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Bolton Wood Brier &(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)(Bolton Wood Brier)()<(CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMINBY BRER CUMMIN BYE RBR ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER ER E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBR E RBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERRBERR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BERRR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RR BE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE RE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
A table showing pedigree information for a horse named "Masterpiece." The table includes columns for Individual, Sex, Clanname Ancestor, Clanname Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, Clanname Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Great Grand Ancestor, ClannameGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGreatGreatGrandAncestor, ClannameGrandAncestor, Size of Yoke, Size of Yoke, Size of Yoke.
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UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MINE/S/B YE/C UN MIND/S/BE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/CE/ CE/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R/R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R&R>R/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/>/RE/<(MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MASTERPIECES MAS TIER PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE PICE P ICE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CE PI CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE CI PE 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JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III JJ III J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J J j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j j jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jj jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjijiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii iii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii ii i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i
A table showing pedigree
120 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
Without tracing out all the relationships — and every dog in this table is related — it is worth while to point out that all are descendants of Cholmondeley Briar. The three greatest producers of the lot are Master Briar, grandson of Cholmondeley Briar, his son Chim Marvel, and Crompton Oaring, who is by son of Master Briar out of a daughter of Cholmondeley Monarch.
This same table is very useful in checking certain beliefs more or less popular among dog breeders. For example, there is the old kennel proverb that "a great sire is famous for his daughters." The table does not bear this out. The great Airedale sires have produced thirty championship winning sons to twenty championship winning daughters, or half again as many. Since the proportion of dog to bitch champions in the whole breed is only eight to seven, the great sires have been distinguished by their breeding value in their male get who have won championships.
In the second generation, the proportion of grandsons winning their championships is even greater. The exceptional grand-sires produced seventy-two grandsons and fifty-three grand-daughters who were able to annex the title. Moreover, sons of champions pro-
PEDIGREE STUDIES 121
duced eighty champions of both sexes, forty-five dogs and thirty-five bitches, while the daughters of champions produced forty-one champions, twenty-two dogs and eighteen bitches. Except that both sons and daughters of champions produced more champion sons this is not a fair comparison, since the opportunities of the dogs are vastly greater than those of the bitches. In fact, when we consider the comparatively few number of puppies that any bitch can produce during her lifetime, the daughters of exceptional sires have made a wonderful showing and, compared with the average progeny of the average brood bitch, they surely fall under the class of the exceptional breeding individual. Theoretically, an ideal mother would be one whose sire and dam are both champions. Such a bitch could be very reasonably expected to prove the dam of puppies above the average class of the breed.
Certain characteristics in cattle, poultry, rabbits, guinea-pigs, and human beings have been proved to follow Mendelian inheritance, and it is a very natural hypothesis that certain points in thoroughbred dogs do likewise. Eye color, wire and smooth coats, and coat color are those characters that, from what has been
122 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
discovered to be true in other animals, we should most naturally expect to behave in the typically Mendelian ratio when contrasting factors are crossed in dogs.
That black and brown coloring do in fact exhibit such a Mendelian behavior in transmission among dogs as among mice and guinea pigs was forecast by the experiments of Professor A. Lang and Dr. A. L. Hagedorn. This has recently been corroborated by the pedigree studies of coat color in Pointers by C. C. Little of the Bussey Institution. The Pointer was chosen because the breed is well established and exhibits at the same time marked and easily recognized differences in color, and yet there is no fancy, placing a premium on any particular shade. The results of Little's studies, which were first published in *The Journal of Heredity*, are set forth in the following table:
Nature of Mating |
Number of Offspring |
Color of Offspring |
Liver x Liver |
97 |
0 |
21 |
36% |
Black x Black |
8 |
23 |
0 |
5% |
Yellow x Yellow |
0 |
1 |
0 |
5% |
Black x Yellow |
57 |
0 |
9 |
15% |
Yellow x Liver |
15 |
8 |
10 |
46% |
Yellow x Black |
9 |
6 |
10 |
38% |
Totals |
186 |
114 |
54 |
453 |
9
PEDIGREE STUDIES 123
Little concludes from his study of these matings and the results obtained that there are two factors at work producing the colors in Pointers:
1. t = B. The factor for black pigment which is absent in brown (liver) animals.
E. The factor for the extension of the brown and black pigment in the hair. In the presence of this factor, animals have spots of brown or black pigment on a white ground. In its absence the colored spots are yellow of various shade. This allows the following combinations, resulting in the four different visible types:
1. BE = Black.
2. bE = Brown (liver).
3. Be = Yellow with black nose.
4. be = Yellow with flesh nose.
Little makes practical application of this analysis of coloring in the following suggestions to Pointer breeders: "In order to purify a strain from black individuals it is only necessary to go on breeding liver to yellow or yellow to yellow indefinitely. As long as this is carefully done there should be no blacks produced. Yellows from two liver parents may safely be crossed with liver-colored animals. If, however, any other yellows are used, the breeder may expect a certain number of black
124 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
young among the progeny. To obtain a pure black strain is not so simple, requiring for its certain completion a separate breeding test for each black individual by crossing with yellow dogs, and for the same purpose to be repeated. If among the progeny any liver or yellow young are found, it is certain that the black in question is not of the formula BBEEE and will, therefore, not breed true."
This is a splendid example of the help that the practical dog breeder can get from the scientific work of the trained biologist. In the past, dog breeders have regarded such work as purely theoretical and of little or no use to them, largely because the data and experiments of those investigators of breeding problems have not been used with dogs. On the other hand, because the method is expensive and takes time required for comparatively long, biologists have not employed dogs in their work on the principles of genetics. Recently there have been indications of a change in this condition. Dog breeders are beginning to awaken to the opportunities they have neglected in shutting their eyes to scientific help for their practical work. Biologists are extending their studies to include analysis of the statistical data of the kennel
PEDIGREE STUDIES 125
club stud books and direct experiments with thoroughbred dogs. Both breeders and biologists must profit by such a movement.
CHAPTER VII
BREEDING SYSTEMS
T HREE things every dog fancier has:
a private formula for a sure cure for distemper; a pet method of feeding and conditioning; and a system of breeding.
These three vary almost as infinitely as the total number of those riding the doggy hobby. Nevertheless, each personal variation can usually be placed under a general classification.
There have been, so I have read, something over 300,000 different combinations of items for breaking a bank at Monte Carlo; but all of these are founded upon four basic principles. It is much the same with all the different systems of breeding a champion. All these systems can be reduced either to a single one, or at best a combination of two or three, of six different basic systems. Strange to relate, three of these six are no systems at all.
The use of the word system applied to a plan or method of dog breeding is unfortunate. 138
BREEDING SYSTEMS 127
The word implies scientific order, a definite rule. It connotes infallibility, a sort of guar-
anteed success. No breeder should ever be-
come so infatuated with a particular scheme
of mating as to follow it blindly, and any
breeding system that sets itself up to be a set
of fixed and unchanging rules can at the very
outset be regarded with suspicion. Such ad-
vice as "Always breed a bitch to her sire's
sire" is wickedly foolish. The breeder who
attempts to follow it is courting failure. The
principles of genetics cannot be expressed in
mathematical formulae that will invariably
work out a correct solution for any breeding
problem. Other breeding systems are generally
founded upon practical observations but mis-
interpreted by the expert or incompetent
knowledge. Others are merely excuses for ig-
norance, or more often laziness. Neither a
guess nor an excuse can rightly be called a sys-
tem.
The best of the so-called systems are those
that neither attempt to lay down fixed rules,
nor to bolster up weakness, nor to offer short
cuts to success. At best, they are merely guide
posts pointing out the way to sound
breeding practice, and even to call them sys-
tems is twisting the meaning of that word.
128 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
Because some breeding systems are good, others are bad, and still others are indifferent, it is well worth the serious breeder's while to consider them somewhat in detail. After so doing he will be better able to map out for himself the best way to carry on his breeding operations. Let us first consider those systems that are no systems at all.
The greatest of these is the trust-to-luck system. It is to be feared that a majority of fanciers breed their dogs on this basis. "Put two good ones together, and trust to luck." That sums up the idea of these men. It is this famous system that, as H. E. Packwood puts it, "floods the whole world with well bred bad dogs," for a dog can have a pedigree full of champions and yet be only a poor specie man but also be downright bad bred. Such strong-minded blood-mixing is not well advised and water, and to attempt to cross them results in positive regression. Selection is the only direct force in breeding that is at the breeder's command, and when he fails to employ it he ceases to be a breeder at all.
Next to the trust-to-luck breeding, and just about as popular and just about as pernicious, is the fashionable breeding system. By this method a bitch is invariably mated to the lat-
BREEDING SYSTEMS 129
est sensational winner. Pedigree, and all that it means in heredity, individual points, and all that they mean in variation—both are blissfully ignored. Only the number of first and special prizes won count, and it is very well known that, given a certain amount of quality, the number of prizes won is almost always in direct ratio to the opportunities given a dog. A reasonably typical dog in the hands of a professional visiting every show in the circuit, or a reasonably good performer run through all the held trials from Connecticut to Mississippi, whether his home is in England or America, his credit at the end of the season, than a truly superior dog, the property of a fancier who only supports his own local fixtures. Trust-to- luck makes no pretense of serious selection. Fashionable breeding deliberately bases its selection on a gauge as stable as a weather vane.
It is not to be supposed that there have been no valuable sires who have also been popular winners, but a breeder who sends his brood bitches to the latest sensation is very apt to produce dogs like the one a fair fancier showed under George Raper at a show in the Midlands several years ago. The dean of the English judges gave the entry the gate and his owner later came up and complained bitterly
130 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
that such things should not be because, for-
sooth her entry was sired by Champion So-
and-so and his dam by Champion Such-one.
Raper's answer was, "Not true, Madam,
show the pedigree and leave the dog at home."
A third so-called breeding system is the ego-
tistical system. A fancier breeds to his own
dogs because it is cheaper, because it gives
them greater opportunity as sires, or because
it supplies the puppies with pedigrees that look
as if he had established a strain of his own.
Often he is absolutely honest in his belief that
his stud dog is the greatest living sire, but this
blind prejudice, even though it be innocent, is
nowadays a fault because it is blind and
innocent. This egotistical breeding is the
breeding vice of little minds.
These three systems, the trust-to-luck, the
fashionable, and the egotistical are all actively
bad. By a lucky fluke some few good dogs
may have been bred according to them, but
any one of the three followed consistently is
sure to result in great waste of time, effort, and
good breeding material, without having made
the least progress. They are the ones that
are no systems at all, and together they are un-
doubtedly responsible for that vast army of
BREEDING SYSTEMS 131
thoroughbred dogs whelped every year that are never good enough to be anything more than a yard dog or a companion.
The three systems that remain are much more serious attempts at careful selection based upon definite principles. If they were no more, they would be great improvements over those we have discussed. Properly employed, each is a valuable aid. Their abuse has lessened their usefulness. Not one of them can be considered an infallible rule of sound breeding, for any one persistently employed will bring a breeder upon the rocks. These systems are in-breeding, line breeding, and out-breeding.
There are, we must remember, but three forms of true in-breeding. In-breeding necessitates the direct crossing of one individual's blood. This is only possible when a sire is mated to his own daughter; when a dam is bred to her own son; or when full brother and sister are crossed. Probably nine fanciers out of ten consider the mating of half brother and sister (dogs with either the same sire or else the same dam) as in-breeding. This is the primary cross of line-breeding. In fact, as we discovered in our pedigree studies, most of the
182 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
ideas about the prevalence of in-breeding results from a confusion of these two terms and what each really means.
The mating of a male to his own daughter obviously results in a tremendous intensification of blood. Using the figures of the numerical expression of the law of ancestral heredity, there will be 31 per cent. of his blood in the puppies. Plainly, such a cross is the most effective means of perpetuating the qualities of a certain dog. The same is true in the case of a bitch bred to her son. These two are the closest forms of breeding, though, of course, if the individuals employed themselves in-bred, or even line bred, the intensification of blood will be even greater.
The breeding together of full brother and sister is the most effective means of preserving and perpetuating a certain cross. A bitch bred to a certain dog has produced a litter of very exceptional quality. To repeat the cross will be an uncertain experiment at best, but to breed together the best dog and the best bitch of the exceptional litter will fix the nick of blood firmly.
In-breeding for generation after generation will result in degeneration of physical and mental powers, and, if persisted in, will eventually
BREEDING SYSTEMS 133
mean sterility and the production of monstrosities.
Blind puppies, and ones with malformations,
especially of the legs, feet, ears, and tail,
are the goal of continued in- and in-breeding.
How soon the deterioration will appear depends
upon the ruggedness of the variety experi-
mented with and the conditions of kennelling,
feeding, and the use under which the breeding
stock lives. It is, however, perfectly safe to say
that no day no breed of dogs is in-bred to
anywhere near an injurious point. The total
number of inbred dogs certainly does not ex-
ceed 5 per cent, and in most breeds probably
not 5 per cent. These figures show that there
is much exaggeration in the belief in the com-
monness of in-breeding.
The danger of in-breeding lies not, as so
many suppose, in deterioration, but in the mag-
nification of the heredity of a single individual.
This is, of course, the very object of all in-
breeding, but it is this magnification that creates
both misfits; in-breeding is a double edged sword.
It is just as difficult, if not more so,
to remove faults as to improve excellencies.
The removal of in-bred faults is a "bad job."
For this reason, in-breeding can only be judi-
ciously used. However, the fact remains that
in-breeding, properly understood and wisely
134 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
applied, is a most directly effective weapon in the hands of the breeder. Much of the improvement in our blooded stock—this is particularly true of cattle and poultry—has been the direct result of skilful and prudent in-breeding.
Judged by the results produced, however, line breeding, although its results have been slower and are less sensational, has been even more successful. In our pedigree studies we saw that line breeding has, in the case of two typical Terriers, produced more than five times as many champions as in-breeding, and the breeding of a champion is the object of the dog fancier's breeding operations. Line breeding may be considered as a slower, safer, surer method of close breeding.
Line breeding can be defined as the combining of the blood of a certain individual without the direct use of that same individual. It is fairly represented by the mating of cousins in which the blood of the grand-parents is again combined. It is possible—in fact, fanciers often use the term in this way—to have a dog line bred to a certain great individual without that individual's name actually appearing in the pedigree at all. Such a line bred dog offers all sorts of opportunities for
BREEDING SYSTEMS 135
the use of certain blood in various combinations, since he can be mated directly to the exceptional individual in question without the attendant dangers, both active and passive, of direct in-breeding.
The primary or closest cross of line-breeding is the mating of half brother and half sister. This, like in-breeding, offers a means of concentration of one individual's blood. The outer limits of line-breeding shade off into out breeding. It is not always possible to determine just when the one begins and the other ends, but for practical purposes a rough and ready rule can be based on the law of ancestral heredity by disregarding as line-breeding anything beyond the fourth generation.
Two subordinate modifications of line-breeding are primary and secondary figure systems and the alternate generation system. The former was originally worked out for race horses and was first presented to dog fanciers by C. J. Davies in his book on breeding. In his monograph on Scottish Terriers he traces out the system in the pedigrees of this breed. The distinguishing feature of the figure system is the transfer of the emphasis from the sire to the dam. Instead of studying the sires in a pedigree, the dams are analysed, and all dogs are
136 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
placed in families traced back through their dams to the original females of the breed. The system has one very obvious advantage. The fact that a sire usually has many more progeny than a dam makes the determination of his breeding value much more complicated and difficult task.
With his many opportunities a dog at public stud may sire several winners and yet not be a truly exceptional sire. On the other hand, if a bitch produces the same number of good offspring she is almost surely an exceptional breeder.
The figure system traces back the different families through the bitch line, and by this means discovers the strains that have been specially prepotent. As an example, Davies, in tracing out the Scottish Terrier blood lines, discovered that the majority of the champions of the breed have been throughout their lives dams from the bitch Splinter II. Bitches who trace in tail female to this bitch and their sons are members of the Splinter II family, and, as such, are peculiarly desirable breeding stock. The figure system has never gained any general popularity among dog fanciers, probably because of the labor necessary to trace out the female lines of the different breeds. Few dog
BREEDING SYSTEMS 137
fanciers have the patience and the industry of the chief supporter of this system, which, moreover, has no very apparent advantage over the method adapted from Davenport in discov-
ering the prepotent strains through the better known lines.
The alternate generation system of breeding is based upon the belief that exceptional quality is accustomed to skip a generation. A famous dog is noted for his bitch puppies, or a dog never gets a son as good as himself; are two very common and very dogmatic statements. Their support rests upon the fact that several great dogs have failed at stud, and that their sons have often been markedly successful sires. We have seen, however, that this does not hold as generally true. The shining ex-
amples we have led fanciers astray. The prin-
ciples of breeding are certainly not new, but any belief in certain characters skipping a generation, except in the case of reversions which are, however, very irregular in their action and quite uncommon. The drag of the race would be at work to make the get of excep-
tional individuals less exceptional, i.e., closer to the average of the race, but there is no biological evidence to support the idea that it is better to breed to the progeny of an excep-
138 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
tional dog or bitch, if the parent is available.
Straight out-breeding, the scrupulous avoid-
ance of all close breeding of any type, is a
child of the super-fear of the noxious effects
of continued close breeding. From what has
been said, it is plain that this is foolish and un-
profitable. Moreover, from a practical point
of view, it is almost impossible. The line of
descendants most bred will come to be con-
centrated in certain families which have proved
to be overwhelmingly prepotent and from which
most champions and exceptional breeding indi-
viduals have been bred. Quite naturally,
sometimes consciously and often unconsciously,
this has resulted in more or less consanguinity
throughout the variety. Any breeder, whose
breeding operations were extensive and ex-
tended over any considerable period of time,
would find it difficult to live up religiously to
a system of complete out-breeding. If he suc-
ceeded in doing so, his dogs would soon su-
juncture of many lines with contrasting heredi-
ties that any success that he might achieve
would surely be sporadic and fleeting.
Destructive criticism is not nearly so valu-
able as constructive. It is a fruitless and
thankless task to pull apart the various breed-
ing systems without piecing together a substi-
BREEDING SYSTEMS 139
tute to take their place. " Piecing together" is the correct verb, for the breeding system I am going to recommend is not an original pro- duction, though I am sure that in the form it offers it, has never been presented to dog fanciers before.
I have been studying the work of other dog owners, from the practices of other breeders, and from practical application of the principles of genetics, always working upon the foundation of my own experience.
First the dog breeder who seriously intends to make every effort to guarantee his own success will learn all he can from the history of his breed, and next, after thoroughly understanding their points, he will draw up for himself a very definite ideal. His actual breeding operations will be directed towards the establishment of a strain that will as closely as possible approximate this ideal.
Remembering always that until the drag of the race can be transformed into an ally, it is the breeder's worst enemy, he should strive to accomplish this, rather than to attempt any chance success in the production of a flyer or two. How can this be done, and how can it be done most quickly and with the least expense?
Even a casual study of any breed will re-
140 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
veal the fact that certain points "come good" in the majority of the dogs. Other points are commonly bad. If in the selection of the brood bitches of his kennels, a breeder get two or three of sound average type, but excelling particularly in those points in which their breed, as a breed, is weak, he will have made the most possible start toward the establishment of this ideal strain. Naturally, these bitches should run up on excel to all the points of their breed, but should, so much as possible, be bred from stock strong in these same characters. Bred to dogs excelling in these same points, and better in others, the foundation of the strain is well laid.
In every subsequent mating that takes place a breeder should always strive to hold every good point possessed by his bitch, and to add to them something extra from the stud dog. The dangerous pitfall that trips hundreds of thoughtful breeders is an attempt to balance points, good and bad, against each other. Bitch excelling in one point may easily be lamentably bad in foreface will be bred to a dog with a capital foreface, but shocking in eyes, ears, and skull. Or a bitch with speed and hunting sense, but lacking in bottom, will be mated to a solid dog with substance to spare,
BREEDING SYSTEMS 141
but little else to recommend him. As an example of glorious optimism such matings are splendid, but as breeding operations they are pathetic. The result is more than apt to be a spoiling of whatever good points were possessed by both parents, for these points were probably above the average of the race, and the principle of regression would tend to pull the average of the puppies back closer to the breed mean. Always hold then whatever good points we have, endeavoring in each successive mating to add to these other good points.
The advantage of starting at the weakest points of a breed and working up toward those points that are commonly good in the variety with which one is dealing is almost self-evident. It tremendously simplifies the problems of selection. The more generally a certain desirable point is possessed by a breed, the easier it will be to find a suitable mate possessing it. Sooner or later every breeder is forced to compromise. He must sacrifice one point for another, but the longer he can postpone this compromise, the firmer will be the foundation of his strain. Moreover, a dog excelling in points notably weak in his variety will never fail to catch a judge's eye. This very prac-
142 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
tical, almost mercenary, consideration cannot be overlooked in these days of keen competition.
Working to found a strain from weakness through to strength, and always scrupulously holding all the good points and trying to add other excellencies to them is a broad policy that will be found to be eminently practical and valuable. Working on this basis, there are two things useful in narrowing the selection of the individual dogs in any particular mating. All-ways judge a dog as a breeding unit not by its own merits, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but by the interests put up by its own offspring, but
To form a right estimate of the ancestry of a dog a knowledge of the points, both good and bad, of the dogs of the past is absolutely necessary, and a wide acquaintance with the dogs of the present is imperative if one is to judge a dog by its progeny. There are great practical difficulties in the way of doing this.
It is, however, the best and surest means of arriving at a correct conclusion of the true worth of any individual as a breeding unit. Even a dog that has been out bred can be regarded as a valuable asset, but breeders are fortunate in having another alternative that gives valuable assistance in selection. If
BREEDING SYSTEMS 143
an accurate tracing out of the winning strain cannot supply knowledge of the points of the dogs of a breed, at least it can ably supplement it. In the Airedale and Scottish Terriers we found, and the same is probably true of every breed, that a few exceptional sires had been responsible for the vast majority of the improvement. It is very much worth while for a fancier to trace out the winning strain in his own variety. An indifferent dog bred in this strain will almost surely be a better sire than an exceptional winner in whose veins this desirable blood does not flow.
The elimination of all gross work and the utilization of the deep and considerable length of time before success comes should be the first resolution made by a breeder. This means study, first, of the principles of genetics; next, of the breed with which one is dealing; and lastly, of the individuals employed in every mating. Working upon a foundation of excellence in the weak points of his breed and always retaining good points gained and adding others to these, the breeder, provided he judges his breeding stock by their puppies rather than by their own points, is sure to establish a strain upon which he can count for
144 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
results. This, however, cannot be done in a season. The breeder must possess those qualities we all admire in our dogs, patience, game-ness, and faithfulness.
CHAPTER VIII
THE STUD DOG
T
o ninety-nine fanciers out of a hundred it is the soundest and kindest advice to warn against keeping a stud dog.
Since it is human nature for each of us to consider himself "the hundredth man," and as the temptations, especially financial temptations so hard to overcome, are strong, it is right and proper that this advice should be supported with hard facts.
The conscientious breeder always finds that the selection of a suitable sire to whom to breed his matrons is his most serious problem. The more thoroughly he understands the principles underlying sound breeding practice, the more serious this problem becomes. He will look further than to the latest winner, either at the bench shows or in the field trials, as the case may be. He will not necessarily be satisfied with a champion son of champion parents. He will never breed to a dog just because he is convenient, or because he is owned by some 145
146 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
friend, or by a prominent fancier, or by a popular judge.
He must find a dog that is better than his bitch in as many of her best points as possible: a dog, moreover, that has desirable features not possessed by his bitch. This dog will come from parents and grand-parents of the correct type; a dog bred, if possible, in the "winning strain"; a dog who has been proved by his puppies to be a desirable sire. Any experienced breeder will say that it is perfectly impossible to discover a dog combining all these qualities. Granted, some of these points will always have to be sacrificed, but the chance of finding the greatest possible number of them lies in having every dog at public stud available. For any one fancier to hope to keep a single bitch constant with them all hopes that the "impossible" impossible. No fancier, however ever so wise and ever so wealthy, could possibly expect to own such a collection of sires that he would be sure of having just the best possible mate for each bitch in his kennels. The best possible mating is, or should be, none too good for every careful breeder.
The impossibility of keeping suitable mates for all the matrons of a kennel is, of course, the chief objection to owning a stud dog.
THE STUD DOG 147
Many fanciers, not only of dogs, but of other kinds of stock, have tried the costly experiment of attempting to maintain a small stud of exce-ptional quality. They have always failed as breeders, because of the dearth of material for breeding purposes. The stud dog, therefore, still appears so seldom that the breeder must have the greatest freedom in his choice of breeding stock. The greatest freedom is only to be se-cured without the temptation to breed to one's own stud dogs. However good they may be as individuals, however potent as sire's, it is almost always sure that somewhere is a dog who would be a better mate for any given bitch.
It requires the greatest strength of mind not to breed to one's own dog. It is so much more convenient. There is no express charge or study fee for this purpose. One who is jealous of his dog's reputation and wants him to have every possible opportunity to sire winning pups.
If one can withstand these temptations, and always be sure that he is honest with himself in selecting the best possible mate for each of his matrons, then there is no objection in the world to his keeping one or forty stud dogs. It is, however, a pretty safe estimate that not one in a hundred-fanciers can do so.
148 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
It may seem that this advice against keeping a stud dog is diametrically opposed to the advice to find a strain of your own. This is not of necessity a case. It is to be hoped that the breeder will keep track of the dogs he has bred and sold. These can therefore be surely counted among the available sires from whom a selection can always be made. In fact, a breeder should consider them first, and most men do so. But here too he should guard against partiality. Do not breed to a dog you have bred, simply because you are his breeder, or because he will supply the puppies with a pedigree that will look on paper as if you had established a strain. That way lies the egotistical breeding system that leads to nonsense.
If one has determined to keep a stud and resolved to use him with discretion, two courses are open. He can either breed or he can buy his dog. In either case he should apply rigorous tests, the same as he would apply to any dog he was to mate to his own bitches.
The ideal stud dog should be possessed of quality, and accordingly he will probably be a winner at the bench shows, or in the case of a sporting dog, a proved performer in the field. If he is a champion so much the better, for
THE STUD DOG 149
while the title sometimes only means luck or opportunity, still it is generally evidence of quality above the average of the breed. His faults and defects, therefore, sire and dam should bear investigation as to type. If possible, the dog should be already proved as a sire of win-
ning puppies. This is the one most valu-
able test that can be applied to a prospective sire. Naturally, he should be sound and healthy, and he will be at his physical prime when three or four years old.
Being the possessor of such a dog, it is but natural that a fancier should wish to offer his services at stud. This is right and proper, but he should remember that by placing his dog at the disposal of fellow breeders he assumes certain responsibilities first; first, his duty so that the dog kept in the best of health, good health. A vigorous, healthy dog is obviously a more desirable sire than a weak, sickly one.
The foundations of good health, kenneling,
food, exercise, and cleanliness, have been dis-
cussed at length in the companion volume to this book, "Practical Dog Keeping," and it would be going beyond the limits of our sub-
ject to discuss them here. There are, however,
a few special points that apply directly to the
stud dog. He should have plenty of exercise —
150 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
more than is given to the other dogs --- and his regular diet should be supplemented with raw, lean, chopped meat. If very heavy demands are made on his vitality, a couple of raw eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of sherry or port (or even the size of a Pointer) may be given him daily.
Authorities differ on the number of bitches a dog may safely be allowed to serve. Some say only twelve a year; others claim a dog can stand service twice a week without injury to his powers. The former seems "unreasonably conservative," except in the case of a very young dog, but the other goes to the other and the more dangerous extreme. A service a week, or three in two weeks seems a reasonable demand. A young dog should not be used as he bore, for it is ten months old and should be only used upon special occasions.
After a dog is six years old he should not be used more than twelve or fifteen times a year, and at eight years one can expect his ability to get puppies to become uncertain, though some dogs have proved to be potent as old as ten.
Besides attention to the health and vigor of the stud dog, the owner must assume certain responsibility for visiting matrons. He must provide against any possibility of a mesalliance,
THE STUD DOG 151
and see that she is properly fed and exercised. When she first arrives, if she has come by ex-
press, she should be given a run and put in some quiet, comfortable place removed, if pos-
sible, from the other inmates of the kennels. Upset by the journey and frightened in a
strange place, she needs rest and quiet. She should have all the clean, cool water she wants to
drink — she is sure to be thirsty — and she should be fed lightly. The next day she will
be ready to be bred.
A "tie" is generally considered evidence of a satisfactory service. There is, however, no
foundation of fact for the theory that the duration of the service indicates the quality of the
service of the bitch. Over and over, bitches have proved to be a whole whip after a service when there was no "tie" at all, but,
in such cases, it is but fair to notify the owner of the bitch of the circumstances.
There is no more provoking trial to a breeder's patience than to have a broad bitch
"miss." He is apt to put the blame on the stud dog. This is natural, but unjust. Absolu-
te sterility is uncommon among dogs. Over eighty per cent. of the cases of barrenness are
to be found among the bitches. Moreover, a
bitch out of condition — too fat is much worse
152 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
than too thin — very often fails to have puppies even after an apparently satisfactory mating with a proved sire. In such cases, it is her owner's fault. However, most of the misses are the result of not breeding the bitch at the proper time. Sometimes this is the fault of her owner in not shipping her promptly ; sometimes the blame rests with the owner of the stud dog who is careless.
But whatever the cause and whoever is to blame, the owner of the bitch is almost sure to charge the stud dog with the fault. Of this the stud dog's owner may be sure, and, since the reputation of being a sure sire of large litters is a valuable asset to any dog, every precaution ought to be taken to reduce to a minimum the chances of a miss. Careless words from fancier to fancier are often a stud dog's best advertisement, and there are some "knocks" no optimum can transform into "boosts." A reputation as an uncertain sire is one of these.
In advertising a stud dog discretion is the better part of valor. A few facts soberly stated are better than buncombe and extravagant claims. Our English cousins are usually more circumspect in their kennel advertising than we, but oddly enough there appeared in
THE STUD DOG 158
a recent issue of one of the British kennel papers an advertisement that is a good example of all a stud advertisement should not be:
**AT STUD**
The Oldest and Most Consistent Strain of Airedales and the Greatest Sires of the Past Two Years
NOTE---NO ORANGS IN THIS STRAIN
FACTS. NOT BLUFFS!
Stud Dog's Name (K. C. S. B. ____________)
**THE MOST PERFECT**
**AIREDALE**
**LIVING**
£180 refused, winner of 80 firsts and specials defeating many champions. His pup-
pies out this year (we ignore last year's) in-
clude ____________, and a puppy
shortly to come out who can beat the lot.
FEE, FOR A SHORT TIME, 30s.
154 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
One does not have to be a walking encyclo-
pedia of Airedale pedigrees and performances
to appreciate the questionable taste of such
statements, while, had I included the names,
any novice in the Airedale fancy could see that
despite the bold claim to the contrary, there is
more "blue" than "facts" in the advertise-
ment, so far as the dog is concerned. What has
got to do with it? — a stud card is not a son-
net. True, but the object of a stud card is to sell the services of your dog. Confidence is
an essential, integral part of every sale ever
made, and surely confidence is never begot-
ten by statements that the veriest tyro knows
to be misleading. On the other hand, one
does not have to write a "tombstone adver-
tisement." There is a happy medium.
A good working guide when writing a stud
advertisement is to be sure first that you pre-
sent sufficient facts to let the good word
you say for your dog be spread abroad. There
are five facts that should be in every stud ad-
vertisement. The dog's name and stud book number, his pedigree for the first two genera-
tions, his age, the fee, and the address. In some breeds, his weight or his color also come
into the class of the essentials. These are
facts that every one who breeds to any dog will
THE STUD DOG 155
want to know, and, if they are presented clearly in the stud card, it saves time in letter writing.
In saying that, we mean that with your own dog it is not necessary to let yourself be his winning prop-
pies or a criticism quoted from a show report
in a kennel paper speak in your stead. "Best" and "greatest" are two adjectives that should
be struck out of the advertiser's lexicon. You
will never get any three fanciers to agree on the
"best dog of the breed" or on the "greatest
size" etc." It is silly to claim something that
cannot be, except in one case in a thousand,
substantiated, and which is sure to create just
the impression that one ought to strive to avoid.
The various kennel journals are the best
mediums through which a stud dog's services
may be offered. This may be supplemented by
letters and cards sent to known breeders of your
variety. Lists of these can be purchased for
two cents a name and are a good investment.
Two little things that, although not strictly
in the form of advertising, will prove to be
very valuable publicity are Certificates of Serv-
ice and Whelping Cards. Owners appreciate
such attention and they help create confi-
dence and good will. A good form for a cer-
tificate is:
A small illustration of a dog.
156
PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
THE NONAME KENNELS
Thoroughbred English Setters
SOUTHERN PINES
NORTH CAROLINA
Certificate of Stud Service
To Whom It May Concern:
This certifies that on ____________ 19__ the English Setter bitch property of ____________ of ____________, was bred to our English Setter dog ____________, A. K. C. S. B. No. ____________, F. D. S. B. No. ____________, and is due to whelp on or about ____________ 19__.
Acknowledgment Is Hereby Made of the receipt of dollars, 8_____, in full payment of the above service.
Witness.
Owner.
Southern Pines, N. C., 19__.
The whelping card, which should be printed on a self-addressed post card may be in this form:
Page Number |
156 |
Document Title |
PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING |
Title of Kennel |
THE NONAME KENNELS |
Description of Kennel |
Thoroughbred English Setters |
Kennel Location |
SOUTHERN PINES |
Kennel State |
NORTH CAROLINA |
Certificate Type |
Certificate of Stud Service |
Date Issued |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Name |
To Whom It May Concern: |
Recipient Address Line 1 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 2 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 3 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 4 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 5 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 6 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 7 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 8 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 9 |
_____________ 19__ |
Recipient Address Line 10 |
_____________ 19__ |
Form Instructions: |
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THE NONAME KENNELS,
SOUTHERN PINES, N. C.
ON ___________ MY ENGLISH SETTER BITCH ___________, A. K. C. S. B. No. ___________
F. D. S. B. No. ____________ WHELPED ____________ PUPPIES,
DOGS AND ____________ BITCHES TO YOUR STUD DOG ____________
REMARKS
NAME ____________
ADDRESS ____________
Any local printer can get these up in attractive shape, and at a reasonable cost. Both the certificate of service and the post cards for recording whelping will prove to be a good investment for all kennels that do any considerable business, and it is but little more expensive to gain that decidedly personal touch by having special forms printed with the kennel name and address on them than to buy the stock forms. These are, however, better than none, and are specially available for the small kennel or the breeder with a single stud dog.
Before leaving the subject of the stud dog, it will be well to consider briefly some of those ills that are peculiar to him, and which, according
158 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
ingly are not treated in general books on dog keeping.
Impotence, or sterility, may be due to a vari-
ety of causes, some incurable, others able to be remedied. In many cases either one or both of the parents descend to the condition. In the former case a dog is usually fertile in the latter, he is usually impotent, though often able to perform the act of coition. Of course, a dog that has been castrated is absolutely sterile. In other cases, without any apparent reason or cause, the seminal fluid is deficient. This can often be determined by a micro-
scopical examination. Impotence from any of the above causes is almost without exception beyond remedy. A diet of raw meat, supple-
mented with raw eggs and sherry, is rarely beneficial, but, in the case of a valuable dog, it is certainly worth while fair trial.
Temporary impotence due to accident or de-
formity, is amenable to treatment. Fracture of the bone of the penis, which happens occasion-
ally, will mend in a month's time, usually without treatment, but a dog should not be used at stud for two months. When the open-
ing of the prepuce is so construed as to pre-
vent the penis from protruding, it can be cured
THE STUD DOG 159
by a simple operation. This had, however,
best be left to a veterinarian's skill. Some
dogs, especially young dogs, and dogs used too
much at stud, are particularly liable because
of the lack of sexual desire. A dose of tin-
ture of cantharides, from three to twenty
drops, according to the size of the dog, admin-
istered in water two hours before service, will
often have the desired effect.
Inflammation of the testicle is usually caused
by some accidental injury in the case of young
dogs, but in old animals, especially if they have
been extensively used at stud for a long time,
it may arise from some constitutional cause.
The testicles become swollen, and the scrotum
is shiny and red. The dog suffers consider-
able pain and walks and sits down with diffi-
culty. Loss of interest in the excitement obtained
from use of a hot poultice and sometimes by
an ice bag, but the dog should be thoroughly
purged and placed on a light diet of milk, thin
soups, and dry biscuits.
In some cases the testicle enlarges, without
the inflammation and soreness. This condition
is nine times out of ten found in old dogs, and
unless the enlargement continues and if it does
not cause any great discomfort by hanging low
160 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
and interfering with the dog's actions, it may be left alone. The only positive cure is castration.
A dog used at stud often develops wart-like growths on the penis. These greyish lumps are often painful and should be promptly treated. A wash of two teaspoonfuls of common washing soda in half a pint of water sometimes effects a cure, but, if this fails, use a five per cent. solution of chromic acid, treating only one or two warts at a time.
CHAPTER IX
THE BROOD BITCH
T
HE dog breeder's estimation of the brood bitches of his kennels has changed materially in the present generation, swinging back to the opinion held before the era of bench shows and field trials. The first fanciers, who kept their dogs solely at hunting, dogged them, and neglected sufficiently the true value of quality in their ma-
turity. In early sporting books such statements as "select always the fairest and the best trail-
ers as dams" are common. Later, the idea became prevalent that "any old bitch with a pedigree is a good brood bitch." To-day, we have returned to the earlier and sounder estimation of the value of the bitch side of a pedigree.
We have already seen that although in the case of the breed at large the stud dog, because of his greater opportunities, is numerically more important, still in the case of the individual 183
162 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
mating this is not so. The two parents are equipotent and of like importance. In fact, to the breeder, the brood bitch, being his own property, while he usually sends her away to an outside dog to be bred, is of paramount importance.
I speak, of course, of a kennel that is primarily a breeding establishment — can be judged by its matrons. The breeder will, therefore, pay strictest attention to the selection of his brood bitches, and he will always exercise great care of their health and condition.
When a bitch is neither in season, in whelp, nor nursing a litter, she requires no different care from any other inmate of the kennels. To repeat the discussion of all the questions of feeding, kenneling, exercising, and grooming, which have been treated at length in the companion volume of this book, would be out of place here.
Many persons, even many persons who have owned dogs are, however, peculiarly ignorant of the sexual functions of a bitch. Owners of dogs advertised at public stud often receive bitches to be bred to their dog that evidence no sign of being "in heat," showing that an appreciation of the fact that a bitch is avail-
THE BROOD BITCH 163
able for breeding purposes only at certain times is not common.
, or the period of menstruation of the bitch, usually first appears when she is from seven to ten months old. The medium sized breeds usually have their first heat seven or eight months after birth, larger breeds and the very diminutive varieties often delay the period to the tenth month or even to a full year. Once the periods begin they occur with considerable regularity every six months (there are, of course, some individual exceptions to this rule), till a bitch is about eight years old.
From its first indication till its abatement the season of heat lasts three of four weeks. The first sign is a swelling of the external parts. This is followed by a slight mucus discharge, which gradually thickens, and is succeeded, in a week's time, by blood. This condition, which will continue for a week or ten days, is again followed by the mucus discharge which gradually disappears, the parts assuming their normal size again. The proper time to breed a bitch, in fact, the only time when she will stand for a dog, is just after the cessation of the flow of blood. This is the only time that she will re- ceive a dog's services, although her condition
164 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
from the first of heat sexually excites the male.
In sending a bitch away to be bred, since there are but a few days when she is available, it is wise to ship her off at the first signs of heat, thus avoiding disappointment and delay of six months.
During, or just after heat, inflammation of the uterine is sometimes caused by chill, usually the result of giving the bitch a bath. Such attacks may become chronic, appearing at each heat, and the condition is common only in old bitches. The symptoms are dullness and loss of appetite, accompanied by slight fever and followed by loss of flesh and swelling of the abdomen, which is quite hard and painful to the touch. These symptoms increase in severity, ending in a pinkish, offensive discharge.
The start of the discharge usually results in a marked improvement in the bitch's condition, but sometimes this discharge falls away rapidly. In such cases the uterus is ruptured, and the patient usually dies of acute peritonitis. The bitch should be kept quiet and every effort should be made to make her comfortable by applications of hot linseed poultices, frequently changed, to her abdomen. The vagina should be syringed out with a warm solution of lysol, and her strength should be
THE BROOD BITCH 165
kept up with milk, beef broth, fish, and such other light, nourishing foods as she can take and retain.
Much less dangerous, but far more common is a white mattery discharge after heat. The proper treatment is a thorough syringing night and morning with a solution of ten grains of bismuth alum in an ounce of water.
After a bitch has been bred, she needs no special attention during the first month or six weeks of her pregnancy. She should, of course, have plenty of exercise and an abun-dance of good food. This does not mean that she should be worked all day in the field nor allowed to run her legs off, nor should she be stuffed. If a bitch is properly kept, no change in her daily routine need be made, but it is advisable to see that her bowels are kept open by a weekly dose of castor oil and syrup of blackthorn. Three days after arrival she should receive treatment for worms. Some fanciers suppose that this will prevent worms in the puppies. It will not, but it is a valuable pre-cautionary measure, since no bitch that is infested with these parasites can properly assimilate her food.
The determination of whether or not a bitch is in whelp is often important. This can best
166 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
be accomplished about three weeks after con-
ception. At this time, if she be laid on her
back and quieted until she will relax her abdo-
men, small, roundish bodies can be felt by
the fingers manipulating her belly. Often the
exact number of the expected family can be
foretold. At four weeks the puppies seem to
disappear, but at six or seven weeks they
can be easily felt moving about, if the hand be gently but firmly pressed against the
abdomen. The secretion of milk in the
breasts, which occurs even in maiden bites,
six or eight weeks after heat, is no sure sign.
Some bitches will exhibit all of the signs,
except the motion of the pups, of pregnancy.
They increase in size, just as if they were to
have a large litter, but at the end of the time
of the supposed gestation only a little, watery
discharge comes away, and the bitch gradually
gets smaller. These cases of false conception
are provoking enough, and they are quite common.
Assuming that the service has been effective,
the bitch, six weeks after conception, will begin
to need a little extra watching and attention.
She should be fed three times a day from now
on, the best rule being little and often. Her
exercise should be kept up, but always within
THE BROOD BITCH 167
reason. Short walks two or three times a day should be the routine. Do not let her run and romp and keep her from all undue excitement. Do not wash her after the seventh week, and do not take her to a motor or on the train. This is bad for all of her health. It is poor policy to be forever dosing a pregnant bitch. The less medicine and the more common sense she has the better it is for her and for her expected offspring.
The bitch's time of gestation is sixty-three days. This, however, is not a hard and fast rule, though reference can always be made to the table in the appendix with the reasonable expectation that it will give approximately the date a bitch will be due. Live, healthy litters have been born on the fifty-eighth day and on at the other extreme on the seventy-first day but this is extremely exceptional. It is difficult to read the signs a bitch gives of her coming confinement, and one can usually know within a few hours of when she will whelp. She becomes restless, seeking a quiet place and refusing food. If a box has been prepared for her, as it should be, she will nervously get in and out of it, turning round and round, and nosing and scratching at the bedding. The vulpa swells and there is a thick mucus dis-
168 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
charge. When her labor pains come on, she will strain and pant, and turn round and lick herself. This is a sure sign that labor is well progressed, and the birth of a pup can be confidently expected in a very short time. If the birth is accidentally wrong, the bitch should be left strictly alone.
A proper whelping box, however, is easily prepared and will be a capital investment. This should be square, or nearly so, each side being just long enough for the bitch to be able to lay out at full length. A bit of old carpet lightly tacked at each corner is the best bedding; for second choice, a scanty supply of good wheat straw. A little shelf fastened round the sides of the whelping box, just high enough for a pup to get under, and broad enough to prevent him being crushed in case he should fall back, but mother must certainly lie on him, is excellent puppy life insurance. Even the most careful mothers will sometimes kill her babies in a cramped box, or if they are hidden in deep bedding.
The time required for the birth of a litter varies greatly, both with the age of the bitch and her breed and the number of puppies born. A bitch having her first litter must always be expected to require more time than a matron
THE BROOD BITCH 169
who has had two or three. A medium sized bitch who has had several litters will often give birth to two or three puppies within an hour, while a bitch of the same breed having her first litter will hardly have more than two litters in her "time". The bitches of the larger breeds commonly have big litters and often require all day. If after any pup has been born an interval greater than two hours elapses before the arrival of another, something may be wrong. Examine the bitch. If a bladder - the pups are born in a sack, the fetal membrane --- is protruding, things are probably going well. Matters should be allowed to take their natural course, for it is always a good rule never to interfere until absolutely necessary.
The normal course is for the bitch to rip the fetal membranes once it was protruded, and the puppies then to be delivered. The mother bites the umbilical cord and cleans and dries the puppy. Usually the next pup is by this time nearly born. After three or four youngsters have arrived, there is often an interval of a couple of hours, during which the bitch rests. At this time, some clean, cool water and a little thin oatmeal gruel may be given the bitch.
It is not unusual, especially when the litter
170 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
is very numerous, for a bitch to become very exhausted. A little milk with a tablespoonful of brandy will often revive her sufficiently, or it may be necessary to use drug to stimulate the action of the womb. Ergotine is the best of these, being administered typodynamically in a dose of one from one to three grains, according to the size of the dog, in from ten to forty drops of brandy. Injected under the loose skin under the thighs, the action of this drug is evident in fifteen minutes, and the dose can be repeated, if necessary, in two hours.
Those breeds with particularly large skulls, as English and French Bulldogs and Boston Terriers, often have trouble in whelping, the heads of the puppies being too large to pass the dam's pelvic bones. Toy dogs, quite aside from their more delicate conditions, sometimes suffer from this condition occasionally, a pup throwing back in size to the larger stock from which the variety has been bred. Another somewhat similar case is when a small bitch has been mated to a dog of a larger breed, as a Fox Terrier bred to a Setter.
Another class of parturition troubles arise from an unnatural position of the puppy at the time of delivery. The normal position for the
A diagram showing the correct and incorrect positions for a puppy during delivery.
THE BROOD BITCH 171
puppy to be born is head foremost with the front legs raised and lying close on each side of the neck. When the hind legs are presented, the pup is usually born easily, but there is some danger of its smothering. Malpresentation is more common than normal, but they are dangerous. To interfere, which is sometimes necessary, usually means the loss of the pup, which, if not killed, is often maimed. Moreover, unless care be exercised, inflammation may set in, resulting fatally for the dam. Therefore, the discovery of a malpresentation should always be the signal for a hurry call to a reliable veterinarian. If one is not available, prompt action should be taken by the breeder himself, since it is foolish to allow a bitch to waste her energies, which she will probably need to bring forth the other puppies.
In all such cases the first object should be to get the puppy into the right position. This failing, to remove it as quickly and easily, and with as little danger and inconvenience to the dam as possible, for her life is then of greatest consequence. If reasonable care be exercised to prevent sudden jerking, and if force is only exerted during the throes, a bitch will stand considerable pulling on the fetus. Inflammation
172 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
tion, resulting from direct injuries to the bitch herself are dangerous, and it requires a steady and skilful hand, especially when the knife must be used to manipulate forelegs over the body. A common form of obstruction is that the forelegs are turned down and backwards, throwing the shoulder girdle forward, thus forming an obstruction. A blunt pointed hook,—an ordinary long handled buttonhook will answer admirably,—should be used to catch the forelegs and lift them into better position. This done, the pup can usually be delivered by the bitch unassisted. Sometimes in head presentation the hind legs are bent forwards up against the belly, causing trouble. Without obstetrical forceps there is little the amateur can do in such cases. It is best to tie a string round the forelegs and bring them up at once, three-so, as to help pass the hind quarters. Another form of presentation that will sometimes cause trouble is when the front and hind foot appear simultaneously. The fore leg should be pushed in and the hind leg tied with a string or tape. The other hind leg should then be felt for and drawn out (the buttonhook may prove useful here). After securing the second hind leg, the puppy should be delivered by traction.
THE BROOD BITCH 173
There are two malpresentations of the head. In one case, the head is bent forward, the lower jaw pressing against the cheek so that the top of the skull is presented. The forehand should, if possible, be pinned back and efforts made to raise the nose either with the finger or a long handled hook inserted in the mouth of the pup.
When, on the other hand, the head is bent backwards, presenting the front of the throat, efforts should be made to push the focus back and depress the nose. If this fails, the pup can be decapitated, and the body and head delivered separately. In cases where the pup is presented transversely, the back or side appearing, it is seldom possible to turn the pup into a position making delivery possible. The only solution is to cut the body in two and forcibly remove the parts.
Considering the artificiality of their lives, it is remarkable what a small percentage of bitches ever have any trouble whelping. I have gone into parturition troubles at considerable length, for few easily available books treat of them, but the breeder can always console himself by remembering that they are comparatively rare occurrences.
After the litter has been born, if the case has been, as is to be expected, a normal one,
174 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
the dam needs but little attention. A good bowl of thin oatmeal gruel and a change of bedding will suffice for her immediate needs.
A breeder should curb his very natural desire to examine the new arrivals. Nothing is so disturbing to them and their mother. A nerv-
ous dam and a disturbed pup are a pretty poor foundation for good health. Sleep, plenty of sleep, is what the new born babies need most the first two weeks of their lives. Remember that "well begun is half done."
Bitches sometimes display strange idiosyn-
crasies of the maternal instinct. Some are so devoted to their offspring that they refuse food and water for days on end for their young ones.
Such extreme devotion must be forcibly con-
trolled, and the bitch at least required to take some exercise, even if she cannot be forcibley fed. Other bitches are almost indifferent to their family, and a few go to the extreme of refusing to allow them to suckle. Some bitches have been known to eat their new born pups, and this may develop into a regular habit.
Fear is the cause of this, and under more quiet conditions bitches have overcome this strange tendency. A diet of raw, lean meat, prior to whelping is advisable in such cases. It is a preventive measure that must, however, be sup-
THE BROOD BITCH 175
plemented by overcoming the bitch's nervousness.
While nursing her family, a bitch should be well fed. Four meals a day proves very satisfactory. Breakfast of soup and dog biscuits, and the regular kennel dinner in the evening, with milk or gruel at noon and the last thing at night: this makes a highly satisfactory fare. The fact that the puppies will roughly double their weight while they are nursing and that the recuperative processes carried on by the bitch herself are considerable gives some idea of the strain that she must bear. Adequate food is obviously a necessity.
The size of the litter is another factor which a bitch can raise to the best advantage is a question only to be settled by a consideration of the individual case, remembering at once the size of the bitch and her individual strength. Four is certainly the outside limit for any of the toys. Five is plenty for a dog of medium size like the Terriers. Six is about all that can be reasonably asked even of the largest varieties. It requires fortitude for a breeder to destroy puppies from a carefully selected mating. However, unless a foster mother can be provided for the surplus, it is wisdom so to do. Four to six strong, well nourished, healthy pups will be worth
176 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
more at six months than twice that number of sickly, leggy, slab-sided, cow hocked wrecklings. Often it is possible to obtain a foster from the local pound. The dog catchers are very apt to pick up stray bitches when their puppies are born. The points or breeding of the wet nurse have nothing to do with the care she can and will bestow on her adopted family, provided she is sound and healthy. Skin disease is to be particularly guarded against.
The saving of the dam's energies, when she is asked to raise only a reasonable number of puppies, is great, and this should be supplemented by the exercise of the same judgment in the case of the sire. Most breeders, since summer puppies are more easily reared, prefer to have their matrons whelp in the early spring. Some go so far as to never breed a bitch in the fall. It is certainly unwise to breed a bitch each time she comes in season. Three litters in two years is enough, and even this should only be asked of a robust bitch.
Whether or not a bitch should be bred at her first season is a debatable question. There is good authority on both sides. Personally, I believe it is a question that cannot always be answered either in the positive affirmative or the absolute negative. If the bitch is strong and
THE BROOM BITCH 177
well developed there is no reason, provided she does not come in before she is nine months old, why she should not be bred without damage to herself or risk to the puppies. However, it is unreasonable to expect to breed sound, healthy puppies from a bitch who has been ill.
Even a healthy bitch nursing a rational number of pups may sometimes have a scanty supply of milk. She must be given raw, lean meat and plenty of oatmeal gruel and fresh milk. The secretion should be stimulated by massaging the breasts. On the other hand, some bitches have an excessive supply of milk, evidenced by swelling of the breast, which becomes hard and painful. The milk should be drawn off night and morning, and a laxative dose of castor oil and syrup of buckthorn administered. The diet should consist of dry food — stale bread and dog biscuits are capital.
The teats of nursing bitches sometimes become dry and cracked. The soreness is great, and a bitch, because of the pain, will not allow the pups to suckle. The teats should be washed with warm water night and morning and then rubbed with a little boracic acidointment. In fact, even if there be no soreness, it is well to wash the nipples twice a day with a solution of boracic acid.
178 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
Weaning the puppies can be left to nature.
At five weeks old they will usually start lapsing
a little warm, sweetened milk. At six weeks,
their mother should only be with them at night.
At seven weeks they should be shifting for themselves.
After the puppies are weaned, the bitch
should be given a good purge and allowed a
week of rest cure with three good meals a day.
After this she should be treated for worms,
and then put back on the regular kennel fare
and routine. It may be advisable to give her
a dose of cod liver oil tonic morning and night
for a couple of weeks. The more promptly
she can be restored to normal conditions the
better it will be for her, and a breeder will
find that her care will be time and pains well
invested.
CHAPTER X
THE PUPPIES
B
Y their puppies you can judge the success of dog fanciers, for, although there are large kennels that cut a wide swath in the awards at the bench shows and field trials, still, unless they are producing a reasonable number of home bred winners, they are principally important in the development of the thoroughbred dog as furnishers of incentive for the true breeders. Their example of prizes won is stimulating; their financial support is even more valuable; but, as factors in the improvement of the variety in which they are interested, they are, it is to be regretted, often negligible.
Puppies, better puppies than ever before graced a bench or pointed a covey, are the goal of the dog breeder's ambition. Toward this end he always works. It seems strange then that, as a breeder, his work is finished before the puppies are born. The only point he
179
180 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
touches directly in the breeding of better puppies is in his selection. It is, of course, his will that determines which two of many possible individuals shall be mated, in other words, which units of heredity shall be combined. This is, as we have seen, a difficult and complicated task, and to make the best selection a breeder needs every help he can secure. Hence the great importance of a thorough knowledge of the breed and an intimate acquaintance with its bred and a sound understanding of the principles of heredity and variation. It is ignorance of these things, ably supplemented by carelessness and catch-penny methods, that makes "well bred bad dogs" a drug on the market.
Despite the fact, however, that the trend of modern biologic thought is to lighten the emphasis formerly placed upon the inheritance of acquired characteristics and to discount largely the influence of environment on physical structure still the practical breeder of dogs is very vitally interested in the breeding of his own home bred puppies. The most perfect litter of exceptional individuals ever whelped must be raised to have any value. The good pro-verbially die young, and to hear fanciers talk one gets the idea that the pick pup of every lit-
THE PUPPIES 181
ter ever whelped is invariably buried during infancy.
From every point of view, the first six months of a dog's life are the most important and critical in its individual development, and the first day is more important in inverted ratio than the two hundredth. Few fanciers seem to appreciate this. They usually consider that puppies are safe while nursing. In so much that they are less trouble and are less interfered with, this is in a measure true. The vast number of pups that die before their eyes are open, however, shows that this condition is more apparent than real. In raising a valuable litter then, a fancier should start the moment they are born.
Eat, sleep, and grow; this is the life of the puppies during the first two weeks of their existence. Every effort must be made to make this life as natural as possible. A bad beginning never makes a good ending in the rearing of young animals.
When a puppy is born, its mother will attend to its first toilet. However, since damp and chill are potent enemies of the young life, it will be wise to take it from its mother, when she has finished with it, dry it thoroughly and wrap it in warm flannel rags, putting it in and
182 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
dry, warm place. The mother will be so en-
gaged that she will not be disturbed and the
whole family can be re-united after the last of
the litter has been born. Since the naval cord
is sometimes the seat of an infection, this must
be treated with a solution of 1% boric acid, but
not more than 10 drops to a teaspoonful of
water. If the cord is being cut too soon, before
it is dry, it is well to wash off the cord with
a little tepid water in which is a mild solution
of some good disinfectant, peroxide of hydro-
gen or lysol are excellent, and to dust it with
boracic acid powder.
Many fanciers have had experience with an
apparently mysterious and almost universally
fatal disease popularly called the squeaks.
Puppies three or four days old suddenly lose
their appetites, become nervous and fidgity, and
are in apparent distress. They whine and squeak,
continually, in which symptoms they remain until
they receive its name. The abdomen swells at
first and is hard to the touch, but the puppies
eventually die, stretched out on their bellies
with a flat, crushed look. The immediate cause
is to be found in the bitch's milk, which, if
drawn off, will be seen to be greenish and
stringy, with a strong, sourish odor.
The final cause is intimately associated with
the condition of the dam prior to whelping. It
is a disease peculiar to cramped quarters, and
THE PUPPIES 183
the best means of prevention are attention to the bitch during her pregnancy. She must have plenty of exercise, and her bowels must be kept open. Some fanciers make a practice of milking a bitch after she has whelped and before the pups have suckled. This is advisable, since every possible preventive measure should be employed, there being no known cure for the disease once it has attacked the offspring.
If for any reason the dam cannot nurse her own puppies and a foster cannot be procured, it is quite possible to raise them by hand. This is an irksome task, but not difficult. The nipples of the bitch are very large, but the rubber nipple had best be substituted by one made of soft leather—an old glove answers admirably—in the end of which several holes have been pierced with a large pin. This leather nipple must be stuffed with a bit of sponge to give it form, for a pup in nursing wraps its tongue round the nipple. The nipples and bottles should, of course, be kept clean, boiling them out after each feeding.
A bitch's milk, contrary to popular opinion, is stronger than a cow's. The following analysis by A. J. Sewell, M.R.C.V.S., the well known English veterinarian, shows this difference:
Analysis by A.J. Sewell, M.R.C.V.S. |
A bitch's milk is stronger than a cow's milk. |
184 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
Sugar and Soluble Salts |
Bitch |
Cow's |
Sugar and Soluble Salts |
14.8 |
4.0 |
Cocoa Butter |
2.0 |
1.0 |
Water |
66.1 |
87.4 |
A bitch's milk, it appears, is about three times as concentrated as cow's milk, yet many fanciers dilute the latter when feeding pups. This is, of course, the exact reverse of the proper method. A fairly close approximation of bitch's milk can be prepared by taking a pint of cow's milk, adding to it four tablespoonsfuls of cream, a heaping teaspoonful of either Mel- len's or Eskay's baby foods, and six ounces of water. The prepared baby food should be mixed thoroughly with the water till a paste is made, and then added to the milk and cream and the whole brought to a boil, feeding when it has cooled to blood heat.
A bitch's milk can be prepared at a time, if kept tightly corked in clean bottles in the ice chest, and warmed by putting the nursing bottle in hot water just before feeding. Besides the obvious advantage of feeding artificial milk as close as possible to the composition of the pup's natural diet, the more concentrated food has the further advantage of furnishing adequate nourishment without the danger of overloading the small stomach of the young pup. Each
THE PUPPIES 185
pup should be allowed to suck the bottle ten minutes, and they will have to be fed every three hours, day and night. At three weeks old, the puppies will only require food every four hours, but they must be allowed to suck for fifteen minutes.
At five or six weeks the puppies should naturally begin the weaning process. By the time they are two months old they should be entirely independent of their mother. It is, however, best to leave this entirely to nature. Do not force matters. Their mother's milk is the best food pups can have, and so long as she will nurse them, they shall be allowed this advantage. The arrival of the youngsters' first teeth will soon enough force the dam to leave off nursing them.
The dog, like most mammals, has two sets of teeth. The first set, the milk teeth, are temporary; the second are permanent. There are twenty-eight milk teeth, and the permanent set, varying according to the breed, contains forty-two or forty-four. There are three different kinds of teeth: the incisors, twelve in number in each set, are in the front of the mouth and used for cutting and tearing; just behind the incisors are the canines or tusks, four in number; in the back of the mouth are the molars, twelve in
186 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
the milk set and seven on each lower jaw and six on each upper in the permanent set, heavy, strong teeth, used for crushing and grinding. Some short faced breeds, as Bulldogs, have only five upper and six lower molars in each jaw.
Usually puppies experience little or no trouble in cutting their milk teeth. The larger breeds cut these teeth earlier than the smaller, the center molar in the lower jaw usually appearing first about three weeks after birth. The upper incisors next appear, followed by the lower incisors and the tusks, after which the two lower molars will come through and then the upper ones, the front upper molar being the last of the milk set to make its appearance.
The process of dentation will take about two weeks, so a puppy of the larger breeds should be equipped with a set of temporary teeth by the time it is five weeks old, while pups of the smaller breeds will be a few days later. Bitch puppies generally cut their teeth a few days earlier than their brothers, and summer puppies may have their teeth a little earlier than winter pups of the same variety. This set of teeth is very soft, and by the time a pup is four months old the sharp edges will be worn
THE PUPPIES 187
smooth. This, together with the fact that the teeth are not set close and grow farther apart as the pup's jaw grows, furnishes a rough index to the age of the youngster.
At about four months old, a puppy begins to show signs of permanent teeth. The center upper incisors will be loose or out about this time, and the fourth upper molar is beginning to put in an appearance. The other upper incisors and then the lower ones are replaced and the permanent tusks begin to show through the gums. The back molars appear next and then the more forward ones; the upper teeth appearing earlier than the lower, the opposite of the order in the temporary set.
The teeth do not follow any set and regular order, but by the time a St. Bernard, a Great Dane, or a Mastiff is five months old he should have a complete set of permanent teeth. The Terrier has many smaller sized dogs, two or three weeks later, and a toy may not be through teething till seven or even eight months. During the cutting of these permanent teeth it pays to watch a puppy's mouth. One of the permanent teeth may come up beside a temporary one without forcing it out. If neglected, this will cause no end of pain and inconvenience, and, if long neglected, may even
result in a twisting of the permanent teeth. It is a simple thing to look into a pup's mouth every few days during the teething period and to see any loose teeth of the baby teeth.
A puppy is often brought in during the cutting of the permanent tooth. Eczema sometimes breaks out and the youngster's digestive tract is more than apt to be disarranged. Give a pup a thorough worming when he is three months old. It is a perfectly safe supposition that a puppy has worms, and it is the best insurance against stomach disorder, bowel troubles, and rickets to institute and follow a regular course of vermifuge. Three months is a good age to administer the first dose, and repeat it every three months till a dog is a year and has old, after that at least twice.
Any one who manufactures under the market by reliable firms will be found to be very effective, if the directions of the manufacturers are carefully followed. It is always advisable to do well what is worth doing at all, and the treatment should be repeated two or three days after the first dose. Thorough treatment for worms will forestall most of the teething troubles, but if the pup is upset, put him on a light diet and administer a dose of castor oil and syrup of buckthorn.
188 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
THE PUPPIES 189
Rickets is a disease peculiar to puppies, and, if the youngster gets through his teething, he is very apt to escape all possibility of this trouble. Few cases appear, and then only as a legacy of dismister, after a dog is six months of age. The bones become soft and the joints, especially those of the legs, swell; the forelegs are bowed and the hind legs are cow-hocked. Usually there is involuntary twitching and shaking, the pup is thin and pot belled, suffers considerable pain, and is altogether a miserable, pathetic object. The cause is worms, aggravated by improper food, lack of exercise, foul air, dampness, and lack of light and air. In extreme cases it is kindest and wisest to put the sufferer mercfully out of the way. If a cure is attempted — permanent cure is seldom achieved — the puppy must be treated heroically for worms and for bad food, with Fowler's solution of arsenic, or better still, cod liver oil tonic, after the formula recommended in the companion volume to this book, is valuable.
Many puppies have fits. Sometimes these occur during the cutting of the second teeth, but they are usually the result of worms with heat or super-excitement furnishing the immediate cause. The youngster, who has appar-
190 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
ently been quite well, suddenly crumples up, rolls about, kicking and champing its jaws, and frothing at the mouth. In a few seconds it will stagger to its feet, look about in a dazed manner, and then rush off, running round in circles, barking excitedly. Attack may follow attack in rapid succession and with increasing severity till the dog is dead.
First and foremost, one must remember that fits, as evidenced by these symptoms, have nothing whatever to do with rabies. Thousands of innocent dogs are slaughtered each year and hundreds of people are scared to distraction through this very silly mistake. The bite of a dog in a fit is absolutely harmless, and one can secure him without any fear. This should be done, and he must be restrained from hurting himself in his frenzies. A sponge or large cloth, soaked in cold water, should be used on the head, and he left in a dark room. Talk to him and pet him gently. Do whatever you can to quiet him. After the fit has disappeared, the dog should be kept on a light diet of milk and thin broth for a couple of days and then treated for worms.
There are three minor operations that some breeders are called upon to perform upon their dogs.
THE PUPPIES 191
The terriers, except the Scottish Terrier, and the spaniels, except the Irish Water Spaniel, are docked. This is best done when the puppy is four or five days old. The skin should be drawn down away from the body as far as possible, so it will be able to grow on and cover the stump of the tail, and the tail cut off cleanly with a sharp knife. It is best to keep the pups away from the mother for half an hour or more, until the active bleeding has stopped. This, however, is seldom serious, and it can be readily checked by an application of tincture of perchloride of iron. It is not a bad plan to wash off the wound with a mild solution of disinfectant. It is customary to leave about three-fifths of a Fox Terrier's tail and something more than half of the tails of the other Terriers. The sporting Spaniels have a little less than half of their tails left and the toys about a third.
Cropping is not quite so easy, but the emplacement of the steel clips, sold by kennel supply houses for this purpose, makes it a surer and simpler operation than formerly. The clips should be fastened securely to the ear in the correct position, and the part of the ear outside the metal cut out quickly and cleanly with a sharp razor. Cocaine is sometimes used as a
192 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
local anesthetic, but this is hardly necessary, for the pain is very slight. Cropping had best be done when a pup is nine or ten months old, and the proper training of the ear after cut is all-important, if a correct carriage is to be in- duced. The ears generally fails dismally, and he should, if possible, receive a few practical lessons from a com- petent man, or else send his dogs to such a one to be cropped. Surgeon's plaster, wax, and even plaster of Paris are employed to fasten the ears back across the skull, so that when re- leased they shall stand smartly erect.
Puppies are sometimes born with extra claws, dew claws, on the inside of their legs. These whether they be on the front or back legs, should be removed four or five days after birth, by cutting them off clean, close to the leg, with sharp scissors. This is an almost painless and bloodless operation.
The troubles of puppyhood are almost without exception the result of improper quarters, dirt, poor or badly selected food, or worms.
With a very little reasonable attention, there is not a reason in the world why the average pup should not be "disgustingly well." Growing youngsters demand room and light and fresh air. They must have adequate food. They
THE PUPPIES 193
cannot thrive if infested with worms. Remember these things and the problem of raising puppies successfully is solved for you.
It is, however, true that no matter how roomy and light your kennels be, nor how large their runs, nor how careful you are of what goes into the pups' stomachs: they will do better on a farm. This being so, it is well, if possible, to make an effort to find reliable partners with whom you can rear your youngsters between six and eight months of age. This English custom, and it is a great factor in the success of the British kennels, is one that is based on years of experience, and we in America should make every effort to establish it in this country. It will be an important factor in the rearing of better puppies.
104 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
DOG BREEDING CALCULATOR SHOWING
JAN |
MAR |
APR |
MAI |
SEP |
DEC |
Start |
End |
Start |
End |
Start |
End |
15 |
15 |
3 |
3 |
3 |
3 |
8 |
8 |
3 |
3 |
3 |
3 |
5 |
5 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
2 |
2 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
-10 |
-10 |
-10 |
-10 |
-10 |
-10 |
-20 |
-20 |
-20 |
-20 |
-20 |
-20 |
-30 |
-30 |
-30 |
-30 |
-30 |
-30 |
-40 |
-40 |
-40 |
-40 |
APPENDIX
195
DATE DUE TO WHELP AFTER SERVICE.
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
Sep. |
Oct. |
WHELP |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Served |
Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. | Sep. | Oct. |
---|
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 |
Sep. 2023 (Month) |
Sep. 2023 (Day) |
Sep. 2023 (Hour) |
Sep. 2023 (Minute) |
Sep.& Oct.& Nov.& Dec.& Jan.& Feb.& Mar.& Apr.& May.& Jun.& Jul.& Aug.& Sept.& Oct.& Nov.& Dec.& Jan.& Feb.& Mar.& Apr.& May.& Jun.& Jul.& Aug.& Sept.& |
Sep. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. Jun. Jul. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May
|
Sep. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May
|
...127
198 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
good--and G. Archibald Reid's "The Laws of Heredity," is a valuable treatise on breeding in man.
GENERAL (BREEDING).
By far the best work known to scientific breeders is "Prin-
ciples of Dog Breeding" by J. D. Daventry, a clear and complete exposition of the scientific and practical material.
More directly treating of the problems of dog breeding is C. H.
Marple's "The Management of the Stud Dog" and "The Management of the Brood Bitch," by Theob. Marples are valuable little books.
GENERAL WORKS ON DOGS.
In addition to the above work treating the kineries and points of various breeds is James Watson's "Book of the Dog," a popular one volume edition of which is now pub-
lished in two volumes, containing all the information con-
tions of the original two volume edition. "Modern Dogs,"
in four volumes, two devoted to sporting dogs, one to terriers,
one to hounds, and one to other breeds, is a very well written, authentic work, and "The Twentieth Century Dog"
is a very interesting book, giving a very valuable and valu-
ably valuable compilation of the opinions of many experienced owners. The Kennel Encyclopedia, edited by J. Sleder
and published in 1907, contains much valuable information on
by I. Blanford's "Dogs of All Nations" (a vol.) is a profusely illustrated work giving, in four languages (English, French,
German, Italian), a complete account of all the recognized
breeds, many of which are not even mentioned in the Eng-
lish and American works.
There are also several of the most important monographs on the more popular breeds. Those books published in Ameri-
can with a star (*):
Sporting Dogs.
* * * The Sporting Dog," Joseph A. Graham.
* * * The Sporting Dog," George W. H. Hare.
* * * "Bloodhounds," Major E. H. Richardson.
* * * "Scottish Deerhounds and their Masters," George Cuppen.
* * * "Hounds and Hound (Foxhounds)," Joseph Thomas Williams.
* * * "Horse and Hound (Foxhounds)," General Roger Will-
iams, M.F.H.
A page from a book about dog breeding.
BIBLIOGRAPHY 199
* * *The Foxhound*, General Roger Williams, M.F.H.
* * *The American Fox Hound*, Halden C. Trigg, M.F.H.
* * *The Beagle*, edited by Rene B. Cole.
* * *The Beagle*, edited by John Rixon.
* * *Sporting Spaniel*, Cane and Phillips.
* * *The Cocker Spaniel*, Eugene Glass.
* * *The Cocker Spaniel*, James Farrow.
* * *The Cocker Spaniel*, James Farrow.
* * *The Chukker Spaniel*, James Farrow.
* * *The Pointer and his Predecessors*, William Armstrong.
**TERRIERS**
**Terriers**, edited by Harding Cox.
**The Terrier**, Holland Buckley.
**The Airedale**, Williams Haynes.
**The Airedale Terrier**, F. M. Joweit.
**The Airedale Terrier**, F. M. Joweit.
**The Bull Terrier**, Williams Haynes.
**The Perfect Fox Terrier**, Sidney Caste.
**The Perfect Fox Terrier**, revised by J. Maxtone.
**The Fox Terrier**, Williams Haynes.
**The Fox Terrier**, Rawdon B. Lee.
**The Fox Terrier**, Rawdon B. Lee.
**The Scottish Terrier**, W. L. Macandlish, with a chap-
ter on **The West Highland White Terrier**, by B. W. Pow-
er.
**Scottish and Irish Terriers**, Williams Haynes.
**Scottish and Irish Terriers**, Williams Haynes.
**The West Highland White Terrier**, Holland Buckley.
Non-Sporting Dogs
* * *Great Danes, Past and Present*, Meirrell Mackenzie.
* * *The Collie*, Hugh Daidel, revised by J. Maxton.
* * *Shetland Sheepdog*, Maxton.
* * *The Useful Collie*, W. A. Sargent.
* * *The Useful Collie*, W. A. Sargent.
* * *Show Bulldogs*, Sidney H. Decson.
* * *Bulldogs and Bulldog Men*, H. St. John Cooper.
* * *Bulldog and the Terrier*, Vaturn Mont, M.D., revised by
Williams Haynes.
* * *The Boston Terrier*, Edward Axell.
* * *The Whippet and Race Dog*, Freeman Lloyd.
200 PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING
*Manual of Toy Dogs,* Mrs. Leslie Williams.
*Toy Dogs,* Mrs. Handley Spicer.
*English Toy Spaniels,* Mrs. Lillian Raymond-Mallock.
*English Toy Spaniels,* Mrs. M. H. Lytton.
*Show Pomeranians,* Miss L. Ives.
*The Yorkshire Terriers,* *Our Dogs*
A list of dog breeds with their authors.
INDEX
[API_EMPTY_RESPONSE]
INDEX
Abortion, ten causes of bitches to 10; causes and prevention of, 107;
Acute diseases, hereditary, an external cause of variation, 60; defined, 83-84; less liable in inheritance than formerly, 153;
Adventuring a stud dog, 133 seq.
Airedale Terrier, 18, 21, 26, 60, 78, 100, 122, 113, 116, 143, 153;
Agricultural stations, practical work in breeding done by, 14;
American breed dogs, beaten by importations, 29;
Artificial insemination, a new method of breeding, 100;
Artificial selection, compared with natural, 50 seq.; definite limits to, 55;
Artificially "lazy" ideas of x; observed by dog breeders, 25;
Batson, quoted, 21;
Beagle, 34; 35.
Bibliography, 197 seq.
Birds and their use in practical breeding, 24-25; agree on evolution, 33; example of help from, 124;
Blindness, fault to be shunned, 203; a result of continued inbreeding, 204
Books on dogs, valuable to breeder; 27; list of, 198 seq.
Breeding system, the importance of the one adopted by the breeder; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; the breeding system of the Airedale Terrier; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205; 205
Breeding systems, 136 seq.; every breeder has his own, xx6;
six basic, xx7: figure, xxxiii-xxxvii: alternate genera-
tion method (xxxiv), xxxvii: cross-breed method (xxxvi),
the fashionable (xxxviii): eugenic (xxxix); see also
inbreeding, out-breeding, line-breeding.
Branch breed, a valuable guide to service, xx9: proper
conditions for service, xx17: modern high regard for,
xx64.
204
INDEX
period of heat, 651; period of gestation, 657; 823; care at time of whelping, 170; care when nursing, 173; how often to breed, 176.
Castration, 158.
Cells, whole body a colony of, 51; structure of, 56-57; divi-
sion of cells in germ, 359; reduction in germ, 44-45.
Champion, bred in first litter, 59; his brother honored, 20;
must be sound, 51; fleshish worth of, 80; a strain of, 93;
is object of breeding, 170; breeding by cross-breed-
ing two breeds, 137-143; Airedale studied statistically,
147-142; not always best sire, 145.
Characteristics of strain, transmission of, 245; intensified by
inbreeding, 99.
Chessie, champion, 170.
Cost, variation in: 52; affected by climate, 60; Mendelian in-
heritance of Fox Terriers, 79.
Colours, black and tan, 170.
Colors, study in coat and eye: 78; of Boston Terriers, 208; of
eyes and coats probably Mendelian, 212-223; rule for breeding dogs with white markings, 213.
Condeh, Ralph W., quoted on Airedale bloodlines, 100-101;
family tree of Airedales prepared by, 217.
Cross-breeding: importance of, 69; necessity of, 70;
cross-breeding: failure without variation, 49; only could pro-
duce some results, 53; by Mendel, 75.
Cunningham, Duncan on Sky Terrier standard, 20.
Dam, as important as sire, 83; 99; the theoretically ideal, 223;
importance of in figure system of breeding, 133; valiableness when used as dam in cross-breeding with other breeds,
significance of importance of, 164; care during pregnancy, 265;
care at whelping, 170; perversion of maternal instincts,
79-82.
Darling, Dr. C. G., on eye color, 78.
Darwin, books best known to fanciers, 23; theory of natural
selection. The Origin of Species. Essay on Inbreeding cited by, 98; on de-
terioration of dogs in India, 59.
INDEX
Davenport, Professor; causance among dog fanciers made by, 37; modes in rotting of pedigree, 14-15; Davis, C. J., on figure system of breeding, 135 seq.; Deafness, a fault to be blamed, 103.
De Vries, on mutation, 86; on Mendelian inheritance, 73; Dew claws, removal of, 192.
Dog, a domesticated animal, 139.
Docking, 191.
Dog Book, quoted, 25.
Dog's head, so-called scientific, 15; has a comparatively easy task, 17; necessary equipment of, 19 seq.; re-quantitative theory of, 26-28; 144; rewards of, 29; must know fundamentals of heredity, 29; a spectator of heredity and variation, 83; eye for live-bearer, 97; is a true sportsman, 108; his best friend, 115.
Dog breeding, a sport, 44; true object of, 18; puppies are not always the best offspring, 106.
Dominance in Mendelian inheritance, 76.
Drag of the race, see Regression.
English Bulldog. 54. §9. 92. 99. 270.
Evolution, Darwin's theory of, 30 seq.; belief in, 35; frequent errors in its application to horse and quagga, 57.
Factors of inheritance combined in sexual reproduction, 43; different combinations assured by reduction, 46; remain pure when crossed, 80; complete set in each parent, 82. Fertilization process of described, 99; complicated from defects, 103; hindered, hard to proceed with, 133. Fertility, important to breeders; can not always be main-tained by artificial means proceeding with fertilization. Fertilization, process of described, 38 seq.; in plants, 68.
Fits, 489.
Fleas on human beings, puppies born in, 169.
Food, effect of in natural selection; proper for a stud dog, x50; proper for a nursing bitch, 175; artificial for puppies, x74.
Foster mother, x76.
Index |
Page Number |
Davenport |
37 |
Davenport |
14-15 |
Davenport |
135 seq. |
Davenport |
103 |
De Vries |
86 |
De Vries |
73 |
De Vries |
192 |
Dog book |
25 |
Dog's head |
15 |
Dog's head |
26-28 |
Dog's head |
144 |
Dog's head |
29 |
Dog's head |
29 |
Dog's head |
83 |
Dog's head |
97 |
Dog's head |
108 |
Dog's head |
115 |
Dog breeding |
44 |
Dog breeding |
18 |
Dog breeding |
106 |
Dominance in Mendelian inheritance, |
76. |
Dominance in Mendelian inheritance, | 76. | Drag of the race, | see Regression. | English Bulldog. | 54. §9. 92. 99. 270. | Evolution, | Darwin's theory of, | 30 seq. | Evolution, | belief in, | 35; | Evolution, | frequent errors in its application to horse and quagga, | 57. | Factors of inheritance combined in sexual reproduction, | 43; | Factors of inheritance combined in sexual reproduction, | different combinations assured by reduction, | 46; | Factors of inheritance combined in sexual reproduction, | remain pure when crossed, | 80; | Factors of inheritance combined in sexual reproduction, | complete set in each parent, | 82. | Fertilization process of described, | 99; | Fertilization process of described, | complicated from defects, | 103; | Fertilization process of described, | hindered hard to proceed with, | 133. | Fertility, | important to breeders; | Fertility, td colspan="2">can not always be main-tained by artificial means proceeding with fertilization. | Fertilization process of described: |
---|
Fertilization process of described: |
In plants: |
68. |
Fits: |
x89. |
Fleas on human beings: |
Puppies born in: |
x69. |
Food: |
effect of in natural selection: |
x70; |
A proper for a stud dog: |
x50; |
A proper for a nursing bitch: |
x75; |
A artificial for puppies: |
x74. |
Foster mother: |
x76. |
|
|
|
|
|
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Index Davenport Professor: causance among dog fanciers made by, 37; modes in rotting of pedigree, 14-15; Darwin,C.J., on figure system of breeding, 135 seq. Deafness,a fault to be blamed, 103. De Vries,on mutations, 86; on Mendelian inheritance, 73. Deew claws ,removal of, 192. Dog,domesticated animal, 139. Dog Book,, quoted, 25. Dog's head,socalled scientific, 15;17;19 seq. ;re-quantitative theory of, 26-28; 144; rewards of, 29; must know fundamentals of heredity, 29; |
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