| Eucaly--Take equal parts of spirits of turpentine," | touch the wound with tincture of benzoin and rub|
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frequently will produce a cold. The first symptoms are shivering and evident languor, succeeded by a hot, dry nose, with a thin discharge at first, but which gradually thickens. If the disease proceeds, a hot skin, dullness about the eyes, with a general feeling of oppression, and a dry cough, are the next symptoms. In more or less more discharge from the nose, sometimes accompanied with sneezing; and if severe, and the bronchial tube be affected, a cough will be the result. It is pretty well understood, when applied to ourselves, that a cold unwarred for is most dangerous.
In puppies the symptoms of common cold may be mistaken for those of dis-
temper; and in older dogs, if unchecked and uncared for, it is likely to lead to death. In this case, therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the first appearance of a deviation from health.
In this direction, minutely of the old proverb that "a stitch in time saves nine," such as a cast placed upon the dog, as previously advised under BONCHIUTZ. Some
perish without any treatment whatever; others recover after a few days' rest;
but others require more attention. If, conjointly with other symptoms mentioned,
there be a scuritine of urine and costive howls, give a dose of apert-
ment medicin. Followed by a few doses of Fever Mixture.
| Sweet spirit of nitre |
1 dram |
| Milderous spirit |
4i. ounce |
| Wine of antimony. |
½ ounce |
| Water |
1 dram |
| Dose for 10 to 50 lb. dog, one tablespoonful every four hours in a little
gruel. Smaller or younger dogs a dessertspoonful. |
8 ounces |
Remove any discharge from the eyes with warm water. If they are inflamed,
bathe with the following lotion: Boracid acid, powder, i.cer.; distilled water to
6oz. To allow the animal to breathe freely the nose must be bathed; this will tend
to prevent the formation of mucus. During convalescence the following tonic is
useful: Epsom's syrup, half a pint; add two ounces of water; give three times daily,
sometimes twice a day after food. Unless the cold has engendered some more
dangerous complaint, this treatment will be all that is required. If the cough be
severe, give Cough Cure, which is very a good one. See Cough.
Coriza is the name given to a common cold when confined to the nose and eyes,
and characterized by a running at the nose and watering eyes. I have found the
following remedy quite effective: Take half an ounce of tincture of quinine; sprinkle it freely with vinegar of sassafras, and hold it to the dog's nose, so that he
inhales the fumes. Or half fill an upright jar or jug of suitable size with bran,
and sprinkle it over it. A tablespoonful of vinegar is added to it. A tablespoonful of
vinegar and carabolic acid (British Pharmacopoeia). Mix, and hold the dog's
nose over it. This quantity is to double handful of bran in a quart or three-pint
jar if used on man. My Rye Lotion No. 2 would be a good thing to use in eyes in this case.
The following very able article and treatise on Catarrh was written especially for this book, by DENT, so favorably known as veterinarian to the American Field.
**CATARRH.—Dogs that are badly kennelled, exposed to cold winds, and those that have lately had distemper or a severe cold are subject to an inflammation of**
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying down with its head resting on its paws.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
the membranes of the nostrils and air passage, and a more or less thick discharge of mucus purulent matter from the nose, constituting what is commonly known as catarrh. The disease is disgusting and annoying in the extreme and has a very debilitating effect upon the patient's general health. As the inflammation spreads to the bones of the head, the discharge becomes unendurable offensive and the breathing is seriously interfered with. The longer the disease is neglected the worse it becomes.
TREATMENT.—Remove all discharge from the nostrils by frequent bathing with a saturated solution of boracic acid, as the discharge irritates the external parts and is liable to cause eczema. Apply the oxide of zinc or iodofor antitoxin to the parts. With a small syringe a small quantity of the following solution should be injected into each nostril every day:
Sulphate of zinc.................................................. 8 grains
Boric acid........................................................... 30 grains
Glycerine............................................................. 1 ounce
Water................................................................. 1 ounce
An ordinary atomizer or spray can be used to good advantage several times a day, either Listerine or a spray after the following formula:
Sodal. bibarot...................................................... 1 dram
Sodal. carb......................................................... 1 dram
Add carbolic....................................................... 6 grains
Sulph. of morphine.............................................. 5 grains
Sulph. of morphine.............................................. 10 grains
Glycerine............................................................. 1 ounce
Distilled water...................................................... 1 ounce
Keep the dog in warm comfortable quarters and pay particular attention to his diet. If there is any tendency to scantiness of urine or constiveness, give 20 drops of carnara sagrada in a teaspoonful of olive oil. Feed anything he will eat and give a tablespoonful of cod liver oil ad nauseam or Follows' syrup of Hypophosphites four times daily. For dogs suffering from 20 drops of the syrup of iodide of iron. If there is much discharge from the eyes wash them several times a day with a saturated solution of boracic acid.
CHEST-FOUNDER.—See KENNEL-AMENES.
COLIC.—This subject is very completely covered by Dabell.
Nearly all domestic animals are subject to attacks of colic, or grieses, as it is more popularly called, but this condition is in the subject of the disease.
In the dog, puppies are especially liable to it, but it attacks dogs of all ages, and, if not promptly attended to and properly treated, is very liable to end in inflammation of the intestines, which may prove fatal. The symptoms are that the dog lies down, though happily not its dangerous ones, colic resembles. One very important point of distinction is that whereas inflammation comes on gradually, and feverishness with hot dry nose, etc., always exist as premonitory symptoms, colic comes on suddenly, without any previous symptoms whatever. It begins with violent pain in the region of the coat of the bowels, causing such pain that he gives voice to a low moan, which is afterward changed to a prolonged howl, as the paroxysms of pain increase in frequency and severity. In colic, too, the nose and mouth are cool, and there is no offensive breath. As in inflammation, the attitude is peculiar and unmistakable
DISEASES.
38
able; the back being arched, the feet drawn in toward each other and the tail tightly tucked between his legs; in colic, the belly is sometimes distended considera-
ably with gas, and is then known as flatusulent colic. It is a disease of frequent occurrence among dogs, especially those that are kept in stables, or that eat dogging trees, especially house dogs, to swim in cold inclement weather, are com-
mon causes; the presence of worms in the intestines also produces colic. But the
most common cause is undoubtedly the giving of improper food; sugar and other
substances which are not easily digested, and after which the stomach is not adapted to it,
especially if they have small amounts of meat or other solid food thrown to them,
which they can not well chew, but greedily bolt; or having a portion of one meal
of food left over until the next meal time, when it is given to them without the
stomach portion undergoing fermentation, that is, becomes sour, and the fermentatio
is carried on in the stomach. Colic is sure to yield to prompt and proper measures,
and to be cured by a change of diet. The following is a recipe for a syrup of
a dose of "anti-quinumine drops": Compound syrup of sulphuric ether (known as
Hoffman's anodyne) and nitrate of potash (lunatum) equal parts. Mix, and
keep in a well stopped bottle in a cool place. Dose for 15-16 to 25-30 lb. dog would be 1 teaspoonful; for 30-35 lb. dog would be 2 teaspoonsfuls; for 35-40 lb. dog would be diluted with thin gruel, milk or water, and if immediate relief does not follow,
administer a double quantity, as a cryster in gruel, or the dose may be repeated in half an hour. In "faint" colic, known by the distended belly resembling like
a balloon when viewed from the side, give the dog a dose of 1 teaspoonful of salt
volatile may be advantageously added to the dose of "anti-quinumine drops", or the
following draught may be given and repeated in an hour if the dog is not relieved:
| Description |
Amount |
| Carburete of soda |
20 grains |
| Aromatic spirits |
2 drops |
| Essence of ginger |
5 drops |
| Laudanum |
15 drops |
| Peppermint water |
2 tablespoonsfuls |
This is a dose for a medium-sized dog, such as a pointer or a greyhound. For
puppies and small dogs give half this dose. After the attack has subsi-
ded give the dog a gentle apertient, such as the "mild syrup" below.
| Description |
Amount |
| Syrup of buckthorn |
3 parts |
| Syrup of white poppies |
1 part |
| Catnol oil |
2 parts |
Dose for dog 15-16 to 25-30 lb., is a tablespoonful. Bottle must be well shaken,
before use.
Keep on a laxative diet, and do not let the dog have violent exercise for a day
or so. Endeavor to discover the cause of the attack and avoid a repetition. Long
poisoning produces a peculiar form of colic, and dogs should not have water to
drink that has been collected in leafer cisterns.
The following draught may be given at night or during the day; or quinine hypodermically every half
hour or hour during the attack of colic will give relief very soon.
CALCULI.—The dog is more frequently the subject of Calculi (Stone) than is
generally supposed. Their locality varies; they may exist in the biliary ducts, the
bladder, the kidneys or in the urethra (the passage of the penis).
In Biliary calculus, those stones situated in the biliary ducts, providing they are sufficiently small to pass the duct, are not of great moment—in fact, upon
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
postmortem: one often discovers their existence, while during life no inconveni-
ence or pain was noticed—but should these stones be too large to pass the ducts
they are very painful and a most fruitful cause of jaundice. The bile, which in
health passes through these ducts, becomes completely impeded in its progress,
and the liver is injured by the pressure of the stone. When this obstruction is
established, the symptoms of biliary calculus, when not completely blocking
the ducts, are excessive sickness and constipation, with pain in the abdomen. The
commonest complaint is that of colic, which may be so severe as to compel the
pass to occur in a natural way. To accomplish this object give 5 to 30 drops of tincture
of opium every four hours in a little water, and a soap and water enema night
and morning to relieve the bowels, opium having a tendency to constipate.
Cyclical calcu is the name given to stones found in the bladder; it is generally
supposed to be due to the presence of a foreign body in the bladder, but this is not the case.
A single large stone is not frequently seen, but a number of small ones, especially
in old dogs, is not at all uncommon. In the former cases nothing short of an
operation will effect a cure. In the latter cases it is advisable to keep the patient on the
necessity of keeping a patient in one position after the operation it will be pat-
to meet that canine practice the removal of the stone is seldom, if ever,
attended with success. There have been few attempts at the operation, but all,
with some exception, have been failure attempts.
Small calculi will frequently pass from the bladder into the urinary passage
(urethra), and if small enough, out of the body through the penis; but often they become impacted in the urethra and remain there until they are passed by
water. The bladder becomes distended, and if not relieved, rupture of the organ
results. When one finds a dog can not pass its water, a catheter should be pro-
duced, a little olive oil or a vaseline rubbed upon it, and the instrument inserted at
the urethra. The catheter should be pushed gently into the bladder, and then
the catheter very gently, and gradually pass it into the bladder. If there is a
small calculus in the urethra the passage of the catheter will be obstructed, and
the urine will flow slowly and with much effort. A more injurious injury may
result. A little gentile and prolonged pressure may return the stone into the
urethra; but if this fails, an attempt must be made to remove it by forceps. If an
attempt is made to move up the urine is passed in small quantities, and is frequently
—indeed, often—stained with blood. In these cases it is a matter of relieving the
pain that must be done without delay. The first thing to do is to apply heat to the penis.
To relieve the pain give 5 to 30 drops of tincture of opium every four hours,
and apply hot法兰es to the loins. A dose of oil to relieve the bowels is
advisable; any straining in passing the faeces would increase the pain. It is
well to leave this treatment alone for two or three days.
CUTS, TEARS OR WOUNDS.—The first thing to do here is to stop the bleeding,
which can generally be done by simple pressure with th., ingers, or by a few
drops of lint pressed firmly against the cut. Unless a considerable artery has
been severed these wounds will generally be successful, but if such is the case,
ligature will be sure cure. After bleeding is partially or entirely stopped,
34
DISORDERS.
35
remove all foreign bodies, such as glass, dirt, thorns or splinters, but avoid using very cold or hot water in doing so, having it about blood warm. If the cut or wound is superficial, the cleansing, pressing of the parts together and dressing with a wet cloth will suffice. If the wound is deep, however, and the parts are badly hurt, will be all that is required, the using of these tinctures leaving on the wound a protective covering of ointment. If the lips of the wound will not meet, draw them together with a few stitches, using a slightly curved nature muscle and a silk thread in a double knot and cut ends off close. If the cut is long one, use a pair of light cross-foreopa to hold the lide together ahead of where you are working, as a neater job can be made in so doing. The stitches should be about half an inch apart. If the wound is deep and bleeding afterwards or less on a light bandage to keep the dog from biting off the threads and unfolding the stitches with his mouth and tongue. The wound heals by keeping clean so as to prevent putrefaction of exuding matter. **Consistently wash away all discharge, sponging freely with**
Pur carotic acid. 1/2 ounce
Glycerine. 2 ounces
With water to make a quart. Or the antiseptic prescription referred to below.
In slight cuts in the legs or feet, all that is necessary is to wash well and apply a little of this solution to the surface of the wound. In more severe cases under the hands saturated with a mixture of frax's balsam and camphorated oil.
The above is Dahlen's idea. Lately I have in such cases used Peroxyde of Hydrogen, which is an antiseptic solution given under heading of BITES. With very good result--instead of the usual method of applying "Bitter Oil" on my own will, however do. In applying the Peroxyde of Hydrogen, just tip the bottle up against the wound for a second, when you will see a white foaming or frothing effect take place. Then let it remain on for over a minute or so, but removed then by a little water squeezed on it from a sponge or cloth. The antiseptic solution should not be put on until the wound has been cleared from the effect of the Peroxygen treatment. Judgment must be exercised in applying this antiseptic solution, for if it is applied too soon after the Peroxyde tending to dry or close it up. Closing it up too soon would be a mistake, but as soon as the Peroxyde has extracted the poison, as shown by the white frothing effect mentioned above, it may be discontinued and only the antiseptic solution used until the wound close and heal.
**CHOREA.--Dahlen's treatment i herewith give in full, for it is evidently correct, judging by my own experience. It is a hard disease to cure, but I have cured young dogs one to two years old. Read what Dahlen says, and if you find any difficulty in curing your dog, do not ever admit but what any disease can be cured, or help me I try every remedy known to science. Condition Pills have cured cases in younger dogs for me, and as they always go good and never leave me its worth while trying for, you will be doing your dog some good at least. There is not much, if any, pain in either case, and I had a pup three years old that had a chronic case of it but yet she was alive and raised a puppy.**
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
healthy litter of pups. This was an exception, however, as, being a nervous trouble, it is transmissible, and I would not advise using either a bitch or a dog for breeding purposes that was so afflicted. It is, of course, unpleasant to see a dog constantly twitching or jerking, but so long as they do not suffer I think my duty to them is fulfilled.
This most distressing complaint arises from some derangement of the nervous system, and generally exists as a sequence of dementer, when it is known among kennel men as "the twitch." Chorea, or St. Vitus' dance, may, however, arise from other causes than nervous derangement. The twitch may be caused by a severe injury or blow on the head, the irritation caused by worms, or chronic continued impaired digestion. By far the most common cause, however, is the tempr, the brain receiving some injury in that variety of the disease known as "head-ache," which produces spasmodic movements of the muscles. These spasmodic movements or jerkins may be either partial or general, but usually partial. One or both hind legs are affected, the animal walking with a peculiar gait, the head being raised high on the shoulders, in what case the head is bobbed up and down in a silly, helpless manner. Sometimes the eyelids and muscles of the face are affected, but whatever part of the body is attacked the peculiar twitching or jerking is always unmis- takable. The twitch may last for hours or days, and sometimes drop one of the limbs from the hip joint, apparently from sudden loss of power or command over the guiding muscles. The weakness is strongly shown in those cases where the animal is unable to stand up without support. To do so, and generally falls helplessly on his side "all in a heap." There are very few dogs severely afflicted with chorea that ever get completely cured. When this attack is slight but slight the dog may live for years and prove a useful animal, as, for instance, in herding sheep. In such cases it is advisable to keep him under constant watchfulness; for if he becomes too weak to care for himself he will certainly die. The constant twitching is, however, so annoying a sight to most people that few would care to keep a dog thus afflicted. Although dogs carefully and properly treated are rarely affected with this disease, yet it does occur occasionally and particularly occurs in the best-managed kennels, and so must proceed to consider its treat- ment. The first thing to do is to attend to the general health; and especially to see that the bowels are in a properly regulated state; and it is better, if their condition is not good enough to warrant treatment at once, to allow them to regulate their diet, rather than by a resort to physic; Indeed, all through chorea the food must be of a nature easily digested and given with regularity if any remedy of medical treatment is to be successful. The remedies recommended in chronic cases of epilepsy of similar nature are arsenic and quinine. In their preparations Arsenic I do not recommend, but either of the following may be tried, and it is sometimes found that using them alternately has a more beneficial effect than a perseverence with one remedy only. This may be made thus:
| Sulphate of zinc pills. |
24 grains |
| Extract of gentian. |
18 grains |
| Powdered gum acacia. |
18 grains |
Make into twelve pills. Dose for a dog 20-grb. to 50-grb. weight, one pill twice a day.
Small dogs a half pill as a dose.
DISEASES.
37
NITRATE OF SILVER PILLS.
Nitrate of silver ........................................ 3 grains
Bread ...................................................... 2 drams
Make into twenty-four pills. Dose for a dog 30-40th. to 50-60th. weight, one pill twice a day given at the time of feeding. Small dogs ten to 15 lbs. give one-half a pill as a dose.
The following pills I have found very successful, and can strongly recommend them, although, of course, they are not infallible. As the ingredients require very great care in their preparation, I do not think it advisable to attempt making them myself, but I would advise those who wish to make them to obtain a properly qualified dispensing chemist, and the box containing the pills should be kept strictly in the master's possession. For ear of acacia:
Corydalis ................................................. 1 grain
Quinine .................................................. 18 grains
Extract of belladonna ................................... 6 grains
Extract of mandrake .................................... 1 dram
Powdered Comminuted Rhubarb Pill .................. 1 dram
Mix very carefully and divide into forty-eight pills. Dose for a dog 20-30th. to 40-50th. weight, one pill twice a day with his food. Small dogs half a pill. St. Bernard's one and one-half pill as a dose.
It is necessary in order to continue the use of these remedies for a con-
siderable period, from a month to two months, in most cases—to produce any satisfactory result, or even to give them a fair trial; and, as before said, the dog cannot be carefully fed, well lodged and properly exercised when he has sufficient power of resistance. In this case, however, dogs suffering from these diseases to the country for some weeks would be beneficial. Galbanum has been recommended for chorea; I have not seen it tried, but should think it well worth a trial."
Here are two different cases of chorea prescribed for by the American Field:
"About two months since I bred a young pup bitch, and shortly afterwards noticed that she was not eating her food properly. She would eat only a little at a time,
tick the lower jaw would drop and raise again, and for a while her tongue would hang out at one side as if partially paralyzed. What is the probable cause, and what treatment should she have? She did not weep, and this was her first mating. At another time she had been in heat for six days without being mated; during these six consecutive days, then increase the dose one drop daily until fifteen drops are given at each and every dose; continue this for one week, then decrease in the same ratio.
Two months later I had another case of chorea in a young dog; after two months, a severe jerk in her fore legs, seeming to be worse in damp weather than otherwise she is apparently in good health. The bitch had the distemper about two or three months ago. Ana.-Chorea. For ten consecutive days give ten drops of the solution three times daily for seven consecutive days, and on the eighth day increase the dose one drop daily until thirty drops are given at each and every dose; continue this for five days then decrease in the same ratio." The electric battery has proved of great benefit in cases of this nature.
The two above cases of chorea in a pup and an English setter gives you the old and well-known Powdersolution of Arsenic treatment, and proper sized doses,
if you wish to try it. This is the oldtime remedy and has cured chorea when directions were carefully followed.
38
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
Time and patience, with treatment regularly given, are necessary in a case of chorea, so don't expect a speedy result and you will not be disappointed, bearing in mind always that your dog is worth all the expense, care and trouble you put out for him.
There are two cases of chorea and treatment advised in each, these given as sample cases, and you may have a similar one, so I give them also:
"I have an English setter, three years old, that was taken last February with the disemeter (that is what people called it) and then he began to twitch and jerk, which lasted about six months. He was given a large quantity of quinine and strychnine and other medicines, but nothing seems to help him. His appetite is good and he likes to hunt. Please present me. An--Your dog has chorea, one of the most difficult of all diseases to cure. Keep him in comfortable quarters, do not overwork him, give him plenty of fresh air and water. Do not feed him before meal time, containing nux vomica one and half grain saltate sublimate of iron two grains, quinine one grain. Feed him anything he will eat."
(1) I purchased a pointer dog, twenty-three months old. At that time his right eye was shut up by a tumor of the iris in his flesh. After I brought him home I was told the dog had chorea. When at rest he will twitch his eyes, also twitches all over his body; there is a slight trembling of his limbs and head. The only remedy known to me is the use of the following treatment.
(2) Would the dog be any good as a sire if not cured? Ans.--Chorea, a very difficult disease to cure. Give a teaspoonful of the syrup of hypophosphates three times a day, keep in warm quarters, feed anything he will eat, do not overwork him. Give him a tablespoonful of quinine every day for ten days, and once a day use ten drops of the following in the eye: Sulphate of zinc five grains, colorless hydrate two drams, rosewater six drams. (2) He might
The following article on Chorea was written especially for this book by DAVY.
"Chorea is the most distressing nervous complaint dog owners are familiar with. It is characterized by sudden jerks and twitches of certain muscles. The essential pathology of these more or less constant muscular twichings has baffled all scientific investigation, and careful microscopic autopsies extending from the nerve terminus in a muscle back to the cord and brain, have failed to reveal any abnormality.
"The most satisfactory theory is that the brain cells controlling a certain muscle or set of muscles are so weakened by the poison of diphtheria or some other disease that they cannot send out muscular impulses without natural mental im-
pulse or will power.
"There is form of chorea, due to a disturbed nervous system, induced by blows or injuries to the brain, or the presence of intestinal parasites which have damaged the nerves supplying the muscles concerned. The form which fol-
lowa disemeter is not so amenable to treatment.
"The symptoms are so prominent and characteristic that there is no mistak-
ing them. The patient becomes restless, twitching of the muscles once seen is never forgotten. The entire body may be affected equally; it is only those parts of muscles, those of the foreleg or the neck and shoulders, in which case the head bobs up and down in a helpless manner. Where the hindlegs are affected,
the animal walks with difficulty; it may even drop its hind legs down to the ground.
It was an entire loss of strength and power. This is particularly noticeable if it
attempts to jump on a chair or table for, after one or two attempts, it falls on its side or in a heap, completely helpless."
DISEASES.
39
"The top of the head is often affected and twitches and throbs in a most peculiar manner, and the jerking is commonly observable about the muscles of the eyeballs, lips and face. In severe cases of chorea the general health is affected, and the patient becomes very weak and languid, and his appetite is greatly impaired. His helplessness. In mild cases it does not affect the animal's general health and some field dogs have it all their lives without affecting their usefulness. The owner, however, is annoyed by the constant muscular movements and is always anxious to get rid of the dog.
"Freemont.—Although this disease occurs in the best regulated kennels, de-
pite the most careful treatment of distemper, it does not alter the fact that dogs properly treated for distemper and worms well housed and fed are less liable to this condition than those who are neglected.
"The first thing to do is to look after the animal's general health. See that the bowels act promptly and this is accomplished best by dieting and the feeding of foods possessing laxative properties and not by resorting to physic. If there is the slightest suspicion of any nervous disturbance, treat the nervous sys-
tem with all means at our command and are the cause of many attacks.
"Feed regularly and carefully, and if there is a tendency to constipation use well boiled oatmeal. Afton broth with stale bread, beef well boiled or raw lean meat, fresh vegetables, etc., are good. Frequent small feedings will be found beneficial. The stomach can be given each day to assist the stomach in the process of digestion. If there is much debility and weakness give emulsion of cool liver oil in doses from one teaspoonful to two or three tablespoonfuls two or four times a day. If there is a tendency to constipation give a little of the following: 10 grains of quinine sulphate; 5 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10 grains of strychnine; 10 grains of belladonna; 10 grains of opium; 10
The following pills are highly recommended by many who have used them. As some
of the ingredients are poisonous, they should be prepared by a qualified druggist or pharmacy graduate. Strychnine one grain, extract of belladonna six drops, extract opium one drop, extract strychnine one drop. Take from twenty into forty-eight pills, one which is to be given night and morning in the patient's food. This dose is for a dog weighing from thirty to fifty pounds.
The medicines herebefore mentioned are, in their action, purely stimulative and increase the circulation through the blood vessels and increase the flow
The neck directly over the spinal cord, the other to the extremity of the affected leg, and the electrical stimulation continued for from five to thirty minutes twice a day.
The beneficial effects from a careful massage on the leg and a manipulation
of the muscle cannot be overestimated. Besides breaking down adhesions or
40 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
agglutination of the muscle fibres, it increases the supply of blood to the part and promotes its nutrition and has a most beneficial reflex action on the entire nervous system."
COUGH.--Cough, strictly speaking, is a symptom of disease, rather than a disease itself, but it is in very many cases a non-professional observation the most distinct sign that something is wrong; indeed so markedly is this the case that we speak of a person having a bad cough as the ailment from which he suffers, rather than the symptom that of ailment, and hence we have innumerable popular remedies for coughs, which are really nothing more than a mere trick of the tongue, taking the sign for the substance, the smoke for the fire, and fortunately without much practical harm, for generally speaking, the medicine that will ease a cough is not likely to do any harm. The question then arises what particular disease is indicated by the cough, the concomitant symptoms and circumstances, as described under the special disease, which are usually preceded or accompanied by cough, must be taken into account, and the special treatment calculated accordingly. It is also important to know how often and in what manner these causes of coughing occur, whether they are in many cases the most pronounced indication. Thus in common cold the cough is slight and humid; in bronchitis, hard, dry and frequent; and in laryngitis it is hoarse and dry. In all these cases it is advisable to give some soothing expectorant to relieve the great pain caused by the effort. When the throat is raw, the cough is hoarse and generally accompanied by more or less difficulty in swallowing; in asthma, the cough may be described as wheezy, and is often followed by vomiting. Cough in bronchitis is often accompanied by a feeling of oppression in the chest or of bone or other substance sticking in the throat and causing irritation, in which case the cough is the natural effort to get relief, and ceases with the removal of the irritant. In phthisis pulmonum it is necessary to give some expectorant of the respiratory organs for air passages; its warning should never be neglected, and the early resort to the use of the following pills will be sure to relieve, will frequently cure, and can, under no circumstances, do any harm:
| Cough Pill |
6 grains |
| Powdered Ipecacuanha |
6 grains |
| Powdered opium |
6 grains |
| Compound aquill pill |
24 grains |
| Powdered gum ammoniacum |
24 grains |
| Powdered opium |
12 grains |
| Powdered rhubarb |
12 grains |
Mix and make into twenty-four pills; dose for a 15-lb. to 40-lb. dog, one pill night and morning; under 15-lb. half a pill, and for large breeds give 1½ pills as a dose.
Another very good cough mixture for many kinds of coughs is:
| Mixture of anemone |
2 drams |
| Compound aquill drop meringue |
3 drams |
| Aqua destillata |
2 ounces |
Dose: From half to a teaspoonful every two hours according to size of dog. For puppies to 15 lbs as doses; above 15 lbs as doses.
For a chronical Cough (Chroa).--The following is a very good one. A teaspoonful is the dose, as this cough is of course found in older dogs only, and will do for all brealed except very small toy dogs when half a teaspoonful will do:
| Cough Pill |
6 grains |
| Powdered Ipecacuanha |
6 grains |
| Powdered opium |
6 grains |
| Compound aquill pill |
24 grains |
| Powdered gum ammoniacum |
24 grains |
| Powdered opium |
12 grains |
| Powdered rhubarb |
12 grains |
Mix and make into twenty-four pills; dose for a 15-lb. to 40-lb. dog, one pill night and morning; under 15-lb. half a pill, and for large breeds give 1½ pills as a dose.
Another very good cough mixture for many kinds of coughs is:
| Mixture of anemone |
2 drams |
| Compound aquill drop meringue |
3 drams |
| Aqua destillata |
2 ounces |
Dose: From half to a teaspoonful every two hours according to size of dog. For puppies to 15 lbs as doses; above 15 lbs as doses.
For a chronical Cough (Chroa).--The following is a very good one. A teaspoonful is the dose, as this cough is of course found in older dogs only, and will do for all brealed except very small toy dogs when half a teaspoonful will do:
DISEASES.
41
| Spirits chloroform |
½ dram |
| Wine of Ipecac |
3 drams |
| Tincture of aquilla |
5 drams |
| Simple syrup |
1 ounce |
| Aqua to preserve |
4 ounces |
There are a great many other good cough remedies, in fact anything good for the master's cough is good for the dog's, and I herewith give several prescriptions that I know to be good by trying tried times.
A dog that has a dry and husky cough may have a dry cough, does not cough very much at a time, but quite often. I have cured such cases with the following:
Carbonte of ammoniacum .................................................. 3 drams
Fluid extract of belladonna ................................................. 2 drams
Gum camphor ................................................................. 3 drams
Syrup of aquilla ................................................................. 5 drams
Simple syrup ................................................................. 4 ounces
Fluid extract of licorice ...................................................... 4 ounces
Dose for a medium-sized dog, a teaspoonful every four hours. This is a very good remedy. A large dog could have it very beneficial.
Another good cough syrup is:
Syrup morphia ................................................................. 30 drops
Chlorate potash .................................................................. 30 grains
Simple syrup ..................................................................... 3 ounces
Dose for average-sized dog, a teaspoonful three or four times daily.
I have a dog that has a dry and husky cough three or four times a year that I cure in a couple of days by swallowing his throat out once a day with a teaspoonful of this syrup. The dog will swallow it without any difficulty, and it seems securely fastened on a whalebone will answer to apply this. Run it down quick and draw out at once so as not to choke the dog.
I have found that the following syrup I have ever used. It is put up in a liberal sized bottle, and I can send it by express for 50 cents, or by mail for 60 cents. I have found it good for most all kinds of coughs and asthming.
A bull terrier bitch under a year old became affected with a troublesome cough, which was very distressing to her owner. She was appetite poor, appetite good. Cough was worse when she was excerting. For this I used
Morphine sulphate ............................................................... 1½ grains
Cyanide potassium ............................................................... 2 grains
Syrup of wild cherry .............................................................. 4 ounces
Dose very useful every four hours, and continues its cure.
CONSTITUTION.--Watch your dog every day so as to condition of his bowels. A dog properly fed and exercised will hardly ever be troubled with constipation. I turn my dogs out into their yard each morning and stay there a few minutes and watch them. Their first inclination is to hunt a place and empty themselves (as dog's natural habit). If they do not go out hard and crumble up into dust by putting your foot on it, I watch that dog that night, and if still the same it gets a dose of castor oil the next morning, unless as sometimes happens, the bowels have meanwhile corrected themselves. No dog should go over twenty-four hours without a passage, and better
If not so long. As to the size of the dose of castor oil this depends greatly on size
and age of dog. Take a grown dog the size of a fox terrier or pug, by this is meant
a dog over a year old, and you can give it a tablespoonful. If this don't work at all
or so, repeat the dose once. A dog a year old or over, like an English setter, should stand two tablespoonsfuls of castor oil. A puppy under a year old should have
castor oil given in half, which would be three tablespoonfuls, or even two
ounces at a time. Some dogs, like some persons, are harder to physic than others,
so that judgment should be used; the idea being not to give too much, but just enough to make the patient feel better. The use of castor oil as a remedy much used for constipation, and to the dose of castor oil from five to twenty
drops of this can be added and given with it with benefit.
Puppies under a year old up to a year old should be given smaller doses in propor-
tionate age and breed of dog.
Young puppies as a rule should have rather loose bowels than otherwise, and are rarely ever troubled with constipation.
When a dog is sick, it is well to give him castor oil done by spending a few minutes each morning after it is let out in the yard. Often if only slightly bound up, or passage is
in a bit too hard, a little oatmeal (same as you cook it for yourself), or some cooked
treatments such as boiled potatoes, or boiled rice, will do wonders. Castor oil is right in
place of the oil. If passage is normal (shaped and not hard), do nothing at all.
Every dog should empty itself at least twice a day and puppies oftener.
CAKED BREATH.--This is generally caused by milk fever, a too plentiful sup-
ply of milk which is not curdled sufficiently from the dam by a small litter, or will
happen when the dam is licking her puppies. She must be milked three times daily by hand (this should be done before she goes to bed) and then she will gradu ally get down to twice, and then once a day, stopping as the flow of milk
get less.
Some dogs quite often, every two hours or so, camphorated oil or gum camphor
and lard melted together (which should be kept in a corked jar), rubbing this in
well on all the teats. This will dry up the milk, soften up the cake breads and
dry up the hanging down heag as well, making the bitch more slightly looking. A
good diet is also very beneficial, which any druggist can put up for you,
is the very best thing to use alone for drying up the bitches of a bitch after she has
washed her puppies.
Dext wrote for following case:
"My English setter othel, six years old, whelped and had a caked udder but
seemed to be all right. I gave her fresh fruit treats shown him or called him as
an English walnut. What treatment do you advise and what is it? Ans.- It is simply cake. Give five grains of the lozine of potash three times a day for two weeks. Then give one grain twice a day for another week. Then give one grain once a week. She can be bred safely when she comes in season."
CLAWS, OVERGROWN.--Toy dogs and house pets which have little or no exercise out of doors, where they can dig and scrape the ground, and so wear away their claws. When they are overgrown they become very painful to them,
if not cut in time, it grows into the sole of the foot, causing great pain and dis-
comfort. The ends of the claws should be cut off with a pair of sharp, strong
clippers or nail clippers, such as one can buy at any cutters for 75 cents
require too nails, especially of those running on grass or on boards in winter,
48 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
DISEASES.
48
grow long and tend to spread the toes open, when the latter should be compact.
Extreme care should be observed that only the dead white in light colored nails is cut off, and when the nail is dark, judgment must be exercised. It is best to clip the nails short, but not so short as to cause pain.
In cases which have been neglected, the process of removal should be gradual, a small portion being taken off every few days or so until the claws are of the normal length. If the sole or flesh has been penetrated, it will most likely fortify itself by healing over. The nail should be painted, and the dog fed meat afterwards applied.
**GOLD IN THE HEAD.---See Catabar.**
**CLIPPING TOE NAILS.---See Overgrown Claws.**
**DIPTHERIA.---Some veterinarians hold that dogs are liable to this alarm-
ing and fatal disease. At the slightest suspicion of diptheria, isolate the patient,
as it is contagious, and call in a veterinary surgeon at once.
I have never had a case of diptheria in any of my dogs, but should
have one if I had not consulted a good doctor or veterinarian. This disease should
be treated the same as if it were rabies.
**DENT, at my request, furnishes the following article on this disease:**
"There has been considerable discussion over this disease, which is so alarm-
ing in the human family. While some veterinarians hold that this disease does
not exist in dogs, others contend as reasonably that it does.
The dog is a very intelligent animal, and he contracted the disease from
eating the food that had previously been placed before an affected child, and it
is reasonable to presume that the disease is communicable from man to dog,
and vice versa."
"The cause of this disease in the dog, as in man, is a specific germ which
attacks the throat, or nose, or both and extends from them down into the wind pipe.
SYMPTOMS---Difficulty in swallowing; more or less difficulty in breathing,
chills, fever, marked debility and exhaustion."
**TREATMENT.--The slightest suspicion of this disease calls for isolation, in
cross examination of all dogs who have had contact with the sick dog, and the attention of a skilled
veterinarian, who should use antitoxin either as used in human practice. Feed
easily digested food, and as the animal passes the critical period and approaches
convalescence, use a good tonic piddle pill, any of those advertised in this book."
**DEAFNESS.--A very considerable number of dogs suffer from deafness. In
many cases it is due to neglect; but it is also true that it is hereditary; and I
am quite at a loss to explain why certain dogs are deaf while others are not.
In white dogs, or those with a preponderance of white, than in those of any
other color. Bulldogs, bull terriers and white English terriers seem to be particularly susceptible to this condition. The ear can be cleaned with solu-
tions of wax and this can be removed by syringing the ear daily with 1 part of
spirits of wine and 20 parts of warm water, afterwards drying the ear thoroughly,
by means of a piece of wool rolled upon a pinot or pointed piece of stick. Ser-
viet wash pieces of wool will be necessary. Career is also a fruitful cause of deafness.
I know of no treatment for congenital deafness likely to be of any use except
when it is caused by a mortal growth capable of being removed. Among other
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
causes producing deafness, blows may be mentioned; also lugging at the ear—a most brutal mode of punishment often resorted to by keepers and those having the care of sporting field dogs—and the lodgment of water in the ear cavity. In the latter case, pouring in a little pure oil of sweet almonds may give relief; and in some cases, the application of a hot compress will be beneficially followed with, in addition, the application of a blister behind the ear. Whilst the dog is under treatment, cooling, aperient medicine should be given, and the animal should be kept quiet and warm. The dog who is deaf, like a deaf and dumb man, have their other senses quickened, and the dog will be remarkably sharp at interpreting signs given by the master, who should adopt a system of signs and keep to them. If you own a deaf dog, you should always carry him with you when going out for exercise, as he will follow the street and hunt or killed by a passing wagon or street car—and remember, if you have him out for a walk, that he is deaf, so that no harm befalls him; you do the watching out in this case. Deafness does not transmit—simply happens so that a deaf man will not just go to his breeding purposes.
DISLOCATION.—This is one of the most common and best plan in such cases to at once consult the veterinarian, as not trust to any other person. A veterinary's knowledge of anatomy and experience in operations of this kind enables him to perform it more readily, and with the least pain possible to the dog. If you are struck by a fall on your side, or if you are thrown down by a horse, first examine whether in what direction the hip is parted from its socket. If it is forward, in which case it is called a dislocation of the hip, the head of the thighbone is generally carried upwards and backwards, thus being opposite to the eye, as the injured side is thereby made higher than the other. If it is backward, in which case it is called a dislocation of the leg in one position, while you take hold of the dislocated limb above the stifle joint, which will retract the thighbone downward and forward. In similar operations, great care must be taken to avoid over-acting for too long time. There is always a disposition to a repetition of a dislocation.
DROPSY.—This is an unnatural accumulation of water in different parts of the body, as in water on the brain, drogery of the chest, dropsy of the skin, and drogery of the belly; and it is the last-named to which the dog is most liable. Dropsy is caused by various causes—by old age debilitating diseases; by insufficient food; and especially of inflammatory disorders; but it is usually brought on by unsuitable diet, or by abuse of certain purgative drugs. With the development of shows a new danger has sprung up, as dogs are too often kept on their benches to eat their food without being allowed to drink freely enough; this being considered as cause of inducing dropsy. Dropping of the belly need not in the bitch be mistaken for pregnancy, for in the latter the teats enlarge with the belly, which is auto-gestation. The condition can only be cured by free whelping, while the puppies can be felt through the abdominal walls. In dropsy of the chest, there is wheezing, while the puppies can be felt through the abdominal walls. In dropsy of the skin and baggy, back is arched, and the water moves readily under pressure; the droppical animal, too, is generally poor in flesh and hair in coat. The medicines prescribed for dropsy are: 10 drops of tincture of quinine; 5 drops of tincture of digitalis; and diuretics: 5 to 15 drops of binoxate of ammonium or 1 to 3 drops of oil of juniper, with 5 to 20 drops of tincture of nux venuis. In water, three times a day, are also useful in treating the disease which however, is always best left to a veterinary surgeon.
DISEASES.
45
**DYSPEPSIA.—See INDIGESTION.**
**DIABETES.—This is an increased abnormal flow of urine, the cause being a degeneration of some of the assimilative organs, and when long established pro-
ducing great emaciation and weakness. First, give a few doses of mild purgative, of the "podophylla pills."
| Compound extract of coloecyth. | 6 grains |
|---|---|
| Powdered alum. | 30 grains |
| Extract of hemane. | 38 grains |
Mix and divide into 24 pills. One dose to two pills, according to size of dog. One dose probably enough, if it moves the bowels.
To allay the thirst, always present in diabetes, give (twice a day) 5 to 30 drops (according to size of dog) of phosphoric acid, largely diluted with water, and to strengthen the system 2 to 5 grains of sulphate of iron twice a day, in water.
Astringent Balsam for Diabetes.—Take
Gum sufficient to form a mass; divide into 24 pills. Dose—15-gr. to 50-gr.
dog, one pill every hour; 25-gr. to 50-gr. for large dogs. Pill. And larger than 50-gr,
1½ pilla as a dose. Where the dog is weak and his appetite impaired, have drug-
ist add one grain of quinine to each pill when filling prescription.
**DIARRHEA.—Diarrhea is of very frequent occurrence in dogs, and more
particularly in young puppies and in old and overtired dogs. It generally exists
as a result of the dog's having eaten too much food at once, or by the passage
of leaving stale food from one meal to another is a common source of this disease.
Diarrhea may be classed as acute and chronic. In the acute form there is much
looseness of the bowels, frequently accompanied or preceded by copious vomiting
and sometimes by diarrhea. The condition is usually due to overeating or
checked, it soon produces excessive weakness, and especially in puppies, is
the cause of great mortality. In the chronic state the disease is slower in its
development and less severe in its effects. It may be caused by overeating,
or excess of bile, or it may be the result of inflammation of the bowels. A by no
means uncommon cause is the abuse of salomel and other mercurials, these being
"specifics" with many persons for all dog diseases. Diarrhea often finishes up
with constipation, which is also a common cause of death among dogs. When
this happens, mercurials have been relied on as a cure for that disease. Worms are
also a common cause of diarrhea, and when they exist the nature of the dis-
charge varies greatly. They are often loose, sometimes humpy, followed
by vomiting; their presence is indicated by a dullness about the abdomen.
When vomit appears to be the cause, means should be taken to expel them as
directed later on. Exhalations from accumulations of flint, and especially in low
temperatures, are also causes of diarrhea, and one which never should exist. In treating diarrhea it is often of considerable advantage to give a mild purge to remove the irritating cause.
Cattor oil is very suitable; and if there is evidence of much pain attending the
46
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
disease, a dose of landanum, from 20 to 30 drops, may be added. As a remedy in diarrhoea I know of nothing equal to the following mixture, which very rarely fails to check it if the patient at the same time receives proper attention in other respects:
**ABRENGENT ANODEYE MIXTURE FOR DIARRHOEA**
Take prepared chalk, 3 drams
Aromatic confection (powder), ..... 2 drams
Powdered gum acacia, 1 dram
(Landanum) tincture of opium, ..... 1 ounce
Oil of camphor, ..... 6 drops
Tincture of catechu, ..... 3 drams
Spirits of oil volatile, ..... 2drums
Water sufficient to make 1 pint
The powders must be rubbed very fine in a mortar, the oil of cassia within them; the water must be gradually added, rubbing well to form a smooth mixture. The tincture added in the bottle. Of this mixture the dose will be from a half to two teaspoonfuls for puppies, and from one to two teaspoonfuls for full-grown dogs, given with water or milk. The medicine should be kept in a glass jar, and the bottle must be well shaken before measuring the dose.
"For convenience of form the following may, under circumstances, be pre-
ferred, as it keeps well and is in less compass:
**ABRENGENT ANODEYE DROPS.**
Spirits of camphor, ..... 2 drams
Lanolinatum ..... ½ ounce
Spirits of volatile ..... 2drams
Tincture of catechu, ..... 1ounce
Mix. Dose, from twenty drops to a teaspoonful in water every three or four hours, if required.
"The diet must be carefully regulated all through the disease; such light and easy food as is well boiled oatmeal, rice or arrowroot should be given, with milk or beef tea, and if the patient refuses to feed, a little should be given with a spoon or a drencher every two or three hours; when the dog is very weak, add a little port wine to the food; instead of plain water, give rice or barley water to dilute the medicine; if the patient is very weak and does not take any food given, and the wetting anodeye mixture in small doses, or an injection may be administered."
If the disease is very persistent, and accompanied by blood, inject twice a day into the rectum 2gr. to 5 gr. of sulphate of copper with 15 to 60 drops of tincture of opium in 4 oz. of water. If this does not check it, then give 1 gr. to 2 gr. of sulphate of copper; increasing the dose to 1 gr. with 4 gr. to 1 gr. of powder.
"It is most important that rigorous cleanliness should be observed. All dis-
charges should be immediately removed, and the animal kept clean by spouting warm water till necessary, while disinfectants should be sprinkled about.
The patient should also be kept warm and left as quiet and undisturbed as possible."
Dr. Clayton's diarrhoea cure I have found a very good remedy in many cases.
**Spurton Patent (new advertisement) makes a diarhoea pill that I have often used:**
DISEASES.
47
on my dogs, and with great success, in checking up this trouble, which is often caused in dogs at a show by the change in water drank there and on the trip. I can send these by mail for fifty cents. A tablet or pill is often more easily administered than a powder.
A party wrote as to a diarrhoea from distemper in a six-month-old pointer puppy, just over the distemper, that is getting along nicely and has a fairly good appetite, but is bothered with diarrhoea. His passages are very thin and very dry and he is losing weight rapidly. He lives in the kennel yard and passes a few drops only. At the first stage of the distemper I doctored him for worms and took many from him. For the last five or six weeks I have fed him on egg-soup milk, but he still passes a few drops in each meal. I am afraid that he will get worse before he recovers. During the distemper I gave him Grower's Distemper Cure and Sargents' Compli-
tion Pills. The answer was to give the dog the following, and if, necessary, to repeat the dose:
Chalk 5 grains
Laudanum 5 grains
Ether 5 drops
Mix and give in soup or milk; continue same feeding and also to give dry, well-browned toast soaked in meat broth or meat gravy made with flour in it.
DYSENTERY.--This is a more dangerous disease than diarrhoea, which, when present, is usually accompanied by vomiting. It is characterized by its most aggravated form; there is generally feverishness present, considerable pain, and the evacuations are often black in color and very offensive, and followed by discharges of a glutinous-like substance mixed with blood. The mode of strength is not known, but it is said that it may be caused by an excess of salt. A little port wine in it, the medicine and general treatment being the same as in diarrhoea. In one case of this kind, in a retriever, I gave two doses of twentysix grains of quinine sulphate (in syrup) every four hours until the symptoms were immediately caused by inflammation of the mucous membrane Haling in inten-
times, and are distinguished from diarrhoea by containing no fecal matter except occasionally when it is voided in lumps; but the ordinary evacuations in sydentery are black in color and offensive. The mucous membrane is composed of mucus mixed with blood, and in the advanced stages of the disease; pus is discharged and shreds of the mucous membrane, very offensive in character. The cause of this condition, causing great pain and straining, and is very difficult to manage; it is best treated by giving a strong medicine for sydentery of the patient.
In treating sydentery the "analine mixture" given in diarrhoea treatment should be tried in the first instance alone and if ineffectual, one of the following pills for a dog of 60 lbs. to 80 lbs. every four hours may be tried with good results.
For smaller dogs half a pill.
PILLS FOR DYSENTERY.
Take of tinctura acid 3 grams and pure sulphate of copper 1 dram, powdered opium 26 grains mixed, and ditto 1 grain pilla; or if a liquid medicine should be preferred, the following will answer: Take of pure myrobalane 48 grains dissolve in 2 ounces of cinnamon water; add % ounce of tincture of cattail, % ounce of laudanum, 6 drams of aromatic spirits of ammonia, and make up to 12 ounces with cinnamon water. Do not use this pill on small dogs two tablespoonsfuls
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
every four hours; smaller dogs in proportion. Clysters of starch, with one dram of laudanum in each, are often very beneficial, and one may be thrown up every four or five hours.
The patient should have perfect rest, all evacuations should be instantly removed from the place where the patient is (which should be warm but airy), kept sweet with disinfectants. The food should consist of parle barley, rice, arrowroot or wheaten flour, boiled in milk, varied with strong beef tea slightly heated.
I have cured dogs of dysentery of long standing, obstinate cases, with the following prescription, which was found to be very valuable in the treatment of dysentery in man. It is a good remedy for the dog also. A dram of laudanum and 60 drops of **Elixir**. A friend of mine, a noted doctor in human practice, gave it to me and I "tried it on a dog," succeeding in effecting a permanent cure, since which time I have used it in several such cases with success. Take alma harka bark, two, half a pound; add to this down half a pint. (Be careful to not burn.) The dose for a dog the size of a pointer would be a teaspoonful three times a day. Large dogs like a St. Bernard or a Great Dane would take a tablespoonful. Small toy dogs like a Yorkshire terrier, should have a half teaspoonful at a time.
The following prescription was furnished me by Mr. J. A. Rogers, of Ironton, Ohio, after trying it on his pointer that had suffered with chronic dysentery for over six months. He had been under the care of several physicians who had been treated for worms, at first supposed to be the cause of the trouble, and several well-known remedies tried, but no worms and no stoppage of the dysentery. After trying this prescription, and cured the case completely. The fail history of this extreme form furnished me with information during its duration. I have concluded that this is a very valuable remedy and likely to cure with everything else false:
| Description |
Amount |
| Specific aculete |
10 drops |
| Specific balsamia |
10 drops |
| Specific cecidum |
1 drop |
| Glycerine |
4 drams |
| Add water (distilled) to make... |
8 ounces |
Of the first four articles use only Love Broom preparations—a Cincinnati wholesaler drug firm. In your drugstore you can get this stock if you order it from them. I am not giving this prescription filled for sale here. The dose would be at first—until you see a change for the better—a teaspoonful every hour until three or four doses are given, then every two hours. Of course, if the dog has any other symptoms of disease, give them that remedy also. Cases of dysentery are seldom found in puppies, except when a very great looseness of the bowels appears, generally due to worms; such cases very likely will be cured by proper worm treatment, which find under heading of WORMS. In about ten days' time the dog will show signs of improvement and will eat again and as a disinfectant to kill germs, and to reduce fever, which every dog has in a case of dysentery. Dog also has a cold which the acomet will relieve. The acomet is made by taking 30 drops of laudanum and adding to it 1 dram of your membrane of the stomach and bowels. I will add here that this remedy was intended by the regular doctor, who prescribed it for this dog—for humans, but was tried, and successfully, on the dog in this case. Worms may have been the cause
DISORDERS.
original cause of this case of dysentery. Dry browned toast soaked in meat broth or gravy is a very good food to use in such cases of dysentery.
Dext has written especially for this book the following on DYSENTERY.
"This disease is frequently neglected with the false hope that it will cure itself. It is a serious affection and demands prompt care and treatment. Causa are internal and external. The former are due to the presence of putrid sub- tures, accompanied by ulceration, and in many cases bleeding. The action of ulcers, eating of putrid food, rapid changes from heat to cold and vice versa, also contribute to its development."
"STOMACH--At first there is a loss of appetite, restlessness, painful condi- tion of the bowels, as attested by pressure on the belly. The nose is hot and dry, the animal is feverish, and at first constipated. Afterwards the bowels, after being somewhat relieved, become more frequent and the passages are putrid and more disagreeable, become more frequent and tinged with blood as a result of injury to the bowels, or with pus as a result of ulceration."
"TREATMENT--Give a dose to a 40-lb. dog, %-% oz. each of olive oil and castor oil, to which can be added from 10 to 20 drops of faunaudanum; smaller and larger dogs may take 5 drops of faunaudanum. After the passage of several days give 3 drops of faunaudanum. If the disease has become chronic it may be necessary to try several different prescriptions before arriving at a cure. Here is one:
Sub-nitrate of bismuth 2 dramas
Ipecacuana powdered 20 grains
Tupai 1 dram
Shamrose 4 grains
Dose--Divide into 10 powders and give one three times a day.
"And here another:
Andic tannic acid 2 dramas
Opium powdered 15 grains
Pepita 1 dram
"Size: Divide into 12 powders and give one three times a day. The foregoing sized doses are based on a 40-lb. dog. Smaller or larger dogs in proportion. Feed white of egg, gelatin, beef tea, lime water and milk, toast and beef tea. Keep the patient warm and quiet.
SPECIAL ARTICLE AS TO DIARRHEA AND DYSENTERY.--Since I began writing this article two months ago, I have found a new cure for these troubles, which I have tried on several young dogs and puppies with great success; in fact, it has prevented their being "dead ones," and saved me the loss of some valuable animals. This remedy is called "The Abbott Alkaloidal Cure." It consists in giving to every dog who has any trouble with the stomach or intestines, or who has had any trouble with them during the past year, saving the lives of many pups. I happened to have just at that time two puppies very bad with a dysentery or diarrhea that I was failing to check, and in this propor- sion saw when nothing seemed to be impossible, it at once secured some of those pups put them into these two pows and saved them--therefore this special
40
article. I wrote Dr. Abbott then, got him interested as to his remedies for kennel use, to help save the dogs, and he becoming interested, being as good people as lovers of dogs. He has prepared and put the tablets up expressly for dogs, calling them Abbott's Diarrhea Cure. As a guide for proper dose, I will say 8 pills for a dog weighing 30 lbs., and 6 pills for a dog weighing 50 lbs. The proper effect had been obtained, the feces voided of a natural color, partly shaped and devoid of the obnoxious odor present in dysentery. Col. Williams wrote me that he had given this remedy to his dogs with great success, and that he had used it three times a day, while for puppies a third of a tablet, but I find a half tablet safe for puppies every two hours; when bowels getting better, give less frequently.
Directions on box read "Every two to six hours." And in using this remedy, as it is not necessary to give more than one tablet at a time, it is not over complicated the matter and bind dog up too tight. I carry these tablets in stock and can send them by return mail. See their page advertisement elsewhere.
**DEW CLAWS—Trawin describes as "incidental monstrosities," yet a general opinion prevails that dew claws are the peculiar inheritance of a few breeds of dogs, and from this false idea possession or non-possession of these now utterly useless appendages is often the cause of much anxiety and worry. The fact that impurity of breeding in specimens of the variety of which they are wrongly ascribed as being the peculiar property. The dog claw is attached to a rudiment, more or less developed, of an ornamental phalange called the dew-claw or the little edge claw. This is distinctively referred to by many who know about the other claws.
These additional toes are frequently unmatched at any corresponding metacarpal or metatarsal bone, having only a ligamentous union, so that the term is equally applicable to both. In some cases where the toe is entirely missing neither useful nor ornamental. I would in all cases have them removed, being only a disfigurement in any breed. This should be done when the paws are with the dam, as she will take care of the wound and heal by itself up to healing it; and this can be done without pain or discomfort to either party. When the dog is old they are liable to bleed a good deal, and the pain, of course, is greater; in such case, the wound produced by the excision should be at once well saturated with iodine solution and bandaged tightly to remove the nail only, that can be done by pulling out its cut with a pair of nippers.
**DEBILITY AND WASTING—it happens sometimes that a dog gradually becomes weak and wasting in flesh without any apparent cause. In such cases a continued treatment of Sergeant's Condition Pills, or Clayton's is just what this dog needs. It is also advisable to give him a daily dose of 1/2 teaspoonful of castor oil up five times a day, with a dose of peroxide powder sprinkled over each portion. Also look for any symptoms of divergence from health which may indicate the cause of the trouble.
**DOCKING PAIN—While this is not a disease, yet it happens frequently that puppies suffer no little from this being clumsy done. It is not a painful operation if properly done and before puppy is weaned. Fox terriers, poodles and a few other breeds should have their tails docked to conform to present bench show requirements. An old superstition exists with some people yet that a tail mass must be tied down before docking can be done. This is not true at all; it is done after docking as the pinching before they cut would cause more pain than cutting. Before you are ready to cut the tail get half an ounce of tincture of iron. Have a solid block or tub, have an assistant hold the puppy up to its tail laid on the
DISEASES. 51
block; calculate how long or short a tail you want (three inches is about right). Then let assistant hold puppy up to table with tail lying on it; have a sharp butcher knife ready, and with one quick and rapid cut the tail is off. Tip your bottle of tincture of iron up to and against the end of tail and drop your pup down in the water. The dog will immediately begin to cry or yelp from the operation, but did not seem to notice it at all and went on playing as usual as if nothing had occurred. The mother will lick and take care of the tail, and they will heal up in due time.
**ECZEMA.** This is not contagious, and in this respect differs from mange, which is. It is a constitutional trouble and no external application alone will ever cure it. The best treatment is to get the patient into a healthy climate, so that he may be able to gain weight and strength, in order to insure a cure of this disease. Internal and external treatment both are re-
quired. Neither must you expect to cure it up in a short time, which you can do in mange, because the skin is very sensitive here--and the proper treat-
ment is necessary. The blood must be purified, and you know this by the fact that when you give a spring medicine for a general cleaning out and getting your blood in the right condition you would not expect to do it on one single bottle of Dr. Somebody's medicine. In eczema the skin becomes inflamed, and in this disease the hair sacks or follicles are the principal seat of the disease,
becoming inflamed, and if the animal is a white one the hair assumes a rusty or reddish color at the roots. The inside of the thighs, back of the forelegs, the neck, and other parts of the body become affected. You should always keep time to check it up or inflammation increases rapidly, and the entire skin and mucous membranes will be involved; the hair drops out from the affected follicles, and the whole skin becomes rough and scaly; then it begins running together and forming scabs, which crack open and bleed, and the animal has become a pitiful and loathsome object, emitting a very disagreeable odor.
In my thirty-five years' experience in handling dogs I have found at least fifty cases of eczema among them. I am not aware that any one has made any con-
clusion of so many is that it is mange, and here is where the mistake often comes in. Eczema is curable in dog as well as in human, but patience and regular, persistent treatment are necessary.
In every article on eczema given herein EMMANUEL'S Skin Cure will do the work externally, and nothing more certain to use for the external part of the
treatment, in lieu of any others advised in either of the articles. It is also useful good health and condition.
It will require a month or even two or three months' treatment to effect a cure
in eczema, but if you follow treatment, and keep it faithfully, you will surely
be cured. You may again see your dog as he should be--in his usual good health and condition.
The following article I copy from the American Stock-Keeper, written by
Dr. F. Holmes Brown for that paper, the subject being well handled.
Eczema is a disease which occurs frequently in dogs suffering from some
of the same disease found in man. No disease in the whole range of skin diseases is so
difficult to treat properly. In eczema in the dog it is especially important that one
first of all find out what is causing the disease, then seek to remove it. In that way
you will cure it.
"Ecze'ma is an acute or chronic catarrhal inflammatory disease of the skin. In
the dog it manifests itself in two separate and distinct forms; first, the blodh or
nervous or neurotic form, and second, the red mane or irritative form." Thus
52 - EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
lesions in this disease vary according to the acting cause, the seat of the disease and the cure given the dog. The blotch or neurotic form attacks the skin on the head and along the back. This form is similar to the "milk crust" found in children, and is due to much the same causes. The red mange is that form in which the skin is generally red, but it is more visible under the legs, on the back and abdomen.
The usual form of eruption in canine eczema consists of a large number of small eruptions, usually in the form of papules, which are formed close together, forming quite large water blisters. When opened these look cellular in structure from the many small pimplies of which they are com-
posed. They terminate either by absorption or rupture. They come in crops and recur at intervals. In some cases the eruption is chronic and persistent. Eczema becomes chronic after repeated attacks. When we have a subfused form, there is a greater tendency to crusting, and in severe cases to the formation of pus.. In all forms of eczema, irritation of the skin by food, clothing, or other
indigestion are the main causes. In the red mange form, lack of assimilation, rheu-
matism, gout, and external irritation, as lice and ticks act as causes. In both of these forms, lack of exercise is one of the most important causes. This results in
the skin being too dry and rough, and in consequence the dog seeks to get rid of this excess of effete material by the skin.
This is carried off by the exudation. This is a law of nature, when the ordi-
nary channels are clogged, to try and excert the exudation through them.
This is especially true in cases where there is a tendency to eczema, where nature seeks to rid the
system of the excess of uric acid and urates. These substances act as direct irrit-
ants to the skin, and set up a catarrhal inflammation. Wasting dogs affected with eczema are often found to have a very high blood-urea-nitrogen,
direct irritant to the already inflamed skin. The sulphate of magnesia or soda is
in the beginning of treatment of great value. When there is much constitutional dis-
turbance, opium and colomul in grain doses are indicated. Benzoinated oint of tig
oil or benzoin oint may be used for local application. The use of salol or
grains to the ounce, of an oily lotion is of value. Lotions containing salol or
glyceryl acid from five to thirty grains to the ounce, renocin in the same propor-
tion as salol, or 10 grains of renocin to an ounce of oil will give relief. The
stearate of zinc as a laxative is of value. When disease is due to debility, mineral
tonics and cod liver oil should be given. When the disease becomes chronic,
sedatives must be used; ointments containing juniper tar, green soap and
sulphur are also useful. The use of balsam or benzoin ointment is also much used.
In cases where the skin is especially sensitive, silver nitrate, 1 gramme to the ounce of water will often effect a cure. In the chronic cases, especially iron,
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) should be given. The animal, while undergoing treat-
ment, should be kept clean, and give plenty of fresh air. If eruptions occur,
eczema may be induced by large doses of mercury. The skin becomes red and swollen, then forms large scales and hardens. This eruption is generally limited
to certain parts of the body; it may appear on any part of the body; it is apt to reappear after a period of appetite,
cyclical closure, dullness, offensive odor from the skin; and rarely, death.
I now give you Dray's article on Eczema, written expressly for this book.
In medical nomenclature, eczema is a very comprehensive term. It is applied to all diseases characterized by an inflammatory eruption on the skin. The seat of
the irritation set up during an attack of mange is in general complicated with
eczema, which remains to annoy the dog and his owner long after the mange mites are destroyed.
DISEASES.
58
"Dogs are particularly subject to skin diseases, that are the bane alike of the breeder keeping a large number of dogs in kennels, or the single house pet. While true dog itch is common enough, ninety per cent of all skin diseases are eczema,
"There is a close relation between the skin of the dog and his digestive organs, and any disease affecting one will spread through an eruption of the skin; any poverty or potheric condition of the blood will affect the skin in the same way. If there is any defect or unhealthy condition of the digestive tract, and it is called upon to digest unsuitable food, it is only a question of time before the skin becomes affected. The skin is a very sensitive organ, and any irritation of the skin. Strictly speaking, eczema is an inflammation of the skin due to the causes above mentioned, and numerous others such as old, dirty, damp bedding, lack of exercise, over-feeding, starvation, irritation from insects,lice, fleas or from general system.
"Eczema assumes a variety of forms in dogs. In its common form there is first a redness followed by a swelling which may be a raised or flat papule. In another form there is an eruption of small distinct pimples or papules that do not always break but can be easily felt, like shot under the skin. In another form there is a formation of a yellowish white color that similes like acne, and underneath this crust are usually small pustules.
"Filiformle mange, or red mange, is due to a sort of vegetable fungoid mite that lives at the base of the hair and around the sebaceous gland. It turns the skin into a scaly condition with the hair root, and is most commonly found along the back near the root of the tail.
"In the commonest form of eczema there will first be noticed a patch on some part of the dog's body that is inflamed or covered with pimples. These pimples are usually small and round and are often found on the neck and head. This sore breaks, the fluid escapes, runs over the skin which it irritates, and dries into scabs which mat the hair together. The inflammation affects the hair follicle, so that it becomes inflamed and irritated. The dog licks at these more bare spots. The hair becomes ulcerated or thicken-
ed and wrinkled. The dog is tormented by the intolerable itching past all point of endurance, scratches himself until he bleeds, cannot sleep or eat, gets no rest and becomes a mere wreck of his former self."
The treatment for these various forms of eczema and inflammation of the skin are largely due to constitutional causes, and there is no specific treatment or radical cure for all cases, and the owner must exercise his power of judgment and reason, and possibly try two or three different preparations before effecting a cure.
"The following course must be pursued: First make a change in the animal's diet; give him a diet rich in protein foods; give him fresh milk; give him an increased amount of meat both lean and raw, with little or no bread or vegetables; and rice verse. If the dog is fat and potheric, generally prosperous, and inclined to gain weight quickly, give him a diet rich in protein foods for several hours. If he is thin and unthrifty give live cow oil emulsion with from two to five grains of the asphalte of iron or Sergeant's Dent., Giver's Condition Pills. The fat potheric dog should have a blood purifying end cooling pill twice daily for ten days. Give him 10 grains of Spiritu., or from one to four drams of cream of tartar according to size of dog; or five grains of the bromele
of potash, or the following prescription:
| | |
|---|---|
| **Diseases** | **Treatment** |
| "Dogs are particularly subject to skin diseases... " | "There is a close relation between the skin of the dog and his digestive organs..." |
| "There is a common relation between... " | "Any poverty or potheric condition of the blood will affect the skin in the same way." |
| "If there is any defect or unhealthy condition... " | "If there is any defect or unhealthy condition... " |
| "It is only a question of time before... " | "It is only a question of time before... " |
| "The skin is a very sensitive organ... " | "The skin is a very sensitive organ... " |
| "Strictly speaking, eczema is an inflammation... " | "Strictly speaking, eczema is an inflammation... " |
| "Of the causes above mentioned... " | "Of the causes above mentioned... " |
| "And numerous others such as old,... " | "And numerous others such as old,... " |
| "Dirty, damp bedding,... " | "Dirty, damp bedding,... " |
| "Lack of exercise,... " | "Lack of exercise,... " |
| "Over-feeding,... " | "Over-feeding,... " |
| "Starvation,... " | "Starvation,... " |
| "Irritation from insects,... " | "Irritation from insects,... " |
| "... fleas or from general system." | "... fleas or from general system." |
| "... eczema assumes a variety of forms... " | "... eczema assumes a variety of forms... " |
| "... in its common form there is first... " | "... in its common form there is first... "
| "... redness followed by a swelling which... ... flat papule." | "... redness followed by a swelling which... ... flat papule." |
| "... in another form there is an eruption... ... scabs which mat the hair together." | "... in another form there is an eruption... ... scabs which mat the hair together." |
| "... fluid escapes, runs over the skin which... ... irritation." | "... fluid escapes, runs over the skin which... ... irritation." |
| "... dries into scabs which mat the hair together." | "... dries into scabs which mat the hair together." |
| "... inflammation affects the hair follicle," | "... inflammation affects the hair follicle," |
| "... so that it becomes inflamed and irritated." | "... so that it becomes inflamed and irritated." |
| "... The dog licks at these more bare spots." | "... The dog licks at these more bare spots." |
| "... The hair becomes ulcerated or thickened..." | "... The hair becomes ulcerated or thickened..." |
| "... wrinkled. The dog is tormented by..." | "... wrinkled. The dog is tormented by..." |
| "... intolerable itching past all point of endurance," | "... intolerable itching past all point of endurance," |
| "... scratches himself until he bleeds," | "... scratches himself until he bleeds," |
| "... cannot sleep or eat," | "... cannot sleep or eat," |
| "... gets no rest," | "... gets no rest," |
| "... becomes a mere wreck of his former self." | "... becomes a mere wreck of his former self." |
"The following course must be pursued: First make a change in the animal's diet; give him a diet rich in protein foods; give him fresh milk; give him an increased amount of meat both lean and raw, with little or no bread or vegetables; and rice verse. If the dog is fat and potheric, generally prosperous, and inclined to gain weight quickly, give him a diet rich in protein foods for several hours. If he is thin and unthrifty give live cow oil emulsion with from two to five grains of the asphalte of iron or Sergeant's Dent., Giver's Condition Pills. The fat potheric dog should have a blood purifying end cooling pill twice daily for ten days. Give him 10 grains of Spiritu., or from one to four drams of cream of tartar according to size of dog; or five grains of the bromele
of potash, or the following prescription:"
51
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
Flower of sulphur.................................................. 2 ounces
Cream of tartar...................................................... 3 ounces
Bromide of potassium............................................. 3 drams
Mix and divide into eighteen powders and give one in the morning.
"The blood purifying and cooling pills mentioned are the best thing to use, handy and easy to give.
Besides the blood and eczema cures on the market the following are useful in cases where there is skin irritation with little or no eruption."
Plumbit acet........................................................... ½ dram
Soda bichlorat....................................................... 1½ drams
Glycerin................................................................. 2 ounces
Aqua ammonia....................................................... 4 ounces
Lanolin................................................................. 4 ounces
Lard.................................................................... 8 ounces
Salicylic acid......................................................... 1 ounce
Benzine................................................................. 2 ounces
Apply once a day and wash every week and repeat.
Another is:
Carbolized glycerin............................................... 1 ounce
Laudanum............................................................. 2 ounces
Carbonate of potash.............................................. 2 drams
Apply all over twice a day, wash twice a week.
Another is:
Boric acid .......................................................... 1 ounce
Salicylic acid......................................................... 1ounce
Laudanum............................................................. 1 ounce
Whole oil.............................................................. 6 ounces
Apply all over twice a day and wash once a week with Eberhart's Soap."
*The Kennelman* has this to say of Eczema, published in *American Stock-Keepers' Record*:
"Obvioues cases of eczema are most distressingly aggravating to the kennel owner. In a majority of instances this condition arises from the continued use of starchy foods. When the symptoms appear--pustules formations at the roots of the hair, after a preliminary redness of the skin and wet sores that appear to be caused by the application of water--the remedy is simple. The diet must be fed almost exclusively. Then the blood must be purified, and eczema given freely, a handy preparation that will be found excellent as a general cleanser. A good preventive is a mixture of equal parts (two weights) of Eberhart's whole oil, whole oil soap, and whole oil benzine. According to the size of the dog, dropped on the tongue for a week will do well. It is a remedial agent that is useful at any time. In bad chronic cases this mixture will do well; but in acute cases it may be used only for a few days. Then feed a diet of meat, sometimes times only in a capsule; feed raw beef and no cereal food. Apply to the sores equal parts of oil of tar and alcohol, or Eberhart's Skin Cure.
"Another good thing in the liver of sulphur one large in pound size (Sulph-
furan). I expose a canopist in a quart of warm water and apply at once to the
DISEASES. 55
sores, in fact, the whole body should be covered with it. If a dip is required for several dogs make the solution of the above proportions; if too strong the hair will be burned off. This is a wonderfully good remedy for puppy rash that develops often after puppies leave the mother; and if the puppy licks itself all the better.
Prof. R. D. Bohannon, the collie breeder of Columbus, O., in a letter recently received, furnishes the following:
"I have treated a case of horrid eczema lately (bought) with great success. Took half gallon whale oil, added three pounds sulphur and three tablespoonsful of creolin. Wet the dog in this thoroughly: Left it on three weeks. Then washed him with cold water and put on a coat of linseed oil for two weeks.
Use a can with perforated top. I never saw such a rapid cure. The dog was a solid sore over about half his body. Give him all this time all the raw meat he will eat. He is now perfectly healthy. The best doctor in this state must treat a dog. I am satisfied that any attempt to cure eczema by wetting dog in water solutions is a mistake. Makes every case I have tried worse."
EAR CANKER, INTERNAL—There are two forms of this disease, internal and external; the latter generally the result of the former. I will first prescribe for internal Canker, which is caused by the irritation of some foreign object, or by some noxious substances, horsehair having its feet to the feet, shoes worn too tight, or by some other cause. The irritation is caused in the foot of the dog, sometimes by hard running on rough ground, causing cancerous sores, and which should be treated the same as internal ear canker; but it may also occur in the mouth.
Canker—First of all and most common is some injury, such as blows on the ear or pulling the ears, a habit some people have as a method of correction, and one that is most pernicious. Others, of which probably the principal one is getting the dog's teeth too close together, and which causes sores in the mouth from lack of exercise; too rich food, dirty, damp kennel to sleep in, and excess of fat; it is often found in fat, lazy dogs.
Canker may be the result of exposure to cold, overheating, the presence of incrustations on the skin from an accumulation of wax in the ear; they are also fertile causes, while the most common is the washing of dogs with coarse alkaline soaps which are totally unfit for the sensitive skin of the dog. The soap, during the washing process, adheres to the ear, causing bad inflammation.
Horsehair canker is usually caused by some foreign object whether those sportmen (?) do not often produce it who, instead of correcting their dogs by the legitimate means of the voice and whip, resort to another method much to be condemned. "Lashing" a dog is as cruel as kicking him; neither is a fit mode of punishment for any animal.
Ear canker is one of the nuisances of dog keeping, and when neglected is a most obstinate complaint. The experienced dogman is always on the alert, but many owners neglect it until it becomes very serious.
The careful kennelman will examine his dogs ears as a part of the daily grooming.
INTERNAL CANKER—is an inflammation of the lining membrane of the passage to the ear, which it neglected turns into ulceration and suppuration, and when of long duration becomes very serious. The lining membrane is inflamed within the ear passage, and the interior of the car will be found red and inflamed.
When you notice the following symptoms begin at once to treat him for it, the sooner the better; to save your dog pain and yourself trouble:
56 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
The dog thus suffering will be observed frequently scratching his ear with his paw, holding his head on one side, giving it a violent shake, as though to empty something out, the pain and irritation causing him to thus shake his head, whereby the flaps of the ear get bruised, ulcerations form, the tips become sore, the inflamma-
tion spreading downwards, and the whole ear becomes infected both from the outside and from the shaking and scratching is formed external canker.
When a dog shakes his head, scratches his ear with his paw, and holds his head up to one side it is high time to investigate and apply treatment.
The scratching of the ear by the dog's head leads to irritation of the flap of the ear, the flap swells and looks angry, often breaking out in sores at the tips and edges. This is external canker. The peculiarly offensive odor of the ear passage is a mark of this disease.
**Treatment.**—Wash out the ear with warm water and soapuds, use either Collie or Eberhart's Dog Soap; rinse with clean warm water and peroxide of hydrogen, one part of peroxide to four parts of water by measure.
The canker may be treated by applying a paste made by rolling cotton loosely on a shower or clean piece of stick. Dry thoroughly.
The ear is now ready for treatment, and here is my remedy which has never failed me in cases of this disease, even of long standing, and I give this as having proved to be an infallible cure.
I cured a valuable poodle that had a bad case in both ears for a year; three veterinarians having treated the dog and failed to cure him. The dog was then brought to me and I sent him back in a few weeks entirely cured. This was the worst case I ever saw or handled, and I cured him with the prescription herewith given:
| iodine |
16 grains |
| Bottle of pottasium |
32 grains |
Mix these two first in a tablespoonful of water and then add one pint of pure elder vinegar. Keep in bottle corked up.
After ear has been cleaned out and dried as directed take your dog and lay his head on your knee and pour in or inject with a rubber syringe if he will hold it in his mouth. Apply remedy into the ear and gently rub or knead it in for a few minutes. Do this every day until the canker has been cured, and then every other day is often enough. You can look for a cure of ordinary cases in a week or less if treatment was begun promptly at first signs, neglected cases requiring more time.
Here are several other good remedies:
| Creosote |
30 grains |
| Sulphate of zinc |
16 grains |
| Water |
8 ounces |
This one should be injected twice daily after cleaning the ear same as for the first case.
This one to be used three times a day. Cleanse the ear with Injections of equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water three times a day, then inject two teaspoonfuls of the following: Sulphate of zinc one dram, sugar of lead two drams, glycerin three ounces, water to make eight ounces; inject a tablespoonful into the ear twice a day.
And this one to be used twice a day. Sulphate of zinc ten grains, acetate of lead thirty grains, creolin one-half ounce, glycerin three ounces, water to make eight ounces; inject a tablespoonful into the ear twice a day.
DISEASES.
The discharge from the ear will cause sores on the inside of flap, so when in-
jecting the medicine wash these sores with the same. My iodine prescription is especially good for these sore spots. Injecting with rubber syringe is always best. If your dog will hold quiet, give one shot at treatment, and in his struggling Injure
himself by pulling out the needle. If he does not control himself, inject him in
will do, the main objection being medicine wasting. I find very little trouble in
giving any dog medicine if I go at him easy and gently, talking to him and thus giving him confidence. If you cannot get a dog to take medicine, you must have
you cannot talk to and reason with, kind treatment very soon winning their con-
fidence. You can, of course, tell when ear is cured as the discharge and offensive
smell ceases; car looks healthy and dog has stopped scratching and shaking his
head.
It cannot be too firmly instanced upon that, whenever a dog is suffering from
ear canker or from any eruption or skin disease, it is quite necessary to give a good injection of iodine into the ear canal. This is done by inserting a long needle,
cim known to many dog fanciers as sulphur. A new prescription, therefore, may
not be set of place here. The following may be made up into pills, and will prove
an excellent around-bone and blood purifier. Take of:
57
Iodine (grated)............. 12 grains
Sulphate of quinine........... 10 grains
Bicarbonate of soda (dried).... 24 grains
Liquorice Root Powder and Extract of Gentian-Sufficient of each to form a suit-
able mass.
Divide the above into twelve pills, one of which morning and night will do for
a dog of 10 lbs. More or less in proportion for other dogs. Or Dent's or Clayton's
oilified Purifying Pills are also both good to use in old or very bad cases. This can-
not be done with one box perhaps, any more than you could cure yourself with a
shot of arsenic or a dose of opium out of order, so keep up treat-
ment until desired result has been accomplished.
EAR CANKER, EXTERNAL--This generally follows or appears in connection
with internal cancer, due to the poisonous discharge from ear, causing sores on the
flap or edges of ear. The tares and scratches from brairs and thorns in working
harnesses often cause this condition. It is usually found in young dogs with external
canker. External cancer in a sore or sore much of the nature of a cancer, a large
opening on the outside or inside of the ear which eats a hole through to the other
side if not arrested. It is much harder to cure than internal cancer. It often extends down into the neck and throat. The treatment is simple.
Exterior cancer often starts, especially in hounds and pointers, or any
long-eared dogs, with a small sore that gradually eats into the flap until it makes a
nipple-shaped opening on the outside of the ear. This will be about half an inch wide.
This will be worked over on edges of the slit with a thin scalp, bleeding a good deal, due to dog continually shaking his head. Make a hood or cap of a piece
of canvas of sufficient length to reach around the dog's head, having two pieces of cloth tied together at top to make a hood. Place this hood over dog's head,
cap tight enough round the dog's neck behind the ears, and again just above the
eyes, tying them underneath. This hood or cap prevents dog from irritating the
ears by flapping them.
TREATMENT.--First wash and dry the sore nicely, then put the sore edge twice a day with the following solution: Sulphate of copper one dram to an ounce
58
**EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS**
of water. Here are several other remedies: Yellow oxide of mercury 15 grains to one ounce of simple ointment. Mix, and use once a day to sore after having first cleaned them. Another is, if any of the sores look "angry" scrape with a knife a little blue stone into fine powder and dust the ear with it; or, after bathing and drying, apply a poultice of the same material. As soon as you have can-
terized the sores apply a damp sponge or cloth.
Quoting Hugh Dailed:—"There are other cases where the whole of the exter-
nal ear becomes swollen and tender, the flag thickened and filled with fluid between the skin and the cartilage or gristle; in such cases the best plan is, after bathing the ears out, to cut through the skin round the base of the bloody matter, and bring again wet washed and softly dried the ear, let it be touched with the following
**LEAD LINIMENT.**
Goudard's extract of lead. 1 ounce
Glycerine and carabolic acid. ½ ounce
Finest olive oil. ½ ounce
"Mix the two first named, and add the oil gently rubbing together in a mortar until they become well mixed. In getting this liniment, I mix glycerine and carabolic acid from your drugstall, I mean it to be one part pure carabolic acid in five parts."
There is also a manyag affection of the ear which might be confounded with external cancer; in such cases the edges of the ear become dry, hot and scaly, and hair commences to fall off. This condition may be treated on liniment of Rherbarth's Skin Cure, applying it twice daily, rubbing it in until all sores subside and gently scraping off the hair with the fingers.
**ENLARGED JOINTS.—All large joints are not diseased. In selecting a pup from a litter the big jointed ones are to be preferred. Enlarged joints, from the want of proper nourishment, are often found in puppies that cannot support the weight of the body, consequently giving away, producing deformity; are, however, often met with, caused generally by bad food, lack of good water, fresh air and sunshine." (see Rickards.)
**EAR, POLYPUS IN THE.—This will occur sometimes in the lining mem-
brane of the external auricle. Their removal should be left to the veterinary sur-
geon."
**EAR, WAX HARDENING IN THE.—Warm water injections are useful and afterward the ear should be carefully dried; or better yet, glycerine first put in hot water and when cool enough to use, inject into dog's ear. His head laid flat on one side while he is being injected will prevent him from moving his head too much. Keep up well until daily the wax is softened. Another good thing is one part spirits of wine to twenty parts of lukewarm water. Dry afterward with cotton-wool rolled around a probe or piece of pointed stick."
**ENTERITIS.—(See Bowles' **INFECTIOUS OR**)
**ERYTHEMA.—A superficial inflammation of the skin. Dogs occasionally have it; no remedy has been found for its cure but time itself obtains. The skin peels,
leaving the part tender and sore. The month is often the seat of the disease, and the skin finally becomes wrinkled. Administer a purgative and bathe the parts with a saturated solution of boracic acid lotion (non-potassium).
DISEASES.
50
EPILEPSY. Dogs are peculiarly liable to this trouble. The symptoms are sudden loss of sensation, a violent convulsive action of the muscles, both of the body and limbs, changing of the jaws and emission of froth from the mouth, the tongue may get cut by the involuntary action of the jaw and being tanged with the teeth, and the dog may bite its own tail. In cases of this kind, and from this alarming alarm the dog may be supposed to be mad (if) and the poor fellow under due treatment under hand of Epileptic Fits.
EYE, DISEASES OF THE. Dogs are subject to all eye troubles that humans are, and perhaps more so. Eye troubles I have had great success in treating, and when they occur, I have found them cured in a few days. Accidents to the eye are not uncommon, as from scratches by a cat, injuries from a blow, or in fighting. In such cases the first thing to do is to bathe it with warm water for from fifteen to thirty minutes, this to reduce the inflammation. If the injury is great, a veterinarian has best been called in but otherwise Etherarch's Eye lotion No. 1 or No. 2 can be used three to four times daily with good results.
Etherarch's eye lotion NO. 1.
Cocaine .................................................. 10 grains
Sulphate of zinc ........................................... 3 grains
Water rose, imported................................. 2 ounces
Now, as to the above, this is the one I had in First Edition of this book, only there I had in it 25 grains of cocaine instead of 10 grains, as in this. Under the old formula I used it for years, and with it I saved the sight of hundreds of dogs. Cocaine is a very dangerous drug, and I am not at all surprised that it was actually refused to fill it for fear of so much cocaine "killing or ruining the sight of the dog," etc., which necessitated the readers of the book writing to me of this, and asking me what I would do about it. This was all nonsense and ignorance on the part of their druggist, as there is no crystal poison in cocaine, but only a white powder,
and is so need by oculists in the eyes of people. However, I have since found out that so much cocaine is not necessary, ten grains being enough, which also makes it safe for use by dogs. It is not necessary to quote any article, so that in this edition I have made it less, but it will do the work just as well.
A lady living near New York had a Blenheim spaniel that was nearly blind from diseased eyes. She took it to a celebrated oculist of New York, who pro- longed his visit until he could see nothing but a white spot in front of her eyes. He then prescribed a certain medicine for her dog's eyes. She wrote me and I sent her this prescription, and in a couple of weeks her dog's eyes were as sound and well as any dog's ever even ever. The dog's eyes were apparently nearly dropping out of its head, and looked as if you could put your hand into them without hurting him. When she, after the cure, showed the dog to the doctor he could hardly believe it was the same dog, and said: "Well, it's simply wonderful."
Now here is
Etherarch's eye lotion NO. 2.
Acid boracium ............................................ 10 grains
Cocaine .................................................. 9 grains
Sulphate of zinc ........................................... 2 grains
Aqua camphor ............................................. 1 tablespoonful
Aqua romo .............................................. 1 tablespoonful
00
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
This I have used a great deal lately and it is a valuable one; in fact, one of the best possible to use for almost every sort of eye trouble; can never do harm but always prove beneficial. This one, due to the camphor water in it, will not keep for over a week or so, and therefore should this be remembered and not used when given to dogs who have been suffering from any eye trouble. The camphor is a very pungent balm which is the best.
Whenever I find any trouble in any of my dogs eyes at 1st once use the No. 5 cure for them. It is a very good remedy for those which had settled into the eye as shown by inflammation, irritation or watery discharge, or even only an apparent weakness or blinding when dog was exposed to a strong light.
Dogs are subject to many different diseases, some more or less serious according to their breed. Hunting dogs are naturally, owing to the nature of their work, more subject than other dogs to receive injuries from thorns, dust and dirt and other foreign matter. This will be followed by more or less inflammation of the eyelids, which may be accompanied by a watery or mucous discharge at first and assuming a more persistent condition as the trouble increases.
It is well known that a small particle of grit may remain under an eyelid in spite of fomentations, and should the eye be examined without discovery of the object, it may be necessary to remove it with a needle point. A small sharp brush to the underpart of the eyelid will often succeed in carrying off the irritant, which may be too small to discern. This, however, is usually to be considered merely a preliminary step. The Eye Cure will then be applied to relieve the irritation thus caused. If your dog brings about a swollen or inflamed condition of the eyelids through a chance scratch of the claws in rubbing their face, use my Eye Lotion No. 2, after having first bathed the paws with warm water.
Different forms of indigestion may be associated with irritation of the mucous membranes throughout, and the eyes will suffer in common with the other parts. In such cases it is advisable to give the Eye Cure in conjunction with more or less pronounced, of the eyes, with the eyeball itself and the lids partici- pating in the disorder. It must, therefore, be obvious that the common expression,
" a discharge from the eyes," may refer to a variety of morbid conditions which are rarely met with in practice. The Eye Cure is a very good remedy for this dis- guise for the tyro in medicine may be found in the duration of the discharge. In any case of simple irritation from the presence of dirt or grit it may be fairly ex- pected that no other treatment will be required. But in all other cases of these remedies, that is to say after it has been clearly ascertained that there is no of- fending body adherent to the underneath part of the eyelid. The continuance of the discharge week after week, or even month after month, may certainly be taken as evidence that there is something wrong with the eyes. If this is pre- sent, and under such circumstances chances are that the common eye water, for example, three or four grains of boracic acid in an ounce of rose water, is not likely to fail in its effect on account of its action upon the mucous membrane by clearing the discharge, which is really critical in its character. The proper course would seem to be consult an expert in diseases of the dog, who will most probably be able to find since constitutional cause to account for what has been looked upon as a local disorder.
Pugs, toy spaniels and all dogs with prominent or " pop eyes," as they are termed, are greatly troubled with their eyes, and here is where I found out the merits of my own eye remedies. Either of them will never fail to cure affection and perforation of the ball of the eye if used in time. In some cases a white
DISEASES. 61
or speck will remain, but the sight is all right, and to remove this spot use the following
EYE SALVE.
Vaseline . . . . . . 1 ounce
Yellow oxide of mercury . 2 grains
Mix, one daily, putting inside the eye a portion about the size of a pea, then closing the eye rub it gently. This prescription should be thoroughly and correctly applied.
Under this general heading of Diseases of the Eye you will now find each eye trouble under its proper name, with treatment.
**AMAUROSIS OF THE EYE**—This is a loss of sight, partial or entire, arising from one of several causes; the optic nerve is palased, which may have arisen from a blow near the eye. Exhuastion from suckling will produce amaurosis and bitches sometimes exhibit it during gestation; excess of light is also a cause. The eye is usually affected by a foreign body, and in such cases the eye is inflamed and partially or entirely blind is seen by his stepping high and with needle care when nothing is in his way and running against things that are. If when you feel a blow on the head, he will not see well.
Elberhart's Eye Lotion No. 2 (See ORTHALMIA) may do a lot of good if used at once, as I have never found any case of eye trouble that it did not help or cure. The eye lotion should not be kept on hand very long, however, as the camphor warms up and becomes offensive. In treating amaurosis, it is necessary to examine the organ as the eye is the seat of disease; to commit a qualified veterinarian. If you find the trouble due to a deranged nervous system, to 10 drops of tincture of nux vomica in a little water; twice daily after food, to useful.
**EYEBALL, PROTRUSION OF**—If sometimes occurs in fighting that the eyeball is forced out of its socket. This condition is rare in dogs, prevents its return cannot recommend the amateur to attempt to return the eyeball to its place, but the veterinary surgeon should be sent for, and in the meantime a small stream of lukewarm water should be kept running on to part to keep the muscles relaxed as much as possible, to facilitate the necessary operations in returning the eyeball to its place.
**WATERY OR WEEPING EYES.**—This trouble seems to be inherited by some breeds of dogs, such as Italian greyhounds, Blenheim spaniels, Maltese terriers and white Tosa. The cause is unknown; but it is believed that it will do harm to the interior of the eye. Bathing with an infusio of green will do much good. I use it for any ordinary inflammation due to a cold. Take 2 grains of ordinary Rochelle salts to 2 ounces of distilled water; mix well together; wash out the eyes with this mixture three times daily until they are free from discharge. Then take 1 grain of sulphate of zinc and 1 grain of laudanum dissolved in 3 ounces of distilled water; bathe the eyes with it instead of water, a six ounce mixture only coating a dime of any reasonable drugstic. This weakness may arise from a slight Inflammation. A purge if the dog is gross and fat, and you can use the following Lotion for Wax Eyes:
Sulphate of zinc . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 grains
Laudanum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 ounces
Distilled water . . . . . . . . . . . 6 ounces
Equally as good is boracic acid 3 scruples to 6 ounces of distilled water. Bathe freely.
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WEAKNESS IN EYES.--See Watery or Watery Eyes.
**EYELIDS, INVERSION OF THE LOWER LID OF.--This causes serious trouble, ophthalmia, etc. An operation is the only means of cure, which should be performed by a skilled veterinarian, as in unskilled hands serious mischief would arise. A piece of skin is removed below the eye, and a small muscle, which is attached to the lower lid, is cut loose from its insertion on the bone, so that it may be sutured, but allowed to heal under a scalpel, which helps to pull the eyelid outward and slightly downward, relieving the condition naturally.
**IRITIS, OR INFLAMMATION OF THE IRIS,** is sometimes seen in dogs. The rise of the membrane of the iris is due to a disease at the center of which is the pupil. Degenerative inflammation is usually the cause, or by direct violence. Symptoms are contraction of the pupil, which does not have the same power as usual of contracting and dilating to regulate the amount of light to be admitted; increased secretion of tears; increased heat of the eye; increased pain; increased increase and is prolonged, the usual termination would be suppurative (formation of matter), and the loss of sight. First place the dog in a darkened kennel and give him a diet consisting of meat, eggs, and onions. Apply a sulphate of potassium to the eyes. Dilute of atropine solution can be put at night or during the day. Consult a veterinary surgeon with instructions how to use.
**EYELASHES, TURNED IN.--This occurs occasionally, the eyelash may grow across the pupil, interfering with the dog's comfort and vision. In ordinary cases simply clipping with the scissors will do, but sometimes excision and cauteration of the part is necessary. Either of my Eye Letons to be used if inflammation is present.
**HAW, ENLARGEMENT OF.--The haw or third eyelid, as it is sometimes called, is a fold of membrane situated at the inner corner of the eye, capable of expansion and contraction to regulate the amount of light entering into the eye. It is dirty or other foreign bodies that have blown in. This membrane, from constitutive causes, from blows or irritation from extraneous matter lodged in the eye, or from some disease affecting the eyeball itself, may become enlarged and cover the eyelids from closing. My Eye Leton No. 1 would do good here also, the treatment being astringent lotions, nasal caustic, or cutting off the excrecent growths, according to the circumstances of each case.
**OPTHALMIA,** or "eye-itch," is called the conjunctiva is the mucous membrane that lines the inner surface of the eyelids, and as its name imports, joints those with the eyeball, and ophthalmia is an inflammation of this mucous membrane. This is a disease unfortunately common in dogs; it varies greatly in severity, and in some cases it may be fatal. The symptoms are redness and swelling of both eyes; there have been said to be more liable to it than other breeds, but I do not think so; and I believe the idea originated from the fact that these have generally been more exposed to injury existing in them other breeds. From my own experience I am inclined to think it is due to overwork and overfever, and consequently liable to frequent derangement of the digestive organs.
Anything that will set up local irritation, as the intrusion of dust, flies, etc., or exposure to cold weather and extreme changes of temperature--as plunging into or being thrown into cold water--may be held as an ex- cersive exercise is occasionally a cause, but the most common sources are the vapors of foul kennels or hot stables; and derangement of the digestive organs; an inverted eyelash may occasion it.
DISEASE 68
Ophthalmia is very often an accompaniment of distemper. There is one form of disease which is attended with considerable discharge from the eyes undoubtedly possessing contagious qualities. This affection is known as contagious ophthalmia.
Perhaps the most marked illustration of this variety of the affection in the dog is that which occurs in the young puppies. The term "ophthalmia" is meant the disease which implicates the eyeball itself.
The symptoms are an intolerance of light and a watery discharge, and on account of the inflammation of the conjunctiva, which adheres to the corneal membrane, and across the cornea, or front clear portion of the eye, there are red streaks, and ulceration soon follows, and a white film obscures the eye and interferes with the sight.
The most important symptom of the ophthamia is one of the symptoms of ophthalmia either of the simple and contagious variety, and, in the case of the dog affected with the ophthalmia of distemper, the indications are of a most marked character. The conjunctiva is highly injected and reddened, the cornea becomes opaque early in the disease and at times a small spot of ulceration appears in the center of it, which rapidly extends, and in many cases penetrates the cornea completely allowing the fluid in the anterior chamber of the eye to escape. A similar condition may occur in man, but it is not so common as in dogs. The cause of the disease, and one of the annoying features of the complaint is the glueing together of the eyelids, which can only be separated by very careful and continued foremedication. When other or what is better, warm water should be used. If it is some foreign irritant body, or an eyelid growing in a wrong direction, these should be removed. A mild dose of cooling aprietine medicine should be given, and the eye should be kept clean with a solution containing a decoction of poppy heads; and afterward, if the inflammation is considerable, one of the following lotions may be used several times a day with advantage:
**Eye Lotions:**
1. Extract of belladonna, half a dram, rose water, four ounces;
2. wine of opium, two draughts mixed. When urination has taken place, or is going on, take half a dram each of opium and belladonna; then take half a dram; wine of opium, two draughts; rose water, four ounces—mixed. In place of these lotions given which are no doubt good, as they are Dizuliz's I have used my own every variety of eye trouble, and always with success. This will be called Buxbaum's Eye Lotion No. 7.
| Acid boric... |
10 grains |
| Cocaine... |
9 grains |
| Zinc Sulphate... |
2 grains |
| Aqua camphora... |
1 Tablespoonful |
| Alum... |
1 Tablespoonful |
Drop in eye a few drops three or four times daily.
If the disease is thought to be symptomatic with derangement of the digestive organs, attend to the food by changing the diet, and in any case give light and nutritious food. When the eyes is very sensitive to light, the dog should be kept in a shaded kennel and not exercised in the glare of the sun; but especially in hot weather when he is allowed out into the open air for exercise, so that the place where the patient is kept, whilst shaded, must not be absolutely dark. The kennel must be perfectly clean, and if disinfectants are needed, use Standards of Sanitas.
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CATARACT OF THE EYE.—This is an opacity of the eyeball, a whitish, opaque spot, which gradually enlarges and has generally ended in blindness. It is supposed to be incurable by our best authorities, generally occurring in aged dogs, but sometimes in young ones. The cause is unknown. It is frequently followed by cataract, but might be the result of inflammation or injury, or of old age, or of some other cause. It is frequently fatal. It is frequently followed by cataract, but might be the result of inflammation or injury, or of old age, or of some other cause. It is frequently fatal.
FITS.—Dolziel so fully and ably handles this subject that I give his article entire, as it covers the whole ground. I have been governed by his ideas in treating many cases and the success I had leads me to endorse his treatment.
The fits are divided into two classes: those that are of a dangerous and fatal character are the most rare; they often cause needless alarm, and the dog suffering from a fit of whatever kind is not an object to be pitied at all; but to be commiserated and helped, this requires freedom from fear and anxiety on the part of the owner. The more common fits are not so much to be dreaded as those that are dangerous and fatal; they may be caused by frights, excitement, or other causes; they are often mistaken for epilepsy, but are not so liable to be dangerous as that disease; they are usually caused by excitement, and are known to produce the same effects as epilepsy; hence, if any one of these fits is attended with convulsions, it is advisable to seek medical advice.
APOPLETIC FITS are caused by pressure on the brain from distended blood-vessels or effusion of blood. The subjects of attack are generally those dogs that are kept in kennels and over-fed, and the attack may be the result of the animal being struck on the head or neck while running fast; it may also be caused by a lacerated breath; the dog lies motionless on its side in a state of insensibility—there is no twitching at the mouth or clamping of the jaws, but the eyes are fixed and often bloodshot. Such cases are usually fatal, and death is frequently instantaneous. In such cases it is advisable to administer opium or morphine immediately, soon as sufficiently recovered, a strong purge should be given, or clarys administered. Should these means prove successful, it will be necessary to use extreme care to prevent recurrence; but if this fails, it will be necessary to resort to repeated injections of healthy exercise allowed, or compelled, if need be, and occasional doses of cooling medicine given. Clayton's or Dent's Blood Cooling Pills will be just the thing to give. Apoplexy in the dog is not often seen in practice.
DISTEMPER FITS are caused by congestion or inflammation of the brain, and often accompanied with convulsions.
EPILEPTIC FITS are not dangerous, but of very common occurrence, especially during the heated season, and generally happen when the dog is at exercise—sometimes in the case of pointers they are seized when on the point, doubles from the ground; they lie down on their sides with their legs extended forward to tremble on his legs, and on trying to run he staggars and falls down his side, frequently uttering a low moan. Struggling to his feet he attempts to move only to repeat the fall, when he lies stupidly and insensible. The legs and the whole body tremble violently; the head is violently moved, often knocked against the ground; the jaws are clamped together, and sometimes the tongue gets lacertated between the teeth, and the froth from his mouth becomes tinged with blood; the breathing during the fit is labored and irregular. The fit generally lasts several minutes. When the convulsions
64
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
DISEASES.
68
have subsided, the dog raises his head, opens his eyes with a look of surprise, and very shortly runs about as if nothing had happened.
The treatment during an epileptic fit is to generally carry the dog to a dry place, and keep him quiet until he can no longer hurt himself in his struggles. As soon after as possible give him a dose of Anti-episodic Drops: Com-
pound spirit of sulfuric ether (known as Hoffman's anodyne), and spirit of iodine (iodamine), each 10 drops. Keep the dog in a warm bed. Give 1 to 3 doses of iodine, and 1 to 3 doses of iodine and a dessertspoonful as a leave—and keep him quiet in a warm, comfortable kennel. Endavor to ascertain the cause of the fit. If from over-feeding, reduce the diet. If from lack of exercise, give frequent doses of cooling medicine. 5 gr. of bromide of potash for a 10-lb. to 40-lb. dog twice a day in water for a week will be beneficial to dogs predisposed to epilepsy.
SUCKLING FITS are produced by exhaustion consequent on the bitch having too many puppies left on her. She lies or falls down breathing heavily, becomes in-
sensible, and frequently dies. The environment all the pips but one or two,
which must remain to feed on the bottle, are kept at a temperature below that of the little at a time but often—let the mother have a generous diet, and if much reduced give Clayton's or Dent's Condition Pills for a week or so.
FITS FROM DISTEMPER.—The following is from the AMERICAN FIELD and is prescribed for by DrvN, their veterinarians:
"I have an English setter bitch, twenty months old, which has distemper. I thought she was going to die, but she got up and seemed cured, had a wild look in her eyes and seemed unable to see well. She has these fits now once or twice a day and is very weak, but eats well, though hardly able to stand up. The fits she has now are of shorter duration than those she had before. She begins to eat and is disturbed every morning; after she gets over it she will finish her breakfast of soup and rice or milk. Will she necessarily die or is she incur-
able? I am sending her home with my own money and have lost eight four-month-old puppies this Fall, but I have never seen such a case as this one in any Ana.-Give twenty grains of the brome of soda and one-thirtieth of a grain of arsenic three times a day; we think she will recover."
TEETHING FITS often occur during the cutting of the first teeth, but more frequently when the permanent teeth are being erupted. Lancing the gums is sometimes recommended as a rule to relieve the suffering is all that is needed. Con-
vulsions are frequently present in these fits, as also in those due to worms.
FIT'S DUE TO WORMS.—When these parasites are the producing cause, that fact may often be ascertained by examining the feces voided during or just after the fit, as some of them will probably be seen. Or the presence of worms may be determined by the symptoms given under that head, and to whose you are referred.
FEET, SORE.—Dogs that travel very much, sporting dogs that hunt over rough ground or short sable, are apt to get the pads of the feet contused and worn thin.
Treatment depends on xenon.,of the injury. If feet are o-- tender and slightly inflamed, bathing with cold water, afterward applying freely the following lotion:
| Ingredients: |
1 oz. tincture of belladonna; 1 oz. tincture of opium; 1 oz. tincture of belladonna; 1 oz. tincture of opium; 1 oz. tincture of belladonna; 1 oz. tincture of opium; |
| Directions: |
Apply liberally. |
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
| Tincture of arnica |
½ ounce |
| Tincture of matricia |
½ ounce |
| Tincture of opium |
1 ounce |
| Arctic nard. |
½ ounce |
In severe cases apply a poultice of half bruin and half boiled turpentine. If the inflammation is acute and the feet become swollen, hot and painful, so that the dog cannot stand, the general health suffers, as feverishness and loss of appetite will reduce his strength; matter will form in his foot or perhaps his legs will slow down.
In such extreme cases, add linseed meal to the other ingredients and pour a little olive oil over its surface. The dog should have a mild apertent and a dose of the following tincture aureum:
| Powdered nitre |
1 dram |
| Sweet aperitif of nitre |
½ ounce |
| Mindercurs spiritus |
13/4 ounce |
| Wine of antimony |
1 dram |
| Water of antimony |
5 ounces |
Dose for a 20th- to 30th-dog would be a tablespoonful every four hours in a little grist.
Dog should be kept on a light diet. Sometimes, for more speedy relief, it is well to let the water out with a tancel, and in all respects these cases should be treated as ulcers.
**FISTULA IN ANUS.—This is not uncommon in pampered and over-fed dogs, and may be partial or complete. It usually shows as an opening at the sides of the anus, but sometimes it is found at the end of the rectum. In some cases there is no external opening. It is caused by catarrhism, when the hardened feces abrade the surface in its expulsion, or neglected piles, resulting in ulceration; or fistula in the anus may come from a wound inflicted on the part.
**SYMPTOMS OF INTERNAL FISTULA.—The dog grasps himself along the ground, and appears to suffer much pain. He is restless and restless, and has difficulty in breathing. His breath is short and labored, and he sweats freely with blood and matter. The treatment should be left to the veterinary surgeon, who will lay the sinus open and apply remedies to set up healthy motion and clear it up.
**FLATULENCY.—Is not very common in adult dogs, but often met with in puppies. It is unmistakable evidence of indigestion. For immediate relief the patient should be given a teaspoonful of a mixture made from a pound of carbonate of magnesia, large dogs a teaspoonful, in a little milk; or give a dose of castor oil, and follow with 5gr. to 15gr. of carbonate of bismuth three times a day dry upon the tongue. For permanent cure correct the indigestion. See *Indigestion.*
**FOREIGN BODIES IN THE INTESTINES.—This is another cause of obstruction in the bowels to which dogs are particularly liable. Pieces of bone are swallowed of such size and substance that they pass through the digestive organs very slightly diminished, and getting into the smaller intestines cannot pass through them without causing great irritation. This is hard work if not relieved, indigestion is not up. Sometimes stones are swallowed and cause obstruction, and this will
DISEASES.
07
at once demonstrate the danger of throwing stones for dogs to retrieve, for, in their eagerness, they are apt to swallow them, especially if small. Wool or rabbit fur swallowed is likely to ball together with other matter. See Onuscul-
tus on Bowles.
FAINTY DEGENERATION OF THE HEART.—Previous to making a brief reference to this diseased state, it is necessary to tell the reader a few points of importance connected with the structure of the heart. The heart is a hollow,
conical organ, with a right and left compartment (the ventricles). In shape it is like a cone, the apex of the cone pointing downwards and backwards. The base is made up of two compartments of the body. These large vessels serve to convey the blood in the heart in the cavity, says Franz Tornow Barton in British
Fancier.
The blood coming from these vessels first of all passes into the two com-
partments at the base (auricles), and from there through valves into the com-
partments at the top (ventricles).
The weight of the heart varies according to breed and age, but it has been
estimated that it runs from 3 to 7 per cent of the weight of the animal. It is
white in color, soft and spongy when young, but becomes red in color
in color, firm to the touch of the finger, and the texture of fat running down
the various grooves upon its surface are a sign of a well-nourished organ.
Now, when it is affected by what is called fatty degeneration, it becomes
very soft and spongy, and may be found in one or more patches of fat
upon the walls of the ventricles. This is brought about by the muscle fibres com-
posing the heart being changed or replaced by fat.
In order to bring about this condition the dog need not be fat itself; in fact,
a dog in this state is far more likely to be found in a dog which is thin or un-
underfed.
"dogs which are excessively fat externally generally show the same internally;" I
am sure that is true, that is, that heart, kidney liver, etc., are commonly affected;
in such cases it would seem reasonable to suppose that there is a diseased
state and does not interfere with the animal's health so long as it allows these
different organs to perform their work. It is a sign of over rather than under
condition.
"The fatty degenerated heart is a diseased one. This is not technical. It is
called an "infiltration," a term which means that fat is formed between the muscu-
lar fibres."
I am not aware that there is any symptom or symptoms during life which will enable us to tell whether the heart is in this diseased state. An opinion can only be purely speculative. Of course, the heart has a weak beat, and the animal is easily knocked out. Death in death is likely to occur either from failure of the heart's action, or, if the fat is in form of a patch upon the wall, from sudden
![]() A diagram showing the structure of a heart.
rupture of the wall at this spot, whereby the blood would gush suddenly out of the heart into the bag containing it, ceasing to burst at once.
The animal must be prevented from any severe exertion.
"It has been stated that this disease is common among pampered, asthmatical pets, but I have never seen it in any dog."
This is perhaps the most frequent form of heart disease found in the dog; it is however, seldom diagnosed during life. A post-mortem will show in such cases that the heart is soft and breaks down readily under the finger. Cause may arise from a general malnutrition of the system, or from senile decay due to old age. The organ not always wholly involved, but even a part is affected it is due to some obstruction, causing local malnutrition.
**WARTY GROWTHS ON THE VALVES OF THE HEART.**—The valves of the heart are sometimes the seat of small wart-like growths. When a dog has been a constant sufferer from worms, they are apt to grow with these growths. Their presence may prevent the valves from working properly; one may be whipped off, or thus block the circulation. Sudden death may occur.
Fibrosis should be avoided as much as possible; but this state can only be surmised in the case of the former disease.
**FOLLICULAR MALIGNANT CANCER.**—See CANCER.
**FOUNDER OF THE CHEST.**—See KENNEL LAMENESS.
**FRACTURE.**—See Bones Broken.
**GASTRITIS.**—See Inflammation of Gatherings—see Abscesses and Burls.
**GLASS EYE.**—See Amalgam.
**GLOSBITIS.**—See Tongue, Inflammation of
**FRACTURES.**—While fractures are not of frequent occurrence in well-ordered kennels, they belong to that category of accidents against which there is sometimes no safeguard. A sudden twist, stopping in some hidden cavity while galloping over a field, jumping a fence, or from a carriage (one of the cleanest breaks) or from a horse (the horse being caught by the rope jumping off the carriage), seat and catching her hind leg in the wire rail guard (which is not uncommon), no one never knows when such accidents will happen. Simple fractures are those in which the bone is broken into two pieces only; where a bone is broken into several pieces it is called a compound fracture. In a simple fracture the bone pierces the skin it is a compound fracture, which is the worst of all in the piecing. To detect a simple fracture is not always easy, though of course the best way is to examine the limb. In the case of a simple frac-ture, the limb should be taken hold of above the break and below it and with the other gently move the lower portion of the limb. If the bone or bones produce a grating noise will be heard and the jar of the broken bone can be felt.
In treating this condition great care must be exercised in bringing the broken ends together, and it is best that the services of a surgeon be procured. In case that is not available, or a humane cure is decided upon, the ends of the fractured bones should be brought opposite each other, and then splints, well secured by
DISBREAS.
69
bandages, must be applied to keep them in their places until the two ends are joined. This is generally from three to four weeks in the case of a puppy, and from a month to six weeks in a mature dog. If the case is not attended to immediately after the operation, the bandages must be renewed at least once a week, and the swelling will gradually be reduced before any attempt can be made to set the bones, and cold water or ice applied to the swelling will easily reduce it. Before applying the splints it is necessary to wind a bandage around the limb two or three times from the bottom up, and then another one round the top of the limb, so as to give a good support and some irritation. The splints, which are best made of wood of about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, of sufficient length to extend over the whole straightened leg, and having on each side a piece of cloth or towelling large enough to cover the back of the leg. One for the back and one for either side of it, and they should be just long enough to cover the part of the leg on which they are placed. Before applying them, the fleshy end of each should be smeared with hot pitch, cobweb's wax or some such substance, so that it may adhere well to the skin. On each side there should be another bandage, which should be of considerable length (about six yards long) and one inch and a half to two inches wide, and which has been previously wound round the limb from bottom to top. The object of the starch or gum solution is to give additional support, which it does when it gets stiff and hardens. After the operation the dog should be put into a quiet place--a large hamper or crate does very well--and left alone for several hours. In this way he will get his strength next day but the part of the limb below the bandage is found to be swollen; if at the latter should be loosened for a short time, but it must be tightened again when the swelling subsides.
The above treatment is of course only advised in the case of simple frac-
tures where an amateur may induce his surgical skill.
FATNESS EXCESSIVE--This should never exist in any dog and need not providing it has been fed properly and sufficiently exercised. It is a hard thing to do to reduce a dog, especially an old one, after it has been allowed to get into this condition. It is often difficult even to make him eat anything at all, even when on a meagre diet; such being the case with a great many pugs and dif-
ferent species of spaniels. A certain amount of fat is not only a sign of health, but also desirable, as it is a store of fuel that nature lays up to meet future exactions; but too much fat is dangerous.
A common effect of excessive fat is to set up skin disease, with discharge therefrom, which is Nature's means of ridding the system of the superfluous matter. The dog becomes restless and irritable; his breathing becomes rapid, respiration making the breathing labored, wheezy, and asthmatical, painful to the sufferer, which blows and pants on the slightest extra exertion, and most decidedly leads to death. In bitches not allowed to breed, fat accumulates round the kidneys and ovaries; these organs become distended with fluid which is called fatty infiltration or fatty degeneration ensues, which may cause sudden death.
Causes.--It is caused by confinement, lack of exercise and an over abundance of food of too rich a quality of fat-producing material. Castrating of dogs and spaying of bitches--and I don't believe it right to do either--will cause accumula-
tions of adipose matter, as it takes from the dog one of the organs of secretion, and all dogs that refuse sexual connexion will become obese. All dogs should be allowed Nature's privilege at least a few times during their lives.
70 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
TREATMENT.—Give a brisk purgative two or three times a week and give two to three grains of the colde of potash in water twice a day after feeding. Gradually increase the allowance of food and animal only stale bread, dog biscuit or cracker, and milk. If the animal is very thin, give a little linseed oil; but no more than one teaspoonful at a time. As the food is decreased slowly increase the amount of exercise, and as the animal gradually comes into form omit the purgative and feed raw lean beef, chopped fine—grind-
GOITRE OR BRONCHOEDE—This term is applied to a swelling or lump that appears on the front part of the neck, known as the thyroid gland. It is soft and elastic to the touch, and appears to give no pain except when treatment is neglected and it increases to such a size as to interfere with the breathing. It is especially common in dogs that have been fed on a diet of meat alone, which will appear in a night, and is sometimes due to a cold caught, which settles in the glands of the throat. The latter, and I have found by having to treat many cases, is known VASINUS, full strength, which apply twice daily, rubbing well into the glands. For this purpose use a mixture of one part of tincture of iodine as made above, and one part of potassium iodide, one drachm to seven ounces of lard well mixed. Aside from external treatment give cold liver oil—from a teaspoonful for a 20 lb. dog, up to two drachms for a 100 lb. dog—to a positive cure. In addition, there should be given a bottle of Potassium in doses of one drachm in water, and an additional dose of Farbesh Chemical Food three times a day. If necesse form they must be taken. Dogs suffering from Goitre should be extra well fed.
The following recipe may be used for dogs suffering from this condition:—Puppies, a dog and a bitch, whether spayed No. 11, both strong, quick, full of play and apparently perfectly healthy; excepting on the neck of each is growing under the chin and on each side of the windpipe a bunch much like a tumor; these burses are called goiters; they are caused by an excess of iodine in the blood stream; they do not appear sore as the dogs pay no attention to them." Ans.—"Goitre" is an enlargement of the thyroid gland. Paint with tincture of iodine once daily and give twenty drops of the syrup of hypophosphite in the food twice daily."
GATHERINGS.—See Abscesses.
GASTRITIS.—See Stomach, Inflammation of.
GLEET.—Blunts gives this name to a discharge from the prepuce, but it appears to me the name is misleading. For further information see Poxus. Discharge from the prepuce is not uncommon among dogs; it is supposed as being the most generally useful and readily understood healing. Professor Law, however, enumerates both Gleet and Gonorrhoea among the diseases of dogs.
HEART, VALVULAR DISEASE OF.—A very fatal form of heart disease. The pulse becomes irregularly irregular and feeble. A post-mortem will show the valves thickened and hardened; there are also granulations which feed under the finger like minute particles of sand. Treatment is of no avail; but to prevent sudden death all undue excitement should be avoided.
HARVEST BUGS.—These come in summer and are sometimes, but not often troublesome to dogs as well as man. They burrow in the skin, as does the para- site in mange. Eberhart's Skin Cure applied twice a day, as in mange, will soon destroy them.
DISEASES.
TI
**HAEMATURIA (Bloody Urine).** Dogs have this trouble, being the result of
calenii situated in the bladder, kidney or uretha. Irritation and inflammation are
caused by these foreign bodies, and also injure the mucous membrane, producing
a bloody urine. The urine may be passed through the urethra, or it may flow
across the back may also cause it. Upon pressing the dog's loins pain is evinced,
and there is also a certain amount of irritation caused by passing the urine.
**Treatment:** Give 10 to 20 drops of liquid extract of ergot every four hours, and if the urinary
passage is the seat of the injury, inject a weak solution of Condy's Fluid. The
food should consist for a time of Bovine or beef tea, with egg and milk to drink.
Under no circumstances administer a diuretic.
**HEPATITIS (Inflammation of the Liver).** --see JAUNDICE
**HERNIA, UMBILICAL.--see Navel Hernia**
**HICCOUGH arises from indigestion and often annoys house pets that are
given too much and too often food, or those who drink too much water in a
tumbler of milk to drink; and for a 20-lb. dog 10 grains of bicornate of soda, and
10 drops of estr volatile in a tablespoonful of milk, will usually prove effective.
Another remedy I have used is empanier water (not spirits). Give a 20 to 40lb.
dog one cup of regular beer.
**HOME-SICKNESS.--see Nausea**
**HUSK.--Dogs are subject to a dry, husky cough, associated with derangement
of the stomach and worms are often the originating cause. The symptoms are dry,
hot nose, disagreeable breath, inflamed eye, and increased discharge from nose,
with more or less general fever; the dog after coughing retches, bringing up por-
tion of mucus. The treatment consists in giving a teaspoonful of salt water at night;
cold feed, feeding on warm, easily digested food, and the administration of a dose
of salol oil every third morning, and the following two sets of pills, two a day of
each, for three days:
| Pills for Heaving Cough.--Powdered opium, 6 grains; tartarized aniline, 1 grain; compound equil pill, 1 dram; mix and divide into twenty-four pills, and
give one to a 20-lb. dog twice a day. |
**Tosic: Stomach Cough.--Pure Sulphate of Iron, 12 grains; dried licorice root,
soda, 24 grains; extract of quinine, 32 grains; mix and divide into twelve pills,
and give one to a 20-lb. dog twice a day. Not infrequently worms in the stomach will
cause hiccups; if so, a full dose of ippecacuana wine to cause vomiting should be
given.
As I am writing I have just had such a case of a dry, hard and incessant cough
in an eight-month-old bull terrier pup, which cough suddenly appeared without
any apparent cause, the dog acting and seeming well, only for this dry, hard cough.
The owner was very anxious about his pet's health until he saw me. I told him
the was rid of them quickly but did not succeed for worms were in the stomach
and seen her have a passage of a bloody and mucous nature. Towards night I concluded
it might be worms gave her a dose of Sarsaparilla's Sure Shot after she had fasted
for two days. The next morning she had passed out all her worms. The worms
were in his passage after the vermifuge had worked, and here was the cause of
the dry, hard cough. I followed this up the next morning with a second dose
of "more shoot," got more thread worms, and the bitch feeling much better, want-
ing to eat; and her cough very much better, which I had been treating all this time.
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying down with its head resting on its paws.
72
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
with Clayton's Cough Cure. She fully recovered. All this goes to show that you
sawat get rid of the Worms—as they are the cause of more trouble to dogs than
from any other cause or a combined lot of causes, you may as truthfully say.
INFLUENZA.—This is an epidemic resembling common cold, but more severe
in its effects, and contagious. The causes are supposed to be atmospheric cold, and
dampness, and the symptoms are similar to those of the common cold, with addi-
tional. Influenza is not to be dreaded if taken in hand at once, but if once the
system becomes run down or the various symptoms which denote the disease take
good hold, there is serious trouble ahead, and death or complications which deplete
the system are likely to follow. The first stage of the disease is one of general
relapse from the most trivial cause. In the first stage the symptoms are indolence
of the animal, loss of appetite, rigors or shivering fits, nose hot, then cold, in-
creasing in severity until the dog is unable to stand up. The next stage is one of
unclear or watery, but it soon becomes a mattery description; the breathing
becomes accelerated and the conjunctival membrane red (this is the lining mem-
brane of the eyelid). The symptoms in these first stages are very like the earlier
symptoms of bronchitis. The second stage is caused for the first time
and in a young dog, would say it had the latter-named disease.
The discharge is not, however, of the purulent offensive character that denotes
differentiation from catarrhal bronchitis. In catarrhal bronchitis, in many cases
the eyes are seriously affected, the corner becomes of a bluish shade, the sight is affected, and in some cases ulcers form. In the latter case use Elberth's Eye Lotion No. 2, two or three times daily.
In influenza there is no such complaint, but in influenza the different stages develop with great rapidity, the disease running in some cases on to complications
in twenty-four hours. If the complaint is not checked in its earlier stages,
one may expect to find that in some cases there are complications such as affections of the lungs, and those of a rheumatical character. When the first complica-
tion is setting in, the breathing becomes more accelerated and painful;
the fever increases, in fact the symptoms are those of ordinary chest complaints;
and in some cases there is a tendency to coughing and expectoration.
As it requires the skilled practitioner to differentiate one case of chest disease
from another, it would be useless to attempt to explain to the amateur how to distinguish between them.
The dog should be kept in dry quarters and away from draughts. The treat-
ment should be similar to that recommended under Cola. The dog will, however,
require still greater care exercised in keeping him warm and in a well-ventilated place. A good diet should be given—mutton or veal broth with rice or bread,
beef tea, boiled milk, bread, etc. In the early stages, Hoffman's anodyne or com-
pound spirit of nitrite ether, given in milk three times a day, is generally bene-
ficial. In later stages give a mixture of water and salt drops or water drops.
Any discharge from the nose should be encouraged by warm fomentations;
and making the dog inhale the vapor from vinegar of eucalyptus applied on wet,
wet sponge or cloth. If the throat is swollen and sore, slightly blister with vinegar and water.
Fed on nourishing food, strong broth, boiled milk and bovine. A few drops
of the latter administered frequently in milk, is very strengthening.
In influenza—treatment for a few weeks of Clayton's or Dent's Condition
Pills will be sufficient for building up the dog.
INDIGESTION (Dyspepsia).—This means that food taken into the stomach is
DISEASES.
73
not digested or made fit for the nourishment of the body, and that the stomach has altogether or partially lost its power of performing its most important office. This is caused in various ways; want of exercise, improper food, or having been fed treacled, or other food which is not wholesome, and the use of stimulant substan-
tion, but to cause a serious attack, the causes must have been of some standing.
SYMPTOMS.—A vitiated appetite, wholefood eat he will turn his nose up at, or eat it mindlessly, with a preference for fish and garbage. Considerable thirse is felt in the abdomen, and the bowels are often constipated. The stomach may become inflamed, and breath is foul and offensive when long standing. Indigestion causes many other forms of disease, following neglected cases—attacks of diar-
rhea, sometimes alternating with fits of constipation, as derangement of the bowels may become excessively fat and suffer from asthma accompanied by a cough. The dog's temper is often anapall during the attack.
Indigestion is the condition of all forms of disease, which are sure to follow neglecting this derangement of the bowels being almost inapparable from it. Diarrhea attacks occur, often alternating with fits of constipation; or con-
firmed constitution may exist. A dog will often become excessively fat and suffer
A secondary symptom is skin disease in one form or another. In treating for indigestion the most important thing to do is to remove the cause or causes. Give a sufficiency only of milk, wholesome food, and keep within the dog's reach a sup-
plement of barley grass juice. This will help to restore the normal functions—diar-
rhea—for instance, treated as recommended under that head. The main object is, however, to tone up the stomach and get this organ again into good working shape. Use the following aperient bolas:
Barbara's bolas
45 grains
Tally
1 dram
Powdered ginger
1 dram
Castile soap
2 drams
Make up into a mare and divide into 15 grain balls. Dose, one, two or three balls, according to size of dog.
When bowels have freely acted then give the following twice daily, until health has returned:
Powdered rhubarb
1 scruple
Powdered ginger
1 scruple
Extract of gentian
4 scruples
Divide into twenty-four pills and give one to four pills twice daily. If much trouble is experienced take half a handful of each on back of tongue and let dog have water.
With careful diet and exercise, these means will be found successful. Add a little lime water to the milk that is given to drink. By treating the patient thus and paying strict attention to his dietary and exercise, the disease will soon yield,
and he will regain his former health. Give him a bottle of Dr. Clayton's Dog's Pille,
and recommend them with pleasure. Clayton's and Dem's Digestive Pills I believe to be also very good. Either of these I can send by return mail if you cannot find them for sale in your own town, for 50 cents. They are a good thing to have on hand in any kennel.
| Barbara's bolas |
45 grains |
| Tally |
1 dram |
| Powdered ginger |
1 dram |
| Castile soap |
2 drams |
| Making up into a mare and dividing into 15 grain balls. |
Dose: one, two or three balls according to size of dog. |
| Powdered rhubarb |
1 scruple |
| Powdered ginger |
1 scruple |
| Extract of gentian |
4 scruples |
74
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
The following article I found somewhere, and as it is worth reproducing here entire, I give it once in this book:
"As in man, and many animals, indigestion in the dog may be acute, chronic and passive. In acute indigestion the attack is sudden and painful, and is the result of an overloaded stomach. The disorder is called chronic when the dog suffers for a prolonged period without any apparent cause. In passive indigestion the stomach is active when the attacks brought on by some extrinsic cause, passive when it is the result of some other disease, or is due to an intrinsic cause.
"Thus, while the majority of cases to be affected by indigestion are the pug, the Japanese spaniel, the black and tan hound, the Yorkshire terrier, the French poodle and the fox terrier,
"Flags are probably indigestion sufferers. As a rule, they are encouraged in laziness and overeating which are fed to them indiscriminately, so that it is not sur-
prising they should become fat and dyspeptic.
"The foods which are rich in fats and those which are prone to fermentation
are most likely to cause indigestion. It is much the nature of the food as it is
the quantity consumed at one time which injures an animal's stomach. Small
dogs are more voracious in their feeding than large dogs. Some dogs never
eat a meal until they have got a good start of it. This is a habit which has been
carried down from generation to generation. As soon as his food is put before him,
the dog begins to eat with great avidity. He will eat up all his food in a short time.
If he does not get his fill, he will go away and starve himself on the dish of
hamburger or meat loaf. As he swallows his food with little mastication, Nature has provided him with a desire to break
the bones into small pieces. When these small pieces are taken into the stomach they are broken up by the action of the stomach acid. It was be-
lieved that 70 per cent of the cases of indigestion in dogs are due to their being
deprived of bones to gnaw. Domestication has to a great extent modified the habit.
Man has taught dogs to eat and spooked to the degree that they will eat
only certain foods, which must be fed to them regularly. These foods are some particu-
lar dish. Such peculiarities are predisposing causes to indigestion.
"A symptom of acute indigestion is vomiting after feeding. Later this fol-
lows with a loss of appetite and a general listlessness. The dog becomes agitated
with an expression of fear. The muzzle may be dry. Rumbling sounds in the
bowels are heard, accompanied by distention of the abdomen, which is filled with
gas. If the animal is forced to move, he shows great uneasiness and is stiff in his
limbs. If he lies down, he will lie on his side or on his back. If he stands up,
the abdomen is manipulated he evinces acute pain. The bowels are constipated.
These symptoms may continue for an hour or more, and the attack may pass off
after a few hours or may last for several hours or even days, during which the dog suffers the greatest pain. Then the pain ceases, but if it returns, he becomes
cheerless, and if he goes for a run, apparently perfectly well.
"The symptoms of chronic indigestion are the same as those of the acute attack,
only less severe. The dog becomes irritable and restless, and will run about snapping and biting, expos-
ing himself to be shot for mad by some over-zealous policeman.
He will refuse food unless it is given him in such quantities as will satisfy the dog that it gives him no
medicine. Feed the sufferer once or twice a day, not often, and feed him spar-
ingly. Give him five (5) grains of saccharum peragum before meals, and five (5)
grains each of subrubrum of bismuth and bicarbonate of soda after meals. For small
dogs like Yorkshire terriers, black and tan Japanese spaniels, etc., the dose should be
reduced one-half."
INVERSION OF THE VAGINA—See Uterus, INVERSION OF.
![]() A medical illustration showing inversion of the uterus.
DISEASES
75
IRIS, INFLAMMATION OF.---See HYDR.
INJURY TO THE BRAIN.---The bony covering of the brain is very strong in the dog. They are liable to accidents from falls on the head, running full force against some obstacle, or from a blow, which may cause concussion of the brain.
The symptoms of injury or internal bleeding, breathing few and pulse small and quick.
In treating, examine the case for fracture of skull, and give plenty of cold applications. In cases of this kind consult a good veterinary surgeon. Until he comes run blindly or drowsy on the game and keep the body warm. If you have on hand a hot water bottle, use it.
INTUSSUSCEPTION.---See Dwellers. Obstruction of.--This is a slipping of one portion of the intestines that has been contracted by spasms, within another part retaining its natural diameter, and is another and not uncommon cause of obstruction,
and apt to occur during spastic colic. It is fatal, and can not be determined by any sign except by the appearance of the intestines. The patient will be inclined to be restless over two days, and not so long, is much safer, without having been helped by proper remedies prescribed elsewhere. It is always safe, however, and advisable to give in such cases a full dose of castor oil, olive oil or a mixture of these with water, and also a tablespoonful of tannin water. This will cause the worms getting coiled up into balls, which sets up local irritation, interfering with the natural action of the bowels.
JAUNDICE, OR THE "YELLOW'S" AND INFLAMMATION OF THE LIVER (Hepatitis).---Jaundice is defined as distinct yellowing of the skin and hair; the dog owner the division would be of little use, the causes and general treatment being alike. There are two forms of inflammation of the liver--the acute and chronic, the former the rarer, which appears more suddenly; the latter comes as a sequel of the chronic catarrhal affections. The acute form is characterized by a sudden onset, over-feeling, combined with lack of exercise, which accounts for the great number of such cases occurring in house and pet dogs. In hunting dogs it can be brought about by exposure to cold or their going into water in cold weather, sleep-
ing in damp places, or over-exertion.
One very common cause is the repeated resort to powerful emetics, which so many use as if they possessed a charm over dog diseases.
SYNDROM.--Dog is dull, restless in his sleep, has excessive thirst; very poor appetite; his coat becomes dull; his fur does not cover by hair you will readily notice to be of a yellowish color or tinge. This will be seen on the gums,
lip; and under the legs. The discharge is fetid, and urine, placed in small quanti-
ties, is very offensive to smell. In chronic cases there is no discharge;
sometimes occur; the matter collected is slimy and of a yellowish color; the body
is generally constipated; and the excrement of a pale clay color. In chronic cases the belly is often enlarged and flatulence often exists. In severe cases the dog will sometimes vomit blood; but this is not always so. The gall bladder secretes a yellow fluid called the gall, which is collected in the gall bladder. In-
tended to mix with the chyle, completing digestion. When obstruction of the gall
bladder takes place this gall is diverted from its natural purpose; i.e., reabsorbed by
the intestine; where it collects in various parts of the body--the nose, ears,
the eyes, lips, inside of the ears, arms and thighs, sometimes to the whole skin; and from this it is often called the "Yellow."
Jaundice is of frequent occurrence, often exists as a sequel to distemper; and when this is the case it is most difficult to manage on account of the already reduced
strength of the patient. Treatment must to some extent be governed by circum-
stances of each case.
The invariable yellow color of the parts mentioned as a symptom in this dis-
ease, can only be observed by a careful observer cannot fail to notice; but before this
occurs there are other symptoms which should not be overlooked. In the earlier
stages the dog's appetite fails; he suffers considerable thirst which increases as the
disease progresses; there is fever, with alternate fits of heat and cold; vomiting;
constipation; and diarrhea. The urine is dark brown, or even black; the color of a yellow
cork; the urine is passed in small quantities, and is a deep yellow color; the bowels are generally constipated, and the excrement is of a putrid clay color. In chronic
cases, the abdomen may become distended, and there may be much swelling which
may be felt. In severe cases the dog rapidly loses flesh, and soon becomes
a mere skeleton; the coat is rough and starving, and often comes off in patches. At
written I have consulted on the subject recommended mercury in the treatment of
this disease, but I am afraid that it would be dangerous to administer it.
for the benefit of my readers, although I do not myself use it.
Mercurial Treatment of Jawulius.—Chewed 2 grains to 4 grains, with 1 grain
of opium every six hours, as per size of dog, is an uncommon prescription. Or,
alternatively, 1 grain of opium may be given every two hours, or four times a day,
or six hours. If diarrhea be produced by this treatment, the quantity of opium
must be increased, and the mercury, if necessary, reduced to 2 grains.
I prefer to use the Compound Podophyllin Pills:
| Podophyllin |
6 grains |
| Compound extract of colchicum |
30 grains |
| Powdered rhubarb |
48 grains |
| Extract of hemane |
36 grains |
Mix and divide into twenty four pills. One pill to dog up to 20 lbs., two
pills to larger ones.
If the bowels do not freely open after administering the first pill a dose of
saline water (black draughts) should be given; on the other hand, if diarrhea
exists it must be treated by the mercurial method described above; otherwise
should be tried:
Mixture for Dose—Take trinitrate of potassium, 1 dram; uracum (den-
nised) 1 dram; cinnae mixtus, mixtum; and give a teaspoonful three times a day in water or
gruel. This dose is for a dog about 20 lbs. weight, for a 50 lbs. or larger dog give a
two teaspoonful dose. Bicarb is also derived from the administration of 30 grains
to 60 grains of sulphate of potassium in water. The dose may be repeated in
twenty-four hours, but must not be continued long enough to cause excessive pur-
ing.
If the attack should occur during distemper Glover's or Clayton's Distemper
Cure may be used.
When, as in chronic inflammation, the liver is enlarged, the Lisinseim for Spesia,
equal parts of spirits of turpentine, liquid ammonia (not the strongest)
laidanum and rape oil, well rubbed round the region of the diseased organ, or a
piece of flannel dipped in hot water, wiping the water out, pour some spirit of tur-
pentine over the material, and apply to the affected part. It is very important that
the bowel should be freely relieved at the outset, and if the means advised above
prove unsuccessful, it would be well to resort to ethers of camphor ground and eucrai
| EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS. |
| 76 |
|
DISEASES. 77
oil. The diet is very important throughout the attack. Must be light and nourish-
ing, and in a fluid or sloppy form. Boiled wheat flour, with beef tea or mutton broth, is very good. Keep dog warm, dry, and disturbed little at night.
KENNEL LAMENESS, OR CHEST-FOUNDER (Cysticercus cati, zoon.).
This is a disease of dogs, especially young ones, and particularly of the muscles connecting the shoulder-blade with the trunk. It is caused by exposure to wet and cold, and generally by the dog being kept in damp or draughty kennels. The symp-
toms are: The dog is unable to rise up on his hind legs, and when he does so, only when the dog is running down hill, or when jumping, as of course they practically the whole of the weight of the body is on these parts. Left to himself, the dog shows an indication to move, and experiences pain if the hand is passed over his chest. The disease may be cured by keeping the animal out of the kennel from the hand with a snarl or anticipatory cry of pain. In longstanding cases movement of the forequarters is almost lost, and many are incurable.
The treatment most advisable is to give a warm bath, and after thoroughly dry-
ing, to apply a poultice of linseed meal, with a few drops of turpentine,
spirit of hartshorn, and laudanum. If that should fail to give relief the following should be tried:
**Mixture for Ileostomia.** Take liniment of acumin, 1 part; compound em-
phoratum, 2 parts; mix; and rub into the affected parts continuously for half an hour at a time, using considerable friction. The rheumatic liniment is expen-
sive, also a powerful poison, so that great care must be used with it.
The following mixture will be found equally efficacious: Take liniment that
should wear a canvas-faced muzzle. The bowels should be freely acted on, and the Compound Podophyllin Pills (find prescription under **ZINNIA**) will be the best.
Apply this mixture to the affected parts two or three times a day until
given will assist its action. The following mixture should also be given:
**Mixture for Ileostomia.** Take lozine of sodium, ½ dram; sweet spirit of niter, ½ ounce; water 3½ ounces. Give one to two despotropeas for a dose
of 10 grains each.
Even more useful than the mixture recommended, is salicylate of sodium in 10 grain to 30 grain doses, in water, three times a day. If this fail, then try 5 grains to 15 grains of boric acid in pill form, twice a day.
**KIDNEYS, INFLAMMATION OF THE.** This is fortunately not often found in
the dog. It is a disease of a very dangerous nature. The cause is unknown.
The symptoms are: The dog becomes very thirsty; he drinks much water; and the ineffectual
partial effort to pass urine, the quantity being small and sometimes mixed with blood. It may be caused by the presence of stones, by blows or sprains in the lum-
bar region; by an injury to the kidney itself; by an inflammation of the bladder;
thallies; or other powerful excitements of the urinary organs. It is safest and advis-
able to call in a qualified veterinarian in this trouble. Relief can be given by con-
tinuous bathing of the surrounding parts with warm water, relieving the bowels, and reducing the temperature. A decoction of horehound root (herbal remedy) does
of Lover's Powder; and the constant use of the following fever mixture:
| Powdered nitre. |
1 dram |
| Wine of antimony. |
1 dram |
| Mindenerous powder. |
1½ ounce |
| Water |
4 ounces |
78
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
Mix: dose for a 20-lb. to 40-lb. dog, one tablespoonful every four hours in a little gruel. Larger dogs like St. Bernard's tablespoonful and a half as a dose.
KEEPING EYES OFF EAR AND NOSE—Please often butter a dog's ear and nose in linseed oil, making sure no place. Pinch tar rubbed on the sore places will do for this nicely, also heating up the sores at some time. You can get a box of it at any drug store for 10 cents, or Elberath's Skin Cure applied twice daily will do the work as well.
LOCK-JAW (Tetanus).—This is of very rare occurrence, a fact all the more remarkable when we consider how liable the dog is to various spasmodic affections.
I have never seen a case of it myself, but Blaine describes it, and it is a recognized canine disease. It is a form of tetanus, and under that head Professor J. Wood-
read gives a good account of it. The symptoms are: the head is poked out, the jaws are tightly closed, the angles of the mouth are drawn back, the mouth is filled with frothy saliva, and the eyes are fixed in an unnatural and evident position.
It is fortunate as to have a dog seized with lock-jaw, place him in quiet place on a good bed where the light is subdued and he will not be liable to be disturbed, and once at hand the best veterinary surgeon you can find. A cure is very desirable, but it is not always attainable; but, as matter of duty and business, it is worth while to help your dog through this most painful condi-
sible. All owners of dogs should keep informed as to the veterinarians in their town or city, as to which one is experienced in canine practice, so that when a case occurs they will know what one to call in and just where to find him. Ofttimes ignorance and rough handling would only cause pain without the remotest hope of good results.
LOOSENESS OF THE BOWELS.—See DIABETES and DYSENTERY.
LUMBADGE.—See DIABETES.
LEUCEMORHOE.—Use as an injection peroxide of zinc, 1 dram; acetate of zinc, 1 dram; and water of 1 quart. One injection per day, except in bad cases it can be used twice daily.
LACTATEUR TUMORS.—No better treatment on this trouble can be given than Dazlins'.
Every dog owner must know what a common thing it is to see a bitch with an enlargement of one of her teats, or the structures adjoining them. Now not only is such very unsightly, but when grown to a considerable size, as it will do,
it is very liable to injury.
The milk-gland is the damning out of one of the milk-ducts; the text is "blind" as it is called in dairy parlance—that is, the flow of milk through it is obstructed by some malformation. Far oftener, however, the milk itself is the cause of this condition; for it is not drained off sufficiently; when it hardens, acts as a foreign body, and still further obstructs its passage.
The effect of this is that more or less inflammation of the milk-gland is produced, a hard lump forms and increases gradually, and once begun, the evil develops more slowly and at each returning period after astrum, when pugging has or should have taken place.
"From the numerous questions I have received on the subject it does not appear to be generally known by those who keep dogs that some bitches, even if they have been scolded from due dog during the period of heat," will accrete a fluid much
DISEASES.
79
resembling milk at the time they would have had puke had impregnation been allowed, but such is the case. It is, therefore, the duty of the owner to note the time and look out for the evidence of this secretion and have it removed by hand, or by means of a syringe, before it has become too thick and viscous. Extra proportion of boiled vegetables and a few doses of cooling, aperient medicine. Permitting a bitch when in milk to lie on cold bricks or frans, or to be exposed in other ways to cold and damp, may also cause obstruction of the test and subsequent impotence. The same result may follow from the use of certain drugs. The common cause of these bethel tumors is the hurried drying up of the milk by artificial means. It is sometimes desirable to destroy pears that are the result of a sterility caused by the use of artificial means. The mother dog is the poor mother of all her progeny. In addition to the cruelty, there is always the risk of the mother dog becoming one or more of the tests and producing tumor.
The measure of prevention against lacteal tumour will, from the foregoing remarks, appear obvious. Nature has ordained that the bitch should bring forth young at least once in twelve months, and, though she permits us to take certain liberties with her laws, yet if we go beyond a certain limit we shall follow nature's example. If we interfere with her procreation it must be by direct contruction, but by indirect methods we can do much harm to our dogs. Channels when we forbid the bitch to breed we put an embargo on certain func-
tions and the energy that supplies and works these functions we divert by exciting other channels. This is a very dangerous course to pursue, because the most nat-
ural prevention of disease, is to let the bitch breed.
When it is desired to "bray" the bitch, that is, to stop the secretion of milk, it is necessary to give an animal and other antirheums, and to rub brandy, etc., along the nipples until they are dry. If this is done too soon after parturition, it will produce an outward result, by drawing off what milk there is regularly, giving a spare diet, and a good purge, following this with 2 grains to 3 grains of iodide of potas-
sium twice a day, and every night well with the following ointment:
**Ointment for Lacteal Tumours—**
Iodide of potassium. 1 dram
Powdered camphor. 1 dram
Syrup of camphor. 1 dram
Spermaceti ointment. 1 ounce
Mixed. Rub a little well in with gentle friction.
If these means do not prove sufficient for the dispersion of the swelling, add to the above ointment 2 ounces of reamblled iodine dissolved in a little spirit of wine.
When the swelling appears in any part of the body that has been injured recently or has been ripped (which may be told by the fluctuating of the enlargement under pressure of the fingers), there is nothing for it but the lancet, which should be inserted in the soft part, and a cut made downwards, to insure perfect drainage. The parts must then be frequently bathed, the matter pressed out,
| Tableau |
Description |
| DISEASES. |
79 |
| resembling milk at the time they would have had puke had impregnation been allowed, |
but such is the case. |
| It is, therefore, the duty of the owner to note the time and look out for |
the evidence of this secretion and have it removed by hand, |
| or by means of a syringe, before it has become too thick and viscous. |
before it has become too thick and viscous. |
| Extra proportion of boiled vegetables and a few doses of cooling, |
a perient medicine. |
| permitting a bitch when in milk to lie on cold bricks or frans, |
or to be exposed in other ways to cold and damp, |
| may also cause obstruction of the test and subsequent impotence. |
may also cause obstruction of the test and subsequent impotence. |
| The common cause of these bethel tumors is the hurried drying up |
of the milk by artificial means. |
| of the milk by artificial means. |
It is sometimes desirable to destroy pears that are |
| It is sometimes desirable to destroy pears that are |
the result of a sterility caused by the use of artificial means. |
| The mother dog is the poor mother of all her progeny. |
The mother dog is the poor mother of all her progeny. |
| In addition to the cruelty, |
In addition to the cruelty, |
| there is always the risk of the mother dog becoming one or more |
there is always the risk of the mother dog becoming one or more |
| of the tests and producing tumor. |
of the tests and producing tumor. |
| The measure of prevention against lacteal tumour will, |
will from the foregoing remarks, |
| will from the foregoing remarks, |
appear obvious. |
| Nature has ordained that the bitch should bring forth young at least once in twelve months, |
Nature has ordained that the bitch should bring forth young at least once in twelve months, |
| and, though she permits us to take certain liberties with her laws, |
and, though she permits us to take certain liberties with her laws, |
| yet if we go beyond a certain limit we shall follow nature's example. |
yet if we go beyond a certain limit we shall follow nature's example. |
| If we interfere with her procreation it must be by direct contruction, |
If we interfere with her procreation it must be by direct contruction, |
| but by indirect methods we can do much harm to our dogs. |
but by indirect methods we can do much harm to our dogs. |
| DISEASES. | 79 | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description | Description |
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80
washed with a solution of Condy's Fluid, and dressed with Turner's corate, while
the patient should have a good strong purge. These growths are often removed
by the knife, and when of long standing that is the only course. Camphorated Oil is also used in such cases, and for drying up the milk I have found it very
useful.
Next treat this subject as follows:
"Nature has ordained that at least once a year certain nervous energies in
the female dog be set in motion. This nervous force excites the bowels, the brain,
the kidneys, the circulation, and all the other organs of the body to action. It
is the time of the season when the bitch is bred. If the bitch is
bred at this time a natural function is performed and a natural law satisfied.
If she is not bred these functions are seriously interfered with for the time, how-
ever, and the animal becomes diseased. The reason why this action does cease or is entirely suppressed by simply putting the bitch by for
the time is unmistakably denied by subsequent events. A natural prerogative
asserts itself and it is a common occurrence for bitches which have not been
bred to become diseased. The same thing happens to women who do not have
glands and the secretion of a whitish fluid resembling milk at the time they
would have given birth to puppies if they had been bred.
In this milieu of nature, where every living thing must pump there is danger of
the uterus forming a lacteal tumour. In passing a bitch over the period of
estrum without breeding her, it would be well for all breeders to anticipate the
possibility of this secretion; watch for it at the proper time. Remove it if it
occurs, but do not breed her until after it has passed. Keep her in a diet of milk,
softhern in soup or milk, with an increased amount of vegetables, and keep the
bows open with doses of caracara sagrada and olive oil as often as may be
necessary until she has passed it off. If she does not pass it off destroy her at
birth. This is positively cruel to the mother and to her suckling young. The
lacteal tumour is so great as to frequently affect her constitution. The puppies should be taken away as previously stated, one or two at a time, and the milk dried up, with the same care as before mentioned.
"Lacteal tumours sometimes result from blows, wounds, kicks and other
irritaries; exposure to the cold, sudden chills from lying on damp straw or upon
cold brick or cement floors. The great proportion of cases, however, is due to the
causeless irritation."
TREATMENT.--To dry a bitch up properly and prevent the formation of milk
tumors after removing the puppies as previously described, keep the bows open
with caracara sagrada and olive oil; feed a spare diet of raw, lean beef, chopped
carrots, potatoes, and green peas; give a glass of water every hour; give any milk remaining in the gland draw it off night and morning with a breast
pump.
Apply the following liniment three times a day, with gentle massage: Cam-
phorated oil four ounces; fluid extract of belladonna three drams; soap liniment
two ounces; witch hazel two ounces.
"Give a thirty-pound dog a capsule containing the总量 of potash three grains; potassium nitrate three grains; saltpeter three grains; alum three grains;
For "the removal of lacteal tumors the following ointment is recommended:
Iodide of potassium two drams, powdered camphor two grains, mercurial oint-
ment two drams, iodine resin three grains, five grains of merthiol acidol q.s.; liniment three ounces. Apply three times a day and rub well into the skin with
DISEASES.
81
gentle friction. The capsules previously mentioned should also be given three times a day.
"Tumors that do not yield to the treatment, or have been let go so far as to become a part of the matter, can only be treated with the knife. Operations should only be entrusted to a veterinary surgeon, who will insert the lancet at the softest spot of the enlargement and drain off the contents, afterward inserting a plectlet of oakum which should be changed daily. Large tumors that do not soften up after several days' treatment should be removed by operation."
LABOR, PREMATURITY.--This is occasionally caused by over exertion, leap from a high place, injuries and the abuse of purgatives, as well as the result of diseased organs; it is not of very frequent occurrence. Bitches generally whelping exactly sixty-three days after the visit to the dog, although there are numerous exceptions. The mother should be kept in a comfortable room and kept perfectly quiet, fed on broth, porridge, &c., and repeated doses, one every four or five hours, of opium should be given. See also PANTERATION.
LAMENESS may arise from a cut foot, a thorn, injury to the spine, or to one of the joints. It is best to consult a veterinarian when it comes on suddenly, seek for the cause, and treat the case accordingly. The liniment for sprains very likely to be of benefit in many of such cases.
LARYNGITIS, OR INFLAMMATION OF THE UPPER PART OF THE WINDPIPE.--This common affection is caused by cold or incensing barking, the dog becomes hoarse and then cannot breathe properly. The dog should be kept in a warm room and very wrong to try to keep any dog are very liable to contract this from straining on their collar in barking and trying to get at somebody or something it sees. In treating laryngitis there is danger of choking the dog in drenching because of its natural instinct to bite. A good liniment for this condition is made from licu- ary in this or any case of sore throat will be found safer and very beneficial:
Chlorate of potash, finely powdered. 2 drams
Powdered gum mucinum. 1 dram
Powdered gum nicotinum. 1 dram
Oxydum of quillua. 5 drams
Honey . . . . . . . 1 ounce
Mix, and place a teaspoonful well back on the tongue three times a day.
Poitlice the throat with hot linseed meal poultices, renewed often, or bothe with hot water, and afterwards rubbed well in the following liniment:
Spirit of turpentine. . . . . 1 ounce
Spirit of benzoin. . . . . . 1 ounce
Tincture of cartharides. . . . ½ ounce
Rape oil . . . . . . . ½ ounce
Here is a case prescribed for by DENTY:
"I have an English setter dog about twenty months old that acts as though he had something in his throat. It affects his breathing, and when he first showed symptoms I gave him some liniment for sore throat. He eats out of hand at others will not eat; is healthy and bright. I can put my finger under his throat and press very lightly, and it almost shuts off his wind. It seems as though there was a kind of bunch in his throat that is not natural."
(1) World Inflammation
82
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
of the larynx cause it? (3) Is there such a thing as a tumor of the larynx? I had him in swimming about four weeks ago, and when he was in the water his breathing sounded like the voice of a frog. Please diagnose and prescribe. Ans.--(1) Yes, (2) Yes. Your dog has laryngitis; give the following: Glycerine two ounces, water to make two ounces; dose one teaspoonful every four hours.
LOOSENESS OF THE BOWELS--See Diarrhea and Dysentery.
LUMBAGO--See Rheumatism.
LUNGS, INFLAMMATION OF (Pneumonia; Pusirizy)--Inflammation of the investing Membrane of the Lungs, and that which lines the Chest-Cavity. (4.) On this subject I give Dalliez's treatment complete.
These two diseases are sometimes co-existent, when it is known as pleurisy pneumonia; but they are so different in their symptoms that it is impossible to distinguish between them; but as the causes and treatment are much the same, I shall continue to treat them as one disease. This disease is of very common occurrence in dogs, and in many cases proves fatal. When it exists as a complication of distemper, it is usually accompanied by a high temperature, and the lungs are greatly involved.
The causes producing inflammation of the lungs are generally exposure to severe cold, allowing dogs to swim during inclement weather, clipping dogs or otherwise removing a greater part of their natural covering, or washing them and afterward exposing them to excessive cold, especially if not thoroughly dried. In fact, any sudden transition from a high to a low temperature may produce it. Equally dangerous is the effect of a sudden change in the air. For instance, if it may occur from over-exertion through running too far, or from fractured ribs penetrating the lung-cases.
The more notable symptoms are quick and labored breathing, the inspirations being short, with a shortness of breath, and the breath hot. The dog sits on his haunches, and if obliged to move does so reluctantly; and soon resumes that position, with his head pushed forward. The ribs are more or less fixed, and the chest appears to be drawn in at the sides. The animal is unable to assume the fixed position of the ribs, with the heaving of the flanks is a most characteristic symptom of pleurisy. In affections of the lungs, the animal stands with its legs (fore legs) wide apart. If the disease progresses, the face has a haggard appearance, and the eyes are sunken. The temperature is high for a few days; then it becomes gradually lower; but if relieved, the dog rapidly gets worse, and the breathing becomes more labored and painful.
To treat this inflammation of the investing membrane of the lungs, often exists independently, or as a complication of pneumonia. To treat this disease with any chance of success it is important that the dog should be kept where he can freely breathe fresh air; a hot, stilling place in equality to be avoided with dogs suffering from this complaint. It is also necessary that he should be at all times kept warm by clothing if necessary; it is also useful that he should be as little disturbed as possible. If the legs are cold, woolen bandages should be applied round them. If they are hot, they should be washed with cold water. If not much so--hurtful, greeel, etc., are suitable under the circumstances.
In the way of medicines, it is necessary that the bowels should be kept open by enator oil or this or other of clysters. The Fever Mixture--which find given under Catarrh--should be immediately and diligently administered.
![]() A medical illustration showing a dog with a swollen neck.
DISEASES.
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Blisters to the sides, as sometimes advised, are bad, as they cause soreness and increase the pain in breathing. Hot linseed poultices should alone be em-
ployed throughout the day and night. If the fever is high, give ½ to 1 drop of
tincture of aconite every fifteen minutes for two hours, then hourly for eight hours.
The dog must be kept quiet and warm, and allowed to rest. The best way is to
give great care to prevent a relapse, even when all danger appears to be gone. Only
the most gentle exercise should be allowed at first, and fine weather selected for
exercises. The dog will soon recover from this stage, but it is well to keep him
for a time of broths, etc., a return to solid food being gradually resumed. The dog will at
this stage be greatly benefited by tonics and to build him up either use Ser-
gent's Dent's Glover or Clayton's Condition Pills; all are good.
MANGE.——A troublesome, and, in some forms, the most loathsome disease met
with in the dog, occurring in so many forms as to be not always easy of distinc-
tion. The trouble with too many dog owners is, that, when any skin trouble ap-
pears, they immediately assume that it is mange, and that it is necessary to confound,
and, as there is a decided difference, mange being a skin trouble, due to a parasite,
while eczema is a blood trouble, the two diseases require different treatment. Mange
is a parasitic disease of the skin caused by a minute worm-like animal which lives in
human race, in both of which exist parasite life in the skin, and is a cutaneous
disease. The very pronounced distinction between true mange and eczema, and
other causes of irritation of the skin, is that mange is caused by a parasite
which lives in the hair follicles of the skin; while eczema may be due to poison,
to another, while eczema, blistet, scurfet or red mange, is not. And while, a whole kennel may be suffering from the latter complaints, it must be noted that
all have been subjected to conditions of life occasioning derangement of the sys-
tematic functions of the body. True mange resembles it in man, as it is due to a small parasite that burrows or tunnels through the skin in all directions, drawing its nourishment thenceforth. The
mange worm lives in the hair follicles of the skin and burrows into them every
week; the young continue burrowing and occasion intense itching. True mange
is entirely a local affection, and the uneasiness and loss of sleep causes the
animal to continually scratch and bite itself in its vain efforts to allay the intol-
erable itching. The dog becomes very restless and irritable; he scratches himself,
and will soon transform a healthy and sleek coated put into a louse-infested object.
The cause is invariably the result of having met some dog or other animal that has been infected with this disease; or it may be due to dogs sleeping together or
sleeping quarters, or being shipped in a crate that was infested with dogs with
mange; will surely corrupt it. Absolute cleanliness is necessary in the treatment
of mange. When your dog shows signs of mange, remove it immediately from its
quarters; wash it thoroughly with hot water and soap; then rinse with cold water;
to which has been added the Standard Disinfectant or Sanitas (See advertisement of both in this book). Either one, if thoroughly applied, will
destroy every parasite in its path.
The dog should have good bath with Eberhart's Dog Soap, using quite as much water as the dog can stand, cleansing its entire body and opening the pores
of the skin. After drying the dog thoroughly, then apply Eberhart's Skin Cure,
which is nothing but a mixture of salt and pepper; rub it on the dog's body for,
day after day until some parasites are very few and indistinctly seen. These are—-and—in a day later many newborn ones would be hard at work again. Take plenty of time in putting on this skin cure, using "plenty of elbow
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
"ruan," applying it the same as you would a liniment. Repeat this next day,
and probably for two days more, the hoth not being strictly essential except the
first day. If you wish, or the dog is a house dog, you can give it a bath after the
skin cure has been on for half an hour, for it has then done its work, this bath
simply to put the dog in more presentable and cleaner shape, all skin chills
naturally disappear with it. The skin cure is a very good one. There are sever-
eral good mange cures aside from mine, as Glover's, Clayton's, Spratt's and
others, and I used some of these until I got up my own, which is simple and
perfectly effective. The only objection to my cure is that it is not so extensively
sold as most mange cures have, not so objectionable to use. There are nine
different ingredients used in mine, and each bottle has to be made separately, in
order to get these ingredients to mix. A very good mange cure is the following:
| Tram oil |
½ gallon |
| Vinegar |
½ pint |
| Oil of tar |
½ ounce |
| Lac Sulphur |
1 pound |
First mix the oil and turpentine and then add the oil of tar and sulphur.
Your doctor will tell you how much of each to procure. If so, com-
mon "black oil" or crude petroleum will do just as well.
All mange cures should be applied the same as directed in using mine.
Mr. Fred Jacob, Proprietor of the Woolline Kennels, Lowell, Mich., recom-
mends using Standard Oil of Tar, as follows:
"For quick cure of mange use 1 quart of Standard Oil of Tar to 10 quarts of water. This mixture should be applied by scalding or burning hand, mix thor-
oughly, place liquid in a small narrow tub, one that will just fit the dog if possible;
place dog in tub, take out and pour the liquid all over him, beginning at head,
just under the ears and down his back; then repeat this process three times; after
the cure to affected parts. Take stiff brush, wet with liquid, brush thoroughly
over dog's body; then take a clean towel and roll it in the liquid; do not rinse off with clean water or rub skin dry. Do not allow dog to roll in dirt
until he is completely dry. After this treatment repeat every other day for two weeks.
Rolling in sand after a wash will irritate the sores and make the cure all the
harder. When about dry, the sore spots may be touched up with equal parts of
water and oil of tar. In curing mange, the bedding must be changed every day, wash all woolen beddings once every week with hot water
in which has been placed Standard Oil of Tar."
There is no use in taking medicine unless you follow your doctor's advice, so
don't expect the desired result unless you follow directions, as one or two appli-
cations of a good mange cure will often cure a case that seems hopeless. Often
how bad a case it appears to be, if you go at it right and have the right remedy,
in fact, it is one of the easiest to cure of all troubles. The reason why so many people dread this disease because of their failure to cure what they wrongly supposed was incurable is because they do not know how to treat it properly.
It can also be cured and the treatment of which is given under that heading. Re-
member that if you have more than one dog, all others may get it unless you
give them a chance to get it first. It is best to keep dogs separate from each other.
Kennel or place for each dog to sleep is manifest in treating the dog for mange,
as thus you can disinfect his kennel and destroy the bedding, which are both
infected, whereas if your dog was sleeping any place he wanted to in your house.
84
DISEASES. 58
this would be a very difficult matter, and while you cured him he could again contract it by coming in contact with the parasites that had not been destroyed.
The "P. D. Q." Powder, advertised elsewhere, is especially adapted to disinfect the kennel and sleeping place, as you can dust it on the carpet without harming the carpet, afterward sweeping the room. After you have applied my skin cure all over the dog three or four times, it is then only necessary to apply to the nose, ears, and eyes, which are the most likely places for the dog to bite or rub against when he is in a state of irritation from the mange. You will find my remedy a great hair grower as well, and no danger at all if the dog should lick it off, as it is non-poisonous.
You need not have any fear of contracting mange from your dog; I have treated many cases for years past and never got it--not transmittable from the dog to man.
There are several skin diseases called by different names, or designated as different kinds of mange, but I have given for name, and the one we call common mange, which is known as mange of dogs. The internal remedies will cure them all, excepting that in some of them, as in eczema, internal remedies must also be used at the same time to work on the blood. Eczeema is fully treated elsewhere. Carbolic acid is used in many mange cures; a dangerous ingredient unless carefully used and in small quantities.
Harry W. Lucy, Kennel Editor of American Stock-keeper, has this to say of mange:
"It is quite true that eczema or red mange is to some extent contagious, but we have not found it to be so to any extent which would justify the term being applied to it. It is desirable, always to keep a dog affected with skin disease away from other dogs, because constant contact in the kennel or at play is liable to spread it. The best treatment for mange is a thorough bath with hot water and disinfectant, which is very contagious, is made to give it to animals which never come near him, and a dog with fleas will furnish a supply to all his fellows in the neighborhood. The best way to prevent mange is to keep the dog away from the victim with another mange cur, but is due to out-and-out neglect. Mange is never known in kennels where the dogs are properly looked after; it is a cultivation of the backyard, and thrives best upon the poor chained-up brute that is more than usually exposed to the elements."
In a word, fitch is the soil on which alone the arsopatic parasite can thrive.
"A dog with ordinary skin irritation, developing into redness and rash, has required that in one of two ways. Either he has an hereditary predisposition to it or he has been exposed to some external cause. The latter is very common fact, and is due undoubtedly in a great measure to the in-breeding which has been carried on to a greater or less extent in all breeds) or else he has been impure in the blood which may be due to over-fevering or liver complaint. In either case it is by no means probable that a cure will be effected, and the most important thing that can be done is in the direction of preventing the disease from recurring. If a dog becomes affected with mange from another dog it should be mated with the newest blood possible; that is to say with an animal having a very different pedigree from its own. The disease is certain to reappear even after the dog has been apparently cured. A change of diet or of weather will always be liable to precipitate a fresh attack."
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
The following treatise on mange was written by Dalziel, and to its own atten-
tion is called. A very able handling of the subject:
SARCOPTIC MANGE. The mite producing this most nearly resembles the
itch-mite of man, and as it is propagated by eggs, and transmitted by contact,
direct or indirect, there seems nothing improper in the idea of stamping out this
condition of the human body, which is so prevalent among us. It is up to the
owner to be careful and clean. There is much virtue in an "if"; but at least we
can learn from the facts about the mange-mite that we need not harlot it in our
country, nor do we need to fear it in our homes. The mange-mite is a very
hairy larval and encourages mange, although it does not produce it; left un-
treated by cleaning processes, the pests breed and multiply with great rapidity.
When the mite pierces the dog's skin, it burrows into the hair follicles, and
also a sebaceous gland, thus to the creature, cause intolerable itching, and
to relieve this the dog scratches, with the result that the skin is broken, small
red points appear, and these become pustular and discharge a fluid which dries or crusts over. This crusts are removed by scratching, and the dog becomes
the cause of the evil if raged, and left unchecked, the whole surface of the body soon
becomes involved, while the poor dog is an object of pity, and from want of rest
and other causes sinks into a helpless condition. This state is often called viru-
lent mange. The mange-mite is a small white worm-like creature; its head is
skin is harsh, dry, and rough, until small pimples appear, when therefore occurs a
purulent matter, forming scabs, which mat the hair together, and bring it off in
a mass. The mange-mite burrows into the hair follicles and sebaceous glands;
the thighs are generally the first places attacked, and every crease and wrinkle in
the skin becomes inflamed and moist with the irritating disease. If the disease is
left unchecked, it soon extends over the whole body, reducing the dog to a
destitute condition. The mange-mite is found in all climates. There are severe and extreme cases. In others a dry, scurfy mange exists, marked by little red spots, and confined to the joints of the legs, over the eyes, the flaps of
the ears, etc., but these are easily cured without other damage than caus-
ing the dog great uneasiness and injury to his hair coat. The mange-mite destroys
the hair and robbing it of its natural glossy appearance.
The first thing to be done with a mangy dog is to wash him. Let him have a
good soaking bath with soap and water; then rub him down with a towel; if he
so boggles as to turn him red," dry well with a soft cloth which must immediately
be changed, and then dress him with one or the other of the several well know
mange cures. Whatever you use, see that it is applied thoroughly; see that it re-
moves all skin dirt; see that it does not merely lie on the hair. Chronic cases of mange often take a month or two to cure. Sulphur is given as an in-
ternal remedy for mange, but it is not of any use.
FOLIULAR MANGE is due to another mite (Demodex follicularum), very different from Sarcoptes. This mite lives in hair follicles only; whereas this, the Demodex, is elongated, and with a long, obtuse tail,
parasites differ in their habits. The Demodex living in the hair-follicles, and
burrowing deep under the skin in the sebaceous gland that supplies the uncious
mucus which keeps them moist. The hairs grow through these pores; hence,
burrows renders Follicular Mange much less ease of transmission between dogs;
but it also makes a cure much more difficult, as the parasites are hard to reach.
This mite is identical with a parasite found in the human skin causing some
disgustation of the face; but further than that it does no harm until transferred
DISEASES.
87
to the dog, when it causes a most repulsive disease, and one very difficult to eradicate.
Some few years ago Mr. Wm. Hunting, F.R.C.V.S., in conjunction with Pro-
fessor Duguid, made a series of investigations and experiments in elucidation of
the nature of the disease. The symptoms of the disease and the diagnosis are
from an article by the former gentleman, which appeared in the Veterinary
Journal, and afterwards in pamphlet form.
The symptoms of the disease are seldom seen in the first stages; they consist merely in a slight swelling of the skin, which may be noticed on the neck or on
a noticeable few small pimples. These pustules extend rapidly, and fresh ones appear on other parts. Any portion of the skin may be affected, but the head,
legs, belly, and sides, are usually the seat of the disease. The affected places are
covered with a thin crusty scab, which is easily removed by scratching. The
pustules situate the surface, the latter varying in size from a pin's head to that of a
pea. The confluence of the pustules, and the discharge of their contents, give
rise to a considerable amount of pus, which is often very offensive to the nose.
In white-haired dogs the skin is red, in all it is extremely hot, and emits an
pleasant odour. The irritation does not excite much scratching, but the dog fre-
quently shakes himself. More pain than itching seems to accompany the disease,
and this is increased by cold weather. In warm weather the animal is not
in cold weather the total loss of hair may cause death, if the animal be not kept in a warm place. This stage, too, is always accompanied by ravenous appetite; due probably, to the rapid loss of animal heat.
The second stage develops after a few days; it may cause the disease to be mistaken for 'Red Mange' or 'Eczema'. The circumcised apats in the first
stages may be confounded with some forms of Tinea, and the loss of hair and the
presence of scabs seen in the fully developed disease may easily be mistaken for
scabies. The appearance of these diseases is so similar that it is sometimes
difficult to diagnose them correctly. The diagnosis of scabies can only be made by:the aid of the microscope and the detection of the parasite. It is
very difficult to detect this parasite in its early stages; it is found only on the hair root.
The scabs are easily discovered. I have found as many as thirty to one pustule.
Sometimes we may detect them on the root of a hair removed from an affected spot.
With a low power, the parasites somewhat resemble spiro or miteshaw, but
under high power they are seen to be long oval bodies with two heads situated
in a long and obliquely pointed tail. They are furnished with six or eight legs
situated on the anterior part of the body; three or four on each side. The head
is covered with short hairs; these hairs are so short that they do not move forward or backward. The legs consist of three segments. The movements
of the creature are not often seen, and are very slow. The parasite measures about one-hundredth of an inch in length by one-fiftieths in breadth.
In regard to treatment Fleming, in Veterinary Seminary Journal, says:
"The treatment of this disease is simple; it consists in applying a parasitical remedy; the disease it engenders is therefore looked upon as extremely trouble-
some, and in the majority of cases, almost beyond a cure. Often, when it is be-
ginning to spread over large areas of skin, it becomes incurable."
Nevertheless Zorn asserts that he has frequently succeeded with an ointment composed of 1 part of benzoine to 4 parts of land. Zundel states that the balm
of Peru has often yielded good results when the malady has not been of too long duration; he has employed it dissolved in alcohol (1 to 30).
![]() A medical illustration showing various stages of a skin condition.
88
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
"I have had some experience of Follicular Mange, but principally with pugs.
In one case I had two sent to me in a very bad state, and both eventually became entirely denuded of hair. The treatment I adopted was washing—I might say scalding—of the dogs with hot water, and then applying a lotion of potassium, fully drying. One, the youngest, I painted over with a solution of iodide of potassium, 1 ounce in a pint of water, and after allowing it to dry, applied very freely Spratt's Mange Lotion. To the other, after drying, I applied the lotion mixed with a little oil of turpentine. Both dogs recovered in about three days. The other day. The dogs were in my possession ten weeks, by which time they were perfectly free from disease, and the re-growth of hair had made considerable progress. In another case I treated two pugs with the same result. When I first began treatment, after which I regulated the bowels as required by diet, increasing or decreasing the quantity of fresh vegetables, but no alternatives such as arsenic were employed. I did not find that the one treated with iodide of potassium showed any recovery than the other, and where I have had to prescribe since I have found similar treatments equally effective. The following is also useful in Follicular Mange:
Oil of Olive
1 pint
Oil of Castor Oil
1 pint
Sulphur
4 ounces
This should be well rubbed into the skin every third day, and the dog washed with warm water and soap, to which has been added a little soda, at the end of the week. In all cases of Follicular Mange it is well to shave all the hair off before applying this lotion.
MOUTH-CANKER OF THE E---This is generally the result of dainty feeding and lack of exercise, out in old dogs it may come from falling teeth and want of masticating power. Either or both of these causes lead to disordered stomach and foul breath; a despot of tartar takes place, the gums and lips become red, inflamed and swollen; the tongue becomes coated with a yellowish film often accompanied with bleeding. Old animals are most subject to this trouble, and by examining you will probably find some decayed teeth, the gums being so tender that in attempting to eat, the dog suffers great pain, which he will grow by his own tongue to relieve. It is not advisable to give him anything that drops it.
To cure the disease, remove the cause; if you have not trimmed the dog with due attention, examine its sensible way of feeding and give proper exercise. Examine his mouth carefully for decayed teeth, and if found, remove them and cut his jaw by having some one hold the dog's head firmly, and can be done more easily than cutting his neck. While his mouth is in such a tender state he must have food that requires no chewing, as well as to keep correct his disordered stomach. A vegetable diet is now the thing; give him quite a brisk dose of the following powder:
Powdered honey.................................................. 36 grains
Compound extract of colocynth................................. 36 grains
Powdered rhubarb..................................................... 48 grains
Extract of henna....................................................... 36 grains
Mix, and divide into twenty-four pills. Give for grown dogs from two to four pills, according to size.
![]() A page from a book about dogs.
DISEASES.
59
After a dose of this, then use the following:
* Extract of gentian ................................................ 1 dram
* Powdered rhubarb ................................................. 36 grains
* Carbonate of soda ............................................... 12 grains
Gum acacia sufficient to make into twelve 10-grain pills.
Very small toy dogs should have half a pill. Give these twice a day until all symptoms are gone.
A most excellent wash for the mouth in order to remove the unpleasant smell is a solution of chlorinated soda, diluted with twenty-four to thirty times its volume of water. Wash out the mouth freely with this several times a day.
The following will harden the gums and assist in bringing them to a healthy state: A teaspoonful of the powder of myrrh, 1 ounce; dissolve the album in a pint of water and add the tincture of turpentine, 1 dram.
The ulcers that occur upon the gums should be touched with a 10-per cent solution of nitrate of silver.
MILK-GLANDS, INFLAMMATION OF THE.—See MAMMITIS.
**MENINGITIS,**—Sec Brain, INFLAMMATION OF THE.
**MILK**, ABSENCE OF.—This trouble is quite too often met with in bitches, I regret to say. Usually the result of weakness, obesity, or disease of the mammary glands. It sometimes is luckily only temporary, and the secretion can be restored by friction to the glands with the hand. The following can be given to weakly bitches:
Tincture cinchona co. .......................................................... 1 ounce
Liquor cinchona .............................................................. ½ dram
Extracts of ammocarpum aromatic ........................................... 4 ounces
Water ............................................................................. 6 ounces
Doze, a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful three times daily; according to size of bitch.
**MAW-WORMS,**—See Worms.
**MAMMITIS,** (INFLAMMATION OF THE MILK-GLANDS) frequently occurs. Causes are, retention of milk, the result of taking away the puppies immediately after birth, or too early, or from their death, or cold or injuries. Symptoms are a redness and swelling of the glands, which may be accompanied by pain. In some companies it, the former if abscesses have formed. Very highly important that such cases should be attended to at once. As quick as first symptoms are noticed they must be treated. The best remedy is a poultice made from cinchona bark. If caused by the retention of milk by the bitch having lost her puppies, or she were taken away from her, the milk must be drawn away frequently by the hands. Where possible, and the bitch will permit, a puppy should be given her every morning and evening. The diet should consist of fresh vegetables and a solution of carbonate of soda twice daily in water, until the bowels are well relaxed. By adopting this treatment in the early stages the inflammation will usually subside without any other treatment being necessary. If it has been allowed to persist long enough, or if it is complicated by abscesses, and abscesses form. The latter must be evacuated by lanceing and boracic acid lotion or ointment applied to the part night and morning, and to prevent her from licking it she should have a muzzle with a piece of canvas sewn on it.
| Milk |
ABSENCE OF |
—See Brain, INFLAMMATION OF THE. |
| MAMMITIS |
(INFLAMMATION OF THE MILK-GLANDS) |
frequently occurs. |
| Causes |
are, retention of milk, |
the result of taking away the puppies immediately after birth, |
|
or too early, |
or from their death, |
or cold or injuries. |
|
or too early, |
or from their death, |
Symptoms are a redness and swelling of the glands, |
|
or cold or injuries. |
which may be accompanied by pain. |
In some companies it, |
|
the former if abscesses have formed. |
Very highly important that such cases should be attended to at once. |
|
|
As quick as first symptoms are noticed they must be treated. |
|
|
The best remedy is a poultice made from cinchona bark. |
|
If caused by the retention of milk by the bitch having lost her puppies, |
or she were taken away from her, |
|
the milk must be drawn away frequently by the hands. |
The diet should consist of fresh vegetables and a solution of carbonate of soda twice daily in water, |
until the bowels are well relaxed. |
|
By adopting this treatment in the early stages the inflammation will usually subside without any other treatment being necessary. |
|
If it has been allowed to persist long enough, |
or if it is complicated by abscesses,
and abscesses form.
The latter must be evacuated by lanceing and boracic acid lotion or ointment applied to the part night and morning, and to prevent her from licking it she should have a muzzle with a piece of canvas sewn on it.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
over the front. Where abscesses have formed, pockets of the gland will generally become ulcerated, and on no further use. Mammitis does sometimes assume a chronic form, the glands become enlarged and indurated.
**MILK FEVER** (PARCHMENT APOPLEXIA) is uncommon in the bitch. There is danger of causing it by robbing her of all her puppies, especially if she has plenty of milk, in case of where she has got out on you and bred to mistake one or more of your puppies for her own. If you do not want to keep them, but leave one to nurse for a week or so,
The symptoms are apparent weakness, staggering, quick, hard breathing, hot dry nose and tongue, the tongue furrowed; the milk is suppressed, and the bitch shows signs of distress.
**TREATMENT—Apply ice to the head, if possible; if not, then cold water often, and relieve the bowels by clysters. Keep her quiet and as little disturbed as can be, a soft bed provided so the head will be somewhat elevated. This is very im- portant. The dog must be kept warm. If necessary, give a few doses of quinine in hours in teaspoonful doses for ordinary sized dogs, for a day or two, until she is better, which will allay the fever. The bitch should be milked two or three times daily with a rubber bulb syringe. If the milk is not obtained by this means Milk Fever when the bitch is unconscious, nourishment, such as brandy and milk can be given per rectum. The bladder must be emptied by means of the catheter.
**NAVEL HERNIA, OR RUPTURE.—An enlargement of the navel, often met with in puppies, and may be simply an expansion of the same, or cleftaria. Navel hernia is the proportion of a portion of the intestines—the membraneous covering of the stomach—through a defect in the abdominal wall. In some cases the navel itself may extend into the wound. It is a soft, movable tumor over the navel, varying in size, and most prominent when the stomach and bowels are full. The dog is restless and frets about its belly. If it is not operated upon them, it doing no harm, and only leaving a small lump that was never noticed as they grew up, the hair on the belly hiding it. In treating puppies for it, wait till they are weaned and separated from their mother; or she will, with her tongue, remove it herself. When they are old enough to eat solid food give them their breakfast, when bowels are empty, lie him on his back on your lap, and place over the enlargement a pad of vulcanized India rubber or cork, tapered, the smaller end being applied on the upper after it has been pressed in, and the pad secured by elastic bandages. After this operation they will usually recover. A puppy can not scratch it off with its feet. A cure can be effected in a few weeks if the pad is kept in place.
Here is a case that was prescribed for by Drvst:
**My pointer puppy, ten weeks old, strong and healthy; has a rupture right under its navel; now 10 days old; has had a very large pea. Will it have any bad effect on the dog after being cured? Please tell me how long these ruptures frequently disappear with age and seldom cause any inconvenience. If you want to operate on the rupture, lay the dog on his back, pinch the skin up over the navel; then take hold of each side of the navel with your fingers and angles to each other, being careful not to puncture the intestines; then tie a silk cord around the skin between the body and the pins and allow it to stay there until it shrinks off."
**NEPHRITIS—see Kidneys, Inflammation of.**
DISEASES.
NOSTOMANIA (Home Sickness)—This is often seen in dogs which, from some cause or other, have to leave their home and friends, and reside for a time in a hospital. It therefore behoves every one who has charge of such dogs to make them comfortable, and treat them as nearly as possible, consistent with what is required by the nature of the case, as a humane and kind treatment. It is cruel to place a nervous and highly sensitive pet dog in a kennel surrounded by other dogs which are continually barking, or to give them over entirely to the care of a man who is not accustomed to the management of such an animal. The physician, or the veterinary surgeon, only attending at intervals. All pets should be taken into the house, or have a special place set apart for them, where they can receive personal attention and have their annual comforts attended to. This is especially necessary when the dog is confined in a hospital, but to keep it home where it will much better endure the ordeal it may have to go through, and have the surgeon come there to treat it. In this way it will receive, aside from the treatment of the doctor, the kind care and attention it could not get in a strange place, among strangers and strange surroundings.
OBEDIENCY—See FARTHY, EXCESSIVE.
OSTITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE MOUTH)—This is generally due to violence in eating or chewing hard food. The symptoms are pain, heat and swelling of the skin at the affected part, also lameness. Very essential in such cases is rest, combined with hot fomentations to the part and application of cold compresses. The use of tincture of iodine is very strongly recommended under Echinocarum should be adopted; and should there be an enlargement left after the acute inflammation has subsided, the part should be painted daily with tincture of iodine, unless soreness is produced, when this treatment should be discontinued.
OZENA.—This complaint shows itself by a discharge from both nostrils. The causes are diseased teeth, protracted catarrh, causing chronic inflammation of the lining membrane of the nose; polypi, or inflammation of the sinususes of the face; or any disease that produces an increase in the amount of mucus in due consequence; the latter should be extracted; or else polypi, these should be removed. The nostrils should be syringed night and morning with a saturated solution of boracic acid; or the tincture of hydrastis is often useful—I part water to equal quart of water. Exercises and fresh air are very necessary to recover.
POISONING.—A distinctly act is to poison a dog, and no punishment is too severe to inflict on the cowardly cur who does it. If I could have my way about this subject I would make it capital punishment for all who do it; but as we cannot punish properly fitting the crime. If you are so unfortunate as to have your dog poisoned, keep your eye open on your neighbors—who perhaps are unfortunate enough to degenerate into poisons—and never give us any thing that will lead the cur who poisoned your dog, and then, if you can not have positive proof enough to punish him or her legally, try some other plan quietly, and never give up until you have in some way punished the one who did it.
It may be of service to some readers to briefly refer to a few of the commoner and more popularly known poisons from which our dogs are most likely to suffer, and I think the following will cover the majority of cases: Arsenic; carbolic acid; carbolic acid; corrosive sublimate; phosphorus and arsphenic.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
As a general rule for distinguishing between the evidence of poisoning and
the symptoms of disease, the suddenness of the attack must weigh largely; while by tracing where the dog has been, and what he has or is likely to have picked up, a diagnosis may often be made.
The first step to be taken in most cases is to freely empty the stomach by means of emetics such as tartar emetic, nitrate of zinc, peacan nuts, wine, one of the most useful and least dangerous to use. This is done by having the dog at hand, by drenching with lukewarm water, and afterwards giving the antidote indicated if procurable.
If the dog suffer much pain, a dose of opium or laudanum every three or four hours will be found beneficial. If the dog is suffering from vomiting, an antispasmodic, either, wise, or brandy, should be given in small quantities at frequent intervals.
Arsenic is used to poison rats, mice and other vermin; in this way it is frequently met with in and about country houses.
Symptoms: Great heat and evident pain in the stomach and bowels, some- times accompanied by vomiting; the tongue being very tender to the touch—great thirst, frequent vomiting and retching, more or less discharge of a frothy saliva, and frequent evacuations of fluid, dark colored matter, often marked with blood. The animal soon becomes powerless to a great extent, showing no opposition to the pressure of the hands etc., are red and swollen, and the breathing is more and more labored and painful.
Antidote: Ferric or hydrated sesquioxide of iron, 13 grains which com-
bined with a part of the arsenic forms an insoluble salt. Also ligt magnesia,
which will give 1/5th its weight of water from its solution in water.
**CANTHARIDES (Spanish) FLY**—This is given by ignorant men for purposes
which are defeated; but being an acid, irritant poison, it produces serious
results, frequently causing inflammation of the urinary organs.
Symptoms: Vomiting, thrush, copious yellowish or blood-stained mucus from the
stomach; followed by swelling of the blood vessels of the tissues—the "flies"
there are great pains in the loins and bowels, swelling and inflammation of the
genital organs, and bloody stools and urine.
Antidote: An emetic should at once be resorted to, the dog should there-
wards be drenched with demulcents, and a dose of opium given every three or four hours.
Carbo Acidus. This produces benefical effects, even by absorption through
the peritoneal skin if too freely used. It causes great prostration with
trembling of the limbs.
Symptoms: Extraordinary depression of the vital powers, general shivering
and almost constant trembling of the limbs, and a paled motion of the head.
Dizziness and nausea are also often stained with blood; the countenance of the sufferer is expressive of a most helpless and painful state.
Antidote: The proper treatment consists in placing the dog in a warm bath
using frictional baths; and administering such stimulants as ammonia, ether
brandy, etc. in water or milk.
**Corrosive Sublimate** is used for a variety of purposes about farms, although for most of these it must be admitted a poisonous article would answer as well or better. Corrosive sublimate, phosphorous and strychnine each enter into the composition of paste and powders largely used for the destruction of vermin.
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And it is when no used, being placed on bread and butter, bite of meat, etc., that they are most likely to be picked up by the dog.
**Symptoms:** Violent vomiting and purging of stringy and offensive matter, the belly is distended and painful to the touch, the urine suppressed, cramp and (weak) convulsions noted in the limbs and frequent vomiting of white or yellowish matter, followed immediately by inflation of the stomach with gas or of the stomach with water. The chemical antides, the albumen of eggs is by far the best; the white of one egg is sufficient to neutralize 1000 cubic inches of a solid bichloride of mercury.
**Phosphorus-Antides:** Calcined magnesia, with dillens and demulcentes given in quantity.
**Strechnine-Symptoms:** Acute pain, causing the dog to utter sharp cries; frequent twitchings and jerkings of the head and limbs, the fore and hind legs are drawn towards each other, the back is arched, the flaps of cramp and twitching are observed; foaming at the mouth is another frequent symptom.
**Antides:** Give an emetic once, mustard and hot water, coffee, salt and vinegar.
"The following has saved many valuable dogs poisoned by strechnine and will save any dog if breath is left in body. As soon as the owner is convinced that the dog is strechnine, or dog button (sax vinum), symptoms of which are seen in the dog, give him a teaspoonful of a decoction made from the leaves of belladonna (green root). Give same dose after each spasm. If dog is too far gone to swallow, inject thirty drops in rectum. The second dose can be given by mouth. It is seldom the third dose is necessary." This I copied from a letter received from a friend who had been very successful in treating with his pointer. He further wrote: "When I reached him he had had some twelve spasms and was rigid, tongue cold, eyes turned, etc. Three doses brought the dog out of danger."
Here are also other antidotes that are used in cases of poisoning:
Strechnine is commonly used to poison dogs, and if noticed when taken sick, or even after violent convulsions have set in, they can almost invariably be saved by injecting under the skin, with hypodermic syringe, 10-grain doses of strychnine (or in liquid) every 15 or 20 minutes until 50 or 60 grains are used. If convulsions continue for more than two hours, then 30 or 40 grains have been given.
It will pay any one owning a number of dogs to keep a hypodermic syringe, size of dose depends upon the condition of the dog; in health the dose is 5 to 20 grains.
Dog poisoning is not prevalent in many parts of the country just now, it may not be out of place to reproduce part of Mr. A. J. Bewell's (the noted English veterinarian) article on this subject in the Kennel Gazette (Eng.), so that dog owners may be prepared for such emergencies:
"In all cases of poisoning, more especially when due to strychnine, prompt action must be taken to make the dog disappear what had been swallowed. An emetic that will act well and quickly must be used administered; for there is nothing better than a dose of apomorphine. This medicine acts in two ways; it is the quickest and surest quantic, and besides
94
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
It relieves the spasms. The dose is the eighth of a grain for small dogs, and about the quarter of a grain for the large ones, given in a teaspoonful of water; but the best way of administering it is by injecting it under the skin with a hypodermic syringe—then from three to eight minims of the one in fifty suffici-
ently.
"I always advise persons who keep a number of valuable dogs to have a solu-
tion of amorphous by them ready for emergency, for while it is being obtained they may be able to save their lives. It is a very good remedy for all cases of poison-
tion with them, many a valuable hound's life might be saved. When this medi-
cine is not at hand some other emetic must be given. Ordinary table salt can be
always quickly procured, and from one teaspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to the size of the dog, given in a glass of water. If the dog does not vomit
freely, repeat it in a few minutes, or, instead, give from five to twenty grains of powder (pecunia), or from one to three grains of tar emetic. Either of these medicines will often cause vomiting, but if it does not do so, then
how, but anything like milk requiring a quantity of water is often difficult to administer, as the dog's mouth is often tightly clenched and trying to open it induces a paroxysm, during which time it is impossible to give anything by the mouth. In such cases it is necessary to give the medicine by injection.
This may come in. This may also be repeated in a quarter of an hour if the vomiting has not been free. Besides the emetic some medicine is necessary to relieve the
spasms. For this purpose I recommend a mixture of saltpeter and brouille of potassium.
From fifteen grains to two scruples of each may be dissolved in half a
tablespoonful of water if the dog can be made to swallow, and half the quantity
of each may be given again in twenty or thirty minutes and repeated, if neces-
sary. If this fails, give one or two drops of tincture of opium or one or two
minims of nitrate of amyl held to the nose on a pocket handkerchief is useful.
This may be repeated in a quarter of an hour, or chloroform may be given.
Also inject into the rectum from one-half to two draughts of haemulon, in from one
to two ounces of water, and repeat every fifteen minutes until the paroxysms cease,
or in another fifteen minutes if the paroxysms continue. After the severe symp-
toms have passed and the dog is weak and prostrate, from one-half to two tea-
spoonfuls of brandy added to some milk may be administered and repeated every hour until he recovers.
GROUND-GLASS.—The symptoms are bloody menses, great pain and dis-
ease, and vomiting of blood. There is no cure for this, and it is merciful to destroy the poor animal at once, ending his suffering by chloroforming.
I cannot conclude this article by giving one that was published in the Ameri-
ca (Cock-Keeper).
"Phosphorus is a dangerous poison, and will be got from rat-paste which is
yet lying about, spread on bread and butter. For this give an emetic, followed by a draught of Magnesia and water. Afterwards milk and other demulcents,
with or without brandy, are given. The emetics are either Calomel, "White Precipitate," or "Corrosive Sublimate"—all of which are accessible to dogs at various times. Give large draughts of white of egg white or egg yolk; or give a syrup made from fresh fruit; or give a
violent purging; give little brandy; then substitute milk for water; and lastly use
about farms, and so is dangerous to dogs. Such animals pick up and devour dead birds in a corn field in which the seed has been dressed with this poison. Its
sideeffects are demulcent (after the usual emetic), such as white of egg and milk.
![]() A page from a book titled "EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS." The text discusses various remedies for dogs' ailments.
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and a little laudanum later. It will be seen from the foregoing that the treatment for all mineral poisons is very similar all round.
"Now, as to vegetable poisons, or, to be more precise, organic poisons (min-
eral being inorganic). The chief of these, as far as they affect dogs and their owners, are the various plants which contain alkaloids, and their various compounds or derivatives. First then, aconite, which is often given as a medicine, and of which it is easy to give an overdose. Give an ounce of this to a dog, and he will die within half an hour. Then try artificial respiration if need be. For Belladonna similar treatment is good. The drink of stimulants. Foxglove (Ligusticum)--often prescribed for heart affec-
tions in dogs, as well as in men--for this, after an emetic, give warm tea, fol-
lowed by a glass of water. Opium is another plant which has been used with a good effect, followed by a draught of brandy and water; every effort must be made to subdue convulsions by brisk exercise until the effect has worn off. Lastly, Strichnine is one of the most poisonous compound of all vermin killers--easily re-
cognised by its effect on the eyes. Give an ounce of strichnine to a dog; stric-
hnine Bromide every twenty minutes, and later a dose of Cautus Oil. Strichnine
is, as we have stated earlier, the most active principle of Nux Vomica."
PARASITES, EXTERNAL.--The number and variety of parasites that make one's life miserable are legion. They may attack the skin externally or internally and internal; in the former two distinct modes, producing two very distinct forms of the mange, have already been referred to, and the internal parasites are treated under Worms. One can only gain much experience who is not aware that great care and cleanliness are needed to prevent the introduction of these unwelcome visit-
ors, or who has not had to pay smartly for their extermination, if his kennels are infested with them. The parasites to which I particularly wish to direct atten-
tion are three in number: the louse, the flea and the tick--which now follow in order named as to treating.
Dog Louse.--These resemble that of a man, only larger in size, and can not live without its host. It is easily removed by washing the animal with soap and water whilst combing it himself constantly. They live on all, or any part of the body, but most abundant about the head and face, the eyes, roots of ears and along the top of the back. By closely examining the dog's skin, red streaks and dots of blood will be found where lice have been feeding.
One species is described in Dr. Homan's "Parasites," translated by Prof. Fleming:
"The head is short and almost as wide as long; it is salient in the thorax so that it is exactly applied; the third and fourth articles of the antennae are alike. The abdomen is very developed in the female, and is a long oval in shape; it has nine rounded segments, which are often silted at the sides; stigmata
are present and marginal hairs are present on the second segment; the
female is yellowish-white, the male and those being of little dark.
The female is 2mm. long, and the male 15mm." This louse is oftener found
along the throat and back of the ears, but extends to all parts of the body.
The flea.--This insect is described by Dr. Homan as follows: "According to
his description: 'The head is sub-quadranular and much wider than it is long,
being truncate in front; the antennae are hairy and differ in the two sexes,
the first article in the male being much thicker, and occupying a moiety of the
length of the organ.' The abdomen is broad, and mesosoma rounded in the female,
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
with lateral, but no median spots. The color is bright yellow, spots darker; the bands on the head are blackish-brown. Length of the female is 1-4mm., of the male 1-4mm.
My dog soap will destroy flea if thoroughly and well rubbed in, allowed to remain on the dog for half an hour, when you can rinse off and dry the dog. If in winter, cold or damp weather, you must be careful and not expose dog to danger of catching cold. It is the only preparation in the way of a dog soap that will kill flea, containing one ingredient which is a powerful poison. It is and yet perfectly harmless to the dog, even if he should lick it, being non-poisonous as well as being excellent for the coat and a great hair grower. I may add that this soap is very useful in the treatment of fleas on dogs, as it is good for his dog. In using my soap to rid a dog of flea, give dog a moist thorough showwashing with your hands, not missing a spot on his body from tip of nose to end of tail. Rub as close up to and around the eye as you can without getting it into his eyes. Repeat this application the same way twenty-four hours later, this is good for the youngsters that breed every twenty-four hours.
The best time to wash a dog is in the morning after he has been out in time in lukewarm water and dry thoroughly with a rough towel. The same care as to dog being exposed to cold air or draughts must be exercised as in an ordinary bath. My soap can well be termed a wonderful discovery, and it is without doubt a great boon to all who have dogs.
Here is another treatment to give—which I found in some dog paper:
Lice, the presence of which gives rise to the affection sometimes termed phtiriasis, are of common distribution, as parasitic throughout the animal kingdom, but most frequently found on the human race, and especially on the Trichodectes latius. The first of these, as a rule, is chiefly found about the head, ears etc., but may wander over any part of the body: the second is found over various other parts of the body, and appears to play an important part in removing lice from their natural home. The third is known as an "intermediary bearer" of the internal parasite, which finds its way into the alimentary canal through the accidental swallowing by the dog, of the external parasite.
Both species of parasite are destitute of wings, yellowish grey or yellow in color, and have their mouths specially adapted for sucking. Pediculi always cause more or less itching, consequently a tendency to scratch. This is not all, but they also cause considerable annoyance by their constant scratching.
The female is larger than the male, and deposits her eggs, or nits, upon the hairs, attaching each one thereto by a tough transparent sheath. The female lays from two hundred to three hundred eggs per day.
Pediculosis. It is not usually a very difficult matter to get rid of lice. Thorough cleanliness is essential, with disinfection and destruction of all material with which the animal has been in contact. Sucking pips are frequently affected, in which case the treatment must be directed to both parent and offspring. After washing with soap and water, rub with a solution of 1 oz. Borax to 1 gallon water; then wash with soft soap and warm water, afterwards dressed with the following solution: Stannicum reeds 1 ounce, water 1 quart. The seed must be boiled for about an hour in water, and then adding sufficient water to bring it up to a quart again. With this the lice should be thoroughly dressed from
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head to tail, taking care not to leave one hair untouched. It is certain death to both parasite and eggs. After 24 hours it may be washed off, and if neces-
sary, applied again. The sucking pupi must be combed before being given back to their mother.
The young may also be dressed with the same solution, but it should be diluted, five ounces of camphor being added to five ounces of camphor water. Of course washing is here inadmissible. Another remedy, which is equally effective, consists in giving the dog a bath of salt for months of its life. For animals of a mature age, it may be used of the ordinary strength.
The following will also destroy lice:
Flour of sulphur............................................. 1 pound
Unslaked lime.................................................. ½ pound
Water.............................................................. 1 gallon
Slake the lime in the water, stir in the sulphur, adding water gradually until it is of a creamy consistency, then add the remainder of the gallion and boil down to half a gallon. This will make a good poultice. Close liquid will kill the
quarantine two and a half quarts with cold water. If the coat and skin is thoroughly saturated with this, and left on for ten minutes, the vermin will all be dead, when the dog should then be well washed, using warm water, and thor-
oughly dried with clean towels. The dog should then be given a bath of warm water,
dogs with tender skins, and can be reduced in strength by adding equal parts of
water to one of the lotion. If any doubt exists as to this, first try the weaker
solution.
Another and a harmless and non-poisonous remedy for lice is Eucalyptus' Sine Curus, which will do the work if well rubbed in, never missing a spot on the
dog, allowed to remain in for half an hour, and applied again twenty-four hours later.
These dressings should be repeated in eight days, in order to destroy the
young lice from the "nits," or eggs, laid before the previous dressing.
**FLEAS**—There are familiar to every one, I mean the fleas that are found
on dogs, and no description is really necessary. There are a number of good
remedies.
Eucalyptus' Dog Soap is the easiest and surest remedy for fleas of anything
made and much less trouble to use. All your dog needs is a good shampoo with
this soap twice, twenty-four hours apart. After applying it thoroughly all over
the dog's body, rub his coat with a soft cloth or sponge until it is thoroughly wet,
then rinse the dog in lukewarm water and dry thoroughly with rough towels.
There is, however, nothing—unless you would keep some preparation on the dog
all the time in summer—that will get rid of fleas more quickly than Eucalyptus'
Dog Soap. In winter, you may do if he meets another dog that has them,
when your dog is certain to get a new supply. If all his bedding is not destroyed
while being treated, or his sleeping box not thoroughly disinfected, he will acquire them again. To get rid of fleas in his sleeping box, basket or kennel, and then scrub it out with some good disinfectant; getting into the cracks and corners with Standard Oil of Tar or Sanitas,
either of which will do the work. Floss bread every twenty-four hours so that in
using my soap you must give the second bath twenty-four hours later to destroy
the young ones.
Dogs which have dense, long coats are subjects of special delight to the flea.
The mouth of the flea is specially adapted for sucking; the wings are rudimentary, being reduced to about four minute scales. The louse is a feathery worm, which in twelve days, evolutions of its eggs (i. e., larvae) and pupae of silk, becomes itself, and becomes a chrysalis, from which the perfect flea emerges in about a fortnight more.
It is also some home-made remedies that you can try—they will all kill fleas—but my soap is so sure, so pleasant to use, and also so beneficial to the coat that it seems foolish to try anything else. One of the most useful of all oils of clover is oil of methylated spirit. Directions: Apply all over after washing. Or, teabed 1 pint of water with 1 oz. of oil of clover, and boil down to 1 pint. Apply on the coat with a lint, and sulphur lotion, made by boiling 16 ounces of sulphur with half this quantity of slaked lime in a solution of water, the whole being boiled down to 2 quarts and filtered. Apply as above. Or, methylated sulphur 4 ounces, powdered camphor 1 ounce, powdered resin 1 ounce, and 3 ounces of oil of clover in the hair.
The "P. D. Q." (Powder advertisement) will also kill fleas if put on its right side. Put on a white sheet or cloth, then powder freely into his coat, and over the body, and with your hands rub it in well. You will see the fleas come out of their Lair and drop onto the cloth. This "P. D. Q." is a splendid article to thoroughly disfigure the dog's coat; but do not apply it to any part that you wish to live in it. I can send you this powder by mail at twenty-five cents a pound, but sixteen cents must be added to pay Uncle Sam to bring it to you.
Tickle resembles in appearance a spider, to which, in fact, they are related, varying greatly from one another in size and color. They are found on the skin of man and beast; many of them are nothing on with such tenacity as frequently to part from the attempt to remove it. They are less common and less known than either the flea or louse. The color of the smaller ones is in a light grey, but become dark when they feed upon the blood; while those larger ones are blackish brown or pesta, but you must rub it in well to kill them, and all over the body. In using it, after leaving on the dog for fifteen minutes, you can then rinse off and dry dog; this getting rid of the tickles is sometimes costly. Ticks occasionally occur even in dogs that have been kept kennelled; but if, on contact with them, they sometimes come in contact with other dogs so infected. Once ticks make their appearance lose no time in ridding the dog of them.
**PNEUMONIA.—See LUNG.** Inflammation of the lungs is an inflammation of the sub- pleural membrane; it may be caused by exposure to cold and damp. The first stage of the disease is announced by shivering, followed by fever. Sometimes, in the worst cases, it is accompanied by pleurisy, which is inflammation of what is called the lung sac; in such instances it usually proves fatal. In fact, whether this pneumonia is or is not accompanied by pleurisy there is always some risk of a fatal termination.
Pneumonia admits of no treatment inasmuch as it must be treated at once by injection or by application of ammonia to reduce the fever; but this has never been first given in a liberal dose. The dose of solution of acetate of ammonia for a matured dog (over a year old) would be for a fox terrier or ad English setter; an amountive four or three hours until fever is subdued Larger dogs only like St. Bernard's present or a Great Dane; a teaspoon and a half could cure it properly if given. If the malady is not checked at this date, it quickly passes on into a
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second stage, when hapatization takes place. The cough now is frequent and accompanied by expectoration, and respiration is performed with great effort and pain, and the general expression is haggard and pitiful in the extreme. When it has reached this stage a warm poultice of linseed meal should be placed in the rectum, and the patient should be kept in bed. The patient will soon recover after the first poultice a piece of flannel is bound over the spot, lest the patient should take a fresh chill.
A good diet has been substituted, but treatment will be necessary, and for this there is nothing better than quinine, the dose of which will be about two grains every three hours for setters and pointers, and more in proportion for larger dogs. For toy or smaller dogs one grain is enough. Solid food must be entirely withheld until the condition improves. A good diet consists of boiled meat, rice, milk, broth, etc. Finally, the cure will have to be made complete by a course of some good tonic pill, in which iron is one of the ingredients. Clayton's or Sebright's Dog's Condition Pills are good to use now. I can furnish either by return mail if you want any fine dog medicine for your own town.
PERITONITIS.
--- Bowel Inflammation
PENIS, DISCHARGE FROM (Balantiose).--A great many dogs suffer from an inflammation and excited state of the organs of generation, having frequent par- tial erections, with a discharge of a thick yellowish matter, very loathsome if in a house dog. Treatment consists in bathing the parts frequently with cold water, giving quite a strong hot ordinary black draught and the following medicine:
Blancmange of sugar 3 drams
Blancmange of potato 2 drams
Tincture of hennane 3 drams
Minderbore spirit 1½ ounces
Water 1 pint
Dose for a toe up to 20 lbs., a teaspoonful four or five times a day. Larger dogs a tablespoonful. The propulse should also be syringed with weak Condy's Fluid or a solution of boric acid, one scrupule to six ounces of water. Give the dog harley water to drink and very little meat. Milk and butter are chopped green vegetables (cooked) would be most useful in such cases.
PARALYSIS.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. If one side of the brain is affected, the opposite side of the body will be paralyzed; but if the whole of the brain is implicated, the paralysis will be general. When it affects only one part of the body it is called hemiplegia; when both sides are affected. Paralysis often follows disentire; the hindquarters suffer; in severe cases the dogs losing the use of his hind legs, dragging them along. In such a case the muscles of the thigh will soon shrivel, and at first they appear to be stiffening; but as time goes on they become flaccid and at last are lost as the result of general debility and old age. Belindes in dumb rables may that paralysis of the lower jaw renders the animal incapable of biting. Most everyone is familiar with the appearance of paralysis in horses; but few know how common it is among dogs; it occurs in the part affected. Paralysis may be general, but is in most cases confined to one set of muscles, ranging from a slight tottering gait to complete loss of power and inability to walk. Loss of power and wanting of the hindquarter may also be caused by tetanus. So long as the dog can use his limbs he should be given
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
A great many dogs suffer from an inflammation and excited state of the organs of generation. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Having frequent partial erections, with a discharge of a thick yellowish matter, very loathsome if in a house dog. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Treatment consists in bathing the parts frequently with cold water, |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
giving quite a strong hot ordinary black draught and the following medicine: |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Blancmange of sugar 3 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Blancmange of potato 2 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Tincture of hennane 3 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Minderbore spirit 1½ ounces |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Water 1 pint |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Dose for a toe up to 20 lbs., a teaspoonful four or five times a day. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Larger dogs a tablespoonful. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
The propulse should also be syringed with weak Condy's Fluid or a solution of boric acid, |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
one scrupule to six ounces of water. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Give the dog harley water to drink and very little meat. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). |
Milk and butter are chopped green vegetables (cooked) would be most useful in such cases. |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. |
If one side of the brain is affected, the opposite side of the body will be paralyzed; |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. |
but if the whole of the brain is implicated, the paralysis will be general. |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. |
When it affects only one part of the body it is called hemiplegia; |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. |
when both sides are affected. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | A great many dogs suffer from an inflammation and excited state of the organs of generation. |
|-------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Having frequent partial erections, with a discharge of a thick yellowish matter, very loathsome if in a house dog. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Treatment consists in bathing the parts frequently with cold water,... |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | giving quite a strong hot ordinary black draught and the following medicine: |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Blancmange of sugar 3 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Blancmange of potato 2 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Tincture of hennane 3 drams |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Minderbore spirit 1½ ounces |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Water 1 pint |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Dose for a toe up to 20 lbs., a teaspoonful four or five times a day. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Larger dogs a tablespoonful. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | The propulse should also be syringed with weak Condy's Fluid or a solution... |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | one scrupule to six ounces of water. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Give the dog harley water to drink and very little meat. |
| Penis, Discharge From (Balantiose). | Milk and butter are chopped green vegetables (cooked) would be most useful in such cases. |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | when both sides are affected.... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | when both sides are affected.... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | when both sides are affected.... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | when both sides are affected.... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | when both sides are affected.... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | If one side of the brain is affected,... |
|--------------------------------------------------------------|--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | but if the whole of the brain is implicated,... |
| Paralysis.--Paralysis is due to pressure or injury of brain or spinal cord. | When it affects only one part of the body it... |
| Paralysi
I00
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
regular gentle exercise. The food must be nourishing and rather laxative. Oat-
meal porridge mixed with a strong beef or mutton broth, every other day, will
generally have a gentle action on the bowels, with a meal once a week of boiled
liver, and a little milk.
If the disease is connected with debility the strength must be gotten up by extra food, giving more than usual of cooked meat, in small quantities but fed
oftenish than usual. The dog must be given a good deal of fresh water.
One of the best of the venoms--which has a special power over the muscles and
nerves. One to three grains of powdered nux vomicus according to size and age
of the dog, or from one-twentieth to one-nineteenth of a grain of strychnine, with
two drops of brandy, or one drop of brandy and one drop of water, in each pill.
Great care must be used in compounding the pills, containing as they do
such a powerful drug as strychnine. Give a pill twice a day. In mild cases or
paralysis, syrup of nux vomicus may be substituted for the pills. In lieu of the latter tonics, a handler thing to do is to use
Sergent's Combination Pills, which contain strychnine and other good tonic prop-
erties. In paralysis of the hind legs the bladder generally participates, the dog
being unable to urinate. In such cases night and morning, or the dog held up and pressure applied to each side in
the region of the bladder to expel its contents. As a preventive of bed sores
and congestion of one lung the dog over occasionally.
In cases where I have prescribed this remedy
"Please prescribe for my English setter dog eight months old. Last November I hunted him through the month, in December he lost the use of his hindlegs, and in January seemed to lose the use of all four legs; appetite was good at all times,
eyesight was perfect. I gave him two grains of strychnine daily for about six weeks,
him a whole rhumatism but stopped about four weeks ago, and about one
week ago he seemed to get a little better. Can now use his front legs, can manage
to sit up and draw himself around with a half limp, the back legs being useless
now. Please give him two grains of strychnine daily for another month. Also give
spoonful of the syrup of hypophosphates three times a day, also give one-half grain
of nux vomicus twice a day. It is paralysis."
The following is a case of Partial Paralysis or congestion of the spinal cord,
prescribed for by Drxv. You might have a similar case, so I give it:
"My pointer dog, three years old, weight forty pounds. He has taken sick last November. He has been out hunting since great work; will now lie
around and at times cry from pain; he will crawl around on his front feet and
drag his hindquarters when first taken out of the kennel, then will gradually go-
ing forward until he can walk on all four feet; will lie down on his front feet,
and in a few moments will get up on all four feet, but walks very stiffly
and only remains up for a short time until he goes down. Please name disease
and treatment. Ans.--Give your dog one-half grain of nux vomicus five drops.
Five drops of brandy and five drops of water. Give one-half grain of hy-
phosphates of Soda three times a day. The disease is a partial congestion of the spinal cord."
PAPALYSIS IN BONES BEFORE PERTHMENT.—The following case is,
I am glad to say most common. Mr. Caswell, of England, furnishes this experience;
and I report it so he gives me permission to publish it similar cases that they occur.
It is probable that the extreme hot weather contributed to the develop
ment of the disease. The treatment was about the best and all that could have been done:
"Within the past month I have had three dogs bitten upon shorty before whelping, all exhibiting the same symptoms, viz., paralysis of the hind-quarters and great labor in breathing; for this I gave stimulants (whisky) and a few doses of opium, but they did not improve. In the first case labor pains came on and the bitch had one pup, after which paralysis set in again and the bitch died. Post-mortem appearances showed that the cause of death in this case was peritonitis. In the second case the paralysed stage was again tried, and even though the bitch seemed very far gone, she revived. The best obtainable veterinary surgeon was in attendance, and decided to wait until the puppies were born, which they did, and the bitch delivered two more and she had five healthy pups, and is nursing them now very well. The third case started with paralysis and the bitch revived two or three times under treatment as before, then died without pupping. Post-mortem revealed three pups, but no other signs of disease. The bitch was kept in bed for several days at her usual time. She showed normal appearance, was in excellent condition had been kept in a large run and given exercise daily, as were the others.
This is my first time that I have seen these cases in ten years of breeding.
The dogs are kept in a large run where they can get right outside. Can you tell me the cause, as the veterinarians about me seem unable to do so? Also if the extremely hot weather has anything to do with it."
**PILEs**—This occurs more frequently in house dogs or those confined too closely to their kennel being an enlarged condition of the hemorrhoidal veins at the lower part of the rectum, increasing an enlargement of the anus and temporary obstruction when certain foods are eaten by dog or man along the ground. Piles are internal and external as they exist within or without the muscle that contracts the orifice of the anus. The disease is readily ascertained by a careful examination of the anus. It is caused by over-eating, food produced by over-feeding with too much stimulating food, want of sufficient and healthful exercise, producing diseases of the liver, constipation of the bowels, consequent straining and undue distension of the parts to the act of defecation. A small portion of boiled liver may be allowed with broth or in soups, oatmeal well boiled and vegetable. As a mild aperient a little milk of magnesia may be given in milk or with water. A good remedy is a decoction made from 100 grams of cinchona bark and smaller in proportion. Here are some cinchuntas, either of which can be used.
**Gincoirts for Piles:** Mild mercurial ointment, 7 parts, finely powdered camphor, 1 part, well mixed; or the compound gallant ointment of the Pharmacopoeia may be used. Hellebore is also very beneficial.
**Cats:** This disease may be treated by: Tincture of kramera, 2 drams, water to 6 ounces. Two ounces should be injected twice a day; while in all cases of Piles $y_{2}$ dram to 2 drams of tincture kramera in water, twice a day, will be useful.
A decoction made from 100 grams of cinchona bark and smaller in proportion. A decoction of pills or tumors forms near the orifice of the rectum; it is at first red, but afterward becomes purple, and finally discharges a thick fetid matter with blood. It forms a ragged sore, difficult to heal from movements of the dog in the natural act; and from dragging himself along the ground. Similar
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
treatment to that already advised should be given, using the ointment and washing with the following lotion alternately.
1 pint of blackboard's water; ½ pint; laudanum, ½ ounce; tincture of anisic, ¼ ounce; mixed.
PERIOSTITITIS (INFLAMMATION OF THE PERIOSTITIS, THE MEMBRANE COVERING OF THE BONE) is not often met with in the dog, usually arising from direct injuries. It is a most painful disease, the membrane becomes greatly inflamed and swollen, and the bone is very sensitive to the touch. The swelling is often so great that the lumps that are unlightly. The symptoms are heat and swelling of the skin over the affected parts, great pain upon manipulation, feverishness and lameness when it occurs in a limb. Quiet is very essential. Apply hot flannels to the part, or, if necessary, apply a poultice of laudanum and tincture of anisic. When the swelling has left the part, paint these with tincture of iodine, discontinuing this when the skin becomes sore. I prefer to apply Vaseline full strength, as it does not make the skin sore, and can be well rubbed in with the hand, twice daily.
PARTURIENT APOPLEXY.--See MILK FEVER.
PLEURISIS.--See Inflammation of Lungs.
PHARYNGITIS (Inflammation of the Pharynx).--This disease frequently affects dogs. True pharyngitis is usually due to some foreign body lodged in the pharynx, although it has been caused by strong drugs given with the object of stimulating the appetite. The symptoms are a dry, irritating cough and a difficulty in swallowing. There may be a marked increase in pain in swallowing; a contraction of the muscles of the throat shown, and upon manipulation the pain is plainly shown. The opening of mouth and exam-ination of the throat will show that unless inflammation exists there is no checked ulceration of the throat will follow quickly. An abscessous form, which will cause a discharge through the nostrils.
TREATMENT.--Ascertain the cause and try to remove it. If condition is due to foreign body, wash out with hot fomented poultice (kept in posi- tion by a bandage) applied to the neck. Nothing solid must be given to eat, feed milk, eggs or Bovine. This simple treatment will generally effect a cure, but should ulceration occur, then paint the part with a weak solution of nitrate of silver or with a poultice of laudanum and tincture of anisic. Then brush with camomile hair brush. If ulceration is severe and granulations present, touch the latter with "London Paste," best applied on the point of a probe, around which is smeared with a little oil. This will help to remove all loose and putrid contents. The dog will be left in a debilitated state when the acute symptoms have subsided, due to the general constitutional disturbance accompanying the disease. A bone should now be given. Clayton's or Dent's Condition Pills will be beneficial.
POLYPUS.--A tumor growing on some mucous membrane, the nose, or the vaginal passage being attacked by a stalk or pedicle, varying in length and thick-ness. The tumor is smooth, of a red color, shaped like a pea and when small is concealed from view, but protrudes as it grows. It discharges a mucoas matter either from its base or from its top. The treatment is simple, consisting in the removal of the polypus by tying a white silk thread or piece of fine silver wire around the neck. Tighten this daily until it disappears.
![]() A medical illustration showing inflammation of the pharynx.
DISEASES.
108
for a few days, until the neck is cut through and the tumor drops off. Then bathe the part freely with Goudard Water. If fever exist, a dose of cooling medicine will suffice, but this is rarely ever necessary.
PROLAPSUS ANI.--This sometimes occurs in pampered house dogs that are old and too fat, and from insufficient exercise which produces constipation and causes straining. The protruding part should be cleaned, pressed back into place, and cold poultice used frequently. Diet should be laxative and exercise must be given to the whole animal; a stitch or two can be inserted. The diet must then consist entirely of milk.
PROLAPSUS, OR FALLING OF THE VAGINA is characterized by a soft, red swelling, and generally occurs during, or immediately after the period of heat. It must be carefully washed with lukewarm water and gently returned to its place. The dog should then be used for a few days, and one of the powders given twice a day.
Injections for Prolapsus--Tannic acid and glycerine, 1 ounce; water to make a pint. Or tincture of kermesine, 2 drams; water to make 6 ounces. Two ounces to be given every other day.
Astringent Powder for Prolapsus--Take garlic acid 18 grains; alum, 12 grain; mix, and divide into six equal portions, and give one twice a day, first dissolving them in hot water, but allowing them to cool before administration. This does well for an ordinary sized dog; but for a larger up to a St. Bernard, Toy dogs, etc., use 30 grains of the powder.
Failing of the vagina must not be confounded with inversion of the womb, which occasionally happens after pupping, and which can only be safely treated by a qualified veterinarian.
PULSE.--See Temperature and Pulse.
PURGATIVE.--This is a complaint in many diseases, but it may exist simply from temperature or irritation of the stomach; or from some irritating substance taken into the system in cases a dose of castor oil and extra attention to diet is all that is necessary.
POLYPLI.--Tumors growing on some mucous membrane, the nose, ear, anus or vagina. These tumors are most common when the skin is thickened at the base or pedicle varying in length or thickness, red in color and smooth and pear-shaped. They vary in size; when small are concealed from view, but protrude as they grow. A mucous mass, lustrous with blood and offensive in smell is sometimes discharged.
Treatment.--The tumor should be removed by an incision made through the skin tightly around the neck of the polypil till the neck is cut through and the tumor drops off. They can also be removed by an ecréuseur, an instrument made for this purpose. Bathe the part freely for a few days with Goudard Water.
RHUMATISM.--This article was written especially for this book by Dr. C. H. Burt. In this disease the joints are affected; but the bones below are often affected, or the muscles themselves. What is known as Lamingia, in which the back and hindquarters are affected, and the dog shows evidences of the most intense pain, being barely able to move, and drag his hind legs, is only a form of rheumatism.
The same can be said of those common diseases popularly referred to as kennel lameness, chest-founder, in which the muscles connecting the shoulder
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
blade to the chest are affected, and the animal is very stiff and sore in front,
particularly noticeable when running down hills.
The cause of rheumatism is the acid in the blood, and this acid is produced and induced by a bad diet, exposure to cold winds, dampness, general neglect and exposure.
SYMPTOMS—Pain, difficulty, stiffness, disordered stomach, difficulty in moving.
unsteadiness, lassitude, and in some cases swelling of the joints. The disease also shifts from one location to another, or may disappear for a day to reappear the next with increased severity.
TREATMENT.—Give the dog warm, comfortable quarters, and in most cases enough food to keep him well nourished, using care to see that the animal is carefully and thoroughly dried after bath. If it is still in great pain give a dose of Dover's Pow-
ders, and if necessary, open the bowels with one dose of the following:
**Class 1.** (Adult dogs, 2 to 15 lbs.)—Olive oil, one teaspoonful; caracca sagrada, fluid ext. 3 to 10 drops.
**Class 2.** (Adult dogs, 16 to 30 lbs.)—Olive oil, one tablespoonful; caracca sagrada, fluid ext. 5 to 10 drops.
**Class 3.** (Adult dogs, 30 to 40 lbs.)—Olive oil, one ounce; caracca sagrada,
fluid ext. 15 to 30 drops.
**Class 4.** (Adult dogs, 40 lbs. and over.)—Olive oil, one or two ounces; caracca sagrada,
fluid ext., 50 to 60 drops.
The above doses are for an abortive action. As a gentle laxative give one-half
of the above doses at night and morning. Puppies two months old, of Classes 2, 3
and 4 take half dose of Class No. 1, and for puppies three to six months old give
them as do adult dogs of Class No. 2.
The above drug is an excellent remedy and harmless that no danger follows their use.
A pet six months can take nearly as much medicine as an adult, while,
for instance, a two month old fox terrier will take nearly as much at a dose as would a manifit or Great Dane of same age.
If the dog has been ill for more than four days, never treat patient with following three times a day:—
**Class 1.** (Adult dogs, 20 to 150 lbs.)—Salicylate of sodium, 3 grains; quinine,
1 grain; phenacetin, 1 grain.
**Class 2.** (Adult dogs, 20 to 40 lbs.)—Salicylate of sodium, 10 grains; quinine
2 grains; phenacetin, 5 grains.
**Class 3.** (Adult dogs, 40 up to 150 lbs.)—Salicylate of sodium, 15 grains;
quinine, 2 grains; phenacetin, 5 grains.
It is advisable to give for puppies under five months, but from five up to ten months
pups me one-half dose over twice daily; dogs of breeds of first two classes
take an adult dose.
In some cases it is advisable to give a lithium salt. The best one for this purpose
is lithium carbonate or lithiated cinchona liniment for adults and about ten
months, two ounces. Rub it well into the coat for about half an hour, then wipe dry and muzzle the animal for a while, to prevent his licking himself,
as this liniment is a powerful poison! If the joints are very severely affected, after
applying this liniment, wrap them up in cotton wool.
Feed light easily digestable foods: vegetable soup with boiled rice, oatmeal or corn mush.
DISEASES
Here are a couple of cases that were prescribed for: "I have a dog, four years old, that seems to be affected in a peculiar manner. He seems stiff all over his body. On the slightest exertion he shows great pain, and by simply touching him, it seems to make him howl, and cry dreadfully. He has been showing this now for three months, and I am at a loss to know what to do with him. I have tried all the remedies I can think of, but it is almost impossible for him to move his head up or down. I should be pleased to hear from you. Ans.—Your dog has muscular rheumatism, and would benefit greatly from the following treatment: Take one pound of salt, two ounces of lard, drop doses three times daily. There have been a number of anti-rheumatic agents recommended for affections of this kind, but so far some of them have not proved of much benefit. Also, in connection with the above treatment it would be well to give him a good diet, consisting of meat, bread, milk, and a little woolen cloth. This should be used once daily. Spirits of camphor might be tried on the aconite and camphor liniment prescribed by Dent—the poisonous one.
"Please prescribe for a dog, one hundred and fifty pounds weight, that has had a case of rheumatism in the stifle joint, the third attack in the same joint. He has had this condition for about six months. He is very stiffly, cannot put it down when running; he is afraid the joint will be permanently stiffened. Advise me as to treatment, exercise and feeding. Ans.—Take one grain of the salicylate of soda and two grains of quinine three times a day, handfuls of oatmeal flour twice daily, and a little bread every meal. Keep warm at all times, for windchill, and stable bread and a very little meat; keep in warm quarters; and do not expose to any bad weather; give walking exercise on pleasant days only."
RIES, FRACILE OF.—This injury, which is not uncommon in dogs, is usually due to a kick. The symptoms are pain on manipulating the part, the breathless condition, and sometimes a slight swelling around the ear applied to the rib. The ribs should be bandaged rather tightly, to prevent undue expansion of the chest walls, and this will generally effect a cure, if however the lungs are injured, then such complications as pneumonia or pleurisy may arise.
RINGWORM.—Dogs occasionally have this, due to a vegetable parasite. It is a round, sealy patch, very contagious, and also due to dirty, damp kennels, but could be communicated to the dog from a child who was playing with it. The best treatment is a little of the oilment of iodide of iron, well rubbed in twice a day for several days. A good remedy is to mix one ounce of tincture of iodine with half an ounce of tincture of bichloride of mercury. Mix this Skin Cure will also cure this trouble. Another remedy is yellow oxide of mercury, 15 grains, and bennetard oil, 1 ounce. Another is oleate of copper one part to four parts, which will cure it up.
RICKETS.—DAZELLA SPP. OF RICKETS.
"—Pups, the offspring of an enfeebled dam yielding an insufficient supply of milk and other food; or puppies that are, from any cause, ill fed and ragged or kept in close, ill-ventilated places, without a chance of fresh air and necessary exercise; suffer from mis-shapen limbs; thick joints and other deformities causing great suffering; they are unable to walk properly; they cannot get enough food; and other conditions arising from their condition; which the pup is reared, not yielding the constituting elements required for its growth; given them the required hardness to enable them to perform their proper functions. This state is known as rickets, and the cause being piling, the treatment is evident. Continous indoor breeding is one cause of rickets."
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
"Do not attempt to rear a pup on a weekly, unhealthy mother, but, if the breed is desired, procure for the pup a foster-mother of unhealthed health and stamina; let the nest be in a warm, airy place, and as soon as the pups are able to leave the nest, feed them with milk, which must be prepared by boiling the powder, and insure thorough cleanliness of the place in which they are kept. When old enough to eat, let their diet be light, nourishing and digestible, and rickets will be prevented by giving them a little lime water daily. The puppies should be fed with a considerable portion of the diet consisting of good milk, to which add a little lime water, say a tablespoonful to every quarter pint, and give in the food small doses of cod liver oil twice a day for some months."
The following is from "Novas rerum novicis," published in the *American Stock-keeper.*
"A great deal has been said and written on the subject of rickets in puppies.
In a great many cases the trouble is brought on by allowing them to play and roll about at an early age on a brick floor. If it is necessary to keep puppies in a house with hard floors, it is advisable to cover these with a layer of sawdust under which is a layer of disinfected sawdust, so as to prevent the propagation of infection.
As an internal remedy for puppies which are rickety, nothing is much better than Parfam's Chemical Food, which contains iron, copper, zinc, calcium and iodine. For dogs suffering from oedema or emaciation with hypophyseal phthisis it is excellent, and alternate doses of each may be given with benefit.
"The use of liniments depend on circumstances. If the leg weakness is caused by muscular disease, liniments are not indicated. But if the dog is unable to put matters all right again by the use of liniment only. But if due to physical weakness, less will depend upon external application than upon internal remedies given, and general dieting and management. As a good all-round treatment there is no remedy other than ordinary hartshorn and oil liniment, with a liberal allowance of turpentine.
Dext precribes, in American Field, as follows:
"What is the matter with my St. Bernard puppy, six months old? He walks like a person would with rheumatism; it all seems to be in his forelegs; he fol-
lows me about like a child; I have tried everything that I could think of to make him large and flouncy; weight one hundred and ten pounds. Ans.--RICKERS; give him a desertspoonful of precipitated phosphate of lime in his food three times a day; also give him two ounces of lean beef daily, and eggs shellini finely broken up and mixed in with his soft food."
The following was published in *Field and Furce*, in reply to request from a subscriber--written by D. O. V. BEUMLEY, Professor of Canine Diseases of the Col-
lege of Veterinary Department, State University of Ohio.
"Quite valuable ones, and would like to save them." The writer then men-
tioned to show evidences of the disease about two months ago, and now one of
them has peculiar enlargements around the joints on the front limbs; also on its
hind legs; another has peculiar appearance. The other one is not quite so
bad yet, but seems to be getting worse all the time. Could you suggest anything
that would help them?
There has been a great many things advanced in regard to the cause of this disease, and in many instances they do not seem to be entirely satisfactory.
Among many things that have been mentioned as the cause of rachitis, the
DISEASES.
107
following will suffice at this time: A deficiency of lime-salt is a consequence of disturbances of digestion; excessive formation of carbonic acid or lactic acid, which would dissolve the lime-salts; an alteration of the general nutritive condition on account of abnormal influences in young animals; enlargement and an increase in the amount of the bone substance, which is deposited in the bones; lime-salts continue to circulate in the blood instead of being deposited in the bones. It might be well to mention that at the present time the exact cause of this disease has not been discovered. The symptoms are very similar to those of rickets, viz., a diminution in the height of the animal, a shortening of the legs, a weak and feeble appearance, a poor appetite, a loss of weight, a rapid breathing, a weak pulse, a low voice, a shortness of breath, a weakness of the muscles, a tendency to fall down, a shortness of life, and death. In the dog by deficient, improper food, by want of nutritious food, and especially bones, as it has been demonstrated that animals with this disease if given these articles of diet seem to improve in a short time. This disease generally occurs in young animals. It is often met with in young dogs and cats, but rarely in adult ani-
mals, and for this reason also it is very often spoken of as hereditary. The dis-
ease seems to develop relatively in proportion to their growth; if the animal grows quickly, the disease will appear quickly; if growth is slow, the disease will appear slowly.
This disease is a peculiar disturbance of the bones of the whole system,
and seems to be a deficiency of lime-salts in the bones, making them soft and
flexible. The bones become much thickened and enlarged. The animal becomes
knife, and the ends of the bones become much thickened, which accounts for the
peculiar enlargements mentioned above. It is very often that the enlargements
make their appearance on the bones of the face, which gives the animal that peculiar appearance. The enlargement is most noticeable on the limbs. The differ-
ences in this disease, especially noticeable in the limbs, which no doubt comes
from the weight of the animal at the time the bones are soft. The disease as a
rule is chronic, and its symptoms are not so conspicuous as those of rickets.
Nevertheless it may occur and very often the treatment is not satisfactory. I have
in mind a case now that entirely recovered from the disease, but it was a mild one,
and was treated before the bones were much deformed. If the disease is taken
care of early enough it may be cured without any deformity whatever. If once
formed, it is only in extremely rare cases that it does not show as the animal grows to an adult age. It very frequently leaves them "bowedlegged" or with twisted limbs.
It is necessary to feed you plenty of nutritious food, such as meat,
and encourage digestion as much as possible. Give bones, and perhaps it would be well to give small amount of lime water to drink. In the medicinal treatment use syrups called lactophosphatine, in thirty drop doses, once daily.
**HYPERPLASIA PERIPHERALIS AND INFLAMMATION OF THE UTERUS**
"This is common in bitches and is due to an excessive irritation of a den-
sely full uterus by an increased amount of nutril matter through the blood stream.
The symptoms are high fever, the nose and mouth are hot, the pulse is quick,
the respirations are increased, the eyes are injected, the extremities become cold,
and there is great thirst."
"If the treatment is to be of any avail it must be adopted at once. First,
remove the caesarean, if possible, inject the uterus with warm, weak Condy's Fluid,
and give immediately 10 grains to 30 grains of the hypophyseal soda, in water three times a day (with crumb or bread); three times a day is useful; salicylate of soda is also recom-
mended in 10 grains to 30 grains does; in water, three times a day. The bowels
must be relaxed by means of doses of oil, and soap and water enemas."
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
lensel must be thoroughly cleaned and sanitary, the drains well flushed and a good clean bed provided. The patient must have warmth with plenty of fresh air. The food must be light, such as beef tea and mutton broth, with crumbled stale bread. As the animal approaches convalescence, 1 grain to 2 grains of sul-
phate of potash may be given with advantage.
The above is DAVIES' treatment of the quinine during convalescence would I Clayton's Serpents or Dent's Condition Pills.
SARCOPTIC MANGE.--See MANGE.
SCALDS.--See BURNS.
SURF, OR CHURNY EASE.--This comes from want of attention to the skin, but often appears on the ears as a forerunner of cancer, in which case wash with warm water and apply with olive oil. Give the dog a dose of physic and feed him a teaspoonful of the same. The next day give him a teaspoonful of vinegar twice a day, rub on both sides, which softens up the crusty and scaly edges and flaps of the ear, then gently scrape off what is loosened, with your finger or a piece of cloth, and apply a little ointment. This is my treatment, but it always works. The fact of the matter is that my Skin Cure, which I have ingested carefully blended and mixed, will just about take proper care of any skin trouble that a dog has. Each eight ounce bottle is mixed and prepared, just the one at a time, so that it is always fresh. It is made by mixing together all the ingredients, and cannot be made in bulk. It sells for the same price as any other skin remedy--but with all due regard to the virtues of Glover's, Dent's, Clayton's and other remedies--it is far superior to them. It is better than any of the others, and they do the work, if used in per diems, but it can only go by express. The price is Fifty Cents for full eight ounce bottles, and can only go by express.
SALIVATION is caused by administration of overdose of medicines in which uricurea figures. Mercury salts are in many skin remedies--a great mistake-- because they cause increased salivation, gums swollen and spongy, that bleed at the slightest touch, surrounded with a bluish rim, external feathery loose teeth, furrowed tongue, intense thirst, ulceration, loss of appetite, and soiling off of the gums. If the stomach and intestines have become involved, causing obstinate vomiting and dysentery; the dog loses flesh rapidly; eruptions occur, the hair drops off, teeth fall out, and paralysis and death result. Symptoms must be treated as they appear. The best remedy is to give a large quantity of fresh vegetables to keep up by stimulants and food. In serious cases you must force food into meth-
ea tea is a good thing and most easily given--a little at a time, but quite often.
SURFIEIT.--See BIRCH AND ECHEMA.
SCHROFULA.--Dogs have this disease; but unfortunately not very often. It manifests itself in a general unhealthiness and untrimity condition, the coat having a rough, dull look and an offensive odor. The lymphatic glands swell, eyes have a chronic, epithil discharge, appetite irregular, and the dog's health is hardly two days alike. This disease is usually caused by overeating the abdomen pendu-
ous. No dog having ascariasis should ever be used for breeding.
Although schrofula can not be cured, to keep it in check, strict cleanliness should be observed, both as regards the dog itself and its habitation. The animal
DISEASES. 108
should be groomed daily, as this tends to produce a healthier action of the skin, and have plenty of exercise and fresh air, and be frequently washed with Eberhart's Dog Soap, and with Seaman's Balsam. The Condition Pills be used for all cases of treatment, they working on and purifying the blood.
SCROTAL IRRITATION.—This is met with in dogs used constantly for stud purposes. The scrotum becomes red, spots appear, discharging serum and irrita-
tion is severe. The part finally becomes swollen, very sore, the discharge drying into a crusty mass which is very offensive to the dog. This condition will appear on the first appearance of any irritation bothie parts with warm water and administer a mild aprietan. After you have well dried the parts, dress morn-
ing and night with horacic oilatum, and put muzzle on dog to prevent his licking. For a week or more keep mouth with nitrate of silver. If the trouble recurs, as it often does, repeat the treatment.
ST. VITUS DANCE.—See CHOKA.
SPRAINS.—By this you will understand, as meant, a sudden, violent straining at a tendon, or ligament, caused by extreme or long-continued exertion, stepping on something, or by getting his foot into a hole while running, causing a twining of the muscle round the bone. The pain is intense and is accompanied by inflammation. You can discover the exact seat of the injury by passing the hand over the back, shoulder, or limb which seems to be affected. Rest is neces-
sary and advisable in such cases, and also to give a cooling aprietan, such as the
"Med Purgant."
Syrup of buckthorn. 3 parts
Syrup of white poppies. 1 part
Castor oil. 2 parts
Dosage for 15 lb., to 30 lb. dog is a tablespoonful; larger dogs two tablespoons-
fuls in each meal.
As soon as possible bathe with water as warm as the dog can bear it, and then rub the part with Liniment for Sprains. B. sizes, etc., at least three times a day.
STOMACH INFLAMMATION OF (Gastritis) —This comes from a number of causes; irritants accidentally swallowed, sometimes by mineral or other poison
poisoned food; some cases are due to the consumption of poisonous plants or
of areas nut or turpentine will cause inflammation. A dog may have ac-
tually swallowed something of an irritating nature while helping himself from
the garbage barrel, as many dogs will do.
The best treatment is to give him a violent vomiting, and between (these)
the dog will lie on his side, stretched out, whining and moaning from the pain,
which he is suffering. When this is observed administer from ½ grain to ½ grain of
hydrargyrum sublimate in water.
TREATMENT—Keep the dog undisturbed, with a constant supply of water that has been boiled, within reach, and give him mustard broth made with barley and
a little Isinglass added to it. To allay the pain a very little opium may be given.
Less medicine in such cases than in others; but if necessary give it in doses so
low as to be safe; this must be treated as directed under that head.
SUNSTROKE.—This sometimes happens to dogs, the same as to people, but it
not often, and generally not to a dog rightly cared for by its owner, but to the
110 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
unfortunate ones who have no owner, the poor fellows you so often see—homeless and wandering in the streets, many such I see, and while they lack food, clothes, and dogs and other comforts, yet they would be good enough to go to them a home, which all dogs deserve. I have now in my kennel one dog—which I call "Tramp"—that I found, and while he has no pedigree and I could not even name his breed, he is a very fine fellow. He is a good dog, with a good head, his intelligence, and his so plainly show of affection for me—that while he is not worth ten cents, yet he will find a good home, and just as good treatment as the finest bulldog or pug that I own, and just as long as he lives unless I can find him another home, he will be happy. If you, my reader, as you will—run across a homeless dog—give him a home, even if you could not tell what breed he is. He or she would fully appreciate your kindness and help him on his way to happiness.
Every dog you see must deserve all of this. My motto is—"Give him as much for a dog." I have wandered from my subject—Sunstroke. Treat it as you would a person. Remove the dog quickly to some refined place, as cool as possible. The dog cannot get plenty of air, and apply ice to the head. If ice is not obtainable, cold water sufficiently applied is the next best thing. Also give a little whiskey.
TEMPERATURE AND PULSE.—As indications of health or departure from the normal state the temperature and the moisture or dryness of the nose—the integument—are important signs. The pulse is also useful in diagnosis. If I may say so, they tell too much, and are too general, and do not enable us to discriminate. When the nose is dry and hot we know the dog is out of sorts. We look for other symptoms to determine what is the matter. The pulse and general temperature are important aids to diagnosis for too much neglected.
DALZIEL says:
"The first thing a medical man does when he visits a patient is to feel the pulse, and if there is a suspicion of fever of any kind, the temperature of the body is taken. In all cases where there is doubt about the cause of disease it is necessary in treating his animal in all inflammatory and febrile cases, such as distemper."
A dog's pulse varies from 90 to 100 beats per minute, the heart's action being quicker in highly bred, nervous dogs, as for instance setters, pointers and bull terriers. The pulse of a healthy dog is always regular and steady. It becomes familiar with the temperature of his dog in health, so that he may be able to at once detect a departure from the normal state. You can feel the pulse inside if held the left foreleg up with slight elbow bent, at the point of it will indicate the place where the hand should be held flat over it.
"The temperature is gauged by inserting an ordinary clinical thermometer in the mouth or rectum. The former gives the blood temperature but it is better although the latter can only be done on a quiet subject. The temperature of the dog normally varies from 100 degrees to 101 Fahrenheit."
TETANUS.—See LOCKAWAY.
**TESTICLES, ENLARGED.—When this occurs, acute pain is in most cases present, while in other cases it seems to cause but little if any inconvenience. Dogs past their middle age are usually the subjects, and obesity predisposes this condition."
Dogs which have been castrated are also liable to this condition; but it occurs quite often in stud dogs as well as due to disease in treating
DISEASES.
111
cases try to remove the cause if you can so ascertain. If pain is present, hot fomentations should be applied and an aperient given.
**THORNS.** These are most liable to pierce the pads of the foot (the sole). The thorn should be abstracted at once, and if a severe case of inflammation has been produced, the foot should be bandaged.
**TAPEWORM.** See Worms.
**TARTAR ON THE TEETH.** See Teeth, Decayed.
**TEARS.** See Worms.
**TEETH.** The following article on teeth could not be made plainer than by what DALLAYZEL says:
"The dog, when the set is complete, or his kennel parlance, when he has a full mouth of two teeth, made up of twelve incisors, or cutting teeth, four canines or fangs, and twenty-six molars, double, or grinding teeth."
"Some of these constitute what are ordinarily called the milk teeth, and are deciduous; that is to say, they are after a few months cast, and give place to permanent teeth which last for three or four years."
"The INCISORS--six above and six below--form the front teeth; those in the upper jaw are the larger, and both above and below the center teeth are the smaller, the outer or corner cutters the strongest; these appear at the age of fifteen to twenty-five weeks, and give place to the permanent incisors three to four months later."
The CANINES or FANGS also make their appearance when the incisors are from fifteen to twenty-five weeks old, and they are replaced by the permanent fangs at about the age of five or six months; they are comparatively elongated and pointed; the upper ones are the stronger.
THE MOLARS--sixteen, two in the upper jaw and fourteen in the lower; eight in each jaw is of course, the four, two upper and two under) are not deciduous, and make their appearance at about three or four months; the second, third in the upper, and fourth in the lower are, like the incisors and canines, deciduous; they appear at about three months; they are replaced by permanent molars next one at five to six months; the fourth in the upper jaw is much the strong- est, and, in the lower jaw, the fifth is the largest and strongest. The fifth generally appears from the fourth to the fifth month, and in the lower jaw the fifth is the smallest. The sixth appears from five to seven months; it is very large; seventh in the lower jaw from five and half to seven months. Most of the molars, in the lower jaw from five and half to seven months. Most of the molars, whilst always causing bleeding or crushing bones etc., are terminated by acute lobes useful for tearing flesh.
"TARTAR ACCUMULATION Upon THE TEETH." This term is applied to those blackish incrustations so commonly found adhering around the necks of the teeth. It is caused by food which cannot be thoroughly digested being retained in food. Sometimes the accumulation of matter is so great that it causes the teeth to become loose, leads to ulceration of the gums, and the production of a most offensive smell from the mouth; all of which can be divested by giving the animal an occasional dose of Milk. This is done by putting on a simple tape muzzle and then scraping the teeth with a small instrument which is sold by most butchers for the purpose of scraping the nails of the human subject. It is a somewhat tedious operation, nevertheless extremely simple.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
"Care must be taken to prevent the gums from injury, as they are very soft, and bleed upon the slightest touch. In many cases. All loose and decayed teeth should be pulled out, and the mouth washed occasionally for several days with some cleansing fluid, such as:
Potash alum. 5 grains
Bismuth. 5 grains
Permanganate of potash. 16 grains
Water. 4 ounces
Directions—Apply to the teeth with a brush.
"The dog must have an occasional apertur, e., a laxative of a mild kind, and there is nothing better than half to one teaspoonful of liquid extract of cascar, bark in a little water, every day.
"Decayed Teeth.—The teeth are liable to injury from various causes, such as result from biting hard substances, like stone, etc. Unless they cause inconveniency through sharp projecting points lacerting the tongue, etc., or by causing malnutrition, which is often the case when the teeth are sometimes worn almost away, and such it is advisable to feed on soft food.
"DEPLETED TEETH.—The permanent teeth may be displaced, either through a temporary tooth not having been shed, or by an excessive accumulation of tartar. If this occurs, the tooth should be extracted; the latter should be scaled off according to the method already described in the chapter on surgical instrument makers.
"CLAWS, on DISEASED TEETH.—The fangs are those teeth which are commonly affected by disease. The upper teeth appear brown with a black center, perhaps coated with tartar, and loose. The breath is very offensive, and saliva is constantly dribbling from the mouth; sometimes swellings under the jaw. The condition is due to the presence of tartar and calculus. The use of a laxative, and the adoption of such methods as will keep the system in good working order—viz., careful dietary.
"Anxieties of the Jaw.—A decayed tooth may give rise to the formation of matter in the mouth. In such case there appears a soft sort of tumor, swelling. If this is neglected, a furious ulcer may remain.
"In some cases the jawbone itself may become involved in the diseased state, but fortunately this is rare. The gums are red, swollen and spongy. The breathing is feeble and offensive.
"The term "canker of the mouth" has been, and still is, applied to this and other diseases of the mouth.
"The treatment consists of removing the diseased tooth, fomenting the abscess below the jaw with hot water and, when, ripe, either opening it with a sharp knife, lancing, or allowing it to burst itself. After the matter has escaped, it should be washed with hot water mixed with chloride of soda or lead nitrate; or with green coffee; or with a mixture of vinegar and port wine; or it may be, a course of tonics, such as a grain or two of quinine, night and morning, in the form of a pill; or, using one of the Condition Pills you see advertised in our drug stores; or by giving them to your dog in small doses by dogmen for dogs, and you won't go amiss in using either of them in such cases."
TEETH. DECAYED.—It is unfortunately only too true that the condition of a dog's teeth does not receive the attention that it should; this is very evident when it is borne in mind that one of the most important functions of the teeth is mastication.
DISEASES.
113
cation, and that an animal cannot maintain good health if it is imperfectly per-
formed. Upon sound teeth greatly depends perfect mastication. Before assimila-
tion of the food can take place in the stomach it must be received into that
organ in a fit condition for the process, and this depends upon the condition of
the teeth. When the food is not properly chewed, it acts as an irritant to the
stomach, causing indigestion and diarrhea, which latter in puppies often proves fatal.
Generally speaking, the teeth do not receive any attention until they decay,
and then only when they become painful. The most common cause of tooth-decay
is seldom known, though it is quite necessary for a dog to have clean teeth as it
is for ourselves.
Therefore we specially require attention in the care of dogs which are fed upon
an unwholesome diet, as they become sour, and finally accumulations of tartar
exist. To avoid this they should be gone over once a day with an ordinary tooth-
brush, dipped into weak Cundy's Fluid. This will not only prevent decay, but
also remove the tartar, and thus keep the mouth clean and fresh. A strong con-
stant companion. Foul breath, however, is not always due to the teeth, but to
indigestion as a result of their condition; at times, too, especially when the teeth
are irregular, from the combination between them; thus, in cases of tooth-decay,
the gums are frequently inflamed, and the formation of tartar cannot be doubted,
and is clearly shown by the swelling of the cheek, and often by the formation of
abscesses. All decayed teeth that are past preserving should be extracted by a
competent dentist.
**TUMORS.**—The dog has no fit in this disease, but walks about apparently
without an object generally in circles and always in one direction. Youmit
acquires the disease on the presence of hydatids in the brain, but results of more
recent study of animal parasites are opposed to this view. Worms in the stom-
ach may cause this condition. The dog may also suffer from a tumor of the
Sure Shot; Gower's Devil or Clatton's Vermifuge. Also put the dog in a room or
small kennel near where he can not injure himself by running against things,
as he might, due to his sight being impaired.
**TUMORS.**—These are divided into groups of varying structure—Fibrous, Fatty, Mucous and Cystic.
**Fibrous Tumors** are usually situated in the jaw or limbs; they have a firm attachment and are hard and insensible to the touch. Excision is necessary. In
cases of fibrous tumors or cavities, or cavity, cystic or matter (pox), they are
often exist, and in consequence become inflamed upon their surfaces.
**Fatty Tumors** are commonly met with in the dog, and have no particular position,
but occur at any part of the body. They are smooth and shiny upon touch,
and are not tender when touched. The treatment is by excision.
**Cystic Tumors.** These are common in bites, and are usually situated in
the mammary glands. The treatment is by excision, external applications being made.
**Mucous Tumors** are seldom seen in canine practice. There are a few cases on record, and with them excision has been successful.
**Osteoarticular tumors** are those which arise from bone or cartilage when occurring, are invari-
ably connected with arthritis; their situation is in the limb.
*Lactated Tumors* have already been fully dealt with under that heading.*
This article was written by DAZELLE
114 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
TONGUE, INFLAMMATION OF (Glossitis)---Dogs are extremely liable to injuries of the tongue, which is not surprising when we consider the variety of articles they pick up--sharp pieces of bone or stone. In some instances the inflammation is due to a stagg (I have known one or two cases of this in terrriers), while in others it is due to food.
The symptoms are first an increase of saliva, the jaws are moved constantly, and upon examination the tongue is found to be inflamed and tender, swallowing is difficult, and the animal is restless. The tongue is often red and swollen, and continues to be so continuously hurting, although probably not much is swallowed. The mouth should be rinsed out frequently throughout the day with a solution of boracic acid (1/2r. of the acid to 60r. of water). To do this, hold the head down slightly, and pour the liquid into the mouth, then rinse out with clean water. This will keep the tongue moistened and help to prevent it from being too dry. It is also of no consequence. A weak solution of Cundy's Fluid can also be used in the same way with marked benefit. This treatment, with an apertent, especially if that is necessary. If the inflammation is due to injuries caused by food, the food must consist for a time of warm milk or gravy. Chicken gravy or made from giblets, with flour added, is very nourishing, and many dogs that are sick from eating something else. Milk and flour to lay may also settle them, and it is good.
TONGUE, PARALYSIS OF---Occasionally seen in dogs, and often congenital. The tongue protrudes, becomes dry and often cracks. The dog experi-
ences little inconvenience and lassus with ease. If cracks appear on the tongue, apply a little oil to the affected parts. If the nose is dry, apply a little oil on the tongue will prevent the dryness. A nerve tonic should be given, 5 to 20 drops, as per sig. dog. of the tincture of Nux Vomica, with 3g. grain 1 grain 1 grain quinine is a very good thing to use now, given in water twice daily after meals.
ULCERS ON THE TONGUE---A very painful condition, usually the result of neglect, the teeth having been allowed to accumulate tartar. The ulcers may be quite rough on decayed teeth, or to a disordered stomach, this frequently causes them. The ulcers may be large or small in size and occur in large quantities, and when the condition of the stomach improves, the ulcers disappear.
Remove the tartar by scaling, and rub the teeth afterwards with a tooth brush dipped into a weak solution of Cundy's Fluid. Extract the decayed teeth if any are present with a tooth forceps.
URINARY PASSAGE, STONE---See Urethral Calculi.
UTERUS, DROPSY OF---Observed sometimes in bitches that have had several litters, and the condition often mistaken for pregnancy. The absence of the round hard bodies and the lack of tenderness of the abdomen will guide you in determining the true condition. See Droopy.
UTERUS, INFERTILITY OF---See Spontaneous Puerperal.
UTERUS, INVERSION OF THE---This may, and often does occur after pup-
pings. The uterus is drawn into the abdomen and forced inside out, part of it to be seen protruding at the opening of the vagina. Return it as gently as possible, and inject afterwards a mild antispasmodic. It would be advisable, however, to have your veterinary surgeon handle the case.
UDDER TUMOR---See Lactal Tumor.
DISEASES.
115
UNPLEASANT BREATH.—This arises from a bad state of the stomach, which should be treated with a dose or two of physic—or from decayed teeth.
VOIMITION.—The causes of the expulsion of food, either of a liquid or solid na-
ture, of all animals the dog, cat, horse, sheep, ox, ass, and pig, are the same in prin-
ciple, some being caused purposely by eating the coarse grass, *triticum repens*, and other emetic grasses, which instantly readily enables them to discover. It appears to vomit without any apparent discomfure, though continued vomiting
stimulates the brain, and produces a kind of delirium. The vomiting is caused by the
stimulation of the so-called vomiting center, which is situated within the thick-
ened portion of the spinal cord, near to the brain.
It may be asked—How is it that the dog is more prone to vomit than other
animals? The answer is—First.—that the vomiting center is easily stimulated. Second.—the entrance to the stomach is wide and easily dilated, enlarged. Third.—the walls composing the stomach, or bag, are strong and elastic, capable of expansion.
Vomiting if linearized or disordered state in itself, but a symptom of
many disorders and diseases, hence it is a frequent symptom of an ulcerated
stomach, inflammatory or congestive changes in the intestines, liver, etc., so we must
consider this point.
TREATMENT.—Knowing that the causes operating in the production of vomit-
ing are so numerous and varied it will be really understood that the lines of
treatment to be adopted must be equally variable.
In cases where vomiting is due to an excess of food as possible, while a depraved
appetite may be corrected by giving 10 to 30 grains of bismaric acid of soda, in the
form of a powder, twice daily, along with a more liberal allowance of fresh food.
When the liquid vomited up is tinged with yellow matter, bile, it indicates that the stomach has been irritated by some foreign body. A mixture of carbonated
and powdered opium may be given, in the form of a pill occasionally.
When the ejected matter is tinged with blood it points to ulceration or to di-
seases of the stomach. In these cases treatment with blood will be considered when speaking of these diseases.
In instances in which it is impossible to determine the cause of vomiting,
or when it becomes advisable to check it—reinforcing that it sometimes requires to be encouraged, as in cases of poisoning—I recommend the following prescription:
Dilute syrup acid B. P. 9 drops
Nitrate of bismuth. 1 dram
Water 1 fluid ounce
Disperse this Mix. give one tablespoonful to a small dog and two tablespoons-
fuls to large dogs with warm water. Several hours must elapse between
one dose and the next. As to the food, this will require to be light, shielding
and easy of digestion—all solids withheld for time being. Milk, or this along
with oil or butter, eggs, broth, or chicken gravy. When vomiting is
observed to be due to an irritation of the stomach or moderate dose of *carotis* de—
WOUNDS.—Dalton's article on Wounds is given complete. "For the pur-
pose of description these can be divided into incised, Lacerated, Punctured and
Contused."
Incised Wounds are those caused by a clean cut, such as a sharp-edged instrument. Lacerated wounds are those in which the tissues are torn and the
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
edges of the wound irregular; punctured wounds those caused by stabs or probes; while contained wounds are those due to crushing and bruising.
"The process of healing is accomplished in different ways, according to the nature of the wound and the condition of the surrounding parts."
"1. By intentionation—that is, by immediate reunion of the parts.
2. Adhesive inflammation, in which there is an exudation of lymph in both cut surfaces.
3. Granulation, where the wound gradually heals by the formation of proud flesh.
"4. The union of granulations.
5. The commother and more usual method of healing, under a scalpel.
"In incised wounds the parts should be dis eased, and the bleeding arrested.
In all cases where the edges of the tips or edges of the wound brought into immediate contact by sutures. Where practicable, the whole should be covered with dry carbolized tow and a bandage. A muzzle must be worn, or the stitches will be torn out by slight pressure on them. In this mode of treatment, while instead of a very slight scar a large one will be the result. In adhesive inflammation the mode treatment is the same; it has, however, been proved beyond doubt that dry dressings are much preferable to any other. The old adage "a clean wound is a good wound," is well worth remembering. The common method of healing is by granulation under a scalpel as already noted.
"In wounds I have found the carbolized tow and carbolized gauze the most successful. The object of these is to prevent suppuration, if possible, by keeping the surface moist and free from foreign matter. This can be done either by first intention, or by adhesive inflammation. In other wounds it keeps them healthy. The wound must be constantly washed and kept thoroughly clean. If it is a serious one, or if it is infected, it should be dressed twice a day. When it appears to recover, it should be kept for two days with a dressing of silver; again if the wound is unhealthy-looking, and the healing process is retarded, a slight application of nitrate of silver will often stimulate it to healthy action.
"In all cases where the wounds heal by the process of granulation it is absolutely necessary that the repairing process shall begin at the bottom, and so gradually close the wound. Should it occur at the surface, the pus will be introduced into deeper parts, and may cause gangrene; or it may assume the shape of abscesses; or the pus will form sinuses, which will necessitate making large incisions. All wounds should be examined well for the purpose of removing all traces of foreign matter, and again hemorrhage (bleeding) must be stopped before suturing.
"In punctured wounds, the wound should be explored by means of a sliver probe, so that the exact extent of the injury can be ascertained, and foreign matter removed. If there is no foreign matter, the result is often blood-pussing and death. Punctured wounds must always heal by granulation, where there is any suspicion of foreign matter, always have recourse to a poultice.
"Continued wounds are generally successfully treated by poulticing and forcing out all foreign matter; but when there is no foreign matter, the final healing is by granulation. Always bear in mind to keep the wound clean.
"To summarise the general treatment of wounds. First stop the bleeding, remove the hair and examine for the presence of foreign matter, and where this exists remove it. If there is any doubt about it apply a hot poultice night and morning until healed."
![]() A medical illustration showing various stages of wound healing.
DISEASES. 117
morning until satisfied that the wound is cleansed; where it is practicable, always insert sutures to keep the edges together.
As I have already said, dry dressings are the most successful, such as ear-bolts, or bandages. (Listers' carbolic solution with a pledge of tow or cotton kept in position by a bandage.) In situations this is not possible. The wound should be dressed night and morning with carbolic lotion: carbolic acid 1 part, water 20 parts, with a little glycerine added. Or a saturated solution of salicylic acid may be used.
SEYTL'S PASTRY makes an article called LOCEURUM, a salve that is the greatest healer for any kind of a sore that I ever used, and I would not be without it in my kennel. I can send this by mail for fifty cents.
WARTS are rather common on the dog, occurring on the lips, ears, inside of the mouth, and appear singly or in clusters. They can be removed by a ligature tied tightly around the root as close to the skin as possible. Another method is by cutting out the whole mass of tissue at the base of the wart, and then applying the raw surface before the dog has had time to heal. The hot iron is an actual cautery, although for the time the most painful, is after all (says DAZELLI) the best and safest. Neither potatoe fusee, uric acid, nor nitrate of silver can be safely used, because they cause inflammation and increase the pain. The hot iron must be applied to the wart, and the caustic in part would be transferred to the tongue, which would peel as the result. If cured, the jaws must be so tightly bound that the teeth are held together, so the growth cannot protrude.
There are also great clusters, and the difficulty of dealing with them then is greatly increased. An application of borbonate of soda has proved effective in some cases.
**WORMING THE TONGUE—A silly idea that may still exist in some isolated nook or muddled brain, that a dog has a worm under its tongue, the removal of which will cure all his ailments. This is a very dangerous notion indeed, much as to prevent the dog from biting, should he ever become mad! Operation consisted in cutting the hindle of the tongue and pulling out a small ligament, which contracts and curls up like a worm. Anyone so ignorant should have been put into prison for two tongues to see how cruel, ridiculous and uncalled for is such an idea. Equality as such is a similar operation as to removing a worm from the tail of a dog."
**WATER IN CHEST—See Drowsy.**
**WRENCHED BACK—Some months ago a party wrote me: "My dog has wrenched his back (by jumping off of a high table), about six inches from his back bone." I replied: "I am sorry to hear that you give sharp chaps of pain quite often and hold his hindquarters on a drop."**
I advised as follows, and the dog was cured. "Take three ordinary coffee cups of water, add one coffee cup each of strong vinegar and salt. Heat to as hot as you can just stand your hand on it. Apply this mixture to all parts, cloth dipping in it every few minutes. After repeating as cloth gets cold coming up for several hours. As dog gets better and pain leaves, then use a soft instrument or a chiro-form limiment that your druggist can furnish."
**WORMS—all dogs are born with worms; some few get through without treatment, like some children do; but every puppy I have ever bred was treated
118 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
for worms at from six to eight weeks old, or as soon as they were weaned, and this is the only safe and sure plan to follow, for you make no mistake by so doing.
Worms are, without doubt, the cause of the death of more puppies, in many ways, than from all other diseases combined, destroying life when their pre-
cious lives are but a few days old. The puppy is born with a large dose of vermi-
after puppy is weaned, when they get their work in, and I hardly ever treat for worms under six, and generally not until they are eight weeks old, or just after they are weaned. In some cases, however, I have treated puppies as young as two
pass wormer in considerable quantities as young as three, and in some few cases,
two weeks old, and I have then treated them with small doses of vermifuge, but they must be small doses, and careful in what you use at this age, for as a rule,
very often the dose is too large. When you give a large dose to a puppy that is
and sure, you do not need to wait for the usual signs of worms in puppies, but
just make up your mind to the fact that all pups are born with worms—and you
won't miss it. When you see a puppy that has been sick it has been treated; if not, do,
nothing else will be necessary. Worms are very dangerous to young dogs because
that are perfectly safe to use, and harmless should puppy not have any worms.
The three principle kinds that infect dogs are:
First—The Common Round or Stomach Worm. Of a pale pink or flesh color,
policed with black spots. This worm is found in the stomach of dogs in much
like the common earth or fish worm; this kind is most common in puppies.
Second—The Tail Worm: which is made up of flat sections joined together,
and these sections being from a quarter to an inch in length, and in color nearly
white. It is found in the intestines of dogs. It is long and slender, and runs back
and shorter toward the head so that such an extent that it looks to the naked eye as
fine as a thread. Under a strong glass this part will look like a lot of very small
beads strung on a fine thread. Here is where to look for the head, which is described as being about one-eighth of an inch long and about one-eighth inch thick;
spherical, broader than long, and often as truncated anteriorly; the four months,
or oscula, are situated on the anterior surface, and surround the central rostellar
humus which is very short and broad. The head can be seen or found out
with the naked eye. It is larger than the neck but yet too small to be seen unless
under a glass.
Third—The Max Worm (or pin, or thread worm), as it is variously called)
is found in the rectum and is nearly pink in color, and from a half to an inch
long. These are the least dangerous of all worms, but cause great irritation. They
are passed adhering to the feces. In puppies these sometimes cause partial paral-
ysis of the intestines. The body is cylindrical and somewhat flattened; the max
worm are segments of the tape worm, but I think it is a separate species altogether. The common round stomach worms which inhabit the stomach and small intestines are next to be feared of all, being more peculiar to puppies,
than any other kind of worm. They cause great irritation by distension and
obstruction of the bowels. Your puppy has a much greater chance to live when the
worms are gotten rid of, as their presence leads to so many dangerous con-
ditions.
Dallay says: "The varieties of worms infesting dogs are very numerous,
far more nor than dog owners in general have the slightest idea of, but some
varieties fortunately are rare. A variety has been found in the eye, another in
the nasal sinuses, where it causes great irritation; the crowd thread worm finds
DISEASES.
119
its way into the heart, producing a most painful death; some are found in the blood, the liver has its parasite, so have the kidneys and urethra.
As has been the custom of writers and owners of dogs to classify them under the head of "temperamental" or "diseased," I have thought it proper in this article do name the same, as these are the kinds that mostly concern dog owners.
DALECH. sonne of TAPWORMS. "There are, as the name indicates, the flat worms which are often seen evuating with the feces in small sections of half an inch or less, when they are usually called 'ma-worms,' or at times chains of them being excreting from the anus, when being expelled naturally or under the action of medicine."
"No less than a dozen tapeworms select the dog as their host. They have a remarkable faculty of adapting themselves to any condition of existence, so far as this is so he is often puzzled to think how this or that dew became infested."
"It will therefore be well to see how an adult tapeworm is made up. If examined, it will be found to consist of a head, or scolex, and a series of seg-
ments or proglottides, each one of which is attached by a hook-like structure
budded off from the head, and assume forms varying with their age. Thus those nearest the head are the youngest, and those at the other extremity the oldest,
and in proportion as they grow older they become more elongated and slender.
They are, in fact, the ripe segments, or proglottids, which detach themselves from
the blind portion, and each portion thus freed is endowed with reproductive
organs. In time these detached portions die away, but the eggs contained in
them are passed out with the feces. The proglottides then become attached
again begin anew the cycle of existence. The eggs thus scattered broadcast are not
influenced by extremes of heat or cold, dryness or moisture, nor does time seem to
destroy their germinating power. From this it will readily be seen how im-
portant it is to keep dogs clean and healthy. For if they are not kept clean,
ripe segments leave the dog per anus they are charged with ova, and possessing
the power of motion, wriggle among the hair, where the lice and fleas devour them,
equipped with hooks they can attach themselves to any part of the animal's
cavity. The dog again, in searching for his tormentors, scratches and licks his skin
and coat, and in this way swallow the insect, and when he contains cryptosty on
his tongue he swallows it whole. This is what we call tapeworm disease. It is
not so much a disease as a condition caused by a worm infestation with him,
that we have here an explanation of what has puzzled so many--how a carefully
fed and groomed house dog becomes infected with tapeworm."
SYMPHORUM or TAPWORMS.--An irregular and frequently a ravishing appease
ment accompanies this condition. The dog may be nervous and irritable,
no good. The stomach is offensive, and nose hot and dry. The coat has a rough,
harsh, straining, unhealthy look; the hair looking dead. He has found, however,
found tapeworms in a pup dog that had a sleek and glossy coat and was fat and healthy.
These symptoms depend upon two things: first, upon the amount of food they eat;
secondly upon whether they have been allowed to go hungry. A dog who eats
worm may sometimes be seen hanging from the anus of the dog, this being the
case in the pup spoken of, and who had never shown any signs of having such
trouble, as she was a bitch that had several litterts of pups.
SYMPHORUM or SYMPHOROUS Worms in young puppies is easy to be seen; they pass easily through the body without causing any trouble; and you will find mucous,
or slime, and sometimes blood in the passage. You will also notice a distension
and hardness of the stomach very much disproportionate to amount of food they have eaten and yet you may notice the puppy dragging itself on its stern or biting
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
At its tail. In older dogs most of these same symptoms appear, as well as others here enumerated: a foul breath, nose in hot and dry, hacking cough, fits, vomiting of their food mixed with mucus, rough and stringing coat, indigestion, disturbed stomach, and general listlessness.
The question is often asked at what period after service should a bitch be treated for worms, or rather how soon before whelping. A fortnight or three weeks is about the limit after service, but they have been treated without bad results.
If you have your puppies confined in a yard it is very easy to watch their passages, and this is one of the surest ways of all; then, as soon as you see mucus or worms passed you know that they are sick, and can go to work at once to treat them. Worms are not so common in dogs as in cats, but they are found in every kind of dog, and in every condition of health. In some breeds they are more common than in others. The best way to deal with them is to give them a good dose of vermicide, which will kill them off in a few days. This is the best method of treating them, but if you do not have any vermicides on hand you can use the following mixture:
Take 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients: 1 part of the following ingredients:
DISEASES.
121
"Above doses are for dogs that weigh when grown from 50 pounds to 100 pounds. For smaller dogs weighing about 25 pounds take two-thirds, and toy dogs of about 10 pounds take one-third the above doses. In treating puppies with this remedy, give only one dose; on old dogs, repeat once or twice."
There is no use giving any worm remedy unless the stomach has been prepared for it by the administration of a good emetic. The stomach must be put in then when bowels are empty. You must catch the worms by fishing for them when they are hungry, the exception of this rule being, of course, in the case of treating puppies yet unweaned. A. Birtillgame & Co., Greenwich Village, Mass, called Dr. Wurm's Worm Powders, that I use in cases of puppies unweaned when the worms have shown up, and I have found it safe in puppies as young as two weeks. Most people believe that the colt is born with worms in its stomach just because it got them at birth, but as to her experience with Dr. Wurm's Powders, and as her object was such a good one she herewith gave her idem in her own words. She says:
"Destroy the worms before the worms can do the damage, and then see how the treatment will work out. The best way to destroy worms is to stunt the growth by living on what the puppy has digested, and the younger the puppy the less liable it is to feed a lot of worms, and they must stunt the growth even if the puppies are never sick from them. My plan was to give the young pups some food which would cause them to grow weak and sickly until they died, so that it would be impossible in an unweaned puppy, and after many experiments I tried Dr. Wurm's Worm Powders, as follows: I began with every puppy in the litter on the tenth day after birth, and continued it until the twelfth day, and again on the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth day. It will not make them sick a minute, they do not seem to know they have taken it, but a peculiar odor more or less around their pen will show whether they had them before or not. The reason these puppies get worse about weaning time is that they are not able to digest enough of other food than milk to supply themselves and the worms, than the puppies' digestion gives out."
Many people think that a dog is too young for puppys, so you can judge of the sized bred to which he gave 3 grain doses at ten days old. Her ideas are good ones, but I would not advise beginning treatment quite so young as at ten days old in any pups. I have at this writing a litter of pup pups now a month old, thriving and healthy; but I have not seen any sign of worms in them since I first began to treat them. I have failed to see any signs of worms in the passages until this very day, when I discovered some mucus, and I shall now give them each a 5 grain capsule of Dr. Wurm's Powders every morning for three days, and then give them a treatment with Dr. Wurm's Vermifuge mentioned.
Columbia Vermitide, advertized in this book; is a liquid put up in an elastic soft capsule, easy to give, of course tasteless to the puppy, and is strongly recom- mended by Dr. Wurm himself. He says that his Vermifuge is stronger than any other; Mr. Glover's Vermifuge is a strong well known destroyer of worms, many a bottle of which I have used with good results. In a recent letter from Dr. Glover, reply- ing to one I wrote him as to using his vermifuge on young puppies. He writes me as follows:
"You can give ½ to ½ teaspoonful to a three or four-weeks old puppy. Graduate the dose according to breed of the dog, and as the pup gets older in- crease the dose by a few drops each time."
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS
Mr. P. W. Miller has just written me as to giving his "Sure Shot," which is a most valuable destroyer of worms, and one I use: "When pups are two to three months old the dose as given in our general directions (a teaspoonful) may be administered safely." In pups a month old, and in small toy dogs a half teaspoonful.
DENT writes as follows to giving h.s Vermifuge, and you will see that he does not believe in treating very young or unwaned pups for worms: "I con-
sider the practice of 'dosing a pup before weaning as absurd.' Treat the mother with Vermifuge, and the pups will get it from her milk. The dose of a pup having worms until after weaning. They can't get them from her milk, but they can get them off of her teats, or coat, or bedding, and that is the only way."
"In dosing pups but little difference need be made in the size of the dose. Dogs like fox terriers, spaniels, collies, setters and pointers that weigh from grown 20 to 60 pounds, can as pup be given the same sized dose up to the time of weaning."
"I recommend my Vermifuge for dogs two months of age and over."
"After warming a pup I recommend the use of my VERNONAL." It is the "Cans-
trol" for dog worms and will prevent worms act as a tonic, build up their bones, and prevent disease. It is not a physic but is a bone, muscle and nerve food."
I offer with this as well as no worms in paws before two months old for two drops, thirty days old ten to thirty drops, Medium and large breeds twice and three times daily until all are free from worms. This is a good thing for all dogs and can be given with perfect safety. I have yet to see one unpleasant result of the Vermifuge in time, that dies of worms. I will put up twice the volume of the pup, and if there is any worm left in the stomach when it is found out worm, the owner takes the money; if there is no worms, the owner stands the loss. I absolutely guarantee to remove all worms with my remedies, without injury to the animal, and you cannot speak too highly of my worm remedies.
Dr. Clayton furnishes me directions as to giving his Vermifuge as follows:
"The dose for dog toy ten days old is two to five drops, twenty days old five to ten drops, thirty days old ten to thirty drops. Medium and large breeds twice and three times daily until all are free from worms. This is a good plan to give all puppies the Vermifuge, said once a week from ten days to three months old, as you are then absolutely sure your puppies are free from worms and barring all contagious diseases will soon arrive at the teething period."
I have lately used Clayton's Vermifuge with most satisfactory results, and believe it to be a good and safe one.
DISEASES. 128
Now, what I have written and furnished you in the foregoing is meant for STOMACH OR ROUND WORMS especially. Any of these Verm fugae might also expel tape worm, but I now treat of it, and a remedy that is certain, safe and sure, one made and intended to be used on human's for tape worm, but adapted to and used upon animals.
TREATMENT FOR TAPE WORM.--I will now divulge the secret of the remedy that I have sold for years under the name of "Ecklebark's Tape Worm Remedy," and which has never failed and never will fail to remove tape worms, head and all, if diagnosed correctly. This remedy is a product of India, a fine granular powder of a reddish, brown color, obtained by boiling the bark adhering to the capsules of *Bertella tinctoria.*
Some ten years ago my dog "Boycott" was afflicted with tape worm, not only one, but two. He was so ill that I tried every known remedy, and each case failed to rid him of the worms, besides nearly ruining the dog. I paid one tape worm doctor (who treated people) ten dollars to work on my dog one evening. The next morning he came back and said he had given him a cure for many days afterward, due to the severe ordeal and treatment. I then discovered "Kamala," which had been used for human beings, and in less than a week I had removed three tape worms (including heads) aggregating eight feet in length.
Kamala is certainly harmless, except causing irritation or inflammation and unlike other remedies, its use does not leave the patient in a weakened condition. But exactly the reverse. It is a very strong stimulant to the animal's system, but has no effect until after taking it. So harmless do I know it to be, that many times I have given it as an ordinary physic when I did not have cash up on hand. It is the greatest tape worm remedy ever used and I now give it up regularly to my customers who are sick with this disease. I am receiving orders for it almost daily, it having been a profitable part of my business.
It is also a very good remedy for removing round worms. Being a compass-ive new remedy at this time, I am sending it to all my friends who are suffering from this disease. My druggist has not got it send to me and I can mail it to you, as my druggist in Cincinnati keeps it in stock, and always fresh, which is highly important as it must be fresh and kept in a tightly corked bottle. For Fifty cents you will receive a bottle containing enough for any dog. This one remedy alone is worth the cost of a good many copies of this paper.
NEVER use *Acrea nut*, the relief of a past age, which has for so long a time been used for tape worms, and has killed more dogs than it ever cured, a deadly and dangerous remedy.
**10D TO USE KALAMA**
Feed your dog for twenty-four hours (a day and night) and then in the morning give him the dose. A strong and mature dog should be kept without food for twenty-four hours, weakly dogs and puppies, a less period, but sufficient to empty the stomach at least once.
Weigh your dog first and if he is ordinarily strong and healthy, the size dose is give two grains for each pound the dog weighs. If the dog is not in usual health or is a very sickly sort, try first one-and-a-half grains to each pound. Keep this dose in a tightly corked bottle. *Acrea nut* is easily administered as follows: I give a mixed in molasses and then put it in his mouth, rubbing whatever is left on your finger, on his nose and he will lick it off himself.
14
I prefer mixing it in molasses, as this is sweet and also a physic. It should work him in from half an hour to an hour, but sometimes takes longer.
Another way to give it is by mixing the powder in castor or olive oil, the way I use it for my own dogs, and giving them a spoonful every four hours.
Now, arrange to have it so you can examine the passages by dog being con-
fined in a yard. So there yourself till it has worked the dog, don't give it up and go away, for this catches the worms. After you have given it, wash out each stool and carefully pick up the head of the worm. If you cannot find the head, then repeat the process. If you cannot find the head again, then put the worm in a dish of water and boil it until it is soft enough to be eaten. Then take a little of its juice and rub it on the head of the worm. This will cause the head to come off easily. If you cannot find the head again, then put the worm in a dish of water and boil it until it is soft enough to be eaten. Then take a little of its juice and rub it on the head of the worm. This will cause the head to come off easily.
In tape worm cases the treatment must be repeated and persevered with until the head of the worm is expelled, and in all cases the worms and all dis-
turbing symptoms must be removed before any other treatment can be applied.
The best remedy for tape worms is Kamaala, which is made by a chemist.
It is very good for dogs that have tape worms, but I never have found it necessary to use anything but Kamala, and besides, I am always afraid of there being any nut in any remedy if I did not know just what was in it.
TREATMENT FOR MAW WORMS.—These can be reached and expelled by the fol-
lowing injection: Apply 1 dram. Put the dose into a cup of warm
water and then put it into your dog's mouth. The dog will soon be seen passing from its mouth. Use rubber syringe and hold rear part of the dog
up for five minutes after injecting. It will do no harm and facilitate matters by
getting rid of the worms. The dog will pass them out in his droppings.
Kamala will give a dog a thorough cleaning out, and with this start expel a lot
of these worms. The Kamala need only be given once in treating for maw worms.
The first day you begin treating dogs.
Yellow fever is treated with quinine or maw worms is a solution of quassia
chips. Ahanepi steeped in water for six hours.
YELLOW, THE.—See JAUNICE AND DISTEMPER.
**DISTEMPER.**
**DISTEMPER.**—This disease troubles breeders more and causes more deaths than anything else, except perhaps worms. It is the hardest subject I have to handle in this book, and as too much information on this dreaded disease we cannot know, I have secured for this article about all I could get. Read and study up this sub-
ject before distemper appears, as so to be then prepared to attend to it when your dogs are affected with it. The dog must be kept away from other dogs until he must die, because he has distemper; I have had many dogs get it and get well, and I now have dogs in my kennel that got safely over it, and these same dogs afterwards continued to get it again, but they did not die of it. I believe this dog does not necessarily follow that a grown dog will have it after hav-
ing passed safely through it. Lately I had two cases of distemper in my kennel, one of which was a young dog of six months. Unfortunately both cases proved fatal, but I checked it up here and not another one of the fifty other dogs in the kennel had it at all,
which was indeed lucky, as it was impossible to prevent most of them from ex-
posure to the disease by any means whatever. What I did do, however, was to immediately take steps to prevent, especially the younger dogs from getting it. This I did by at once isolating the ones that had it, thoroughly disinfecting the kennels and pens where they were kept, and keeping every dog that had been exposed on either Clayton's Glover's or Deut's Distempering, all three of which I always keep on hand. This I kept up for a few days, watching every dog for any signs of distemper coming, also as to see if any of the dogs that had been exposed would show any sign of the disease. I found it to be the case with all but one of those that died. All three of these remedies are good, and it is the wise plan to have one of them on hand so that when distemper comes you can go to work on the dog at once without delay, and by having to wait till you get back home to write me first book I have ever written. My friend, William Sibby, the Inglebeagle breeder of Ilion, N. Y. This is addition to other treatment, and with good results, as it can do no harm and will surely do good. It is called the "Home Made Distemper Cure," and was published in all the
dog papers.
Sicilie a sound raw onion (the stronger the better) and put into a stocking leg
and with safety pins fasten around the dog's neck, with the onions under the chin.
The onion will be removed after a week or ten days (as long as necessary)
(say every other day) and with careful nursing you will be surprised at your
success.
To cure a diet of dog during distemper is a question to which the answer must vary according to the circumstances of the case. It goes without saying, however,
that in all cases solid meat must be tabooed--anything likely to raise the tem-
perature being highly unsuitable. If the dog is purged violently, milk with a small quantity of sugar may be given; if not, water only; if he is very weak,
beaten up with egg. As a general rule the safest plan is to dispense with solids altogether, and feed on gruels, broth, beef tea, etc., remembering that, as with
a human invalid so with a canine, it is equally of importance to provide only light,
14
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
nearly-digested nourishment, since the stomach is affected with the rest of the body, and what it could easily assimilate during health, it has no means of dealing
with during sickness.
Dog biscuits and all farinaceous solids are to be avoided now. A little gruel made of flour, water and boiling milk will usually be taken, especially if not too thick. Again, though we dispense with meat, gravy may be offered and soup made by boiling bones. As the animal regains its strength meat may be recommenced, but it must be given in small quantities at first. It is well to mix beef with advantage, as the dog, even in sickness, is prone to his natural habit of "biting" food.
Another excellent meal we have found for invalid dogs is the family rice-pub-
ding, which is very palatable. A dog will generally accept this and it forms both a satisfying and nutritious meal.
Keeping them eating is the great trouble—and one they must—in order to en-
tain their health. We find that this trying ordeal when a dog is quite
eaten and refuses food, try and coax him to eat by getting him cooking some-
thing new and delicate that he has not been used to getting ordinarily. I have often gone out and bought a quail, or some delicacy like this, and he would eat it
without hesitation. The same applies to fish, eggs, etc., but not to meat,
chicken giblets, they will often eat.
It requires patience on the owner's part and too much care and kindness can hardly be exercised, as this really helps mid encourage the dog to pull through.
The after results are much easier than others, for a dog with distemper is a very sick dog; and here is where you can do them a lot of good in keeping up their courage by the attention you bestow on them. The after results of distemper are very different from those of other diseases. The dog who has had distemper treated is a choker in the worst of ail and so frequently follows distemper. A spien-
did thing to give as an after medicine is to build the dog up by a course of treat-
ment. Dr. Seaman's formula (Falk, Clynors or Dent), say for a few weeks, will cure this I am sure your dog will get over it in a few days without any medicine, and too much medicine would be even worse than none at all—here in where the good nursing comes in. If you do this part all right
you will see how much better your dog looks after treatment than before,
and the surroundings and care are all properly looked after, the dog need not die.
There is another important point, and that is in regard to a dog's bedding. The more frequently this can be changed during sickness the better.
As a rule I have never seen a dog of low grade being shown at shows and others, espe-
cially if I knew they had never had distemper, I have always made it a rule to give these well dogs either one or the other of these remedies during the show, and
always keep them in their own bed until they leave it. I have never seen a dog from its being at a show. I believe, if this was made a practice by all
exhibitors at dog shows, that we would not hear of so many cases of distemper after the after-remit of exhibiting.
DISTEMPER.
The following article on this disease was written by Wm. A. Bruette, D. V. S. ("Dent."), the well-known veterinary surgeon of Chicago. It is a very complete and comprehensive treatise upon the subject, and one who has had anything to do with dogs, or who has ever been in the habit of keeping dogs, knows that it is also a disease in human practice and is considered reliable authority by many dog fanciers.
"Distemper" (By Dent.). Of the various diseases that dogfom is heir to dis- temper is the one particular black cloud to the breeder, as its ravages are greatest among the finely bred dogs kept in large kennels or as pets, whose ancestors are wrought into the best blood lines of the breed. The disease is not confined to dogs. Dogs of low degree are susceptible to the malady, but rarely succumb. The com- mon man when attacked retires for a few days under the first available house or couch, to recuperate perhaps a little thinner and more careworn, but with his usual indolence and indifference.
"The disease has been compared to typhoid fever in man, but I can see but little analogy between them. Distemper is an infantile disorder; typhoid fever has no age limit. The diseases are communicated in an entirely different manner; typhoid fever is transmitted through the air, while distemper is transmitted through the animal's mouth; typhoid fever is referred to as a "fever," while distemper is a "disease." The transmission of typhoid by patches (i. e., small collections of intestinal glands) in distemper the mucous membrane lining the bowels, where the alimentary tract is the seat of the action of the virus, may be compared to the transmission of typhoid by feces, which are particu- larly affected and never display those lesions so characteristic of typhoid.
Of "the various diseases man is subject to, measles most closely resembles dis- temper in dogs. Both are infectious infantile disorders transmitted through similar channels and causing similar symptoms. Both are characterized by a high temperature through the course of the animal's life, with but a few exceptions. Catarrhal symp- toms, pulmonary complications and dysentery are common to both; convulsions also appear in both measles and distemper; and finally the principal characteristic of measles is its tendency to recur at intervals during life. In distemper, however, the case, spreading in twenty-four hours to all parts of the body, resembles the rash and pinchish prickly condition of the skin noticeable in some cases of distemper in the first stages, and the pimples that break out along the back and under the belly being similar to those seen in measles. This resemblance is due to the nature of distemper.
"The cause of distemper in dogs is a child's subject that has been discussed at length upon by authorities and breeders throughout this country in a very interesting man- ner. Some hold to the opinion that it may arise spontaneously, or as a result of damp, cold, poorly ventilated kennels, defective drainage, exposure, general neglect, improper rations food and other anti-bacterial conditions. Others believe that it arises from contact with infected animals and scatting at the time of spontaneity as being based solely upon negative evidence and insist that the disease arises and exists solely as a result of infection of the system by the specific virus organism which causes it. The latter view seems to be more acceptable because it is based solely upon failure to account for the disease by infection, and to observe and appreciate the remarkable vitality of the germ and the ease and innumerable changes by which it may be transmitted from an infected animal to one that was not at all exposed to it before.
"In the face of recent scientific investigation and discoveries, and in a disease so specifically contagious as distemper, it is impossible to discard the germ theory. The destructive milieu which causes the disease--probably a bacillus--has not been isolated; but the virus has been cultivated, and in the seventh generation
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
will produce the disease when inoculated in dogs, and still further attenuations of the virus will produce the disease in a mild form which affords the animal protection from future attacks. These experiments, while not successful in all ways, point exclusively to the fact that it is only a question of time when this disease will be as common as the dog flea.
"Most dog breeders are firm in the conviction that they have had cases arise spontaneously, and the rapid dissemination the disease works under anti-hygienic surroundings. The dog is a very susceptible animal, and the presence of specific disease producing micro-organisms operate, entitle hygienic surroundings, such as food, light and air, to an equal footing with the world poison so far as the severity or mortality of the disease is concerned."
"Cases of this nature are not uncommon, and in the production of specific diseases, are found everywhere in earth, air and water. All animals swallow these in their food, breathe them into their lungs in countless numbers, and the body is at all times exposed to the action of these micro-organisms. In experiments microbes introduced into the blood of healthy animals were inactive, whereas if the same animals became impoverished and weakened through foul air, impure food or water, or defective elimination, the blood became impure and active. This is a most important fact, because it shows that in those cases in which the germs lived, multiplied and set up their specific morbid action to the detriment and possible destruction of the economy. The natural conclusion is that while the specific germ is necessary for the production of a disease, it is not essential for its maintenance. It is evident that any system which is capable of affording a panulium for the reproduction, which is necessary for its specific action, otherwise it would be overcome by the economy and eliminated from the system; just as certain germs are incapable of reproducing themselves and are potential parasites when they enter into contact with their surroundings when these are unsuitable.
"Germs are not at all times attack the same organs and membranes. But the difference from the particular set affected contains the virus in its most concentrated form. This accounts for the dread breders have formed, through experi-
ence, of the nasal discharges of an affected animal, and for the vigorous objection made by some people who have observed dogs suffering from this disease to attend a veterinarian unless he can see a nose discharging mucus. A less attending attendant allows the dogs to drink from a bucket of water which may contain germs sufficient to cause an attack without any other means being available to stall instead of filling the dogs' pans.
"Diseaseser is not always fatal to man, but is to cats, wolves, foxes, jackals, lynxes and other animals used to attack in many highly contagious diseases, one attack successfully overcome with but few exceptions renders immunity from a second attack of the malady. One of the theories advanced as an explanation of this phenomenon was that there was some chemical constituent in man's blood which was different from that found in any other species. This theory has been abandoned on account of its being impossible to obtain any chemical constituent of the system which is essential to the production of the disease, and that after this constituent has been destroyed--as it will be through contact with the germs--and the animal has recovered it is impossible for the germ to produce disease again within which becomes the constituent necessary for its combination is absent from the system.
"There are innumerable channels through which a dog may be infected with disease-producing germs. They may be carried by dust inhaled through air or on a person's clothes, or a dog which has already had the disease can convey the germ in its coat from a sick dog to a well one. The use of kennels, feeding utensils, or shipping crates that have been previously used by an affected animal are common modes of inoculation. Dog owners are fertile sources of the spread of the disease,"
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129
and no matter how carefully the portable benching has been cleaned and disinfected,
it is always more or less a conveyance for the germs that produce the disease.
The popular fallacy of a meat diet being productive of distemper is entirely at variance with all our knowledge, as all carnivorous animals are markedly free from specific gern disease.
"The morbid locus of distemper attacks dogs in different ways, but breeders and owners regard it as a result of the dog's diet. The change in diet, however, affects the mucous membranes of the eyes and nasal passage and produces catarrhal discharge. In some cases the intestinal tract is the particular field upon which the virus effects itself; or the liver may be affected, or the bronchial tubes become involved. When the animal is suffering from this condition, it is com-
monly ascribed to some other cause, is when it is concentrated upon the brain and nervous system, the animal dying from collapse without any premonitory symptoms or developing epileptic fits. In some cases the animal becomes blind from the
breathing of the virus; and the puppy is doped accordingly. I have had several
cases in my own experience as a breeder, and my attention has been frequently called to this condition of things by others whose puppies have died in a few hours after birth. The symptoms are those of a severe catarrh, with vomiting,
falling to reveal the presence of these pests or any other exciting cause; and dis-
temper, from an absence of all catarrhal and febrile symptoms, would be the last thing to suspect.
"An attack of distemper of the ordinary catarrhal form is usually preceded by
lilienceousness and loss of appetite; the animal avoids the light and courts solitude;
all the symptoms of a common cold will then manifest themselves rapidly; as,
according to Dr. H. W. B. Smith, "the animal becomes listless, its appetite fails,
animal shivers, seeks warmth and is feverish, the pulse ranging from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty beats per minute; the nose is hot and dry, the
lining of the eye redened, and the small veins that radiate through the white por-
tion of the eye are swollen and congested; there is a tendency to sneezing; if sneeze
thirst is excessive, food is rejected and prostration is well marked; and so
rapid that at the end of a week the dog can hardly stand; the bowels are irregular;
in the early stages of this disease, there is often a tendency to collapse before
the dog attempts to digest sets up an irritation, and the dis-
charges are more frequent and looser than in health, and the feces are dark colored
and fetid. The discharges from the eyes and nose become purulent, the nostrils are
swollen and congested; there is a tendency to sneezing; if sneezing is excessive,
bronchial tubes fill with mucus, which is coughed up, giving temporary relief; the
animal vomits irony yellow matter and is unable to retain food upon the stomach;
the eyelids become glued together, resulting in blindness; there is a tendency to
sneezing; if sneezing is excessive, the breath becomes fetid and has a smell that
is peculiar to diseased and weaker and weaker and finally succumbs, or at the end of two or four-
teen days symptoms disappear completely. The intestines become inflamed,
regains its strength. Complications however, frequently develop early in the dis-
ease, and result in the death of the animal.
"One of the complications of distemper is pneumonia, or inflammation of the lungs. This complication occurs by a weakened heart action. The animal
will not lie down, but assumes a sitting position with the forelegs braced and sepa-
rated, the head hangs heavily, breathing is labored, rapid and heavy; and upon application of the ear to the chest, a dry cracking sound will be heard similar to that made when walking upon dry snow with a clean boot."
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"Epileptic fits are another complication. There is a rule come on suddenly.
There is a slight quivering of the muscles of the face, and an anxious look around,
a few staggering steps, and the animal falls upon its side and loses consciousness;
the face becomes distorted, the limbs work violently, and there is a continued
chattering of the teeth. The animal then becomes unconscious, and the limbs and body jerk violently, the convulsions gradually become less and less,
though sometimes the animal comes out of them suddenly and appears dazed and
scared, and will attempt to run away. This is very rare.
A number of fits during are prominent complications and sometimes there is
true dysmenia in which the fees are streaked with blood.
"In summing up this disease and arriving at a proper treatment we must be
misleadingly careful not to attribute all the symptoms to the direct results of a
world virus existing in the system, and that the course it runs, although indefinite,
is nevertheless certain, and the aim should be directed not only at the dis-
ease, but at ameliorating the system so as to enable it to withstand the debilitating
effects of this disease. It is also necessary to give attention to the administration
of administrations of exhausting and dangerous medicines, such as many dog owners
and veterinarians are apt to indulge in, cannot be too highly condemned.
The best treatment for this disease is a diet rich in nourishment and successful
treatment of this disease. Justicials medical treatment is of unquestionable service
in holding the disease in check, alleviating alarming symptoms, preventing destruct-
ive complication and hastening convalescence. But no matter how skillfully ac-
tion may be taken, it is impossible to prevent death in some cases. For many dogs,
proper care for, make nice recoveries without medical assistance.
Place the patient in warm, comfortable quarters, absolutely free from drafts; see
that it has plenty of fresh air; feed it a good diet; give it plenty of water; keep it
supplied as gently as possible with warm water; do not try to disturb the patient.
The food offered should be highly nutritious and easily digestible, such as beef tea or mutton broth thickened with rice or well boiled oatmeal. The feeding
should be given in small quantities several times daily. The dog should not eat any
bad animal and destroy what little appetite it may have. Scrawled raw beef is very
nutritious and can be mixed with gelatine; a dog will frequently eat this when it
will refuse everything else. A small appetite fails altogether after the animal recovers.
In addition to these foods, give a teaspoonful of honey three times daily; a
beef extract or beef tea with the addition of a raw egg; a cupful at a time four
times a day for fifty-pound dog; and if that quantity irritates the stomach it must be reduced to half a cupful at a time. A teaspoonful of black currant juice or
brandy must be given in milk punches to keep up the general strength.
"In the first stage of the disease the bowels are generally irregular, due to the
excretion of undigested matter in the intestines; it is advisable to move this
by a dose of 15 grains of quinine chloride per pound of body weight. This drug
to an ounce and a half for a large dog.
"After this has operated the most useful drug I have found for fortifying the
system is quinine chloride. The action on nervousness and chills which would otherwise be severe attack is hypophyseal of soda. The particular property of this drug either
within or without the system is to destroy fermentations and bacteria, and experiments
have conclusively proven its benefits in all diseases where morbid poisons are at work.
For example, I have treated two dogs suffering from tetanus with this drug for
three days kept fresh for three weeks; the blood of dogs similarly treated with the
exception of not having received the rubefacient was putrid in three or four days,
two that had received the saltpate in thirty grain doses with their food for five days."
![]() A page from a book about dogs.
DISTEMPER.
days and were then injected with fetid pus or the purulent discharge from a glan-
dered horse reeled, tormented, and were unable to walk for a few hours, but at the
end of five days recovered their health and appetite, the wound where the injection had been made healed nicely. Dogs treated similarly in every way with the ex-
cess of pus or pus discharge produced by the injection of the drug, died on the
sixth day with a purulent discharge from the eyes and nostrils, and the point where the injection was made became gangrenous. The dose of this drug is
therefore very small, and it is only given when there is no doubt as to the
condition of the bowels; if they become too loose the dose must be decreased.
"Quinine is another drug of great value in the treatment of distemper and all
febrile conditions. Its use is, however, abused from failure to understand its real
action. It is a powerful stimulant to the heart, and has a decided action upon
the nerves. Its effect upon the nervous system is to increase the excitability,
or quinine, besides lowering temperature and pulsation, is in small doses tonic and
stimulating, increasing the appetite and all digestive secretions. In large doses con-
stitutes it a powerful stimulant to the heart, and causes a temporary rise of tem-
perature. It acts also as a powerful antiseptic, attacking and destroying all pernicious micro-organisms. A full dose
(five grains for a St. Bernard) given at the first sign of illness and dejection or
other premonitory symptoms of an attack of distemper, while it may prevent
the disease from breaking out altogether, will not cure it once it has begun. On
the fifth or sixth day of the disease, when small doses of one to five grains should be given three times a day, but discontinued if any signs of disagreeing
with the dog are shown.
"Other remedies mentioned can be relieved by applying hot flannels to the skin
or the use of hot water baths. Hot fomentations or bandages wrung out of warm
water do more harm than good, as the animal generally gets chilled while they are
applied."
"Nitrates of potassium may be given in the dog's drinking water or in six to fif-
teen grain doses; it reduces fever and stimulates the action of the kidneys.
"If the pulse and temperature are very high a few drops of veratrum can be given
to each quart of water. The dose should be increased according to the condition from
one-eighth to one-third of a grain of the powder, at intervals of three or four hours.
"Epileptic fits and nervous symptoms are difficult to treat with any degree of
success. The best remedy is to give a strong solution of bromide of potassium,
the patient cutting teeth, lance the gums; if due to worms, the system is generally
too debilitated to stand the powerful drugs necessary to remove or destroy these
parasites. The patient, however, can be temporarily relieved by bromide in doses of
fourteensixteenths grain until he recovers sufficiently to take a stronger antimony
solution. If the excitement is extreme the bromide can be combined with four
to ten grains of chloral. The latter drug, when administered, should be mixed
with syrup of licorice to prevent its irritation.
"The stomach should be thoroughly emptied by carefully selecting those foods that
the stomach seems best able to digest, but if it is so irritable as to expel the
most easily digested foods, give from two to four drams of Scheele's strength of
bromide of potassium in water or milk; this will act as an emetic which will re-
lieve the irritability of the digestive organs and stop the vomiting.
"Diarrhea must not be too hurriedly checked, unless the discharges are so fre-
quent as to deplete the animals. In mild cases give paragoric in one-half
to three-fourths grain doses; in severe cases give one-fourth grain doses. One-
grain of chalk and from five to fifteen drops of ether and laudanum may be given in a little milk or soap.
"In arriving at the proper dose of the various drugs I have recommended, the
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
minimum dose is suitable for dogs weighing, when developed, from fifteen to thirty pounds, and the maximum is for dogs that will weigh in the vicinity of one hundred pounds. Larger or smaller animals should have the dose correspondingly increased or decreased, respectively. The dog should be six months of age or will age accordingly half a year after the normal animal of the same breed. For puppies under six months a corresponding diminution of the dose must be made.
"In conclusion I again desire to caution the owner against exposing his puppy to convalescence. Frequently in cases of distemper a very decided improvement in the condition of the patient will be observed, and the owner correspondingly elated and encouraged by the change. This is especially true with puppies who are kept in a warm house and are exposed to the sun during the day and kept in a kennel yard for a breath of fresh air.
The puppy in most cases, after blinking at the sun and stretching, will select the damp spot that the sun strikes in the kennel yard and curl itself up. A few moments later it will be found lying on its back with its legs extended and its old symptoms, with increased severity, are present, or the little bower's labored breathing indicates too plainly the fatal inflammation and congestion of the lungs."
The following is valuable on this disease: "A. J. Sereil, M. R., C. V. S., has lately been appointed veterinarian surgeon to the King of England, given the follow-
ing advice regarding the prevention of distemper:
"All distemper cases seem particularly prevalent, and the large shows recently held are sure to increase the number of cases; this article will assist read-
ers in recognizing the disease at the commencement, so that the infected animal may be isolated early, and thus prevent it possible, the spread of the disease to other dogs, especially young puppies, which have always a very poor chance of recovering.
"I know some few people, if they get a case of distemper in their kennels, take no measures for preventing it from spreading among their dogs. They do not even let their litter all together which have not had the disease come purposely in contact with the sick one, so as to let all those have it that will, and get over it for the time being. I must confess this is not my practice with my own dogs, on the contrary, I keep them separate until they recover then having it, and I know most
breeders are as anxious as myself to avoid it.
"As shows are no doubt the greatest source of spreading distemper, I advise
all dogs coming from shows to be examined by a veterinary surgeon before they go into service. The disease should not
be allowed to spread where any young stock in the kennel yard are kept who wish to be infected, and the further they are kept away the better. Not only is
this necessary, but a separate attendant is required. If you have the same man,
you can not be sure that he does not carry infection from one dog to another.
It is not likely that he would do so if he knew what was wrong with his dog,
but he may not know what is wrong with his dog because he does not see it.
It is not be the least danger of the disease spreading, and I feel pretty sure, if people would properly isolate all distemper cases the disease might be almost, if not entirely, eliminated from our country.
"The most sympton of distemper is a rise of temperature—if a dog is dull and
of his food, take his temperature. It is best to take it in the rectum, where tie
normal is about one hundred one one hundred and one and one-half degrees Fahrenheit (68° F.)—if it rises above eight degrees high it is degree lower.
If the thermometer registers two or three degrees of fever above normal you
may be sure there is something wrong, and the dog should be isolated at once;
and by doing this the infection may often be prevented spreading.
If the disease is
distemper other symptoms will soon develop, as a husky cough, loss of appetite
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135
and condition, and occasionally vomiting. The eyes are weak and sensitive to light, and there is often a little gummy discharge which collects along the edges of the lids; the breath is offensive, and the teeth become furred. Diarrhea may, or may not, occur. If the dog is kept in a warm room, the temperature may remain normal, or the dog assume his usual condition. But if the temperature, rises in distemper, after two or three days, may go down to normal; but do not be deceived by this, and think the dog is all right, but look out for some of the other symptoms. If the temperature remains high, and the dog is very irritable, and the fever will return again in a couple of days or so.
"People often think a dog cannot have distemper without there being a discharge from the nose; this is a mistake, but it certainly does occur in most cases though it does not always happen. In some cases the breathing becomes laboured, and the breath becomes affected the breathing is short and quick, not panting with the mouth open, the chest in tension on pressure. At first there is no cough, but after two or three days there may be a cough. The pulse is usually increased, and varies much accelerated, the beats varying from one hundred and ten to one hundred and forty per minute. In some cases the pulse is very slow, and may only be forty-eight to the minute; of course, this refers to a big dog. A pulse of this kind is worse than any other symptom. The heart action is also affected. The dog is very weak; it is also serious with lung complications. The hearts action in dogs is very frequently intermittent even in health. The eyes during distemper are often a source of anxiety, and in these dogs with prominent orbits, as Spanishs, pugs, etc., there is always an inclination to squint, which are extremely painful."
The following was written by "Weyravax" and published in *Field and Furrow*.
We cannot know too much on this most dreaded disease so I give the article entire:
DISTEMPER IN DOGS
"Each year brings around its popular dog shows, and in those days when nothing is thought of high prices being paid for good specimens in most all the breeds, many of which after winning fame in public competition succumb to distemper. The American public is in need of some sound advice, which will, if faithfully fol-
lowed, prevent many of these unfortunate cases. It has been found that a specific cure for distemper in dogs will have made his fortune, for probably 60 per cent of all the thoroughbred dogs bred annually die of this dread disease, at periods generally following the large shows in Eastern cities. The following practical sug-
gestion will help to prevent this fatal disease from spreading among our dogs. Distemper is raising; it is likely not too new to owners, but will be found most helpful by the yearly increasing number of novices, and result in an absolute knowledge of how to avoid it.
"We know that distemper commonly develops during the first year of life, either at periods known to be associated with teeth formation or approaching pharyngeal maturity.
"Periodic distemper, at its inception, shows a disturbed and inflamed condi-
tion of the membranous tissue of the alimentary canal. It is likely a condition corresponding to gypoid, as some maintain. Its germ certainly finds ready culti-
vation in such conditions which result from injury. Its first usual symp-
tom is a hard brachial cough, with frequent vomiting. Its second usual symp-
toms are no doubt caused by the stomach's disturbed membranous condition.
Whether at two or three months, or at six to ten months, or any age, the first thing to do when this cough appears is to clamp the dog up in some inside quarters where
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
air is good and floor dry. Here is where the first mistake generally takes place.
The fond owner, thinking because the dog is lively, that this cough is nothing more than some slight throat irritation or cold, allows the dog to sleep out in all kinds of weather, which conditions soon develops acute bronchial troubles, generally pneu-
mocentric, and often fatal.
"Statemper develops much slower than generally thought for. A dog is first noticed to be "off his food," soon the cough is noticed in the morning and toward evening, and then the dog begins to lose weight. The nose becomes congested with discharge and the nose sooner or later begins perhaps to discharge likewise thick purulent yellow mucus. Many a strong healthy dog will not show the effects of the early stages of the disease, but after break down all at once, as it gradually in-
creases in severity. When the symptoms of the early stage is reached, the owner can count on a month or more of close confinement."
Of great importance is the isolation of the patient, chained up free from activi-
ty and confined to one room. Dogs that have previously been ill with this disease,
but had what has been described, a hard case, may follow shitting her in with the
patient. She will aid the puppy in keeping clean and be very helpful in quieting
him. Your chances are that if this first move is made promptly, and faithfully
followed through, you will prevent the spread of this disease by its various seri-
ous effects of the ravages of the disease in its worst forms, and in a couple of weeks be over it. The dog that is kept chained up from the very first symptoms,
stares up his vital energy and strength, and has the benefit of it when any climax of
the disease occurs.
"In treatment, the writer does not believe in the speedy use of any medicine;
the less used the better you are off, and the dog generally, if at first your dog is
not under any great distress. The first step is to give him a good diet. A good diet
is oil a good beginning. If indications of worms are present treat for their removal.
If the patient refuses food for a couple of days, it will do no harm to let him go
without, but rather good. The first stage is no time to force food, but on the con-
tinuation of this treatment he will gain weight and appetite. The second stage is
and a general fevered condition exist, with quick breathing and much loss of ener-
gy, quinine in moderate doses, or any valid "grape" tablet that has been found
good in family use will usually cure it. The third stage is a condition of
soiling so severe as considering well the age and size of the patient, and not often
than once in three or four hours, being in mind its irritating effect on the atom-
ic tissues. The condition of the stomach is the most important factor to keep in
mind. If this condition exists, it must be treated immediately. The patient must
have the ability to digest and assimilate his food, as well as to eat it, in order
that its strength-giving properties can help overcome the deleterious effects of the
cough. The effect of this foreign germ lies in its attack on the system.
"Right here, begin at once, something that will, if followed up regularly, ally
the development of the worst tendencies of the disease. After the general clear-
ing-up of all other causes of coughing (which are numerous), give your dog,
long as its healthiness is indicated a tablet that can be purchased from any drug-
gist, being a compound of pepsin (one or two grams, according to age), bismuth
oxide (one gram), and tannic acid (one gram). This mixture should be given every meal,
if the patient takes food, and if not four times a day. They are easily taken
given, and their beneficial effect will soon be observed. They will soothe the in-
flamed membranous tissues and aid the proper digestion of food and its assimila-
tion."
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138
"In distemper, the feces are usually of a greenish, rank, pungent character,
indicating a decidedly unhealthy condition of the bowels, in the cause of which
both stomach infection and intestinal indigestion and lack of assimilation un-
derlie. The symptoms of distemper are often very similar to those of the common colds,
in what is known as the nasious and intestinal form of the disease which com-
monly develops when owners are too anxious to keep their dogs eating rich food,
when the dog's sytem cannot properly handle it. There is no necessity for this
disease to be kept secret, as it is a most serious condition, and may produce
severe results in most cases fatalities.
These simple and harmless tablets will first digest the food and make the dog
able to eat his food again, and soon after the inflamed intestinal conditions will
gradually make a dog's appetite good again and slowly but surely bring about the
conditions which permit healthy, well formed feces. When this is accomplished
more than half the battle is fought, for as long as the dog is running off to a
veterinary doctor he is only wasting time and money. The treatment of all forms
of gastrointestinal troubles, which are difficult to cure, many make the mis-
take of treating with stringent for diarrhea, which naturally only causes more
distemper. This is a great mistake, for these tablets are made from a mixture of
the moderate use of these tablets, for they can produce no harmful effects whatever;
and even should they be given without sufficient cause therefore existing, they would be
not a tonic and help to any normal conditions. All dogs (especially puppies) are
very susceptible to distemper, and while they are in their early stages of life they
are in their trump and native state have no such troubles. While our modern blooded
breeding has given us unbroken lineage in fine pedigree dogs, the dog constitution,
which is so important in determining health and longevity, is still very much vigo-
rous as it would otherwise be. Many a stud dog and brood bitch hardly ever de-
part out of a kennel yard; next it be wondered at, then that the blue-blooded puppies
inherit digestive organs that need some help now and then, and are susceptible
to distemper. The same applies to all dogs who are not allowed to run free and tend to pro-
duce a healthy environment in a kennel, but as the young puppy adds bone and tissue much finer than is generally considered, the organs that are re-
quired for this growth, great in proportion to size as it is, and speedy develop-
ment are not developed properly.
If your patient is well advanced in the purulent mucus discharge or acute
bronchial stage, before you get at him, which is usual in the experience of most veterinary surgeons, give him one or two tablets daily by mouth,
adding the possible help of some distemper medicine. While these undoubtedly
when properly used are very helpful, they are at best but stimulating tonics and
feed medicines, and it is well to have on hand whichever one you find gives
best results. In all cases where there is any doubt as to whether or not your dog has
disease rather generally poisoning the system—in fact, if the nasal mass develops,
use no time in arranging to put in a seton. Any veterinary can do it, but you
should not wait until it becomes necessary. A seton is a piece of soft material such as cloth close to skin for three or four inches square. Secure a piece of ordinary (tarred)
tarpsulm or common hemp cord, which should be soaked in a solution of carbohyl
urea and water. Cut cord at length of eight or ten inches. Catch one end of it
with a pair of scissors and tie it round your dog's neck just below his neck.
Hold skin just below occiput of skull bone, well up away from inner
ears through so that holes will be about two inches apart; tie good large knots
in each end of cord, dressing at first with antiseptic vamose, and leave it for
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
from five to ten days, dependent upon profuseness of discharge. Draw cord from knot to knot each day over, in order to keep outlet free. The insertion of this seton is not particularly painful, as it passes through the outer skin covering only, and can do no harm whatever. It should be kept as clean as possible. It will not irritate and drains off from the system a large amount of poisonous accumulations and will very soon relieve the head of the acute troubles there concentrated.
In almost all cases where the seton is used soon enough its aid is largely responsible for the cure. It is a valuable aid in the treatment of many diseases, an assistance in the last stages of the disease. Its use is of English origin, and one theory advanced to explain its benefit in dogs is that as a dog perspires only through the glands on his skin, and not through his lungs, it follows that cold and thus the dog cannot get an immediate drain much needed to carry off the poison and one accumulations about the inner body tissues. When the system is generally much poisoned with effects of distemper, this drain is very beneficial and never has been known to cause any ill effect. The dog should be kept warm by the cord and take it out. Keep some clean until healed, which will be accomplished within a few days, and in a month a new growth of coat will have covered up the effect of this treatment, so that no scars are left as a benefit on the patient.
Many dog owners have special food theories for distemper, a popular delusion being that meat fed to young dogs produces distemper. All young dogs should have meat in moderation, but too much is harmful. Meat is a good food for dogs, but they must also have plenty of fresh air and exercise. The frequent continual diet absolutely without salt is sufficient to cause most any kind of aliment. The writer's observa-
tion has been that a dog ill distemper gets along best when given limited quan-
tities of meat, but not too much. This diet should be continued until the dog
aims to make the stomach's work easy. Raw (fresh) beef cut fine or bread, fed three or four times daily, is most excellent. If milk is relied upon, sterilize it (traumatize) before feeding it to your dog. This will greatly improve his condition,
very generally very good and strengthening. Avoid alcoholic stimulants, except when dog is badly off; then give whisky and quinine as tonic, and may be a little por-
wine with milk. The following few important and brief "don'ts" will aid us in our examination of distemper.
Don't pour food down a sick dog when he ham'ts the ability to either hold or digest it. It only makes him worse.
Don't exercise a dog sick with distemper.
Don't use any drug other than proper doses of compound tablets (peptin, bismuth and charcoal).
Don't get scared at your dog's illness. It's better for him not to eat until he can eat it right again. He won't die of starvation.
Don't allow him to get his feet wet. This is likely to bring on pneumonia,
which is generally fatal.
A dog who has no matter how hot he may be, when down with distemper or convalescence should, scrub, comb and clean with powder (bour). Many a dog has contracted incurable chancres and it's twitches from a bath too soon after distemper.
Keep him away from the water for three months at least.
Keep him well off chat as soon as he begins to feel better. Keep him there till well, leading him for exercise only when convenient. Relapses are common and often fatal.
When your patient is once well over distemper you can risk him anywhere,
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying on its back with its legs raised.
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137
for dogs do not have the real thing but once. If your dog's system is left very much run down, blood tonics are good, according to individual needs. Scott's English Veterinary Medicine.
The most important safeguards to bear in mind are: (1) Absolute quiet on clay in dry quarters. (2) Tablets regularly given and constant care. (3) The selon promptly put in before the case has advanced to the fatal or acute form of distemper. (4) The best way to prevent this disease is by keeping up the animal's development it leads to. Whoever faithfully follows the suggestions given in this article will have no fear of any fatal results from distemper. The ideas herein expressed are new, but the result of years of practical experience of varying results with young stock. Considerable success has been obtained by giving the drug after all, if used in time, is far better than medicine. We hear of all kinds of "cures" including those who still have faith in "coffee," the "pellet" of "buckshot," or doce that "the dog must be kept out of the sun." This is a dangerous practice. Should we not give our precious dogs, whose value every year is increasing with their educated usefulness and close companionship, the benefit of up-to-date intelligent care, rather than the "guage at it" methods of the past?
Modestly submitted for the benefit of mankind's faithful dog, sometime-where.
The following very complete and exhaustive article on DISTEMPER was written especially for this book by Dr. George W. Clayton.
DISTEMPER.
"History.-The disease now known as canine distemper made its appearance at a very early period. According to Laconius, it was known at the time of Aristotle, and the gnosticus that invaded Bohemia during the year 1028 and decimated the country. Distemper is now known to have been a common disease. It made its appearance in England on the Continent of Europe about the latter part of the eighteenth century. First in Spain, and travelled from there to other countries. It appeared in England and France about 1740. In Germany in 1748. In Italy about 1750. In Russia about 1760. It has spread over the world wherever the dog is found. From the time of its first appearance until 1850 it was one of the most fatal diseases to which the dog is subject.
Pathology.--Distemper is an acute contagious disease, caused by the exotoxin produced by a virus or germ. It has been known under various names. Opium diffuses itself as its nature. Some authors have compared it to typhoid or typhus in man, others to varioha. A number of different authors describe it as a catarrhal fever, as it affects all the membranes of the body. The nervous system generally if not always involved, and there is also a characteristic skin eruption.
In conclusion, I submit that the exciting cause of distemper we are convinced by recent investigations some other than a virus or germ or more forms of the same germ. As the disease is very highly contagionous, clearly defined, and well characterized, the existence of a specific germ must be admitted. According to this theory the spontaneous origin of cases is due to a virus or germ being present in some individuals and absent in others. If this be true, there must be a continued propagation of the poison, and a continual transmission of this poison.
The poison exists in the air in a fixed and volatile state, and enters the sys- tem by the nose and mouth.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
"The virus can be communicated from one animal to another, and transmis-
sion by cohabitation is more easily effected than by inoculation."
"The germ has great vitality and great power of resistance. It may undergo
desiccation in the air and still retain its virulence. It can exist a long time
exposed to the air, and yet it will communicate the disease when brought
into contact with susceptible individuals.
"It has been found that the virulent properties of the germ are not lost in any
change of temperature, or when exposed to a temperature of 20 degrees Centigrade, but does lose some of its power if preserved in a dry
state and kept for any length of time.
"Under proper conditions the poison of distemper can reproduce itself without limit.
"The blood of the affected animal has been found to be contagious; also the
secretions from the eyes and nose.
"Vacination of young animals by means of the secretory fluid from animals
affected with the disease was tried and has produced the disease artificially.
The results obtained from vaccination generally runs a mild course. The
hability of dogs to contract distemper is not the same at all ages, and under all
circumstances and conditions. Old dogs have a greater chance of escape, this being due to their greater experience in life, and their greater ability to
the course of their first year. Sometimes whole litters of puppies being carried
off by it. Some animals seem to possess immunity from the malady, and one
attack successfully destroys the germ in them. Others, from another cause, very rare
cases occur which tend to this rule. Distemper is not confined to any locality, but
all seasons, in the country it may be more rife at some seasons than others, but in
large cities it exists permanently.
"Pneumonosis Caxillaris--In distemper, as in all similar diseases, there are
predominating symptoms. Any thing that weakens the constitution, or that tends to
debilitate, or lessen the animal's resisting power would be predisposing causes.
An animal that has a weakened constitution inherited from the sire or dam, from
an accident or injury, or from overwork or overfeeding, or from poor food,
parents. We will say, then, that age, environment, condition of the constitution at
the time of exposure, individuality, etc. are all important. The sudden alteration
in the environment, like a change of weather, or of feeding, exposure to damp and
cold, or to heat and dryness, or to dust and dirt, or to noise and excitement,
generally, with the crowding together of large numbers of dogs that have lived
under different conditions, etc., badly drained, ill-ventilated kennels with insuf-
ficient air circulation, overfeeding, and too little exercise are all favorable for the spread of the disease.
"ANIMALS AFFECTED.--Distemper is found in the dog, cat, fox, wolf, hyena,
prairie dog and monkey.
"CLINICAL SYMPTOMS.--Symptoms of canine distemper are manifold and rather,
complicated. They may involve the ocular, respiratory and digestive mucous mem-
branes; also the nervous system and outer integument or skin. For the purpose of
description we will divide them under the following general heads:
SYMPTOMS OF COMENCEMENT.--The period of incubation is usually from
four to six days after exposure. The first symptom is often noticeable in this disease. The next symptom that will be noticed is some disturbance in the
general condition. The animal will seem to be chilly and have shivering spells,
the nose is hot and dry, the skin is hard and the hair becomes harsh and dry,
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog with a red spot on its head.
**DISTEMPER.**
The animal loses its appetite, is restless and seems depressed, and soon tires on slight exertion. Vomiting may occur.
**SYMPTOMS ON THE OUTER INTESTINE.** There is sometimes a characteristic circular swelling of the intestine. This eruption generally occurs on the inner facts of the thighs, and on the abdomen, or it may cover the whole body. It first appears as small red spots, generally scattered. Sometimes, but very rarely, they are confluent, then there is a change and they appear as small blisters filled with yellowish fluid. These blisters break down and form small ulcers which are covered by a crusty scab. The scabs fall off and leave a red, circular spot on the skin, and these spots are some time in disapppearing. Sometimes pits or ulcers appear in the skin. In this case the disease is called "scab". Occasionally this trouble is only slight and confined to parts of the body, but at times it extends over the whole surface of the body. When the trouble is very extensive there is a febrile odor given off from the body, the hair becomes matted and dirty, and the animal becomes very weak. This is one symptom that is observed, but in these cases the disease is of a very mild form.
**STORMY SPOON IN THE EYES.** In the majority of cases there is a catarrhal conjunctivitis. The eye water, the cydria injected, the conjunctiva become inflamed and swollen. At first the exudate is serous, later on it becomes mucous, and still later on it becomes purulent, in color light grey or yellowish. This discharge collects in the corner of the eye and forms a thick crust which is often very large. The eyelids become inflamed, and very frequently glues the lids together during the night. Lesions of the cornea may be caused by the corrosive action of the secretion, and the resulting inflammation of the surrounding membranes. The animal scratching and rubbing its eyes with its forepaws causes much suffering.
There is at first a slight swelling which afterwards forms an ulceration. After this process has ceased and healing takes place there is white little spots or dark brown spots on the cornea which are often accompanied by a cloudy appearance of the cornea. The inflammation may extend when the whole eye becomes acutely inflamed and breaks down. The eye symptoms accompanied by a fever is sometimes the only symptoms of the disease.
**SYMPTOMS OF THE LARYNX AND TRACHEA.** There is usually an inflammation of the mucous membrane of the air passages of a catarrhal nature. We have, first, catarrh of the nose, marked by sneezing, and the animal will rub or wipe his nose with his forepaws. Then there follows a catarrhal inflammation of the pharynx which may be severe or not so severe, then mucous, and later on purulent, and generally quite an odour to this discharge. There is a stifling respiration. The nose sometimes dry and cracked, and ulceration covering the membranes of the nasal fossae. When the discharge from these membranes becomes copious it may cause suffocation. In addition to all this there is a swelling of the larynx we have a loud, hoarse, dry cough, which causes the animal a great deal of discomfort. Later on it becomes moist and looser, and there is usually a profuse discharge accompanying this reaction which may produce vomiting.
There is not much difficulty in distinguishing between these last two affections when the bronchial tubes become involved and the inflammation extends down ward and produces bronchitis, there is a very great increase in respiration, and a very strong coughing fit.
**SYMPTOMS OF THE DIGESTIVE TRACT.** In catarrh of the stomach, which occurs in this disease, there is generally complete loss of appetite, and the animal vomits a frothy liquid.
There is a febrile diarrhea, or infrequent defecation and intense thirst. The discharge from the bowel is of a liquid consistency, generally mucous
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purulent, and may be streaked with blood, while the abdomen will be found to be very painful on pressure.
**Nervous Symptoms.—The animal's senses are very dull and he seems much depressed. There may be deep coma, or periods of excitement occur, nervousness and delirium. The animal may show signs of restlessness, twitching of the muscles, especially of the head and limbs. At times there is twitching of the muscles of the lower jaw that causes the saliva to foam; again the animal may have a tendency to bite his own tail or ears, or to scratch at his head or run around as if lost. A haggard appearance of the eyes, the head thrown back-ward, the animal perhaps having convulsions. There may be motor paralysis, the animal unsteady in its actions, may drag his legs or there may be loss of power in the hind legs. The animal may show signs of depression, listlessness, and loss of appetite. There may be vomiting, with or without diarrhea, and a profuse loss of control of the bladder and lower bowels, when the urine and feces are involuntarily evacuated. When an animal is in a poor state of health, being anemic and in a generally run down condition, there may be with very severe general weakness and weakness of the heart may occur. Some complications seem to succumb easily, while others seem to withstand more acute attacks.
**Complications.—Some of the complications that occur in distemper are catarrhal bronchitis, pneumonia, diarrhoea, paralysis, paralytic ileus, and some form of en- chorea.
**Diagnosis.—When the animal is dull, has a poor appetite, and loses flesh, the case should be suspected, especially if there has been exposure to the disease. The horse's temperature is usually high and is accompanied by fever which is diagnostic of this disease. The thermometer should be used in these cases.
**Treatment.—The prognosis of distemper we regard as favorable if the case is seen early and properly treated. The danger increases with the severity of the symptoms at the onset of the disease. A persistent high temperature, or a subnor- mal temperature are both serious symptoms. The following are unfavorable circum- stances: 1) when the disease is accompanied by diarrhea; 2) when there are complications such as pneumonia, etc., or when the animal is very young or weak, and anemic; or when the disease attacks different organs at the same time. Death may occur from paralysis, convulsions, or exhaustion. In all cases where death occurs or from severe exhaustion. Among the favorable circumstances are the maturity of the patient, good constitution of the animal, mildness of the attack, and when the disease is confined to circumscribed regions, or to one organ of the body.
**Prevention.—It is advisable to keep dogs free from distemper by proper con- siderations. It is a good plan to have a small kennel or room where there will be plenty of fresh air without draught into which cases of suspected distemper may be confined until they are well enough to go out into larger quarters. The use of the filtres in a separate kennel or room. Everybody who has been through this disease and all quarters where the animal has been should be burned if possible. If it is not desirable to burn the quarters there should be a thorough disinfecting of them with carbolic acid solution (one part carbolic acid to ten parts water). In con- nection with the case, such as feeding and drinking pans, should be thoroughly dis- infected. A dog with distemper should not be allowed to mingle with others, how- ever well he may seem, so long as he has any discharge from eyes or nose, and should not be allowed to play with other animals until he has been treated and have been especially disinfected by washing or injecting a suitable solution; the animal should be washed all over, the water being medicated with Clayton's Coccine Dog Wash, Sanitaro, or the Standard Disinfectant. As an animal in a run-down
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debilitated condition will contract distemper more easily than one in perfect health. It is essential that the animal be kept in as perfect health as possible. As all dogs are subject to congestion, especially if confined in the house, his bowels should be kept open, and there is nothing so good for this purpose as Clayton's Laxative Pills.
**PATHOLOGICAL ANATOMY.** Lesions of the respiratory tract are as follows:
The trachea is filled with a thick, yellowish fluid. The bronchi are inflamed and covered with a mucous-pus exudate. Numerous eczemosic spots are found on the membrane. The mucous membrane of the larynx, trachea and bronchi is inflamed and covered with a thick, yellowish fluid. The bronchial tubes are filled with a thick, yellowish fluid. The bronchial lymphatics are infiltrated, tumefied, and in rare cases purulent. The surface of the lungs are covered with a thick, yellowish fluid. The bronchial tubes are filled with a thick, yellowish fluid. The bronchial tubes are as follows: The mucous membrane of the small intestines is red, and numerous eczemosic spots are found, also hemorrhages in the submucous sac. Occasionally the colon is filled with a thick, yellowish fluid. In some cases the alterations of the cerebrum are found to be bloody. In other cases there are the alterations of the cerebrum which are abnormal in character: in the lateral ventricles and dilatation of the blood vessels of the brain. We have observed an increase of the liver, kidney, and anus in an abnormal swelling of the pharyngeal glands.
**TREATMENT.** The treatment of distemper is principally symptomatic. We have, however, a remedy that is capable of destroying the contagious germ. Our remedy is Clayton's Distemperine Pills. These pills contain 0.5 per cent of quinine. Tablets enable us to combat the disease successfully. As soon as symptoms of disconcert are observed, careful attention to all hygienic conditions should be given to prevent further spread of the disease. Attention should be given to ventilation for the animal, and more especially there should be plenty of fresh air, but no draughts. These quinones should be thoroughly digested (See Clayton's Caledon Dog Wash) with changes of bedding daily. The administration of Clayton's Distemperine or similar remedies should be continued until all symptoms have disappeared. Directions for giving directions to directions. The discharge from the nose and eyes should be looked after and removed several times daily, or as often as it collects. The eyes should be bathed with warm water often, as it is a great relief. This matter is too often neglected by owners who do not give their dogs proper care. Chloroform or Elixir Chloroform should be applied to prevent those serious lesions that so often occur in this disease. If there are skin manifestations Clayton's or Etherhart's Manege or Skin Balm may be used locally, and if any disturbance occurs in digestion or absorption sometimes causes these serious disturbances in cases where the disease is localized in the organs of digestion, very careful attention should be given to the ailment. Careful nursing and feeding are of the utmost importance. The dog's food should be changed every day and made up according to its appetite. Chopped raw beef is often taken when all else is refused, sheep's head broth with oatmeal or rice is very good. If the animal is very weak, beef tea, raw eggs and port wine should be given often but in small quantities. If food is refused enough attention should be paid to retain the food so that may be fed per snout. Strong purgatives are not advisable in these cases because they injure the animal should be kept quiet.
When the animal is suffering from diarrhea, it must be kept quiet, and cod liver oil is valuable in these cases, while Clayton's Condition Pills with pepsin give remarkably good results.
![]() A dog lying down.
FEEDING.
FEEDING.—There is an important subject which should be well understood. No dog over six months old should ever have over two meals a day, and regularity in this respect is just as important to dogs as it is to man's beings. Dogs must have their food. I have on an average of seventy-five dogs in my kennel, and here is their bill of fare. For breakfast, which is served about seven o'clock in summer and winter, yet does SPRAETT'S PREMIUM DOG Cakes for their breakfast, fed with hot water, and with a little salt added. This is a good meal, but it is not sufficient food and to be fed often (not twice a day). This I break up with a hammer on the board walk in their yards, or in wet weather, on the kennel floor, spreading it on the ground, so that they can get at it easily. It is not necessary to feed them with a relish, and why shouldn't they? It is a prepared food for dogs, composed of beef, flour, oatmeal, horse meal, etc., in fact articles that a dog needs.
For lunch and dinner, I give them a good meal of meat, either boiled or roasted, and its use will give a dog good coat, a clean breath and sound, handsome teeth.
As to the diet of puppies—whose teeth are developed sufficiently then they can have it; but before that time they should be given a diet of milk mixed with bread crumbs. This is more suitable for the youngsters. See their page advertisement in front of book, or I can furnish you with it.
As a rule it is best to feed dry, although occasionally it is a good plan to mix meat with water or hot or cold water or with soup. Dry, it serves the purpose of a bone and good for cleaning teeth, sweetening breath and is digestible. I let my dogs eat almost what they want for breakfast, but if any is left, don't let it lie around too long. The same applies to dinner. If there is any left over after supper, and its use will give a dog good coat, a clean breath and sound, handsome teeth.
Until supper time, about five o'clock, they get nothing, and this is as it should be; then their supper is lean boiled beef and mutton cooked in a large kettle (properly greased) with water and salt. This gives them plenty of nourishment.
My kennel man then, when this is well cooked, takes out all the meat and bones, cuts off of them about all the meat—and cuts up the meat into small pieces—and puts these into the pan where the puppies are kept during the night, making a mush of it, which is allowed to sit and cool till feeding time. Dogs then fed in pans separately, using the mush and some of the cut-up meat, mixed together in their pan, some dogs getting more meat than others; as per how fat they are. The rest of the day they are fed on bread crumbs. They do not fight at meal time; are fed together in the main yard from trays or larger pans. Fans are all gathered up and washed that night so as to be sweet and clean for breakfast.
The puppies are fed three times daily; one at morning; one at noon; one at evening—the bones, which we throw out in the yards so that each one has a large bone to gnaw on—and don't they enjoy this? We watch them while they are at the bones, where "the push" are together; to guard against fights which might occur; as dogs sometimes fight over bones. Generally, a word from me will stop this trouble, but if not there is a whip handy and it is properly used to quell the disturbance promptly.
Children born in our family bear like friends; they love us as much as we love them; because they know that we love them as much as you must know that all such love passes down through all the intestines, which means a dangerous, risky trip; as it is not a straight line but a very winding and crooked one; the great danger in this slipper is that unless he thrusts through the throat, his intestines will be puncturing or getting lodged in
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Its trip through, which would mean death to the dog. Burn all your chickens
boxes excepting the necks.
Vegetables and rice mixed in the mush you have made are very good for it
change, and the bill of fare can thus varied once a day, which will be
appreciated by the animal. It is also best to use, cabbage not agree-
withing with all dogs; potatoes are too fattening and possess very little nourishment.
A baked sweet potato is relished by dogs, but the same objection applies here,
because it is too fattening.
All dogs should have more or less hard feed two or three times a week at
any rate, a bone or a biscuit, or something they can use their teeth upon and not
be lost. A dog's teeth are just as important to its continued well-being as those of a human being. The teeth of dogs should be kept clean and healthy with a face brush;
every care should be exercised in order to preserve the teeth.
Of vegetables, onions, carrots, turnips, beet, and potatoes are the most
nutritious for forming the diet of dogs. Beets and onions should be used
but contain few of the proper properties. Gattum is fattening but heating; rice forms
an ideal food for toys, being very easily digested, matifying, but not too stimula-
tive; pear barley, sago, tapioca, and semolina may all be made use of as changes
in the diet of dogs. Rice is a good food for dogs in the early stages, but in combination with other material it may and should be used freely in a kennel. Only note that it is fresh, and boil at once, which goes far
to improve it, and destroy most imperfections it may possess.
The dog's diet must be carefully regulated when nourishment has to be given with a spoon. Cooked liver is not a bad thing to mix in the food
once in awhile, but not often than once a week. Pork or veal are not good for dogs unless they are fed on them regularly. Mutton is good; milk is
some buttermilk once or twice a week; sour milk (clabber) is also very good
once in a while. Corncorn meal or baked corn bread for a change in stokes is
all right, but much too heating to the blood in summer. Candy, cake, or anything
sweet should never be given to dogs. The dog's diet must be regulated so that
them poison in small doses. Many a dog has died before its time due to this
misguided kindness of its master or mistress. When Darling Pido so frictions his
body with his forepaws until he is bleeding profusely from his ears and with
his back arched, his feet tucked in towards each other, and vainly trying ev-
ery possible posture to escape the pain, he is merely suffering the natural result of
that last hug of sympathy. True, Pido may have bad sugar frequently without
dying; but he does not live long after that. The dog's diet must be regulated so that
no surmise need be felt if persistence in the kindly-meant but objectionable
practices induces repeated attacks of colic, ending in inflammation and death.
I have been called "the dog doctor" because I am always ready to give due
attention to any dog who over-feeds him; but could do it no good, for it was so fat,
asthmatical and wheezy that it could hardly walk or get its breath; no medical
skill could avail and the pet had to die--not its fault, but its owner's. Take my
own case. I was called to see a dog who had been eating too much meat every day,
perhaps by "fitting up" or "speaking," but treat it with true kindness by feeding
as I have advised,and never often than twice a day. Always keep clean, fresh
water handy; and insist upon that it is never exposed to the sun. Eggs are good food for dogs; but some find them disagreeable; others do not like them;
very few of them can hold it down. Chicken gravy, or the gravy with a little
hour in it, as the wife makes it in stewing chicken giblets, is often accepted by
a sick dog after refusing everything else that has been offered it.
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Quite a valuable article is the following, taken from America's Stock-croper,
as to feeling of Toy Tacs. In it are good ideas, especially applicable to dogs at
beach shows, but good to adopt even for dogs at home.
"The proper way to feed toy dogs is an interesting subject of debate where two or three are gathered together in show corners. There is no proper way
for feeding them, as they vary greatly in size and both in their breed and
individuals. Sloppy food, for toys as well as in the interest of bigger dogs, must
be avoided, and food that is solid and somewhat concentrated is indicated. In
the case of Pomeranians and other long coated dogs strong food is more desir-
able than soft food, as these dogs have a very active nervous system which
he must. Likewise the nervous energy of these small dogs must be taken into
consideration. The Pomeranian for instance, will wear himself to a shadow
naturally when he has been fed a soft diet. A diet rich in animal food, but dif-
fered, digestible, much in a little, is the proper thing, and this diet is
better than underdone (rare) roast beef and chicken, which vary to the diet
may be alternated with fresh tripe and white fish, from which all bones
must be removed before being fed.
"Pet dogs, whose vigorous constitutions and active appetites call for a greater
bulk of food, should be fed on boiled rice or steamed bread in conjunction
with the meat, the meat being fed last. It is not necessary to fill them little glasses
out with milk or other liquid. Pigs' feet are excellent for dogs. Pig's feet are
does not fatten like meals. Should a dog take to the dog biscuit these may
also be given chopped dry.
"Many dogs suffer more or less from cankered teeth through on by
fermentation in the stomach. In most cases due entirely to an indigestible diet
of sloppy, sweet foods. Buckwheat all these and bring the little chaps down in a dry,
hard diet if possible, or a diet which will make them chew and not lap up their
food. This diet should be made up of such things as oatmeal, rice, potatoes,
would digest nails, as the saying goes, but civilization has altered all this for
the pet dog, as well as for his owner, and modern excesses work their ill on both.
So
the different conditions must be met."
The following written by Drvz, is especially intended to apply as to Fec-
ing of Hunting Dogs:
"The dog is a carnivorous animal, and although domestication and associa-
tion with man have in some respects altered or affected his organs of digestion,
he thrives best upon a mixed diet or one containing both meat, grain and vege-
tables. The proportions of these depend altogether upon the individual's consti-
tutional condition existing under health, as the work he is called upon to do.
These matters are best determined by expert advice and experience. Meat and water are to the muscular system what fuel and steam are to the locomotive.
Muscular exertion calls for a destruction of muscular elements; the destruction of
these elements requires fuel; hence meat is essential. The excretion of waste products of
efete poisonous matter that the kidneys and bowels are called upon to remove.
"If the dog is in good condition, the muscular firm, elastic and properly nur-
tured by its diet, enough effort will be produced only the minimum amount of heat or waste matter. If the animal is overfed or overworked muscles
soft and flabby, surrounded by fat, slight exercise will consume a large amount
of this tissue and produce a corresponding amount of heat and waste product.
And if these poisonous waste products that the athlete, horse and dog have
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to contend with, and, no matter how carefully trained it is, these waste products eventually limit their performance.
"A dog's wind may be all right, he is ready to go and wants to go, but if the production of these waste products is too rapid for their removal by the kidneys and the liver, they will accumulate in the blood stream and partially paralyze the nerves controlling the muscles and they refuse to act."
"The fat or muscle-making possibilities of various foods and the animal's initial condition can be studied very intelligently by the use, after exercise or work, of a thermometer. The animal that has been working hard and has had a short of actual exhaustion produces the minimum degree of heat as registered by the thermometer, the animal is in the best condition and the foods that will afford these results are the foods to be adopted, and the foods that produce the highest degree of heat for a given amount of work are to be avoided, as a general working system.
"It can be laid down that the quantity of meat can be reduced during the cold season and increased during the working season to almost an all-meat diet with an occasional addition of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, or grains of wheat.
"When hony, rice or barley shorts should be baked on bread pans and allowed to cool and afterward broken up and softened with meat liquor, soup or other liquid, this food will be more palatable than any other. At a high price, ease of obtaining and preparing, but it is a fat producer and not a muscle builder. No horse trainer would feed it to a thoroughbred when conditionizing him for a race, and while trainers may feel satisfied with the way their dogs eat this food, they would be capable of greater muscular effect if fed on one of the other grains.
"A very good way of preparing food for a starting of dogs is to purchase a few sheep's heads, a couple of bovées' heads, or a liver or two, or twenty or thirty pieces of beef heart. These should be boiled until they are thoroughly cooked, and the meat can easily be scraped from the bones. This meat should then be chopped or shredded into small pieces and mixed with a sufficient quantity of whole weight of whole wheat flour, one cup of meal, softened and worked up until it is moist enough so that it will be added enough thick moisture to slightly sweeten the whole and then it is to be thoroughly baked over a slow fire and afterward allowed to not only cool, but par-baked. This food can also be made into a paste by adding water or milk. Break it up into pieces, and feed dry or soften it with meat or vegetable soup. This food can also be improved by adding vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, beetles, onions or cabbage, in the proportion of one pound of vegetables to from three to four pounds of meat.
"The sportman owning only one or two dogs who will condition his dogs on food prepared in this way, and who will carry with him a sufficient quantity to provide for his dogs while on a hunting trip, will be amply repaid by their superior performance. The sportman who goes back to the makeshift diet of table scraps that is too often resorted to.
"Dog biscuits simplify the feeding problem and the professional trainer or sportman who uses them as a staple diet can go on an extended hunting trip or even a long trip without having to worry about providing food for his dogs. In preparing food, and feel sure of hit dog having a properly balanced ration. The ordinary dog biscuit contains only a small proportion of meat, hardly sufficient for a dog during the close season. When hunting or training it is advisable to
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have a special biscuit prepared with the proportion of meat doubled or trebled, or feed fresh meat in addition to the regular biscuit.
The number of meals a dog should be given daily is a matter frequently discussed among fanciers, but it is generally agreed that a morning and evening (full dry), such as two or three dog biscuits or their equivalent, and a full meal at night. The morning meal should be given at least one hour before the dog is put down in the field, so as to enable the stomach juices to partially digest it. Under these conditions, the dog will show no signs of indigestion, and his digestion will be greatly improved. The stomach, like all muscles and organs, requires during action an increased blood supply. During exercise the blood is drawn from the stomach and other internal organs to give them more strength for the work they have to perform. This is especially true when the animal has a heavy load with a hilly hill to ferment and produce a diarrhea or dysentery that will incapacitate the animal. Table scraps and "pick up" if clean and fresh, free from fat and grease (those things which are tolerated for house or pet dogs, but which are not tolerated by those who attempt to take his dog out on a hard season hunting) on such food is blind to his own and his dog's interest.
**Purina Puppies.**—Now as to feeding of puppies. As soon as they are weaned, whether they are bottle-fed or not, they should be fed on milk or milk substitutes until they are about four weeks old. At this time they should be fed on a diet of boiled or scalded milk (never fresh raw milk with a puppy) in which soak some brand potatoes and gravy, bread and gravy, and mops with plenty of vegetables in, such as carrots, turnips, beets and rice. In addition to this, a little meat broth may be added, it is a very nourishing and favorite food for puppies. If the scalded milk is found to be too concentrating, add some oatmeal porridge to thicken it. When the puppies are about six weeks old, they should be fed on a diet of meat broth with some of the vegetables that are needed. No one cares to eat the outside skin of a leaf, so that may be applied to the state, hard, and broken up for the little dog, well soaked in the sores or milk. Spratton's Patent makes a special puppy biscuit that is very good to feed to the young dogs. It is made of ground meat, flour, sugar, salt and water. This biscuit should be broken up into small pieces. You can also feed this softened in soup. When the puppy is about up to three months old, I would then give this biscuit for breakfast every day, full of hot broken into small pieces. A very little cooked beef and mutton, or any other kind of meat that you wish to feed your puppy food, and some of the mush of stale bread (see article on Purina) will be all right to give them in, which you can mix thoroughly the finely cut up meat with the bread mush. The puppies should be fed four times a day and then gradually cut down to three meals a day, which will generally be enough often to feed until they get up to four from five months old. At six months old, or about there, put them on the regular bill of fare for dogs. They will then grow rapidly and become strong; but do not so liberally deal out at supper, but the large bones they have free access to with the older dogs. I don't believe in keeping a puppy on a milk diet too long; though it is sometimes done because they are their first time.
Bark all your choker, fartery and fish bone or any small bones like those from a lamb's chop. Small bones are dangerous. Dogs chew them up rapidly and become choked by them; but if you keep them away from them you prevent your dog's throat the wrong way or fail to pass through without any detention—it's generally a case of "good-by dog." Many dogs have died from this alone.
Avoid sharp bones, especially fish and chicken bones, as you would poison them for frequency are more effective in killing a dog than in arresting some course.
other deadly agent; in that poison can be neutralized by powerful antidotes or removed by the use of emetics, while a bone fins its way into the intestines and does its deadly work without hindrance.
Confections, cake and dainties of all sorts should also be cloosed from the bill of fare, as they are liable to produce a condition beside those which bring effect create a false and dainty appetite which interferes with the regular menu, causing a smaller quantity to be consumed owing to desire to get something nice or an artificial repugnance to substantial food if there is a possibility that "sugar" will be forthcoming.
**BREEDING.**
**BREEDING.**—This article was written by HARRY W. LACY, Kennel Editor of American Stock-Kepper.
"Yound bitches often exhibit symptoms of an inclination to breed at the age of 15 months, but this is not uncommon until they have come in season the second time. Remarks we made last week against the advisability of resorting to the services of too young a sire apply with even greater force to the case of a bitch who has been bred before her first season, and almost sure to be produced from a young mother; and the injury they are likely to do her constitution is incalculable. It must be borne in mind that for weeks before birth her system is surely taxed to provide them with nourishment, and after delivery of twins is gone through there is further strain upon her until they are weaned.
"The first symptom afforded by a bitch that she is likely to be soon ready for breeding is a change in her coat, which may be noticed when she meets. This may possibly arise from merely exuberance of spirit, but it is always well to keep a close eye upon her as soon as any undue lividity is observed in her conduct. It is most desirable to use every endeavor to keep the animal in good health during the period of gestation, and it would be difficult beyond doubt all former precautions should be doubled if possible. It must be remembered that there is not only a great risk of dogs getting into the place where she is confined, but that she will probably be equally anxious to escape from her kennel, and it will be necessary to take all precautions to make her feel safe in their endeavors to so.
"She should, if at a distance, be sent off to the kennels where the dog is claimed, and if near home after the earlier symptoms appear, no use to be taken if dispatched by public conveyance, it is imperative that she be securely confined in a box or basket from which escape is impossible. All breeders should be careful not to allow any one to enter the premises where they have bitches by them under such circumstances. For several days after the bitch has visited the dog, the precautions for isolating her want not be relaxed, or all her owner's hope may be marred by her forming a connection with a stray."
Having selected a proper mate for his bitch, and sent her to him, all anxiety is removed from an owner's mind for some time at least; for during the first period of going with young, the bitch will require no special diet or attention.
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During the latter portion of her pregnancy she is peculiarly liable to chills; every care should therefore be taken to avoid any risk of her taking cold, and all washing operations and violent exercise must then be suspended. Our own experience has taught us that in the majority of instances it is almost impossible to tell whether or not the bitch is in whelp until the third or fourth week, and on many occasions we have known brawlers to be in doubt for a much longer period.
A week or so before the date on which it is expected that she will whelp, the heat of the sun should be avoided, and the dog should be kept in a cool, airy, and quiet eating event is to take place. The reason for this is that dogs must get used to a kennel before they will make themselves at home in it, and this feeding is peculiarly perceptible in the case of a bitch who has recently welcomed; for in such manner does she seek to gratify her appetite that she will often carry the litter (the latter) back to her old quarters rather than let them remain in a kennel to which she is unaccustomed. Having got her reconciled to her change of abode, the scale of which is very important, but warmth and absence of draught are even more essential than isolation in most cases, and supposing the time of her whelping to be near at hand, it is desirable that the bitch should be provided with a diet of a nourishing nature, consisting of milk mixed with bread or other food easily receiving. This need not consist entirely of meat or other heating foods, which can only tend to increase her discomfort in parturition, but may be made of scraps well boiled or stewed, with the addition of bread, meal or rice; these being given alternately in such form as continuous within the scapera when the latter are chopped up, a meal which is both wholesome and nutritious. A few days before the puppies make their appearance a considerable change should be made in the diet, and instead of milk alone, milk with bread and a considerable enlargement of the stomach takes place. Her behavior, too, clearly indicates that she is uneasy and in pain, and in many instances the symptoms are those of the nervous condition known as "injus." In the latter case a mild purgative of either haw's galls or sweet oil must be administered; first named remedy is sometimes too powerful an aperient for use in such a con-
dition, as in the more delicate breeds especially, it is apt to cause severe straining,
which might prove fatal. The second remedy is far less likely to produce this result; an experimental dose of either hinede or sweet oil might be administered, which,
if it succeeds in acting on the bowels, will have satisfactorily accomplished the owner's object; and as the lubricating power of all three oils is essentially the same, no harm can result from their use.
It is a good plan to treat the brood bitch throughout for worms before being put to the dog; and stud dogs should be periodically treated for these pests.
BREEDING AND RAISING OF PUPPIES.
Bitches come in season on an average of twice a year, about every five to seven months, and the question is often asked whether it is advisable to breed a bitch who has been in season for several months, or even a year, before she has reached the breed and state of maturity. As a general thing, it is not well for a young bitch, which can not be fully developed at the age of ten months, to undergo the strain on vitality, which maternity causes. Some bitches mature quickly, but the majority take from two to three years after eighteen months old, and in any case it is wise to allow the first period to pass.
Another question asked is, whether a bitch should be bred at every period, or rather, whether it is wise to do so. This depends a good deal upon the vigor of the dog, and upon his condition when he is ready to be used as a sire. When puppies for the benefit of the owner's pocket, it is well to allow the bitch to be served every other period. When a bitch is bred twice a year and has a litter of puppies, she will be more than ordinarily vigorous. Later litters will show a corresponding weakness.
A bitch first shows signs of coming in season by bleeding. Now, if you are watching for her and take note of the day the bleeding begins, then one method of determining when she is ready to be used as a sire is to wait until the tenth and from the tenth to twelfth day she is ready for the dog. This rule does not always work, however, for I've had bitches that were ready and willing to be served on the eighth day, while others have been ready on the fifteenth day. Quite a good plan is to take her out for a walk on chain when you think she is about ripe, and let her meet the first dog she sees, or if you have a dog on your place, allow her near this dog for a minute, and if she would not go away from him, then she is ready. The next step is to bring her back to her home with her to the dog you have selected. If you try this plan, he careful or else she might fool you and get served by this dog she had met. Dogs are quick workers and they will serve any bitch within 24 hours of their coming into season. After 64 days, as a rule, but they sometimes keep a few days sooner or later, and you need not be alarmed unless they go up from five days to a week, when very likely trouble is in store and assistance to be given, or better yet, call in a good veterinarian. We have had many cases where we have had dogs that have been bred over and over again and have raised the pups by extra attention given for a few days as to often putting the pups to the teats to nurse if they did not get there themselves. We must remember that this is exactly. Much depends upon her health and strength, and even mental idiocy may affect her.
The best time for the visit is early spring, as the puppies have then all the long summer before them to romp and get strong. The bitch should be well regulated, and must be insisted on. Whilst at this period exercise is essential, exhaustive work would be detrimental. The amount of exercise should depend on the individual, a grassy hasty field being preferred whilst one while the reverse would seem too much proportion in proportion to her physical strength.
For a couple weeks before bitch is due in whelp, she must have a daily walk up to within a day or so of the time due, but this must be gentle as she is very heavy.
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To have a good litter of puppies, a bitch must not only possess blood free from all taint of disease but she must be strong and in good condition about the time of estrus, or heat.
If you have in any way neglected her, or if, through circumstances over which you have had no control, she has fallen off a bit, begin to get her in form three months before the time of her coming into season.
The best thing given to a bitch is a medicine to open her bowels I found in Field and Fancy, but who written by I do not know.
"Some there are who deem it wrong to give a mild earthatic immediately before the time of whelping. A violent purges is certainly to be deprecated, but it is the firm opinion of the author that this matter is not so dangerous as is generally supposed. The medicine is given with great care. At any rate, the course is invariably fol-
lowed by the most successful accouchements among women, and it must be obvious to the merest novice that when the system is greatly upset, or about to undergo a severe ordeal, the body is in a state of great weakness and needs rest and nourishment."
A moderate dose of castor oil, say a dessertspoonful for a 20-lb.
dog, or even some sweet olive oil, will do all that is required without inducing excessive straining. Such has been my custom for a good many years, and experience has confirmed its value.
My plan is to watch the pangs of bitch just before she whelps, and if she is constipated, to then give her a mild dose of castor and olive oil.
I believe when a bitch is just ready, that one service is sufficient, and rarely ever allow my own to be served but once, but to make assurance doubly sure, a second service may be given at the end of two weeks after the first. If you are sending her away to some kennel to be bred, ship her not later than the eighth day.
It would be as well if you could go with your favorite instead of sending her. But if not, all good breeders are not only gentlemen, but lovers of dogs and will take the greatest care of the bitch.
The length of time of a bitch being in season is from fifteen to twenty days as a rule. At first there is no sign that she is in season until she is bitted in season late in season the service given prolongs the season or period in which she would willingly accept the dog. A very fat bitch should never be bred as in so doing you are liable to lose not only the pupa, but the bitch herself. After the mating, the bitch should be kept warm (warmth from fire or water having been given her directly before), nor any food for six hours after.
Now, for the next two months the bitch must require every attention. For safety's sake she should be kept away from her old canine friends for about a week after mating. She should also be kept away from other dogs until she has finished whelping. While she is carrying her puppies she must have plenty of exercise and fresh air. But it must not be of too boisterous a character, and I would not permit a bitch in whelp to play with a dog of her own size or a larger dog, too much. A collision between them might result in injury to either party.
If your bitch is a house pet and has been accustomed to jumping upon chairs, the safest plan to guard against accidents is to tip the chairs up against the wall for a week or two before she is due to whelp-if you are yet keeping her in your home. When she does come out and gives birth make the same room, so that she may miss striking against chair and table. It would clearly mean the death of her and the pups.
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a woman holding a baby in her arms.
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For a few days after being bred, quietude and exercise on chain is advisable for safety, and should then follow exercise twice daily, in proportion to consti-
tution, temperament and condition, and as she nurses the time of whelping, the
chain may be again necessary, as a restraint.
Puppies should be fed at least three times a day, but not be different from usual until
five or six weeks gone, and showing heavy with pups, when she will of course
need more to eat. Feed her now more liberally with a fair proportion of beef
and milk. For the first two weeks, feed her every hour, and from the third week
she approaches the time of whelping. Bread and milk and especially soaps will be very good for the other meals; soft foods and of an opening nature being desirable. A large beef or veal bone to gnaw on is good. Plenty of milk is also very beneficial. The puppies should be fed by hand, and they should be fed by their mother three times a day during the last two weeks. On the feeding of the bitch during this time will depend the size and healthfulness of the coming litter, and
when the pups are born, a warm pan of milk will be relished by the dam; in
addition to which, a warm bath should be continued for a few days,
when a return to ordinary diet will be safe.
Many times a female, after giving birth to her young, refuses to eat and
lose weight. This is due to the draw of menstruation during the water and little retention on her gums usually resulting from the heat of summer. When this condition comes a good flow of milk.
It is usually after a lapse of thirty-three days that the pups come, and some-
days later, if no suitable secluded place should be provided for her it is important that a record should be kept of date she was bred. Have her stall or kennel prepared a week before she is due. In winter this must be warm; but in summer it need not be so hot as in winter.
I find the best plan to be, securely tack down an old carpet or blanket on the floor which enables the puppies to get a foothold when first born, and thus crawl to their mother. The bitch will scratch and dig for several days before whelping takes place, and this carpet can be removed at that time.
This carpet should be exchanged for a clean one, the next day after she whelps.
A little P.D. Q. powder sprinkled around in her box should be done daily. A
warm carpet in box is not advisable, as a puppy is liable to get under it and get enmeshed.
Not all bitches are good mothers, some being too nervous, and through this
nervousness they neglect their young or abandon them of their children, or that you might take one away, they get excited, and lay on any spot you choose.
A very safe plan I've found, and I always so fit up the stall or box, is to
furnish a shelf a few inches from the floor to the sides and back of box, extending out far enough to allow room for puppies to get a hold on it. By placing a place to sit with her, the pups are protected from being laid on by this shelf.
It is generally best not to disturb the bitch at the time of whelping in case fever or excitement, or in fact, if anything indicating trouble be detected,
it may become necessary to confine her in a stall or box. This should be done
away and kept warm until normal conditions return. Veterinarian skill may be necessary in some conditions, but as a warm place for the pups is all that is required in most cases, it is better to keep them in their own box than to
teats with the hand if the fever is likely to have rendered it injurious to the
pups and the fever may be quickly remedied, and a non-injurious flow made in
time for the pups to rejoin their mother.
The very best advice I can give the breeder is do not interfere; the few cases
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where it will be necessary to do it will only add force to this rule. When help is called for, find a veterinary surgeon who understands treatment of dogs, or one who makes dogs a specialty. Many veterinarians are all right as to horses and cows, but woefully ignorant as to dogs. If manual assistance has to be given, the best plan is to have a compound syrup of hypophosphate of soda, two hours apart; then give her Fallow's Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate, two hours apart; the dose would be half teaspoonful for a bitch of 15 to 25 lbs., and three-quarters teaspoonful for a bitch of 25 to 30 lbs., while for very large bitches such as a St. Bernard, a teaspoonful and a half would be the dose. Get one ounce of the Fallow's Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate and have your drugist add to it one ounce of the same syrup of hypophosphate of soda. This syrup is so potent that even though it is taken internally, it will cause great pain and distress, and thus act as an anesthetic. It is also so powerful that it can be used externally on the skin, and thus relieve the pain by being applied directly over the spot where the object is being to create more labor pains if bitch needs the same. In several cases of bitches that required the Fallow's Syrup of Hypophosphate I also gave an injection of 1/2 ounce of glycerine put into hot water and injected four times, at intervals of some not hot.
The cases of greatest danger are where a bitch has been allowed to stray during uterine, and was bred to a dog of much larger size than herself. They become very weak, suffer greatly, and die in the act of giving birth. In healthy parturition even considerable time is often occupied, the rest between, being of great service in supporting her against the prostration which she experiences after delivery. The mother does not eat anything except milk, and it is then foolish to try and force food upon her. In all cases where difficulty from wrong presentation or the disproportionate sized of the pups occur, both from motives of prudence and humanity the veterinary surgeon should be consulted before any attempt is made to deliver them without causing much unnecessary suffering, and probably the lives of mother and pups.
Sometimes there are one or two very late. You may go away, assuring yourself that they will come in another day or two. But when you return in the morning to find seven all sucking away like as many leeches, and the mother looking so proud and pleased she wouldn't exchange places with a princess royal.
Should the dam's supply of milk prove to be inadequate, it will be necessary either to feed her with artificial milk or to feed her with milk from another animal. The former is always a risky alternative as it not every bitch thin will take kindly to the whelps of another animal. The latter is safer but less satisfactory as it is not possible to accustom her to the surroundings if she is unkindly that she will do them justice. Then too, if she has not sheded up very nearly the same time as the other, there is likely to trouble over her milk supply. Consequently it is safest and best, if possible, to feed her with milk from another animal by hand if their mother has not enough milk to provide them with nourishment.
Fortunately, however, for the dog owner, Spratt's Patent step in here to assist him in making his own milk in the Orphan Puppy Food prepared by this Company, a most excellent substitute for natural milk. It is a mixture containing something procurable that can compare with it. In the case of many substitutes for the natural nourishing-fluid of pup, it will be found that the stomachs of the young ones are liable to be upset by some, while in other instances the puppies do not
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thrive, but in fact dwindle away. When Spratt's Pappy Food is used in a kennel there is no prospect of either of these evils, if the food is prepared in the proper manner and ordinary attention is paid to matters of detail. In the first place infant puppies should be fed frequently, every care being at the same time taken that even the very best of cooked food is apt to turn sour and become unwholesome if allowed to stand too long, or if the vessels it is kept in are not perfectly clean. The stomachs of young puppies are so easily upset that too much care cannot be spared. The danger of giving them any kind of unwholesome food is no doubt responsible for many untimely deaths among young stock.
Provided that all goes well with the welpers, they will begin to crawl about soon after their eyes open, which will be at the age of nine days.
With regard to exercise, it is advisable to leave them out occasionally to gain an hour's daily exercise; but this should never be of a violent character, likely to cause cane milk.
When puppies are six to seven weeks of age the weaning should commence, and it is a good plan to commence this by removal of the bitch for few hours at first, and afterwards by keeping her apart the whole day, only permitting her to come into the house with her puppies at night. The puppies should be milked twice a day, and the milk mixed with bread and water, and then boiled, ground and bruised and crumbled and seaked in it, while still slightly warm. I prefer condensed milk to either, which is sure to be uniform and not as conducive to worms as cow's milk. It is also more economical than fresh milk. In case of any difficulty when the puppies have taken to this diet a little meal may be used instead of bread: oatmeal, wheat middlings and cornmeal, mixed, is good; and in case of looseness of the bowels a little rice should be substituted. At this period it is also well to give them a teaspoonful of a solution of 1 part of salt to 3 parts of water, phosphorus necessary for bone forming. If fish is given be careful and sure that all bones are first removed. Pups fed rarely get rickets, or the giving way of the bones round the joints. This is due to the fact that they do not get sufficient weight of the body. This should never occur in any well-regulated kennel where the pups are properly nourished, but if it does, two-thirds of lime water with the milk, a teaspoonful of cod liver oil twice daily, or more if the breed is a large one, will remedy it. After a while soaps and a little vegetable mixture may be substituted.
I give puppies when weaning them boiled milk in which some bread has been well mixed and soaked, gravy with bread mixed in it—chicken gravy they will eat without hesitation—and sometimes a little meat broth. I use white bread and brown bread, just a little cooked, and cat up fine, beef or mutton. Remember, however, that after a pup once gets a taste of meat that it is very liable to want meat and refuse other foods.
In case of the mother dying a few days after birth of her puppies, always use condensed milk thinned with warm water and add lime water at the rate of a teaspoonful for each puppy. Lime water is one of the best worm destroyers for young stock.
Should a mother dog lose her milk or not have enough at any time after a puppy has its eyes open, make a grist of corn starch, putting a little sugar in it; this can be added to the milk when it is put on the puppies' plates; sprinkle it in and allow them to lick off lips, and you will find them to soon learn to like it and thrive on it. Or, feed them with Spratt's Orphan Pappy Food, as mentioned previously.
![]() A page from a book about breeding and raising puppies.
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When I have a litter of puppies that are weak in bone, their legs are not strong enough to sustain the body, and they are three times a day until pups are weaned, some precipitated phosphate of lime which creates bone. Dose for toy dogs, a peg for instance, would be an even teaspoonful. For dogs the size of a pointer, one and a half teaspoonful, and for large breeds like a St. Bernard or a Great Dane, two and a half teaspoonfuls. The medicine is very palatable and readily drink it down, as it is of a pleasant taste. Better, however, do the mix- ing where they do not see you, for if they got the idea that it was medicine they might refuse to take it. It will run and hide at the sight of a spoon, so great before their aversion to taking medicine.
Other troubles sometimes arise at this time, which are often caused by worms, but still more frequently result from unwholesome food or foods of inordinate nature. These may cause vomiting, diarrhea, and other symptoms of indigestion and ach, until indigestion sets in and then the food, instead of supplying nutrition, becomes an irritant; pains arise, swelling of the organs occur, and unless quickly relieved the puppy quickly succumbs. These symptoms are usually attributed to worms, but many times they are due to some trouble in digestion. Another symptom is a slight chill, sending the blood from the surface to the internal organs, producing congestion therein, and it is sometimes that serious disorders, such as those mentioned above, occur. This is not uncommonly given, without knowledge of their effects, or due preparation on part of the patient. All these troubles may be classified as gastro-enteritis, and the same treatment applied. There should be an immediate cleansing out of the bowels with warm water and salt solution; then give a dose of 10 grains of quinine hydrochloride, either perargyric or laudanum, the former preferred, because of the camphor in it.
The opiate should be given every hour, until the pain is relieved, and then nourishment in the form of warm milk should follow, with the application of sterile bandages over the affected parts.
Raw milk should never be given to any puppies, always boil or scald it. Under the heading of "Worms," you can now find proper treatment for puppies.
The following article: "Parasites" and a valuable one indeed--coming from the large number of dams and puppies that have been annually lost, that have been found to come across each article as Mr. A. J. Westell's noted English dog "Vol." on the subject of "Parasites" in dogs. The intelligent Kennel man should be allowed an opportunity to read them. From such hints the Intelligent Kennel man may prepare himself to meet emergencies which can only be met by knowledge gained from experience. The information is entirely available. The following will meet such cases. "It occasionally happens in cases of head presentation that the hind legs are bent forward on the body, which renders the delivery difficult, and without the passage is large and the pains are severe. In such cases it is advisable to apply a little oil to the skin just be- ned by grasping the puppy across the hips with a small pair of thin forceps or ritoon forces, and by gently pulling at the puppy during each turn.
It frequently occurs that though a puppy may lie in a normal position the mother does not deliver him properly because his head is too large. The nose may be just inside the vagina, and there become fixed in spite of the bitch straining for hours. I have seen hundreds of such cases. It is a mistake to leave
BREEDING AND RAISING OF PUPPIES. 155
these cases too long, thinking they will come all right, as it is wasting time and the mother's strength; and if there are other puppies to come she probably will not have strength enough to exert on herself, or help any one who may try to assist her.
As these instances the head is so firmly fixed in the mouth of the womb that it is impossible to take hold of it with forceps, however small or thin the blades may be, but the hook of the crochet may generally be passed into the mouth of the puppy and drawn through the passage by main force. If care be taken it is astonishing what amount of force may be used in promoting delivery without at all injuring the bitch, but if it be not to pull on the puppy except during the labor it will be very difficult.
"It is the custom of some veterinary surgeons to give the bitch during labor a hot bath if the parts are not considered sufficiently relaxed or of the pains are dragging. This is a very dangerous practice, as it causes the uterus to become dilated, providing that parts are in a normal state—that is, bar a stricture in the vagina or something of that kind—and if there is any abnormal condition a warm bath, in my opinion, does more harm than good, by often checking the pains."
The following case was observed by me (in which I am not responsible where I much prefer to use the Fellow's Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate)—I have applied with advantage to the abdomen a ice bag; but what I find the best of all when used in this way is a hot water bottle filled with hot water. The reason for this is that if the parts have not worked satisfac-
tory, is to put the bitch in some vehicle and give her a drink of something which will induce the labour pains this will do so in most cases.
"The worst cases are those which when the bitch is due to part the parts become so contracted that no instrument can be introduced. Examination per rectum shows no puppy can be felt and no amount of excitement of the parts by passing a cold instrument into the passage or injection of ergot will cause contraction of the womb if the patient is in right ilio-pubic dystocia. During such cases every effort must be made to get and excite contraction of the womb. If means taken do not succeed, then there is nothing to be done except the Cesarean operation, as it is not safe to attempt delivery with forceps or crochet when the puppy has been born alive.
Then follows a description of the Cesarean operation, which, of course, no one but an experienced veterinary surgeon should be allowed to perform; so it is not necessary to give details.
The usual inversion of the womb or uterus into the vagina sometimes, but very rarely, occurs during parturition, due to very severe straining, or as the result of too much force being used to remove a puppy with forceps or by other means. In such cases it is advisable to cut away a portion of skin overlying the uterus with prolapse of the vagina, or a polypus. The latter may be removed as a solid pen-shaped body with a narrow neck, whilst a prolapsed vagina in generally a large solid oval body which almost fills the vaginal canal if it does not protrude beyond its opening. The uterine wall is usually thickened and forms a passage just behind the meatus or opening of the bladder. The uterus is soft,
redish, and rough and tubular in shape, besides showing dark-colored patches within its walls.
"After the womb has been cleaned by being sponged with a weak, tepid solution of Condy's Fluid or permanganate of potash, it should, if possible, be returned by gentle pressure on the fundus of the uterus with a piece of whalebone with the pelves covered with gauze; the returning in assisting if the hind legs are nimble
| These cases too long, thinking they will come all right, as it is wasting time and |
| the mother's strength; and if there are other puppies to come she probably will not have strength enough to exert on herself, |
| or help any one who may try to assist her. |
| As these instances the head is so firmly fixed in the mouth of the womb that it is impossible to take hold of it with forceps, |
| however small or thin the blades may be, but the hook of the crochet may generally be passed into |
| the mouth of the puppy and drawn through the passage by main force. If care be taken it is astonishing what amount of force may be used in promoting delivery without at all injuring |
| the bitch, but if it be not to pull on the puppy except during |
| the labor it will be very difficult. |
| "It is the custom of some veterinary surgeons to give |
| the bitch during labor a hot bath if |
| the parts are not considered sufficiently relaxed or of |
| the pains are dragging. This is a very dangerous practice, |
| as it causes the uterus to become dilated, |
| providing that parts are in a normal state—that is, |
| bar a stricture in |
| the vagina or something of that kind—and if there is any abnormal condition," |
| a warm bath, in my opinion, does more harm than good, |
| by often checking |
| the pains." |
| The following case was observed by me (in which I am not responsible where I much prefer to use |
| the Fellow's Compound Syrup of Hypophosphate)—I have applied with advantage to |
| the abdomen a ice bag; but what I find |
| the best of all when used in this way is a hot water bottle filled with hot water. |
| The reason for this is that if |
| the parts have not worked satisfac- |
| tory, |
| is to put |
| the bitch in some vehicle and give her a drink of something which will induce |
| the labour pains this will do so in most cases. |
| "The worst cases are those which when | 166
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
in part by the bitch being held upside down. Care must be taken not to use undue force or the uterus may be ruptured. After the return it is a good plan to inject a quantity of cold water into the vagina to act as an astrigent.
When the protruding uterine sacs show signs of having been injured or is much congested, decoction of tannic acid in, amputation is advisable. This is best done by drawing the part gently out and applying a strong ligature as high up as possible and cutting off the free portion."
In the June number of the Kansai Gazette (Eng.) Mr. Sewell takes up the care of the mother and puppies, and, judging from the serious lesions which occur in almost every kennel from time to time, he has keenly studied the subject and used his experience in treating both the mother and the very young puppies. He says that when a bitch is suffering from any disease she should be kept in a warm room with plenty of fresh air, and that she should have her food given to her in small quantities at frequent intervals. She should also be given warm milk, either in a bottle or in a cup, and she should be allowed to eat all her puppies if she appears very exhausted. A few hours later in ordinary cases, when all is going well, some hot oatmeal gruel, which is the best food for the next two or three days, may be given. When the bitch seems distressed to eat anything else, she should be given a little boiled rice or bread mixed with milk. After the third day, more solid food may be given, as crumbed biscuit or boiled rice, with sheep's head broth and milk. If the bitch is not feeling well, milk may be given to drink instead of water. At this time it is advisable when there is a large litter, more nourishment is required, and the food must be increased in degree so that the bitch is kept in fairly good condition, though if it is not made fat, or the secretion of milk may be checked and the puppies suffer.
Some bitches are so jealous in their care of the puppies, more especially at first, that their health suffers in consequence. In such cases the dam must be watched carefully during the first few days after birth. If there are any very severe cases of illness caused by the mother not leaving her puppies, and in two instances death was the result of the bladder becoming over-distended and not being emptied. The condition of the bowels also sometimes requires attention, especially when there are many puppies. In these cases it is advisable that she has eaten the fetal membranes, the bowels are often relaxed in the course of a day or two, and so long as it is not severe, no notice may be taken of it, but when it becomes worse it will become necessary to empty them by means of a catheter and to take it off, and if after this has worked off, very loose motions continue and are frequently passed, some carbonate of bismuth, from five to fifteen grains shaken dry on the tongue, may be given three or four times a day. In these cases the milk should be replaced with arrowroot instead of oatmeal as long as the bowels continue troublesome.
After pupping, a bitch naturally has a great deal of discharge from the womb, which continues, as a rule, for about a fortnight, sometimes a good deal longer. I find it a good plan when the last puppy is born to syringe the uterus out with a
**BREEDING AND RARING OF PUPPIES**
Tepid solution of permanganate of potash. When the discharge is very copious and offensive, it is a good plan to repeat the syringing every day for the first week; and the coat surrounding the passage, when the bitch does not keep herself clean, should be washed occasionally with warm water and carbolic soap and afterwards carefully dried.
When the discharge from the passage continues after three weeks, antiseptic injections are necessary, as a teaspoonful of powdered burnt alum dissolved in a pint of water is given by mouth.
Occasionally, after the usual discharge has ceased, a bitch will have a blood-
like discharge, the same as is seen in litters when in estrum, and this may con-
tinue for weeks. It is due to a relaxed condition of the parts, and when very
serious, it is advisable to give a few doses of carbolic soap and water. The
should be given and from two to five drops of witch hazel base, administered three
times a day in a little water. When this does not stop the discharge, ergotine,
from 0.5 to 1 grain, should be given at night.
The mammary or milk glands often require attention, more especially if all, or nearly all, the puppies die. Then the milk, which often accumulates in quantities, becomes, as it were, canedated, the glands are swollen, inflamed and very tender
and painful to touch. In such cases it is advisable to give a few doses of
large lincter, in one or more glasses, the puppies seeming to take a dislike to the
milk in these parts; or perhaps the parts are tender and the bitch refuses to let
them suckle. In such cases it is advisable to give a few doses of carbolic soap
served by a dog, of whom have a large accumulation of milk about nine weeks after
being on heat, and unless the parts are carefully watched to see the glands do not become swollen and hard, a good deal of trouble may follow, and subsequently
greatly increase the cost of rearing.
When the glands become swollen and inflamed, hot water fomentations should be applied three or four times a day, and after each fomentation the glands, espe-
cially the hard lumps, should be rubbed with warm camphorated oil until they
become soft. This treatment should be continued for three or four days. When the
bitch is rearing puppies, it is necessary to wash the camphorated oil off with warm water and soap before she is allowed to return to the litter ones.
In some cases where the mother is in poor condition under ordinary
conditions may only continue for a day or two, but sometimes it is permanent,
and though the mother may be anxious to nurse the puppies, she is unable to do so.
In such cases treatment is of little use; a diet of oatmeal gruel and boiled
dough is recommended. In cases where there is no improvement within this half
a year I have found a stimulating diet of raw lean meat of some use.
Bitches of a nervous disposition, especially those of the smaller breeds of dogs, are liable to develop an acute form of mastitis. The milk becomes
airy put down to weakness, but I do not think this is the cause for I have seen
these attacks occur when the mother has been in good condition and when
only rearing two or three puppies.
The symptoms are similar to that particular eumetamia, and though the symptoms are very distressing, it is very seldom that death occurs as a result. The early signs are restlessness and excitement, the bitch keeps leaving her puppies and walks aimlessly around her cage. At first sight she looks like an animal who has been con-
vulsed, looking very much like an animal which has been poisoned with strychnine.
The legs are stretched out and rigid; the tail is often curled tightly over the back and head is drawn back. The mouth is generally kept wide open, the dog panting violently; but there is no loss of consciousness.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
With respect to treatment, it is seldom medicine can be given by the mouth in these cases, but when it is possible, a large dose of bromide of potassium—say one scruple for a little dog, the size of a fox terrier, in a tablespoonful of water, should be given. Great care must be taken to give this liquid by the back of the tongue, and not by the side of the mouth. When it is impossible to give the medi-
cine by the mouth, an enema, containing hydrated chloral should be used. The
dose for a dog the size of a fox terrier, in an urgent case like this, should be half
a dram. It has been observed in about four instances of this disease that the
patient has been found dead in his bed with his head on the pillow, and his
tegmd. Smaller dogs—say panics and Yorkshire terriers—may have a scrawl of chlo-
ral in their stomachs at the time of attack. When the attack has passed off,
to prevent recurrence it is advisable to give a course of bromide—say from three
to five grains for dogs the size of toy spaniels and fox terriers in a little water
three or four times a day, and feed on a light diet, as bread and milk, or the latter
alone.
If the convulsions do return the puppies ought to be weaned and means taken
to disperse the milk. Rotten sometimes occurs in doing this even when the
puppies have been gradually weaned, and this is particularly so when they are
fed on milk which has not had its curative effect. Aperient medicine should always be
given, castor oil being the best. A full dose should be administered over every four days. The glands should be rubbed twice a day with camphorated spirits.
The stomach should also be treated with castor oil. If this does not succeed,
therefore when the milk does not seem to be dispersing as quickly as it should,
other external remedies may be tried, as rubbing the glands with whisky or
brandy, or even one-eighth of a drachm of opium. I have often had good success by dabbing the
glands with a solution of iodine, followed by a bath in cold water.
Recipe.—Methylated spirit (wood alcohol) one ounce; cold water eight ounces.
The milk, unless it is secreted in very large quantities, and is causing pain,
or is too thick, is not likely to cause any trouble. It is advisable to use some
soda. Sometimes these cases are extremely obstinate and will last five or six
weeks, or even longer. In such instances, loidie or soda is useful in doses from
half to two grains, according to the size of the bitch, given in a little water, and
mixed with a little sugar. This is an excellent thing at first and of a stimulating
character, as bread and milk dry biscuit, milk pudding, etc.
One never knows when some untoward circumstance will arise in parturition.
Puppies may die; they may be too large, or something else happens that non-
pluses even the best of mothers.
A bitch should be made to come out to empty herself, if only for a few me-
nutes on the first day, or if she whelps at night, then on the next day, as many
times as necessary until she has done so. If she does not do so after several days,
that some harm may befall her children, it will often "hold in" and damage result
from no relief to the kidneys or stomach.
The following is copied from the America's Field, and is valuable on this subject:
"Bitches at such times often become a little distressed, when their labor is at hand,
and will crawl or creep into any hole or corner in order to seek relief; and will
often remain there for hours without coming out again."
The bench should be protected on all sides, so that the puppies are not subiect
to the danger of being thrown "overboard," and the bench should not be too large,
for fear of the puppies getting pushed away from their dam and getting cold,
before they are properly dry. Dry, clean wheat straw makes the best bedding."
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a dog lying on its back with its legs raised.
BREEDING AND RAISING OF PUPPIES. 139
"The latter contingency is one that frequently happens. While the earlier puppies are yet moist they are pushed away from their dam in her efforts to give birth to succeeding puppies, cold strikes into their tender little system, they gradually become chilled, and, being unable to find food, they die. The dam's tears, and drawing from them their natural sustenance, they whine, and gradually pine away and die, to the consternation and dismay of an anxious and expectant owner.
Some breeders, in order to avort the possibility of what we have just de-
scribed, take away the puppies as they are born into a kitchen, sadder room or other place, in which there is a fire to dry them, putting them back when the bitch has given birth to the next litter.
"A bitch, shortly before she is due to whelp and afterward, should be kept upon sloppy food rather, such as porridge and milk, bread and milk, hound meal soaked in sheep's head broth, etc. While whelping she should simply be given clean water and a good supply of hay. In this way the puppies will gain nine min-
utes on the second day, the duration of which may be increased each day."
The secret of success in rearing puppies is fresh air, pure water, free and unobstructed exercise, plenty of food, and a warm bed. The puppies should be kept cool and a dry, warm bed at night. The fewer puppies are kept in kennels the better, and the more the foregoing table of hygiene can be observed the better will puppies come on."
Basically should the puppy quarters be kept sweet and clean, for a dozen
fleas will take more out of meaking puppies than a night's rest will put back. Here is where a cool cellar or other darkened building will be found almost imperative
when the mercury is trying to do a century. The brooding quarters should be
kept cool and in semi-gloom, and more than ordinary attention should be paid to cleanliness of the bedding and floors. Next best would be to keep
more air circulating and calculated to retard a puppy until doing with fleas.
MY CREED
DO NOT keep the abattoir boxes of your love and tenderness scaled up until your
friends are dead. Fill their lives with sweetness. Speak approving, cheering words
while their ears can hear them, and while their hearts can be thrilled and made
happy by them; the kind things you mean to say when they are gone, say before they go.
The flowers you mean to give them when they are dead, give before they go.
Before you bury your friend if my friends have abattoir boxes laid high, full of fragrant per-
fumes of sympathy and affection, which intend they break over my dead body, I would
rather they would bring them out in my weary and troubled hours, and open them then that
my heart might be filled with their fragrance. I would rather have a funeral without a flower,
without a funeral with an eulogy, than life without the sweetness of love and sympathy.
Let us learn to amoint our friends beforehand for their burial. Post-mortem kindness is
the most beautiful of all troubadour flowers. Flowers on the coffin cast no fragrance back-
ward over life's weary ways.
LOVE DOGS -- ALL DOGS -- never miss a chance to be kind, or do good to a dog--even the unfortunate, homeless cur you see on the street, for he has a heart just
the same as the finest bred one, and just as deserving of good treatment.
Yours for Dogs,
AL.G. EBERRART.
AN ASSORTMENT OF CURES.
Part of the following I have clipped and saved from the "Answers to Correspondents" column in the American Field. Some of them I have tried, and considering them all valuable, I think they are worth publishing.
Dog EATING Its Own Feces.--I have a fox terrier bitch puppy, eight months old. She has a disgusting habit of eating her own droppings, also those of other dogs; will pick them up and drag them into the kennel. I have tried everything that I could think of to stop the practice. She is large and healthy, but she is very nervous and easily frightened. I have tried to keep her away from six dogs and they never offer to do what she appears to delight in. She will make her deposit and then turn around and eat it right after I have got through feeding her feed twice a day. What can I do to stop that filthy habit?
Answer.--Watch her closely and cover the feces with powdered cayenne pepper.
What can I do for my twenty-month-old greyhound? About two months ago I noticed he would eat his own and other droppings, including manure; have tried pepper, and also sulphur and hair, but to no purpose. Treated him with Dent's Vermifuge, but have not noticed any worms. He eats well and has plenty of exercise, but seems to get thinner every day, and lately will lie down after a little exercise.
Answer.--Give him, before meals, three times a day, a pill containing nux vomica one-half grain, gentian four grains, sulphate of iron three grains; after meals give him a grain of pure pepsin.
Cats.--What can I do for my hound? He sneezes about all the time and discharges mucus from his nose. I have tried several remedies without success. He eats well and is bright and active.
Answer.--Take equal parts of distilled water and linctus and apply into the nostrils twice daily. (See Catabal.)
Some MOUTH--What will cure my dog's mouth? I have lost recently, six or eight teeth. They fall out during the first month and roots of saliva run from their mouths; they can not eat anything or even drink water; they lick their fore feet all the while, and finally die after great suffering! Some people call it slobber disease. It is caused by eating too much salt or chalk or chalklike powder, alum, borsage tea and honey, none of which did any good.
Answer.--A malignant form of sore mouth. Take five grains of permanganate of potash to one ounce of distilled water and wash the diseased parts three times daily. Feed milk and raw eggs. (See also CANINE DISEASES.)
Urticaria, on NERVOUS RASH.--My pointer dog, nine months old, scratches and bites at his ears constantly. His eyes are red and redness spreads over his face and redness in his eyes are red and much matter and watery discharge from them; he has a very offensive smell about him all the time; he smells worse and scratches more than in a warm room; very small breakouts come out between his forelegs.
Urticaria
AN ASSORTMENT OF CURSES.
161
which heal up and disappear in a few days; his appetite is good. I feed him corn bread and milk, table scraps and a little cooked meat. He grows fast and is fat enough. I keep him tied except for an hour or so each day. Please name disease and prescribe.
**Anxer:**-Cayenne, nettle rash; stop feeding corn and substitute cooked turnips, beets and cabbage; take oil of tar four ounces, alcohol four ounces, cottonseed oil eight ounces, mix and apply all over the body for six consecutive days, giving a bath on the seventh day; repeat treatment if necessary. For four consecutive mornings give one ounce of castor oil and twenty drops of cascarva segadora.
**Sour:** Fertz...What can I do for my beagle bitch, two and a half years old, who eats well and seems well, but her feet get sore, sometimes between the toes and sometimes under the toes?
**Anxer:** Make a strong decoction of white oak bark, and bathe the feet with it twice daily.
**Sour:** Ex Ear...My dog has a large sore on the outside of his ear, caused by constant rubbing. What would you prescribe? I have used carabolic salve, but this does not seem to want to scratch all the more. I have tried his hind legs together but to blite off the cord, and when I put anything over his head he works it off.
**Anxer:** Cleanse the sore with warm water and soap, and apply the tincture of iodine once, or use Stryn's Locustum, a great healer.
To Day: My Dog...My bitch's puppies died at birth. What shall I do? Bitch has bag full of milk.
**Anxer:** Rub the bag with camphorated oil, especially if the teats are hard-ened. Another remedy is alcohol, four ounces to a quart of water. Do not draw off the milk now, as that encourages the secretion. (See also Caxen Baxet.)
**Sour:** On Hips And Head...Setter has sores on hips and heads; has been troubled with them since time immemorial.
**Anxer:** Apply boric acid ointment. (See also Sour.)
**Goutre:** I have on my hands what I suppose is a case of goutre; the dog is five months old, but the protuberance on the throat is developing very rapidly.
What can I do to remedy it so as quickly as possible without injury?
**Anxer:** Apply boric acid ointment, one dram to each paw three times a day for two weeks. (See Goutre.)
**Sour:** Fertz...My English setter dog, three years old, feet get sore when I work him; they get feverish and matter is discharged from between the toes. What shall I do?
**Anxer:** Paint with iodine and give internally, if a small dog, one grain, the ounce of water. (See Sour) Wet.
**Anxer:** Pyr Stycyreny Poisoning...What would be the most effective antidote one could carry while on a hunt in case of strychnine poisoning of the dogs?
**Anxer:** Give an emetic if possible, then give from twenty to thirty grains of chiral hydrate administered by the rectum; after giving the injection, bring pressure on the anus to prevent its expulsion. (See Poisonous.)
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying down.
162
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS—Please prescribe for my pointer bitch, six years of age, which has every symptom of inflammation of the lungs. I gave her a large dose of oil, which she threw up without any action. After taking her (continued) two doses of oil, she was very much worse, and had a temperature that was hard and showed evidences of fever. I then gave her two grains of camomile and am now giving her one drop of aconite every hour to reduce the temperature. She breathes very hard and staggers and runs adiween in the mews. I have given her a large dose of oil, but have not been able to get a good dose of her blood with a few scraps of beef chopped into it.
Answer—Give her two grains of quinine every three or four hours and use some small doses of stimulants, such as a teaspoonful of brandy, four or five times a day, and give her one cupful of chopped raw beef and gelatin, beef broth, etc., (see Lunus, Inflammation 07).
CHRONIC CONSTITUTION—English setter, age seven and one-half years, weight fifty-two pounds, has been constipated for a long time; it is almost impossible for me to make a stool; in doing so he stumbles all over the street without accident; please give him a teaspoonful of brandy every half hour; I have been alleviating him occasionally by doses of physic. I saw slight traces of blood in his urine on November 12. He is a ravenous eater and hunts well all day. Please prescribe.
Aconite—Give him one grain every hour until the stool comes; give occasional drops of castor oil, and three times a day give fifteen grains each of the hypophysis of soda and one-fourth grain of nux vomica. (See Constitution.)
Cerebra—Diagnose and prescribe for an English setter, weight fifty pounds, aged three years, who had chorea. It is chronic and confined to one side of his head; he has a constant tremor on that side; he has a constant drooping eye on that side and noticeable rise and fall on the affected side of the skull, but nowhere else in his body. I have tried mild remedies, and at times have reduced the disease, but on stopping the medicine the trouble would commence. Kindly prescribe something that will keep the disease under control.
Answer—Give internally the following: Fluid extract of nux vomica thirty drops, fluid extract ergot two and one-half drams, lodicule of potash one dram, water to make one pint; give an enema twice a day for four days, then three times a day for two weeks. (See Aconite.)
ANTIDOTE FOR SYRINGEUM—I noticed in a recent issue the query. What is best to carry to antidote strychnine poison, when shooting. I have saved many dogs in the field and in different sections where I have lived by mother tincture belladonna.
Get the green root or mother tincture at any homeopathic pharmacy, and if the dog has had but one spasm, ten to fifteen drops poured down its throat will poison it for twenty-four hours or more. When the dog has had two or three spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for eight hours; when it has had four spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for six hours; when it has had five spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for four hours; when it has had six spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for two hours; when it has had seven spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for one hour; when it has had eight spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for half an hour; when it has had nine spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for twenty minutes; when it has had ten spasms, ten to fifteen drops will poison it for ten minutes. The syrup can be used per cistum—one-twenty to thirty drops; and seldom does one give us but two doses, either by mouth or rectum.
I believe that when given up by veterinary surgeons, and I believe any dog can be saved so long as there is circulation enough to take up the antidote. (See also Poisoning.)
Barking Dog: To Collar and Chain.—The sooner a young dog is taught to go in a collar and beat the better. It is best to begin when the puppy is three or four months old, first by letting it wear a collar for a week or two, then tie a
AN ASSORTMENT OF CURES. 163
piece of thick string to the collar, and let it go about with this for a few days. At the end of this period substitute the string for a chain, catching hold of the chain with both hand every one and then, and giving it a dainty bit with the other. In this way it will get quite accustomed to what the dog, no doubt, thinks a strange noise, and will not be so easily alarmed by the sound of the dog along and expect to become accustomed to the feel of the collar by giving it a sure and steady stroke. That is the way to make it hate a collar.
**CHERRY EAR.** A dog, four years old, whose ears are affected with some sort of skin disease. The backs of his ears seem dry and scurfy, the hair falls out with each hair, and he frequently scratching them. There is no swelling, no soreness, no bleeding; the skin seems healthy. Apply the following: Please prescribe.
**CINNAMON.** Apply rectal cinchonite once daily after washing the ear. Benzoin and tannic acid will cure this. Apply twice daily. After putting a little of it on the ear, rub and work it well with thumb and finger till the seariness matter softens and you remove it from the ear by rubbing. Continue daily treatment until cured—a matter of a week or so as a rule.
**CUTANATED VESSEL (How to Make).—Cayenne pepper is an excellent aid often recommended for dogs that are constantly scratching themselves by dog fanciers. A good plan for making it is as follows: Take six ounces of solid parsnip wine, melt it thoroughly in a saucepan, and when melted add twelve ounces of vinegar. Add two ounces of oil; if too strong add one dram of pure carabolic acid, and stir thoroughly until cold.
This is the official, or British Pharmacopoeia, formula. It involves very little trouble, and makes the most elegant and serviceable preparation. A very fair alternative is to use a mixture containing paraffin vegetable oil into petroleum jelly, say three or four drops to each ounce of jelly. This is very soft, especially in hot weather, and does not keep nearly so well as the first.
**TERMITES CONTINUALLY SCRATCHING.—Terrier is repeatedly scratching himself. He has no flea or anything about his body, is very often washed, so cannot be dirty; it is very annoying. He will roll over on his back, and then try and scratch himself anywhere and everywhere about his body. What shall I do with him?**
**Answerer.—Give the dog every week during the hot weather a bath in Standard Disinfectant, diluted with fifty parts of water.
**Muzzles.** The season for muzzles just when the dog requires a free mouth more than ever, will come around. No comfortable muzzle has yet been invented except one which can be put on at any time without disturbing the animal; but being constantly fixed by a cage arrangement, and will show its distaste by rubbing on the ground and pawing, with the result that he very soon will make raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places. The use of the animal to whom the muzzle must be given raw and sore places.
Every other care be taken in many cases these trouble results, and every owner of good dogs knows how difficult it is when once his head has been destroyed to bring up appearances again to their original excellence.
**Tuscan Pill for Dog Arsenic Snow.—Here is a good recipe for dogs when returning from a show or after any specially hard work. It makes an excellent
164
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
pill for appetite, and being a mild laxative, is just what a dog ought to have when he comes home. Take of:
Compound powder of cocolynthum. 24 grains
Sulphate of iron. 12 grains
Sulphate of quinine. 12 grains
Powdered tannin. 30 grains
Except of enough sufficient to make into a suitable mass. Divide into 16 pills (or 32 of half the size if desired). Give one of the larger size to a dog of not more than 20 lbs, every four or five hours until a distinctly apparent effect is produced. The smaller pills will answer for smaller dogs, and large dogs can take two at once. I prefer to give the medicine in the form of a paste prepared fresh as required. I prefer, however, to use Sergent's, Clayton's or Dent's Combination Pills much harder. Gelatin or sugar coated, and easier to give.
Cynoicic Cough.--Petite dog whose coat was good, healthy in every way, looks regular, has acted dull for two weeks, wanting to lie down a good bit of the time, and would not eat or drink. He was given a teaspoonful of cough after a couple miles, and unless given a rest would cough as if he would strangle to death. It is a dry cough, and I never seen him emit anything. He rehabs coughing when asleep. I treated for worms and got none, gave cough medicine with no effect. Is this good?
Answer.--It is a chronic cough and hard to cure. Get the "Cough Pill" prescription filled as given in this book, and give a pill night and morning, keep ing it regularly.
Wax.--A waxed--banded pup, eleven months old, very weak in joints below pectoral, which makes him weak as if he had tremors fore feet. He does not knockle over. I have commenced giving him Parrish's Chemical Food. Can I do better? He has no worms.
Answer.--Give him Parrish's food, and bathe the ligs twice daily with a solution of Tidman's sea salt. Feed principally on raw meat.
Cold and Dullity.--"Prescribe for my English setter. She had a litter of five puppies, then one eye got sore and a film came over it; she lost her appetite and her milk dried up in two weeks. I have been feeding the puppies on cow's milk but they are not getting well. What is the matter?" Answer.--Cold and dility. Give her a tablespoonful of the emulsion of Co.'s Laxative Mixture three times daily for two weeks; raw beef, lean beef, chopped fine, milk and eggs, gelatin or anything else she will eat; and give five grains of pepper after meals.
Use my eye lotion No. 2 twice a day.
Fats.--"My setter, three years old, is subject to fits. Will hunt fast for three or four hours, then get so weak he staggers and finally lies down; unable to get up and walk again." This spot will last an hour. Previous to these spasms he is going fast and seems strong; then his whites or makes any noise while he has a fit. Is in good condition."
Answer.--Give 2 grains of iodide of potash three times daily for two weeks, together with 1 grain of a grain of draychyme. (See also Fats.)
Becky MURRAY.--"Please prescribe for my setter dog, three years old, whose bowels are loose, and he is constantly straining and passing a bloody mucus."
AN ASSESSMENT OF CURES
168
which is becoming quite offensive; his appetite is fairly good; hair in tolerable condition; he is lively enough and hunts quite fast and keeps going. I notice he is losing flesh. Is his condition serious?*
*Answer.* Yes, it is serious. Give one ounce of castor-oil, and three times daily give him a quart of the following mixture: Fluid extract gentian root one dram, fluid extract hyoscyamus one dram, tincture of ginger one dram; water to make two ounces.
Bitch WYTH Pups' WoT ErY.--English setter bitch, weight thirty-eight pounds, who has a litter of ten puppies, four weeks old. She does not eat as she should, and her coat is dull. I have given her the only thing I can get her to eat is bread and milk. Her bowels are very bad. Puppies are in good condition. I have been giving them bread and milk also.*
*Answer.* Give her a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, she is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your bitch a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, she is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of the throat. He has a hoarseness of the voice, with a slight watery discharge from the eyes, also a saliva from the corners of the mouth. Thinking he had cold, I gave him a teaspoonful of sammetto every hour. I had her out on Monday, September 5, and she tried to make water during the day at least five hundred times. What is the matter? Please prescribe.*
*Answer.* Give your dog a teaspoonful of sammetto three times a day for at least five days. If necessary sooner, he is suffering from inflammatory disease of the urinary organs.
Some Tarryoug Cough Due to Cold.--It has a cough with a peculiar affection of
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ter dog, six years old. He has had a hard lunch in the middle joint of his right hindleg for some time; he always chews at it as if it itched, and it is making him lame; he had the same on each of his two fore-legs, but they went away at length without treatment.
Apply to the ten glands of the lobe of pottash three times a day for two weeks, followed by a Sergeant's Condition Pill twice a day for probably a month. Paint the enlargement with tincture of iodine once daily for a week.
**CONSTANT AND FREQUENT URINATION.**—An English setter bitch, who eats well, has a good coat, is full of life, and is in perfect health. She is a very lively dog, and though there is no such slow discharge of urine, and when she gets up her whole side will be wet. I notice also a matter-like secre-
tion. I have noticed these discharges the past week and cannot understand them. It is a weakness of the kidneys or a disease. What is the trouble? Please prescribe.
**ANSWER.**—"Give one dram of ammato three times a day for a couple of weeks."
**BLOODSHOT EYES.**—My English setter bitch, three years old, had distemper badly at one year. Since then her eyes and the lining of eyelids have been red, and she has been unable to see well. The eyes are red and swollen, and the eyes and lids are bloodshot, particularly so after a hard hunt or when she is a bit off; they very rarely discharge. Please prescribe.
**ANSWER.**—Drop in the eyes three times a day Enemaist's Eye Lotion No. 2.
**DANDRUFF AND HAIR COULING OUT.—Please prescribe for cocker spaniel, six months old, who has dandruff on her head and back. She has dry skin and scales con-
tinually. Have used mange cure a number of times and washed with dog soap, but these have done little good. The hair is coming out where the dandruff is
**ANSWER.**—"Take boric acid one ounce, salicylic acid one ounce, glycerine one pint; rub this well into the skin twice a day and wash every third day with Enemaist's Dog Soap; continue this treatment for thirty days. Internally give five grains of boric acid and five grains of peroxide of hydrogen three times a day. In lieu of prescription given for external treatment better use Enemaist's Skin Cure, preceded by bath with his dog soap."
**SWELLING ON LEGS ABOVE THE HOCK AND DISCHARGE.**—"My pointer, eight and one-half months old, that has distemper and with it came a large swelling right above the hock on both hind legs; it was about an inch long and an inch wide; all three of these opened with a discharge which has caused a soreness all over the neck and at the right ear; all of the hair is coming out, and there is still a little discharge. The two lumps on the hind-legs opened on November 15; the left leg was closed up again on November 20; the right leg was closed up again on November 23; both legs were open again on December 17; both legs were closed up again on December 20; both legs were open again on January 18; both legs were closed up again on January 25; both legs were open again on February 15; both legs were closed up again on February 22; both legs were open again on March 15; both legs were closed up again on March 22; both legs were open again on April 15; both legs were closed up again on April 22; both legs were open again on May 15; both legs were closed up again on May 22; both legs were open again on June 15; both legs were closed up again on June 22; both legs were open again on July 15; both legs were closed up again on July 22; both legs were open again on August 15; both legs were closed up again on August 22; both legs were open again on September 15; both legs were closed up again on September 22; both legs were open again on October 15; both legs were closed up again on October 22; both legs were open again on November 15; both legs were closed up again on November 22; both legs were open again on December 15; both legs were closed up again on December 22; both legs were open again on January 15; both legs were closed up again on January 22; both legs were open again on February 15; both legs were closed up again on February 22; both legs were open again on March 15; both legs were closed up again on March 22; both legs were open again on April 15; both legs were closed up again on April 22; both legs were open again on May 15; both legs were closed up again on May 22; both legs were open again on June 15; both legs were closed up again on June 22; both legs were open again on July 15; both legs were closed up again on July 22; both legs were open again on August 15; both legs were closed up again on August 22; both legs were open again on September 15; both legs were closed up again on September 22; both legs were open again on October 15; both legs were closed up again on October 22; both legs were open again on November 15; both legs were closed up again on November 22; both legs were open again on December 15; both legs were closed up again on December 22; both legs were open again on January 15; both legs were closed up again on January 22; both legs were open again on February 15; both legs were closed up again on February 22; both legs were open again on March 15; both legs were closed up again on March 22; both legs were open again on April 15; both legs were closed up again on April 22; both legs were open again on May 15; both legs were closed up again on May 22; both legs were open again on June 15; both legs were closed up again on June 22; both legs were open again on July 15; both legs were closed up again on July 22; both legs were open again on August 15; both legs were closed up again on August 22;
LAMENESS IN BULLY JUKE.—My pointer dog, eighteen months old, became lame in his right foreleg about seven or eight months ago, and I am unable to
AN ASSORTMENT OF CURES. 167
acertain where the lameness is. I can find nothing in the foot or any indication of soreness in the leg or shoulder; where he steps on that foot he places it out beyond a natural position, and walks with his leg projected. He is in good health; had the distemper when four months old. What is the ailment? Please proceed.
Answer.--The lameness is located in the stifle joint. Add one ounce of the tincture of arnica to a pint of witch hazel, and apply two or three times a day with gentle friction and hand rubbing, fifteen minutes at a time.
MURS or PAROTITIS.--I have a dog that has a swelling on each side of his head, which is very painful to him, and causes him to be very droopy, and carries his head stiff, and does not eat very much. What can be done for him?"
Answer.--"From the symptoms shown above your dog has parotitis or mumps, which is an affection of the parotid glands, and in this case both of the glands are affected. The swelling is caused by an inflammation of the salivary glands, and the swellings are indicated, in the form of warm water or poultices, and on account of the difficulty in keeping positions on from the dog shaking head, etc., stimulant medicines may be given to increase the circulation, and thus aid in reducing the swelling. Apply warm water or poultice daily, or use yellow oxide of mercury ointment, well rubbed into the skin over the enlargement. Should the swelling show no tendency to become smaller in a few days it would indicate the formation of an abscess in the gland, which should be treated by incision and drainage with some aseptic injection, as not less than 2 per cent. in water. The aperture will return after the swelling and acute stage of the disease has passed off."
Dog Slobbering.--"I would like to ask the cause of a dog's slobbering. He has no appetite."
Question.--Examine the mouth for foreign bodies and the teeth particularly for decay. If either condition exist prompt attention is indicated. Wash out the mouth with the following solution: Permutane of potash one part; alum three parts; water five parts; water one hundred parts. Use freely four or five times a day."
RHEMATIC CONDITION.--My pointer, three weeks old, and naturally fat, since she has had a litter of puppies, has been lame in one hind-leg, favoring it as she travels. The leg seems thinner than the opposite one and recently she travels on her back legs only. She is not lame enough to walk on all four legs but must go internal as she has not been hurt. I have tried liniment but to no avail."
Answer.--She is rheumatic. Give her a teaspoonful of Fellow's Syrup of Hippophyllums three times a day for six weeks, give five grains of saltpine white to cold or dampness, and hand rub the limb twenty minutes at a time three times a day."
Some Facts in Hunting Dogs.--During hunting season, when dogs are run on rough hard ground, they may become sore, especially in the pads, sometimes even through both. A solution of sulphate of copper, one dram to an ounce of water, is good for the sore between the toes, and a strong solution of white oak bark is another remedy, especially for the sore pads.
BUCKING DOGS, To Break Dogs or--Make a small hole in each end of an egg and blow out the contents. Then fill the shell with a mixture of strong mustard and red pepper; paste pieces of white paper over the holes and allow the dog to
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find and eat the egg. Very few experiences with such eggs will be needed to cure his propensity.
**DEBILITY AND WEAKNESS AFTER DISTEMPER.** Have cured my eight-months-old setter bitch of the distemper, but since she has been cured she can hardly stand. Her eyes, nose and mouth seem to be in good condition, yet she eats and drinks little. She is very weak and listless. I have given her a teaspoonful of egg every day for two weeks. The wants have disappeared. Please prescribe.
**AFTER THE PLEURISIE.** If your dog will eat, --feed broth, chopped lean beef, gelatin and eggs, etc.--and give him a Serpentine Clayon or Don't Condition Pill twice a day for probably a month."
No Name for This Disease. My pointer dog is ten years old, hunts and covers the ground in good style until he takes a cold with ease, will hunt all day long, but when he comes in he is so pained that I do not know how to get rid of it. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws. He is pained all over, especially the back and the paws.
**Answer.--Give a teaspoonful of ammocite three times a day. There is no particular name for this trouble in dogs. Also give him for some time one of The Coughing Cure or The Coughing Cure for Dogs."
**ELEVITY.--"Prescribe for my three-year-old six-pound foxhound, that at times while on chase, will suddenly fall; his legs become stiff and he will wail as though in great pain and tremble all over." The attacks do not last long however ever; and he is in right health now." Nothing else (so far as I can see) appears to be wrong." What is this matter? " Answer.--"A mild form of epilepsy." Give him a capsule three times a day containing pinepsin three grains, gentian two grains, nux vomicina one-half grain.
**Deynix Uac Bac or Dircul.--I have a pointer bitch two and a half years old which has already had puppies; she came in last season again about half of June or June 15th; she had four little ones; they were born on June 20th; they took their food down a little bit; she has a little milk in them; should I run them with anything to dry them up? If so, please prescribe."
**Answer.--"Give her a teaspoonful of gentile friction twice a day: Lysolin one ounce; cantharum twenty grains; rhodiumum twenty grains."
**TENACITY TO RICKETS IN PUPPIES.--My English setter puppy two months old; tremble when they stand up and suddenly will fall then when they get up act as if sore on their forelegs; at times they seem better; I feed them milk salt soft food; please prescribe."
**Answer.--"A tendency to rickets." Feed raw lean beef chopped fine raw eggs gelatin meat broth staine bread etc.; and give each puppy one-half teaspoonful of cod liver oil emulsion four times a day."
**Rouxing Son ou Lyce.--On this feisty part of my pointer's hind-leg is a runny sore which has been covered by one inch, and at top of sore are a light-colored fluid." Please prescribe.
**Answer.--"Inject equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water three times a day for three days; then disinfecting sponge and sore three times a day With a solution of sulphate of copper; one dram water one ounce."
AN ASSORTMENT OF CURES
169
KENNEL SORES OR CALLOUS GROWTHS—Dogs are sometimes afflicted with ken-
nel sores on lips and hocks, elbows, etc. They should be attended to at once.
Boracic acid ointment should be applied. Callous growths on elbows and joints must be kept softened with vaseline or whale oil.
FUNGUS GROWTHS ON MOUTH OR TOUGHS—"My cocker spaniel has been troubled lately by a fungus growth on his mouth and tongue." This comes in spots, which enlarge until the several spots join together; it looks like a fungus growth, not a sore, but on the mushroom order. Please prescribe?
ANSWER.—Touch the spots once daily, for four days, with lunar caustic; care being taken not to allow any to run on his tongue, and only one to be treated at a time.
FEVER MISTRESS—Every kennel man should keep a good fever mixture on his kennel shelf. A chill or cold is indicated by hot, dry nose, shivering and lassi-
tude, dull eyes, with more or less discrness from nose and eyes. If attended to at once serious complications may often be avoided. Dogs going to and from the market or traveling long distances should have this mixture in their transportation, and a quinine pill will usually ward off any ill effects. If, how-
ever, the symptoms described develop, the following fever mixture should be given: 1 part of quinine sulphate to 3 parts of water; 1 part of nitrite half ounce; 1 milderder;
1 part of spirits one-half ounce; wine of aniseed one drop; water to make one pint. Com-
pounds for dogs over 15 pounds up to pointer and setters should be given a table-
spoonful in a little gruel every four hours.
DOX SWALLOWED—if a dog has swallowed a small bone, a chicken splinter,
for instance, and shows signs of trouble, it is a good plan to give a bolus of
cooked potato or soft crumb bread. This will generally aid the passage of
the bone.
AGE TO SATE BICHERS—"At what age is it best to spay a bitch? Can a per-
son perform the operation himself? If so, shall he be thankful for the information
on how to proceed?"
The proper operation of spaying a bitch is usually undertaken at the
age of four to six months. I do not advise such an interference with Nature,
however. Upon maturity the spayed bitch or castrated dog becomes unduly fat
and lazy, and lacks enthusiasm, ambition and sagacity. Most assuredly such an
operation must be attended to by a competent veterinarian.
Cocklebur Ovisivum: The Naias Dog—the dog that is little or no exercise out
of doors and that does not get much food more down by contact with the
street are often troubled with this, and neglected cases where the nails curl around
and grow into the flesh are very painful. Faster, causing soreness and lameness.
This condition can be cured by cutting away the nail that is too long and
by having the dog put in a box for two weeks, avoiding cutting into the quick part.
You can easily do this right by being careful.
Dogs KILLING CHICKENS—Should your dog acquire this very bad habit you
can break him of it, which you should do at once, as he has no right to do this,
and perhaps cause trouble with you and your neighbors. Catch him in the act,
give him a good whipping and then take the chicken he has killed and fatten it
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
securely around his neck so he can't scratch it off, and make him wear this chicken for a necklace for a week, or until the chicken has become so decayed that the odor will cause him such an intense dislike for fowl that anything else would smell more nauseous. This is an infallible cure if you can fasten chickens on so securely that he can't get rid of it.
---
A MINISTER'S OPEN LETTER TO A DOG POISONER.
A MINISTER'S OPEN LETTER TO A DOG POISONER. (From Dogman.)
—Some one recently poisoned the little terrier belonging to the Rev. Dr. A. A. Murphy, pastor of the Second Presbyterian Church of New Brunswick, N. J. The loss of his dog grieved Dr. Murphy very much and he wrote the open letter to the poisoner for publication in a local paper:
"To THE MAN Who Poisoned My Dog."
"Whoever you are I do not know, neither do I want to know for fear that I should despise you more than Christianity admits. That little dog never harmed you or any other creature, human or brute. Had you come here he would have greeted you warmly. Why did you do it? Besides, if it had to be done, why not use chloroform, why use that terrible poison that gave him two hours of agony before he died, but why did you kill him like this? What was it? If there be a dog's heaven, and who shall say that there is not? The brave honest, affectionate little fellow is there, for he was just as good as is pos- sible for a brute to be, while you are still on earth. Repent, sir, for as sure as the God who created men and dogs is righteous, shall He hold you responsible for such an unwarriable, cruel, evil deed. I say this without any idea of vengeance, for I have nothing but pity for such as you. No more shall he accompany me in my return! Yet, much as I shall miss my little friend, and he did comfort me in my loneliness, I would rather be the subject of his loss, with the last lick of his tongue on my hand, and the glance of his dying, but loving eye in my memory than be you, with the consciousness of your bad, black deed in your heart."
![]() A black and white illustration of a dog lying down with its head resting on its paws.
HYDROPHOBIA.
To speak out plain and honest, I do not believe in hydrophobia at all, for I don't believe what I don't see, and a good deal that I do see. Many others, and among them noted authorities, however, do believe in the existence of a disease of this kind, which they call hydrophobia, and which they say is rare and both fatal, and also those of others more noted than myself—so you can read it all and believe as you like.
It has been a long time since my first book in collecting additional information and statistics on this subject, as it is an important one to know all about that you can, and I consider that in this article all has been said that can be said. The authorities I quote, pro. and con., are eminent, and the case is now presented to you by me.
It might be considered presumptuous and estopical in me to say that there is no such disease, but I can honestly say that I have never seen a case, and could not find any record of one in the books I have examined. There was only one who was ever bitten by a dog for I carry scars on my body that have been there for many years—from bites of dogs—and I have been bitten hundreds of times in the past thirty years. While I am writing this article I have five sorens on my body from being bitten by dogs. It is not likely that any man would expect to be able to finish this book and live for many years yet, long enough at least to see it in the hands of every dog owner in this country; in fact, he had never time to "go mad" with all breeds, strange dogs, cars and thorough-breds—in- dential to having been a "dog crank" for thirty-five years, it necessarily follows that I have had a vast and varied experience, and could not have done all this and could not have written this book without having been bitten by dogs. My finger, which might be inconvenient and bothersome for a few days. The only thing I have ever done when bitten, if the bite was on a part of the body where I could get my blood drawn, was to go to the doctor's office and get some blood taken off. This ends the matter there with me. There eight have been danger of blood poisoning as there always is from a wound, but if so, how simple to suck out this poison and at once get rid of all danger by applying the antiseptic solution given under heading of "Bitten."
Now, should you be bitten by a dog, if you are a sensible person, not nervous or easily scared, have not read too many highly colored and sensational "mad dog" items in the newspapers (which kill more people than dogs do), and keep
| HYDROPHOBIA. |
| To speak out plain and honest, I do not believe in hydrophobia at all, for I don't believe what I don't see, and a good deal that I do see. Many others, and among them noted authorities, however, do believe in the existence of a disease of this kind, which they call hydrophobia, and which they say is rare and both fatal, and also those of others more noted than myself—so you can read it all and believe as you like. |
| It has been a long time since my first book in collecting additional information and statistics on this subject, as it is an important one to know all about that you can, and I consider that in this article all has been said that can be said. The authorities I quote, pro. and con., are eminent, and the case is now presented to you by me. |
| It might be considered presumptuous and estopical in me to say that there is no such disease, but I can honestly say that I have never seen a case, and could not find any record of one in the books I have examined. There was only one who was ever bitten by a dog for I carry scars on my body that have been there for many years—from bites of dogs—and I have been bitten hundreds of times in the past thirty years. While I am writing this article I have five sorens on my body from being bitten by dogs. It is not likely that any man would expect to be able to finish this book and live for many years yet, long enough at least to see it in the hands of every dog owner in this country; in fact, he had never time to "go mad" with all breeds, strange dogs, cars and thorough-breds—in- dential to having been a "dog crank" for thirty-five years, it necessarily follows that I have had a vast and varied experience, and could not have done all this and could not have written this book without having been bitten by dogs. My finger, which might be inconvenient and bothersome for a few days. The only thing I have ever done when bitten, if the bite was on a part of the body where I could get my blood drawn, was to go to the doctor's office and get some blood taken off. This ends the matter there with me. There eight have been danger of blood poisoning as there always is from a wound, but if so, how simple to suck out this poison and at once get rid of all danger by applying the antiseptic solution given under heading of "Bitten." |
| Now, should you be bitten by a dog, if you are a sensible person, not nervous or easily scared, have not read too many highly colored and sensational "mad dog" items in the newspapers (which kill more people than dogs do), and keep |
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
your sober senses about you, don't believe or pay any attention to what your supposed friends say, when they tell you "how sorry they are," and bestow on you a look of pity, but go about your business as usual; forget the affair, and go mad, go to bed, go to work, go mad, go to bed, go to work, go mad, and die.
If this is true logic, why have I not gone mad years ago? I was bitten a couple of times by a Yorkshire terrier brought to me that was suffering from what a very good veterinary surgeon in Cincinnati had diagnosed as dumb rabies in this dog. I could not take the dog to treat, as I was just starting on a trip, so sent him away. The dog was taken to the city hospital where he was biteding me, also bit him, and the dog died in twenty four hours. The doctor held a post-mortem examination and told me it was a case of dumb rabies; but the doctor and I are both living now.
I have been bitten by canes hydrophobia, and then I will be glad to have him explain to me what the disease is. If he can do this, then I'll try to believe there is such a thing as hydrophobia. If he can't cure it, he doesn't know what it is because he is in ignorance of it. It is not for every disease; but you must first know whether it is trying to cure, or you want to cure.
Every summer the papers are full of mad dog victims; but our best authors who do believe in hydrophobia will tell you that summer, or in hot weather, is the time for it. They say that dogs bite people during the day because they are great annoyers; that he bites and harks, etc., etc. So he apparently does. I will admit this, as I know of some authenticated cases like this, but the "barking and biting" could easily be explained if the attendants and friends who saw it were not themselves mad. The dog's only fault was that he had bitten me; and all due to the scar that comes to so many from the awful word "hydrophobia" and the many vivid and overdrawn accounts they have read in the papers gotten up by a very bright reporter who had to furnish something sensational for publication. The only reason why these people are bitten is their own lives by not retaining their sense about them and in most cases of this kind taking their timts and getting safely out of the burning building, instead of either of them going into the fire themselves. They are bitten by dogs on the pavement below or getting crushed to death in the mad rush of the other side.
In case you are bitten by a dog, see to it that the dog is not killed; but he is confined and well taken care of for a few weeks at least until you can see and hear him again. If he has been killed before you can get him home, what an insane idea it is to kill the dog after he has bitten you, for then you will never know whether he was mad or not, and the constant dread and fear will continue with you until you die.
I am often asked how long one can live after being bitten by a dog which causes you to go "mad" and die. I have often been called in to put a poor dog out of the way that was supposed to be mad (and I chloroformed it according to orders from its owner), thinking myself at the time that it was better for me than for the dog. But I have seen dogs which were supposed to be mad as well as the poor dog, who was in serious trouble, of course, but due to some natural cause and not so-called hydrophobia. Sometimes, however, out of pity for the dog which has been bitten or has been put down for being properly treated, I have allowed to take the dog to my house and let him live; but even though he seemed poor fellow. I am deeply in earnest in my views on this much-mudded subject, and I believe that thousands of people would be alive to-day that have died from hydrophobia if they would look at the matter as I do and act accordingly.
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poor dogs have fits in summer, due to many causes, but they could nearly all have been cured if properly treated in time, and as all important diseases are treated in this book, if you will follow its teachings your dog will live until the day he dies, and will never again bite in his checks and go to "dog heaven" with the rest of the good canines gone before.
A hard question for you or any doctor to answer is, "Why have I not gone mad?" when it is a fact that I do not bite dogs, nor do I ever go to "dog heaven." I may be correct because I am wrong, if it can be done. While I may be taking up too much space on this subject, yet it is an important one. I will next give two interviews that were published in March, 1856, in a St. Louis paper, which I think are worth quoting:
Prof. A.L. Eberhart, who came to St. Louis last week to assume active charge of the preparations for the bench show, is a man who has spent the better part of his life raising and curing dogs, and his opinion upon this subject is that of an authority. Prof. Eberhart says:
I have had my first dog at the age of ten hundred times in my life and carry scars now that I've had for twenty five years. Some of these so-called mad dogs have bitten me, but yet I am not mad. I have been bitten by dogs that veterinary surgeons and regular physicians have pronounced and diagnosed as mad rabbies, but I am not mad. The reason why I am not mad is that I am nervous and easily scared I would very likely have been buried long ago. Some ten years ago a young lady in New York City was bitten by her pet dog, and, not knowing what to do, she went to a doctor who prescribed a dose of opium for her dog bit him several times. The young lady died in three weeks from ilealgie hydrophobia, and Harry Janssen is alive yet. The young lady died from fright. This I know to be a fact. Find me a doctor that can tell what hydrophobia is? It is not a disease here. There are no such things as hydrophobias. When the disease is, he surely can't cure it. When a dog bites you, if it is on any part of your body where you can get your mouth to it as soon as bitten, suck the wound, thus quickening the poison into your blood stream. If you do not do this, the poison will remain in the dog's mouth and cause death. If you apply the actual cautery, a piece of iron heated to white heat, not to the flesh, but hold it about half an inch from it. The intense heat causes but little pain and will destroy the haecilis of rabies to the depth of quarter inch of an inch. If carbolic acid is used instead of iron, it will kill the rabies within fifteen minutes. If properly performed inside of ten minutes it is not only useless but positively injurious as the poison of rabies will have been distributed throughout the whole body.
The following appeared editorially in the St. Louis Republic of February 3d, 1856: "The interview with Prof. A.G. Eberhart, Superintendent of the St. Louis bench show, which was printed in the Sunday Post-Digest, in which Prof. Eberhart made the assertion that he had never seen a genuine case of hydrophobia, and that all cases of hydrophobia were caused by the effects of dog bites; that these cases were the result of imagination; has created much talk and considerable comment."
"Prof. Eberhart was called upon Saturday by a Post-Digest reporter, and asked if he could make his position as a disbeliever in the existence of the disease
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plainer than those reasons given in the short letter in last Sunday's Post-Dispatch.
"Yes," said the Professor, "I believe that I can. When I said that I had never seen a genuine case of hydrophobia I meant it. I have seen many cases
that were thought to be mad, but have never yet seen one that was thoroughly
affected with the disease. In such cases, when the dog has been suspected of being thus affected, we might in time have an understanding of the
subject by studying the sick dogs. But the first thing that happens to a dog when
it is attacked by hydrophobia is that it becomes very violent and vicious, and after
and after that it is a very short time until its existence is ended by a bullet
through the head, and the most valuable evidence in the case is destroyed. If
the dog had been spared and confined, if he had been mad, the fact could have been known before any attempt was made to kill him. The only proof that it was a case of rabies without a shadow of doubt. But this course is seldom
pursued, and the dog that has bitten any one in a spasm, it makes no matter
whether it be a man or a woman, is immediately killed without regard to his
value, and the bitten party left to suffer the torment of his conscience as to whether he or she was inoculated with the virus of hydrophobia or not."
"Now here is a case in point," continued the professor. "Last week, just
before my arrival at this city, I went to Hamilton County, Ohio, and visited
Cincinnati and said that he had just taken his pet dog to the police station near
my house to be shot; that he thought that the dog had gone mad, and to be on the
safe side he had decided to have him destroyed, and had brought him to the
station house where I found him lying down on the floor. He was dead,
however, as the dog was a household pet, and its death would be keenly felt and
its presence missed. The policeman who was on duty at the time suggested that,
as I was a physician, I would go over to see what was wrong with the animal.
gentleman that I would go over to the station in a few minutes, and if I could do anything for the animal I would use the extent of my abilities, and he returned home."
After I had finished my dinner I went over to the police station and found out that the Sergeant had arrived. I asked him if he had the dog.
"Yes," said he, "he is in that cage there."
"Bring me up," said I.
"Not on your life," replied the Sergeant. "I wouldn't touch that dog for all
the money in Hamilton County. Why, man, he's mad; I won't go near him. If you
would like to see him you must go yourself with him, go and unlock
the cell yourself. I think he ought to be shot without delay."
"Well," I went over to the cell and saw the dog. He was a little Italian grey-
hound, as fragile-looking as a long-stemmed wine glass. The poor little fellow was in the cell with his head between his paws, and his tail hanging down his
head thrust between the bars in his pain, and his hind-quarters were fanned in
between the two adjoining uprights. He looked up at me with fear showing out
of his side eyes, but betrayed no signs of dog madness. He was so weak
and trembling with fear.
"I unlocked the cell door and went in and picked the little fellow up, and after soothing him and getting him quelled down a little, I administered a dose
of morphine which did not seem to affect him much. Then I carried him away.
A little later I gave him a small dose of castor oil and put him to bed. I sat up with that dog until 2 o'clock in the morning, and after
he was relieved by the off he was well, still, barring the weakness resulting from
his terrific spasms of the night before, he was perfectly sound."
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(I forgot to state in this interview that before leaving the dog, and after the oil, I gave him a dose of worm medicine; result was a lot of worms passed, and here was the cause of this "mad dog.")
"After I had arrived in the morning I telephoned the owner of the dog to come and see me. He came, and his gratitude was manifest in the way he greeted the little fellow that he had condemned to death the night before."
"Now, supposing that the dog had bitten the Police Sergeant. The Sergeant would have been killed, and then what? Would any possibility the dog had bitten him he would have worried himself until it would have perhaps resulted in an attack of hydrophobia. The dog would have been immediately killed, and thus all evidence that there was no rabies manifested in the case would have been destroyed, and another name would have been added to the list of suspected victims to this terrible disease, deletion, or whatever you choose to term it.
"What was really the matter with the dog. Professor?" queried the Post-Discrach man.
"Word," said Prof. Eberhart, "nothing but worms. And let me tell you that at the bottom of nearly every illness to which a dog is subjected you will find syphilis. That is why we are so careful about our dogs' health. We keep them healthy, and they are healthy because we keep them healthy. If owners would keep their dogs' bowels open with an occasional dose of some purgative there would be many less cases of 'mad dogs' like that poor little fellow, sick Hanan geophryy lying on the cold stone floor of that Cincinnati station car."
"But that wasn't the end of that case," continued the Professor, "and this part of it shows just how little this question of mad dogs is understood. After I had gone home I went back to my house. My wife had been taken home, his owner, who had called for him in the morning, came in."
"No, Professor," said he, "I know and you know that our dog is all right. But my wife has been worrying all night about him. She has been watching every movement of his body, and she has seen nothing but a personal visit from you will reassure her and quiet her fears, and I wish you would call at my house and see her."
"I am sorry," said the gentleman's residence and talked to his wife. I told her how her dog would act under certain conditions. I asked her, if her infant was thrown into spasms from worms if she would be afraid of contracting hydrophobia at once. I showed her that an ailment affected a dog exactly as it would a human. She saw that it was true and saw the point of your argument. She now sees no more "rabies" in her dog.
"Now, I know of another case," said the professor, "where a small child was bitten by a mad dog. The doctor washed the dog's teeth clean to the skull, and that dog died two days later with all the aversion to water that they claim is an infallible symptom of hydrophobia, that he could manifest, still the little boy did not have rabies, and simply because he was too small to take part in his parents' worry over the outcome of the bite."
The following appeared editorially in the St. Louis Republic, Feb. 24, 1886:
"This is far from dog-day time, but The Republic trusts that the optimism of the St. Louis Bench Shown Superintendent will be treasured by nervous mothers for use next August. He says that there is no such thing as poisonous rabies in dogs."
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"It is curious that every man who has handled great numbers of dogs bears the same testimony.
"There is danger of blood poisoning as a result of any animal's bite; and there is no such extreme effect of blood poisoning. But the men who have been longest in charge of dogs agree that there is no rabid condition when n. bite is more dangerous than at any other time, and that a dog's bite at any time is no more dangerous than the search of a man with a knife.
"Of course, the ordinary public know. For the sake of humanity's peace of mind the doctors should find out whether the experience of men who have been bitten dozens of times is worth anything."
Harry W. Lacy recently wrote in the American Stockcker on this subject:
"One would think that a man having intelligence enough to write editorials on a local newspaper would not make such a foolish statement as that muzzling dogs was a sure way to prevent hydrophobia, but this is what a Boston Standard editorial said last week. Probably there is no subject about which the average newspaper writer gets off more easily than about hydrophobia."
"These hydrophobics scare are mainly due to the sensational imagination of the reporter who plays upon the nervousness of a public only too ready to say a dog at once, and then when the scare has assumed suitable proportions and a mass of people are alarmed, the doctors are first the to question its advisability and play on the feeling of those people who may over-react, with the nonsensical statement alluded to above.
"The very rare disease called hydrophobia is only produced by inoculation. The dog who was bitten by a dog might have been muzzled to the end of his natural life, and unless he was actually bitten by a rabid dog he would be none the worse, though, according to his temperament, the incubus might make him bed-ridden, irritable, and so excite his nervous temperament as to send him into fits. This disease is not common in this country, though it occurs among rabbits popularly, but erroneously, associated with hydrophobia.
"If such a thing as hydrophobia really exists in a locality there is no sure method of preventing it. It can be cured by proper treatment in order strictly enforced. The reason is obvious. This may entail hardship on individuals and families of the others and the community at large demands it."
"Speaking of hydrophobia scarcely do we not hear from any that the American Institute for Preventive Medicine claim that there is an unhealthy state of public mind in regard to the disease than any other agency. The advent of new patients is heralded throughout the country, and patients from distant states are treated on account of this disease. The fact that these patients are treated shows that the dogs were really rabid. Still they undergo the treatment, and Dr. Glhier claims credit for spontaneous immunity."
Here are the ideas of Dr. H. Clay Glover, of New York City, one of the highest authorities on canine diseases that we have in America:
Dr. H. Clay Glover interviewed on the muzzling question by a New York Herald reporter on May 10th, 1893.
"Because," said Dr. Glover, "it is of no possible benefit either to the dog or public. The mad dog scare, which has been so long agitated, is a myth, and one calculated to do much injury by the introduction of a false hydrophobia induced by fear. During my long experience in canine practice I have never seen but one case of authenticated
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rabies. I have been called to see hundreds of so-called mad dogs, and found them were merely in convulsions, affected by epilepsy or suffering from an attack of indigestion or from over excitement, all of which yield to proper treatment."
Another very able authority is next given:
In the *Animal World*, Mr. Rotherham, a canine practitioner, describes the different forms of rabies, and their causes. He says: "In rabies a dog never foams at the mouth, its tongue and lips are brown and hard-looking; the discharge from the mouth is small in quantity, brownish in color and hangs about the lips like strings of grime; the eyes have an unnatural glare. In apoplexy three factors are necessary: 1st, the presence of a poison; 2nd, the presence of a fever; 3rd, the eyes are fixed and bloodshot, the breathing is heavy; there is no unusual discharge of saliva. In epilepsy the dog is seen to tremble just as the fit is coming on; then it becomes stiff and rigid, and then it falls down. The muscles contract violently, all voluntary muscles are powerfully convulsed; generally he utters short, sharp cries but not always; there is a copious discharge of white, frothy saliva, the gums are of a pale leaden hue. When recovering from an epileptic fit the dog has a bewildered look, the eyes having lost their usual and stupid expression."
So far as I know, this is the only explanation of the sudden commencement of the dog's nervous system is often mistaken for symptoms of rabies, while a dog in convulsions, in an epileptic fit, or stricken with apoplexy may be shot as mad--particularly if it be hot weather--before there is a chance of determining the nature of the disease. The nervous system is composed of two parts: 1st, the brain and the spinal cord. These Stonehenge compares to the electric telegraph. The brain calls he central office. From that station are issued messages to all parts of the body. The spinal cord transmits messages are the nerves of motion, the nerves of sensation and the nerves of organical action.
The normal movements of the body are, says a writer in *Our Animal Friends* (the reader will find it useful to study this book), "the activity of the nerve-muscular mechanism, i. e., of the nerve centers, nerves and muscles. In convulsions the movements are purposeless and irregular, and are, of course, wasteful of the natural energy. In epilepsy they are spasmodic and violent; they come from neural palsy or from toothache, from meninxitis, excessive fright, para-sites in the nose or brain, acute ear disease, or from the distress of being lost in a large city; or, if a female, of being deprived of her whelps. Recently it has been shown that epilepsy is due to an excess of salivary secretion. It stands to reason that so sensitive an animal should never be unduly excited."
On no account allow one dog to see another in a fit. The suffering dog should be kept alone in a dark room until it recovers completely. It must be free from all excitement. In most cases of convulsion a small dose of bromide of potassium will do great good. Hydrophobia, considered as a canine disease, is decidedly a misnomer. The proper term for canine madness is rabies.
The rabbet has no difficulty in swallowing its food when it is not paralyzed; he has no difficulty in swallowing it. Rabies is a specific disease of the nervous system. In all cases there is an intense inflammation of the brain and spinal cord; there is also an inflammation of the salivary glands and to inflamed glands. The mucous glands of the stomach and bowels, the liver, the pancreas and the kidneys are all more or less injured with blood; but the salivary glands are especially affected, and the secretion of saliva is greatly increased.
There is the furious or maniacal form of rabies and the paralytic. The paralytic
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is known as dumb rabies. Absolutely typical cases of either form are as rare as is the disease. Death, however, usually results in from two to ten days in the furious form, while in dumb rabies the period is much shorter.
The howl or bark of a mad dog is very remarkable. It is totally unlike his ordinary bark, and is often so different that one can easily mistake it. The dog's appetite is so perverted that he will swallow stones, sticks, straws and almost any flitch. His blinding and snapping are reflex actions; that is, they are involuntary. The condition of the animal when it first becomes irritable is an advanced stage of rabies. In the earlier stages the animal is sulkened and inclined to hide away in corners. His eyes grow wild and suspicious.
If at large he will roam over wide tracts of country at a jog trot, with his head lowered and his ears drooping. This is called the "mad" rabies. The next stage of the disease is characterized by violent spasmodic movements. The muscles of mastication are paralyzed so that the lower jaw is dropped; there is no manual control at all.
Epileptical convulsions are due to an irregular discharge of the nerve cells. These convulsions may be of various duration, and the spasms are of two kinds. A prolonged muscular contraction is called a tonic spasm. Following this tonic spasm are the clonic spasms, which consist of alternate contraction and relaxation of the muscles. The spasms may be accompanied by twitching of the tongue. Epilepsy may be hereditary, or may be due to teething and worming.
Apoplexy differs greatly from epilepsy. The convulsions are not prominent; the pupils of the eyes are either contracted or dilated; there is long-continued unresponsiveness to external stimuli.
Meninxitis, so often mistaken for rabies, is yet very different. The tempera-
ture is very much elevated, which it is not in rabies; the dog snaps, but shows no tendency to bite. There is no particular bark and howl combined, although the dog's voice is high-pitched.
Phrenitis is simply inflammation of the brain. It is sometimes a complica-
tion of distemper; and is the only disorder which resembles rabies. It generally occurs after a severe attack of distemper.
Hydrophobia in human beings," wrote a writer, "results from accidents of a nervous nature, sometimes mental, sometimes cerebral, according as they derive from disorders analogous to tetanus (lockjaw) produced by a wound or from purely mental disorders." According to Dr. Caffe, "Spontaneous rabialhure hy-
drophobia is the only ralbies that exists, and that it is a mortal ralbies." Before M. Fouchet's experiments on dogs, hydrophobia was considered incurable and was reported to have died of hydrophobia. Now, strange as it may seem, the number of persons who annually report themselves bitten by rabid dog averages from 1,500 to 2,000 each year in this country alone. This number represents more than 1% of our population and is more or less a form of hysteria. Were these men talk about it, it would be better for the community. A little more knowledge of our own nervous system, a little less ignorance of the dog's soul and we shall be far more likely to escape hydrophobia than we do now.
I will now give a most important and valuable interview with the famous medical expert, Prof. Edward C. Spitzka, of New York. Prof. Spitzka declares that he has observed three cases of hunting from the start to finish, and that he has never seen a case where he could not cure them. He therefore inquires his doctor whether he has ever cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog with hydrophobia? If he has not cured any dog withhydro phob
Although Pasteur was undoubtedly as sincere in his work as his follower,
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Paul Gibler, doubtless in dispensing the ridiculous treatment," said Prof. Spitzka.
"I am willing to stake my reputation that there is no such disease as 'hydrophobia,' or 'rabies,' in existence, and I am further impressed that the Pasteur locutions are injurious. This is not merely my opinion. I have a practical explanation for this belief, which has been long and thoroughly weighed every possible opposition to my conclusion by parallel consideration.
"I am accordingly prepared to answer any criticism. Of course, the strongest objection to the Pasteur treatment is its practicability. It is difficult to see how the steps of the narrowly-minded opponents of the wonderful Jenner analogical vaccination discovery, on which the Pasteur treatment hinges its practicability. As to this most eminent charge there is no connection between the two treatments. For while the Pasteur treatment is applicable only to dogs, and even then only to those who have been bitten by rabid animals, the use of hydrophobia, or rabies, has never been satisfactorily demonstrated. I have not myself -- nor has any other expert investigator--been able to distinctly diagnose a single case of the so-called insanity, to my knowledge, I have often witnessed the symptoms of hydrophobia in men, but these symptoms are not uncommonly mistaken for hydrophobia, and many cases of hydrophobia have been plainly nothing more than tetanus symptoms of acute fevers and the many forms of deadly blood poisoning.
"Many persons have been misled into believing that there are any symptoms. There is not an authority to be found for its assumption. It is yet to be explained how water could possibly have such an effect, while all the knowledge modern science has amassed goes to provide the belief merely an antiquated superstition, to which we must still resort."
"When Pasteur's boom was exploded, and the public went wild with enthusiasm over it, along with the great majority of scientific men, I was also taken in by this fad. The Pasteur treatment was hailed as a triumph of science. But it has failed in the field of contagious and epidemic diseases generally, much substantial advance has not been recorded in the history of the mysterious rabies, but realizing that this was not due to neglect of the subject, I was not surprised at the birth of the Pasteur treatment.
"Owing to the terrible nature of the symptoms attributed to this unfounded malady, an attractive field for research has been open to those animated by an enquiring mind. The Pasteur treatment has been applied with success in some parts of our civilized world. The symptoms are described in the works of Horace, Aristotle, Pliny and Plutarch, in a manner which shows that while the world has advanced in all other lines of medical science it is pitifully behind in date in clinging to this relic of superstition.
"The Pasteur was fascinated--or shall I say hypnotized!--by the sensationalism and mystery of the belief. It is most likely due to the latter element that the universe has been made up of a series of beings involved in the "rabies" or hydrophobia hoax, which really belong to medieval history."
"Take a practical, up-to-date view of the matter. All epidemic disorders should be accompanied with evidences approaching in exactitude, at least, a degree of certainty. The symptoms should be observed during life, as well as those signs found in the dead body, in such diseases as smallpox, typhus fever and cholera; for instance, are characteristic, decisive and constant. The symptoms in "rabies" in man are extremely vague, conflicting and variable. They are not only in man, as well as in canine, but have yielded no result of either than negative value.
"Much of the observation made of quackering dogs is made through optics disturbed by fear; and by persons who are incompetent to judge what they see."
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consequently if a canine froth at the mouth, run with his tongue out and carry
his tail drawn under his body he has the rabies, and the revolver or policeman's
polished button act unconsciously called into service.
What nonsense! Such signs have been observed in dogs that have merely
been in a fever, that is to say, dogs with ordinary canine diseases. What if they are taken to a water trough and go into convulsions when they see the liquid.
They are overexcited and at a high tension of nervous excitement. Accordingly they continue to be excited until they die. The only thing that can be done for them
serves sufficiently to paralyse it off, and so the unquenchable craving throws them
into the dreadful paroxysms which decide their fate.
The same explanation serves for the supposed increase of rabies in man. Any
human being who is not a morose, or one who is mentally weak enough to
work up as lively nervous excitement to that I have just cited in the canine will suffer
paralytic symptoms; the others bitten by so-called mad dogs will suffer no ill
effects unless he is from a country where the disease is prevalent. The man's
mental excitement causes the water syndrome do not present themselves if the
afflicted are strong enough in mind to keep control of their nervous systems.
"I believe that many of the sufferers who develop the imaginary diseases were bitten by dogs, but that they did not know it because they had been taught
that such bites would cause them mental illness; any, even by healthy dogs. The seriousness and oft-times fatal in-
fluence of terror and expectant attention, fostered by the excitement of popular
alarm is equally testified by other epidemics of irritative nervous disorder, and is a fact which has been carefully and scientifically studied the possible influ-
ences of mind on the body."
"From as far back as the thirteenth century, when the Albigensians persecuted
the heretics, there was a belief that dogs had human limbs. This belief was teach-
ing children to pieces, and instilling that limbs be lopped off in order to con-
vince others that the wolfish fur grew inward from their skins, to the present day
when those dreadfully hydropathic bark and snarling like dogs, now and apt like cats,
are considered as being possessed by demons. The world is full of people replete with overflowing with delusion, superstiton, hysterics and unconscious alia-
tation."
The tragical-comical case of a number of persons dying in the sixteenth century,
after having eaten of a pig that had been bitten by a dog, which in turn had been
bitten by another and believed to be a rabid one, found its counterpart a short time
ago in Russia, where a medical editor and a prominent follower of Pasteur sug-
gested that dogs were responsible for all cases of rabies. It is better known than
they had partaken of milk from a dog infected with rabies. A suspicious acting dog.
It is difficult to determine how great the danger from "rabies" was in the United States about ten years ago, when Pasteurism was popularized in the country. I care-
fully followed up all the newspaper and medical journal reports of alleged out-
breaks of the malady, and in not a single case was satisfactory evidence of its exist-
ence. In 1875 there was an outbreak at Newark and Chicago. In the epidemic at Niles Centre, seven miles from Chicago, which led to a wild hunt and slaughter of the innocent canines in that village, the sickly subjects were successfully cured by the "madstone"—a harmless species of
the "fat" snake—this cure being made more popular by this snake being mostly due to
a sensible physician who declined to make a premature diagnosis.
"At Newark, scientific tests were made, which showed that neither the per-
sons dying of "rabies" excepted "the dogs that had bitten them," nor the children re-
puted to have been saved by the Pasteur treatment, had been afflicted with any such disease.
"Prof. D. H. of the Carnegie Laboratory, and Law, of Cornell, inoculated dogs with material from the Pasteur procedure. Neal, na I did from the de-
ceased Hertel, and in every case with negative result."
"The veterinarian, Runge, kept the dogs bitten by the suspected animal in quar-
antine for four months and then discharged them as not "rabid." Some children bitten by the dog were sent to the hospital, but they all recovered. They are as free from disease as those who were subjected to the treatment.
"Scores of observations might be added in bringing the review up to date, all of which tend to show that the cases reported, including the eight Baltimore vic-
tims, were not due to rabies. The Baltimore authorities have now learned of those of the latter who died after receiving the Pasteur treatment. I should say they were poisoned, either by the inoculations or by poxinomae from decayed teeth of the suspicious canine that bit them. Of the others who are be-
lieved to have been bitten by this dog, none have died. It is difficult to see how in biting them the animal didn't happen to get any of the poisonous saliva in the wound or that their systems were not susceptible to the dangers of the Pasteur inoculation. It can be proved that what is believed to be some persons merely died to others. The following case is typical of this treatment.
"In Pennsylvania a number of persons were needlessly rendered unhappy by a sensational story to the effect that 'rabies' had become epidemic in one of the State's prosperous villages. A large number of school children and several adults had been infected by dog bites. After several of the children and two of the adults had died, it was found that a dog had been killed and was found to be dif-
fering from epizootic fits, induced by his having swallowed a piece of bone. The deaths caused by the bites were undoubtedly due to the same cause as I have ex-
plained in regard to the Baltimore victims.
"It is interesting to note that in this case it was stated that "rabies" was "as fatal" as "hydrophobia," but it was either not shown that the subject had been bitten by a dog at all or that the dog had been mad in the Pasteur sense. Indeed, the errors that have been com-
mitted in this direction would be amusing were it not for other and trucial attend-
ance on this subject.
"Let it be inoculated in the public mind that the sensational symptoms which trad-
ition assigns to rabies are fictitious, and, like the fear of water which has given man so much trouble, they are only due to our own imagination. It is impos-
sible for a dog to inoculate a man with the tendency to bark and run on all fours
and it is for man to inoculate a dog with the faculty of speech and an upright gait--then what has been drifting through medical and newspaper literature as
"rabies."
"If once thoroughly understood by the people at large, that superstitious fear
and expectant attention may not alone develop serious nervous symptoms, but also actuate men against animals, we shall find no more cases of rabies than we
see ill effects, such as poxinomae poisoning after a dog bite, would cultivate that healthful self-control, which was so happily inoculated by Dr. James Gordon Spencer in the Watertown case, and Dr. Exton in the Arlington case."
Herein is reproduced Hugh Daxler's entire treatise on this subject. He is a noted authority in England and the author of several books on dogs and horses.
You will see that he believes in hydrophobia, so you have now both sides of the ques-
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matter to read, ponder over and digest so as to get a full and complete idea of the matter in all its bearings.
"Although the symptoms of this terrible disease have long been recognized and clearly understood by scientific men, there is still unfortunately great ignorance re-
garding it evinced by the general public—an ignorance fraught with much danger to man, and the cause of much cruelty and death, often most brutally inflicted on hundreds of poor dogs, more innocent of madness than any other animal who doth not know how to distinguish between good and evil."
"I have found the prevailing idea of a mad dog to be that of an animal with
glaring, bloodless eyes, covered with the froth of his excitement, and rushing wild-
ly either thither and thither, or at some object, or at nothing. This is a very
crude notion, and an excitedly nervous finding himself out of his knowledge is
often enough to raise the cry of "a mad dog," and with many a sign is a sign positive,
and the occurrence of epilepsy has been the incitement to canine murder in num-
berless cases."
"It is quite true that the disease produces great nervous excitement, and
creates a spirit of unrest—it also, in the first stages of its existence, increases the
fearfulness of the dog, which is one of the chief causes of his being killed. The
champing of the jaws in an epileptic fit; in rabies, the discharge becomes thick
and glutinous, and the sufferer may be seen pawing at his mouth to clear it;
as though choked with a bone. The disposition of the dog is often entirely changed,
and he will run away from his master, or even from strangers. He will rush into some quiet lair, generally selecting some dark corner, behind a large object.
If out on the march he will rather evade man than seek company; and although
biting furiously at all and everything that obstructs air passage, rarely giving way
to any other sensation but that of pain. In short, he is a dangerous dog; every-
thing he gets hold of; nothing comes amiss to him, and the disposition to bite is shown by his frequently snapping at imaginary objects in the air. Contrary to the
popular notion that dogs are always ready to attack anything that moves, they are
ly given to this disease in the dog, the pooruffer laps water greedily as long as
his power over the muscles is retained, and when that is gone, plunges his head
into the water to cool his parched and burning mouth. In latter stages, the dog becomes convulsively agitated, and will not allow himself to be touched,
and their presence independent of more certain evidence of rabies, should never give rise to fear.
"I can say no more than to indicate the most prominent and well-known certain symptoms, and those who wish for fuller information on the subject should consult
the works of Youatt, and the more recent book of Dr. Fleming.
"Whilst too great care and caution cannot be used in dealing with a disease so
dangerous as this, yet it must be remembered that it is not only a disease which
alarms which dethrones the reason, and predisposes to the gravest results. If there be reason to suspect a dog of madness; if his natural disposition appears changed
without a traceable cause, if he turns and bites at his bedding, pieces of wood, earth or stones; if he shows signs of restlessness; if he runs about aimlessly; if he
articulate article is in his throat; if at intervals he maps and bites vaguely at objects real and imaginary; if under these paroxysms he be seen to stagger and fall; if he show an insensible thing—if any or all of these symptoms occur—then you had better take up your dog immediately; for you have before you a valid veterinary argument. By allowing him to study the case, you will do a public good; for fortunately, cases of rabies are very rare, and it is only by the careful investigation of them by men
HYDROPHOBIA.
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specially educated to undertake the duty, that we can ever hope to discover a cure.
"Among the numerous superstitions that hang like clouds round canine madness,
observing any possibility of a clear view of it, I will refer to one only, most of them being altogether unworthy of notice. It has long been a popular belief that a person bitten by a dog would die within twenty-four hours after the bite, and would never safe from an attack of rabies so long as the dog lives; for it is held, that should the dog become mad at any future period, however distant, the person bitten will be attacked by the same animal. This is a very plausible way to prove that rabies is communicated by a dog free from it are constantly struck down, and know of a case of a woman who is said to have died from hydrophobia, caused by the bite of a dog that was clearly proved to be free from rabies at the time, and has re-
mained perfectly well since. The case of a woman who was bitten by her own child, and the entrance of a small dog so alarmed her for her child's safety that she seized the intruder and threw it out of the window, and was bitten in the struggle, the woman was taken ill and died, showing all the symptoms of hydro-
phobia. In this case, however, there is no doubt but that the dog had hydro-
phobia. I do not intend to dispute the opinion thus given, but I venture to say had the whole facts of the case been carefully investigated, may, by a jury of physi-
cians, be shown that the woman was not bitten by a dog suffering from hydro-
phobia, but by a dog suffering from hydrophobia. The dog might have shared in causing the woman's death. To me it appears as reasonable to believe that the dog could have bitten the woman without being in the same room with her,
as that the bite could communicate rabies when the disease did not at that
time exist in the animal. It is evident that there must be some cause for these be-
liefs, men that the truth might be elicited and the fears of the nervous altered. The
practical lesson to be learned from this is, care and caution in dealing with dogs,
especially those which are known to be suffering from hydrophobia, which often brings about
the evil it would avoid. When an accident does occur, it is advisable to immedi-
ately cutter its full depth with cautusy, and let the nervous. In addition, obtain medical advice.
I am inclined towards having much to do with dogs to carry in the pocket at all
times one of those wooden cases of caustic which costs but sixpence, and with this
safeguard about them, and the presence of mind and nerve to use it promptly and
hurryingly--taking care that it reaches as deep as the tooth did--the bite
even if it should reach them no harm.
Since the above was written, ten years ago, rabies in dogs has unfortunately
been rather frequent, and a few years ago from the number of deaths from hyd-
rophobia among children in this country. The reason why this has happened is due
to the attention of medical men and veterinarians at home and abroad has been very
much directed to its nature; as yet, however, no cure has been discovered, and I see
no reason to alter what I have already said; but it will be useful very briefly to
outline some of the reasons why this disease exists in this country. It is con-
clusively that the rabid poison exists in the saliva, and in none of the other secre-
tions.
Although its propagation by a bite or by the poisoned saliva coming in contact
with an abraded or highly vascular surface are clearly enough means of trans-
mission and propagation, how it originates is unknown: exposure to great heat,
feeling on salt meat, compelled abstention from water, and many other causes,
which are supposed to produce hydrophobia in man. That it is peculiarly a disease of the dogs day is fabulous, nor is it connected with
the functions of procreation, further than the present law in this country permits owners of bitches when in season to be fought over by excited males, furnished
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog biting another dog.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
excellent opportunities for its spread as well as being an insult to decency. It is the duty of men who keep dogs to have some knowledge of their nature, and the law should punish the ignorance or carelessness that causes an offense and a danger to themselves and others.
"Unfortunately no cures are yet known; such things as the Birling and Webb's cures, and other pretended family secrets may be swept aside. Medical men have tried every conceivable drug, and a few years ago it was thought that a specific could be found. The dog is a very curious animal, and he will try anything. He will eat his own droppings, and even his own excrement, just as hard drowning in Hogg's Cray, a pool in the Severn, was at one time believed in.
"Medical measures are alone to be relied on, and the very old one of the Greeks, sucking the part, is excellent, and a small instrument has been invented which can be easily used; it is like a old-fashioned breast exhauster, with the bell-shaped head and long tube, but with a round bell half way up the tube as well, which is filled with water. This is inserted into the wound of the dog and renders him quite free from danger. It is made by a chemist in Paris, and can be bought through Maw, Son & Company, Aldergate street, London.
Here is a sensible article on hydrophobia published in *Man's Best Friend*, being an interview with John H. Haines, of New York City, the President of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, a man who had considerable experience.
"Hydrophobia is one of the rarest of diseases, and it is the height of folly to imagine that every dog that happens to suffer intensely from the heat is either mad or in danger of going mad. A mad policeman is every bit as dangerous as a mad dog, probably in the past quite as many of the former as of the latter have been mad."
Mr. Haines quotes from high authorities when he says that in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the poor brute which is destroyed while supposedly in this throes of suffering is actually suffering from some other disease. He says that a person bitten by an animal under such circumstances is absolutely in no danger of serious results unless he permits himself to become a victim of his own disease. In fact, he says that there are more cases of death from hydrophobia reported from time to time than are wrongly diagnosed, and that, as a rule, they result simply from worry. The weather has nothing to do with the case, although no doubt dogs are less liable to sickness in cold weather than in hot weather. There are many cases where people have been bitten by dogs because they were afraid of them or because they did not understand or ignore their owners as to the weather conditions.
"A dog that has been properly fed and is being so fed, will suffer much less discomfort than another which has been starved. A dog that is overweight, far more liable to escape illness than the fat, badly-conditioned animal that is quite "above himself," and ready to go wrong at any time.
"The dog-bite is one of those heated topics in July and August, during which dogs are supposed to be peculiarly liable to rabies, or canine madness. That is one answer, but there is a better. There are no dog days, because there is no time of the year when dogs are especially liable to rabies. There are no mere cases of rabies among dogs; there are only occasional cases of canine madness. When you hear a cry of "Mad Dog!" the chances are many thousands to one that the dog is not mad. When you read in the papers of someone being bitten by a mad dog the chances are thousands to one
| excellent opportunities for its spread as well as being an insult to decency. |
| It is the duty of men who keep dogs to have some knowledge of their nature, |
| and the law should punish the ignorance or carelessness that causes an offense and a danger |
| to themselves and others. |
| "Unfortunately no cures are yet known; such things as the Birling and Webb's cures, |
| and other pretended family secrets may be swept aside. |
| Medical men have tried every conceivable drug, |
| and a few years ago it was thought that a specific could be found. |
| The dog is a very curious animal, |
| and he will try anything. |
| He will eat his own droppings, |
| and even his own excrement, |
| just as hard drowning in Hogg's Cray, |
| a pool in the Severn, |
| was at one time believed in. |
| "Medical measures are alone to be relied on, |
| and the very old one of the Greeks, |
| sucking the part, |
| is excellent, |
| and a small instrument has been invented which can be easily used; |
| it is like a old-fashioned breast exhauster, |
| with the bell-shaped head and long tube, |
| but with a round bell half way up the tube as well, |
| which is filled with water. |
| This is inserted into the wound of the dog |
| and renders him quite free from danger. |
| It is made by a chemist in Paris, |
| and can be bought through Maw, |
| Son & Company, |
| Aldergate street, |
| London. |
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It is not true. A person bitten by a mad dog is not doomed to die a fearful death by hydrophobia. Not at all, for hydrophobia in a human being is much more rare than rabies in a dog. Expert physicians who have given special attention to the subject are convinced that hydrophobia is never caused by the bite of a dog, but only by the injection of some poison into the body through an unbounded drain. Don't take this for granted, but remember these facts:
"First, That there are more than a million chances to one that any dog which is supposed to be mad is not mad at all; second, that, in all probability, any dog by which a person may happen to be bitten is not mad; and third, that even if a person is bitten by a mad dog he is really mad, and that his condition will not vary greatly."
"If you will read the following article you will probably find them to be true statements about the popular fancies with which persons are misled. It is sup- posed that a mad dog dreads water. It is not so. The mad dog is very likely to plunge his head to the eyes in water, though he cannot swallow it, and lags it with difficulty. It is supposed that a mad dog runs about with evidence of intense ex- tremity, and that he attacks everything in his path. This is not so. He runs away from gallopes; he is always alone, usually in a strange place, where he jumps along slowly. If he is approached by a dog or man he shows no signs of excitement, but when they leave him he goes on as usual. He does not attack anything that moves. He does not bark, whips, yelpes or growls, that dog is not mad. The only sound a mad dog gives is known jo emit a horse hoarse, and that but seldom. Even blows will not extort an outcry from a mad dog. Therefore, if any dog, under any circumstances, uttera cry or show any sign of excitement, it must be assumed that the dog is mad. It has been said that the mad dog froths at the mouth. It is not so. If a dog's jaws are covered with flecked with white froth, that dog is not mad. The sorest of all signs that a dog is mad is a thick andropy brown mucous clogging his lips, nose and mouth. When eating food he chews it up quickly and without mastication. If your dog bit the other way by any other dog, watch him carefully. If he is infected by rabies you will dis- cover signs of it promptly in six to ten days. Then he will be restless, often jumping about like a madman, and trying to bite anything that comes near him. He will turn aside to side and, constantly licking or scratching some part of his head, limbs or body. He will be irritable and inclined to dash at other animals, and he will some- times snap at objects which he imagines to be mad men. He will be restlessly moving about his jaws and throat, and he will vainly endeavor to rid himself of a thick,ropy, mucous discharge from his mouth and throat. If he can, he will probably run away from you as fast as possible. If you do not chase him away from the country, meditating with neither man nor beast unless they approach him, and then giving a single snap. The only exception to this behavior occurs in ferocious dogs, which, during the earlier stage of excitement, may attack any living object within reach of their teeth. "The following article was written by Mrs Sarah C Bolton, the emi- nent authoress who has written many books on animals, and who is a great friend of dogs, is clearly entitled to space in this book. Mrs Bolton's last book,"Oun Dovrers Fawne", the Dog should be read by every dog lover. It is published by L C Page & Co., Boston Mass. Send for it."
"Almost weekly or monthly in summer we have a 'mad dog scare'. Some dog
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has been throbbing at the mouth, which is never a sign of rabies, but of sickness or a fit; is chased by a crowd and after crawling under some porch or shed for protection, is killed by the random and numerous shots of some policeman.
rabies is a disease of man, and experienced physicians know that it is a very little danger from the bite of a dog. In this connexion as a dozen men if they have ever been bitten by a dog and probably more than half will say yes, in boyhood or later in life, with no real results whatever.
The following passage from the Englishman says: "All my life I have been among dogs. I have written five books on them. I have handled as many as 30,000 dogs a year. I have been bitten very often, and can no more for a bite than I do for a shot in the pit; yet I have never seen a case of rabies, and I do not believe such exists."
"Surgeon General Thornton says: 'I have served in India for thirty three years, and was for many years in medical charge of a large Indian district, with a population of 500,000 souls. During this time I have had 17 cases of rabies, all of which occurred in the last two years. The cases were all annuallly were under my superintendence yet, although dog bites were frequent, I never met a single case of hydrophobia in a native Indian, and I believe that the expression 'dog bite' in the language of India is similar to what we call rabies.'
"Dr. Stockwell, celebrated authority on dogs, says: "Distemper, toothache, earache, epilepsy and the whole class of nervous diseases to which dogs are subject are constantly taken for rabies. Personally, after more than thirty years' experience with dogs, I have never seen one case of rabies in any dog. I have yet to meet with a genuine case of rabies in the dog, and of some scores of so-called rabid dogs submitted to me for inspection I have found one and all to be suffering from other and comparatively innocent diseases."
"The late Professor Peter, in his book on the History of Medicine at the University of Pennsylvania, says: "After 16 years of investigation he has failed to find a single case of hydrophobia "that can be conclusively proved to have received the bite of a dog."
Dr. Dulles says in regard to the treatment of a dog bite: "I am strongly opposed to the practice of cauterizing with silver nitrate. I have seen and treated very many dog bites, and have not used lunar caustic for 13 years, and no person who has been bitten by a dog has suffered from it since then. The treatment by me is less than that of those treated in Pasteur institutes. My treatment is simply thorough surgical cleaning and the application of a simple anti- septic dressing for a few days, with the positive assurance that there will be no danger to any diseased animal."
Dr. Irving C. Rose says in a paper read before the American Neurological Association, Philadelphia, June 3, 1895: "As Asia Minor and in Constantinople, the horse-bite disease was known long before the discovery of Pasteur's method; an ence anione in Washington tells me that he has never known of the disease in Japan, and that in Korea, with more dogs than any other country, such a thing as hydrophobia is unheard of." In London, with its five and one-half million inhabi-
tants (which number is increasing every day), there are only 267 cases reported.
Dr. Dulles finds from statistics gathered in the United States, that there is only one hydrophobia case to four million inhabitants. Of 267 persons in the U.S., 266 were bitten by dogs; 1 was bitten by cats; 1 was bitten by horses; 1 was bitten by bats; as few come into India, rather than the Pasteur system, with its great expense and doubtful results. Professor Peter, the able editor of the French Medical Journal, says: "M. Pasteur does not cure hydrophobia--he gives it!" A physician describes the illness thus:
![]() A black-and-white illustration showing a man holding up his arm with an injured hand.
The man's arm is bandaged with white cloth strips. He appears to be in pain or discomfort.
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system as the "inoculating usually wholly uncontaminated human beings with the
most terrible virus known to science—to-wit, that of hydrophobia."
"The Pasteur advocate admits that only from 5 to 10 per cent of persons bitten by rabid animals ever have hydrophobia, with no treatment whatever. The writer of this article has been in the habit of giving all such cases medical treatment to be curatized.
"Even if there be such a disease as hydrophobia in man, which is probably a
blood-borne malady (a thorn of a rose), the prick of a pin, the scratch of a baby's
finger nail, the point of a head pencil stuck behind the ear, the cut on the neck of a
strip linen collar will have produced blood poisoning!, and if there be such a dis-
ease in rabbits, in which is probably distemper or encephalitis, it does not seem
to be found among the millions of dogs, cats, and other animals, which are the ones killed from the cruel suppression that they especially are dan-
gerous.
Matthew Wood, of Philadelphia, says: "At the Philadelphia dog pound,
where, on an average, over 6000 vagrant dogs are taken up annually, and where the catchers and helpers are frequently bitten, not one case of hydrophobia has
occurred during its entire history of 25 years, in which time 15000 dogs have
been taken up."
"At the dog shelter in New York City the Superintendent told me he had been
bitten over a hundred times and paid no attention to it whatever. In killing 60,000
dogs at the New York City pound in one year, not one case of hydrophobia was found.
New York has not found one case of rabies. London, Eng., kills nearly the same number, and has not seen a case among its licensed dogs. Among the
thousands of dogs killed in London every year by licensed barker in Washington, D. C., last
year was not one case of hydrophobia. The dogs are well cared for by their good companions for their children, and do not lead to the workhouse or the jail.
They are the best guard for our houses where there are no police; indeed cheaper than any other animal. They are used for hunting and for hunting; for playing games and entertainments for children, and that is well; but their dogs give them more comfort, usually, than almost any other one thing, as boys and girls will universally testify.
"Rabid dogs who bite people will necessarily kill some. They are not long
lived at the best. They give us devotion, companionship, and ought to make us
kindler and more gentle, from their helplessness and dependence upon us. They are
good friends to children. They are always ready to play with them. Let us, a professed Christian city, be as humane as the unchristian Turk, or the worshipers of Buddha in India. Let us honor ourselves by doing jus-
tice to the speeches. Let the dogs live!
"The time between the biting of an animal by a mad dog and the showing signs
of hydrophobia is not less than nine days, but may be nine months. After
the minimum has passed rabid scratch-of-a-dog tooth upon another dog or upon a child con-
taining with it saliva or urine hydrophobia can appear as if it had been bitten by a mad dog.
"Hydrophobia can be prevented, and I will give what is known to be an infalli-
ble method of preventing it by heat if properly administered. A dose for a horse or cow
should be four times as much as for a person. It is not too late to give the medi-
cine any time before the spasm come on. The dose for a person is one and one-
half ounces of alumnum root bruised, put in a pint of new milk, reduced one-half by boiling; take all at once in the morning just after the afternoon, or at least
![]() A page from a book titled "HYDROPHOBIA." The text discusses hydrophobia and its prevention.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
a very light diet until several hours are passed. The second dose same as first, except take two ounces of the root. The third same as the second. Three does all that are needed and there need be no fear, as I know from my own experi-
ences with the disease, that it will not be fatal to any dog who has been given
guesswork. The persons alluded to had been bitten by their own dogs, which were then tied up to see if they were really mad. They proved to be mad and the rem-
edies were administered. A case was reported to me where a dog was bitten for over thirty days and never knew it to fall when properly administered. He related a case where a number of cows were bitten, and penned half in one pen
and half in another; to half the remedy was given and were saved. The other half
died.
Let us not become insane on the hydrophobia question. Let the dogs have plenty of water, don't tie them up in hot weather, and don't make the poor animals chase for miles after a bicycle, carriage or electric car on a hot and dusty road. The
most dangerous thing about hydrophobia is the bite itself. It is the sight of a dog, in the last stages of exhaustion, struggling to keep up with some vehicle upon which his selfish master is taking his ease, unimpaired of its mind.
The following article was written by D.E. BALDWIN, D.V.M., Chief of the Bureau
of Animal Industry, in the Yearbook of the Department of Agriculture, issued at
Washington, D.C., and as will be seen, he is a firm believer in rabies. I reproduce it as follows:
This is the concluding speech to the jury by the "Prosecuting Attorney," whose duty it is to always find the prisoner guilty:
"Your Honor, I am sure that you would expect from serious diseases of
the central organs of the nervous system: First, irritation; second, paralysis and
death. The rabies virus appears to have little effect upon the system until it reaches the brain and spinal cord. There it multiplies, sets up irritation,
and finally causes death."
Rabies is generally divided into two forms: First, furious rabies; second,
dumb rabies. In the former the animal is irritable, aggressive, and bites nearly
every object which comes within its reach. It attacks man with great rapidity,
produces an immediate appearance of symptoms, and being unable to bite the
animal remains more quiet and tranquil. Essentially the two forms of the disease are the same, but owing to the parts of the brain attacked and the acuteness of the
attacks produced by each form there is a difference between them.
The salient feature in a case of dumb rabies is such as dangerous and virulent as that
from a case of furious rabies. The dogs with dumb rabies are less dangerous im-
munity because they are unable to bite and thus retain their saliva into a wound.
The狂犬病 (rabies) is usually characterized by three types: furious rabies,
always represent two distinct types of disease, and that one may at a glance classify
every case as belonging to one or the other of these types. Quite the contrary. The
type of attack varying according to whether it is furious or dumb rabies.
In fact, almost every case of furious rabies sooner or later change into the dumb form, that is, the final stage of rabies is almost invariably paralytic and the dumb form in its typical development occurs when this paralysis begins. The dog may remain in this condition for months or years may appear again, however, until
the second, third, or some subsequent day.
Again, a dog does not necessarily lie everything about it even though it has
rabies and its jaws are not paralyzed. It may be comatose and furious all of the time, or only a part of the time, or not at all. There is no disease in which the
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symptoms vary more than in rabies of the dog, and it is, consequently, impossible in any description of moderate length to give an idea of the different forms under which it may appear.
FURIOUS RABIES.
"Premising has well said that it is a great and dangerous error to suppose that the disease commences with signs of raging madness, and that the earliest phase of the malady is ushered in with such symptoms. The symptoms appear very gradually, and at first there is only the slightest evidence of brain disease. The animal's habits and behavior are changed. It may be more restless and affectionate towards its young, and may even attempt to nurse them. It may lick its hands or face, and apparently seeking for sympathy or sustenance. Such cases are, however, extremely dangerous, for the animal's tongue, moist with virulent saliva, coming in contact with a part where the skin is thin, abraded, or wounded, may cause a fatal inflammation. The smallest abrasion may be, as Bouley has impressively said, a door opened to death; and such a death! The instances in which hydrophobia has developed from this cause are numerous. The animal may die within a few hours after this his kiss of affection, which carries with it not only death, but sufferings which are far more to be dreaded than the fatal termination.
"In most cases dogs first become dull, gloomy, morose, treating, seeking soli-
tude, and finally becoming so unmanageable as to require lying under pieces of furniture. But in this retirement they can not rest; they are uneasy and agitated; they lie down and assume the attitude of repose, but in a few minutes are up again, walking hither and thither. They are "frightened dogs." Occasionally this condition passes off for a time, and the animal becomes more docile and affec-
tionate, often so sinks into a sulken gloominess from which even its master's voice rouses it but temporarily. It becomes more and more desperate in its attempts to escape from its confinement. It scratches itself with its teeth,
scratching, tumbling and tearing cushions, rugs, curtains, carpets and everything of that kind within its reach.
"At this point dogs may have sensations of the sense of the sight, hearing, and touch. They become unmanageable and lend them to think that they are being annoyed by something, or that some animal or person is endeavoring to injure them. They crouch, ready to spring upon an enemy; they rush forward against the wall; they jump about like madmen; howling and barking against a wall, as though they heard sounds beyond it.
"While at first the affected dog may not be disposed to bite, it becomes more dangerous as its hallucinations and delirium increase. The voice of the master is no longer sufficient to induce him to come near him. He will make friendly demonstrations, but an unexpected movement or touch may bring on another access and lead to a quick and unexpected bite.
"The dog then begins to gnaw at anything that comes within reach. If the place where the bite occurred is accessible the dog licks the scar, and later bites and tears the tissue. This tearing of the flesh is not always confined to the site of the inoculation, but certain regions of the body appear to lose their sensitiveness; for instance, the dog may bite at his own tail or at his own leg. The animal in this case bites into its own flesh with apparent pleasure and satisfaction.
Such animals take food until the disease is considerably advanced, if it is something which can be swallowed without mastication; otherwise it is dropped after remaining a short time in the mouth."
![]() A dog with a swollen neck.
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"Difficulty of swallowing is an early symptom, and frequently leads the unsuspecting owner to conclude that the animal has a bone in his throat. A dog which appears to have a bone in his throat is on general principles one of the most dangerous animals in the house, and should be immediately put down. On the other hand the symptoms which lead to this supposition may be due to partial paralysis caused by rabies, and the owner may be inoculated with the virulent substance before he can ascertain whether the dog's mouth is diseased or not, which has no existence but in his imagination.
"It is commonly believed that mad dogs have fear of water and are unable to drink, but there could be no greater mistake. In this respect they differ entirely from the ordinary dog, who will drink freely from any source, and continue to drink until paralysis has progressed so far that they are no longer able to swallow. The fact that a suspected dog is seen to drink or to wade into a stream is con-
sequently of no value whatever.
"When the furious symptoms come on, the dog leaves his home and goes upon a long chase, with no apparent object in view other than to be traveling onward. He trotts at a rapid pace, eye haggard, tail depressed, indifferent to his surround-
ings, and without any particular aim. He does not attack any object, nor does he apparently search for them, or even notice them if they remain quiet. Dogs in this condition may travel many miles, and finally drop from exhaustion and die.
Often after an absence of several days, the animal returns to their home and embarks upon a course of dust and blood; and presents a hideous form and miserable appearance. Those who have pity for such an animal and try to make it clean and comfortable, are in great danger of being bitten, for the disease has been known to spread from one animal to another by means of a treacherous bite. Doubtless the dog has no intention of injuring a friend, and would not do so did he not see that friend transformed by his dis-
ordered vision into some distorted and unrecognizable shape, which he thinks is about to attack him. The animal attacks all objects indiscriminately, inten-
tionally and deliberately inoculating his friends with his fatal virus, let us not forget that the inoculation is no less deadly because it is the result of the abnormal working of a nervous system which has become deranged. The
least provocation will set upon his master or mistress and inflict an injury, the only
result remains the same for the owner to take due precautions, to prevent such an occurrence.
"An insane animal, instead of being allowed to escape, is kept confined, the parox-
yms of fury are seen to occur intermittently, or in the absence of provocation,
they may be entirely wanting. If excited, it howls, rushes upon objects that are
threatened with it, or throws itself against the back of its cage and bites with great fury.
"At an death approaches, the animal becomes exhausted and scarcely able to stand up; it lies down on its side and dies within a few hours. Paralysis appears in the jaws or in the posterior extremities and extends rapidly to other parts of the body. The animal, being unable to stand, lies extended upon its side; the respiration becomes more and more difficult; there are periodic contractions of certain groups of muscles, complete prostration, and death.
"The ordinary course of the disease is four or five days; it may be as short as two or as long as ten days."
DUMB RABIES
"When this form of the disease is typical, it comes on with restlessness...
depression, a tendency to lick objects, and paralysis of the muscles which close the jaws. As a consequence of the paralysis, the lower jaw drops, the animal is unable to eat, and the mouth becomes dry, discolored, and covered with saliva. The mucous membrane of the mouth becomes dry, discolored, and covered with d rust. The animal remains quiet, does not respond to provocations, and appears to understand its helplessness. As Bouley has said, the animal can bite but cannot bite.
"When dumb rabies follows a period in which the animal has been affected with the furious form, the desire and tendency to bite may be retained even after the jaw is paralyzed."
The course of disease is short, usually occurring in from two to four days.
"The dumb form of rabies is very common, and many persons know it as 'dry,' but have no idea of its true nature."
Many of the common mistakes with reference to rabies arise from an imperfect knowledge of the symptoms. It is on this point that there is greatest need of educational work.
The dog is a most sensitive animal. When bitten by a dog who shows all the symptoms of illness; every sick dog should be a rule suspected; and particularly distrust a dog when it becomes dull, morose and seeks for solitude, which appears not to know where to rest, which is always on the move, prowling, making strange noises, and generally acting in a manner that is distinctly ill; while its comeliness is somber, and only assumes its usual animated expression by brief starts; bawns of the dog that seek and scampers incessantly, and exhibits aggressive movements against phantom; and finally, beware, above all, of the dog which will become too fond of you, and is continually endeavoring to lick the hands or face."
THE PERIOD OF INCUBATION OF RABIES
The period of incubation of a contagious disease is the time which elapses between the inoculation or exposure and the appearance of the first symptoms. With rabies this period varies remarkably. It may be as short as seven days or as long as three months. In some cases it has been reported on good authority that a year, or even fourteen months, elapsed between the time the animal was bitten and the time when the disease manifested itself.
The incubation period is usually shorter than one month.
During the greater part of the period of incubation the infected animal is healthy, and would not cause disease in any animal or person which it bites. The saliva may become virulent, however, two or three days before the appearance of the symptoms. This fact indicates that during this period of latent contagion has contaminated the saliva is, of course, liable to contract the disease.
There is a very erroneous and rather stupid belief, quite common, to the effect that dogs which have been bitten by a rabid dog will themselves contract rabies if bitten will contract hydrophobia. This fallacy may have arisen from some instance in which a person had been bitten within a few days of the appearance of the symptoms of disease in the dog, and when the saliva was already virulent. However, it must be remembered that dogs do not contract rabies until they get sick when he does not have it or before he has himself contracted it. If therefore, a dog does not show symptoms of illness within a week from the time the bite is inflicted there is no danger of the person contracting the disease.
The only exception to this rule is that in very doubtful cases in which in extremely rare instances a dog may have rabies and recover from it without
showing characteristic symptoms. A very few cases of this kind have been observed among dogs artificially incubated, but it has not yet been shown that tauris salvia became virulent, or that similar cases occur under natural conditions. The fact remains, however, that a person is no longer of contracting rabies because a healthy dog has bitten him, which dog is afterward incubated with rabies."
A BEAUTIFUL, SAD PEN PICTURE.
A GEM.
FROM THE LIFE OF A TRAINER.
"The old pipe is lighted again, the fire rekindled, and then the scene changes. He is watching one of his derby prospects, dying of dement. It is well in the night; the dog's lungs are gone and the trainer knows the animal cannot live till morning. Yet there he sits, and occasionally gives a dose of opium to the poor creature. In the morning he will find him dead. Anyway, he will sit there and see the end, for many fond hopes will be buried tomorrow, with the lank, faintly breathing figure lying there, wrapped in an old hunting coat. By day by the form stirs, the coat is thrown off and the dog lies on the floor. The trainer goes to feed him, and sees him lying on the old trainer's knee. At last the dog knows he is dying and comes to his master for help. He looks up anxiously, longingly, hopefully. In his heart the master knows he is dying too; still he does not give up hope. His power is omnipotent. All my life I have loved and obeyed you and only heaven I have ever known or will ever know has come through you. Won't you save me now?"
The dog's tears are tears in the old master's eyes and a catch in his voice as he replies, "What doest thou matter? He is alone with the night and none to see or to hear. He pats the puppy's head and sorrowfully says: 'I would save you, old boy.' If I could! Poor old chap! You cannot understand--but I would save you if I could!" The dog understands and is resigned. He wags his tail, a last faint ascent, the appeal in his eyes fades--they are glazing; he weaves gently back and forth over the floor until he lies down on his side. "Good-bye--old man, good-bye," he says. The head straightens back and all is over.
In the morning, down under the old oak in the playground, there is a fresh mound, and under it, wrapped in his master's old hunting coat and gently covered with leaves, lies a little child. The sun rises high in the sky; by the little mound is now and then thoughtfully rounded up until it looks like the grave of a little child."---American Field.
CHILDREN'S PET.--"Nothing in the world is more natural than the child's desire for pets. There are few children who do not early manifest a strong inclination for something to love, and this imperative desire, if fostered, becomes a powerful agency for the child's growth of character. Every little girl loves her doll; but often she becomes disaffiliated and longs for something alive, something
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CHILDREN'S PETS.
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which will return her caresses. A mother who has a growing family must do something to keep the little hands and minds busy, and at the same time out of mischief. Perhaps the mother is very busy, or if she gives the matter any thought, she may find that she has no time to attend to it herself. There are great care, rabbits destructive, and white rats dirty. She may wonder why the children do not love their home and how it is they are always teasing to visit that house where the children have pets of various kinds, a perfect menace! And so the question arises: "Why don't we give them pets?" The child's selfish case and consult their convenience, without a thought of finding their highest enjoyment in the true development of their children.
Our first plea in favor of children owning pets is the desire for personal possession. It is a pleasure to own things which belong exclusively to oneself, and to see that all belongs exclusively to himself and be cared for by him. This care, this responsibility, can not fail to make a boy more manly and a girl more womanly. The thought for food, clothing, shelter, and other necessities of life is a lesson which must tender in the child's nature. Show us a boy or a girl that is cruel or brutal to animals and we will show you a child sure to come to some bad end; but the child who early learns kindness and gentleness to the brute creation will also learn to be kinder to his fellow men.
"Children are, as a rule, fond of animals, and by no means can kindness so thoroughly inculcated in them as by the one of pets."
"People who do not love animals have something seriously wrong with their conduct. They are either too much given to vanity, or they are guilty of religion whose dog and cat are not the better for it." A man who kicks his dog and beats his horse will abuse his w.c. and children. When you encourage a child in the care and gentle treatment of all creatures, you influence him to become a fine gentleman. He will grow up to be a man of good character, a man who lives in life and become a tender father and worthy citizen. Every child should know at an early age that sincere kindness in all relations of life is highest Christiani- ty. He should know that he is responsible for the welfare of all living things intelligent, so faithful that they arc ready to sacrifice their lives for those they love.
Once kind to animals always kind, and the man or woman whose heart is touched by the dumb look of dependence or unselfish interest in brute nature cannot be wholly bad though public sentiment may make he or she a criminal. "A man who loves animals loves mankind." The man who does not love his own is he who does not love others. Those who do not love animals do not love mankind. They are moreover dumb and helpless and should appeal to every noble hearted person for protection. The curse of the world is heartlessness, selfishness and cruelty.
All animals are God's object-lessons, and the only object-lesson in Nature into which he has breathed the breath of life.
Sir Walter Scott's eulogy: "The Almighty, Who gave the dog to be the companion of man, has given the cat to be his friend; but he has made man incapable and incapable of deceit. He forgets neither friend nor foe, remembers with acumenry both benefit and injury, and hath a share of man's intelligence but no share of man's falsehood. Not only have poets honoured and glorified the courage, patience, fidelity, constancy, self-sacrifice, humility and affection. There is also positive proof that in the Pharaonic age nearly sixty centuries ago, dogs were the companions and friends of kings, and each had a name of its own, and this at a period when only those whose per- sonality was recognized were ever given a name."
USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS
Buying Dogs.—In buying a dog, first be sure that you are dealing with some recognized breeder who will not send a dog C. O. D., and you will always get a dog just as represented. No legitimate breeder or dealer can afford to act any way but honestly, and he will give you full information about his dogs, and the American Kennel Club, and for wrong doing he would be punished and dis-
qualified, which means that he could not exhibit any of his dogs at any show held under their rules, nor could he register any of his dogs in their stud book. If you are not satisfied with your purchase, return the dog immediately and sending your money on in advance, if you are sure first that you are dealing with a breeder of note and reputation, as you are protected by the American Kennel Club of New York.
Very few legitimate breeders will ship a dog C. O. D. for many good and suffi-
cient reasons. It is harder on the dog, as coming cold, he necessarily has to go through a lot of rest tape banequits, and this delays a h delivery in most cases,
including the time spent in getting the dog ready for shipment, packing him up
and fix wax bills, books, etc. and generally then delivered after all this delay by
another wagon.
Some legitimate breeders to buy from and write him for a full description in detail as to all points of the dog and its price, then send him a money order or draft for the dog with orders to ship on the guarantee that the dog is to be exactly as described and represented. Now, when you get him—after he is at home, receiving it from the dealer, you will find that he is exactly as described in your description you have had, and my word for it your dog will fit the bill.
If dissatisfied for any cause don't be hasty about returning him, but wait a day or two before making up your mind. Write to the dealer immediately stating your dissatisfaction and then write to the dealer, and he can; and will, no doubt, straighten the matter up so that you are satisfied. Unless the buyer is a judge of the breed ordered (which the seller is), it might happen that a good or even a better specimen had been sent instead of one ordered. The dealer must explain why he sent such a dog according to his erroneous ideas, or, it didn't "look like Mr. Seound-Saw's dog," etc.
and here is the chance for the seller to explain and put you right, so that what con-
stitutes a good and correct specimen, which is really what you want, only you don't know it until now. In this way we hope to prevent many people from going to shows are educating people on dogs, and a good many could now fairly judge the dog they had ordered.
Some dealers are operators to buy anything, and here I want to say a few words as to buying a dog from bird stores. They are, as a rule, a much better place to buy a dog—a much better place to buy a bird or bird seed.
Being only dealers and only having a scant general idea of dogs, the dealer may be tempted to sell you any old dog he has got at hand. A dog simply because the dealer fooled Ain when he bought the dog to sell again. This is often the case in a bird store buying a litter of puppies. They look cute as puppies, but often turn out not quite what was given them. Some of these have been imported from abroad and was bred in some outside dog of another breed or even some swan sacks (hacks) in a basket and sells them for almost any price to the bird store. He puts them
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in his winod at a price lower than the genuine article could be sold for; people see them—they look cute—you buy one, thinking you got a great bargain. You raise this puppy and, of course, become attached to it, but gradually it develops into a very expensive pet. The dog is a very expensive pet because your friends visit you. "Still is never sold for the price of a dog." All fine dogs and animals cost more because they are harder to raise. Always will be paying a fair price for a good one. Buy of legitimate breeders and you'll get the worth of
RECEIVING DOGS--If you buy a dog that comes to you by express and has had a long trip, having left its home to come to a new one among strangers, and he has been fed on the road, and has been kept in a box, then don't look him over. I don't conclude that the dog is not as he was reported, but I conclude that you have been fooled, but speak to him kindly, pet him, and it won't be long till he will see that he has found a friend in his new master, and while, no doubt, he may not be quite as good as he was before, yet he will be better than silently grievous for them, yet he will quickly learn to love the new master, and show by his actions how happy he is in his new home. When thus at his ease and free from the anxiety of the trip, he will act and look well.
H. M. HENRY
When the dog comes out of his crate, unless he has a collar on and you at first hold him by this or his chain, the best plan is to take him out of the box in a yard or room, for he might be badly frightened under the circumstances and get away from you. The first thing that his collar is tight enough, so that he cannot bite off any part of himself. He must be kept in a room until he is quiet and comfortable. Very many dogs I receive for sale have a collar on so loose that, if from fright or any undue cause, they could easily slip it off and escape. Don't have it too tight or too loose. A collar which fits snugly around the neck is right—and safe. While for many years I have been a professional handler of dogs at shows showing, having at some shows as many as seventy dogs of all breeds to receive and care for during the week, and the greater part of them being in crates, I have never had any accident with any dog from any cause, and not a dog in the many I have thus handled for others but was just as good a friend of mine, and quickly, too, as were my own favorites that I had brought from other places.
After receiving a dog, give him a chance in the yard to attend to nature's calls, which he will very likely want to do, and you watch, to see the condition of his bowels. He may be either constipated or vice versa, either due to having "had" or "not had" enough food recently. If he is constipated put him in an empty tin in a box on a tray, and herein lies the greatest danger of long trips by express when they do not empty in box, the very natural result being either infirmity or death. If he is constipated give him plenty of water and food until he feels better. If he is "empty" feed him freely and very thin, attend to this as treated under its headling, but if after two days he does not improve give him a little more food until he feels fit the case. A puppy will often stand a long trip (if fed and watered en route) better than an adult dog, because the puppies will attend to nature's calls en route, which is all the better even if it arrives sooner from so doing—almost certain to be so continued in a box.
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying down in an empty tin on a tray.
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RECEIVING PUPPIES.--Many people who buy puppies do not give them proper care on their arrival in the new home. In order to insure success with a puppy, take it carefully from the crate in which it is received, making as little noise as possible, and place it in a quiet room where it can rest undisturbed. Do not call its name by its name, if it has any, which fact should always be discontinued before receipt of the puppy from the seller, if possible. After removal from the crate, be sureful that the puppy does not get frightened and run off and hide. In order to prevent this, keep the puppy in a quiet room until it becomes accustomed to its new surroundings. Keep in mind that the journey, however short, has had the tendency to frighten and make nervous any young dog.
The first thing to do with a puppy is to give it some freedom and an outing in an enclosure, for sufficient length of time for it to attend to nature's calls, give it a bowl of boiled milk and bread broken up, or a soft-baked egg or two. Feed light for a few days, at morning, noon and night. If kept out of draughts and petted, the puppy will soon become accustomed to its new surroundings. When you have made it feel at home by kindness and attention the better it will thrive and grow, and the less will it feel the shock of the change to its new quarters.
Remember that while it may, and probably will, be sickly at first, it may reach you solid and healthy in a few weeks. This is because you must be considered, and you remember that a bath, if only a sponging off, is in winter, and on their very thorough drying, will soon very much improve its appearance. Before you buy a puppy, examine it carefully for worms. If you find one or more worms in your puppy, successfully treated for worms and if not, attend to this promptly--(See Worms). Very few breeders, however, nowadays, but do treat all their puppies for worms before selling or shipping--which they should do. The dog you receive may have worms when you buy him; he may have been ill; he may have been ill (he might do the same under the same circumstances), but put up with this--the dog is worth all the trouble or interruption it might cause you--and kindness will soon cure it of this.
FEMALE AS PET.--In selecting a dog for a pet, the erroneous idea seems to prevail that a female is preferable to a male. This is not true. A female makes a mistake if she has only one dog; a female is preferable in many respects. In the first place, a female is more affectionate, or shows it more than a male; is cleaner about the house, more obedient, and less liable to run away. She also has fewer litters than males; but this only happens once in every five or seven months, and then till again in season you have no trouble. A male dog is always "in season" and should there be any difficulty with his owner he will find it out, and unless chained up or gates of your yard watched nearly all day long you will never find out what he discovered long before you did. Perhaps he'll find his way home again, but the chances are much against it, and you'll now have the chance of having him killed by your dog.
Perhaps you'll get his back, and perhaps won't. If so, when your female comes in season, you don't care to have her around; you send her to some kennel to board for a couple of weeks (as many do with me), and thus save yourself trouble. But if you want her to stay with you all the time, she must be allowed to have any dogs at all. When a female first shows signs of if you will make note of the first day, you'll discover a bleeding, which will continue for eight to ten days, a swelling of the vagina with it. This bleeding and swelling will begin to subside at from ten to twelve days; and then is when she is ready for
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breeding. You can't watch her too closely, for they are very cute and cunning, at such times, and will often fool you by slipping out, and then when ready, the first dog they meet is the favored one. Such mistakes as this, due to carelessness, is what produces so many curies that we see on the streets of every town or city. The dog is a very intelligent animal, and should be treated as such. The cur may be as smart and as true and faithful as the pure bred one, but there should be no curry, and would not be if people were more careful at such times.
PUTTING DOGS TO DEATH.--Don't run for a policeman, who generally has to empty his revolver before he happens to put a ball in the right spot, but get a little help from your own brain. A dog is a living being, and therefore a necessary, which seldom ever is the case. I consider chloroform as painless as any method of killing. An ounce of chloroform is enough for any dog. Get some cotton, place it in a cloth, hold this in your right hand and when ready, have some one pour the chloroform into the cloth. Then take the dog's head between your hands and using as an outside covering of head and nose to prevent any air getting to the dog. Hold it tightly to his nose so no air gets to him and in a minute the dog will be dead. When dog is small, is to lay him on a table, on his side, before you begin operation.
In case your female should get out, and served by some dog on the street, and you desire to get rid of the puppies, do so as soon as they are born. Drown- ing is then the best way to do it. Take one pot at a time and hold it in a pair of tongs over a fire until it is hot enough to boil water. Then put a little water or weight or stone on top of a cover that will hold it down to the water. To guard against danger of a caked breast in the mother, it may be advisable to allow one to live and nurse for a week; harder on the pup to be then drowned, however.
Another instant death is a teaspoonful of Scheele's Prussic Acid for matured dogs. In giving it hold mouth open and upwards pouring the liquid well back on the throat. This will cause instant death. It is dangerous to give this drug as it would be dangerous to human life if spilled over a cut or wound.
SHIPPING DOGS by Easys.--This is a very important matter, and the great est precautions must be taken and care exercised unless you are so heartless as to not care how much cruelty and hardship the dog endures, especially on a trip of over twelve hours unless properly crated, watered and fed; and a day and night rest allowed during that time. If you do not give these things you will lose four hours they can do without, and no harm, but in case of a young puppy, it must have food at least twice a day even if only a day or night trip. This you cannot afford to neglect. If you want to ship dogs by express mail send proper in- stance request on box: "PLEASE FLY MONDAY AND NIGHT--Fowl in Box." As in an adult dog, and trip is a day and night only, then drop a big bone or two in box for it to gnaw on, or a few dog cakes. Fasten tin pan or cup inside in one corner of box with string or rope. Keep them warm by putting them under blankets or "Ovens," especially if in hot weather. Now, as to longer trips than twenty-four hours, extra attention will be given: My plan is as follows: I first go to my express agent, have him put up two boxes for me each containing ten dogs; I then go myself with ten dogs up to be two days or longer; I get him to grade or ahead at least twenty-four hours to the agents at any stations where dog has a "lay over" of an hour or longer, asking this agent to ferry out taking the dog on chains to attend to nature's calls, also to feed and water. I find no difficulty in getting
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such favors shown by asking my agent, and you can no doubt do the same from your agent, whom you probably know or he knows you. To have dog taken out you must have a door so they can be as requested to go in and out, as many dogs are now kept in boxes which are attached to his house and hard to try. The greatest danger of these long trips are from infestation of the kidneys or bowels, due to no enjolping, and this almost always the result if a dog "holds its head up" and does not drink enough water. This is the most dangerous part of the box, which must be made right. If dog is to go in fall or winter, or any season subject to quick changes, unless you have a "Backers" crate, which are the very best of all, then fix your box as follows:
Make box large enough to hold dog comfortably, as long as his body and head and just wide enough so he can turn around by bending his body, and he will be comfortable, as a box too large is just as bad. Make it open on the sides so that dog can see outside, and so that he can look down into it. Keep the dog when lying down in not exposed to draughts, as they are often kept outside in a depot open at end, on a truck, and thus right is a draft, and having come from a warm car, the natural result would be a cold or perhaps pneumonia.
I have seen dogs die from being put in boxes without keeping them in where warm at any lay over," and this you can have done also.
Give him plenty of straw in his box if in winter. Make box on top like the roof of a house with a window so that dog can see outside. If snow falls sometimes, perhaps if box was square, by express messenger putting him in corner and another box or trunk on top and sides of his box, thus depriving him of air. Make box so there is no danger of this happening. Failing by nothing inside box, let dog have some straw in bottom of box. Let him have some water in another tin cup and fasten this one on outside of his box by a string or wire, so that there is no excuse for the express messenger not doing what all shippers pay express companies double rates for driving-caring for dog en route. Express man should take care of this matter himself. When he comes back to the next coach for his drink) and this tin cup tied on outside and a written request tucked on box. "Please water off," leaves it easy for him to bring it to the next coach. I have had several times you ever notice how often traveling in hot weather pos will visit the water cooler.
NEVER START A DOG ON A FULL BREATH: the motion of the car would very likely make him sick and cause him to throw up what he had eaten, solting his box and himself as well.
If you wish to ship dog give him a fair meal that afternoon, and an hour before he is to leave take him out for a walk of half dozen blocks or more, and he will be sure to attend to nature's calls. If you start dog on a rough road or rough track he will not be able to keep up with you until he leaves. Then offer him a drink before he starts and thus he leaves with empty stomach and will have a much more comfortable trip than if he started after having had a full meal. Many house-broken dogs will "hold in" and will not eat anything until they get home. This is very dangerous to their stomachs or bowels or kidneys. Better for the dog it if did break the rule for this time. Pup- ples of course are not so systematic and generally get through better if suitably crated.
Now make a prominent sign like this and tack it on top of box:
AN "OPEN LETTER" FROM A DOG.
Mr. Messengers--My name is . . . . . . . I am on a hard long trip, and can
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only get through with your assistance and kind care, for which I will thank you in my way. I WILL NOT BIKE YOU! confinement in this box is bad enough——but I do see a DREDGE and a bite to eat.
So, if you have any dog, I am sorry to say, afraid of dogs, but by furnishing them the name of dog, when they speak to him he—the dog—will think he has found a friend, probably was his tail and give an assurance by his looks to the messenger that he is all right, and thus secure better care and some kind of a chance at life.
Always crate a dog, never ship him on chain for several good reasons.
Crateing is safer, cleaner, and more comfortable for the dog. On chain he takes too much exercise and is liable to get into mischief. Out of the car door open in a crowded car or trunk or box might fall out and injure the dog. The owner of the company's charge for any dog on chain not less than a hundred pounds, even if it was only a twenty-pound dog.
Also, if you want to go to the mail or wire the party who is to get the dog, so that he may know when to look for him and meet the dog at depot, thus shortening his trip a bit and avoiding the delay caused by the dog being taken first to the post office, leaving these awhile and then drove around to the house he is directed to.
Don't ship a 3x dog in a 2x crate. You like to stretch yourself sometimes. Neither should you ship it in a box far too large. A dog in such a box will often receive severe injuries from the sides of the box. If you have a 2x crate, if you do, don't use it. The other fellow will have to pay useless express charges.
DOGS CHAINED UP—I do not believe in chaining dogs up in a yard, but if you want to keep them in one place during the day, you must keep them chained during the day. To keep a dog chained constantly day and night is cruel and inhuman, and will make any dog cross. Dogs are not born cross—you never saw a cross puppy—and when you see a cross dog some human being—man, woman or child—is trying to make it cross, you know that it is cruel treatment. There are no cross dogs if people were not the cause of it by their ill treatment of the dog any more than there would be a bally horse only for men—fools and brute—people.
If you must chain the dog up during the day, then give him his liberty at night. It is not necessary to chain h.m up if you have a yard with a fence high enough and gate securely fastened. Many a bad boy will delight to tease your dog while he is chained up at night. If you have no yard at all, then put your dog where he can see what goes on outside. If you have no yard—and this teaching makes a cross dog—I don't blame the dog, but I do the boy.
A yard should be no yard fenced in and a large dog must keep it on chain part of the time, allow at least 20 feet of chain. Fancy the misery of a man full of life and energy trying to take exercise by pulling and straining against a chain three or four feet long. Yet this is the length which some otherwise humane people think is sufficient for their dogs in their own yard. The chain should be fastened to a stake about 18 feet from the kennel.
Should there be no enclosure for your dog to romp in and must therefore be tied up to prevent him from getting away? This is very dangerous. The proper method is to tie him firmly and still enable him to move about tolerably freely! Get a strong wire, ten to forty feet long, slip a ring on it, fasten wire at each end to stout stake, drive the stakes at full stretch of wire into ground to below the surface. Hook the dog's chain to ring running freely on the wire, and your dog can run up and down this course at will. By attaching such a wire to the side
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of a long wall or house, a runway can be provided in similar manner. The kennel can be placed a few feet beyond the end of long wire so that the dog can get to and into it without needing to be changed.
**YAKES FOR DOGS--If you have a dog you should also have a yard fenced in. No one living in a city should keep a dog unless they have the yard, except in a case where the dog is a pet and not a working animal. If you have a dog you must take your dog out for a walk night and morning. No dogs, even the smallest toy, can live right and be healthy if they live indoors and on carpets all their life. They must get their feet on mother earth and a chance at grass. A dog who lives in a city is like a man who lives in a prison, perhaps an elegant prison, but yet it is a prison and the dog is leading an unnatural life and a limited one. A friend of mine who is worth many thou-sands of dollars to my mind has a beautiful white poodle. This poodle has the most beautiful head and handsome limbs but to be fashionable and his place to look correspond with his fashionable neighbors, he has no fence around it. He owned a very fine St. Bernard and a few days ago the electric company came and took down his fence because they said that his dog would be living. Your neighbor may have a fine lawn--and no fence--and your dog has no right to trespass on his grounds and destroy his flowers. This neigh-bor may be one of those unfortunate persons who have something taking in him which makes him act like a madman (and I am not speaking of you), and your dog coming into his yard and committing a nuisance or damaging his flowers causes him some time "drop a button" where your dog gets it and it will be taken care of by the police. If your dog belongs to you, your be-to-be-liked neighbor (because he does not love dogs) would not have done so and your dog would still be living. If you have a fine lawn in front and must keep up the style of the neighborhood, then at least do the next best thing, which is to keep your dog away from your lawn. If you have better and safer than no yard at all and will do all right if large enough, but then take the dog out for a walk once a day at least, which will add to his health and make him happy, you will have rights over your house, but your yard has no right to become a nuisance to your neighbor, nor will any of your property be cared for on your own premises. The fence should be so high that there is no danger of the dog jumping it, and your gates should be made self-closing, so that when you go out you will leave the gate open, and in this way your dog will live and stay where he belongs and will not cause any trouble or trespass on get himself or his owner into trouble.
I am sorry to say that there are some people in this neighborhood who do not do their duty toward their neighbors and should you contemplate moving into another neighborhood, before you close the deal for the house first find out if your neighbors on both sides love dogs--if not, don't rent this house, but find out where you will have better neighbors who do love dogs, for these you can trust and depend upon. There are some people who are living beside people who do not love dogs--search them closely.
The only safe plan in such cases is to put up fences. Look at this piece of fixed meat or piece of sponge that had been dipped in grease which, if the dog picked up and swallowed, would cause a very painful death. Also, be very careful yourself and never throw a cork that may have grease or oil on it where your dog could get hold of it, for this would cause his death as well.
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Always have a collar on your dog, locked, and tight enough so that it can't be slipped over his head, and on it something reading like this:
ROVER,
OWNED BY JNO. SMITH, 220 MAIN ST., CINCINNATI.
So that if he does stray away the chances are more in his favor of being returned to you, for he may fall into the hands of a man who loves dogs, and therefore an honest man, who would return him to you.
Yard Kennels.--If you have a large dog and prefer him to sleep in your yard, provide a suitable and comfortable dog house for him, a shelter and proper pro- tection in wet and cool weather, properly ventilated at the top, so that he does not become overheated. The floor should be made of boards or shingles, or of wood so that it stands several inches off the ground, and make the floor double with tar paper between floors. Small wheels on it in place of feet are best, as this will allow the dog to move about freely. The walls should be of sufficient height so that you can place it in a part of the yard that will be dry. Watch out for dampness which causes rheumatism. Cellars or basements, unless you are certain they are not damp, are a dangerous place for a dog to sleep. As to bedding--in hot weather--a bed of straw or hay is good; but in cold weather, straw or hay is not good. Shavings are a good bedding for medium weather in spring and fall, as no dew can live in them. In winter straw is the best, and don't be stingy with it; give him plenty, so he can make a hole and cuddle up in it and keep warm. This should be done every night.
Dog Barking on Houseing.--Your dog has, however, no right to bark at night and annoy your neighbors--unless he is barking at some intruder and notifying you of danger. If he gets into the habit of barking at night he must be broken of this, which can be done, and in a night or two, Slip quickly behind the door with a stick or club and give him a sharp slap across the nose with a whipping for barking--call him and tell him he must keep quiet. He'll soon understand what you mean.
A dog has certain natural rights, among which are those of life liberty and the pursuit of happiness subject, however, as the rights of human beings are, to the exercise of liberty without derogation to the comfort of others.
Dog in Your House.--If you have only one or two dogs, your own house is none too good or suitable a place for them to sleep at night, and their access to the house during the day is all right, for a thoroughly well behaved dog is a most useful member of any family. But if you have more than one dog, or if any dog is liable to prove of great value or assistance in case of burglars or unwelcome visitors. This applies to the large breeds as well as toy dogs, for they want all to be watched. Give the alarm by prevent harm befalting their masters and property. All dogs are not alike in some respects; some are deaf or hear of living having been saved by the house dog.
If you have a toy dog that sleeps in the house, provide it a box or basket so that it can get out easily when necessary. Putting it to sleep on a chair or sofa does well enough in summer, but suppose you do this in winter, and you cover it up with a shawl and it goes to sleep--say in a warm room, this is all right; so far. Now suppose the fire goes out towards morning, your pet turns over and "locks the cover off" the room gets cold, and the result is that your
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Dog catches cold, which, if not attended to promptly, is liable to be a sick dog.
Provide a box or basket so that you can cover it over the top, allowing for air,
and he will be safer and warmer. Keep him warm at night, and have some tobacco
in his mouth, and will wait till he's let out into the yard in the mornning. Very few dogs will commit a nuisance in their sleeping box.
And again—suppose he is unlucky enough to get fles on him, and this often
happens, and you must take care of him. You must keep him warm, and it much
easier to rid him of them than if he had been sleeping on a sofa or loose in the
house, for you could take his bedding out and clean or burn it. To get rid of fleas is given under that heading.
**House-Breathing Puppies.—When you buy a puppy and call it home, don't
expect it to be house-breathing, but it may not be dispossessed. It's too young to
know how to breathe in and out, and you must give time to chance, and properly
educate it yourself. This can be done with every puppy, or grown dog either, but
you can't do it in a few hours, for it requires time and patience.
The puppy will learn to breathe in and out when it may be that it won—for
the house it has just left—but needs re-breathing to obtain extent for its new
home, which will then not be nearly so hard to accomplish.
Now, when your puppy makes a mistake, if it is old enough to punish,
catch it up by the collar and put it down on the floor, and say "Bad boy," or
"Wrong working" (for you wouldn't do course, put it out in the rain or snow).
Repeat this every time it does wrong, and it can soon be taught to be clean in its
habits. Never punish any puppy (or dog) except at the time of the wrongdoing.
If you do not correct the puppy at once, it will become bad habits. After
every time, it soon gets to understand that there is the place to attend to
nature's calls. Have patience, and it won't be very long till you have a well-
behaved dog. Some puppies are very difficult to train; they are too shy (too
shy), or they are shying, as in some cases it will roar the dog, and if so will have
a long time to get it over all. Most puppies at two months old will understand
that they have done wrong by the punishment. As it gets older make it a point
of duty for the puppy to go out every hour or so. This will give him a chance
to frequent yard opportunities during the day. Use judgement and forbearance,
as well, and reason with talk to—it they soon get to understand. If weather
is bad, at night or in the morning, for that time put it in the cellar or some cov-
ered place.
If you have a female and raise a litter of puppies at home, here is a good plan
that I follow in the kennel, and when I sell a puppy two to three months old, it is
sent back to me until I want another one. I have stalls made enclosed by a gate,
and the stall filled up for the bitch to whelp in. I have a galvanized iron pan fit
the other part of the stall, and this pan I cover over the bottom with sawdust
and watered down with urine from the bitch's litter. When she comes up after her puppies till they are four or five weeks old, and then they will
naturally and very quickly get into the habit of going into the sawdust when
they come out of their box. The example set by her goes on to use in will soon be
followed by its brothers and sisters. A dog's litter is worth more than a place.
You can follow this plan when your bitch has puppies by simply making
a low wooden box with a sheet of tin for a bottom to it, which will answer for one
litter all right enough, and if your bitch has twelve or ten, in your house, you
can fix up a little fence made out of sticks that will cost but a cent, and answer
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the purpose of keeping her and the puppies penned up. Puppies that I sell as "kennel broks" are very easy to house-break. Treat all your puppies for worms soon after they are weaned, as then the worms begin to be dangerous. In some cases as young as five and six weeks is necessary. Worms kill more dogs than all other diseases combined; but this you will find carefully treated and remedied by any good veterinarian who has a stock of worm medicine to take. House-
break older dogs, follow the same plan, only a little more severe.
SHADE IN KNOWN YARDS.--Fortunate are the dogs in a kennel durung torrid weather, if well provided with shade trees. Nothing would appear to please a dog, especially a terrier, on such a hot day, as to burrow into the cool earth. If this can be done, it is better than any other form of shade. The dog should have his own cool earth nest. If appropriate shade is not afforded naturally it is well to build a lean-to or a square, flat, shed-like structure, as low to the ground as the height of the dog's back legs will allow. This should be placed up against this wall so that it may be used at all times of the day when it is raining or when it rains or the ground is wet will be afforded.
GUIDANCE AS TO PROPER Size DOGS or MEDICINE for DOGS.--In many cases your druggist or formerly physician will advise you to prescribe for your dog, but not to give him too much of the medicine to give him. He knows best.
Let them be guided by the following: A proper sized dose of medicine for the largest breeds of dogs may be given the same size if for a man. We will take the case of a large dog, say 50 pounds. A teaspoonful of medicine for a middle-sized dogs like a setter or pointer can be given from a half to three-quarters as much as a St. Bernard, while a dog like a fox terrier, a terrier; a dog the size of a pug, a quarter; and smaller toy dogs from one-eighth to a twelfth part.
In regard to age; the matured dog, one part; a year old, three-quarters; six months to nine months, half; and at four to six weeks, one-eighth. This is Daniel's idea, and he is the first one who ever gave me advice on this subject. I have often asked my friends how much they would give to treat, and tell me that they really did not know how much to give the dog of the remedy that they knew was required in the case.
PREPARING DOGS'S SIOVOS.--(By Harry W. Lacy, in America's Stock-keeper.)
The preparation of dogs for shows is a matter upon which we are often asked for advice, and in view of this fact we think it well worth while to publish our opinion on this subject. The time spent in preparing dogs for exhibition is well worth while and will be appreciated. The most notable feature of the inquiries made about this subject lies in the obvious fact that the aspirants to exhibition fame do not realize the necessity for preparation until the time has come for their appearance before public gaze. It is true that some people make no mention about matters that ought to have been foreseen and arranged weeks, perhaps months--earlier. A dog needs to be put through some sort of training course just before he goes out into show business if he is initiated into the proper ways. The depart-
ment he is likely to find useful is that of showing dogs to reporters or public.
To some extent a dog intended for exhibition is public property, and the public who pay to come and see him ought to have him exhibited to them in the best condition possible.
How can a dog be taught to look his best? Well, chiefly by being kept in good conditions by careful dieting, and particularly by regular exercise. Keep his blood flowing freely through his veins--rest him--ready for his meals, well
![]() A black and white illustration of two dogs playing with a ball.
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groomed and well amused—for dogs like amusement as much as their masters do.
Do not let him get into "slack" ways—keep him up to the mark." These
methods, and some occasional exercise in the manoeuvres of the show ring, will have an excellent effect. Rehearse, rehearse! There is nothing like plenty of rehearsal to prevent any dog from being a failure on the day of the show.
**Disappointment?** Is not that a large order to execute all at once? Who is going to make a dog proof against the great flood that waylays the race of dogs. Several
experiments have been made with dogs who have been trained to be very bad
temper. There is no surety that he will not have it so, whether he has had dis-
experience showing that it is the exception for a dog to contract the disease a
second time—though many dogs do.
Then, bearing in mind that contagious diseases always need a receptive con-
dition before they can spread, one should always take care that a dog is never
sent to a show if he seems at all "below par" or run down. Give him beforehand
some cooling medicine and plenty of exercise. One of the greatest destroyers of
dogs is the "oxymoron," which is a disease which exists only in the imagination;
it is less likely to occur than disease. Disinfectants are of more value applied to
the coat; we should treat more to the general condition of health and to a thor-
ough disinfection on returning from the show. No dog with a cold or discharge
should be sent to a show. The owner must be able to give a satisfactory report,
show no doubt such a condition would be noticed at the veterinary examination
and the dog would at once be refused admission. Stringent rules are very neces-
sary at big shows, and it is not always possible to enforce stringent rules without
injuring the interests of the public.
The first three points surely do not need much explanation—but they do need
emphasis. Dogs intended for show must be so fed and groomed that they are in
full condition of health, but not gross; and their skins are free from—we will
not say "filth"—but from dirt and grease, which may affect their appearance and
affecting the skin; that they are constantly well-groomed to keep their coats in
proper order, there is nothing as good as for a dog's coat as regular grooming;
and that when a dog becomes ill, it must be sent home until it has recovered,
six to twelve weeks might be said after treatment, whatever treatment may be
necessary to dispose them will naturally reduce the animal to a condition not up to
show standard; and as one dose is never enough (really) to free a dog from
any disease, it is necessary to give two doses, one in the morning and one in the eve-
nings, well in advance of the show-time; and then all that should be needed after-
wards is an occasional mild apertine pill or capsule just to keep the pests from
getting a lodgement again.
Age or Maturity.—The larger breeds of dogs, like St. Bernards, Mastiffs,
Great Danes, or Newfoundland, do not mature until two years ago; setters
are probably about four years old before they reach full size. Dogs of this size,
and including smaller breeds, will, as a rule, mature at a year old.
Determining Age of Dogs.—Many novices will appreciate a few lines upon the
subject of how to determine the age of a dog. Fortunately, there is not the amount
of rogery in the canine fancy as there is in "horse" circles; but now and again
one sees dogs given "births." To certain breeders it appears that every dog,
indemnified by examining its age. A dog which has forty-two teeth, and there-
fore complete in number at the age of about eight months. This clearly indicates
the age so far, but after that there is no method so certain, and a good deal of
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judgment is needed. As a rule the teeth of an old dog will be dark and lacking in the pearly look of a young animal's teeth—but even this must not be too much relied upon, as cunning dog dealers take care to use a tooth brush freely if such be necessary, and, moreover, dogs' teeth vary a great deal; as ours do.
General good keeping, the age of a dog can best be adjudicated by a combination of appearance—Old dogs are generally more sluggish and less active than younger ones with it. Moreover, curious as it may sound, grey hairs will tell a tale in dogs as well as in our own case, for it is often noticeable that a dog has become gray in the head and ears, and that his coat is no longer so glossy and lustrous in appearan-
ance of coat as regards greyness; general demeanor; condition of teeth. To these may be added the shape of the claws, which in some breeds are curled round and often disposed to be long and feathery. Finally we may suggest as good advice to owners of expensive dogs that they keep a close watch on cases of doubt. The owner should never purchase a dog at a show or upon any such sudden inspiration without being guided by a competent adviser.
TREATMENT OF FLEA DOGS.—During the season when sportmen's pesk bench chews and put their dogs in trim for the pursuit of Bob White, sporting dogs need to be treated against fleas. Flea infestation is very common among dogs, and makes them in a greater degree than other dogs; and a knowledge of how to properly treat cases of sickness amongst field dogs is, of course, very essential, unless they are allowed to escape into the house.
In the first place it is most essential that when a dog has been at work in the field he shall be attended to at once on his return home at night. The dog should be thoroughly groomed; if wet let him be rubbed dry with a rough towel. So far as possible all traces of dirt should be removed from his coat, and he given to kennel without any attention—the result is that they get either rheumatic or asthmatical. Another important thing is to examine the feet and ears with a view to the removal of all thorns and other foreign substances which are likely to cause trouble. If any are found they should be removed with forceps or at least. If it should be found on examination that the feet are sore and inflamed, they should be bathed in tepid water, and afterward with advantage may be sprinkled with powdered Pfeffer's earth, which is very absorbent and cooling as well.
As we said above, rheumatism is another common ailment affecting dogs which have been neglected after exposure to bad weather. Rheumatism occurs either through overwork or through exposure to cold weather. This disease is known as "kennel lameness." This again is an ailment which will recur from time to time under unfavorable conditions It can best be dealt with by the use of equal parts of turpentine and soap liniment, which is very searching, especially if a little hartshorn be added. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rheumatic troubles is sulphate of molybdenum. The dog should also have some internal medicine, and the most effective remedy for rh
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be allowed to eat meat or anything of that kind that he picks up in the field if he can possibly be prevented from doing so. The commonest poison likely to be picked up in this way are arsenic and strychnine. It is impossible to mistake a dose of strychnine, but the symptoms of an arsenic overdose are limited in the case in which arsenic there is vomiting, swelling of the tongue, and great pain especially noticeable if the hand be placed on the belly. The best thing to do in any case is to administer an emetic. Mustard and water is the best emetic, but if it fails, ipecacuanha may be used. In the case of a pow-
ered magnesia, or, in the case of strychnine, by giving a quantity of fat.
REALIZE Winter Puppies—Puppies born during the late autumn and winter months are more trouble to rear than those whelped in the spring or summer. The changable weather which is experienced in most parts tends to check their growth and make them more prone to develop disease than under more favorable conditions. The reason why puppies born in winter are more troublesome is that the breeding would be an easy matter, even to the novice, for however delate the breed, it is rarely they will not thrive under such invigorating conditions as those found in winter. Puppies, like all animals and vegetable creation, will expand to the sun's rays, though the air may be, and feel it a joy to live.
But even under the most unfavorable conditions, such as were experienced during the winter of 1897-8, it was possible to rear a large majority of the puppies provided common sense is brought to bear and the dam is well nurtured and nourished before and after whelping. For the first few days after birth the puppies themselves require little attention, meaning that they all, at any rate, are not too fond of food, so that the stronger do not push the weaker away from the litter. When the latter is the case, if the puppies are valuable, it is advisable to have a good foster mother to rear them.
One cause of failure in the rearing of autumn and winter puppies is that they are pampered too much, even very often in the case of the larger and hardy breeds, such as St. Bernards, Retrievers, etc. There is a succession of rainy days, with no sign of improvement until a stormy day comes along with a tempestuous wind, an outhouse, stable, barn, or whatnot, where very little light or air can reach them, with the result that they all lie huddled up together for warmth. This is a very bad thing for them because it keeps them too close together and liable to deprive one to play and romp about. A dog who has mistaken kindness, encourages them in this lethargic state, because the door is kept fast closed against her, and she cannot have her liberty when and how she pleases.
When they gain their skin strength they become active and playful. The instinctual advantage is in taking of the smell of the dogs that go, and because the ground is wet and cold it is thought these poor little shivering puppies must not run out and get their little (or big) paws wet, they must still be kept in till the ground becomes dry enough for them to play about. But this bit of dry weather and the puppies allowed a run out to exercise, even if only for half an hour, they would return to their kennel refreshed, their blood would circulate through them again; but naturally, they would play and scramble about without having with added rest.
When the sun, however, puts forth his rays if the puppies had some straw,
coarse shavings, or dry bracken (which is often obtainable in the country) laid down in a corner of a yard or garden, they could be left there for several hours,
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```json
[
{
"text": "everthing about dogs."
},
{
"text": "be allowed to eat meat or anything of that kind that he picks up in the field if he can possibly be prevented from doing so. The commonest poison likely to be picked up in this way are arsenic and strychnine. It is impossible to mistake a dose of strychnine, but the symptoms of an arsenic overdose are limited in the case in which arsenic there is vomiting, swelling of the tongue, and great pain especially noticeable if the hand be placed on the belly. The best thing to do in any case is to administer an emetic. Mustard and water is the best emetic, but if it fails, ipecacuanha may be used. In the case of a powdered magnesia, or, in the case of strychnine,"
},
{
"text": "is powdered magnesia, or, in the case of strychnine."
},
{
"text": "in order to give him a good start."
},
{
"text": "realize Winter Puppies—Puppies born during the late autumn and winter months are more trouble to rear than those whelped in the spring or summer. The changable weather which is experienced in most parts tends to check their growth and make them more prone to develop disease than under more favorable conditions. The reason why puppies born in winter are more troublesome is that the breeding would be an easy matter, even to the novice, for however delate the breed,"
},
{
"text": "the breeding would be an easy matter, even to the novice."
},
{
"text": "for however delate the breed."
},
{
"text": "under such invigorating conditions as those found in winter. Puppies,"
},
{
"text": "under such invigorating conditions as those found in winter."
},
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"text": "like all animals and vegetable creation will expand to"
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"text": "like all animals and vegetable creation will expand to"
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```
USEFUL INFORMATION REGARDING DOGS
or at least during the warmed part of the day, say from 11:30 to 2:30, and if a few big bones were given them they would keep on the move and there would be no fear of colds. Light and air are absolutely necessary to all creation, and puppies like men, cannot thrive without either; therefore if they are to be suc-
cessfully reared during the year, the year's time must have a plentiful supply of
such things, for if they do not get them, they will never grow up to be well-bred.
DOGS BARKING AT PEOPLE PARSING.—Here is another very bad habit that dogs get into—generally their owner's fault, and not the dog's, because if when the dog first began this it had been thus corrected, the bad habit would have been checked.
For instance, a man has a dog who barks at people passing by; he says, "If it does so, get your whip and give the dog—catch in the act—it whippings, and you can soon break him of it. Aside from the annoyance to people it is danger-
ous for your dog, as in running and starting at a team he is liable to get in front and run over, hurt or killed. Dogs must be made to behave, as all dogs should do."
FIGHTING DOGS—I am a lover of any and all kinds of Sports—that is legitimate and not cruel. If two men want to fight—all right—they know just what they are about to do. But if a man wants to fight his dog with another man's dog he has to—and be "counted out." I draw the line of sport at dog fighting, a brutal sport (? ) It is, and the man who will allow his dog to fight in past, not only against other dogs but against men, is a man who has lost his human existence—a he is pitiful—he loses his friends—he wanders on the streets.
I breed Bull Terriers, that would rather fight than eat. If they had been starved a month, but never are they allowed to fight if it can prevent it, and generally eat their food before they go to bed. I have sold many of these dogs for money knowing fully here to advise any one who wants a fighting dog to save their postage stamps and not pay anything for a terrier if they want it for fighting
purposes. Purebred bull terriers are seldom seen in this country. The owners,
as the persons who want "pit dogs" are the kind that are not willing to pay for
a genuine and well bred specimen. The mixed breeds used for this are commonly called "Bull Dogs," a misnomer, as a genuine bull dog is never a fighting dog.
THE DOGLESS BOY.
"But the poor dog, in life the firment friend,
The first to welcome, foremost to defend,
Who labors, fights, lives breather for him alone."
Boy is here used here in a generic sense, for the love of animals, and especially dogs, is not confined to either sex. We do not think a boy was ever born who,
if "entered" properly, would not love a dog when given the opportunity. There seems to be some affinity between children and dogs. The selfish cat may be a funny thing sometimes; but the dog is always ready to help us in any way we need. A saucer of milk and the chaw within the velvet are typical of its nature; uncer-
tain of temperament and cruel even in its seeming play. Not so the dog. It matters not whether his lineage proclaims him a blue blood or a mongrel; there
| 308 |
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS. |
is something behind the eye of a dog which draws to the heart. No animal is so responsive to the humanizing effect as the dog. His idiosyncracies and tempera-
ment are, like those of man, much a matter of environment. Cuff him and treat
him gently as an infant, and he will grow into a gentle, affectionate, and loyal
friend; whereas, if he be treated as a mere chattel to be housed and fed as one of a number
and he becomes a mere automaton; but treat him as a friend, as one of your
household and how soon the human influence is marked. His ideas are widened,
his sympathies are enlarged, and his love for you is increased. The same instinctual
nature which earned him the title of man's best friend, is brought to the
surface. Though the society of man has a humanizing effect on our four-footed
friends, the dog himself is not so easily influenced by human society. He is
a creature of his own, and may suggest and encourage the same traits in the budding
nature of his little friend. Every boy should own a dog. Josh Billings well said
that in the whole history of the world there is not one thing that money cannot
buy, except love. A dog is worth more than all the gold in the world. Love God
on God's earth who, in the honesty of his affection, will still love and wag his
tail for the hand which beats him. The love of Bill Sykes dog for his brutal
master was one of the most touching scenes ever witnessed.
The boy who is raised with a dog for "pat" is unwittingly humanized. The
love for another is engendered in his heart, and afterward has its effect on his
conduct in the wide world of mankind. Be his nature cruel, more from thought-
lessness than from any other cause, he will learn to be kind when he cannot but
learn a lesson from the mild reproach of the brute he tormenteth.
A horse would kick, a cat would bite or scratch under the same provocation:
not so with dogs. There are exceptions, of course, but no dog believes, in this
savage, if he does not feel it. The dog is a true friend to man. In all things the
parent's judgment must be exercised in providing the right sort of dog for the
boy, as in other provisions for his welfare. A man may become a lover of dogs when he has learned to appreciate their virtues. The best dog is often the
favorite pet. He has missed nothing. He will not "get into" his dog as he
would have done as a boy. Once a dog lover always a dog lover, no matter
whether the circumstances of his after life compel him to love them from afar.
The dog is the better for it and so is the man. Buy your son a dog--H. W. L.
HOW TO WASH A DOG.--Use luke-warm water in summer, but in winter it can be warmer. Wash almost any place in summer, except in a windy place;
but in winter do it in a warm room. A couple of baths a week in summer are sufficient; but in winter give two or three baths every month. Brushing is neces-
sary, and if you would give the dog addition a brushing and grooming, I much prefer
this plan. One month in winter is enough.
Washing should be done when the dog can be combed and combed as well as exposed to
wet or cold weather after rain. In giving a bath in cold weather do so in a warm room,
using warm water. Give him a good shampooing--and nothing so good as your hands--using plenty of soap and rubbing it in so as to open the pores of the-
skin and remove dirt and grease from them; then rinse out thoroughly with hot water.
The dog's eyes, or down too deep into his ears, and thoroughly dry (the ears aside).
An old wool blanket (a clean one of course), is a good thing for the first drying,
finishing up with rough towels. Be sure and get the dog's head, neck and breast dry, for here lies the danger of catching cold, and be careful as to exposure out
HOW TO WASH A DOG.
209
of doors that day if weather is cold or wet, exercising the same care and pre-
caution you would for yourself after a bath.
Now, as to soap. Don't consider that any soap will do for your dog, for it
won't if you value a fine coat on him. Many common soaps will injure and ruin
a dog's coat unless they have been thoroughly washed out of them. This is
true of all soaps, but only one a quart and half for a pound, and so it's not expen-
sive to use a good one, in fact is cheaper in the end. There is no dog soap "just
the same," or quite so good as Erschler's. It is a different soap from any other
commonly used, and its secret lies in the way it is made. The secret of this
one ingredient is a secret. There is no carbolic acid in my soap, as there is in
many dog soap, a dangerous article to use, and quite so in a soap through
absence of carbolic acid. I am not going to tell you how to make this soap for our own use, and I just want to say here that no face soap made for people is quite so good as to use on your own face. As a dandruff cure on your head
washing made can surpass it, besides it is a hair grower, and a cure as well for
any skin disease. You can send me by mail for Twenty-five Cents, or a dozen for $2.50, carriage paid.
Spent at least ten minutes in thoroughly shampooing your dog, then rinse
him thoroughly with water until he is clean. This is the most important thing for the dog after a bath and if he has been partially dried,
which saves you many hours as in turning the dog out in the yard; it will naturally
run and romp and finishing drying up. This plan can only work in warm,
sunny weather, but if you live in a cold climate where the sun does not shine
will do, then it must be used as directed for each case--the latter being allowed
to remain on for some time. Don't allow dog to rest or lie down till its coat is
absolutely dry, and never wash within two hours after it was fed.
If you are going to keep your dog outside during the winter months to be dry when
they are not, you must exercise great care. Fill a foot tub with lukewarm (not hot) water, so that it reaches to the elbow of the dog, and beginning at head, cover,
with a towel or blanket, and let the water run over his body. Then brush off all dirt.
With a soft hair brush of long bristles, brush the hair with the soap suds down-
ward from the centre, until he is perfectly clean. Rinse out the coat with luke-
warm water, place the dog on a table, envelope in a soft towel, and smooth it from
the head to the tail until absolutely dry. Never ruffle or rub the coat, or
you will spoil it; simply smooth it.
To prevent a dog catching cold after a bath apply alcohol over the entire body. Exercise after a bath will stimulate circulation. A very little coconut oil,
thinned with water, applied to the palm of his hand will stimulate over the entire body
and greatly improve its after washing.
In lieu of winter baths with no risk to run as to catching cold, a good grooming
is worth while. A good grooming will accomplish all the good of a bath, and this you can do every day with great benefit to the dog. Grooming is better and safer than baths in winter. In preparing dogs for a bench show pro-
fessional handlers groom their dogs every day for a month beforehand, and this
is why you always see show dogs with such fine coats.
KENNEL SUGGESTIONS.
Quite a number of the following have been written by Harry W. Lacy, Kennel Editor of the American Stock-keeper, which I have saved up and here reproduce, at least in part, with the hope that they may be of some use to those who own dogs. Very much benefit can be derived from these "Successors" and "Doxys."
A number of suggestions for the care of dogs have been made from time to time in "Notes for Novices" in Our Dogs (Enc.), and in them there is a great deal to be learned. But there is one point which has not been sufficiently emphasized, and that is the necessity for proper attention to those little matters count for much more than one would think at first sight. But the experienced fancier knows the value of those extra attentions, and his knowledge can be seen in his careful grooming, his attention to the cleanliness of his kennels, his often excessive amount of leavering to servants and other disinterested persons matters which he should attend to himself.
For instance, the matter of feeding. How many dog owners there are (especially in the upper class of society) who never give the least attention to their dog's feeding, leaving it entirely to others, and only waking up now and again when something has gone wrong. Feeding, if left to any careless person who does not know how to do it properly, is almost always unsatisfactory, and every owner ought to consider it his bounden duty to superin tend regularly the feeding of his dumb friends.
Large dogs are given a large portion of their food - to "bolting" their food. This is a bad habit, and there to have an ill effect sooner or later. To prevent a dog from habitually doing this it is best to give him, before his proper meal, a hard, dry biscuit. This will take off, as it were, the edge of appetite and so, when the usual food is offered, he will eat it without hesitation.
Large bones should be regularly given to dogs because they act splendidly as cleaners to the teeth, the rasping of every vestige of meat doing this most effectu ally. Large bones only should be given, because if too small the dog will crush them into pieces which will cause injury to the teeth.
The best way to give a pill to a dog is to sew it up in a piece of meat. Then ensnaring the animal one or two pieces of similar size, which are at once belted on the pieces containing the pill may follow successfully. It is important that from free to last the dog should not be allowed to bite at the pill until it is well down applies here.
So the pill or powder must be well concealed. In giving a small quantity, or forcing it into the jaw and pouring the liquid into the mouth where it will remain and half choke the creature, since he can not swallow while his mouth is wide open, is in much better to use the lower part of the lips as a sort of funnel and slowly allow the medicine into that, when it will be impossible for the dog to avoid swallowing it.
Many fanciers - novices that is - experience a great deal of trouble in physic ing their dogs, simply from want of knowledge of how to go about it, and it often happens that they are unable to get their dogs into a state of fright that good by the medicine; and not only so, but it is well nigh impossible to get proper cooperation unless the dog be kept absolutely quiet, and that only can be when either the medicine is tasteless or the administrator of it skillful.
KENNEL SUGGESTIONS
If a person wants a dog for a pet only, he can make a pet or a general companion of any of the recognized breeds, and his accomplishments will only be limited by the amount of companionship he can grant him, and your choice should be limited simply on choosing a breed you most admire. Your choice of a companion rests also with you. Different men admire different kinds of companions.
**HOT WEATHER ON DOGS—Every provision should be made during the heated season to protect the dogs, especially suckling puppies. Whereas a dry cellar is convenient, it is a good plan during the extreme heat of the day to make arrangements for their comfort in this cool retreat.**
The kennel should be provided with plenty of cool and frequent changes of drinking water. Water placed in porous earthenware pots will be found to keep cooler and sweeter than in metal vessels, and these should be washed out daily. The floor should be covered with straw or hay, and the walls should have a shallow shelf in kennel yards when Nature has not done so, and it is well to have awnings over kennel windows and doors. Exercise only during the early morning hours and in the evening, the rest of the day let the dogs lie quietly. In arranging for the accommodation of puppies, they should be kept away from the ground. This space makes an admirable retreat in hot weather and, admitting of a free current of air all times, provided the kennels are built on a natural slope, they will be kept cool by the warm air flowing in winter, which, for obvious reasons, is a serious defect in kennel architecture.
During very hot weather it would be well to remove all bedding from under litters of very young puppies. Place them on the floor so the air can circulate freely around them. If possible, they should be taken out into fresh air as often as possible or they will go under. A big lump of ice placed in the shade of the window-sill will help cool the atmosphere in the kennels.
**CARE—DIE—NURSING—Absolute cleanliness, an unfailing supply of fresh water, and plenty of exercise are essential to health and life; but not least, companionship is needed by a sick dog. Locking a dog in a darkened room or stall, or any uncounseled change, will work havoc with a sick dog. He wants to see his master, he relies upon his companionship, and he thralls to his master's voice. The more affectionate he becomes towards his master in his difficulty. A word of appreciation is worth more to his nervous system than drugs, and he will frequently eat and take nourishment simply to please his master.
Dogs have sensitive stomachs, and often, as a result of indigestion, refuse to eat altogether. In these cases this is Nature's method of working a cure.
If the dog is down with some febrile disorder that is rapidly weakening him it is best to give him nourishment in liquid form. Liquid food is the lightest and most sustaining character.
Medical practitioners and trained nurses have brought the dietary of the sick room up to a perfection that gives satisfactory results with good results.
It is always best to provide foods easy of preparation, nourishing and sustaining. Milk, mutton broth, rice pudding and raw eggs are valuable foods. Boiled rice is easy of digestion. Raw beef or mutton, minced or chopped fine, fed a few times daily will do much good. It is advisable to feed such food at intervals, and should be resorted to, as there is always danger of a diseased stomach rebelling against too long continued liquid food.
A few teaspoonfuls of brandy or port wine will frequently cause the stomach to retain food that would otherwise pass through without being digested.
be rejected. It is best given in the form of an egg-nog and fed a few teaspoonfuls at a time.
A dog will eat small quantities of food offered from his master's hand when he will refuse it from a dish. Do not allow a pan of food to remain before him after he has declined to eat. Remove it at once and offer it at some future time.
**CONDUCT OF DOGS IN THE SHOW RING.** Of far more importance than the appearance of the dog himself is his conduct in the show ring. He must have some little preliminary training. It is one thing to have a decent specimen, and quite another for it to comport itself so that the judge can take it at a glance, and with the least pos-
sible delay give it its proper place. The dog who shows well is one whose owner is able to display all his strong points without unduly exposing his weak ones. Old show hands know this very well, as any one may see for himself by watching the way in which they handle their dogs in the ring.
There are some judges who will take a lot of pains to get a nervous dog to show himself, but there are others, having heavy chances to judge, who cannot bow to the demands of the public taste.
Such being the case, it is, too, politic for an owner to either take the dog into the ring himself, or else leave it to someone who is an expert in the business, or that the dog knows perhaps as well as its owner. All owners cannot, of course, keep their dogs in such a condition that they will always show well. When being shown it is not wise to leave it to a perfect stranger to "handle" the animal.
There are a number of expert handlers at every show, and the notice that has a good dog and cannot conveniently attend himself would find it to pay him to enlist the services of one of these men. A man who does not understand how to act the part of handler, it is left to the keepers to bring in the dog. Naturally the dog will not show himself for those men as it would for its owner or some one fully familiar with the art of handling. Innumerable instances are recorded accordingly. Dogs are highly sensitive animals, and often when sent away without any previous prepara-
tion look and really are rejected.
The person, therefore, who aspires to be an exhibitor, and to get every ad-
vantage possible from his dogs, will be well advised to rehearse a few times the actual business of the show ring.
Take your pups out into the road early, to accustom them to curious sights and sounds; it makes all the difference at their first show.
Accustom them also to go on foot; they will also have a collar, and to lead nicely. This cannot be done in a field or garden they know well, or they will scream and crouch, but in a road or quiet street they will pay more attention.
I would particularly impress on all who own dogs--especially young owners--
that it is not only to their interest, but it is their duty to be true masters, ruling with firmness and kindness, and providing for all the wants of the animal in lodg-
ing, food, and clothing. If they do not provide for these things properly, then that thus only can health be maintained. If a dog has not proper food provided at proper times, but are allowed to be the scavenger of the yard and the street, where he may find it become his natural disposition, a nuisance to his owner and everyone else; thus, on the other hand, he can be pampered with
bit-tit-bit and sweet cakes, he will lose all kindliness of disposition (the great charm of a companion dog), and become more restless, snappish misanthrope, than any other animal in nature.
92 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
KENNEL DON'TS.
218
your friends may praise, but dare not pat; he will lose all beauty of form, all sprightly ease and elasticity of action and become an unashamed, unnatural human being of obesity, to whom the thorns of life are no longer sweet. Those who are the most offenders in this way should remember that dogs are not valued—like prize hogs—for their fatness, and that they are never so healthy and happy as when in good working condition—that is, when they can take a good gallop without puffing.
KENNEL DON'TS.
Don't breed a bitch until the colored discharge has ceased.
Don't breed a volumule stud only several times to one season. One service is just as good if not better than half a service.
Don't wash the bitch while in whelp. If she should get wet, out shooting for instance, see that she has a warm bed and rub her down before she retires.
Don't give your dogs hot food; it is not natural, injures their teeth and leads to indigestion.
Don't prevent a bitch that is in whelp from eating whatever she pleases, though you find she has a penchant for filthy matter, carrion and other filthous and detestable of the street let her have her way or, better give her suajour in her feed.
Don't send your bitches into water while in whelp—at any rate not after the fourth week.
Don't keep your bitches in whelp chained up or kennelled continually, they should be allowed to gently walk exercising every day, especially the last three weeks before whelping.
Don't neglect to feed your brood bitches with every food that will strengthen and stimulate the mother in the trying periods of pregnancy and while suckling puppies. It is best to feed them on milk alone during the first two weeks, then add some meat and other fluid producing matter. So with the bitch; when her puppies are required to show bone this state is greatly aided by supplying her puppies feeding foods. Freepricted phosphate of lime should be given to the bitch at least once a day during the first two weeks of lactation, then gradually reduced to the puppies until two or three months old. Half a teaspoonful daily to a puppy is sufficient.
Don't, if you can avoid it, keep your bitches in whelp in kennels or yards where they must continuously jump up on their hind legs in order to look upon the outer world; have open wire or slats for fencing and divisions. If you must have solid partitions build them so high that the bitch will never attempt to jump up in order to look over. More puppies are slipped and more bitches miss from this cause than from any other.
Don't wash a dog and then allow it to run around and dry itself. If you take enough interest in the dog to wash it, you should not be too lazy to dry him afterward.
214
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
Don't because you can trust your house pet not to abuse your confidence, keep him shut up in the house for hours. Some dogs are so refined in their habits that they will suffer agonies rather than take advantage of your thoughtlessness.
Don't forget that where a number of dogs are kept, regularity and system should prevail. Invert that your kennelman has a certain hour for exercising, grooming, and especially feeding. Rip-shod methods are just as productive of nervousness and restlessness as the most rigid discipline. The same hours for different work, the dogs become settled in their habits, are not continually restless and on the move; consequently there is little noise and the neigh-bours are not disturbed.
Don't, if you can help it, keep the kennel food in the same building occupied by the dogs. The cooking of food unnerves them and the spirit of anxious expectancy is often the forerunner of a fight, when a number of dogs are kept in one compartment.
Don't feed corneal day in and day out as many kennelmen unfortunately do. A dog's coat and chins you see it may be, but its constant heat the blood, lowers the system and eczema and mange, too often follow as a natural consequence. Never feed it in hot weather.
Don't allow your very young puppies to run with the old dogs. Besides the danger from injury in romping with heavier dogs there is also a danger of the older dogs getting into the habit of carrying and giving them a nip that will scare the life out of them for a week or longer.
Don't in your eagerness to show off the gameness of some two or three months old terrier enter him at a rat. A nip from the rodent, that he does not understand, will sometimes ruin a very young dog for future racing.
Do not think a dog is too young to be put in a pen not plinque in a command. If you do, ten or twenty will spoil his future as a race dog. Let him walk in by degrees, but better still, if possible, let him see some other dog swim out for the stick; if not an inverted coward he will soon enter into the fun of the thing--and so will you.
Don't feed liver and lights to your dog if you value their health. Such stuff may fill an aching void for the time being, but there is no flesh producing sub stance in it. The liver will disarrange the internal and you may as well feed so much sponge as the leather indigestible lights.
Don't forget the dogs. Buses kept in kennels have not as a rule a very healthy time; and those which are allowed to roam about will serve to white away an odd hour or two, bedlam cleaning the teeth and inducing a healthy flow of saliva. But under discretion, avoiding chicken bones and small bones.
Don't throw in one bone for two dogs. Reason obvious. Neither give a bone to two dogs at once nor to one dog more than one bone at a time. The mother while gnawing the bone is not to be depended upon and may give a too venturesome and confiding puppy an ugly bite.
Don't provide high sleeping benches for bitches in whelp; the lower the better so that there may be no danger of incuring a strain which may cause a mis-carriage. Keep them on straw beds with plenty of water and fresh air easy of access, with no corners to run round, when running in or out in a hurry the bitch is liable to bump herself. And above all things avoid swinging doors.
![]() A black-and-white illustration of a dog lying down.
KENNEL DON'TS 216
Don't neglect ventilation in the kennels. Arrange this so that there is no direct draught on the dogs. A good plan is to have openings under the eaves of the kennel and in-coming air to be directed at an angle of 45 degrees so that the air is directed to the top of the kennel first.
Don't feed raw meat to a dog suffering from diarrhea. Feed starchy foods. A good stiff crural of flour and water will often stop the complaint in early stages.
Don't think that your duty is done when you have provided kennel runs for your dogs. This fact will not always answer the exercising purpose. The dog will not get sufficient exercise unless he has a run of some kind. Therefore they should be given opportunity for a scampi at least once a day. This is always feasible in the country and really no dogs should be kept in the city, except household pets, and there can always be given a run when you walk, if circumstances permit, to treat some people don't, and the dogs suffer.
Don't allow the kennel area to become littered with manure. Bedding used unhealthily and a source of worms is very objectionable to dogs and should be regularly taken up, dried and sold to the morocco leather dealers. The bones that accumulate around a kennel can also be disposed of. All these little things count in the conduct of a large kennel.
Don't feed scraps from the table without carefully looking them over before deciding whether or not to give them to your dog. If any of the food is dirty, or if any part of it may be offensive, hide it from him. Bone, chicken bone splinter or other pointed substance that may cause injury afterwards. Also do not feed highly seasoned messes that come from the table just because they are handy and the dog will eat them. It will cost you less in the long run to feed sound wholesome dog food.
Don't use the whip for every little mistake your dog makes. Dogs are not like Hens, they do not lay eggs and treat it as such, and they are uncomfortable with you. Begin by kicking in punishment may do an irreparable injury to the dog. If a whip is used it must be used with discretion. A soft tap with a rubber band is best. It hurts but bruises no bone, and you can control it better than a whip lash.
Don't lose your temper and kick a dog. The dog is apt to consider the kick-injury as a slap and treat it as such, and then he is uncomfortable with you. Begin by kicking in punishment may do an irreparable injury to the dog. If a whip is used it must be used with discretion. A soft tap with a rubber band is best. It hurts but bruises no bone, and you can control it better than a whip lash.
Don't enter a kennel without speaking to the dogs, and especially so at night, or in the dark. The magic power of your voice may save you from a bite. When necessary, speak softly to them and let them know that you are not afraid of them than your beast. And don't shrink from a dog that jumps or runs towards you, this is an exhibition of fear that he is apt to take advantage of, and above all things they don't run away.from him.
Don't fail to frequently examine your dog's mouth. Teeth may become loose, and nothing interfere with his eating; tartar may form which causes toothache; fur is apt to grow between his teeth; his paws, legs, lap dogs, and so forth, that are fed not wisely but too well, and this should be either burried away or scraped.
Small slivers of bone are apt to run in between the gum and tooth; if not removed, they may cause infection
216 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
the gum will ulcerate and become very painful, preventing the dog from eating,
and while in this off-feed condition, you may deem it proper to doctor him for
some imaginary illness when a little examination would show you the cause of
the trouble.
Don't exercise your dog after a meal, nor yet just before it. How would you
like to run half a mile after a good feed?
Don't feed sloppy food to the dogs; that sort of stuff may be all right to fill
signs and make them fat, but it is not good for the dogs' more delicate
nerves. If you have a father who will know it is customary to give teething babies something to use their gums on. Puppies are four legged buggers, and they require similar treat-
ment when teething. Chuck the puppy a bone or a bluestick and that will help the
grinding of his teeth.
Don't think because you know what you wish your dog to do that he can grasp
your meaning off-hand and without effort on your part; dogs are intelligent, but
they are not claivonvants.
Don't buy drugs in great quantities as they become inert or greatly deteriorate
by keeping, especially when exposed to light and air; therefore, buy such drugs
only in small quantities. The judgment of those whose judgment in selection
and whose fair dealing can be depended upon.
Don't trust your dogs as simply so many animals that have to be fed and
housed. We can not understand keeping dogs under such conditions. Handle
your dogs, make friends with them, because they are dogs. A man need never be
afraid of a dog that he has made his friend. It is only by making friends that the
man of feeling for all the trouble he may put himself to in this direction, and it
will last longer than a good many other loves. If you want to win prizes with
them, accustom them to being handled and to show themselves off to the best
effect. If you want to keep them in order, train them well. A dog that does not know him or that is "contrary." A good puppy is often placed back because he is taken into the ring without any thought of preparation for ths trying ordeal. Accustom your dogs to being shown up in collar and chain. They soon
grow used to it.
Don't wash puppies when they are very young, unless they happen to get into some filth that can not be removed when dry by the brush. Don't wash puppies until at least six months old. Grooming and "show grease" every day will im-
prove the coat and do more good than washing.
Don't let your pup, or pups, get into the habit of barking violently, a most
treacherous thing among breeds and not enough out door exercise, and also some-
times hereditary.
Scold them, and keep a switch in the corner, for a nip now and then; they will soon pay attention.
THE MODEL KENNEL.
The following valuable article was written especially for this book by Mr. Fuso Jacobi, Proprietor of the Woodbine Kennels, Lowell, Mich.
In view of the fact that "Man's Best Friend," the dog, has proven himself the most faithful of all animals, accepting with good grace any care he may be bestowed upon him, while the man who is rich whose home is surrounded with everything that is beautiful and luxurious, or the poor wandering tramp who can only afford to divide the few crumbs that he is able to beg or steal, to this ever true companion should be granted the privilege and pleasure of a place that he may know is his home.
The kennel raised dog has not the liberties and pleasures of the ordinary house dog, and to him more attention should be given so as to his home and surroundings that he may have a comfortable and fit condition to be seen at all times. No dog can present a good appearance if he is brought up from puppyhood in a cellar or old shed, cramped quarters and foul surroundings, with a dozen mates to join in the miserable life, as is often done by some breeders. It is no wonder that these dogs are always out of condition, loaded with skin diseases which infect such places. Many men would gladly give their dogs a better home and have surroundings more comfortable yet they do not think of how best to treat them. In order to get a thorough description of a model kennel well suited for the convenience of twenty-five dogs, and as many more puppies. These plans are not imaginary, but exhibited at the Woodbine Kennels, Lowell, Mich., where visitors are always welcome.
First should be considered the location. This should be high and dry soil, a side hill will give the best results so that excessive rains will not form pools of water in the kennel yard. Select your site and stake it out on square. Cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door, cut down trees and brush about 30 feet from your front door.
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EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
kennel yard. Now get forty rods of good, reliable kennel fencing, which should be six feet high, and a two-inch mesh. Fasten to posts firmly, the lower wire meeting the top wire previously fastened from post to post.
The foundation of kennel building should be next to be considered. This should be of stone, 18 inches thick and 3 or 4 feet high, 16x60; this will furnish ample room. Have opening at each end of wall, 2x2 feet, to allow dogs to run in during hot days or stormy weather. Next lay the joists, then the studding, which should be six or seven feet high. Have good pitch to roof. Before putting on siding or shingling, get some good building paper, covering all sides with three coats of paint. Next put on a good waterproof paper over the siding, a superior building paper, two layers of paper between which is woven cel- gram 5/4 inch in thickness. This paper will keep out heat as well as cold, is germ proof and can not burn on account of the salicy nature of the lining. Place this on wood boards before shingling if a thorough job is wanted. Next put on your siding. Have three windows on each side, 36x60, two such that will slide to each other, much harder than one that raise. Have door at each end of kennel. Have a brick chimney built at each end and kennel will be warmest in winter time. In the cold weather you can run stove pipe the full length of building to other chimney, which will warm up the interior at no greater expense while the food is being cooked. Next put on a partition at each end of building, 12x14, one to be used for cook and wash room, the other for office. The floor in the wash room should be built on a slant to allow all water to run away freely.
You will now have a space of forty feet between office and cook room which will be used for kennels or stalls for the dogs as follows: On each side of building put four feet of flooring at each end and four feet wide, the framing being 18 inches thick; then put one inch thick, have them cut three and four feet long, nail firmly at corner of each size; this will form a square; now draw a line from one end of room to the other on each side near wall; this will line up your frame work perfectly. Nail one end of frame to each studding, the other corner to floor, now proceed to put on your matched flooring. Nail front solid, the top should be on hinges to get at dogs and clean out easily, so only nail firmly the two first rows; then nail down every second studding or four feet; studding below two feet apart; have top sawed across every four feet so that each stall will have a separate door at top, which will give you ten separate stalls on each side. Now have an opening cut through siding, 12x14, for a door in each stall; have this at one end of each stall instead of centre, as your dogs can lay away from doorway in case of heavy wind or hot or cold weather. In winter weather for day protection have a common grain sack or carpet tucked on inside over door to keep out cold and
THE MODEL KENNEL
severe drafts. For night protection a dog should have even more than this for a dog, like the human being enjoys comfort at night. For this purpose the simplest and best method is to have a sliding door on outside. This should be made of matched flooring four inches wider and longer than the opening, and have this door made so it will slide easily up and down by placing a screw eye on top which is fastened a good heavy cord, having this pass up and over a pulley through a hole in building, so that door can be raised or lowered at will with each side of building. After the stalls are built you will have a large room, 10 feet wide by 10 feet long, which may be used as a dog house in season, or use it as a store room for crates, etc. One side of the kennel and yard should be kept for matured dogs, the other for puppies and bitches in season, or for bitches with pups. In order to protect the pups and bitches in season, get some wire fencing and divide off one side of kennel yard same as their stalls, call one end of fencing firmly to building or to a post set at building and have this fencing go straight out to a post at fencing which composes the other side of the yard. The fence should be about two feet high, four feet wide and about forty feet long, sufficient for the puppies until they are old enough to go in the main yard with the matured dogs, neither can they get out, as has been the source of much annoyance to many owners of bitches in season. Do not neglect to place eye troughs on building, have a large tank to catch all water so that you may always have a good supply of soft water for washing your dogs. The floor should be covered with straw or hay from three to four feet wide, 6 feet long. Make box tight and paint it. With a box like this you can work all around your dogs in washing. Place this tub near tank, have tank elevated so that after washing you can give the dog a good rinsing from tank which should have a faucet and short piece of hose at bottom. Remember that the kennel yard should be plowed up or spaded over once a month; this will keep the soil in a sweet and sanitary condition. Do not forget that every time you buy hay put some in the kennel yard; this will make it more comfortable for them to have a generous amount set in the yard as well as a new round out. For this purpose there is not a handmeber or more thrifty, fast-growing tree than the Carolina poplar, not the tall, lanky Lombard poplar, which is an eye sore and nuisance. The Carolina poplars can be secured from any nursery at from 15 to 25 cents each when ten feet high; these will make large trees in three years. The kennel yard would not be complete without a green house where your plants can be kept during winter months; this day: An earthen dish of good size is best for this, and have it sunk in ground to keep water out. If convenience is wanted and small expense not objected to it would be well to have a one-inch pipe run from pump to each of the yards leading to each dish; at the pump you could have a connection that would fill each dish independently or fill all at one time; this would avoid the bother of carrying water in path to each dish.
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109
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
If you follow the plans as set forth above, I know you will have a kennel that will suit you in every detail and one which will be a pleasure to your best friend, "the dog." Should you at any time wish any further advice on this subject, I will be only too pleased to assist you in any way possible, knowing it will benefit the kind, dumb creature who gives his master worlds of pleasure and is ever faithful, he be the companion of the rich or poor.
STUD DOGS.---A great deal of a breeder's success depends upon the state of health in which the stud dog begins offspring for a debonair or unhealthy dog is more than likely to transmit his defects to his offspring who attain maturity. Considerable attention should therefore be paid to the comfort of a dog who is in the habit of receiving a large number of stud visits. He should, if possible, be well exercised morning and evening, either by a country walk, or a round run his owner's yard; and his diet must be wholesome and liberal. Stud dogs should never be used during the heat of the day, whatever the exigencies may be. It should be borne in mind, too, that it is always wise to have your stud dogs look clean and tidy, and that they should be groomed with care. The first impression formed by the owner of a bitch who contemplates breeding from him, and many a dog is passed over whose services had he been in better fettle, might have been resorted to. Care should be taken not to overtax the energies of a young sire by allowing him to receive too many visits; the result of excessive in this way being both sickly offspring and his own ultimate failure at the stud.
Fifteen or twenty bitches a year are quite enough for a dog not in his prime, and it is advisable for such dogs to have their services called once or twice a year. Dogs under eighteen months old are not likely to do themselves or their owners much good if bred from; and availing one's self of the services of a very old dog is always risky. It is extremely hard to state an age at which a dog can be said to be "old," some retain the vigor of their youth up to ten years and more, whilst others get decrepit and break up at six or seven. So much depends upon consti-
tution and careful attention that it is impossible to advise upon the age at which a dog should cease to breed. The breeder should see the dog for himself, whether he is likely to suit his wishes.
In this age of bench show celebration the precautions necessary to obtain the best results are too often neglected in the case of a stud dog on which there is a big run, and doubtless, carelessness in looking after the bitch is responsible for a good many "misses."
A sire should be looked upon with suspicion if his services are in too great request, and the number of his receptions unlimited, as it is only reasonable to
STUD DOGS.
expect sickly offspring from a dog whose stud experience is practically un-
restrictional. A very old dog, unless mated to a young and vigorous bitch, is more
than likely to fail to get stock at all; and if he succeeds in doing so, the puppies
are very frequently of bad constitution and delicate in their earlier days. It is
often the case that the services of a successful show dog are most eagerly sought
after by breeders, and the merits of his father entirely overlooked; and this is
certainly a fact which must puzzle all practical men when they reflect upon it.
A sire of good pedigree, who can produce stock of superior quality to himself, is
better than one who can only produce stock of average quality. The object of
prove himself the success at the stud which he is on the bench or in the field;
especially as in the latter instance the sum charged for his services is sure to
be a considerable one. Many of our champion dogs have turned out complete
failures from a breeder's point of view; while their plainer looking brothers
or brothers have begotten offspring of a far better stamp, though with only half
the chances of success.
As regards the service of the dog to the bitch, irrespective of whether
any puppies result from the union or not, unless special arrangements have been
previously made between the owner of stud dog and brood bitch, varying that
accepted custom,or the dog should be proved a non-stock getter, in which case
the latter may claim back any fee paid. After the visit they should both be fed
and put away in a separate kennel. A bitch that has visited the dog should not
be sent on a railway journey the same day.
BENCH SHOWS.
BENCH SHOWS.--The following circular, which I send out to owners of dogs
who wish them handled, so fully covers the subject of Dog shows that I give it
in full:
Dear Sir:
I take this method of informing you that I shall attend all the Bench Shows
of the year, and am prepared to handle any dogs you may want to show.
The next show is
dates ____________ entries closed ____________ entry fee is $______________ I have not yet received premium list and entry blanks and will advise me, will mail you same at once.
I have been showing and handling for many years and know by experience
nd the bad of dog shows. To ship your dog to any show, and trust it to the care of show attendants to feed, water and exercise—is simply a case of cruefhy to animaliz, inexcusable in the owner of as noble an animal as his dog, and I pity all such dogs I see at a show.
Having superintendent dog shows, I know that it is almost impossible to hire attendants that will properly do their duties being as they are, a lot of failures who have been sent out of work chronic in their cases--due to their worthlessness, etc.
The premium lists always read that—"all dogs will be fed, watered, exercised and returned promptly"—signed by the superintendent, which is meant all right, and if this one man, the superintendent, could do the work of a hundred men, your dog might then be properly or better cared for—but entrusted to the care of attendant—it is not, unless you have a good handler engaged. At every show, no exceptions, I see many a poor dog that is never taken off his bench for exercisethroughout the whole day. The driver is always sitting on his bench and some dog blemish wet with plain water shown at h.e.m. to eat and stop and realize what a hard and cruel time he is having at the show—and don't wonder that he comes home sick and in many cases n "dead dog" the result. These are plain, cold facts and can't be disputed. Aside from the cruel part, it is as essential to have your dog well shown when judged, as it would be to have your horse well driven in a race—if you expect to win. Dogs sent unaccompanied by a handler, are often left out into the ring by an attendant, a stranger to the dog, and who accordingly does not give him proper attention. In every instance during the many years I have shown dogs, I have rarely had a dog sick afterward as the result of being at a show. The reason is this:
I go to shows on the same train with my dogs, water and care for them en route, if a "lay over," so do I and the dogs are taken care of as they deserve.
At the show, every dog in my string is taken off his bench for exercise four to five times daily, fresh water kept in stall, bedding kept clean and changed, bowls filled with food for two times (which if wrong proper treatment given), and instead a trained attendant is placed with each dog. This is done because many are not used to wait and will refuse to touch, every dog in my string is fed morning and night with beef and mutton, which I buy and have cooked daily. Their health is looked after and if any signs of sickness, proper remedies administered.
Every dog at a show should receive such care. You can't do too much for your dog,
and if you will arrange with some good handler and are willing to pay him a fair price for proper care, you need never have a sick dog as the result of showing him.
I am glad to arrange with you on reasonable terms to handle your dogs at this or future shows and wish to impress it on you that while your dog is with me it will be considered and treated as my own, which means that it could not be in better hands.
I am prepared to receive and condition dogs at my kennels in advance of EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
BITCHES SENT FOR SERVICE.
25
show, and if you want them to go through the circuit, can take care of them till last show, traveling them on same trains I go on.
Hoping to soon hear from you,
Yours for the dog,
A. L. G. EBERHART.
P. S.—Will not look dogs of same breeds to show against each other, unless same is fully understood beforehand and agreeable to owners of both dogs. Cross dogs, timid ones and "bad showers" especially solicited—they are all my friends the minute we meet.
BITCHES SENT FOR SERVICE.—On the arrival of a bitch for service, the owner of the stud dog should, unless time is a matter of consideration, fasten her up in a stall or pen, and keep her there until the first opportunity for con-
duction takes place. A night's rest and a feed are very likely to assist Nature's course, a bitch served immediately after a tiring journey being far more likely to miss conception than one who has rested and become a little accustomed to the place and those around her. Many bitches are very troublesome and restless when with the dog, and throw themselves about in a violent manner; others are savage and morose, and if not carefully looked after are likely to fly at him and perhaps do some serious injury. In such cases the bitch must be held by the collar or by a rope round her neck, which should be attached to a tree or a strong branch placed in front of her. The possibility of a fight taking place, or of the dog requiring some assistance, especially in the case of young bitches, make it unde-
sirable that the pair should be left alone together for any length of time, much less after confection has terminated.
After union it is some time before the animals can be separated; twenty min-
utes is about the average, though, of course, this period is often extended
because of duration of service. It is desirable that patience be shown to Nature to take its course when the bitch should be kennelled by herself on straw, and kept as quiet as possible. It is desirable that a second visit should, if possible, be paid after an interval of thirty-six or forty-eight hours. The majority of the owners of stud dogs gladly consent to this arrangement, as it lessens the chances of the bitch proving barren, and also saves them trouble, and their dogs from getting a bad name as a stock getter.
All express companies will now return free a bitch that is shipped away to breed. Proper express on the "bitch going," and have it noted on the way bill that she is "sent for service," and she will be returned to you free.
PATHOS.
Mr. H. G. Jeffery, of the Fifth Mounted Infantry, stationed at the Modder River, in Caledonia, has written an interesting and pathetic account of the return home of the Boers after the war:
"Peace has come at last. Mothers, both English and Dutch, have been relieved of griefs and anxieties. The Boer is now a man again, and his wife a woman once more. Both are free to go where they will and do what they please. The men are all well and healthy, and the women are happy and contented. They are all very kind and courteous to each other, and to the British people generally. They are all very well dressed, and their clothes are very neat and tidy."
Let us accompany a young burgher who has escaped from the terrible conflict. With him back to the old homestead he beholds the "kop", on the threshold of which he stands, with a look of joy and relief upon his face. He has seen his wife sit down on all that is left of the "kop", lost in reverie. He is fighting all his life long against the "kop", but now he has won it. He has conquered it, and he is no longer afraid of it. He is no longer afraid of death, for he knows that he can die with courage and dignity. He is no longer afraid of poverty, for he knows that he can live in comfort and happiness. He is no longer afraid of disease, for he knows that he can fight it off with courage and determination.
He is no longer afraid of death, for he knows that he can die with courage and dignity. He is no longer afraid of poverty, for he knows that he can live in comfort and happiness. He is no longer afraid of disease, for he knows that he can fight it off with courage and determination.
The English Bulldog
There is probably no dog who boasts a longer pedigree, or of which the breed has been preserved as pure as the bulldog. The ancient Romans knew and appreciated this dog, and so did the Greeks. The little "bulldog" or "bulldog mouthed dogs" existed at this time, and that the dog so-called was the progenitor of the modern bulldog. The bulldog is a large dog with a short body and a short tail. It has a broad head with a short muzzle, and its ears are set low. Its eyes are small and dark, and its nose is black. Its coat is short and smooth.
The bulldog was first bred in England in the sixteenth century by Sir John Carew, who was a great lover of dogs. In 1650, Sir John Carew gave an excellent description of these dogs under the name of "bulldogs". In 1730, Sir John Carew wrote a book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1740, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1850, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1860, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1870, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1880, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1890, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1900, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1910, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1920, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1930, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1940, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1950, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1960, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1970, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 1980, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 1990, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 2000, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 2010, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 2020, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail.
In 2030, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with a short body and a short tail. In 2040, Sir John Carew wrote another book about dogs, in which he described the bulldog as being a large dog with
**DRUGS.**
Acetic Acid.—Used in making Minderous' spirit, which enters into fever-mixture, distemper mixture, etc.; also as a cooling lotion, combined with sal ammoniac and spirit, to apply to swellings and bruises, to reduce local inflammation, and to heal skin in bad cases.
Cooling Lotion.—The following is the formula: Take sal ammoniac 4 ounces, strong acetic acid 10 ounces, boiling water 10 ounces, methylated spirit 2 ounces. Powder the sal ammoniac and dissolve in the boiling water and acetic acid, and add the spirit.
Before applying the lotion it must be mixed with eight or ten parts of cold water, and the part kept constantly wetted with it until heat, pain and other inflammatory symptoms have disappeared. N. B.—An interspersion use of such lotions by causing reaction often does more harm than good.
Gallic Acid.—Astringent and Stypic.—Given in diabetes and for internal hemorrhage. Dose, three to eight grains. The following powders are a useful form in which to administer it.
Stipate Powders.—Take galllic acid 3 grains, powdered alum 6 grains, powdered iodine $\frac{1}{2}$ grain, to make one powder. One to be given twice or thrice a day.
Aconite.—The common name of this plant is monk's-hood, and both the leaves and roots are used in medicine. The lititum of aconite of the British Pharmacopoeia of 1857 gives its value at 10 grains. It is a very powerful stimulant; the tincture added to the distemper mixture is, in cases where there is nervous excitement, of great value. It must always be given with great caution. The dose of the tincture is from one-half to three drops, according to age and size.
Aloe.—This is one of the safest and best purgatives for the dog, the dose being ten grains up to twenty grains, the dog requiring a proportionately much larger dose of this drug than man; it is, however, always advisable to try the effects of the smaller dose first; as the lives of many dogs are sacrificed every year through over-dosage. Aloe are generally given in conjunction with other stimulatives, as isola, rhizoma, etc., and are equal to the composition of most stimulant pills made for the dog. The following is a useful mild aperient bollus:
Mild Aperient Bolls.—Take aloes cocotrine, 1% ; drams; powdered jalap, 2 scruples; powdered ginger, 1 scruple; Castille soap, $\frac{1}{2}$ dram; make into twelve balls. Dose, one or two. Or for small dogs, into 24 pills.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
**Atum.—Astringent; dose four to eight grains, given in diabetes and internal hemorrhage (see Acid, p. 47). Atum is also given in cases of obstinate diarrhoea, in conjunction with opium, and it may be advantageously given in such cases as a cyaster, dissolved in great. Burnt atum is a very mild cyanic applied to fungus growths.**
**Ammonia, Aromatic Spirit of (Spirit of Sal Volatile)—A diffusive stimulant, used in cases of indolence in colic, and is given in cases of depression of the vital powers. The dose is from ten drops to a teaspoonful. It must always be largely diluted before it is given.**
**Ammonia, Muriate—Sal ammoniac. For uses see Acetic acid.**
**Ammonia, Solution of Acetate of (Minerars' Spirit)—Given in febrile and inflammatory disorders, dipternus, pemnonia, etc. The following mixture for dipternus which may be given in any case where feverishness or inflammation is present:**
**Dipternus Muriate—Take chlorate of potash 2 drams, sweet spirit of wine 2 drams, Miners' spirit 1 ounce, tincture of harsthorn 2 drams, water sufficient to make 4 ounces. Dose, from one-half to three teaspoonfuls three or four times a day.**
**Ammonia, Strong Liquid.—This is used as a blister to the dog (see Blister). Diluted with three parts of distilled water, it forms the spirit of harsthorn of the shops, which, with other articles, is used as a liniment for sprains, bruises, rheumatism, etc.**
**Lisment for Sprains—Equal parts of spirit of harsthorn, turpentine, rape oil, and laudanum; make a generally useful lisment for the above purposes. If in a glass-stoppered bottle it will not be impaired by keeping.**
**Antimonial Powder (True James' Powder)—This is given as a febrifuge and diaphoretic in doses from four to six grains; it is preferred to tartar emetic, as not being so likely to excite the dog's stomach. It is by some relied on as a cure for dipternus.**
**Antimony, Tartarated (Tartar Emetic).—This, as its name implies, is an emetic. On the dog's stomach it acts very quickly; but, indeed, vomiting appears to be quite a natural act in the dog, and no doubt it is attended with beneficial results when he is his own doctor and applies to his natural physic, the couch or dog grass; but this habit in the dog has been used to his injury, and the use of this substance has been found to be both deleterious and dangerous; it has done much harm. Emetics are, however, of use; and it is not bad practice to give one on the first appearance of dipternus or jaundice, and in cases of poisoning they are our sheet anchor. The dose of tartar emetic, as an emetic, is from one to three grains given dissolved in warm water, and the dog freely drenched with it.**
DRUGS
It is also used as a febrifuge in doses of one-eighth of a grain to half a grain; but for this purpose the James's Powder, another preparation of antimony, is to be preferred.
Arsenic. Tincture of.--This is applied externally as a stimulant in sprains, bruises and rheumatic lumbens, and also for dispersing tumors. It should be used as a lotion diluted with from ten to twenty parts of cold water.
Arsenic. Fowler's Solution of.--This is, I believe, the only way in which arsenic is given to the dog. It is an alterative, and, as such, is of great value in some cases of mange and other obtinate skin diseases. The dose is from two to eight drops. It should always be given on a full stomach, and it must be taken with water or so if it be produced redness of the eyes, running of watery fluid from the nose, or any other symptoms. I generally give it with a tonic to prevent this last result. Give each dose in a teaspoonful of tincture of gentian or Peruvian bark immediately after a meal.
Belladonna.--Deadly nightshade. This is a narcotic and sedative of very powerful action, and, like scrotum, must be used with great caution. The tincture is the most useful preparation of it. Dose, from two to six drops.
Benzoin. Tincture of (Priya's Balsam).--An excellent application to cuts, uras, bites, &c. It should be applied as soon as the parts are cleaned from dirt, &c., to stop bleeding and protect the exposed surface. The tincture is also given in chronic coughs. Dose, ten or fifteen drops on sugar.
Bismuth.--The sublimate of bismuth has a soothing effect in stomach disorders, and in long-continued diarrhoea is often most beneficial. Three to ten grains of it may in such cases be given twice a day in chalk mixture.
Bromine. Potassium.--This is very useful in epileptic fits and to allay excitement. It may be given in doses of from five to twenty grains, and where a dog is subject to fits, continued for two or three weeks. It has, however, a debilating effect.
Buckthorn (Syrup of)--This is a time-honored purgative for the dog, and a very good one, although it has got into disrepute, as I believe, through the rubbish that is too commonly sold under the name; or since it became obsolete as a medicine for man druggists have been less careful in its preparation. The syrup should be made from the fresh juice of the berries of buckthorn (Rhamnus catharticae), a shrub or tree which grows plentifully in our woods and hedgerows. The average dose is one tablespoonful, and to prevent giving a teaspoonful of syrup at once, divide it into four doses.
Calomel.--Acts as an emetic and purgative; it is at all times an uncertain and unsafe medicine for the dog. Youngs and others say it should never be given in larger doses than three grains. Country carriers and others often give it in much larger doses--indeed, by the rule of thumb--and the consequence is the
228
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
death or utter ruin of many valuable dogs. As a remedy in the yellowa and other affections of the liver, podophyllin, or "vegetable calomel," is safer and more effec-
tive.
Camphor.--Calmative and antisypnodic. May be given in cases of excite-
ment and restlessness, and also in severe diarrhea. The dose is from two to eight grains.
Carren Oil.--A most useful application to scalds or burns. It is made by mix-
ing equal parts of raw linseed oil and lime water.
Castor Oil.--Purgative. Dose, from a teaspoonful to a wineglassful. It is
a mistake to give very large doses, as such are useless, the excess being carried
off to the bowels.
Cayenne Pepper.--Stimulant and stomachic.
Chalk, Prepared.--Anaid in its effects; it is particularly useful in diar-
rhea, for which it is best given alone if nothing better can be conveniently had.
From one to three lumps.
Chloral Hydrate.--Antispasmodic and soporific. May be given in cases of fits,
also when the dog suffers great pain. Dose, from five to twenty grains, according
to size of dog, and the result it's desire) to produce. The larger dose would
infuse sleep.
Chloroform.--Principally used as an anesthetic in painful operations. It
also acts as an anodyne and antispasmodic in colic, etc. As such it is generally
given in the form of chloric ether, the dose of which is from ten to thirty drops
in water or other fluid.
Chinona, or Peruvian Bark.--This is a well known medicine, and, as a tonic,
cuts the gut admirably. It is especially useful after distemper and other lower-
ing diseases, and works wonders in getting dogs into high-class condition for
shows or work. The following preparation of the bark is most convenient, being
in concentrated form, and will keep good for years.
Concentrated Bark Tonic.--Take concentrated decoction of yellow chinona
bark, compound tincture of bark, equal parts; dose, one to two teaspoonfuls twice daily in water, as a draught.
Cod Liver Oil.--This well known medicine is given to the dog in cases of
deafness and emaciation supervening inflammatory attacks, and to arrest the
progress of chronic diseases of the respiratory organs. It is also given in scrofa-
lous affection of the lungs and weakly dogs; but it is injurious to give it so strong growing pups of the large breeds, as they are apt to get their paws on
get so heavy the legs often give way. Dose, from a teaspoonful to a tablespoon-
full. Large doses are a mistake.
Copper, Sulphate of (Blue Stone).--Externally applied, it is a mild caustic;
![]() A small image showing a blue stone.
DISINFECTANTS
internally administered, astrigent and tonic; dose from 1/5 to 2 grains, but is apt to cause vomiting. In applying it to proud flesh in sores, choose a crystal with a smooth surface, which wet and rub on the part, or scrape a little into fine powder and dust over the sore.
Cream of Tartar.--A cooling laxative and diuretic. Dose, ten to twenty grains, given daily.
Dandelion.--Given to jaundice, and other liver affections. The extract is the most convenient form, or the decoction made as follows may be given: Fresh dandelion roots, sliced, 6 ounces; water, 1½ pints; boil slowly down to half a pint. Dose, half a neaglina.
Digitale.--See *Purgative*.
Epsom Salts.--Purgative. Dose, one to three drams. A convenient form for giving this salte to the ordinary black draught of the shops.
Ergot of Rye.--Useful in cases of protracted parturition. Five to fifteen grains may be given in a little warm water with a teaspoonful of brandy added. The dose repeated in an hour if needed.
Ether, Spirit of Nitrous (Sweet Spirit of Nitre).--Diaphoretic and diuretic. It is given in distemper, fevers, influenza, etc.
DISINFECTANT IS.
A disinfectant is important to health and absolutely necessary in every kennel. All bench shows use some disinfectant of which there are several good ones. Cerbolic Acid has been used by many, but great care must be taken to use it properly diluted and not too strong, or harm will come from it. Chloride of Lime is also useful if it is very effective because of its odor, but if used should be properly mixed.
A much easier and better plan is to use one that is especially and properly compounded for the purpose, by experts--then you are safe. Santas cannot be too highly recommended. All the important bench shows and a great many kennels use it, and it is used also in many hospitals and public institutions of America and Europe. It is a perfect disinfectant, and unlike many others, has an agreeable odor. It is put up by the Santas Co. of New York in different sizes and forms, full directions with each package, and can be found in drug stores.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
and sporting goods houses. I prefer to use it in its crude form, properly diluted with water. For particulars see their advertisement in this book. Standard Oil of Tar is a good thing, safe, reliable and a perfect disinfectant. I have used it exclusively for some years. It is made by the Standard Disinfectant Co. (see their page advertisement elsewhere), and you will be satisfied and pleased from the very first use of it. It is a strong, white, clear liquid, non-toxic, non-irritant as well as having my bennets scrubbed, I find it pretty strong in the hot water.
| TABLE FOR MIXING STANDARD OIL OF TAR. |
| ½ Teaspoonful Standard Oil of Tar in Tumbler of Water is 1 part to 100 |
1 Teaspoonful in Pint of Water is 1 to 100. |
| ½ Pint to 6 Gallons of Water is 1 to 100. |
1 Pint to 12 Gallons of Water is 1 to 100. |
It will be easy to get other proportions by using this as a base.
Another good one, in powdered form, has lately come out—"P. D. Q." It is handy to use, does the work thoroughly, and being non-poisonous, is absolutely harmless to dogs and cats. It is so fine that he won't let you have it dispersed in your kennel room by the floor or floorboards through the bedding, straw, and soap, to which add liberally the Standard Oil of Tar or Sunnita, and then take a common frying pan, or some iron vessel, put in this some feathers liberally covered with flower of sulphur and set fire to it, previously having tightly closed all windows or openings; touch a match to this and immediately get outside, the pan should of course have been placed on some bricks or a large stone; the flames of this will thoroughly penetrate to every crack or crevice. Do not allow any smoke to escape into the house; if you do, open the windows for ventilation, as the fumes are very dangerous and care should be exercised. Disinfectants have an important portion with medicine today. Their office is the destruction of germs, that are now recognized as being the cause of many fatal diseases, and the tendency of modern medical investigation is to find a germ for every disease. These germs or microbes possess extraordinary vitality and will exist under extreme conditions of heat and cold that will destroy most living life forms. The life of man is dependent upon two most destructive elements of germ, and in cleansing a kennel that has been occupied by a distempered dog all bedding, dirt and rubbish should be burned and buckets of boiling water should be dashed over the floors and woodwork.
The most powerful disinfecting agents are the bichloride of mercury and chloride of lime. Both are cheap and capable of destroying germs. Solutions of carbolic acid sulphate of copper and chloride of zinc are valuable purifiers. The peroxide of hydrogen is also useful. There are also a number of commercial disinfectants and deodorants that will remove smell, keep the kennel sweet and clean and free from vermin. Even the man with one dog cannot afford to be without them.
MEDICAL TERMS.
(This classification of drugs and explanations is given because the terms are used to avoid verbosity.)
* **Astringents**.—Medicines which, if given in small and repeated doses gradually bring about a healthy state of the system without seriously augmenting the secretion, such as arsenic and its preparations, bitters of potassium, etc.
* **Anaphrodisiacs**.—Medicines that deprive of sensation or foaling.
* **Antidotes**.—Morphine or cocaine, drugs that destroy pain.
* **Antiseptics**.—Medicines that resist or check putrefaction, such as chloride of lime, carbolic acid, soda, creosote, etc.
* **Antispasmodics**.—Medicine that overcomes inordinate muscular action, from their sedative effects allaying spasms and convulsions, as chloroform or opium.
* **Apertients**.—See Gastrodia.
* **Antidotes**.—Agents which internally that contract muscular fiber and check diarrhea, hemorrhage and diabetes, used extensively to stop bleeding and diminish discharge from wounds, such as alum, garlic acid, etc.
* **Blasters**.—Agents used as counter irritants for internal inflammation. Strong liquid ammonia being a good and quick blister for a dog; it may be applied on a cloth or sponge held on the part to be blistered for about ten minutes. Spirits of turpentine being a good oil; writing a piece of red manet out of hot water, spritz with turpentine and apply to the part. Pure olive oil should afterward be applied to blisters parts.
* **Coriols**.—Medicines that increase strength, stimulate the stomach and ani-mate the spirits. Coriols are often given to hunting dogs after a hard day's work in the field. Here is a good one to use.
* **Cardinal Balls**.—Take powdered cardamom seeds 1 dram, oil of caraway 10 drops, oil of cloves 5 drops, powdered gum acacia 5% dram, made into a paste with syrup; dose 1 dram ground or hunting dog is one-eighth of this, given wrapped in leathern bag.
**Cuminatives**.—Medicines that expel wind, such as oil of peppermint, ginger, etc.
* **Catnartics**, *Purgatives*, *Apertients**.—Medicines to cause discharges, cleansing stomach and bowels. Leucites are mild apertients.
* **Agents** that cause the body to decompose parts to which they are applied, used for provoking wounds, to destroy worms, to sear the parts and prevent absorption of virus in case of bites, etc. Nitrate of silver, carbolic acid, nitric acid or the hot iron are the most active.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
**Demulcents,**—Agents to soften effects of irritants, by sheathing the surface, such as glycercine, gum acacia, and are used as a vehicle in giving such irritating articles as turpentine, oil of male fern, and many others.
**Diaphoretics,**—Medicines to produce sweating, as sweet spirits of nitre.
**Diuretics,**—Remedies which increase discharge of urine, such as nitrate of potash. Venesection, balmain capaule, etc.
**Indigestion,**—A disease in which the stomach is affected. A dog's stomach is very easily acted on. Numerous medicines are used. Ipecacuanha wine is easy in its effects. Emetic tartar and common salt are useful emetics. Dogs eat grass to produce vomiting.
**Emollients,**—Agents that soften or relax the parts applied to, such as poultices, camphorated oil, olive oil and fomentations.
**Laxatives,**—See Cathartics.
**Mentals,**—Medicines to produce sleep and relieve pain. Morphine is used mostly for the dog.
**Purgatives,**—See Cathartics.
**Stimulants,**—Medicines and liquors used to produce immediate but temporary increase of strength; given in collapse, exhaustion, or in excessive debility, when fever is not present. Sherry wine clear, whisky with a little water added, or good port wine, are good.
**Sedatives,**—Sleeping Tinctures.—Medicines to excite and strengthen the stomach. Tonics are especially good in case of debility following fever, distemper and lowering disease; mostly used for the dog are, quinine, iron, gentian, rhubarb, etc. There are several condition pills now put up, especially for dogs. Serpensan's Condition Pills, Glover's Tonic and Dent's Condition Pills are all good. Dr. Glover's is in liquid form. Either of these will do the work.
**Vermifuges,**—Medicines to destroy or expel worms.
Clysters (Cysters) are medicaments in the liquid form, and are administered for various purposes, as the softening and removal of hardened feces, the allaying of spasms or colic in the bowels, the destruction of worms, for checking diarrhea, and more rarely for nourishing the body. The forms for clysters will be found in the parts of the work treating of those ailments in which they are used. The means of injecting the clyster is usually the common bladder and pipe sold by druggists at 25 cents each, or what is greatly better, an india rubber bottle clyster, which gives the operator greater power, and is less liable to breakage.
![]() A page from a book about dogs.
DEFINITION OF TERMS RELATING TO DOGS.
Apple Headed—Skull round, instead of flat, on top.
Babbler—A dog that gives too much tongue when working.
Beefy—Big, beefy hindquarters.
Belton.—(Blue and lemon) spotted or flecked, and applied to Laverick Setters.
Blaze—a white mark or stripe up the face.
Blood—A dog which shows high breeding.
Breecheship—The tan-colored hairs on the back of the thighs of a Black-and-tan Terrier.
Broken-up Face.—Refers more particularly to the face of the Bulldog or Toy Spaniel, and comprises the receding nose, or lay-back, deep stop, and wrinkle.
Burr—the inside of the ear.
Brisket—The part of the body in front of the chest, or the chest.
Brush—the long fringe of hair on under side of tail of long-haired dogs.
Butterfly Nose—A nose with spotted nostrils.
Button Ear.—An ear which falls over in front, concealing the inside, as in Fox Terriers.
Calf-footed.—A short, round foot, with knuckles high and well developed. A desirable foot for all running dogs.
Chops or Chops.—The pendulous lips of the bulldog; the foreface of a Bull-dog.
Character.— Pronounced indications of the breed to which the dog belongs; also, marked indications of intelligence.
Cheeky.—When the cheek bumps are strongly defined; thick in cheek.
Chest.—The chest of a dog must not be confounded with the brisket; the breast or chest extends between the forelegs from the brisket to the belly. Of course, this applies only to dogs which have a brisket in exterior.
Cobby.—Well ribbed up, short and compact in build.
Comb-fringe.—The long hair that hangs down from the tail of the setter.
Condition.—In good health, flesh and coat.
Cooping.—The length of space between the tops of the shoulder blades and the tops of the hip joints. The term denotes the proportionate length of the dog, such as long and short in the cooping.
Cow-headed.—The hocks turning inwards.
Creak-fool.—Same as above.
294 EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
Crest.—The upper ridge or portion of the dog's neck. Generally applied to sporting dogs.
Crooked-tail.—The crooked tail of a Bulldog.
Cushion—Fullness in the top lips.
Deep in the breast.—Deep in chest; deep from withers to point where chest and brisket meet.
Deep-Cleans.—Extra claws, found on the inside of the lower portion of the hind-legs of many dogs.
Deaf.—Pendulous skin under the throat.
Dish-Faced.—Having the nose higher at the tip than at the stop. Sometimes seen in Pointers.
Domc.—High in skull, showing an elevation between the ears.
Drool Nose.—A flint-colored nose.
Ears.—Long, pointed, and set high on the head.
Elbows Out.—Where the elbow joints turn perceptibly out from the body, as in Bulldogs or Dachshunds.
Expression.—The expression of a dog is largely but not wholly determined by the size, angular position, and degree of prominence of the eye. For instance, in a St Bernard the eye is small, somewhat sunken, showing a little haw. This gives a dignified and rather benevolent expression. *Colore expression* depends largely on the angle at which eyes are set or each other.
Furking.—Disguising a dog's coat or appearance by dying, staining, clipping, or otherwise altering its natural color or its dog's natural formation.
Feather.—The fringe or hair on the back of the legs of some breeds, notably Setters, Spaniels and Collies.
Fiddle-Headed.—A long, gaunt, woolish head, as seen in some Mastiffs.
Flag.—The tail, with its long hair, as seen in some Setters and Newfoundland.
Flat-Sided.—Flat in ribs; opposite of well-rubbed up.
Fleshy.—The overhanging lips of the upper jaw. The term chiefly applied to hounds or other deep mouthed dogs.
Forearm.—The principal part of the fore-leg, extending from elbow to pastern.
Frill.—The fringe or hair on the chest of dogs, especially as in the Collie.
Frosty—A blue-gray color.
Hair-foot.—A long, narrow foot, carried forward. The opposite of Cat-foot.
Hare-cough.—Vied, mottled, or patchy in color.
Hare.-The red, indistinct eyelid, as shown in the Bloodhound and St. Bernard.
Height.—The height of a dog is measured at the shoulder. The proper method is to stand the dog on level ground, close by a wall, and to lay a flat rule across his shoulders horizontally so as to touch the wall; then measure to the point touched by the rule. Some people "tape" from the center between the shoul-
| Crest. |
The upper ridge or portion of the dog's neck. Generally applied to sporting dogs. |
| Crooked-tail. |
The crooked tail of a Bulldog. |
| Cushion. |
Fullness in the top lips. |
| Deep in the breast. |
Deep in chest; deep from withers to point where chest and brisket meet. |
| Deep-Cleans. |
Extra claws, found on the inside of the lower portion of the hind-legs of many dogs. |
| Deaf. |
Pendulous skin under the throat. |
| Dish-Faced. |
Having the nose higher at the tip than at the stop. Sometimes seen in Pointers. |
| Domc. |
High in skull, showing an elevation between the ears. |
| Drool Nose. |
A flint-colored nose. |
| Ears. |
Long, pointed, and set high on the head. |
| Elbows Out. |
Where the elbow joints turn perceptibly out from the body, as in Bulldogs or Dachshunds. |
| Expression. |
The expression of a dog is largely but not wholly determined by the size, angular position, and degree of prominence of the eye. For instance, in a St Bernard the eye is small, somewhat sunken, showing a little haw. This gives a dignified and rather benevolent expression. *Colore expression* depends largely on the angle at which eyes are set or each other. |
| Furking. |
Disguising a dog's coat or appearance by dying, staining, clipping, or otherwise altering its natural color or its dog's natural formation. |
| Feather. |
The fringe or hair on the back of the legs of some breeds, notably Setters, Spaniels and Collies. |
| Fiddle-Headed. |
A long, gaunt, woolish head, as seen in some Mastiffs. |
| Flag. |
The tail, with its long hair, as seen in some Setters and Newfoundland. |
| Flat-Sided. |
Flat in ribs; opposite of well-rubbed up. |
| Fleshy. |
The overhanging lips of the upper jaw. The term chiefly applied to hounds or other deep mouthed dogs. |
| Forearm. |
The principal part of the fore-leg, extending from elbow to pastern. |
| Frill. |
The fringe or hair on the chest of dogs, especially as in the Collie. |
| Frosty |
A blue-gray color. |
| Hair-foot |
A long, narrow foot, carried forward. The opposite of Cat-foot. |
| Hare-cough |
Vied, mottled, or patchy in color. |
| Hare |
The red, indistinct eyelid, as shown in the Bloodhound and St. Bernard. |
| Height |
The height of a dog is measured at the shoulder. The proper method is to stand the dog on level ground, close by a wall, and to lay a flat rule across his shoulders horizontally so as to touch the wall; then measure to the point touched by the rule. Some people "tape" from the center between the shoul- |
DEFINITION OF TERMS RELATING TO DOGS.
ders to the ground, but this plan obviously adds to the real height of the dog,
and is practically a fraud.
Hockes.—The hock joints.
Huckle-boars.—Taps of the hip-joints. The space between these and the tops
of the shoulders is called the couplings.
Kinch-Tail.—A tail with a single break or kink in it.
Knee.—The joint attaching the fore-pastern and forearm.
Leather.—The skin. Especially applied to the ear.
Lengthy.—Too long for leg compared with the body. Stilted.
Lengthy.—Denoting the head, body, or limbs. See Long or St. Bernard.
Level.—Applied to jaws and teeth where they meet in front, and means that
they meet evenly.
Loins.—That part of the anatomy of the dog between the last rib and hind-
quarters.
Long in Flank.—Long in back and loins.
Lippy.—Furrowing lips, where such ought not to exist.
Locus.—The place, or famous haunt of Colles, Newfoundlanders
and some other breeds.
Mens.—The profile hair on top of neck.
Muzzl.—The dark muzzle of a Mastiff or Pug.
Merle.—A bluish-gray color splashed with black.
Non-Beaked.—See Disk-faced.
Occept.—The prominent base at the back or top of the skull. Particularly
prominent in the Pomeranian.
Out at Shoulders.—Shoulders set out-side, as in the Bulldog.
Out at Elbows.—Elbows turning out.
Overhaut.—The upper teeth projecting beyond the lower. This fault in excess
makes a dog piggewed.
Pud.—The under portion or sole of the foot.
Pasterns.—The lowest section of the leg below the knee or hock junction with
foot.
Peakeh.—Some of skull high, as in Bloodhounds and Irish Setters.
Pecking.—The black marks or streaks divided by tan on the toes of a
and-tan Terrier.
Pig-Jawed.—The upper jaw longer than the lower.
Pilegy.—A mixture of hard and soft hair in the coat, the short coat being woolly.
Plume.—The tail of a Pomeranian.
Prick Ear.—(See Tufted ear.) An erect ear; not turned down or folded.
Quantity.—The evidences of good blood and breeding, and of desirable character-
istics as shown in the general appearance of the dog.
EVERYTHING ABOUT DOGS.
**Racy.—Slight in build and leggy, as in the Greyhound or Whippet.**
**Bent Tail.—Where the tail at the end curls into a ring.**
**Back Back or Arched Loins.—The arched or wheel formation of loin, as in a Greyhound, Dachshund, Dandie-Dimont Terrier, and Bulldog.**
**Rose Ear.—An ear of which the tip turns backward and downward; that is, it falls at the back, and the tip hangs over outward, showing part of the inside of the ear.**
**Second Thighs.—The muscular development between stiffe-joint and hock.**
**Semi-Prick Ear.—An erect ear of which the end falls over forward.**
**Spine.—The division between the nostrils.**
**Skull.—Too narrow and light in body.**
**Short Coat.—Short in back and loins.**
**Shoulder.—The top of the shoulder blade, the point at which the height of a dog is measured.**
**Sickle Tail.—A tail forming a semi-circle, like a sickle.**
**Skull.—Formed by the frontal, parietal and occipital bones—the brain box.**
**Snippy.—Where the muzzle is long, narrow or peaked.**
**Snippy.—Too pointed in muzzle.**
**Splat Foot.—The feet spread out flat.**
**Sterna.—The region of the tail.**
**Stifle Joint.—The joint at the stifle—-the hip joint.**
**Step.—The hollow or indentation at the skull and nasal bone, below the eyes. This feature is strongly developed in Bulldogs.**
**Style.—Showy, spirited, or gay demeanor.**
**Throatiness.—Excess of loose skin at the throat, dewlap. In some breeds this is a fault.**
**Thumb Mark.—The round, black spot on the fore-legs of a Black-and-Tan Terrier.**
**Tight Eyped.—Having no few.**
**Timber.—Bone.**
**Fugue.—The voice.**
**Top-Kend.—The hair on the top of the head, as in the Irish Water Spaniel, Dandie-Dimont, and Bedlington Terrier.**
**Trace.—The dark mark down the back of a Pug.**
**Tricolor.—Black, tan and white.**
**Twicked-up.—Twicked-up loin, as if the Greyhound.**
**Twip Ear.—Partly pricked, or upright, and drooping at the tip.**
**Twist.—The curled tail of a Pug.**
**Underbelly.—The lower jaw projecting beyond the upper one.**
**Underbelly.—The lower incisor teeth projecting beyond the upper, as in Bull-dogs. The under jaw protruding beyond the upper jaw.
DEFINITION OF TERMS RELATING TO DOGS.
287
**Upright Shoulders.**—Shoulders that are set in an upright, instead of an oblique position; not laid back.
**Varmint Expression.**—As in the eye of the Fox Terrier, which is free from Haw, is not sunken, is round but rather small than large, and set horizontally, not obliquely, giving a keen, rather "cussed" look.
**Vent.**—The tan-colored hair below root of tail.
**Well-Eye.**—A blue mottled eye.
**Weedy.**—A dog that is leggy, thin, and out of condition.
**Wheaten.**—Pale yellowish color.
**Wrinkle.**—Loose-folding skin over the skull.
![]() A circular emblem with a stylized design.
INDEX.
Amorous of the Eye 61
Amorous of the Eye, An Assessment of Cures 100
Apothecary's Guide to a Dog 130
Potioner 130
Apothecary's Guide to a Sore Nose 130
Age to Sway Initches 49
Apothecary's Guide to a Sore Throat 49
Apothecary's Guide to a Swelling Tongue 49
Apothecary's Guide to a Wound 50
Apothecary's Guide to a Wound, Eart 50
Breaking Dog to Collar and Chain 62
Breeders' Guide to a Dog 147
Breeding Dogs and Puppies 147
Breeders' Guide to the Female 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Female 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding 148
Breeders' Guide to the Female, Males, Breeding, Breeding, Breeding,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Breeders' Guide to the Female,
50
Amorous of the Eye
Cold in The Head
Coughing
Drooping Ears
Ears Canker Internal
Enlarged Joints
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Fainting
Faining
INDEX—Continued.
**Pathology**
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
Glandular Diseases
**Polypterus**
Dogs to Death
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
Purging for Show.
**Rabbits**
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabbits
Rabies (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
Bleeding (Bleeding)
**Hemorrhoids**
Hemorrhoids
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