,
1 can pineapple.

Soak the gelatine in the cold water 1 hour; add the boiling water, sugar, and the pineapple reduced to a pulp. Bring to a boil, strain into a mould, and set on ice to cool. Wrap a cloth dipped in hot water around the mould for a few moments, when ready for use, and it will slip out easily.

**PLUM JELLY AND MARMALADE.**

If the plums are wild, sprinkle with soda and pour hot water over them, let stand a few moments and stir them; take out, and put on to cook with water enough to cover them,—if the plums are very juicy less water will be required—boil till soft, strain through a jelly bag, but avoid squeezing. Measure, and boil 10 or 15 minutes; add sugar, allowing 1 pint of sugar to each pint of juice, and boil. Test by dropping a little in a saucer and setting it on ice. If the plums are the cultivated wild ones, it is not necessary to use soda. Press the pulp through a sieve to take out the pits and skins. Allow pint for pint, of sugar and pulp. Boil the latter half an hour, add the sugar, and boil 10 or 15 minutes longer. Half a pint of sugar to a pint of pulp makes a rich marmalade.

Plum-apple jelly may be made by preparing the juice of apples and plums as above; a nice proportion is 1 part plums to 2 parts apples; mix the juice and finish. A bushel of apples and 1 peck of plums make 40 pints of jelly, part crab apple alone and part mixed, and 16 quart jars of mixed marmalade. In making either kind of jelly the fruit may be squeezed and the juice strained twice through $\xi^{\prime\prime}$ ; muslin or crinoline, and made into jelly. The pulp can not then be used for marmalade.

**QUINCE JELLY.**

Rub the quinces with a cloth until perfectly smooth, cut in small pieces, pack tight in a kettle, pour on cold water until level with the fruit, and boil until very soft; make a three-cornered flannel bag, pour in the fruit and drain, occasionally pressing on the top and sides to make the juice run more freely, taking care not to press hard enough to expel the pulp. There is not much need of

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pressing a bag made in this shape, as the weight of the fruit in the larger part causes the juice to flow freely at the point. To 1 pint of juice add 1 pint of sugar, and boil until it jellies; pour into tumblers, or bowls, and finish according to general directions. If quinces are scarce, the parings and cores of quinces with good, tart apples, boiled and strained as above, make excellent jelly, and the quinces may be saved for preserves.

**RASPBERRY AND CURRANT JELLY.**

If currants are used with red raspberries in equal parts, the jelly will be firmer and the flavor will be very delicate. Look the fruit over carefully, wash and mash the currants, and place together in an oven that is hot enough to extract the juice. Stir well, strain without squeezing through a jelly bag. Measure and set the juice on to boil. Put the sugar in the oven in shallow pans to heat, allowing equal measure of juice and sugar. When the juice has boiled 20 minutes, add the sugar, and stir rapidly till thoroughly dissolved; let it come to a boil, take from the fire at once, and pour into jelly glasses

**RHUBARB JELLY.**

Wash the stalks well, cut into small pieces, put them into a preserving kettle with water to cover them, and boil to a soft pulp; strain through a jelly bag. To each pint of juice add a pound of sugar; boil, skim, and when it jellies pour into jars. After the juice has been prepared, the juice of 1 lemon may be added to each 3 pints of rhubarb juice, and half the rind boiled in it for a few moments.

**RHUBARB AND APPLE JELLY.**

Cut the rhubarb in small pieces and cook over a slow fire, without adding any water; pare, quarter and cook good, sour apples in a very little water; strain the juice from both, measure, and boil 20 minutes. Heat the sugar in the oven, allowing three-fourths of a pint to each pint of juice; add it to the juice, and boil 10 or 15 minutes longer. Pour into glasses, and set it in the sun for a few hours.

**STRAWBERRY JELLY.**

Prepare the berries, put into a jar, and set into a kettle containing lukewarm water. Cover and boil till the juice is expressed.

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FRUIT.

Drain through a bag, measure, and boil; allow 1 pound of sugar to 1 pint of juice, and heat the sugar in the oven. When the juice has boiled 20 minutes, add the hot sugar, boil together thoroughly, and pour into glasses.

TOMATO JELLY.
Break ripe tomatoes into pieces and stew them in as little water as will keep them from burning. Pour into a jelly bag, and when the juice has run through add 1 pound of sugar to each pound of the juice. Return to the stove and boil until it jellies. Serve with roast meat.

PRESERVES.
Until the modern method of canning was introduced, all fruit kept for instant use was prepared with an equal weight of sugar, and was called preserves. Genuine preserves are made by the old rule, a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Make a hot syrup by adding a little water to the sugar, and letting it boil. If necessary to clarify it, add just before it boils the white of an egg beaten lightly with two tablespoons of water; as it begins to boil, skim carefully and repeat the process until no more scum arises add the fruit and cook slowly until tender. Peaches, pears, and quinces should be pared and halved. Small fruits should be put directly into the boiling syrup, and when cooked, carefully skimmed out, to avoid breaking. Boil down the syrup, if there is a larger quantity than needed, and pour over the fruit. Let the preserving kettle be of porcelain or granite ware, use granulated sugar, and select perfect fruit, fresh, and just reaching a ripe condition. Cover the fruit when cooked, but do not set away until cold. When preserves are candied, set the jar in a kettle of cold water, and boil for an hour; or, empty them into a crock kept for that purpose, set into the oven and boil a few minutes, watching carefully to prevent burning. When specks of mould appear, take off carefully, and seal the preserves.

APPLE PRESERVE.
Take three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of apples; make a syrup of the sugar and water, skim, add a few apples at a time, cook until they are transparent, and place in a jar. When

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all are done, boil the syrup until thick, pour boiling hot over the apples, and cover closely. Well-flavored fruit, not easily broken in cooking, should be used. Bruised ginger-root or a sliced lemon may be added to the boiling syrup.

CHERRY PRESERVE—1.
Weigh the stoned cherries, and allow 10 pounds sugar to 12 pounds fruit. Add the sugar to the fruit, and let stand over night. Then drain off the juice, boil it till it begins to thicken, add the cherries, and cook till thick. Keep the preserve in stone jars covered with buttered paper, and tie two layers of paper over them.

CHERRY PRESERVE—2.
Choose sour ones,—the early Richmond is good—stone them, and allow an amount of sugar equal to the fruit; take half the sugar, sprinkle over the fruit, let stand 1 hour, pour into a preserving kettle, boil slowly 10 minutes, skim out the cherries, add the rest of the sugar to the syrup, boil, skim, and pour over the cherries; the next day drain off the syrup, boil, skim if neces sary, add the cherries, boil 20 minutes, and seal up in small jars.

CITRON PRESERVE.
Pare, seed, cut in thin slices 2 inches long, weigh, and put in a preserving kettle with water to cover; boil 1 hour, take out the melon, and to the water add 1 pound of sugar to 1 pound of melon ; boil until thick, replace the melon, with 2 sliced lemons to each pound of fruit; boil 20 minutes, take out, boil the syrup until very thick, and pour it over the fruit.

PREERVED CITRON, ORANGE AND LEMON PEEL.
Soak in salt and water over night, freshen in 3 waters and boil till tender. Make a syrup of 1 pint of water to 1 pound of sugar, and boil the peel in it half an hour. It may be cut in fine strips before cooking.

CANDIED CITRON PEEL.
Harden them in brine 1 week. Freshen 1 week, changing the water every day. Cut in quarters and scrape out the pulp. Peel, and boil in alum water till tender. Freshen over night. Allow half a pound of sugar to 1 pound of rind; cook till soft, and dry in the sun, letting it absorb all the syrup. The syrup may be flavored with lemon.

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**FRUIT.**

**ELDERBERRY PRESERVE.**

Use in the proportions of 1 pound berries, 1 pound sugar, and 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. Make a syrup, using the lemon, and as little water as possible. Skim if necessary, add the berries and cook 20 minutes. Strain out the berries into jars or glasses, boil the syrup to a jelly and pour over the fruit as much as the jar will hold. In 24 hours cover. If an open-mouthed receptacle, without a cover, is used, lay on a piece of thin paper and tie over the jar a cloth or thick paper cover.

**CITRON AND QUINCE PRESERVES.**

Pare and cut the citron into small pieces, boil hard in alum water half an hour, drain, and boil in fresh water till tender. Pare and core the quinces, and cut them into 8 pieces. Boil the parings and cores ½ half hours in water sufficient to cover them ; strain off the liquid and cook the prepared quinces in it till nearly tender, add the citron, and to each pound of fruit add three-fourths pound of sugar. Boil till clear.

**FIG PRESERVE.**

Gather the fruit when fully ripe, but not cracked open ; place in a perforated tin bucket or wire basket, and dip for a moment into a deep kettle of hot and moderately strong lye or let them lie 1 hour in lime water, and afterwards drain ; make a syrup in the proportion of 1 pound of sugar to 1 of fruit, and when the figs are drained, add them to the syrup and cook well, remove, boil down the syrup leaving only enough to cover the fruit. Boil all together 1 minute, and seal while hot in glass or porcelain jars.

**GRAPE PRESERVE.**

Pick the grapes from the stems, pop the pulps from the skins, doing 2 at a time, 1 in each hand between the thumb and forefinger. Put the pulp in a porcelain kettle and stew gently until the seeds are loosened ; then strain and rub it through a sieve, weigh it with the skins, and to every pound allow 1 pound of sugar. Put the skins and juice in a kettle, cover closely, and cook slowly until the skins are tender; while still boiling add the sugar and move the kettle back, as it must not boil again ; keep very hot for 15 minutes; then, if the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, pour the fruit into cans, and screw down the covers as soon as possible.

**FRUITS**

<page_number>153</page_number>

**PRESERVED GRAPES IN BUNCHES.**

Take out the seeds with a pin, breaking the bunches as little as possible ; boil some clarified sugar until nearly ready to " candy "; add grapes to cover the bottom of the pan, without laying them on each other, and boil 5 minutes to extract the juice; lay them in an earthen pan and pour the syrup over them; cover with paper, and the next day boil the syrup for 5 minutes, skimming it well; put in the grapes, let them boil 1 minute and pour them into pots.

**ORANGE PRESERVE.**

Allow equal weights of fruit and sugar. Pare one-half the oranges and cut the peel into shreds. Grate the yellow rind from the remaining oranges, remove the white inner skin and throw it away. Separate all the oranges into quarters, remove seeds, cut or chop into small pieces, drain off all the juice that leaves the fruit without pressing it, and pour it over the sugar. Unless the oranges are very juicy, a little water will be needed for the syrup. Place it over the fire, boil for 5 or 6 minutes, skim, add the shredded peel and cook 10 minutes, then the grated peel and chopped pulp, and boil 20 minutes. Put into jars and seal when cold.

**PEACH PRESERVE.**

Take any fine peaches that do not mash readily in cooking, pare carefully and remove the pits; take sugar equal in weight to the fruit, or if to be sealed, three-fourths of a pound of sugar to 1 pound of fruit, and a half pint of water to each pound of sugar. Boil pits in the water, adding more as it evaporates, to keep the proportion good; remove the pits, add the sugar, clarify, and when the scum ceases to rise, add the fruit, a small quantity at a time; cook slowly about 10 minutes, skim out into a jar, add more, and repeat until all are done, and then pour the boiling syrup over all. The next day drain off and boil the syrup a few minutes, and pour back, repeating daily until the fruit looks clear. Two or three times is generally sufficient. The last time put up the preserves in small jars, and secure with paper as directed for jellies. If to be sealed in cans, the first boiling is sufficient, after which put into cans and seal immediately. The latter plan is preferable, as it takes less trouble and less sugar, while the natural flavor of the fruit is better retained. Many think peach preserves much nicer if made

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**FRUIT.**

with maple sugar. Clingstone peaches are preserved in the same way whole, except that they must be put on in clear water and boiled whole until so tender that they may be pierced with a silver fork before adding the sugar.

**PEAR PRESERVE.**

Pare, cut in halves, core and weigh ; if hard, boil in water until tender, and use it for the syrup ; allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit, boil a few moments, skim, and cool ; when lukewarm add the pears, and boil gently until the syrup has penetrated them and they look clear ; some of the pieces will cook before the rest, and must be removed ; when done, take out, boil down the syrup a little and pour over them ; a few cloves stuck here and there in the pears add a pleasant flavor. Put in jars with glass or tin tops, and seal with putty, or plaster of Paris. A very nice preserve is made of pears and quinces, in the proportion of one-third quince to two-thirds pear.

**PINEAPPLE PRESERVE.**

The most delicious way of preserving a pineapple is in its own juice without using one drop of water to make the syrup. Peel carefully the requisite number, weigh them, and allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to every pound of pineapple. Put the pineapples in a huge earthen bowl or in a stone crock, and scatter the sugar over them. Cover, and let them stand for 24 hours. A clear juice will nearly cover them then. Now take each pineapple and tear the pulp off the core, using a silver fork. Drain off the juice from the pulp and sugar into a preserving kettle. Let it boil 5 minutes, then skim, and strain it through a fine strainer over the pineapple pulp. Let the pulp boil up in the syrup once, then can it immediately, as longer boiling darkens the preserves.

**PLUM PRESERVE—1.**

For each pound of fruit allow three-fourths pound of sugar, put them into a stone jar or pan in alternate layers and set in a moderately warm oven for several hours, or all night if prepared at tea time. Drain the juice from the plums, boil and skim it. Remove the plums carefully to jars or cans ; pour over them the boiling hot syrup and seal at once. It is well to prick the plums with a coarse needle after washing.

FRUIT.
<page_number>155</page_number>

PLUM PRESERVE—2.

Allow equal weights of plums and sugar. Add 1 pint of water to 2 pounds of sugar, boil the syrup, skim it, and drop in the plums a few at a time, after having pricked them with a coarse needle. Boil gently 20 minutes, remove the plums with a skimmer, put in jars, cover with the syrup and when cold screw on the tops, or cover with paper.

PLUM SWEETMEATS.

Select ripe damson plums, peel, stone, and halve them ; let them cook in their own juice until sufficiently soft to rub them through a sieve. Make sweet with sugar; if spice is desired add cinnamon, return to the fire, cook until tender, fill the jars and seal immediately.

QUINCE AND APPLE PRESERVE.

Take equal weights of quinces and sugar, pare, core, leave whole or cut in pieces, boil till tender in water enough to cover, take out carefully, lay on a platter, add the sugar to the water, put in the fruit and boil slowly till clear, place in jars and pour the syrup over them. To increase the quantity without adding sugar, take one-half or two-thirds in weight as many fair sweet apples as there are quinces, pare, quarter, and core; after removing the quinces, put the apples into the syrup, and boil till red and clear, and tender; place the quinces and apples in a jar in alternate layers, and cover with syrup. For the use of parings and cores, see recipe for Quince Jelly. Apples alone may be preserved in the same way.

QUINCE PRESERVE.

Pare and core quinces, cut in quarters or eighths, measure, and to each quart add 2 oranges, or 1 lemon, sliced thin. Mix together and steam until tender, but avoid breaking. Boil the skins and cores slowly for 2 hours in water enough to cover them. When the water thickens, strain, and add sugar, allowing 1 pound to each pound of fruit. Make a syrup, add the fruit, and simmer 1 hour over a slow fire. Put into cans and seal.

RHUBARB PRESERVE.

Peel and slice the rhubarb and weigh it. Put it in a porcelain kettle and place it where it will heat very gradually until the juice flows freely. No water should be added. Then bring forward on

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FRUIT.

the stove and stew gently half an hour. Dip out half the juice, and keep it warm. Add to the cooked fruit half a pound of sugar to each pound of rhubarb, with 1 teaspoon cloves and 2 teaspoons cinnamon. Stir well, and cook till almost as thick as jam. Should it be too thick, reduce with a little of the warm juice. Pour into glass jars, screw on the tops closely, and when cool wrap in thick paper and keep in a cool, dry place.
STRAWBERRY PRESERVE.

Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of strawberries. Put fruit and sugar in the preserving kettle in alternate layers. After sufficient juice settles to cook them, set it on the stove, heat, and boil slowly 10 minutes. Fill stone or glass jars and seal.

TOMATO PRESERVE.

Scald and peel carefully, small, perfectly formed tomatoes, not too ripe,—the yellow, pear-shaped ones are best—prick with a needle to prevent bursting, add an equal amount of sugar by weight, let them stand all night, then pour the juice into a preserving kettle, and boil until it is a thick syrup, clarifying with the white of an egg; add tomatoes, and boil carefully until they look transparent. A piece or two of ginger-root, or 1 lemon to a pound of fruit, sliced thin and cooked with the fruit, may be added.

UNIQUE PRESERVE.

Gather young cucumbers, 4 inches in length, and lay in strong brine one week; wash, and soak them a day and night in clear water, changing 4 times; line a bell-metal kettle with vine leaves, and lay in the cucumbers with a little alum scattered among them; fill up with clear water and cover with vine leaves, then with a close lid, and green as for pickles. Do not boil them. When well greened, drop into ice-water; when perfectly cold, wipe, and with a small knife slant down one side; dig out the seeds and stuff with a mixture of chopped citron and seedless raisins. Sew up the incisions with a fine thread, weigh them, and make a syrup, allowing 1 pound of sugar for every pound of cucumbers, and a pint of water; heat to a lively boil, skim and drop in the cucumbers; simmer half an hour; take out and spread on a dish in the sun, boil down the syrup with a few slices of ginger-root; when thick

**FRUIT SAUCE.** <page_number>157</page_number>

put in the cucumbers again; simmer 5 minutes, and put in glass jars, tying them up when cold.

**WATERMELON PRESERVE.**

Pare off the outside green rind, cut in pieces 2 inches long, weigh, throw into cold water, skim out, add 1 heaping teaspoon each of salt and pulverized alum to 2 gallons of rinds, let stand until the salt and alum dissolve, fill the kettle with cold water, and place on top of the stove, where it will slowly come to the boiling point, covering with a large plate to keep under the rinds; boil until they can be easily pierced with a fork, drain them from the water, and put into a syrup previously prepared as follows : Bruise and tie in a muslin bag 4 ounces ginger-root, and boil in 2 or 3 pints of water until it is strongly flavored. At the same time boil in a little water until tender, in another pan, 3 or 4 sliced lemons ; allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of rind, dissolve the sugar in the water in which lemons and ginger have been boiled, having first strained it, adding more hot water if necessary; add the rinds and slices of lemon to this and boil slowly half to three-quarters of an hour. Citrons may be prepared in the same way, by paring, coring and slicing, or cutting into fanciful shapes with tin cutters made for the purpose.

**FRUIT SAUCES.**

These are made from fresh or dried fruits, and are delicious or abominable, according to the way in which they are prepared.

The most desirable utensils for the slow, steadily cooking necessary to produce the best results, are pipkins of pottery, or stoneware. Handled carefully they will last a long time. The best of them are made from the same material used for fire brick, and will last as long as a porcelain-lined kettle. Pipkins of soft, unglazed earthenware are much less expensive than the hard ones, but they cannot be placed on the hottest part of the stove without danger of cracking. They can be used to cook stewed fruits in the oven for a long time, and a two-quart pipkin costs but ten cents. The unglazed pipkin ordinarily comes with covers, but a plate or tin cover must be used with the other kind.

Apples, of any tart variety, and pears, are finer flavored, and

<page_number>158</page_number>
**FRUIT SAUCE.**

keep better form when cooked in a pipkin in an oven than in any other way. The apples, if large, should be quartered as well as pared, and to a two-quart pipkin nearly full add one cup of sugar, and one cup of water. Cover, and cook slowly for an hour. Test with a straw, and if tender enough to be pierced, and clear, they are done, and their shape should be perfect. If pears are very sweet, add less sugar; they may need cooking longer than apples.

Since canned fruit has become so generally used, it is to be regretted that much less attention has been paid to drying fruit, since the flavor of many fruits is better preserved by drying than in any other way. All fruit for drying must be perfect, of the best quality, and thoroughly ripe. When dry, put up in jars and cover closely, or in paper bags. Paper sacks, or a barrel or box lined with paper, are secure against moths. The secret of keeping dried fruit is to exclude the light, and to keep in a dry and cool place.

To stew dried fruits: Wash the fruit carefully, put in a pipkin, or covered earthenware dish, and barely cover with cold water. Let the fruit soak in a cool place several hours, or over night. In the morning set it on the stove, and let it come slowly to the boiling point. When this is reached put the pipkin where the fruit will merely simmer three or four hours. It must be covered all the time. An hour before it is taken up, add to about half a pound of fruit a cup of sugar. If there is too much liquid, set the jar where the heat will be sufficient to slowly boil down the juice to the desired quantity, or till its contents become a rich marmalade. If properly cooked no flavoring is needed.

Prunes are delicious cooked in the foregoing fashion, and the little acid prunella is exceedingly good. Prunellas, however, require much more sugar than prunes. There is an acid flavor about them which is delicious in the spring, when the appetite flags and sweet things are cloying to the taste.

**APPLE SAUCE—1.**

Pare, core and cut in quarters apples that do not come to pieces easily, and put on to stew in cold water with plenty of sugar. Cover close, and stew 1 hour or more. The addition of the sugar

**FRUIT SAUCE.** 159

at first preserves the pieces whole. If preferred soft, put through a sieve, and add the sugar.

Or, make a rich syrup, and when it boils drop in the halves of firm, round apples sufficient to cover the bottom of the pan. Stew slowly, and when the pieces are tender, remove to a dish, adding fresh pieces if any are left. If much syrup remains boil down to the amount needed, pour over the apples, and serve cold.

APPLE SAUCE—2.

Pare, core and quarter tart apples, and fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of apples and sugar; pour on a little water, cover closely, and cook them in the oven or over a slow fire. Or, pare, core and slice 4 large, tart apples, cook with a very little water, and when tender add 1 cup of sugar, and a little extract of winter-green.

DRIED-APPLE SAUCE—I.

Put in a preserving kettle 1 quart of washed dried apples, with twice their bulk of water. Soak them 10 or 12 hours, add sugar to taste, and stew soft. Flavor with orange, lemon, or spices.

DRIED-APPLE SAUCE—2.

Look over, wash thoroughly in clean, warm water; drain, cover with cold soft water, place on the back of the stove, cook slowly 4 or 5 hours, mash fine, sift, sweeten, and season with cinnamon. Never add sugar until a short time before removing from the stove, otherwise the fruit will be toughened and hardened. Follow the same directions in preparing dried peaches, only do not mash, or season highly. Cook in a porcelain kettle without stirring. A few raisins improve both apple and peach sauce.

CRANBERRY SAUCE.

Pick over and wash the cranberries. Add half a cup of water to 1 quart of berries. Cover, and cook over a slow fire. Stir frequently, and mash the fruit. When all are mashed, and the pulp smooth, take from the fire and add sugar to taste. Dissolve the sugar and pour into a mould wet with cold water. Or, put through a coarse sieve before filling the mould.

GREEN Currant SAUCE.

Stem them carefully, wash, and cook in a very little water, as they are quite juicy. When they begin to boil, add sugar generously, and cook 5 minutes longer. Serve cold.

<page_number>160</page_number>
FRUIT.
MISCELLANEOUS.
AMBROSIA.

6 sweet oranges, 1 grated pineapple,
Powdered sugar, 1 grated coconutan.
Peel, slice and seed the oranges, taking out as much of the core as possible, pare and remove the eyes from the pineapple before grating, and fill a dish with alternated layers of orange, pineapple and coconutan, sprinkling sugar over each. Or, use 6 oranges, 6 lemons and 2 cocoonans, or only oranges and cocoonans.
BAKED APPLES—1.
Cut out the blossom and stem ends of tart apples, fill with sugar, bake till soft, and serve warm or cold. Or, pare and core tart apples; lay them in an earthen dish with a very little water. Fill the cavity of each apple with sugar, a bit of butter, a slice of lemon or a sprinkling of cinnamon. Cover and bake slowly 1 hour. Serve with plain or whipped cream. Use 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 cup water, to 3 pints apples. If sweet apples are used, bake twice as long, and omit the cinnamon, using half the quantity of sugar.
BAKED APPLES—2.
Wash and prick the skins of nice, sweet apples. Place in a pan with a very little water. Bake 2 hours in a moderate oven, bast- ing with the juice 2 or 3 times. Sprinkle with a little sugar 15 minutes before taking from the oven. Let them remain covered until cold, and serve with cream.
BAKED APPLES, PEACHES OR PEARs.
Wipe the fruit, and put into a jar with sugar between the layers, covering them with cold water. Bake 3 or 4 hours closely cov- ered in a slow oven. Add half the quantity of water and sugar to sweet apples. If the pears are large bake 5 or 6 hours, and they may be flavored with stick cinnamon, or lemons cut in slices, or both. Pare peaches before baking them.
APPLE COMPOTE—1.
Select apples that will cook well without breaking; pare, core, and cook till three-fourths done in a syrup made with 1 pound sugar and 1 pint water. Skim out of the syrup and put in a hot oven for a few minutes; boil the syrup while the apples are in the

<page_number>161</page_number>

**FRUIT.**

oven; then dip each apple in the syrup, place in a nice dish, and pour the syrup over them. Cover with a meringue and brown slightly. Or, serve cold, with cream or custard.

APPLE COMPOTE.—2.
1 pound pared and cored apples,
½ box gelatine,
¾ pound sugar,
Whipped cream.

Make a syrup of the sugar with enough water to dissolve it. When it comes to a boil put in the fruit and cook until clear but whole. Remove from the fire to a glass bowl. Have the gelatine ready, dissolved in half a cup of hot water, stir at once into the hot syrup, and strain it over the apples. When cold, heap whipped cream over it. Sliced lemons may be added to the syrup, and a slice of the lemon served on each apple.

FRIED APPLES.
Quarter and core apples without paring; heat the frying pan with butter in it and lay the apples in the pan, skin side down, sprinkle with a little sugar, and, when nearly done, turna and brown thoroughly. Or, cut in slices across the core, and fry like pancakes, turning when brown. Serve with sugar sprinkled over them.

ICED APPLES.
Pare and core 12 large apples, fill with sugar and a little butter and nutmeg; bake until nearly done, let cool, and remove to another plate, if it can be done without breaking them; if not, pour off the juice, cover them with icing, and brown lightly. Serve with cream.

JELLIED APPLES.
Pare, core and slice 8 sour apples, and put them in layers into an earthen baking dish, with brown sugar and cinnamon. Allow at least 1 large cup sugar and 4 tablespoons water to the apples. Cover with a buttered plate and bake very slowly 2 or 3 hours. Let it stand until cold. When turned out it should be a firm mass, with the red slices showing through the clear jelly.

FRIED BANANAS.
Peel and slice lengthwise, fry in butter, sprinkle with sugar, and serve. The bananas must be ripe, but firm, and the red variety is preferable.

<img>A woman holding a spoon with ice cream on top.</img>
# ICE CREAM AND ICES.

T HIS "perfection of summer refreshment" is peculiarly an American delicacy, though attainable in some form all over Europe.

The two divisions of ice cream are the American, or Philadelphian, and Neapolitan; the former is more of a cream, the latter partakes of the nature of a custard.

The essentials for making good ice cream are the best cream, ripe, juicy fruit, when fruit is used, and granulated sugar. What is called "double" cream, or that skimmed from milk after standing twenty hours, should be used, as it whips without any waste. Cream from milk standing one-half the time is called "single," and is preferable for coffee.

Milk is frequently used in cheaper or fancy creams with eggs, cornstarch, arrow-root or gelatine. A difference of opinion exists as to heating the cream, some claiming that the raw cream has a harsh taste, is more likely to turn, and does not freeze smoothly. Add the flavoring after the first freezing. As freezing increases the bulk of the composition, do not have the freezer more than three-quarters full.

When eggs are to be substituted for cream, increase the amount of sugar used, in the proportion of one-half cup to six eggs. Too much sugar hinders freezing. The eggs must be perfectly fresh or the cream is injured. Add a little salt or grated lemon peot to the milk to correct its flat taste. Never cook fruit flavors with cream. To avoid acidity or a fermented taste, use only perfect, ripe, fresh fruit. The genuine flavors, though expensive, are economical, as it requires very little to be effective.

General directions for freezing: Use the best freezer, and have all things in readiness. Allow ten pounds of ice and two quarts of rock salt to a gallon freezer. Put the ice in a coffee sack and

<page_number>162</page_number>

ICE CREAM. 163

pound very fine for the first freezing. Set the cylinder in the tub, and pour in the cream, which should be very cold. Cover, and turn the crank to see if it works right. Put in ice to the depth of three inches, then one inch of salt, and fill the tub with alternate layers, finishing with a layer of ice. Turn the crank slowly and steadily, but do not freeze the cream too fast. In twenty or thirty minutes uncrew the crank, wipe off the cover, and remove the dasher. Scrape down the cream from the sides with a broad knife, a wooden one is best, and beat hard several minutes. This makes the cream smooth. Replace the cover, plug the dasher hole, taking great care that no salt creeps in. Drain off the water and repack with coarser ice and salt. Cover with a thick piece of carpet and set away in a cool place. Or, pack in moulds, and place in pails filled with layers of salt and ice. Cover and set away. Wrap a hot cloth around the mould for a few moments and the cream will turn out readily. Should the ice in the tub melt rapidly while freezing, drain off the water, add more ice and salt, see that it is packed solidly, and continue the work of freezing. If any cream or ice is left in the freezer, pour it out into porcelain-lined pans, and keep in a cold place to use again.

Great care should be used in keeping the freezer sweet and clean.

ICE CREAM—1.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts cream,</td>
    <td>1 pound sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Flavoring.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

This is the regular proportion for pure ice cream, and all creams made on this basis, without milk or eggs, are called Philadelphia creams. It may be frozen without heating, or the cream may be heated in a double boiler. Sift in the sugar when the water boils. Cool and freeze, add the flavoring just before freezing and packing. In all the recipes, follow the general directions for freezing and packing, unless others are given.

ICE CREAM—2.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint cream,</td>
    <td>½ pound sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Flavoring.</td>
    <td></td>
  </tr>
</table>

Scald the milk, and add the sugar beaten with the eggs, or the yolks of eggs and 1 white. Beat thoroughly together, strain,

<img>A recipe for ice cream with instructions on how to make it.</img>

<page_number>164</page_number>
ICE CREAM.

add the cream, and cook until it thickens, stirring constantly.
Cool, flavor and freeze. Or, beat the yolks of 2 eggs and 1 table-
spoon cornstarch or arrow-root with the sugar, and add to the
milk. Strain and cook. When smoothly thickened, remove and
cool. Whip the whites, beat into the cream, and add to the com-
position, with the flavoring, when it is ready to freeze. This recipe
requires more flavoring than pure cream.

ICE CREAM—3.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>1 salt spoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart cream,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon flavoring,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups sugar,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Scald the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, flour, and 1
cup of sugar together till light, and then turn into the milk. Stir
constantly till thickened, and then occasionally. Cook 20 min-
utes. When cold add the second cup of sugar, the cream and the
flavoring, strain into the freezer and freeze.

ICE CREAM WITHOUT A FREEZER.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart milk,</td>
    <td>1½ pounds sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1½ quarts cream,</td>
    <td>8 eggs.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Make a custard of the above ingredients, according to directions
for Custard Ice Cream, adding the beaten whites of eggs, the
cream and vanilla just before freezing. Chill the mixture, pour
into a pail with a tightly-fitting cover, and place on a flat block of
ice 2 inches thick on the bottom of the packing pail or tub. Pack
in pounded ice and salt, ice 2 parts, salt 1 part. Beat the cream
in the freezer 5 minutes. Put on the top, cover with thick cloths
and turn steadily until the water begins to rise. Uncover, scrape
the cream thoroughly from the bottom and sides of the pail and
beat until the custard is a smooth, half-frozen paste.
Cover, drain off the brine, fill up the tub with ice and salt, and repeat the
former process. Continue in this way until the cream is frozen.
At the last opening see that the cream is higher in the center than
at the sides. Put on the cover, ice, salt, and an old thick blanket,
and leave it some hours, replenishing with ice and salt,
and draining off the water when necessary. All creams frozen in
this manner should be partly custard.

ICE CREAM. <page_number>165</page_number>

BANANA ICE CREAM.
3 quarts cream,
3 tablespoons gelatine,
Lemon juice.

Heat 1 quart of cream, add the sugar, and gelatine; stir till dissolved, and strain. When cool stir in the bananas, thoroughly mashed or chopped fine, and the lemon juice, then freeze. Or, substitute 1 quart of milk and 4 eggs for 1 quart of cream, cook the custard till it thickens and proceed as with full cream recipe.

BISQUE ICE CREAM.
3 quarts cream,
1 pound sugar,
4 lady fingers.

Roll very fine, or crush and sift through a sieve, the kissses, lady fingers and macaroons. Heat 1 quart of cream in a double boiler, then add the sugar, stirring until dissolved. Remove from the fire and cool. Add the rest of the cream, put into the freezer, and when nearly stiff, stir in the sifted cakes and vanilla. A richer coloring is given by adding 2 teaspoons caramel. Beat until smooth, and follow directions for freezing and packing. The cream must stand at least 2 hours before using. This makes one gallon of cream when frozen.

BOSTON BROWN-BREAD ICE CREAM.
3 quarts cream,
10 eggs,
\frac{1}{2} pound brown bread.

Roll and sift the dried toasted bread. Put 1 quart of cream into a custard-kettle, heat, and add the sugar and well-beaten eggs. Strain, and stir constantly until it thickens smoothly. Remove from the fire, add the remainder of the cream, cool and freeze. When nearly frozen beat in the powdered bread, and finish according to general directions. The eggs and one-half pound of sugar may be omitted. Biscuit Cream is made by substituting three-quarters of a pound of stale sponge cake for the bread.

CARAMEL ICE CREAM.

Make a foundation as for Ice Cream—3. Put 1 scant cup of sugar into a frying pan and stir over the fire till the sugar turns liquid and brown, add this to the hot custard, in place of 1 cup of sugar.

<page_number>166</page_number>
ICE CREAM.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM—1.
2 quarts cream,
1 pint milk,
Vanilla.

Use the unsweetened chocolate. Heat the milk and make a smooth paste with the chocolate. Add the sugar, mix thoroughly with the cream, flavor, and freeze according to directions. Or, scrape 2 ounces of Baker's chocolate, and cook till smooth and glossy with 2 tablespoons sugar and 2 of boiling water. Add this to the custard or cream while in the double boiler. When cold, add 1 tablespoon vanilla.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM—2.
1 quart rich cream,
1 pint new milk,
6 tablespoons grated chocolate.

Scald the milk, and add the sugar, the eggs well beaten, and the chocolate rubbed smooth in a little milk. Beat well, place over the fire and heat until it thickens a little, stirring constantly, strain, add a tablespoon thin, dissolved gelatine, and, when cold, place in the freezer ; when half frozen add the cream, well whipped, and finish.

To make a block of chocolate and vanilla : freeze the creams separately, and before packing fill a mould with two or three layers of cream according to taste. Pack the mould in ice and salt, and let it stand at least 2 hours.

COFFEE ICE CREAM—1.
2 quarts cream,
1 pound ground Java and Mocha coffee.

Put into a double boiler 1 quart of cream and the coffee. Let it stand 15 minutes in hot, not boiling water, strain and squeeze to obtain the strength, and stir in the sugar. When cold, add the rest of the cream and freeze.

COFFEE ICE CREAM—2.
1 quart cream,
1 quart milk,
1 quart strong, clear, hot coffee.

Heat the milk, and add the sugar and beaten eggs, (8 yolks and 2 whites may be used) strain, add coffee, cook till thick, and cool. Add the cream just before freezing.

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM—1.
1½ pounds sugar,
⅛ pound grated chocolate,

3 eggs,
1 pound sugar,

COFFEE ICE CREAM—1.
1 pound sugar,

COFFEE ICE CREAM—2.
1½ pounds sugar,
8 eggs,

<page_number>167</page_number>

ICE CREAM. <page_number>167</page_number>

SHERBETS.

1 pint fruit juice,
1 pint water,

These proportions are good for all varieties of fruit juices, and many nice combinations may be made. Currant sherbet is improved by adding raspberries in equal proportions. In lemon or orange sherbets soak the grated rinds of the fruit 10 minutes, in the boiling water to be used for syrup, and strain over the sugar. Prepare as for ices, and freeze according to directions. Ices or sherbets are used in layers with ice cream in moulds, and are considered excellent. In making orange sherbet the lemons may be omitted.

PINEAPPLE SHERBET.
1 quart grated pineapple pulp,
3 lemons, juice,
1 pint water,

Dissolve the sugar and bring to a boil, skim if not clear, and cool. Add to the pulp when cold, stir in the lemon juice, and freeze. Beat the whites of eggs thoroughly, and add to the ice when nearly frozen. The lemon juice may be omitted.

<img>A woman in a white dress with a black apron, holding a tray with a glass of iced tea.</img>
<page_number>2</page_number>

<img>A black and white illustration of a fish with a large eye and a mouth open, showing its teeth.</img>
MLATS

THE flesh of animals, poultry and game goes under the general term meat. In some localities the steak of large fish is erroneously classed under that name. Meats are made up of several substances—fibrine, gelatine, fat, albumen, and the juice of flesh. The real color of fibrine is white, taking its pinkish tinge from the blood. This goes to form the fiber and muscle of meat, and is made hard and tough by hard boiling, but is soluble in a moderate heat. Therefore, if meat has strong and tough fiber, put it on in boiling water, place the kettle where it will simmer, and boil gently for a long time. In this way the toughest meat may be made tender and palatable.

Plunging into boiling water at first closes the tissues and keeps in the juices of the meat. Gelatine is found in the bones, tendons, gristle, skin, sinews, and about the joints. Soak the parts from which it is to be removed in cold water, and then boil very gently for five or six hours, or until the meat is tender. Remove all bones and meat by straining; set where it will cool, when the fat will be found at the top, and the gelatine in a jelly-like mass at the bottom. This is useful for preparing jellied meats, sauces, sausages, meat loaves, meat cheeses, and pressed meats of every kind; or, warmed up properly with a spoonful of rice, a little milk, salted and flavored, it is good food for invalids.

The fat of meats gives warmth, and is an appropriate food for a cold climate. In temperate regions it should be used sparingly. The fat that comes out when cooking meat should be saved by itself. That of pork makes lard, and by careful and sufficient cooking may be kept any length of time. That from beef is tallow, and may be used in small quantities with lard nicely rendered, as drippings.

The juices of meat may be obtained by chopping the raw meat, enclosing in a jar, placing in cold water, and gradually raising the temperature until the water gently boils. This juice is used in

<page_number>168</page_number>

MEATS.
<page_number>169</page_number>

making teas and in extracts of meat. When meats are cooked for the meat itself, they should be so quickly heated at first as to close the tissues, and keep in the juices; but when used for soups or teas they may be very gradually heated to bring out the juices.

Young animals are tender, and do not need so much cooking, but their meat is not as nutritious as that of older ones.

Meats are always in season, though it were better to use the fatter meats in cooler, and leaner meats in warmer weather. Do not put meat directly upon the ice, or allow it to lie wrapped in butcher's paper. Take care of it when it first comes to the house, and, if there is a bloody piece about it, remove it. Lay it on a cool dish, and if to be kept some time, lay bits of charcoal about it, and place over ice in a cooler, as recommended for fish. Meat may be kept a long time in cold weather if care is taken, and it is much less expensive to buy a large quantity than to buy by the piece.

Broiling is the most wholesome method of cooking meats, and very acceptable to invalids. Tough steak is made more tender by pounding or hacking with a dull knife, but some of the juices are lost by the operation; cutting it across in small squares with a sharp knife on both sides is best. Tough meats are improved by lying two hours on a dish containing three or four tablespoons each of vinegar and salad oil, or butter, a little pepper, but no salt, and turning every twenty minutes. The action of the oil and vinegar softens the fibers without extracting their juices. Trim off all superfluous fat, but never wash a freshy out steak. Never salt or pepper steak or chops before or while cooking, but if very lean, dip in melted butter. Turn steaks with a small pair of tongs, as piercing with a fork frees the meat juices.

Frying is properly cooking in fat enough to cover the article, and when the fat is hot, and properly managed, the food is crisped at the surface, and does not absorb the fat. The process of cooking in just enough fat to prevent sticking has not yet been named in English, and is *scalding*, but is popularly known as frying, and ought to be banished from all civilized kitchens. The secret of success in frying is what the French call the "surprise." The fire must be hot enough to sear the surface and make it impervious to the fat, and at the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon

<page_number>170</page_number>
MEATS.

the meat is browned by this sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on the stove, that the process may be finished more slowly.

BEEF.

Beef should have a good outside layer of fat, and be well marbled with fat. The flesh should also be firm, of a bright red color, and the suet dry, and easily broken with the fingers. In buying a quarter of beef for immediate use, give the preference to a hind quarter. The fore quarter is cheaper, and contains, besides the roasting and boiling pieces, quite a good many pieces that may be corned, and kept; but it has less steak and thick pieces than the hind quarter. If a housekeeper has a butcher on whom to rely, it would be an invaluable lesson to go to his shop, observe the meat as it is cut and sorted, learn the different parts, and how to distinguish between them. Better pay him for the teaching, than to pay for sirloin, and get round steak. The first cut of sirloin is the end of the muscle, and not apt to be very tender. The second cut contains more of the tenderloin and is considered the best steak. The best pieces for roasting are the sirloin, tenderloin, and rib pieces. The sixth, seventh and eighth ribs are the best. It is well in a rib roast to have the bones taken out, and the roast rolled and tied by the butcher. Meat that is desired rare should have a very hot oven at first, and small pieces require a hot oven to prevent drying. For a large rare roast allow ten minutes to the pound, and a longer time for one better done. The first strong heat of the oven sears the meat, and keeps the juices inside; by lessening the heat afterward the inside is cooked without any burning of the surface. A double iron pan is particularly nice for all roasting purposes.

The gravy of roast meat is found in the dripping pan, under the fat, and should be poured carefully off and saved. If no water has been used in roasting, stock will need to be added, as only the fat will be found in the pan; but if water has been used, it will be meat-flavored enough to add water to make a sufficient quantity. If not brown enough, brown flour in the oven and rub smooth with a little butter, add to the gravy, and boil up slowly. Add salt and pepper. If it should prove lumpy, for any reason,

<img>A diagram showing a beef roast being prepared.</img>

MEATS.
<page_number>171</page_number>

it should be strained through a wire strainer. Twice the quantity of gravy needed should be made, as it is most useful in warming over the cold meats. Never serve a white gravy, however well made, with roast meat, nor should it be so brown as to have a burned taste.

**BEEFSTEAK BROLLED—1.**

Brolling steak is the very last thing to be done in getting breakfast or dinner; every other dish should be ready for the table, so that this may have undivided attention. A steel gridiron with slender bars is best, as the common broad, flat iron bars fry and scorch the meat, imparting a disagreeable flavor. The dampers which shut off the draft to the chimney should be thrown open to take the flames in that direction. Lift the broiler from the fire before removing the lid, as the smoke and flames rush out past the meat and smoke it. Place the steak on a well-greased gridiron, turn often so that the outside may be seared at once; when done, which will require from 5 to 10 minutes, lay it on a hot platter, season with salt, pepper, and bits of butter, cover with a hot platter, and serve at once. If the fat drips on the coals below, the blaze may be extinguished by sprinkling with salt; withdraw the grid-iron to prevent the steak from acquiring a smoky flavor. Always have a brisk fire, whether broiling in a patent broiler directly over the fire or on a gridiron over a bed of live coals.

Or, lay a thick, tender steak upon a well-greased gridiron over hot coals; when done on one side have ready the warmed platter with a little butter on it, lay the steak, without pressing it, upon the platter with the cooked side down so that the juices which have gathered may run on the platter, quickly place it again on the gridiron, and cook the other side. When done, place on the platter again, spread lightly with butter, season with salt and pepper, and set it where it will keep warm, for a few moments, but do not let the butter become oily. Serve on hot plates. It may be garnished with fried sliced potatoes, or with browned potato balls the size of a marble, piled at each end of the platter.

**BEEFSTEAK BROLLED—2.**

Remove the fat and bone. Grease the gridiron with the fat and lay on the steak. Broil over a clean fire, turning often. If liked

<page_number>172</page_number>

MEATS.

rare, broil from 3 to 5 minutes, or longer if it is to be well done.
Serve on a hot platter; add butter, salt, pepper, and cover for a few minutes with a hot cover. This is for steak an inch thick. If cooked through, a red juice follows the fork. If blood follows of a dark red color the steak is raw. If the steak is tough, pound with a steak pounder or hack with a sharp knife, but in this case the outside must be quickly seared over or the juices will be lost.

BEEFSTEAK FRIED.

When the means to broil are not at hand, heat the frying pan very hot, put in a steak previously hacked, let it remain a few moments, loosen with a knife and turn quickly several times; repeat this, and when done transfer to a hot platter; add salt, pepper, and bits of butter; pile the steaks one on top of another, and cover with a hot platter. This way of frying is both healthful and delicate. Or, heat the skillet, trim off the fat from the steak, cut in small bits and set on to fry; meanwhile pound the steak, draw the bits of suet to one side and put in the steak, turn quickly several times so as to sear the outside, take out on a hot platter previously prepared with salt and pepper, dredge well with flour, return to the skillet, repeating the operation until the steak is done; fry on a hot platter, covering with another one, and place where it will keep hot while making the gravy. Stir a tablespoon dry flour in the skillet, being sure to have the fat boiling hot, brown, free from lumps. (The bits of suet may be left in drawing them to one side until the flour is browned), pour in half a pint of boiling water, milk, or cream, stir well, season with pepper and salt, and serve in a gravy tureen. Spread bits of butter over the steak and send it to the table at once. This is more economical, but not so wholesome as broiling.

BEEFSTEAK WITH OYSTERS.

Cook the liquor of half a pint of oysters 2 minutes, skim well, add the oysters and boil 2 minutes, add 2 tablespoons cracker, rolled fine and smoothed with an equal amount of butter. Broil a nice steak carefully, lay it in a deep dish, adding salt, pepper, and butter, and pour the oysters over it. Serve with nice brown, buttered toast and a glass of cranberry jelly.

MEATS.
<page_number>173</page_number>

BEEFSTEAK WITH TOMATOES.

10 tomatoes, or 1 pound can,
½ pint beef stock,
1 rolled cracker,
1 onion.

Pare and stew the tomatoes with the oil in the beef stock I hour, and add the cracker, with salt and pepper. Broil a nice steak carefully, add butter, salt, pepper, and lay in a hot, deep platter. Pour the boiling sauce over the steak, and serve hot, with short cakes just from the oven. The onion and cracker may be omitted from the sauce.

CORNED BEEF, BOILED.

Soak over night if very salt, but if beef is young and properly corned this is not necessary; pour over it cold water enough to cover it well, after washing off the salt. The rule for boiling meats is 25 minutes to a pound, but corned beef should be placed on a part of the stove or range where it will simmer, not boil, uninterruptedly from 4 to 6 hours, according to the size of the piece. If to be served cold, let the meat remain in the liquor until cold. Tough beef should remain in the liquor until the next day, and be brought to the boiling point just before serving. Simmer a brisket or plate-piece until the bones are easily removed, fold over, forming a square or oblong piece, place sufficient weight on top to press the parts closely together, and set where it will become cold. This gives a firm, solid piece to cut in slices, and is a delightful relish.

Boil the liquor down, remove the fat, season with pepper or sweet herbs, and save it to pour over finely-minced scraps and pieces of beef; press the meat firmly into a mould, add the liquor, and place over it a close cover with a weight upon it. When turned from the mould, garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery, and serve with fancy pickles or French mustard.

FRESH BEEF, BOILED.

Wipe well, and if rib pieces, the bones may be removed and a close roll made by tying with strong twine. Plunge into boiling water, enough to cover it, skim when it boils, and cook very slowly until tender. Do not salt until half an hour before it is cooked. The rule for boiling beef is 25 minutes to the pound and 25 minutes extra, but one must be governed by the age and quality of the beef. After the beef is removed, boil the water quickly to 1

<page_number>174</page_number>
MEATS.

quart of liquid. Set self-sealing glass jars on a thick wet cloth, fill with the boiling liquor, put on the rubber, two if the can is old, and screw the top down quickly. Set away in a cool, dark place, and use as stock for gravy or soup.

FILLET OF BEEF.
Remove all veins and tough portions, with most of the fat. Rub well with salt, pepper and flour. On the bottom of the dripping pan place the pieces of fat, and a slice or two of fat salt pork. Have a hot oven and bake nearly 40 minutes. Take out and baste thoroughly. Sift cracker crumbs over it, and lay on several bits of butter. Return it to the oven, brown quickly and remove. Make the gravy as in directions for brown gravy, and to a portion of it add fried mushrooms, and serve with the roast. Garnish with nasturtium leaves and bloom. A stuffing may be made as for turkey, and baked separately, often basted with the meat gravy.

BEEF HEART, BOILED.
Prepare the same as for beef tongue. To flavor the heart, or prepare it for pressed meat, boil a half pound salt pork with it, and add spices and pepper to taste when it is chopped. To make into mince pies boil with the pork and chop both, or salt and boil alone.

BEEF HEART, STUFFED.
Take a beef, sheep or calf's heart, wash thoroughly to remove all blood, make the two cells into one by cutting through the partition with a long, sharp knife, being careful not to cut through to the outside; fill the cavity with a stuffing made as for roast turkey, cover with greased paper or cloth to secure it in place, and bake 2 hours or longer, in a deep pan with plenty of water, basting and turning often, as the upper part particularly is apt to get dry. While the heart is roasting, put the valves or "deaf ears," which must be cut off after washing, into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water and a sliced onion. Let simmer slowly 1 hour; melt a tablespoon butter, add a tablespoon flour, then the strained liquor from valves, boil up and serve as gravy.

BEEF LOAF.
One of the cheapest meats for breakfast or tea, as well as one of the nicest, is a beef loaf. Buy 4 or 5 pounds of the cheapest

MEATS.
<page_number>175</page_number>

pieces of beef, such as neck or rib pieces—those that are usually sold for a stew, but pieces without much bone,—if a larger loaf is desired a beef's heart may be added. Wash and cover with boiling water, and add a pound of salt pork, not too fat. Care must be taken that every scrap put into the kettle is perfectly clean and untainted, and scraps of steak or roast beef may be added. Let it come to a boil and skim, even the third time, if necessary. Put where it will just simmer all day. Remove, chop, and pick out all hard pieces and bones. Add 6 crackers and a little at a time, the liquor in which it was boiled until it is a thick mass. It may not take all the liquor. Add salt and pepper to taste. Butter a deep bread tin and pack the meat in solidly. Place in the oven and let stay 10 minutes, or until heated through. Set in a cold place. When partly cool if not solid enough put on a pressure.

To serve, loosen from the edges of the pan, hold in boiling water for a minute or two, turn out, and slice with a sharp knife from the end. If for breakfast, and potatoes are to be served, make a brown gravy with the liquor that may have been left.

This recipe may be varied to suit the meat in quantity and kind. If the meat is quite fat, or contains a good deal of gelatine, it may take more crackers. If very lean, as it would be if made wholly of heart and the pork, less crackers should be used. Other meats, as veal, pork, lamb, etc., may be used in this way and are very nice. If liver is added to it, first scald it and turn the water off. Cut it into small pieces and put into the kettle 30 minutes before removing from the fire.

**BEEF À LA MODE.**

In a piece of the rump, cut deep openings with a sharp knife; put in pieces of pork, cut into dice, previously rolled in pepper, salt, cloves and nutmeg. Into an iron stewanay lay pieces of pork, sliced onions, slices of lemon, one or two carrots, and a bay leaf; lay the meat on and put over it a piece of bread crust as large as the hand, one-half glass currant jelly, lemon juice, and afterwards an equal quantity of water or broth, till the meat is half covered; cover the dish close and cook till tender. Then take it out, rub the gravy thoroughly through a sieve, skim off the fat, add sour cream, return to the stewan and cook ten minutes. Instead of

<page_number>176</page_number>
MEATS.

cream, capers or sliced cucumber pickles may be added to the gravy, or a handful of grated gingerbread or rye bread. The meat may also be laid for some days before cooking in spiced vinegar.

RAGOUT OF BEEF.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 pounds round,</td>
    <td>6 cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>½ pound salt pork,</td>
    <td>1 stick cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>6 ripe tomatoes,</td>
    <td>Whole black peppers,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 or 3 onions,</td>
    <td>½ cup vinegar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Cut the tomatoes and onions into a kettle or pan having a closely fitting cover, and add the spices; gash the meat, stuff with the fat salt pork, cut into square bits, place it on the other ingredients, and pour over them the juice of a lemon and a cup of water; cover tightly, and bake in a moderate oven; cook slowly 4 or 5 hours, and, when half done, salt to taste. When cooked, take out the meat, strain the gravy and thicken with flour.

BEEF ROAST.
Take a rib piece or loin roast of 7 to 8 pounds. Beat it thoroughly all over, lay it in the roasting dish and baste it with melted butter. Put into the well-heated oven, and baste frequently with its own fat, which will make it brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, the gravy is growing too brown, turn a glass of boiling water into the bottom of the pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks away. The roast needs nearly two hours time for cooking, and must be brown outside but inside red and juicy. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with brown gravy and garnish with sliced lemons.

BEEF ROAST WITH PUDDING.
Roast beef as directed; make a Yorkshire pudding, to eat with the roast, as follows:

<table>
  <tr>
    <td colspan="2">Yorkshire Pudding.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
    <td>3 cups flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Pinch of salt,</td>
    <td>3 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Beat to a smooth batter, and pour into the dripping pan under the meat, or into a hot pan with some of the drippings from the beef which is roasting, and bake 30 minutes. Cut in squares and serve on the platter with the roast.

MEATS.
<page_number>177</page_number>

RIB ROAST.

Remove the ribs and backbone. Roll up smoothly and as closely as possible, the butcher will do this if asked, wind tightly with twine, and roast as sirloin, except that it will take a little longer to the pound. The potatoes may be browned in the pan with the beef. Serve with brown gravy in which a little parsley has boiled. Garnish with parsley and sliced blood-beet pickles.

THE RUMP ROAST.

Many prefer this roast to the other pieces as it is cheaper, all good and comes in better shape. It is excellent cold. Rub well with pepper and flour. When the flour in the pan is browned pour in a pint of water, and baste often. If a soft stewing sound comes from the oven it is doing well, but if the fat sizzles and snaps the water is out and the fat burning. If the whole rump is used carve it lengthwise. Many prefer the gravy when an onion or two has been roasted with the beef. Salt at the last basting.

SIRLOIN OF BEEF ROASTED.

Procur 8 pounds of the second cut of sirloin. No washing is necessary if the butcher is neat in handling it. Trim off all unsightly pieces and bits of gristle and wipe carefully with a wet cloth. Tie and skewer it into the shape to serve on the table. The flank piece may be cut off and left in the pan or saved for soup or stock. Use a large dripping pan. Lay the meat skin side down on a rack, or three or four sticks laid crosswise in the pan. Rub it well with flour. Have a quick fire to sear the cut sides of the meat, and when the flour on the bottom of the pan is brown the heat is great enough and may be gradually reduced. Many add a pint of hot water at this point to avoid so much basting. Baste often by dipping the fat and gravy from the pan over the meat. If the beef is liked very rare, an hour of steady baking after it is seared will be sufficient, but if well done, keep in a slow steady heat a half hour longer. There is much danger of burning the fat in the pan if the water is not added ; it will need constant watching, and great care must be given the fire. When nearly done turn and brown the under side and place skin side up on the platter. Carve by cutting thin slices parallel with the ribs, and by running the knife down the backbone to separate the slices. If

<page_number>178</page_number>
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some prefer the tenderloin, remove it from under the bone and slice in the same manner. Serve with mashed or browned potatoes, brown sauce or gravy. The meat may be made more attractive by a garnish of celery leaves and bunches of barberries.

ROUND OF BEEF SPICED.
20 pounds round, 1 ounce cloves, 3 ounces saltpetre, 1 nutmeg, 5⁄₂ ounces spice.
Rub the salt and spices together until well mixed. Rub the beef well with this powder after removing the bone. Put a part of the powder into a tub just large enough to hold the meat. Lay the beef on it and pour over it the rest of the powder. Rub it well every day for ten days. Wash the beef and bind it up compactly with a tape and fill in all spaces with pieces of suet. Lay in a pan of convenient size and drop bits of suet over it. Sprinkle with 3 ounces brown sugar, 1 tablespoon pepper, 1 ounce powdered mace, and add 1 pint of water, with the juice of a lemon. Cover closely and simmer 7 or 8 hours, adding water as it boils dry.

BEEF SMOTHERED.
Use 4 pounds of rump, or other thick roasting piece. Sear quickly on a hot frying pan or in a very hot oven. Put into a stew-kettle with 1½ cups of boiling water. Cover closely and put where it will just boil. Watch that the water does not boil away, or the meat will burn. Cook until tender, or about 3 hours. Add salt 15 minutes before taking up. Remove the meat carefully to a hotplatter. Add more water to the gravy, if necessary, and thicken with 1 tablespoon flour smoothed in butter. Serve the gravy in a boat.

MEATS. <page_number>179</page_number>

**MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES.**

It has been said that wasting is carried on so far and so extensively in American kitchens that it will soon be one of the common sciences, also, that the food thrown away by Americans would feed comfortably the French people. Granted the last statement to be exaggerated, the fact remains that the national habit is one of great prodigality in the use and waste of cooked and uncooked food. The following recipes suggest one means of improvement.

**DRIED BEEF.**

Slice it very thin, put in a frying pan with water to cover, let it just boil, pour off the water, and add a pint of milk, a lump of butter, and a thickening of a little flour and milk; stir well, and just before serving, add an egg, stirring it in quickly; or, chip very fine, freshen, add a lump of butter, 6 or 8 eggs, stir well, and serve at once. Cold, boiled or baked beef may be sliced and cooked in the same way. When ends or thin pieces of dried beef become dry and hard, put in cold water and boil slowly 6 or 8 hours, and slice when cold; or, soak over night in cold water, and boil 3 or 4 hours. Many think all dried beef is improved by this method.

**BEEFSTEAK STUFFED.**

This is nice for dinner, and can be prepared from a rather poor flank or round steak; pound it well, season with salt and pepper, spread with a nice dressing; roll up and tie closely with twine, put in a kettle with 1 quart boiling water, boil slowly 1 hour, take out and place in a dripping pan; add the water in which it was boiled, baste frequently until a nice brown, and make a gravy of the drippings; or, put it at once into the dripping pan, skewer 2 slices of salt pork on the top, add a very little water, baste frequently, and if it bakes too rapidly, cover with a dripping pan.

**CROQUETTES.**

Croquettes are made of meat or fowl previously cooked. They are dropped in boiling lard like fritters, and the easiest method is to lay them in a wire basket and plunge them for 5 or 10 minutes into the hot fat. They must be light, crisp and brown, but not greasy. It is better to make the day before using, and when wanted lay them in a hot oven on a thick, soft paper. Flat cakes,

<img>A hand holding a piece of bread.</img>

<page_number>180</page_number>

MEATS.

called balls, browned nicely on both sides, are a species of croquettes, and may be cooked in boiling lard, instead of frying in a pan. After the croquette mixture is prepared, then comes the moulding into round and long rolls, say 1 by 2½ inches. Have convenient to the moulding board, a saucer of flour, one of beaten egg, and a bowl of sifted bread crumbs. Let the hands be well floured. Take 1 tablespoon of the prepared meat, roll it between the palms of the hands into the required shape; if too thin they will break in frying. Dip them first into the egg, then the bread crumbs, being careful that they are well covered. Lay on a platter, separated from each other, and place them in a cold place for 1 hour at least. Then put them into a frying basket, and plunge into the boiling lard. When a golden brown, take out and lay on a clean paper in the mouth of the oven to dry. Garnish chicken croquettes with fried parsley, or stick a sprig of parsley or celery into one end. Lobster croquettes may be garnished with lettuce, or cress, or slices of lemon.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES—1.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cooked chicken,</td>
    <td>Cream,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 eggs,</td>
    <td>Celery,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Salt and pepper,</td>
    <td>Parsley.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

 Pound, or chop the meat very fine, add a little minced celery and parsley, and chopped oysters if liked; season with salt and pepper, moisten with cream or gravy; mix with the beaten eggs, and make into long balls. Egg and crumb, and boil in lard.

CHICKEN CROQUETTES—2.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 chicken,</td>
    <td>¼ pound butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¾ cup cream,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon flour,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>¼ cup broth,</td>
    <td>2 eggs, yolks,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Stew a three-pound chicken in a very little water flavored with parsley, celery, and onion, if the taste is liked. When done, cool, and chop very fine. Rub the butter and flour together, cook in a custard kettle, add the cream and broth. Boil till well thickened, take off the fire, add pepper and salt, and the chicken. Mix well, and stir in slowly the well-beaten eggs. Cook uncovered a few minutes, stirring constantly. Take out to cool and shape into rolls. Beat the yolk of 1 egg with 1 tablespoon of cream, dip the

MEATS.
<page_number>181</page_number>

rolls in this and then in sifted bread crumbs, and after standing 1 hour, boil in lard. These are improved by adding a little nutmeg and lemon juice just before taking from the fire.

Veal may be substituted for chicken in this and the previous recipe, and many consider turkey better than chicken.

**MEAT CAKES.**

Scraps of meat, as steak, roast, etc., may be chopped fine, patted into cakes an inch thick, and broiled over a quick fire; or laid in a very hot spider, and turned when brown. Serve with butter, salt, and pepper. These need to be well done. Spices, sage, savory, or any flavor may be added in the mixing. If herbs are used they should be dried and sifted.

**MEAT CROQUETTES.**

Use beef, chicken, lamb, mutton, veal or fish. To 1 pound meat use one-fourth pound bread crumbs, except in the case of fish, when potato is used. Moisten with gravy, cream, or a butter sauce, and mix with a beaten egg. Season with celery salt, pepper and salt, but omit the celery and add catsup to the beef and fish mixture. Finish according to directions.

**SALMI OF DUCK.**

Cut cold duck into nice pieces. Put the bones and giblets into a saucepan and cover with hot water; when it boils add 1 onion sliced, cloves, a bunch of herbs, pepper and salt. Cover and cook slowly 1 hour. Then strain, and cool sufficiently to take off any fat that has risen to the top. Return to the fire, add, when hot, the pieces of duck and simmer 1 hour more. Water may be added if needed. Brown 1 tablespoon each of flour and butter together, stir into the meat, and let boil up. Arrange the duck on a platter and garnish with croutons, bread cut in narrow oblongs, or diamond shapes, fried in boiling fat, or border with boiled rice. Stewed green peas may be added just before it is thickened.

**HASH.**

Cold meat of any kind will do, but corned beef is best ; remove all surplus fat and bits of gristle, season with salt and pepper, chop fine, and to one-third meat add two-thirds chopped cold boiled potato; 1 onion chopped very fine may be added. Place in the dripping pan, dredge with a little flour, and pour in at the side of

<page_number>182</page_number>
MEATS.

the pan a little water; put in the oven, and do not stir; when the flour is light brown, and has formed a sort of crust, take out, add a lump of butter, and stir it through several times. Or, by cook-
ing longer, it may be made of cold raw potatoes, which peel, slice,
and let lie in salt and water half an hour before chopping. For
fresh meat and potatoes, always use the proportions given above, and
before chopping, season with pepper and salt, a chopped onion if
liked; place in a hot skillet, moisten with water or gravy, add
a little butter or nice beef drippings, stir often until warmed through,
cover, and let stand on a moderately hot stove 15 minutes. When
ready to dish, run the knife under and fold as an omelet, and
serve with tomato catsup. In making veal hash use milk instead
of water with the gravy. In making hash, meats may be com-
bined if there is not enough of a kind.

TURKEY HASH

Pick the meat off turkey bones, shred it in small bits, add dress-
ing and fine pieces of light biscuit, mix all together and put into a
dripping pan; thoroughly moisten with the gravy, place in a hot
oven 20 minutes, and serve. Or, warm the remnants of the tur-
key over after the style of scalloped oysters. The common error
in heating over meats of all kinds is putting them into a cold skil-
let, and cooking a long time. This second cooking is more prop-
erly only heating, and should be quickly done. All such dishes
should be served hot with some sort of tart jelly. Save a can of
currant juice, from which to make jelly in the winter, and it will
be as fresh and delicious as when made in the summer.

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.
1 cup milk,
1 cup flour,
1 pound lamb chops or beefsteak.

Beat the egg thoroughly, add the milk, and stir in the flour; the
mixture should be like that for batter cakes. Butter well a pud-
ding dish; lay in the chops, sprinkle with pepper and salt; pour
over the batter, and bake 1 hour. Or, cut the steak in small
pieces, season, stir into the batter and bake.

MACARONI AND MEAT.
Chop lean, cold, roast beef or mutton very fine; nearly fill a

MEATS.
<page_number>183</page_number>

pudding dish with cold boiled macaroni; in the center put the chopped meat, carefully flavored with salt, pepper, thyme, and, if liked, a little liquor from canned tomatoes. Pour stock or gravy over all; cover with bread crumbs, add 2 tablespoons melted butter, and bake half an hour.

PATTIES.

Use recipe for Pyramid Pâtés, or make a puff paste, and after it has waited 1 hour in the ice box, or a very cold place, roll out quickly and cut rounds one-quarter inch thick with a biscuit cutter. Use three for a pâté, cutting a small round from the centre of two. Lay the rings on the whole one and bake in a quick oven. Just before taking from the stove, glaze with the white of an egg. A little round may be baked to serve as a cover to each pâté. These may be filled with the remnants of meat, poultry, fish or oysters, prepared in a tempting manner. Chicken and veal prepared as for croquettes make a nice filling. When the pâtés are filled and covered, heat through in a hot oven. Slices of stale bread, an inch thick, may be cut into rounds, and a small circle cut out from the centre to half its depth. Fry as croquettes, and fill with minced chicken, turkey or meat, seasoned with its gravy.

BEEFSTEAK PIE.

Cut steak and a small slice of ham into dice; put them into a frying pan with a little butter and 2 chopped onions; let them simmer 15 minutes; add 1 pint sliced potatoes, 1 pint stock, with salt, pepper, and a little flour. Cook 20 minutes, and pour into a baking dish lined with a nice pastry. Cover, and bake till done. Or, cut beefsteak into half-inch pieces, season, lay in a dish lined with paste, add butter, water or stock, and a little flour; cover, and bake in a moderate oven.

LANCASHIRE PIE.

Take cold beef or veal, chop, and season as for hash; have ready hot mashed potatoes, seasoned; put in a shallow baking dish first a layer of meat, then a layer of potatoes, and so on, till the dish is full; smooth over the top of the potatoes, and make little holes in which place bits of butter; bake a nice brown.

MEAT PIE.

Put a layer of cold roast beef or other meat, chopped very fine,

<img>A recipe card for various meat dishes.</img>

<page_number>184</page_number>
MEATS.

in the bottom of a dish, season with pepper and salt, add a layer of powdered crackers, with bite of butter, a little milk, and fill the dish with alternate layers; moisten with gravy or broth, or warm water; spread over all a thick layer of crackers which have been seasoned with salt and mixed with milk and a beaten egg; stick bits of butter thickly over it, cover with a tin pan, and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour; remove the cover 10 minutes before serving, and brown. Or, cover some bones with a pint of cold water, and let them simmer for an hour; strain and add a chopped onion, 3 tablespoons Chili sauce, a level tablespoon salt, and the chopped meat; let simmer a few minutes, thicken with a tablespoon flour mixed in water, let boil once, take off and cool; put a layer of this in a pudding dish, then a layer of sliced hard-boiled eggs and a few slices of cold, boiled potatoes; repeat the process. Cover with pastry or a baking powder crust, make an opening in the center, and bake 40 minutes.

MUTTON PIE.

Spread the bottom of a baking dish with bread crumbs, and fill with alternate layers of cold roast mutton, cut in thin slices, and tomatoes, peeled and sliced; season each layer with pepper, salt and bits of butter. The last layer should be of tomatoes spread with bread crumbs. Bake three-quarters of an hour, and serve immediately.

VEAL AND HAM PIE.

Prepare a seasoning of 3 parts salt, 1 part pepper, and a dust of nutmeg. Take meat in the proportion of two-thirdsveal to one-third ham, cut into thin slices, rub with the above seasoning, roll up and place them in a dish, adding water and chopped hard-boiled eggs. If the ham is very salt, use less salt and more pepper in the seasoning. Parsley improves veal. Forcemeat, catsup, mushroom, tomato, or a little Worcestershire sauce may also be added. Use good pastry for the pie.

MEATS.
<page_number>185</page_number>

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.

In carving beef, mutton, lamb, pork and veal, thin, smooth slices are desirable. Cut across the grain, taking care to pass the knife through to the bones of the meat. There are two modes of carving a sirloin of beef; either by cutting long, thin slices from 3 to 4, and serving it with a bit of the fat underneath the ribs, or by cutting thicker slices, from 1 to 2, through the tenderloin.

Carve a rib roast from the thick to the thin end. Before slicing run the knife behind and under the meat, to free it from the bones.

HAM.

A ham may be carved in three ways: First, by cutting long, delicate slices, through the thick fat from 1 to 2, down to the bone; second, by running the point of the knife in the circle in the middle, and cutting thin circular slices, thus keeping the ham moist; and last, and most economically, by beginning at the knuckle, 4-5, and slicing upward

A leg of pork may be carved like ham.

LEG OF MUTTON.

In carving a leg of mutton the best slices are obtained from the center, by cutting from 1 to 2; and very good cuts are found on the broad end from 5 to 6. Some epicures prefer slices nearer the knuckle, but they are dry. The cramp-bone is a delicacy, and is obtained by cutting down to the bone at 4, and running the knife under it in a semi-circular direction to 3. The fat so esteemed by many lies on the ridge 5. By turning over the meat excellent slices are found and may be cut lengthwise.

<page_number>186</page_number>
MEATS.

SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
A shoulder of mutton should be cut down to the bone, in the direction of the line 1, and thin slices of lean meat taken from each side. The best fat is found at 2, and should be cut in that direction. Several tempting slices may be cut on either side of the line 3, and on the under side near the flap.

TONGUE.
A tongue should be carved as "thin as a wafer," its delicacy depends in a great degree upon that. The center slices are considered the best, and should be cut across at the line 1; serve the slices taken from each side, with a portion of the fat which is at 'ts foot.

FILLET OF VEAL.
Carve thin smooth slices from the top and serve with portions of the fat and dressing. In carving a breast of veal, first separate the breast and brisket. Carve a loin roast like sirloin of beef, and a rib roast like beef, but in thicker slices, and serve with the fat and kidney.

HAUNCH OF VENISON.
A haunch of venison should be cut across to the bone on the line 1-3-2, turn the dish a little, put the point of the knife at 3, and cut down as deep as possible in the direction of 3-4, and continue to cut slices on the right and left of the line. The fattest parts are found between 4 and 2. A loin of veal or a loin of mutton should be jointed by the butcher before it is cooked, and the carver easily cuts through the ribs. A portion of the kidney and the fat should be served on each plate.

<img>A vintage illustration of a hand holding a ladle over a pot of food.</img>
# RELISHES

**CATSUPS**, sauces and vinegars come under this caption and are served with various dishes, or incorporated into others, to give an appetizing or piquant flavor.

COLD CATSUP.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ peck tomatoes,</td>
    <td>½ cup salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 heads celery,</td>
    <td>½ cup white mustard seed,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 white onions,</td>
    <td>2 red peppers,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup nasturtiums,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon black pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup horse-radish,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon ground cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon ground cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 quart vinegar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Chop ripe tomatoes and the onions and sprinkle with salt, letting them stand 2 hours. Chop finely the celery, red peppers and nasturtium seeds, and grate the horse-radish. Mix these with the salt, spices, sugar, and vinegar. Drain the tomatoes and onions, mix thoroughly with the other ingredients, and seal in jars.

CUCUMBER CATSUP.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 onions,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 red peppers,</td>
    <td>1 quart vinegar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Pare, seed and grate the cucumbers. Let the pulp drain all night from a thin bag. Throw away the juice and add the salt and vinegar to the pulp, with finely chopped onions and peppers. Mix well and seal in bottles. Serve with fish.

CURRANT CATSUP.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>3 quarts currant juice,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 pounds sugar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint vinegar,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon pepper,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Boil 20 minutes, then put in bottles and cork tight.

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP.
<table>
  <tr>
    <td>8 pounds gooseberries,</td>
    <td>4 ounces cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 pounds brown sugar,</td>
    <td>2 ounces cloves,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

The gooseberries should be almost ripe. Wash and put them
<page_number>187</page_number>

<page_number>188</page_number>

**RELISHES.**

into a porcelain kettle; mash, scald and rub them through a coarse sieve; add the sugar and boil 3 hours, then the spices tied in a bag, and cook a little longer. Add or omit vinegar and bottle immediately.

**GRAPE CATSUP.**
5 pounds grapes,
2½ pounds sugar,
1 tablespoon allspice,
1 tablespoon pepper,
Stew the grapes over a slow fire until soft. Then strain through a sieve. Add the sugar, vinegar and spices. Boil until thickened and bottle.

**MUSHROOM CATSUP.**
1 ounce whole allspice,
24 whole cloves,
¼ ounce ginger root,
1 blade mace.
Wipe freshly-gathered mushrooms and put in layers in an earthen dish, sprinkling each layer with salt. Cover with a damp folded cloth, and let stand 36 hours in a warm place. Strain through a coarse sieve. To 1 quart juice add 1 ounce peppercorns; put in a kettle and boil half an hour; add the spices, let simmer gently 15 minutes, take from the fire and cool. When cold, strain and seal in glass bottles.

**SUPERIOR CATSUP.**
½ bushel tomatoes,
3 tablespoons salt,
2 tablespoons sugar,
Slice the tomatoes, boil 15 minutes or till tender, strain through a hair sieve, add the other ingredients and cook down slowly in a porcelain-lined kettle to half the quantity. Three white onions may be added, and if very sour catsup is liked one cup of vinegar, just before bottling; otherwise it is no improvement.

**GREEN TOMATO CATSUP.**
4 quarts tomatoes,
2 quarts cabbage,
1 pint onions,
6 pods red peppers,
1 pound brown sugar,
1 tablespoon horse-radish,
Chop finely the tomatoes, cabbage, onions and peppers; sprinkle

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>5 pounds grapes,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ pounds sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon allspice,</td>
    <td>⅛ teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon pepper,</td>
    <td>1 pint vinegar,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>½ bushel tomatoes,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cayenne pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>3 tablespoons salt,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon allspice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>4 quarts tomatoes,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons mustard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts cabbage,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint onions,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons ginger,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>6 pods red peppers,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound brown sugar,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon cinnamon,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon horse-radish,</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon mace.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

**RELISHES.** <page_number>189</page_number>

with salt and lot stand over night. Drain, add the spices and sugar and boil slowly 4 hours; it should be thick and smooth. Keep in bottles.

**TOMATO CATSUP.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 bushel tomatoes,</td>
    <td>3 ounces allspice,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>15 white onions,</td>
    <td>1 ounce cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 pounds brown sugar,</td>
    <td>3 ounces mustard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 quarts vinegar,</td>
    <td>2 graded nutmegs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 pint salt.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Select firm ripe tomatoes, wipe them with a damp cloth, and slice into a porcelained-lined kettle. Pour over them 3 pints water, and throw in the sliced onions and 2 handfuls peach leaves. Boil till the tomatoes are soft, which will take from 1 to 2 hours. Strain through a coarse sieve, return the liquid to the kettle and add the spices ground and mixed, the salt, sugar and vinegar. Mix well together before setting over the fire. Boil slowly 2 hours, stirring almost constantly to prevent burning. Cayenne pepper may be added to taste. Fill bottles and seal. Keep in a cool dry place.

**WALNUT CATSUP.**

Gather walnuts while sufficiently tender to run a needle through them. Pound in stone mortar. Put them into a porcelained-kettle, cover with water and cook slowly 2 or 3 hours. Strain, and add to the liquor 1 teaspoon each ground mace and cloves; boil down to one-third the quantity. Fill the bottles with equal parts of the mixture and strong vinegar and seal immediately. A little garlic may be added with the spices.

**WORCESTERSHIRE CATSUP.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 gill walnut catsup,</td>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ ounce cayenne pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{1}{4}$ gill made mustard,</td>
    <td>10 whole cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 heads bruised garlic,</td>
    <td>1 blade mace,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>6 mashed anchovies,</td>
    <td>1 quart vinegar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix all t.c. ingredients but the catsup and mustard, cover and let stand 18 hours. Sift and add the catsup and mustard. Keep 2 weeks in a stone jug; then bottle and seal.

**PREPARED HORSE-RADISH.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1 coffeecup grated horse-radish,</td>
    <td>2 tablespoons white sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>$\frac{3}{4}$ teaspoon salt,</td>
    <td>1 pint cold vinegar.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Mix thoroughly and keep well corked in a large-mouthed bottle,

<img>A vintage illustration of a salad bowl with various ingredients.</img>
# SALADS

T
HE materials for salad must be fresh and of the best quality, and their combination harmonious. Lettuce, celery and cress must be washed carefully, dried lightly and handled delicately. Lettuce and cress should be shredded with the fingers, celery and cabbage cut with a knife, vegetable salads stirred as little as possible, and all salads served the day they are prepared. All gristle, fat, and skin must be removed from fowl or meat, and the flesh cut in pieces with a knife.

All the ingredients of a salad, as well as the bowl, fork and spoon, used in the preparation should be very cold, and the dressing be mixed in a cool place. Salad dressing cannot be made in a hurry, and requires both carefulness and patience on the part of the one who prepares it.

Be careful that the olive oil is the best; powder the yolks of hard-boiled eggs in a mortar, or rub them smooth with the back of a spoon; beat the yolks of raw eggs thoroughly, and save the whites for cake or icing for they add nothing to the salad. Add the dry things to the eggs first, and if it is of the character of a mayonnaise dressing, stir well together. Add the oil, drop by drop, stirring or rubbing steadily and in one direction, occasionally dropping in a little vinegar to prevent cracking, or more oil to stop curdling. Mix until smooth and of the consistency of thick cream. Long practice will enable one to use nearly half a cup of oil with an egg. A mayonnaise dressing is very difficult to make, but a favorite when prepared. The juice of a lemon may be substituted for vinegar, but it whitens the dressing. Fresh sweet butter and sweet cream may be used in place of oil. A cooked dressing is made in a similar manner to boiled custard, beating the eggs, condiments, vinegar, etc. together, and cooking in boiling water. The butter may be added before the dressing is taken from the stove, but it is better not to add the cream until afterward. All except hot dressing should be made at least three hours before using.

<page_number>190</page_number>

**SALADS.** <page_number>191</page_number>

The following salad rhyme of Sidney Smith loses none of its charm through repetition:

**SALAD DRESSING.**

To make this condiment your poet begs
The pounded yellow of two hard-boiled eggs;
Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve,
Smoothness and softness to the salad give;
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl,
And, half suspected, animate the whole;
Of mordant mustard, add a single spoon,
Distrust the condiment that bites so soon;
But, deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault
To add a double quantity of salt;
Four times the spoon with oil from Lucca crown;
And twice with vinegar procured from town;
And lastly, o'er the favorite compound toss
A magic soupcon of anchovy sauce.
O green and glorious! O herbaceous treat!
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat;
Back to the world he'd turn his fleeting soul,
And plunge his fingers in the salad bowl;
Serenely full, the epicure would say,
"·Fate cannot harm me—I have dined to-day."

**SALAD DRESSING—1.**
1 tablespoon mustard,
2 tablespoons cream,
3 tablespoons butter,
3 eggs.

Beat the eggs, adding the salt, pepper, mustard, melted butter, cream or milk, and vinegar; put in a double boiler and cook till smooth and thick, stirring to prevent burning. Use with cabbage or potato salad.

**SALAD DRESSING—2.**
2 eggs, yolks,
½ teaspoon pepper,
2 teaspoons made mustard,
½ cup vinegar,

2 teaspoons white sugar,
1 teaspoon salt,
1 tablespoon butter,
½ cup milk.

Beat thoroughly the yolks of the eggs in a bowl; mix with the

<page_number>192</page_number>
SALADS.

other ingredients; set in a kettle of hot water and stir constantly till it thickens. When cool, it is ready for use. This is sufficient for 3 pints of sliced cabbage, and should be thoroughly mixed with the cabbage before serving.

BOTTLED SALAD DRESSING.
8 eggs,
1 tablespoon black pepper,
1 cup sugar,
1 tablespoon salt,
1 cup cream,
1 tablespoon mustard,
1 cup butter,
1/2 pint vinegar,
A pinch cayenne.

Beat the yolks of eggs, add the other ingredients except the butter and mix thoroughly; heat the vinegar, add the butter, boil and pour over the mixture, stir well while cooking, and when cold bottle and set in a cool place. It will keep for weeks in the hottest weather and is excellent for cabbage or lettuce.

GOOD SALAD DRESSING.
3 eggs, yolks,
1 cup vinegar,
1/2 cup warm water,
1/2 cup cream, or butter,
1 tablespoon mustard,
1/2 teaspoon sugar,
1 teaspoon salt,
Cayenne pepper.

Mix the sugar, salt, pepper, mustard and water; when smooth add the cream or melted butter. Let it come to a boil; take from the fire, and whip into the previously beaten eggs. Cook in boiling water, and when thickened, add the vinegar gradually. Use when cold. Or, beat the eggs and condiments together; add the vinegar and water and cook in a custard kettle until thick. Take from the fire and beat in the cream. In place of warm water use milk, and the sharpness of the vinegar will be modified. Good for use with any salad.

FRENCH DRESSING.
1/2 cup olive oil,
Salt and pepper,
1 tablespoon vinegar,

Add salt and pepper to the oil, which must be of the finest quality, in the proportion of twice as much salt as pepper; a little mustard many think is an improvement; beat in slowly the vinegar that the whole may be of a creamy consistency. Vary the amount of vinegar according to the salad, or rub in smooth the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with the salt and pepper, and add vinegar and oil

SALADS.
<page_number>193</page_number>

**M** **A** **N** **O** **N** **A** **I** **S** **E** DRESSING.

2 eggs, yolks,
Lemon juice or vinegar,
Olive oil,
Salt and pepper,
1 teaspoon made mustard.

Chill the eggs, oil, and the plate to be used. Break the eggs, dash a little white pepper and half a salt spoon salt into the yolks and mix thoroughly, adding the mustard; add the oil drop by drop, stirring slowly and in the same direction. If it begins to crack drop in vinegar, still stirring; if it curdles use oil and keep it always in the form of cream. This recipe makes one large cup of dressing. Lemon juice may be used in making a white dressing, and if the oil is disliked, take melted sweet butter, but it is not then mayonnaise.

**MUSTARD DRESSING.**

1 egg, yolk,
½ teaspoon boiling water,
½ cup oil,
1 teaspoon mustard,
Vinegar,
Salt and pepper.

Rub smooth the mustard and water with salt and pepper as in French dressing and stir slowly into the yolk of the egg. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring steadily and in one direction, also the vinegar and avoid either cracking or curdling. Both patience and management are required to make a nice mustard or mayonnaise dressing. This dressing will keep 2 weeks on ice. If the oil separates any time it can be rubbed smooth with a few drops of vinegar.

**ASPARAGUS SALAD.**

Cut tender asparagus into inch pieces and throw them into cold water. Drain, and cook in boiling water salted in the proportion of 1 teaspoon to 1 quart of water. Drain and let stand till cold. Add the dressing, mix well, and serve after standing 1 hour.

**ARTICHOKE SALAD.**

Wash thoroughly, pare, and quarter some very young artichokes. Serve them with salt, pepper and vinegar, and oil if liked, or cook them in their skins in salted boiling water until tender. Drain

<page_number>194</page_number>
**SALADS.**

and when cold, peel and quarter. Serve cold with French dressing.
A few drops of tarragon vinegar improves the dressing.

**CAULIFLOWER SALAD.**
Take nicely boiled cauliflower, separate the branches, and mix them with any dressing. A little tarragon vinegar and finely chopped parsley may be added if French dressing is used.

**CELERY SALAD.**
Cut bleached celery in inch lengths after standing 5 minutes in very cold water. Mix with French or mayonnaise dressing and serve within 10 minutes. Or, the celery may be cooked and served with a dressing like cauliflower salad. Or, the long stalks may be eaten with salt.

**CHICKEN SALAD.**
3 chickens,
1 teaspoon black pepper,
3 eggs,
4 hard-boiled eggs,
1 pint vinegar,
2 tablespoons mustard,
4 tablespoons butter,
2 tablespoons sugar,
Celery,
1 teaspoon salt.

Cook the chickens in salted water until tender; when cold cut in small pieces, and add twice the quantity of celery cut in dice, and the hard-boiled eggs sliced; mix well together. Make the dressing in a double-boiler. Beat the eggs thoroughly with the mustard, pepper, sugar and salt, and pour slowly into the vinegar heating in the boiler; stir till it thickens. When cold pour over the salad, or just before serving. A little lemon juice may be added to whiten the dressing; garnish with white celery tips.

**CHICKEN OR TURKEY SALAD.**
1 pint meat,
Salad dressing,
2 hard-boiled egzs,
1 pint celery.

Cut the meat in dice, set in the ice box 2 hours. Mix with the celery and eggs, cut in pieces, arrange as it is to be served and pour over it a liberal quantity of mayonnaise or other dressing. Garnish with celery tips and olives. Lettuce may be used for celery, and celery salt or seed added to the dressing. Or, mix the dressing with the meat and celery and serve after standing a little while in the ice box. Many omit the eggs, add a little French dressing to the meat before setting on the ice, and a mayonnaise

**SALADS.** 195

or other dressing after the celery is mixed with the chicken and just before serving.

**CUCUMBER SALAD.**

Select fresh young cucumbers and chill them by keeping a few hours in an ice-box, cover them a short time with ice and salt. Peel, slice very thin, and add salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil if liked, just before serving, or prepare the salad with equal quantities of sliced cucumbers and white onions, and serve with any French dressing. It is advisable to put a lump of ice in the center of the salad bowl.

**ENDIVE SALAD.**

This should be well blanched and crisp. Cut off the root and the dark green leaves; break the others apart, wash, drain and serve with mayonnaise dressing. A few chives may be served with it.

**FISH SALAD.**

Take remnants of boiled fish, or a can of salmon freshly boiled. Remove the skin, fat and bones, cut in small pieces, sprinkle with pepper and salt, add capers or whole allspice, and enough vinegar to stand on the top. Cover, let stand a few hours, serve on lettuce leaves with or without a dressing. Garnish as usual. Or, cut salmon, white fish or trout in small pieces, mix with an equal quantity of lettuce or cabbage, adding a few slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve with any good dressing, and garnish with the heart leaves of lettuce.

<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<td>Cold boiled ham,</td>
<td>1 tablespoon made mustard</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3 heads lettuce,</td>
<td>1 tablespoon butter</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3 eggs, yolks,</td>
<td>½ tablespoon salt</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>½ pint sour cream,</td>
<td>½ tablespoon sugar</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>½ pint vinegar,</td>
<td>1 teaspoon pepper.</td>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td colspan="2">Mix the cream, vinegar, pepper, salt, sugar and mustard, cook over hot water, thicken with the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and set in the ice box or a cold place. Cut the ham into small bits, shred the lettuce, and put both into a salad bowl. Pour the dressing over the mixture. Stir well and serve. Or, mix any strong dressing with the ham and lettuce and serve on lettuce leaves.</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>

HAM SALAD.

<page_number>196</page_number>

SALADS.

SOUTHERN COLD SLAW.
3/4 cup vinegar,
3/4 cup water,
1/4 cup cream,
1 tablespoon butter,

Beat the eggs and condiments together and work in the butter while the vinegar and water are heating over the fire; when boiling stir in the mixture, add the cabbage, previously sliced, washed and drained, and mix all well together. Before it begins to wilt, take it from the fire, pour into the salad bowl, and when partially cool stir in the cream. Serve cold. The salad is nice if the cream is omitted.

CREAM SALAD.
4 quarts cabbage,
1 pint vinegar,
1 pint sour cream,
1/2 cup sugar,
4 eggs,

Shave the cabbage very fine; boil the vinegar, sugar, and butter in a saucepan; stir in the well-beaten eggs, cream, flour and condiments; cook thoroughly, pour over the cabbage and serve when cold or hot. The cream may be added just before mixing with the cabbage.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Southern Cold Slaw.</td>
    <td>1/2 teaspoon mustard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1/2 teaspoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon sugar,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>2 eggs, yolks.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Cream Salad.</td>
    <td>1 tablespoon mustard,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon salt,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 tablespoon butter,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td></td>
    <td>1 teaspoon flour.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

<img>A man holding a basket of vegetables in a field.</img>

<img>A cartoon illustration of a man holding a ladle over a pot of soup.</img>
**SOUP**

A LL varieties of soup come under the head of bouillon, broth, consommé or stock, and soup purées. The rules for soup making are very simple. First, never let the soup stop boiling until it is done; second, never add water after the soup commences boiling. Continued boiling does not mean rapid boiling; avoid that, for it leaves the soup muddy, and too much evaporation takes place. Add fresh fuel carefully to prevent a rapid blaze or a deadened fire.

Bouillon is served as a clear, strong soup at dinners, as a beverage at lunches or for invalids. In the latter case it is much better not to clarify it except by passing it through a fine strainer. Broth is a thin soup, the liquor in which beef, chicken, mutton or veal is boiled, without any vegetables. Stock is the basis of all soups; the utmost care should be used in the preparation of both stock and bouillon.

Each must boil the time given in the recipe, and be strained into an earthen bowl. The next day take off all the fat, and pour the clear part into a saucepan and boil at least one hour. Pour it into small jars or pitchers so that if only a small quantity is wanted for use, the rest of the stock need not be disturbed.

The stock must be a firm, clear jelly, and will keep nicely in the ice box for a few days. The sediment or thick part of the soup is very nutritious and is used in a purée or thickened soup.

Fresh, uncooked beef and cracked bones, with veal or chicken, make the best stock. The bones, particularly the leg bones, contain the glutinous matter essential to a good soup. Veal and fowls are used for white soups. Mutton is too strongly flavored to make nice stock, and veal alone has but little nutritive properties. Soups which make the principal part of a meal should be richer than those which precede a course of meats, etc. When remnants of

<page_number>197</page_number>

<page_number>198</page_number>
**SOUP.**

cooked **meats** are used, chop fine, crush the bones, add a ham-bone or bit of ham or salt pork, the ends of roasts, and the brown fat of the roast; add vegetables ; when done, strain, set away over night, skim off the fat, and it is ready to use. Soup made from cooked meats should be used immediately since it will not keep for stock. Soup must always be emptied from the kettle into an earthen dish, and it must not be covered or it will sour quickly. In very hot weather it is best to reheat stock daily if a large quantity is made.

The meat from which stock is made is ordinarily useless, but meat from a quick soup may be used in hashes, croquettes, or seasoned and pressed, after mincing.

A purée is made by boiling vegetables slowly in broth or water, sifting them when tender, and diluting to the consistency of thick cream with stock, milk or water. Purées must be well seasoned, and are improved by the addition of eggs, cream and butter. They should be used within twelve hours after they are made.

TO CLEAR SOUP.

In forty-nine cases out of fifty it will not be necessary to clarify soup if it is properly made. When it is desired, either raw beef or white of egg may be used ; but egg impoverishes the soup while beef enriches it. Add to every quart of cold stock half a pound of raw lean beef, chopped fine; also add a scraped carrot, a small turnip and a leek cut in dice, to the whole amount of soup. Set over the fire, keep stirring and when it boils let it simmer gently half an hour. Strain through bags of fine, thin cloth and flannel. To clarify with eggs : stir into three quarts of cold soup the whites and crushed shells of two eggs. Place over the fire and boil ten minutes. Take off the fire, and after standing ten minutes, strain the soup through a flannel bag. Clarified soup will become cloudy if allowed to stand long before using.

**CEREALS AND VEGETABLES.**

**Cereals.—** Pearl and Scotch barley, hominy and rice are used in white soup. Though differently classified, arrowroot, farina, macaroni, sago, tapioca, and vermicelli are desirable for the same purpose.

**Vegetables.—** In most cases it is better to cook the vegetables

**SOUP.**

<page_number>199</page_number>

with the stock, to secure their strength, richness and flavor; and the pulpy mass is rejected by straining. The principal vegetables in use are, asparagus, beans, carrots, green corn, garlic, onions, okra, parsnips, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, and turnips. Cabbage is occasionally used, but in a sufficient quantity to make the principal part of the soup. Green or dried pea, and bean soup should always be strained before serving. A thick soup of this character is called a purée. Asparagus, celery, and often tomato is served in the soup.

**COLORS, SPICES AND SEASONINGS.**

**Colors.—The best color for soups is obtained from good materials and long cooking. Caramel, or burnt sugar, gives a rich brown color, grated carrot an amber hue, the juice of tomatoes a red shade, and pounded spinach a fine green tint. Skim the soup before adding the carrot. Bruise the spinach in a mortar, tie in a cloth and squeeze out the juice; add to the soup five minutes before taking from the fire. Mock-turtle soup should have this color, and it is sometimes used in veal and lamb soups. Okra will give a green shade, also parsley or celery leaves, if cooked in soup.

**Spices.—For brown soup use dark spices, like cloves and all-spice; for white soup, mace, aromatic seeds, and curry powder. The simplest and absolutely essential spices are pepper and salt, but too much of each will spoil any soup. Mace is especially adapted to chicken and oyster soup. Spiced vinegar, from sweet pickles or choewhow, gives a nice flavor, and catsups and sauces are often a great improvement.

**Seasoning.—The best herbs are sage, thyme, sweet marjoram, tarragon, mint, sweet basil, parsley and bay-leaves. Gather and dry them as follows: parsley and tarragon in June and July; just before flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram and savory, in July and August; basil and sage, in August and September. All herbs should be gathered in the sunshine, and dried by artificial heat; their flavor is best preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans, or in tightly-corked glass bottles. An agreeable flavor is given to soup by sticking cloves into a piece of meat or an onion; sliced onions fried in butter, or in butter and flour, and

<page_number>200</page_number>
SOUP.

rubbed through a sieve improves the color and flavor of many soups.
The red pepperpod cooked in the soup is preferable to cayenne added just before serving. Lemon and orange juice and the peel often impart a very fine flavor. Thickened soups require twice the seasoning needed for thin soups or broth.

STOCK FOR SOUP.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>6 pounds shin of beef,</td>
    <td>3 large onions,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Knuckle of veal, or</td>
    <td>2 carrots,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 old fowl,</td>
    <td>1 head celery,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>8 quart cold soft water,</td>
    <td>6 cloves,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Salt and pepper,</td>
    <td>Parsley,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 cup tomatoes,</td>
    <td>Blade of mace.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Crack the bones well and cut the meat in pieces 3 or 4 inches square; put them into a stock-pot with the salt, pepper, and water, and cook slowly 1 hour. Apply more heat and at the end of 2 hours add the vegetables, with the cloves stuck into the onions. Cook gently but steadily 8 hours longer. Take it off, strain, and set away to cool. The next day remove the fat, take off the clear jelly, and boil it 1 hour. Pour it into quart jars or pitchers, and keep it in a very cold place. This jelly may be used in various ways, and diluted with hot water, if desired less strong. Vegetables must be cooked in boiling salted water before adding to the hot stock. Season, cook together for a few moments and serve.

White stock is used for white soups and is made as just described, omitting the beef and using both veal and chicken.

To make stock of a golden color, add to the beef and veal 1 pound ham and boil slowly 5 hours. Fry the onions in a little butter, and add with the other vegetables to the soup; omit the mace and tomatoes and add 1 small parsnip. Boil slowly 2 hours longer. Strain and let stand over night. Remove the fat, take out the clear jelly and mix with the broken shells and unbeaten whites of 2 eggs. Boil 10 minutes and strain through a jelly bag; do not squeeze it.
If it is not clear and a golden brown color, strain again until clear. Take great care to have a bright clean kettle, and scald the sieve before it is used.

Any part of a raw chicken, beef bones, or pieces of raw meat may be added when the stock is first put over the fire; but cooked

**SOUP.** <page_number>201</page_number>

meat or bones will make the soup muddy. After the jelly-like part of the meat is taken off use the sediment remaining for thick soups. It is the richest part of the soup.

To make stock successfully, follow the directions carefully, and never let the soup stock boiling one moment, neither add water after it commences to boil.

**EGG BALLS.**

6 hard-boiled eggs, yolks, 2 eggs, yolks,
Salt and flour.

Rub the yolks of the cooked eggs to a smooth paste; beat the raw yolks with a little salt, and add gradually to the egg paste. Stir in just enough flour to roll into small balls and drop into boiling salted water, or broth, for 5 minutes.

**FORCEMEAT BALLS.**

Mince fine cold veal, chicken, ham or soup meat, and season with pepper, salt, a little lemon juice, and grated peel, or a little minced onion fried in butter. Mix with the beaten yolk of an egg, cracker or bread crumbs and roll in balls. Fry in butter 8 to 10 minutes or poach 5 minutes in boiling water. Forcemeat, if made in small balls, may be served in the soup. Large balls are served as an entrée. Parsley and thyme may be used for seasoning the stronger meats.

**SOYER'S FORCEMEAT BALLS.**

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1½ pounds veal,</td>
    <td>1 teaspoon beef suet,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pound fresh suet,</td>
    <td>½ teaspoon pepper,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>6 ounces panada,</td>
    <td>4 eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td colspan="2">A little grated nutmeg.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Buy the fillet and cut into long thin slices; scrape with a knife until only the fibre remains; put the pulp into a mortar, pound 10 minutes, and pass through a wire sieve; use that which remains for soups. Skin, shred, and chop the suet fine. Pound it in the mortar, and add the panada, which is soft crustless bread soaked in milk and cooked nearly dry, and pound again. Season, mix, and add the eggs one by one, while the pounding is continued. When thoroughly mixed, take a little piece in a spoon and drop into boiling salted water. The forcemeat may be softened with cream, or made firmer with another egg.

<page_number>202</page_number>

**SOUP.**

**SPRINGTIME SOUP.**

Large head lettuce,
½ pint peas,
Bunch parsley,
1 sliced onion.

Shred the lettuce and parsley, brown the onion in the butter, and put in a saucepan with the peas; cover with water, add the salt and pepper and cook till tender. Bring the stock to a boil; beat up the eggs with half a cup of the vegetable liquor and add with the hot stock to the other part just before taking from the fire.

**YEAL SOUP.**

A real knuckle,
3 quarts cold water,
¾ pound butter,
¼ cup rice, taplaca, or vermicelli.

Put the veal into a soup-kettle with the water and let it simmer 3 hours. Strain, add salt, pepper and the rice; boil slowly till tender. Rice will need 30, taplacos 40, and vermicelli 20 minutes cooking. Add the butter. Beat the eggs in the tureen with the cream, and pour the boiling soup slowly over them, stirring steadily.

**VEGETABLE SOUP—1.**

1 pint cooked tomatoes,
3 onions,
3 carrots,
3 turnips,
1 small cabbage,
Head celery.

Chop all the vegetables very fine and brown them, except the cabbage, in a little butter; put them into a kettle with the boiling water, herbs, salt and pepper, and in 30 minutes add the cabbage and tomatoes. Let simmer 2 hours and rub through a sieve. Rub the butter and flour together, add the cream and a little sugar, stir into the soup and boil 5 minutes. Serve with croutons or crisped crackers.

**VEGETABLE SOUP—2.**

6 potatoes,
4 onions,
3 carrots,
2 turnips,
Celery,

1 tablespoon butter,
1 tablespoon flour,
1 quart stock,
2 quarts stock,
Salt and pepper.

1 tablespoon butter,
3 eggs, yolks,
2 quarts stock,
Salt and pepper,

1 cup cream,

Bunch sweet herbs,
Pepper and salt,
2 tablespoons butter,
1 tablespoon flour,
1 cup sweet cream,
3 quarts boiling water,

2 tablespoons butter,
1 tablespoon flour,
1 quart stock,
2 quarts stock,
Salt and pepper.

SOUR.
<page_number>203</page_number>

Cut the vegetables into small pieces; put them into the melted butter and stir briskly 10 minutes. Then add the flour, mixed smoothly, and the milk. Stir till it boils, and cook the vegetables till tender. Season to taste, put through a colander and mix with the boiling stock. Let simmer an hour and serve with croutons.

VERMICELLI SOUP.

Break half a pound of vermicelli into pieces and cook 15 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and add to 2 quarts of rich boiling broth. Cook until tender, and serve. Sufficient for eight people.

WHITE SOUP.

This may be made by recipe for veal soup, omitting the rice, and one of the egg yolks, or by using 2 quarts chicken broth with 2 cups of cream, and yolks of 2 eggs. Beat the eggs and cream in the tureen and pour in slowly the boiling broth. Season and serve with croutons. Or, 3 tablespoons mashed potato may be rubbed to a paste with a little cold broth and stirred into the boiling broth. When well mixed pour over the cream in the tureen and add a few dice of veal or chicken.

<img>A man in a suit holding a spoon.</img>

<img>A wooden sign with the word "VEGETABLES" written on it.</img>
**VEGETABLES**

I F the home garden furnishes the supply of vegetables, gather them early in the morning with the dew on them, and keep them in a cold place till ready to use. If vegetables must be bought, get them as fresh as possible. Use freshly boiled hot soft water for cooking them. Beans and peas should lie an hour in cold water before snapping or shelling. Almost all vegetables are improved by lying in cold water before cooking, though the flavor of strong onions is modified by lying in warm, salted water. Old potatoes should lie over night in cold water, and they are improved by paring before cooking. Use salt in the proportion of a heaping tablespoon to 1 gallon of water. Beans, beets, corn, peas, squashes, tomatoes and turnips are improved by adding a little sugar before serving them. Drain vegetables in a colander as soon as cooked, and prepare immediately for the table.

Always add a little soda to the water in which greens are cooked, to preserve their color. A small piece of red pepper, a piece of bread tied in a cloth, or a bit of charcoal dropped into the water in which strong vegetables are cooking will absorb much of the disagreeable odor. The bread should be burned when taken from the water. It is much better to boil the meat by itself, and pour off part of the water if it is desirable to cook vegetables in the liquor instead of putting them in with the meat.

If watery potatoes must be cooked, add a small lump of lime to the water. For baking or boiling whole vegetables, carefully select those of uniform size, and boil them steadily but not furiously.

Old vegetables require nearly twice as much time for cooking as young ones. Many consider that potatoes are nicer boiled in two waters, but the second water must be boiling and added immediately after the first is drained off. All sliced vegetables should be cut across and not with the grain. All vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, and they require a longer time late than early in the season.

<page_number>221</page_number>

VEGETABLES.
<page_number>205</page_number>

In gathering asparagus, break the stalk, do not cut it off. Below the point at which it will break off it is woody fibre.

Cook asparagus, lima beans, beets, corn, sliced cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, okra, green peas, spinach and turnips, in boiling water; add salt to the water in which string beans, cabbage, onions, potatoes, and squashes are boiled. Cover all vegetables while cooking, except string beans, green peas, spinach, and tomatoes. If Irish or sweet potatoes are frozen, bake or boil them without thawing. Cold boiled potatoes should not be pared until needed for use.

ASPARAGUS.

Scrape off the coarse skin, tie in bunches, making the tips even, and cut off the woody ends, leaving them of equal length. Wash, and lay them in boiling water, slightly salted, and cook slowly 20 minutes, or till tender. Take out the asparagus carefully, lay it on thin slices of buttered toast, and remove the strings. Serve with melted butter, or cream sauce.

AMBUSHED ASPARAGUS.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>50 heads asparagus,</td>
    <td>4 well-beaten eggs,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>25 stale rolls or biscuit,</td>
    <td>1 pint milk,</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 tablespoons butter,</td>
    <td>Salt and pepper.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Cut off the tender tips of the asparagus, boil in salted water till tender, drain and chop fine. Take the biscuits, cut off the tops, scoop out the inside, and put them, with the tops, into the oven to dry. While drying, heat the milk, stir in the eggs, strain, and return to the fire. When it thickens, add the butter, salt, pepper, and asparagus. As it begins to boil, take from the fire, fill the biscuit with the mixture, fit on the tops carefully, set in the oven 3 minutes, arrange on a dish and serve.

ASPARGUS AND EGGS.

Cut tender asparagus in half-inch lengths, and boil in salted water 10 minutes, or till tender. Beat the whites and yolks of 6 eggs separately. Stir into the yolks 1 tablespoon each cream and melted butter with pepper and salt. Drain the asparagus; mix with the yolks of eggs; turn into a buttered saucepan; stir in the whites; heat through and serve. Garnish with croutons.

<page_number>206</page_number>
**VEGETABLES.**

**STEWED ASPARAGUS.**

Cut tender asparagus in inch lengths, wash, drain and cook rap-
idly in salted boiling water until tender. While it is cooking make
a cream sauce as follows: melt 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan
over the fire. When it bubbles shake in 1 tablespoon flour; mix
well and stir in 1 cup boiling milk, with salt and pepper. Add the
asparagus, well-drained, and a small piece of butter. Stir care-
fully, and serve very hot on pieces of buttered toast.

CREAM BAKED BEANS.
1 pint beans,
1 cup cream,
1 tablespoon sugar,
Salt.

Soak the beans over night. In the morning drain, cover with
boiling water and cook till tender. Put them in a bean pot or stone
jar, add the cream, salt and sugar, and bake in a moderate oven
till thoroughly baked. Take off the cover before they are done, in
order to brown them.

GRANDMOTHER'S BAKED BEANS.
1 quart dry beans,
2 tablespoons N. O. molasses,
1 pound bacon,
1 teaspoon soda.
Salt and pepper.

Wash the beans in hot water, drain, put in a kettle with the ba-
con and cover with boiling water; boil half an hour, add the soda,
stir well, cook 5 minutes, and skim into a bean pot. Season with
salt and pepper, add the molasses, score the rind of the bacon, cover
it with the beans, add boiling water till it stands on the top, and
place in a moderate oven. Bake steadily 6 hours, adding hot water
as they dry; after that time, the cover may be left off and the beans
baked as dry as liked. The secret of success lies in using hot water
throughout; cold water hardens and toughens beans. The bacon
is much nicer than pork, giving a delicate smoky flavor. This
recipe will make three quarts when done.

FRENCH STRING AND WAX BEANS.

The beans should snap when bent. String carefully, break off
the ends and cut in 2 or 3 pieces. Let them stand 15 minutes in
cold water. Drain; throw them into boiling salted water; cover
and boil half an hour; uncover, and let them cook steadily 1½
hours if the beans are light ones, and an hour longer if they are

VEGETABLES.
<page_number>207</page_number>

the green variety. If the beans are nearly dry do not drain them, but add butter and sweet cream, and more salt if needed, before serving them. Or, cook a little piece of salt pork with the beans. When done, take out the pork, drain off the water, and serve with a little cream or cream sauce. Green shelled beans may be cooked in the same way; they will be ready to serve in 30 or 45 minutes.

**DRY LIMA BEANS.**

Wash the beans in warm water, soak 3 hours and drain. Cover with boiling water, and cook steadily from 1½ to 2 hours, or till tender. Drain off the water, or if almost dry, without draining, add cream, butter rubbed with a little flour, salt and pepper. Take from the fire in 5 minutes and serve.

**SHELLED BEANS.**

Butter, cranberry, kidney, or lima beans may be used. Cover with cold water and soak half an hour. Throw the beans into boiling water; add a very little salt and cook from half an hour to 2 hours, according to variety and age. When tender, drain off the water, add cream, salt, pepper, and butter, and stew 10 or 15 minutes longer. Select only young beans for this dish.

**BEETS.**

Choose the small smooth roots. Wash carefully, but do not break or cut them, else the color and sweetness will escape while cooking. Cover with plenty of boiling water and cook them from 1 to 2 hours if the beets are young, if old they may require 4 or 5 hours. When tender, drop them into a pan of cold water and slip off the skin. Slice, unless very small, and serve with melted butter, or a hot sauce of vinegar, salt, and butter thickened with a little flour. Or, serve cold with salt and pepper, after slicing and letting them stand a few hours in vinegar. Or, bake them in a hot oven, turning them frequently with a knife to avoid breaking the skin. When done remove the skin, slice and serve with butter or a vinegar dressing.

**BAKED CABBAGE.**

<table>
<tr><td>1 tablespoon butter,</td><td>2 well-beaten eggs,</td></tr>
<tr><td>4 tablespoons cream,</td><td>Pepper and salt.</td></tr>
</table>

Chop finely a cold, boiled white cabbage that has been perfectly drained. Mix with the above ingredients, put into a buttered pud-

<page_number>203</page_number>

**VEGETABLES.**

ding dish, and bake in a moderate oven until a light brown. Serve hot.

**BOILED CABBAGE.**

Halve or quarter the cabbage and lay in cold salted water to draw out the little insects hiding in the leaves. Drain well, and put into a large quantity of boiling salted water; cover, and after cooking 10 minutes, change the water, but do not cover the second time. A summer cabbage will cook in 30 or 40 minutes, but it will re-quire from 1 to 1½ hours for the winter variety. Drain very dry in a colander. Dress with melted butter, pepper and salt, or a cream sauce. Or, halve the cabbage, remove the hard center, let stand 2 hours in cold water, tie in a cabbage net or a thin piece of muslin, and cook in boiling salted water. Or, shave finely, put in a net and cook as usual.

**CREAMED CABBAGE.**

Slice as for cold slaw, and cook 30 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, and put into a saucepan with 1 cup rich cream, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 teaspoon sugar, a little salt and pepper. Let simmer 3 minutes and serve. Or, put the cabbage in salted boil-ing water, cover closely, and cook 15 minutes. Pour off the water, add rich hot milk; and when tender, add butter and 1 teaspoon flour mixed with milk; season, and when it boils, serve.

**FRIED CABBAGE.**

Melt 1 or 2 tablespoons butter in a hot spider. When it bubbles throw in sliced boiled cabbage, and fry a light brown. If a tart taste is desired, add 2 tablespoons vinegar before taking from the fire.

**HEIDELBERG CABBAGE.**

<table>
<tr><td>2 small red cabbages,</td><td>3 tablespoons vinegar,</td></tr>
<tr><td>1 onion,</td><td>2 tablespoons butter,</td></tr>
<tr><td>4 cloves,</td><td>1 teaspoon salt.</td></tr>
</table>

The cabagges must be hard and firm. Halve, lay the flat side down, and cut across in thin slices. Put the butter, or drippings into a saucepan, and when hot add the vinegar and salt with the cabbage; stick the cloves into the onion, and bury it in the cab- age. Boil 2½ hours. If it becomes dry, and in danger of scorching, add a very little water.

VEGETABLES.
<page_number>209</page_number>

STUFFED CABBAGE.

Cut out the heart of a large fresh cabbage. Fill the vacancy with forcemeat balls of chicken or veal. Tie the cabbage firmly together, put into cheese-cloth and boil 2 hours in a covered kettle.

CARROTS.

Scrape them well, and let them lie in cold water half an hour. Cook them in boiling water until tender. Winter carrots, if whole, require from 1½ to 3 hours; summer carrots, from 30 to 45 minutes. Or, slice the carrots very thin and boil until tender.

CREAMED CARROTS.

<table>
<tr><td>1 cup cream,</td><td>1 tablespoon butter,</td></tr>
<tr><td>Salt and pepper,</td><td>1 tablespoon flour.</td></tr>
</table>

Make a cream sauce according to directions, and stir in the boiled carrots cut in dice. Stew gently 15 minutes, add a little chopped parsley and serve.

FRIED CARROTS.

Melt some butter in a hot spider. Cut cold boiled carrots into long thin strips. When the butter bubbles lay in the carrots, sprinkle with salt, pepper and sugar, and fry till the edges are brown and crisp. A little finely chopped parsley is an improvement.

LYONNAISE CARROTS.

Chop an onion very fine and fry in a tablespoon of butter and nice drippings. Add the boiled carrots, cut in small dice, with pepper and salt. Stir, fry them golden-brown, add a little finely chopped parsley, mix well and serve.

CAULIFLOWER.

Trim off the outside leaves, cut an X in the stalk, and put head downward into salt, or vinegar,and water for 30 minutes, that all insects may be drawn out. Drain well, tie loosely in a piece of cheese-cloth put into boiling salted water whitened with milk, and boil gently until tender, which will depend upon the size, one of medium size requiring 40 or 45 minutes. Lift it carefully by the cloth, drain thoroughly, put into a vegetable dish, pour over it a @see cream sauce, cover a few minutes, and serve.

<img>COOKS TIME TABLE</img>
<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th></th>
      <th>TIME OF COOKING</th>
      <th>TIME OF DIRECTION.</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Apples, sour, hard.</td>
      <td>Raw.</td>
      <td>2 m.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Apples, sweet and mellow.</td>
      <td>Raw.</td>
      <td>2 00.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Asparagus.</td>
      <td>Boiled.</td>
      <td>15 to 30 m.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beans, pod.</td>
      <td>Boiled.</td>
      <td>45 to 60 m.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beans, with green corn.</td>
      <td>Boiled.</td>
      <td>45 to 60 m.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beef...</td>
      <td>Fried.</td>
      <td>15 m. 2 30.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beefsteak.</td>
      <td>Fried.</td>
      <td>15 m. 2 45.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beefsteak.</td>
      <td>Fried.</td>
      <td>15 m. 2 45.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beef, corned.</td>
      <td>Fried.</td>
      <td>15 m. 2 45.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Bass, fresh.</td>
      <td>Fried.</td>
      <td>3 to 4 hrs. 2 45.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Bests, young.</td>
      <td>Boiled.</td>
      <td>30 to 45 m. 1 lb.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Beets old . . .</td>
      <td>Boiled.</td>
      <td>Forever</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Bread, crusty . . .</td>
      <td>Baked.</td>
      <td>3 15</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Bread, wheat . . .</td>
      <td>Baked.</td>
      <td>45 to 60 m. 3 30.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Butter..</td>
      <td>Melted.</td><br/>
      Raw.
    </tr><br/>
    <tr><th>Cabbage and vinegar:</th><th></th><th></th></tr><tr><th>Cabbage:</th><th>Boiled:</th><th>45 to 60 m. 2 00.</th></tr><tr><th>Cake, sponge:</th><th>Baked:</th><th>60 m. 4 00.</th></tr><tr><th>Carrots, young:</th><th>Baked:</th><th>30 to 45 m. 3 30.</th></tr><tr><th>Cauliflower:</th><th>Boiled:</th><th>30 to 40 m. 3 18</th></tr><tr><th>Cheese, old:</th><th>Raw:</th><th>3 30.</th></tr><tr><th>Cheese, fresh:</th><th>Fried:</th><th>30 to 45 m. 3 45</th></tr><tr><th>Codfish, dry and whole:</th><th>Boiled:</th><th>2 hrs. 2 00.</th></tr><tr><th>Custard, 1 qt.:</th><th>Baked:</th><th>30 to 40 m. 2 00</th></tr><tr><th>Duck, tail:</th><th>Rare roasted:</th><br/>Rare roasted.<br/>30 m. 4 00</tr><tr><th>Duck, wild:</th><br/>Dumpling:</br/>Eggs, hard:</br/>Eggs, soft:</br/>Eggs:</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/>Eggs,</br/></table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

<table border="1">
<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<tr style="background-color: #f2f2f2;">
<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . .</table>

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<td>Eggplant, domestic . . ..

COOK'S TIME TABLE—CONTINUED.
<page_number>211</page_number>

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <td></td>
      <td>TIME OF COOKING.</td>
      <td>TIME OF DIGESTION.</td>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Oysters</td>
      <td>Roasted,</td>
      <td>3 to 5 m.</td>
      <td>H. M.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Oysters</td>
      <td>Sweated,</td>
      <td>3 to 5 m.</td>
      <td>3 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Parsnips</td>
      <td>Boiled,</td>
      <td>30 to 45 m.</td>
      <td>2 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Pig's feet</td>
      <td>Bolied,</td>
      <td>1 hr.</td>
      <td>1 hr.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Pork</td>
      <td>Roast,</td>
      <td>15 m.</td>
      <td>5 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Pork, ham</td>
      <td>Broiled,</td>
      <td>8 to 6 hrs.</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Pork</td>
      <td>Fried,</td>
      <td></td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Potatoes</td>
      <td>Boiled,</td>
      <td>30 m.</td>
      <td>3 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Potatoes</td>
      <td>Boiled,</td>
      <td>30 to 45 m.</td>
      <td>3 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Potatoes</td>
      <td>Boiled,</td>
      <td>30 to 45 m.</td>
      <td>2 hrs.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Rice</td>
      <td>Bolied,</td>
      <td>15 m.</td>
      <td>1 hr.</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Salmon, fresh</td>
      <td>Bolied,</td>
      <td>10 m.</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Sausage</td>
      <td>Fried,</td>
      <td>15 m.</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Soup, chicken</td>
      <td>Bolied,</td>
      <td>3 to 4 hrs.</td>
      <td></td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Soup, beef, mustard</td><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><<br/><img>A sand timer with three compartments filled with different amounts of sand, showing the passage of time. The top compartment is almost empty, the middle one is full, and the bottom one is nearly empty. The sand is moving from the top to the bottom, indicating the passage of time. The image is a simple illustration of a sand timer, often used in educational materials to demonstrate the concept of time. It is a common symbol in various cultures and has been used for centuries to measure time. The sand timer is typically made of wood or metal and has three compartments that hold sand. The top compartment is usually larger than the other two and is often covered by a lid. As time passes, the sand moves from the top compartment to the bottom one, creating a visual representation of time passing. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as a decorative item in homes and offices. The sand timer is a simple but effective way to measure time and has been used for centuries in various cultures around the world. It is a popular choice for those who want a practical and visually appealing way to measure time. The sand timer is often used in schools and homes as a teaching tool to help children understand the concept of time. It can also be used as

<table>
  <tr>
    <td colspan="3">TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>fb</td>
    <td>oz.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart sifted flour—16 ounces</td>
    <td>Equals</td>
    <td>1</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart sifted Indian meal</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>4</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart powdered sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>7</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart granulated sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>9</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart coffee "A" sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>8</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 quart best brown sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>10</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint of milk</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>10</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>10 medium-sized eggs</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>11</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>4 cups sifted flour</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>11</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups sifted flour</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>12</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2 cups granulated sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>13</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>2½ cups best brown sugar</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>14</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Butter size of one egg</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>2</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 tablespoon of water, heaped</td>
    <td></td>
    <td>3</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>1 pint of water or fruit juice.</td><span style="font-style: italic;">AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">dry.</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">AWEIGHTS OF ARTICLES.</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">APPLES, DRIED, BUSHEL, 25 POUNDS.</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">BEET, FIRKIN,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">PORK, BARREL,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">BEANS, BUSHEL,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">BUTTER, FIRKIN,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">BUTTER,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">PEACHES, DRIED, BUSHEL,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">FISH, BARREL,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">QUINTAL,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">APPLES, DRIED, BUSHEL, 25 POUNDS.</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Beef, firkin,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Pork, barrel,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Beans, bushel,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Butter, firkin,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Butter,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Peaches, dried, bushel,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Fish, barrel,</span><br><span style="font-style: italic;">Quintal,</span></th><th colspan="2">60 drops=1 teaspoon;</th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></th></table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">AWEIGHTS OF ARTICLES.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Flour, barrel, net, 166 pounds.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Honey, barrel, 12 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Molasses, hhd., 130 to 150 gallons.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Salt, barrel, 3½ bushels.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Sugar, barrel, 300 to 350 pounds.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Soap, barrel, 256 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea box, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border="1">
<tr align="center">
<td colspan="2">Tea chest, chest, 60 to 84 cwt.</table>

<table border "border" cellspacing = "0" cellpadding = "0" width = "50%" height = "50%">
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<watermark>A TABLE OF WEIGTHS AND MEASURES</watermark>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<img src = "/images/table_of_weights_and_measures.png" alt = "Table of Weights and Measures" width = "300" height = "300"></img>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;<br>&amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;</div><!-- left_column_title -->
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<img>A black and white illustration of a man with a beard, wearing a hat, standing in front of a building with a clock tower. The man appears to be looking at something off-screen.</img>
FOODS.

**HYGIENIC AND SCIENTIFIC**

At this age of applied science it has become the duty of every housewife to know something of the food with which she supplies her household. Most persons have had some vague ideas of the relative values of different foods, and of the changes they undergo in cooking. These theories they have probably learned from their mothers, gleaned from their neighbors, or read in some paper. Perhaps they have accepted them as facts, but at some time or other they read or hear something that contradicts them and then they are at a loss to know what to believe or what not to believe. At some time they have been convinced that people ate too much, at another, that meat was the all-strengthener, or they may have been afflicted with the vegetarian fad. Surely they would not have pinned their faith to one-sided diets if they had rightly comprehended the main facts of nutrition.

In the following pages an effort has been made to present something of the facts in regard to the composition of food, the part the different kinds of foods take in the nutrition of the body, together with something of the change that is effected by cooking and the process of digestion.

Foods are classified by all leading authorities, excluding the oxygen we breathe, into five great classes.

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>1. Water,</td>
    <td>2. Proteids,</td>
    <td>3. Fats,</td>
    <td>4. Carbohydrates,</td>
    <td>5. Salts or mineral constituents.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

**WATER.**

Water, in one sense is not a food, but it fills one of the most important offices in the nutrition of the body. It constitutes about three-fourths of the weight of the body. It is found in the mus-

<page_number>213</page_number>

<page_number>214</page_number>
FOODS.

cles and bones, but abounds in the blood and secretions. It holds in solution the important material they contain, and by giving the necessary fluidity to the blood transports this material to the different parts of the body and conveys away that which has fulfilled its mission.

Water is also the great regulator of heat, and by its evaporation reduces any excessive temperature of the body.

Besides the water we take in the form of beverages, we obtain some in all of our solid food. The amount contained in them varies from 1 to 98 per cent. The vegetables, such as cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, cucumbers, onions, parsnips, squash, tomatoes and turnips, and also the different fruits, are mostly water.

PROTEIDS.

The proteids are also known as albuminous foods, and nitrogenous or flesh-forming foods. The latter is the most significant and is so-called because this class of foods contains a large proportion of the element nitrogen.

We find nitrogen in our muscles and muscular tissues. We also find it the product of their decomposition. Hence, if the wear of these tissues causes the liberation of nitrogenous compounds, this loss must be replaced by some food that contains nitrogen. The fats and carbohydrates do not. Besides this function, the proteids are considered as the stimulating foods, or those that impart a speed and energy to the organs above that necessary to perfect nutrition.

The nitrogenous foods are derived from both the animal and vegetable kingdoms and are found in eggs, lean meat, fish, milk, cheese, leguminous plants and the cereals. The different protein principle of each is known as albumen, fibrine, casein and gluten.

The digestion of this class of foods is not well known. In the mouth they should be finely comminuted, as the chemical action is rapid in proportion to the fineness of division. The first chemical change takes place in the stomach, and the agents are pepsin and the acid of the gastric juice. The two together render the nitrogenous substance soluble and capable of passing through a membrane.

FOODS.
<page_number>215</page_number>

EGGS.

The protoid of the egg is known as albumen, from albus, meaning white. Eggs contain 73.67 per cent water, 12.55 per cent albumen and 12.11 per cent fat. They are considered by some physiologists to be the most easily digested of this class of foods. Physicians say that they are as digestible raw as cooked.

The raw white of an egg is a colorless, semi-liquid and visous substance, soluble in cold water. If we place some in a glass tube with a thermometer and heat it, we will observe the following changes. When the temperature of 134° is reached white fibers appear; at 160° the whole mass becomes white and quite opaque. It is now coagulated, and in this condition is a tender, delicate and jelly-like substance, and is easily digestible. Heated to 212° it shrinks and becomes hard. If it be subjected to a higher temperature it becomes a horny and tough substance quite indigestible.

This experiment teaches a great deal that is little understood. It shows that the cooking temperature of albumen is not 212°, the boiling point of water, but 160°, and accounts for the indigestibility of fried and hard-boiled eggs.

MEAT.

Under this head is included the flesh of all animals used for food: beef, veal, mutton, pork, poultry and game.

In the eating of animal flesh, man takes advantage of the work done by the animal in the preparation of vegetable food. If we examine a piece of lean meat we find that the red part is made up, first, of very tiny, sausage-like bags, or muscle fibers, as they are called, and in these are contained the precious protoid flavors, salts, and water, all mixed together; second, the muscle fibers are bound together by a connective tissue; third, floating in the juices between the fibers and tissues is more protoid.

By analysis of beef that is medium fat, we find it is 72.25 per cent water, 21.93 per cent protein, and 5.19 per cent fat. The lean of well-fatted animals contains as much as 20 per cent less water. One fact worthy of mention is that while the price of the tender parts of the animal is high, they contain no more nutri-

<page_number>216</page_number>
FOODS.

ment than the cheaper cuts. Indeed, the price seems to be in ex-
act inverse ratio to the amount of nutrient contained.

In cooking meat the connective tissue should be softened and
loosened so that the little bundles of fiber, which contain the nutri-
ment, may fall apart easily when brought in contact with the fork
or teeth; the albumen and fibrine should be coagulated, not horn-
ified. By cooking a more agreeable flavor is developed.

The albumen of the meat is identical with that of the egg. If
lean meat is chopped fine and allowed to stand in cold water an
hour, we will find that the water has become red. The water has
dissolved the albumen, coloring matter, and flavors. If this liquid
be heated, the albumen will coagulate and at a temperature below
the boiling point.

It should be recognized in the different methods of cooking meat
that there are just three different results to be obtained: first, to
retain all the nutriment in meat, as in broiling, roasting, frying,
and boiling; second, to extract it into the water, as in soups and
meat teas; third, to have it partly in the meat and partly in the
water, as in stews.

**BROILING.**

True broiling is cooking directly over red-hot, glowing coals.
The meat is cooked by radiant heat, and it is the hottest form of
cooking. The object to be obtained is to keep the juices within
the meat. How is it to be accomplished? We have seen that heat
coagulates albumen. Have the meat cut in a slice, from an inch to
an inch and a half in thickness, and placed in a broiler. Put it
directly over the coals and very near to them. The albumen on
the outside is instantly seared, and thus hardened presents a bar-
rier through which the juices cannot escape. Before they have an
opportunity of rising and passing out from the other side, we turn
the meat and the second side is treated to the same process.

Now, by allowing the meat to remain a few minutes over the
coals the water inside is heated, to 180°. The heat of the water
coagulates the albumen, and the combined presence of liquid and
heat softens the connective tissues. Some of the water is changed
to steam and this gives the meat a puffed appearance. When these

FOODS.
<page_number>217</page_number>

three things are accomplished, the meat is cooked, and when eaten it is found to be juicy, tender, and well-flavored. One other thing has been done, namely, the browning of the surface. This is due, probably, to the caramelizing of the albumen, and it is found to possess an entirely different flavor, but one that is very agreeable.

Had the cooking of the steak been prolonged, the result would have been an ill-cooked specimen, tough, desiccated, shriveled and tasteless, due to the evaporation of the juices, the loss of the volatile flavors, and the consequent hardening of the albumen and tissue.

As broiling is a very quick method of cooking, only meat of very tender fiber is suitable, as there is neither time nor moisture to soften that which is tough.

Are not these facts forcible enough to settle the question as to whether meat is more digestible rare than well done? The prejudice against rare-done meat is largely due to an erroneous idea of what is meant by that expression. Order a rare-cooked steak at any restaurant or hotel, and the waiter will set before you one that is raw in the inside. This is a raw steak and not a rare one. A rare steak is pink throughout, and not purple anywhere.

ROASTING.

Roasting is identical with broiling, except that we have the meat in a cubical form, and a smaller surface in proportion to the weight. The surface may be seared by a hot oven, in a frying pan, or by a bath in hot fat.

BOILING.

As in boiling we have additional moisture, and a longer time may be used in the cooking, meat of a tougher fiber may be appropriately cooked by this method. The imprisonment of the juices is accomplished by immersing the meat in the boiling water, which coagulates on the outside. After boiling for 10 minutes, the temperature should be lowered to $180^\circ$ as we do not wish the inside temperature to be higher than that. More or less of the nutriment finds its way into the water, consequently this liquid should be utilized.

While on the subject of boiling, it will not be out of place to

<page_number>218</page_number>
FOODS.

say something in regard to a fact which is not practically under-
stood by cooks. We have learned by the preceding experiment
that the cooking point of meat is not the boiling point of water.
But many foods, especially vegetables, are best cooked at the boil-
ing temperature. If a thermometer be placed in water while be-
ing heated, the mercury will steadily rise until the water is boil-
ing, or 212° is reached, when it will become stationary and remain
so although much additional heat be applied, and the water be
made to boil violently. If this fact were understood and observed,
much precious fuel might be saved. When the boiling point is
once reached, very little heat is needed to keep it at this point.
All the surplus heat is spent in changing the water to steam. For
all ordinary cooking, gently boiling water is as effective as if
it boils rapidly.

FRYING.

In frying, which is properly cooking by immersion in hot fat,
the cooking medium is fat, instead of water as in boiling. The
temperature of the fat should be about 385°. As any escape of
water into the hot fat causes great commotion, an additional pre-
caution is taken by enveloping the meat or food to be fried, in a
coating of crumbs, and eggs, or in the case of mixtures, as dough-
nuts, the egg is added to the mixture itself. This also prevents
the food from absorbing fat. The reason of this is obvious.

SOUP-MAKING.

In soup-making, a contrary result is to be obtained from that of
boiling and roasting. The juices are to be transferred to the
water. Meat that is so tough and coarse as to be undesirable for
cooking by any other method, may be utilized by this one. We
have seen that the juices and albumen of meat are readily soluble
in cold water, and this principle should be applied by allowing the
meat to stand in cold water for at least an hour, and in order that
more surface be exposed to its action the meat should be cut into
small pieces. It may then be heated to a temperature of 200°,
that degree being necessary to dissolve the gelatine of the bones.
The skimming and clearing of soups should be avoided if a nutri-

FOODS.
<page_number>219</page_number>

tious soup is desired, for by so doing we remove the coagulated albumen.

STEWING.

In stewing we eat both the meat and broth. It is a desirable method for cooking the tougher and cheaper parts of meat. Braising and pot-roasting are forms of stewing, and are methods with which every housekeeper should be familiar if economy is an item of consideration.

FISH.

Fish, because of its abundance, cheapness, and wholesomeness, is an invaluable article of food. It contains more water and less solid material than meat, is rich in nitrogen, and has an alkaline taste.

Red-blooded fish, as salmon, mackerel, and blue fish, have the oil distributed through the body, while the white fish, as cod, haddock, halibut and flounder, have it in the liver. The latter fish is very digestible when perfectly fresh. Fresh fish may be told by the fullness of the eye and the firmness of the flesh.

CHEESE.

Cheese is the coagulated casein of milk, together with some fat and sugar. The casein, the albumen of milk, is coagulated by an acid obtained from rennet. By allowing the cheese to ripen, a ferment is developed. The presence of this ferment is the reason that a small quantity taken with food aids in digestion.

Milk cheese contains 48.02 per cent. water, 32.65 per cent. pro- teid, 8.41 per cent. fat, and 6.80 per cent. sugar. Comparing this analysis with that of meat, we find it to be much richer in protides. This, together with its low price, makes it a valuable substitute for the more expensive meat. It is much used as such in many countries of Europe. It is not considered easy of digestion.

GELATINE.

Gelatine is a substance obtained from the bones, the gelatinous tissues of animal flesh, and from certain parts of fishes.

If its nutritive value could be estimated by the nitrogen it contains, it would, indeed, rank high. Its value as a food, and the part it performs in nutrition, is not fully understood. Exagger-

220
FOODS.

ated ideas of its value have been entertained. Our grandmothers believed it to be highly nutritious, prepared it in the form of jellies for invalids, and estimated the value of their soaps by the consistency of the jelly they formed on cooling, which thickness is due to the gelatine they contain. No doubt many a victim has died of starvation by the reliance of nurses upon this theory.

It has been demonstrated that gelatine alone cannot sustain life, but it is now believed that if taken in conjunction with other food it is of some worth. Its inability to sustain life may be accounted for by the fact that it is not changed in digestion, so that it will pass through a membrane readily, and therefore only a small portion can pass into the circulation. Nevertheless it is not unwholesome, and is a convenient vehicle for conveying food, particularly to invalids.

**LEGUMINOUS FOODS.**

Under this head are peas, beans, and lentils. Beans contain 14.84 per cent. water, 23.66 per cent. proteins, 1.63 per cent. fat, 49.25 per cent. starch, and 7.47 per cent. wooly fiber. Peas contain 14.31 per cent. water, 22.63 per cent. proteins, 1.72 per cent. fat, 53.24 per cent. starch, and 5.45 per cent. of wooly fiber.

Observe the remarkable percentage of proteins they contain. The legumes are less stimulating and palatable than meat, but the protein needs of the body can be supplied by them. One of the best ways of serving them is in the form of a soup, as then the hull is entirely removed.

**CEREALS.**

Under this head are included corn, wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat, and rice. The following is the analysis:

<table>
<thead>
<tr>
<th>WATER</th>
<th>PBOTEID</th>
<th>FAT</th>
<th>SUGAR</th>
<th>STARCH</th>
<th>WOODY</th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td>per ct.</td>
<td>per ct.</td>
<td>per ct.</td>
<td>per ct.</td>
<td>per ct.</td>
<td>per ct.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Wheat,</td>
<td>13.56</td>
<td>12.42</td>
<td>1.70</td>
<td>1.44</td>
<td>66.45</td>
<td>2.66</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rye,</td>
<td>15.26</td>
<td>11.43</td>
<td>1.71</td>
<td>.96</td>
<td>66.86</td>
<td>2.01</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Barley,</td>
<td>13.78</td>
<td>11.16</td>
<td>2.12</td>
<td>...</td>
<td>65.51</td>
<td>4.80</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Oats,</td>
<td>12.92</td>
<td>11.73</td>
<td>6.04</td>
<td>2.92</td>
<td>53.21</td>
<td>10.83</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Maize,</td>
<td>13.88</td>
<td>10.03</td>
<td>476</td>
<td>4.59</td>
<td>62.19</td>
<td>2.84</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Rice,</td>
<td>14.41</td>
<td>6.94</td>
<td>.51</td>
<td>.</td>
<td>.776.</td>
<td>.08</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
<tfoot>
<tr><td colspan="7">Too much cannot be said in favor of these grains, particularly of...</td></tr></tfoot></table>

Too much cannot be said in favor of these grains, particularly of

FOODS.
<page_number>221</page_number>

corn, wheat, and oats. They contain all the elements necessary for the complete nutrition of the body, and in wheat they are in the correct proportions. Corn and oats contain an excess of fat. The protelids of these grains are known as gluten. Their low price places them within the reach of all. They are prepared as a breakfast food and are ground as meat and flour.

CARBOHYDRATES.

This third great division of foods includes the starches and sugars. They, together with the fats, are classed as the carbonaceous foods, because they contain a large proportion of the element carbon. The carbohydrates contain carbon, and the elements of water, hydrogen and oxygen, not as water, but in the same proportion as water, namely, two parts of hydrogen to one of oxygen. The carbonaceous foods are the great heat-producing foods, and just as the carbon and hydrogen of fuel unite with the oxygen of the air and produce heat, so the carbon and hydrogen of our food unite with the oxygen of the air we breathe and produce the heat of our bodies. Besides this office the carbohydrates are probably the great source of energy, and a portion of them may be deposited in the body as fat. They are of vegetable origin.

STARCHES.

Starch is a white, glistening powder, insoluble in cold water, and when heated with water, swells, and the starch grains burst, forming a thick gummy solution. When cool it stiffens into a pasty mass. Starch is eaten chiefly in the form of arrowroot, tapioca, sago, rice, potatoes, cereals, and the legumes. But from whatever source derived, the chemical composition is the same. $C_6H_{10}O_5$. The starches are the cheapest of the food constituents, and are therefore apt to be in excess. They give the necessary bulk to our food.

Starch, when heated to a high temperature, is changed to dextrine, which does not differ from starch in chemical composition. Dextrine is a brittle solid and soluble in cold water. It has an agreeable, sweet flavor. It is produced in small quantities in the crust in the baking of bread and in the making of toast. In digestion the starch is changed to glucose. This is accomplished by

<page_number>222</page_number>
FOODS.

the heat of the body and the action of the saliva of the mouth and the pancreatic juice in the intestines.

**SUGARS.**

The sugars are a more expensive form of heat-producers, and are used chiefly for their flavoring qualities. They are closely related to the starches and nearly resemble them in chemical composition. They are known by their sweet taste and are soluble in cold water and are capable of breaking up into alcohol and carbon dioxide. They are valuable for their preserving qualities.

There are different varieties of sugar, but the most important to us are cane sugar or sucrose, and grape sugar or glucose. Sucrose, $C_{12}H_{22}O_{11}$, is common sugar-and is obtained from the sugar cane, sugar beet, and rock maple. It is the sweetest of all the sugars, and is soluble in one-third of its weight of water. Sucrose, when boiled in contact with air, and especially if an acid be present, becomes changed into two kinds of sugar: dextrose $C_6H_{12}O_6$, identical with glucose and levulose, $C_6H_{12}O_7$. Thus their chemical composition is identical. Both kinds are often called glucose.

Glucose is found in grapes and is present in the sacs of flowers; it is the source of honey. Glucose can be manufactured from all kinds of starch and from cellulose, by the action of acids. It is quite an easy matter to change a cotton handkerchief into more than its own weight of sugar. Glucose has one-third less sweetening power than sucrose, and this is the reason that when sugar is boiled with acid fruits it becomes less sweet.

The changes that sugar undergoes in digestion are not fully understood, yet it is certain that sucrose is not absorbed, as such, but is converted into glucose before it is assimilated. This change is probably effected by the acid of the gastric juice.

**FATS.**

This class of food is known to the housewife as butter, cream, salad oil, suet andlard. It is taken in the fat of meat, the oil of fish, in eggs, in the cereals and legumes. Fats are lighter than water and insoluble in it, but soluble in ether. They are of animal and vegetable origin. In whatever form they are known they are

FOODS.
<page_number>223</page_number>

composed of but three different fats, olein, stearin, and palmatin or margarin.

Olein is colorless and liquid above the freezing point. It is the principal fat of olive oil, but is found in the more solid fats to a greater or less degree. The solidity and liquidity of the different fats depend upon the proportion of olein they contain.

Stearin is a solid fat and remains so at quite a high temperature. Stearin is the chief fat of mutton, and it is this peculiarity of stearin that causes the mouth to become coated with fat when eating a mutton chop. It is also a constituent of suet. Palmatin resembles stearin, but is liquid at a lower temperature. It is found in butter.

These fats are compounds of the fatty acids, olein, stearin, and palmatin, with glycerine. They are called acids, not because they have a sour taste, but because they unite with a base as acids do. Glycerine, the base, is the sweet principle of oil. By further analysis we find that the fats are compounds of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. They contain a larger proportion of carbon and oxygen to hydrogen than the hydro-carbons do. The difference in the taste of the different fats is due principally to the flavoring they contain. This, almost alone, makes the difference in their prices.

The digestibility of the different fats depends mainly upon the readiness with which they liquify. We might be able to digest beeswax if it would become liquid at the temperature of our bodies. Cream is the most easily digested and butter follows next. The fats are unaffected by the juices of the mouth and stomach. In the intestines they are emulsified by the admixture of the bile, and can then pass through a membrane into the circulation.

Besides the value of fats as heat-producers, for which purpose they excel the starches and sugars, they are deposited as adipose tissue, aid in the lubrication of the muscles, and, without doubt, are a source of energy.

YEAST.

Yeast is a plant of the fungus growth. It is found to consist of numberless minute rounded cells. Each little cell consists of an enveloping membrane containing a liquid. They grow by bud-

<page_number>224</page_number>
FOODS.

ding and division. When they are provided with suitable food,
moisture and warmth they grow very rapidly. Rye and grapes are
congenial foods, and also sugar or something that can be changed
into sugar. It is supposed that these yeast germs are present in
the air. They are killed by the boiling and freezing temperatures.
BREAD.

The process by which the present bread is made light and porous
is known as the alcoholic fermentation. Yeast is the agent used
to accomplish this. In the mixing of the dough each little grain
of flour is surrounded by a film of water and the yeast plants are
scattered throughout the mass. Now, the yeast plants have food
in the starch and the sugar; moisture, in the water or milk, and
warmth, as the dough should have a temperature of about 75°.
They soon begin to grow. The starch of the flour is changed to
glucose.
$$C_6H_{10}O_5 + H_2O + ferment = C_6H_{14}O_8$$
starch, water, glucose.

This glucose is quickly changed into alcohol and carbon di-oxide.
$$C_6H_{10}O_4 = \left\{ \begin{array}{l} {2C_3H_8O alcohol,} \\ {and} \\ {2CO_2 carbon di-oxide.} \end{array}\right.$$

Carbon di-oxide is a gas and is commonly known as carbonic acid gas. It is the evolution of this gas that is set free from all parts of the dough which causes it to rise and increase in bulk.
In the baking of a loaf of bread this gas is expanded and partially driven out by the heat. The starch cells are ruptured; the cells which contain the gas are hardened; the yeast plant is killed; the alcohol is evaporated, and some of the starch of the crust, being heated to a higher temperature, is changed to dextrine. The tem-
perature of the inside of the loaf does not exceed 212°.

<img>A diagram showing a bird perched on a branch.</img>

# EVERY WOMAN'S LIBRARY

Edited by Margaret E. Sangster, Dr. Emma E. Walker, Hamilton W. Mabie and others.

**Covers Every Phase of Woman's Realm**

No book ever published contains so much value to the up-to-date woman as this set of EVERY WOMAN'S LIBRARY. Each volume is devoted to one subject, viz., Beauty and Health, Etiquette, Entertaining, Housekeeping, Cooking, Reading and Study, Home Life and Ways of earning money; and is written by the leading authorities on women's subjects.

There are seven volumes in the set, and each volume is devoted to one subject as follows:

<table>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. I</td>
    <td>Beauty and Health, by Dr Emma E. Walker</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. II</td>
    <td>Etiquette, by Eleanor B. Clapp</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. III</td>
    <td>Entertainments and Games, by Clara E. Laughlin.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. IV</td>
    <td>House and Housekeeping, by Mary Elizabeth Carter.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. V</td>
    <td>Home and Home Study, by Hamilton W. Mabie and Henry van Dyke.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. VI</td>
    <td>Ideal Home Life, by Margaret E. Sangster and Marion Harland.</td>
  </tr>
  <tr>
    <td>Vol. VII</td>
    <td>Woman's Ways of Earning Money, by Cynthia Westover Alden.</td>
  </tr>
</table>

Each volume is bound in uniform pea green cloth, neatly stamped design. Printed in good sized readable type on good quality paper. Each volume is 4 x 6 inches and contains nearly 500 pages. Each set of volumes packed in a box, sent prepaid for $2.00 or given free for securing only 6 yearly subscriptions for EVERY WOMAN'S MAGAZINE at 50 cents each.

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CONTENTS

<table>
  <thead>
    <tr>
      <th></th>
      <th>PAGE</th>
    </tr>
  </thead>
  <tbody>
    <tr>
      <td>Bread</td>
      <td>7</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Breakfast and Tea Cakes</td>
      <td>27</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Crullers and Doughnuts</td>
      <td>67</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Cake</td>
      <td>68</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Cookies and Jumbles</td>
      <td>71</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Confectionery</td>
      <td>76</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Cook's Time Table</td>
      <td>209</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Desserts</td>
      <td>85</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Drinks</td>
      <td>108</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Eggs</td>
      <td>112</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Fish</td>
      <td>118</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Fruits</td>
      <td>124</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Fruit Sauces</td>
      <td>156</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Fillings for Layer Cake</td>
      <td>67</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Foods—Hygienic and Scientific</td>
      <td>212</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Griddle Cakes</td>
      <td>56</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Ginger Bread.</td>
      <td>75</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Ginger Snaps</td>
      <td>74</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>How to Carve Meat</td>
      <td>184</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Icing</td>
      <td>68</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Ice Cream and Ices</td>
      <td>161</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Meata</td>
      <td>167</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Nut Wafers</td>
      <td>75</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Pastry</td>
      <td>97</td>
    </tr>
    <tr>
      <td>Puddings.</td><br/>
      Pudding Sauces<br/>
      Relishes<br/>
      Salads<br/>
      Soups<br/>
Table of weights and Measures<br/>
Toasts<br/>
Vegetables
<td>104<br/>
105<br/>
186<br/>
189<br/>
196<br/>
211<br/>
93<br/>
203
<td></table>

<page_number>203</page_number>

<img>A blank page with a faint vertical line on the left side.</img>

DEC 13 1911

One copy del. to Cat. Div.

DHC 13 1912

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

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