Raleigh AT20 series bottom bracket affects derailleur

I'm assuming this is a 3 piece Shimano sealed-cartridge square-taper style bottom bracket, since you didn't provide any further info, and that fits the price/style/vintage of that bike. (for more on bottom bracket styles, read the always useful Sheldon Brown site). Additionally, how is the derailleur out of adjustment? Is it a cable tension issue? Is it not a front derailleur position (yaw, height) issue from getting moved during the operation?

Assuming you did not alter the position of the front derailleur, and following my assumption of the BB type, you probably did not install your bottom bracket properly as @Hicks was getting at. Most 3 piece bottom brackets have 2 cups with the threading, and the bearing/spindle set itself which fits inside the cups. (If not, the drive-side threading is probably fixed to the bearing/spindle assembly (but also possibly not)). These bottom brackets are generally larger than the bottom bracket shell of the frame (depending on manufacturer), which means the bottom bracket's threading will be protruding from at least one side of the bike. If the drive-side of the crank spindle protrudes further from the bottom bracket shell than it should, your front derailleur will always be off by that distance.

When installing the bottom bracket, you must fully thread the drive side first so that it matches flush with the bottom bracket shell of the frame. Then you can thread the non-drive side (for further instructions, see Park Tools Guide. Re-attach crank-arms, recombombulate bicycle, etc.

After following this process, your front shifting may still be off--the factory or mechanic that built your bike may have adjusted the front derailleur with the bottom bracket not fully-threaded in on the drive side. If it's still not shifting correctly I'd suggest learning to adjust your front derailleur, because that's a much more worthwhile endeavor than trying to improperly install the bottom-bracket exactly as it was when you got it/had it repaired last.


base training with or without added energy?

Let me expand on the answer provided by @Mac. There are two important concepts here that need to be unpacked, 1) endurance training when in a fasted state and 2) eating either before or during an endurance training ride.

If your goal is improved fat metabolism, endurance training in a fasted state (e.g., 8 hours without food, no eating during exercise) shows larger gains than training under a fed state (i.e., eating either before or during exercise).  Eating carbohydrates at any point inhibits fat metabolism, if improving fat metabolism is your goal, then this is bad.

That said, I am also skeptical that prioritizing fat metabolism should be your training goal.  See below for more details.

Background

The goal of base (endurance) training is typically to improve the metabolic efficiency and recruitment of your type 1 muscle fibres, the muscle fibres type with the greatest ability to perform endurance work.  Training must be done by using slow long rides (typical heart rate zone 2).  The low effort ensures most pedal force is generated by type 1 fibres and because type 1 muscle fibres generate the energy largely through fatty acid oxidation, your activity will be mostly powered by fat metabolism.  If you start heading out of zone 2 (harder effort) you will recruit more of your type 2a muscle fibres and start using glycogen and blood glucose to fuel muscle contraction (note some blood glucose is used even during fat metabolism, this point is important, see the bonking section) as well as accumulate a lactate debt (your mitochondria in your muscles will no longer be able to process the lactate within, dumping lactate into your blood stream).

Endurance training in a fasted state.

A large number of  studies (e.g., De Bock 2005, De Bock 2008, and Van Proeyen 2010) have show that consistent training in a fasted state (i.e., glycogen depleted state) can resulted in an increased capacity for muscles (type 1 and some evidence for type 2a) to oxidize fatty acids and as well as other health benefits (e.g., insulin response/glucose tolerance, reduced weight gain under higher energy diets) and other performance benefits (e.g., faster glycogen resynthesis see De Bock 2005).

These same fat metabolism benefits were not obtained by individuals who were well fed with carbohydrates both before and during the exercise.  The fasted individuals had abstained from eating for 8 hours prior to the exercise regime and did not eat during.

Depending on the study individuals exercised between 1-2 hours at an output of about 175 W.  This part is key as the studies used shorter periods than the 2+ hours for your training plan.

Fat metabolism actually requires glucose to prime the reaction.  If you ride too long in the fasted state you will eventually run the risk running out of blood glucose you will feel the sensation called "hitting the wall" or "bonking."  Low blood glucose levels also affects neurological functioning, you can become light headed and will have trouble focusing.  Your muscle firing patterns will also deteriorate.

As such you need to be very careful if trying to do prolonged endurance training in a fasted state.  The participates in the science experiments where carefully monitored during both the exercise and the recovery periods.

Eating while exercising?

This gets us to your primary question of whether or not to eat.  If you are aiming to train in a fasted state, eating during exercise will also inhibit the prioritization of fat metabolism (De Bock 2008).  This will be the same if you ingest carbohydrates prior to your ride.

Therefore if you want to maximize fat metabolism, exercise in zone 2 in a fasted state and don't eat carbohydrates either before or during.

Eating before exercise, but not during.

I haven't found any studies that test eating a meal before training, but riding without food (please correct me if I missed a study).  I suspect when you start out your body will prioritize glycogen, the switch to fat as your stores run low.  I am not clear how efficient the transition will occur or if you increase the probability of bonking.  Even if your body successfully made this transition, you would still have a smaller window of prioritized fat metabolism and therefore lower gains.

General Advice / Caveats

In my opinion training in a fasted state is an advanced technique that should be done  carefully and under supervision and restricted to pro/elite athletes who know their body well and can intercept when something is going wrong (e.g., deterioration of muscle firing efficiency, bonking, etc).  If you insist on attempting to training in a fasted state, I suggest caring energy gels and food so that you can intervene if you start to bonk.

In terms of improving your fat metabolism, the theory is that this could help you reduce glycogen consumption during a race leaving you with more energy later in the game when decisive tactical maneuvers are often made.  While I am sure this is true, I think it may be over emphasized for most amateur athletes.

You can also maintain your glycogen stores simply by regularly consuming carbohydrates during a race (see Coyle et al 1986).  If you are at a Pro / Cat 1 level then better fat metabolism could give you an additional edge, but I am highly sceptical that athletes below this level will see real benefits over improved training volume and improved focus during training.  Both of these will be inhibited in a fasted state.


As people already mentioned in the comments, it's old good Kona Stinky. For me this is a symbolic bike, Paul Bassagotia, one of the pioneers of the freeride scene, used to ride on it before moving to Scott. You can find more detail on specs it had here: http://www.konabikeworld.com/08_stinky_w.htm

And here we can see Kona's older catalogue, including older Stinkies http://www.konabikeworld.com/tech/catalog/catalog_2k4.htm


Still skipping cogs when shifting after indexing and replacing shifter

The cage and it's pulley wheels look fairly straight up and down...so close that it shouldn't be an issue with shifting, although this is a game of millimeters and one can't absolutely rule out an alignment issue from a single photo.  One thing I do notice is that the photo appears to show the upper, jockey wheel doesn't  seem to be directly under the cog the chain is on.  If this is true, than the system is not properly indexed. The guide pulley (jockey wheel) should  run right beneath the the selected cassette cog.  The barrel adjuster should be manipulated to get that in position (after appropriate shift tension is demonstrated by shifting successfully from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3).  Specifically, here you would loosen (counter clockwise rotation)  the barrell adjuster which tightens the inner cable causing the derailleur to move more inside where it will line up underneath the cog the chain is on.  Obviously you'll want to make sure that the shifter is at the correct detente correlated to that gear.  The limit screws will be set by now, but it's not unheard of to adjust the H or L screw by an ⅛ turn if there is trouble encountered when shifting to the extreme most cogs on each end of cassette.
You need also to evaluate the wear situation of chain and cogs. If the chain is worn (stretched) significantly, it will begin to ride over the teeth of the worn cog. This may be exacerbated by increased tension on the chain when peddling hard.  Ghost shifting is also a symptom of wear and/or excess friction in the cable system (many causes).  Look also to compatibility issues. The shifter and rear derailleur should be the same brand in most all situations: Shimano with Shimano, SRAM with SRAM. The cable actuation ratios of the 2 manufacturers' rear derailleurs are different and their shifters' cable pull differs because of this. As a result, mixing brands of shifters with the other guy's derailleur causes shifting to be very quirky.  Any rear derailleur marketed as a 7, 8, or 9 speed will work with the 7 speed shifter (which I assume you are using) as long as they're the same brand.


Bike trainer skewer does not fully seat into depth of mounting cup, is that an issue?

I bought a new skewer for my trainer...the one the manufacturer sells. The two ends fit nicely into the cup.

You’ll notice that I had to stack 3 washers in the other end. The skewer was poking out the other end too much and the cup would not seat all the way in.


With Shimano STI brake lever and shifter combos, you have two options for where a barrel adjuster is placed.

An inline barrel adjuster can be placed on the cable housing, between where it leaves the handle at and the frame. This is more common with the shift cables than the brakes, but it is possible.

At the point where the cable enters the brake caliper.


I ran into this exact problem. In my case, it was buying 9-speed chain for an 8-speed drivetrain— I didn't realize backward compatibility was an issue.


Can I install a disc-brake pannier rack on a bike with V-brakes?

Disc rack isn't an exact term. It means the rack will probably be a bit wider and make some effort to clear a disc fitted to the rear hub.
Disc model arms are brought on so the rack supports will be less likely to foul a disc :

Vs.

They both are essentially the same thing and the main thing is that new and old frame has the mounting points shown in the image:

If it lacks these then a rack will be more difficult to install. Some new bike frames will not be built to take racks. So buying a disc type rack doesn't guarantee compatibility. However it's more likely to fit.


Converting from square spline to external bearings, what do I need to know?

You actually guessed the only thing that you really need to watch out for: the BB shell width. And you don't even necessarily need that until you're actually putting it all together. Almost all BB shells are 68 or 73 mm. Most of the external BB's come built for a 73 mm shell and include a spacer for a 68 mm shell.

The odds are really really good that the threads and diameter coform to the British I.S.O. standard. If you have reason to think that your bike is non-standard, I'd recommend taking it to a shop and they can tell you what you need.

Unless your mountiain bike is a single speed, you don't need to worry about chainline. They're pretty standard and a derailleur adjustment will take care of any deviation from your current setup. If it is single speed, the BB isn't where you'll be looking to get that right. It's not like a cartridge-style BB where you can just get a different length spindle. Instead, you move the chain rings to the inner or outer side of the spider and/or mess with spacers in the rear wheel.


Not sure I'd call that a clutch.... ;) More a freewheel.

I have done jobs like this in the past, and I found using a Lithium Grease (very thin, textured a bit like facial cream) works great, so long as you only line it on the teeth.

On the one I had, however, it had a seal which meant there was no way the grease could get out. Something important to note is that, if you DO have one of these with a seal on them, don't competely fill it with grease. Where you have moving parts, you want a void and a way for it to 'breathe', otherwise the seal will physically pop. You want more air than grease; Air is compressible, grease (classed as a liquid) is not.

If it's not sealed, only a very thin layer. It's purpose is to keep it lubricated and to keep the teeth themselves clean and not directly contacting metal-on-metal, a bad thing in an electric motor which moves very fast under heavy load. If you use too little, the gears will chew each other up, making what little grease there is turn into a grinding paste. Too much grease, and it'll start blurting out of the side, onto other vital, expensive components.

Good luck!


Why are 36-spoke wheels a touring thing?

Summing up comments into an answer, including a few points of my own:

More spokes are stronger; more holes in the rim weaken it. So a sweet spot must be found.

Standard numbers are good, for hole count and spoke gauge

Tourers have to keep going a long way from support, so durability counts (see also brakes); a little extra weight on a laden bike makes little difference unlike in a race.

One broken  or loose spoke in 36 doesn't make the wheel go as far out of true  as one in 32. I'd already experienced this on my hybrid; on the tourer I broke 2 rear drive side outer spokes (damaged in an incident with the chain) and still got home with a nearly true wheel.

Although materials have improved, touring is a conservative discipline in which there's no imperative to change what works.

Touring can mean sitting and spinning over rough roads for hours on end with a lot of weight on the frame.  In CX most of the weight is above the suspension formed by the rider's legs and the rider can stand as required.


Can hand brake levers be pulled hard enough on a comfort/cruiser handlebar?

You will have no problem with the brake levers. The force you apply to the levers is between your fingers on the lever and the palm of your hand on the bar grip, so the angle of your hand with respect to you body does not matter very much.

If you want to convince yourself, sit on your bike, turn the handlebars slightly so the bar is at an angle less than 90° to the axis of the bike and squeeze the brake lever.


15T Freewheel Which Works on Flip Flop Hub

The normal freewheel thread is too large for cogs smaller than 16T. One source for the information is Sheldon Brown's singlespeed page. It is a good one to read before buying any more parts.

A BMX flip flop hub will, however, take smaller freewheels that have smaller thread. Fixed/free flip flop hubs have the larger freewheel thread and similar sized thread with lock ring thread on the other side, these do not work with small freewheels.


How feasible is it to transfer modern (2010) components to a 90s frame (road bike)

It is possible to make the switch, but there are a few components that probably won't be an even swap. This will depend on the vintage of the frame you're planning on using (and it really should be steel as aluminum doesn't age gracefully). Since I have a steel 1992 Bridgestone RB-T, I'll use it as an example.

The headset on your bike is most certainly 1 1/8" threadless, while the headset on an older bike will be 1" threaded. You will have to use a threaded fork and a quill stem. You may find it tricky to locate a quill stem to fit your handlebars if they have a larger clamp diameter (older bikes commonly use 25.4mm and 26.0mm bars).

Wheel size won't be an issue. 27" wheels have an ISO diameter of 630mm while 700c wheels have an ISO diameter of 622mm (4mm smaller at the rim). You'll want to make sure that your brake calipers reach the rim squarely, but that will depend on the frame. It really shouldn't be an issue unless you decide to run 650b wheels (which have many virtues).

A bigger problem may be fitting your rear wheel in the frame. Presumably your rear hub as an O.L.D. of 130mm (i.e. 130mm wide). Most older frames (such as mine) have 126mm dropout spacing to accomodate 6 or 7 speed freewheels. There are resources on re-spacing your dropouts by bending the stays (this is only possible on steel frame bikes.) Alternatively, you could buy a freewheel rear wheel, but then you'd have to futz with your indexed drivetrain and that's no fun.

You'll want to make sure that you use the bottom bracket length specified for your crankset which may require removing the old bb components from your new(old) frame. With the right tools it shouldn't be difficult.

Those few things will be your bigger obstacles. There may be one or two other small things, but they'll be easy to work around. If you're serious about this, also consider that there are a great many steel frames from the 80s that are worth the effort.


What's the strongest way to bond a cable stop to an aluminum frame?

Since you have a relatively "flat" spot there (at least flat in the longitudinal direction) you have two options:

You can epoxy on a replacement boss

I did this on a recent Al frame with the exact same problem. I bought a metal (steel) cable boss from the local bike builder and epoxied it myself. I used Loctite's Metal/Concrete epoxy since it's designed for:

machinery, appliances, tools, lawnmowers, automotive components, pipes, embedding bolts and screws into metals, concrete or stone and sealing electrical components against moisture and vibration

Although lots of other epoxies will probably work.

If you do this be sure to read the instructions on the epoxy, clean the surfaces on both parts, and create a good clamp for the piece. It'll take 24 hours to dry fully and you aren't going to achieve good results by holding it with your hands.

Once's it's dried be sure to test it by attaching whatever brake/derailleur the boss is for(in your case the rear derailleur) and running cable through it. You need to be sure that the epoxy will hold the forces that will actually be applied by the brake/derailleur** Don't expect your results to look pretty though.

you can rivet on an replacement boss

There are many options here depending on what type of cable stop you need.

You could easily do this your self but you'll likely end up with a rivet gun and a box of 100 rivets you'll never use again (on a bike at least).

Whatever method you chose, I'd suggest completing it before any of the rest of your bike build (I'm guessing from the missing front end that you're rebuilding this bike). If you can't get it fixed you might have to scrap (or at least rethink) the project and you don't want to waste any money on other parts until you know for sure.

Regarding welding:

Aside from the heat issue of welding aluminum, you'll also have a tough (impossible?) time finding someone who can weld a steel boss onto an aluminum frame. Or you'll have an impossible task of finding an aluminum boss to use instead. Think about it.. there's a reason the manufacture glued the boss on in the first place.

** Be extra careful if you are repairing a brake boss. It holds more force and obviously has more dire consequences if it breaks off again.


What are some alternatives to fruitlessly ringing my bell at a motorist?

I'd go for the air-horn, for example the AirZound.

It is my opinion that screaming and yelling (the primal scream) can cause a lot of unnecessary social distress, and is not a good alterntive for traffic communication and signalling under normal conditions. It ends up being more effective when you're in "panic" as said, which is barely a day-by-day acceptable situation to be.

Air horns, on the other hand, save your throat, are MUCH louder, and have a more emotionaly neutral sound, adequate for signaling in traffic, specially heavy urban traffic.

One single thing is paramount, based in my experience with bell-rings: the activation lever must be easily, instantly accessible by your thumb when the hand is in braking position. If you have to move or reposition your hand in order to activate the horn, it will be underused and practically uneffective.

Hope this helps!


Is it better to have a slightly big or slightly small bike?

If this is your first bike, go to your local bike store and have them fit you professionally. Then, ask if they have loaner bikes so that you can get a feel for the size of the bike before you invest. Some people prefer bikes on the smaller side and some prefer them a bit larger. You'll get a definite feel for this over time, but I wouldn't recommend learning this by purchasing an uncomfortable bike!

I, for example, generally ride a 56cm road bike. However, I once rode a 56cm Surly Long Haul Trucker that felt too large. Some of that feeling was the components (stem length, in particular), and some of it was the frame geometry. Road bikes are built with a variety of geometries catered to every style of riding. Each bike is as different as each respective cyclist, but riding an uncomfortable bike will ruin riding for you. Your LBS will be able to help a great deal in picking a size and adjusting everything to fit you correctly.

Lots of people ask for definite answers based on their exact leg/inseam/PBH/height-leg-ratio-distance-whatever...but most of it will come down to what fits comfortably.


New disk pads glazing during bed-in procedure

This is something that can happen with new brake pads when they are getting too hot before being bedded in properly. You should be good to go after cleaning the disks again and with the sanded pads. You just have to bed them in again, this time maybe a little more careful.
I had experienced this by myself a few times and this method always worked for me perfectly. The performance was the same compared to pads that didn't need a second try.
Edit: Bed in one brake at a time as mentioned by Jeff. It's easier to modulate the breaking power if only using one brake. Using both while bedding in would result in unequal results between front and rear because of the weight distribution.


Torn. Want to support LBS but they don't carry what I really want

I had the same problem with my current MTB - I talked to the guy at my favorite LBS (I have a number of specialist but large chain bike shops close by, hes a small operator), and told him what I wanted (He stocked the brand, not the model, and it was end of season so stocks were short supply). I had seen it on the internet for a significant discount, told him that. He made a few phone calls and said "I cannot get one, and even if I could, I could not get close to that price. I am more than happy to assemble it for you if you need (clearly he was meaning for a charge)".

The LBS makes money from selling bikes, selling spares and servicing bikes. If you want to support your LBS, (as already suggested in the comments) ask him if he will order one in, and tell him what you have seen at what price. If he cannot or will not order a bike in, he should be more than happy to service it for you and will still sell you parts and accessories.


What is this stamped metal piece that fell out of a new hydraulic shifter?

Providing the 7900 is the same, I’m sure it is but someone more qualified can chip in if it’s different.

How did it fall out ? Shimano have a proper tool for removing them.
Info from here Fawkes


Will a front wheel with 24 spokes be strong enough for a total load of ~100kg?

24/28 spoke count wheels with good quality rims and the correct spoke tension should work fine in this application as your total weight is well within spec for most wheels.  With lower spoke count the quality of the spokes and the spoke tension used will be more critical than in a higher spoke count wheel.  In terms of anecdotal experience, I have used good quality 24/24 spoke count wheels in bike packing scenario with little issues (I weigh an additional 5 kg to your quoted weights).

Lower spoke count wheels generally will run slightly higher spoke tensions than higher spoke count wheels.  Getting the exact right tension is a bit of "Goldilocks" scenario and I will often default to more experienced wheel builders for this key build parameter.  The build will be more sensitive to the evenness  in spoke tension as there are fewer overall spokes, so take your time during your build to ensure you have evenly tensioned the spokes.  If this is your first wheel build you may want to seek out a mentor to check your work.  For first builds it is hard to go wrong with 3-cross 32 spoke wheels.

Finally, I hope you consider butted spokes in your build as these tend to result in more robust wheel builds and are worth the extra cost.  As the rim deflects (e.g., hitting a hole), spokes can become de-tensioned which can let the nipple back-off changing the spoke tension and putting the wheel out of true. Butted spokes have more give/stretchiness to them than straight gauge spokes, so they tend to handle bigger rim deflections before de-tensioning the nipple.


How do you connect and disconnect a quick release chain link?

They're more commonly called master links and sites like the Park Tool one have detailed instructions.

If you can edit in more detailed questions about the actual problems you're having that would help.

From the Park Tool Website:

Some chain manufacturers offer a "master-link" to join the chain. Be sure to read the manufacturers directions. Typically, the bicycle chain ends must have inner plates on each end. In other words, neither chain end has an outer plate with a rivet. The link comes in two pieces.

.

Install one piece through inside face of chain, and install second piece through outside of the other chain end. Engage the two pieces so link rivet mates to link plate hole. Pull chain to lock the link. The best method to do this is to move master link to top section between rear cogs and front chainrings and press hard on pedals. This insures the link is fully locked. Inspect link before riding the chain.

Note: Some master links are reusable, while others are disposable and should be replaced after each removal. Check manufacturer's specifications.


To what pressure should I pump my 2.4 inch punctured tubeless tyre?

As a first pass leave the tire at the lower pressure for a day or so to let the sealant plug harden. Then try and inflate to a higher pressure and see if it holds. Sometimes you need some curing time.

If that fails, try using the tubeless plugs as suggested in the answer by Girgory Rechistov.


Seat clamp keeps unscrewing, what is the preferred solution?

If a screw comes loose, in most cases it is caused by not being tight enough in the first place. It may be caused by a badly tapped bolthole where vibrations might loosen the screw which is quite rare. But I tend to believe that the screw wasn't tight enough from the beginning. (In 40+ years of cycling I've experienced one slipping seatpost because of bad sizing tolerances but never a self loosening seatcrew.)

Tightening 'quite strong' is probably not strong enough. A torque wrench, a useful tool for working on bikes, at the recommended 6Nm setting is best here. You may apply thread lock but use the sort that can be loosened. But normally it shouldn't be necessary.

Double collars may be useful with carbon frames and/or carbon seatposts if you want to apply the clamping force to a larger surface.


Are you sure that the friction comes from the hub, not from tyre rubbing against frame? Axle mounting point looks as it is not tightened properly.

Second thing to check is to assure that hub is not screwed too tight.

I would personally unscrew arm-side of the hub and check the clutch and its "spring" condition. It's easy, no special tools required. Check the very first minute of this video.


WTB Horizon 47c - small crack in the middle of the tire

One of the go-to sites has this to say: "Cracks in the tread are harmless. Small punctures in the tire such as are typically caused by nails, tacks, thorns or glass slivers are also harmless to the tire, since the tire doesn't need to be air-tight."

I commute daily, and by the time my tires are about half way through their lifespan there are dozens of minor gashes like that in the tire.  You just want to check that there's nothing lodged in there that will work inward and puncture your tube.


What is likely happening (which David and Daniel describe the fix to) is that your rear derailleur has become maladjusted and is moving the chain further outboard--and off the sprocket cluster--than is necessary for your particular cassette or freewheel. In a sense it does "think" there is one more gear since the current adjustment is allowing the derailleur cage more movement outboard than is necessary  and the chain derails into the space between the small, high gear cog and the frame dropout.

The fix is relatively simple and straightforward.  One has to "limit" the movement of rear derailleur's cage so that it can only move out as far as the last, high gear cog and no further.  The two limit setting screws are paired together and typically can be found at the back/rearward end of the rear derailleur.  Almost always, regardless of brand or model of derailleur, the manufacturer has designated each screw with an "H"--for high gear, small cogs or "L"---for the low gear, large cog side. The ends of these screws act on different aspects of the derailleur's parallelogram causing the derailleur cage to move in or out a few millimeters so that the upper jockey wheel gets in good alignment with the small cog at the outside and the large cog that's furthest inboard.  The end-setting of these screws will ideally find your jockey wheel running straight down from the outside edge of the small cog and straight down from the center of the large cog.  These two positions define the limits, high and low respectively, of the rear derailleur.

It's a good idea to release all cable tension from the rear derailleur by loosening the cable pinch bolt and allow the cable to go completely slack.  This takes cable tension out of the equation as this can generate a false high limit if the cable prevents full range of outboard movement the derailleur spring can cause the cage.   With the chain on the largest chainwheel and smallest cog (the highest gear), manipulate the H-limit screw so that the upper, jockey wheel of the derailleur cage comes in line with plane of the outer edge of the small cog.  Turning the H-limit screw clockwise will move the jockey wheel more inboard (which based on your derailling problem is the direction you'll need to go).  Counter clockwise rotation of the limit screw allows more outward movement of the cage.  Again, the H limit setting should be where the middle of the jockey wheel falls in line with the outside edge of the small cog. You can now re-tension the cable and secure with the pinch bolt.

Next is low limit adjustment with the chain in lowest gear (small chainwheel, largest cog in back). Turn the L limit screw such that the jockey wheel  comes in line with the center of the large cog. Clockwise movement of the L screw moves the derailleur cage to the right, counter clockwise will cause the cage to move left. When you have reached the desired limit on this low end, push the shifter as if to shift to a bigger cog to make sure any movement caused by this overshift doesn't bring the cage too close to the spokes.  When these steps are completed, the limit screws are set and no further manipulation of the screws should be attempted. Indexing of the gears and and other shifting issues should be handled with the barrel adjusters.


What kinds of kickstands are good for touring?

I find that a standers, one-legged kickstand doesn't work well with a full touring load (as you've found). I used a two-legged stand mounted to the frame just behind the bottom bracket, and while that worked well, it scraped up the frame where the kickstand was mounted.

Touring without a kickstand was my solution for quite some time, until I found the click-stand. It's a kickstand substitute, essentially a modified tent pole with a cradle on the end. It's custom sized by the manufacturer so it'll fit with your bike. It's particularly well-suited to loaded touring bikes, and is much more stable than traditional kickstands. However, It takes a little time to deploy, and I'm not sure it'd work reliably with a load of loose items such as groceries unless they're very tightly packed. (More information, including pictures here.)

However, none of these will let you spin the pedals while the stand is down, unless you have very long chainstays; as far as I know, most bikes, except for cruisers, do not. A kickstand mounted to the rear triangle, just in front of the rear axle, will allow you to spin the wheels while the bike is parked, if you balance the bike on the front wheel and the rear, deployed kickstand. The Greenfield stabilizer kickstand has a good reputation in the touring community. We have one on one of our bikes, a Trek Navigator. It seems stable, but we haven't brought that bike on tour just yet. (With the Greenfield on the bike, I was able to balance the bike with panniers on it, so it looks good.)

Summary: If your frame is particularly sturdy and you're not worried about scratching it, a two-legged kickstand on the chainstays behind the bottom bracket will work best. If this is not the case, a kickstand on the rear triangle would work well for you.


Where to find replacement Clarks Skeletal right brake?

If you’re struggling to find a replacement part online, others would probably be googling the same terms and struggle too.

What you might not appreciate about your local bike shop is that shops generally have access to the majority of cycling brands through their various suppliers, even if you don’t see that brand on their shelves. It would be pretty trivial for a good shop to order something in if they can get it.

If they can’t find an exact replacement they might be able to show the current range and spot a compatible replacement lever.

You could also replace the whole brake for a different model as alluded to by mattnz, or have a go at drilling out the screw if it’s otherwise junk - might be prohibitively small!


You've got two basic problems: namely the spacing of the rear dropouts, and the style of the dropouts. You've got a smaller problem of the chainline.

If (and only if) your frame is steel, you can respace the frame. Otherwise, you're limited to hubs that fit within the existing frame spacing. Given I assume your bike has rear facing horizontal ("track") dropouts your best bet would be an internal hub. Shimano make/made a number of 3-speed hubs that fit 120mm track spacing (on hubs this is called the over-locknut distance or OLD.

Assuming the bike doesn't have cable eyelets, adding a front derailleur is much harder. You need something for the cable outer to provide a reaction force against, else the cable will have no tension. Cheaper vintage bikes used to have clamp on cable hangers, but I've not seen anything like this for sale.

Be aware that whatever you decide to do, this is potentially a very big/expensive project. You may well be better off with a second hand vintage 10-speed.


First Cyclocross Race - Riding a Mountain Bike

Many first time cross racers use a mountain bike. It makes perfect sense, don't go out and spend $1500+ before you even know whether cyclocross is your cup of tea. Most all races allow mountain bikes, the only type of equipment that's usually forbidden is a fixed gear.

A full suspension mountain bike will do just fine as an introductory race vehicle. Your primary setback is that it's heavier than a cross bike, so it will slow you down when carrying it up a steep incline, or carrying it over the barriers, etc. But, those beefy ( and heavy ) tires might carry you through the mud quite nicely, maybe even putting you at somewhat of an advantage in a muddy beginners race.

Just be friendly and courteous out on the course, cyclocross is about having fun.


The short answer is that, in practical terms, the difference isn't great. The longer answer requires some explanation of "visual conspicuity."

In optical engineering, conspicuity is the study of what makes things "conspicuous," and some researchers split the tasks into "detection" and "identification" (see, for example, the works of A. Toet et al, such as this one). Because the rods and cones in our eyes have differential sensitivity to light and color, some colors are more easily detected in low-light conditions, such as dusk or dawn (the rods are more sensitive than the cones but are essentially insensitive to color -- that's why all cats are grey in the dark). However there's still the "identification" task, and that's where the choice among high-visibility, naturally-rare, colors matters.

In general, in order to be conspicuous, you want both to be detected and to be identified as a cyclist. Experiments with the visually impaired (and color blind) show that contrast is the key. Contrast can be achieved by shape, motion (which is why emergency vehicles have blinking lights: to achieve "optical" motion), and color. What this means is that the color you wear should be differentiable from the background, so you want a color that is both detectable in a crowded visual field and also that is uncommon -- or rather, uncommon compared to other objects in the visual field but common to cyclists so that you can be identified as one (cf. here and here). The fluorescent colors of high-visibility yellow-green and high-visibility orange are pretty unnatural so the likelihood that it will be "lost" in the visual field is low but in addition, the fluorescent yellow-green seems to be commonly used only by cyclists and emergency workers (like firemen) -- at least, in the US. Conversely, hunters wear orange both because it's not just a good idea, it's THE LAW, but also because it's instantly identifiable by the conventions of hunting.

So the bottom line is that both are detectable though there may be some (slight) advantage to using the color that is most commonly associated in the public view with cyclists since it is both highly detectable and also identifiable. Should you be riding in an area where another color is (predominately?) associated with cyclists you might decide, of course, to use that instead; for example, during some long-distance randonnees (see, for example, the requirements for the quadrennial Paris-Brest-Paris ride), the organizers may require that the cyclists wear a belt or vest or other device of a particular shape or color so that drivers can instantly recognize and identify the carrier of such a device as a cyclist.


Very nonstandard question: Is there any way to widen a tire by combining it with some other tire (cut and re-glue)?

I don't think what what you are proposing to construct would not be anywhere near strong enough to function properly as a tire.

Tires are not just molded rubber. They are contain a casing of continuous fibers that enables then to withstand inflation pressures and lateral forces caused by cornering.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_tire#Construction

By gluing parts of two tires together you would not have a continuous casing running through the tire.


I'd suggest a top-of-rack bag for your instrument, because its more aero when the load is in-line with the rider.  If there's no bag big enough, use a series of bungee cords to securely strap the case to the top of the rack, lengthwise.  Feed a cord under the case's handle too.   If this becomes a regular thing, you can even make a "tray" permanently secured to the top of the rack, exactly the right size for your case, with lips/sides to stop it sliding out.
You could use panniers / saddle bag on the side of your rack, but that tends to stick out into the wind a big more.  There's also the increased risk of damage being stuck out.  But a pair of panniers lets you carry other stuff on the other side, and still use a top rack bag/tray.
Carrying the trumpet on your back is a workable solution too, but it increases the sweatiness of your back, and can exacerbate damage and injury in the event of an accident so its not ideal.
Carrying it inside the frame triangle, or above the top tube is probably not going to fit, and will interfere with your legs while pedalling.
A front rack might be a good idea too - you can see it while riding.
A trumpet is not really large enough to need a trailer, so that can wait until you upsize :-)

Whatever you choose, also consider waterproofness.  Most instrument cases have a velvet / velveteen liner fabric which doesn't like getting wet.  If you have to ride in the rain, consider a "dry sack" large enough to hold the whole case and seal up.   Good for a towel and dry clothes too.  This would also help prevent marking of your case by vibrations against the rack.


How much cycling distance is needed to travel every day for good muscular exercise?

As individual speeds vary depending on fitness, bike and conditions, most information on this subject discusses intensity and time spend exercising, rather than distance. Most leisure cyclists ride between 10-18mph (16-30kph) on the road, a bit less off-road. As you can see it's a fairly wide range, so time and intensity are better measures.They can also more easily be applied to other sports.

For good health, the WHO recommends:

  Adults aged 18–64 should do at least 150 minutes of moderate-intensity
  aerobic physical activity throughout the week or do at least 75
  minutes of vigorous-intensity aerobic physical activity throughout the
  week.

If you'd like to improve your cycling fitness as well as your health, then British Cycling has a number of beginners training plans, depending on what you would like to achieve.

However, not everyone responds the same way to exercise, so the improvements are not guaranteed.


No. It's a trail bike. You'd need to add an extra 40-60mm rear travel for a start. It's also perfectly capable of being ridden down many DH tracks as it is - it just might not like the 40ft gap jumps :)

With tongue firmly in cheek, there's a few things you might be able to do, but none of them will turn it into a proper downhill bike. Most of them will void the warranty and/or break the frame!

Fit a proper DH fork (e.g. a Rockshox Boxxer) and a direct mount stem
Bodge a longer stroke shock into the frame (if you can find a pull-shock that long)
Now your head angle and bottom bracket are in a crazy place, fit an angle headset (Works Components or Cane Creek) and/or some offset shock bushings (e.g. Burgtec) to put them back somewhere vaguely sensible
Fit some heavy duty wheels (e.g. Hope Pro2Evo + Stans FlowEX, or Mavic DeeMax)
Remove the front derailleur, and replace it with a single chainring and a chain device
Replace the cassette with a close ratio one and switch to a short-cage derailleur while you're at it
Upgrade to 203mm disc rotors and Shimano Saint brakes

Once you've spent all that money, you'll have a complete mess of a frankenbike that doesn't work anywhere near as well as a proper DH bike. As Vorac commented, you're better off buying used. The Specialized Status is a good value place to start looking.

With that said, an angle headset might help make the bike more confident on the descents, without completely ruining it.


Will an Italian threadded headset fit on an English frame and forks?

The fork threads are the only threads to worry about in this case. Assuming an English threaded fork, a Campy headset which is recent manufacture should be no problem.

If it is Italian threaded, it should specify. The major worry for current bike threading issues have to do with the Bottom Bracket thread.


Is it possible to install a 1x11 drivetrain on an old MTB?

I did half of this - my late 80s 3x5 speed freewheel with nuts got upgraded to a 3x7 freehub with quick release, because the wheel was available.  Turned out the freehub was actually 8 speed, so I could have gone as high as 3x8.

However its already hard to get the wheel into the frame - I don't think you'll fit a wheel and an 11 speed cassette in there.

Also the QR has to be checked after every ride.  I've had the back wheel rotate slightly in the dropouts and it rubs on the chainstay, which means it moves at the power stroke.  I did not cold-set the frame, so the dropouts are not parallel | | they are now slightly \ / which allows a little movement and eventually the QR comes loose enough to move.  Depending on conditions this might be 10 to 100 km of riding to back off loose.

The rear thumb shifter will need to change, that's a given.  I got away with using the same rear deraileuer mechanism and wire, but had to change the lever to a 7 speed indexed one.

You'll also need to change the chain.  5 speed chains are quite thick and may bind up in a 6/7/8 cassette.

Mine cost $50 for a cassette, $3 for some spacers, $40 for the thumb shifter, and another $40 for the new 6/7/8 speed chain.   That was probably too much, but the freehub and chain needed doing anyway.

Summary  this is probably not worth doing unless you get the replacement parts really cheap (ie free or almost free.)


What is the best way to prevent skidding/fishtailing on wet pavement?

Being aware of your weight distribution can help a lot. You want to make sure you are not leaning forward and taking pressure off of the rear tire.
You can also help keep your rear tire planted by giving a slight downward twist on the handlebars with your wrists. Kind of the opposite of a bunny hop.
As far as braking technique goes, try to be "progressive" about it. Instead of just applying all the braking power at once, or applying a tiny bit of brakes and just waiting for the bike to run out of steam. Try squeezing the lever, and as you start to slow, apply more and more brakes. This will help you stop in a shorter distance without your losing traction.

A note about skidding: Generally rear tire skids can be handled when they happen. A lot of times the best way to ride them out is to keep on the brake and slowly ease it back out. If you just let go of the brake immediately, the rear tire can snap back around and it is easy to lose control. Front tire skids are a little different. If your front tire starts to skid you do want to let go of the front brake immediately. Keeping your front tire rolling is very important to maintaining control of the bike.


Something is wrong with the casing. Not safe to ride. Sometimes the come from the factory that way, who knows why. Send it back and get it exchanged. Don't risk a catastrophic blowout.


What is it called when you ride around on your back wheel?

Balancing on your back wheel (with the front wheel in the air) while pedaling is called a catwalk.

(Sorry about the wikihow link, it was the only source I found other than youtube)

Edit: It seems the wikihow link is dead. As far as I can tell a manual is leaning back and raising the tire but not pedaling. I found a couple of other links that make reference to it being called a catwalk:

Basic Bike tricks and Skills, user Wesley666 comments:

  Not a Wheelie.  Its a Cat Walk.  A Wheelie you stay seated and ride on your back tire.  If I am correct you actually stand up and pedal up and keep pedaling, which is a Cat Walk.

Learning how to catwalk wheelie -- this video is specific to a dirt bike.

It's very possible that catwalk is a regional term.


Is it safe to remove one front chain ring?

You can remove the inner chainring without compromising the strength of the crank.
However, this will mean you will have to 'cross-chain' from the outer large ring to innermost largest rear sprockets to obtain lower gear ratios. Doing this accelerates wear on the chain, sprockets and chainrings.
Small chainrings and bolts are not expensive. Installing might require pulling the crank off the bike though.


Not sure what kind of key is used on your specific lock.  The only image I can find of a OnGuard key shows it to be a slotted key similar to recent automotive keys, so most locksmiths should have the equipment to duplicate it.  The only question is whether they can get the correct blank.

Locksmiths can also duplicate the barrel-style keys used on many older bike locks, if they can find the right blank.

But I see a cheap OnGuards available at Target for $19.95 (with others ranging up to $80), while the new key is likely to cost upwards of $10.  So it may be best to just buy another lock (which comes with at least two keys, sometimes four).


What kind of nut is used on Shimano hub dynamo with rollerbrake?


Those photos miss out most of the useful parts for identification.

It could be almost any USS SWB bent, but a quick scan of
 https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=USS+recumbent+SWB&oq=USS+recumbent+SWB

suggests it may be something like

Haluzak Horizon    from https://bicycleman.com/brands-we-dont-stock/haluzak-recumbents/  but I note the stem is different.
HP Velotechnic Street Machine    from https://www.hpvelotechnik.com/produkte/sm/gt/pressespiegel/recumbentcyclist_070804_e.html


Compare optimal seated riding postions for different "fields" in mountain biking

The position does change from one discipline to another. There are no fixed values or ratios, but, at least until recently the differences were significant.

In the early day of mountain biking racing cross country was a long race (almost 3 hours) with few technical sections. Since these races were flatter, it was thought that aerodynamics could play a bigger role. Therefore the rider's frontal area was reduced with narrow handlebars seat much higher than bars, and longer effective top tube. Long stems came naturally to make up for short bars to make steering less nervous.

Then came the big split into numerous disciplines and different frame geometries came up for cross country, four cross, dirt jumping, enduro, downhill, freeride etc. Disciplines such as enduro required better bike handling and safety on steep slopes, therefore handlebars are wider, top tube is shorter and head tube is longer. This plus the fact that enduro was often defined as relaxed riding on mountain paths (it's still an arguable definition) caused rider's trunk to be almost vertical, which is more comfortable on a long trip.
Note: there are way more differencees in geometries for various disciplines, but we're only talking about rider's upper body position.

These days as world cup XC courses become more technical, cross country bikes get wider bars and a position safer on downhills. Tarmac/gravel sections are now much shorter so aerodynamic drag isn't an issue anymore (has it ever been?) and while top tubes on XC bikes are still longer (for better ascents) we can currently see more and more similarities between XC and gravity-sport bikes.


What is the right bottom bracket for english thread/68mm

The first one, "Campagnolo Power Torque Outboard Cups (EPS Compatible) Eng". The other ones are for Italian, the other threaded standard still in use, and the various press fit standards.


What's the best way to remove stick-on frame protectors

It depends on the type of adhesive. Sometimes it can be just pulled off. Sometimes the gentle heat of a hairdryer (not a heat gun) can weaken an adhesive and make it easier to remove.

Or you can try the use of GooGone or similar adhesive thinner/solvent (try on an inconspicuous place first to make sure it won't damage the finish).

Heat and solvent cover 90% of cases.

If the protector was epoxied on, then it is very hard to take off without damaging the finish.


What kind of shoes can you use with Garmin Vector pedals?

You don't need to buy Look brand shoes to mount Look cleats on them. You do need shoes that have mounting holes that fit Look cleats. Look-compatible mounting holes are the dominant standard for road cycling shoes so almost any road cycling shoe will work (but dominant doesn't mean universal so you should check).

As for the cleats themselves, there are many third-party cleats that claim to be "Look compatible." Many are fine; there may be some that are such cheap knock-offs that they fit poorly.

Tennis shoes won't work. The Vector pedals rely on a solid connection between your foot and the pedal so it can accurately measure the forces being transferred. A sloppy connection will result in sloppy measurement.


The QR system was designed before the advent of modern disc brakes, and as such there are a few peculiarities such as the one you are experiencing.  You should only  worry about rubbing after clamping the QR.

No fork or drop-out is perfectly set.  When you put the wheel in the dropout with the QR open, there likely be a bit of slack in how it fits in the dropout.  This goes away when you tighten the QR.   Depending on how your caliper is set this may make rubbing disappear or if you are unlucky, appear, depending on the final position of the hub relative to the dropout after clamping the QR.

Note that it is also important to properly center the hub in the dropout before closing the QR, otherwise the hub can get positioned off center.  As mentioned this can cause rubbing or worse if you set the caliper when the hub is not properly settled in the hub, you will likely experience rubbing the next time you open and close the QR.

These problems are inherent to combing the QR system with the tighter tolerances demanded by disc brakes.  I suspect this was one of the drivers  behind newer standards such as thru-axels, which should be more consistent when fixing the wheel to the dropout (although I can't confirm as I don't have practical experience with thru-axels yet).

The practical solution is to carefully center the hub before clamping the QR (e.g., by placing the bike on the ground then opening the QR,  allowing the wheel and hub to center, then clamping the QR).  if you get rubbing the you will likely need to reset the caliper position or back the pads off.   The goal is to set the caliper against a stable wheel position that you can recreate the next time you open and close the QR.


how to install a chainguard, when the chainring doesn't have screw holes?

The obvious mounting points for a chainguard are the chainring-spider bolts.

There are many 'bash guards' available that mount like an extra chainring that are intended to protect the chainring teeth, but would probably do just a good a job of keeping pant legs away.

Most are designed for small MTB chairings but larger ones seem to exist with road -bike BCDs. Try googling '50 tooth chainring bashguard'.


You should ride whatever you find comfortable.  If the old saddle was good, swap it to the new bike.
If you intend on riding both bikes, keep eyes open for a second saddle of the same brand/model.  You can store or sell the original saddle.
Saddles are a personal thing, noone can tell you what will be comfortable.  Since you call the narrow saddle comfortable, go with it.
And if you don't like it on the ebike, swap back with no harm done.


Best chain lubricant for commuter/utility bikes?

Tri-Flow works the best.  Any wax or lubricant that contains wax is only somewhat useful on a brand new chain, or a chain that has been thoroughly cleaned.  Wax lubricant does not work well when riding in wet conditions because a lot more road grime gets kicked up into the drive train and the wax tends to do the opposite of what is advertised.

You aren't going to find a chain that doesn't leave stains on your clothes.  Your best bet is to get a chain protector to keep your clothes and your chain separated.


It looks like it's been cut too short so can't be tucked out of the way.  But you may be able to cut it still shorter and use a smaller end cap/ferrule, or just part of one, or a blob of glue to stop the end fraying.

Bending the cable may work too -- you might not have enough length but a sharp bend away from the tyre might work.  Use longnose pliers.  This stopped my front derailleur cable irritating my leg, for example.

You're right to want to fix it -- metal rubbing on tyres isn't a good thing.


Is it ok to pair 11-36T cassette 11 speed with 50-34T Crankset?

The Shimano 105 RD in its latest 7000 version has an 11-34 tooth capacity in the long cage version. So theoretically at least, Shimano is rather conservative concerning those limits, the answer is no, you can't. With some tweaking of the b-screw it might be possible but you will have to take the blame if it doesn't work.

This said, the 34 to 34 pairing gives you a 1 to 1 ratio that allows for steep climbs, and is rather demanding in pedalling cadence to keep up enough speed for balance. Example: riding at 6km/h in the 34-34 gear requires a 74 RPM cadence.

Technical details on the the 105-group to be found here:

https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/shimano105-r7000.html


Presta valve won't let air in on a new tube

I suspect strongly that the valve is gummed up with sealant.  From the photo it looks like you may be able to remove the "core" of the valve.  That would allow you to either clean it, or replace it.   The core is the silver part that is screwed into the brassy looking part.

Otherwise, if you can't blow the blockage into the tube with a pump, and the tube wont deflate through the valve if you hold it open, then it's time for a new tube.

For what it's worth, tubeless tires with sealant work much better than tubes with sealant.  They do sometimes suffer this problem too, but in that case you can remove the valve completely and clear it by poking a spoke, nail, or stick through it.


Cycling is generally considered a great exercise for someone with knee problems or osteoarthritis in the knee joints because it doesn't jar the joint like some other activities. But like your question suggests there are some concerns. At a lower cadence (60-75) and higher gear inches your knee will flex fewer times, but at a higher level of stress on the joint and the muscles and tendons that surround it. Switching to the higher cadence (80-85 or higher) and lower gear inches you will decrease the stress on the joint, but significantly increase the number of repetitions. So, to minimize knee problems, all other things being equal:

Make sure that your fit and position is dialed in for an efficient pedal stroke with no bio-mechanical abnormalities.
Use the easier-to-pedal gear with a higher cadence.


How to keep my feet cool in cycling shoes?

No socks, and soak the shoes in ice water, they will eventully dry out, but whilst wet they will help disipate the heat.


Electric road bike - Compatibility questions

is an 11 speed 105 crank/chainrings going to work if everything else is 8 speed?

Yes that should work fine.  Bicycle chain has a fairly consistent inner width, its the outer width that varies between 7+8/9/10/11/12 chain.  7 and 8 speed chain is the same width.

If you're using an 11 speed Front Derailleur then the cage could be quite tight for 8 speed chain, so using the 8 speed FD should fit better or you could spread the cage with leverage.

Are there shifters that will work?

Sure - the rear shifter only depends on the cassette spacing and not its width.  Since you have a MTB rear derailleur, you want an 8 speed shifter which could be indexed pod/trigger shifter, or a non-indexed friction shifter.

There is no need to have identical shifters either.  You can mix and match whatever you like.

As for the front shifter, you'd want a double that supports the 11 speed chainring spacing.  This might be different to the 8 speed spacing on the front.

So the dirty hack for front shifting is a friction shifter.  It may not be as pretty as a pod shifter, but you can adjust both position and trim while riding.

I've had an ebike, and it was quite heavy.  Don't discount a triple on the front if you ever ride up significant hills.

Your choice of 8 speed rear is good - there are a lot of parts readily available for reasonable prices, and the chain is robust compared to thinner chains.

A long cage derailleur may not be required - but will allow a larger rear cog than a medium cage.  Long cage hangs lower than medium, so can be more exposed to grasses or rocks.


Can I move one bike with a second bike with a QR and carrier-rack attachment?

Would not recommend

I have tried this - and it works well up to where it all went badly wrong.

So I had an old front wheel hollow axle with a QR skewer through it.  There were two locknuts and two old cone nuts set at a distance of about 100mm, duplicating the OLD of a front wheel.  Sorry no photos available.

This axle had been clamped onto a rear parcel rack as far aft as possible - since it was a test, there were jubilee/hose clamps and some packing.  Effectively there was no movement on this part.

The towed bike had its front wheel removed, and the fork dropouts in the towing QR.  The towed bike was angled upward like it was pulling a wheelie.  I also strapped a couple of red blinky lights to the towed bike to make it more visible, despite this being a well lit summer evening.

I also fitted a secondary safety rope through the towed bike's frame and to my seat post.  Car trailers must have them, seemed like a good idea.

The front wheel was strapped to the rear bike's chainstay and left pedal crank, the top tube and under the saddle to give three points of securing.  Strapping was done with some reusable velcro cableties, which worked well.

Riding straight was fine.  The towed bike was clattery and made a bit of extra noise.  Reversing didn't work because I'd clamped down the pedal crank.  That was not a problem.

Slow speed manoevers were okay - they felt really weird but turning at walking pace worked.

It all went wrong after about 10 mintes, when I was getting confident.  I took a sharper turn at faster speed, perhaps 12-15 km/h when the back wheel lost all traction and I almost fell.  I thought the towed bike had come loose or something.

On inspection everything was secured correctly.  So what happened?

When leaning to turn, the third wheel (back wheel of towed bike) follows a shorter path than the front wheel and probably the middle wheel.  But the QR was not able to rotate much, so that clamped on the towed fork, combined with the headset angle of the towed bike, lifted the rear wheel of the front bike.  Unweighted it rose perhaps 2cm clear of the ground on a 15 degree lean.  If the weight of the rider was there it would have risen less, but height doesn't matter once its clear of the ground.

The fix would be to either

build your towing mount so it has freedom to rotate in the same plane as the wheels (ie, the towed bike's back wheel can move up and down relative to the tow bike)
Set the tow mount lower, so that the effective angle of both head tubes is the same (or closer)  Being ~10 degrees different was enough to cause this problem.  You can't fit a front fork over a rear wheel because the OLD is different, but you might be able to suspend the tow fitment just aft of the front bike's rear wheel, or to somehow lash the towed fork dropout at the same place as the rear axle of the front bike but beside.  The towed frame should clear the rear wheel, but keeping it straight might need extra thought.


Those appear to be hooked rims,(difficult to see in the pic) which are almost all iso-622. iso-630 rims are usually straight sided rims and used only on 25-50 year old road bikes. Occasionally tires are just made with tighter bead wires. You must fully deflate the tire and break the bead seal all the way around on both sides so that the edges farthest from where you are working can slip into the center well without resistance.

You should not expect to put the first bead on fully without levers, it does happen occasionally but don't expect it. Technique is a big thing but I can't help you with that without being there.I have done some ten thousand bike tires in the shop, manufacturing tolerances are quite wide, not much you can really do about it other than practice.On the plus side, tight bead wires are less likely to let the bead pop out and cause the tube to blow out, which can happen if the tire is near max pressure in the cold morning and then parked directly in the afternoon sun. It sounds about like an M-80.


Can I run 2x10 XT Shifters on a flatbar road bike with 105 10 speed STI components?

You have a few options for replacing your STI shifters for use with flat bars (but not the XT shifters for the reasons in the comments):

 You can use Shimano SL-R780 Flat Bar Shifter 2x10SP shifters with 105 components on flat bars.

http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/au/index/products/road/flat_handlebar.html

You could get some 10 speed bar end or downtube shifters and use those with some paul's components thumbies.

http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbies.html

 You could get 10 speed bar end or downtube shifters and mount them on the downtube or stem with some problem solvers downtube shifter mounts.

http://problemsolversbike.com/products/downtube_shifter_mount1


Probably not a link of the chain. It really can be anything, but I bet it is on the crank arms, bottom bracket or even the crankset in itself. You should take your bike to a trusted mechanic, clearly explain your issue and make him ride your bike and feel the noise. It is probably something loose or a bit out of place.


Choosing fabric when shopping for cycling pants

I assume here that you want clothing designed for cycling, or at least for sports, as much as possible, so for significant commuting, leisure, or fast rides, but not just wandering around town, as that could be done in everyday clothes. I deliberately haven't linked to products, as I don't want to imply any endorsement. I've also mentioned clothing for other areas, as I came across things while I was looking into your main question and they're useful for the broader underlying question.

Merino wool is well known in cycling and other outdoor activities, especially as a base layer and for socks. You can buy jerseys quite easily but there's not much for your lower half

Bamboo fibre is almost always rayon, almost pure plant cellulose. Bike shorts and many other forms of fitness clothing are available. As cellulose, it should be biodegradable (over long periods I suspect) and it's from potentially sustainable sources. Other forms of rayon may also be suitable. I've had socks made from it in the past; though not specifically for cycling they seemed reasonable even when my feet got wet.

Gloves may be tricky. Leather is your best bet to keep the wind off and provide some protection from water, perhaps oversized to go over wool in the winter. Suede is good for gripping. Any padding won't meet your requirements - so comfort may be an issue.

A waterproof top layer might be tricky, unless you go for a waxed cotton jacket, but they tend to be bulky and heavy, and not designed for cycling.

For shoes, you'll also struggle. Leather bike shoes exist but are uncommon and by the time leather has been tanned using modern methods it's almost a petrochemical product held together with a bit of cow. Soles etc. are universally synthetic. If you really want biodegradable shoes you can probably get some espadrilles with cotton uppers - they'd even look quite stylish on a vintage Pashley, but you're not going to get cleats on them.

However if you're worried about microplastic pollution, shoes are much less of an issue as you don't wash them very often, and washing is when they shed. This also applies to waterproofs. When you've completely worn something out, you can dispose of it properly (yes, landfill, but a lot of textiles end up there whatever they're made of).


Those kits will definitely work. That skewer is a 9mm. The skewer is also 5mm because that's the measurement of a 9mm skewer in the center of the skewer.


Leather saddles start to sag unless you add tension due to the leather stretching over time. How much tension depends on your body weight and how slack the saddle has become. Try adding enough tension that the saddle feels somewhat taught, but you can still depress the center of the saddle a bit with your thumbs. Ride it then add adjust the tension 1/2 turn at a time until you find the sweet spot.

Note that too much tension can cause the leather to tear starting at the rivets. So watch the leather around the rivets, you can usually see signs in the leather before it tears, let off some tension in this case.

Brooks leather saddles are suspended at two points, the front and back. What you are seeing is the leather bending over the forward contact point, likely caused by the sagging from too little tension.


If you switch to V-brakes you will need new levers. V-brakes are designed for levers that have a lower mechanical advantage, but pull the cable farther. If you mix and match, your brakes will work, but not very well.

If you want to stay with cantilevers, I recommend Cane Creek.


Making your cycling gear smell less post ride

I have a similar problem. My cycling shorts and jersey get quite nasty sitting in a locker at work after a sweaty morning commute.

I rinse shorts, jersey (and helmet) in warm water, then hang them where they can dry during the day. (There is no risk of theft where I work.) This helps substantially, although it's only partially effective during the height of summer where I live which is hot and humid.

(For those wondering where and how I rinse my shorts and jersey - the answer is in the locker-room shower, and yes, I have sometimes just gotten in with my gear still on.)

I also keep a number of jerseys in rotation so each gets a proper wash after each hot commuting day.


Spokes - a "steelo" or other brand of pot scrub.   Use warm soapy water, because the dirt is generally dirt not oils.   Its hard to get up in by the hub where the spokes cross - you might find a toothbrush useful.   If its a rear wheel, remove the freewheel/cassette first, and for either wheel try to not flood the bearings.   Use clean water to rinse.   You may need to check the truing of your wheel after cleaning too, the flexing may move a nipple or two.

If the rust doesn't move, you can upgrade to a brass wire brush, similar to what is used to clean barbeques.  Brass is softer than steel so it won't damage your spokes, but it may damage the alumunium rim or hub.  Prevent rust returning by brushing on a rust-fixative solution and letting it reoxidise the rust to white/black iron oxide instead of red/brown rust.   Then coat with some grey spray primer.   All this is easier to do if the wheel is disassembled, but that's a massive undertaking on its own.

If the rust is anything deeper than a surface skim, you'd be better off with new spokes.  Examine the bend at the hub for rust and wear too - that's a common place to break.

Remove anything electronic before cleaning, lights and computers etc.

For the rest of the bike, wash it with another bucket of warm soapy water.  Use a rag for the big areas, and a 1 inch twist of rag to pull through tighter areas.   That toothbrush can be used in fiddly areas like derailerus.  An old dish scrubbing brush can be good for getting dirt out of tyre treads.
Don't wash the brake pad surfaces directly, and do remember to rinse any soap off the braking rims.

If you have disk brakes, your last step should be to clean the rotors with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Finally for the pedantic, you can use tyre/tire black on the tyres (again mind the braking rims)  and a suitable leather or "car interior" treatment on a saddle.

If you're still making it better, consider a paint touchup on any part that needs it.  A flick of black spray paint on the handlebars does wonders for the look.

Put the bike to dry (both water and paint) and when its dried, re-lubricate your chain and any pivot points.

Do use the opportuinity to look for anything wrong on the bike - preventative maintance then follows.


Will I damage my brakes if I remove the dual brakes?

You will not ruin the brake levers by removing the sissy bar.  However you will need to adjust out the extra slack in the inner cable.

What you will do is take the bike further away from originality.  For better or worse, that's what the bikes had back then.   So if you ever imagine anyone might want to restore it, please keep all the parts aside.


The stabilizers are taking too much weight. This can happen if they are mounted too low, or she is leaning too much and transferring weight off the rear wheel.

The first problem is easily fixed - the bike should lean slightly to one side or the other. When its held upright with all the weight on the back wheel, the stabilizers should be about 1-2cm off the ground (Higher for rough ground).

The second is teaching her not to lean on the stabilizers. This can take some time and effort, especially with younger children. It is well worth investing time now to teach her to ride upright than later, when she has learned bad habits.

I regret using stabilizers on my boys bike. I now believe they hinder progress as the kids get used to them, and prevent them learning proper cornering (as the bike cannot lean). They probably cause as many crashes as they saved with my boys. If I did it again, I would buy a balance bike, (or remove the pedals and cranks) and get them balanced, then add the pedals.


My new tubeless tyres wont stay inflated

A reputable bike shop that did work on your bike with unsatisfactory results should make every effort to make it right at no additional cost to you.  If you have a receipt documenting the service and amount you paid, bring that and the bike along with you. Even if it's been a bit of time (a couple weeks to a month), it's perfectly legitimate to bring the situation to them and expect them to fix it.  Management--as well as a quality mechanic--would want to know (and correct) any problems resulting from their work.  It may be a situation where some product isn't working as expected, or perhaps a new mechanic needs more or different training. In any case, they need to be aware a problem exists in order to correct anything, and that's where you come in.
This is what I've taught my children:  when you purchased a product or service and that product is defective or the service incomplete or done poorly, you should make the store or responsible person aware of the defect or your disappointment in a polite and clearly stated summary of the problem. Conclude the summary with a sentence or two that definitively states your expectations. No one can meet your expectations if they are unaware of what they are. Having in your possession a receipt or other documentation that outlines the work performed helps to bolster the legitimacy of your claim, although absence of such things is not a reason to not stick up for yourself.
In your case, the question you've posed to Bicycle Stack Exchange would be alright at the bike shop. Add to it a sentence or two stating your expectations.
The advice in the comments above--especially trying to find where it's leaking with soap and water solution-- would be something you could do to show you've made some effort to help find the problem.  Marking any areas where you've noted air bubbles (using something impermanent like tape or chalk--just nothing that would mar the product in case they choose to take them back).  Should an employee of the shop refuse or in any way impede your expectations, politely request to visit with a manager on duty and again restate to him or her the clearly defined problem and your expectations.


The clamp in your seat post is unusually narrow, and this generates higher than normal high bending forces on the seat rails. A seat post with larger clamp should solve this problem.


A puncture. Maybe a bit of glass still stuck in the tire. The tire had already lost air then when you pumped it up it got worse.

Assuming it's a tire with a tube, you can get a tire patch kit or buy a new tube. If you're going to patch it, take the tube out, inflate it and locate the leak. Stick it in a bowl of water and look for the bubbles if it's hard to find. Mark it with a pen. Then let the air out, scuff up the area of the hole with a little sandpaper and follow the directions that came with your patch kit.

Very carefully inspect the tire. Feel the inside all the way around. If there's any grit in there, that's bad. Inspect the outside carefully and look for a cut and maybe a bit of glass still stuck in there. If the damage is very minor you can keep using the tire, but if it's a bigger cut, it's better to replace it.

Inflate the tube just slightly when putting it back in the tire so it doesn't get twisted. If you have it, put baby powder on the tube before putting it back in it will help it get seated nicely.


Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring on my 1x9?

Is your front chainring on the outside or inside of the spider? Is it a converted 1x9 or did you purchase it as a 1x9?

It's most likely happening when you hit large bumps or holes in the road. It's possible that your chain is too long if you converted it from a 2x9 and didn't reduce the number of links in the chain.

If you converted it, it's also possible that the chainring is just too far away from your center line for a proper chainline when you're on your largest cog. If possible, move your chainring to the inner side of the spider. If you have a single ring crank, you may need to get a shorter BB/spindle.

Another cheaper and easier solution is to get a chain watcher. There are several types and brands such as N-stop, K-edge, Paul Components. This will sit on the inside and/or over the top of your chain on the front chainring which will help prevent the chain from jumping off the front ring. They are used widely in the cyclocross world to prevent this.


What is the widest tire I can fit on my 32c wheels?

Assuming that your rims are actually 622x15 ISO size, like the Shimano page for those rims says...

According to this handy chart on Sheldon Brown's site, putting a 35mm tire on a 15mm rim is slightly bigger than recommended. It's close enough that it should be fine, however. That chart is fairly conservative (and even says so at the bottom).

As far as the widest, you could put 42mm on there if the fork, brakes, stays, bridges and seat tube all have the clearance, but that's really pushing it quite far and likely to cause poor handling or other issues. 35mm is just barely pushing it and should be fine.


Difference between two drivetrains with the same gear ratio?

The gear ratio is exactly the same, the only possible difference is in the efficiency of the power transmission. Big/Big is generally more efficient, so it should be better for both, unless there is some reason that greater power losses in the transmission chain help "spinners".

So they will potentially feel different if you can notice the difference
( pretty small ) in the efficiency of the drive train. I don't see how that translates to masher vs spinner though.

http://www.ihpva.org/HParchive/PDF/hp50-2000.pdf


Are granny gear chainrings supposed to have directed teeth (i.e., be non-flippable)?

I think @Chris H is most likely correct, the ring is probably not symmetrical.

Other possibilities are that you did not install it quite correctly, or that there are raised burrs caused bu wear that are hanging on to the chain.

If you really want to find out if you can reverse the ring, install it the 'correct' way around, get shifting working, then reverse it again. That way you know that shifting setup is not causing the problem.


Gear cable head stuck in Shimano Sora lever

In the interests of closing the question I'll answer it.

I took it to a shop and the mechanic managed to pry it out using a tool a little like a screwdriver (but with a pointed end) while applying pressure to the cable.


On a reasonably built and loaded bike (which is how I hear you describing your bike) with well built wheels I would expect the wheels to last a very long time. With that in mind, several broken spokes with no obvious cause are a red flag. My first thought would be inadequate tension leading to flexing and fatigue. If that is the case, other spokes will likely follow.

With a damaged rim, it might be worth biting the bullet and buying a new wheel – or if you have a good hub, having it rebuilt.

If you're inclined to do the work yourself, replacing spokes isn't too hard and the tools are reasonably inexpensive. There is a knack to truing wheels, but you'll be starting from a reasonable place and all you will likely need to do is to tension the new spokes.


Biking Tour Through the Alps: Via Claudia Augusta

I have biked from Geneva to Lucerne, which included some sections in the Alps, and others in the foothills. Your experience may vary, since the Austrian and Italian Alps could be rather different.

Regarding the choice of bikes, I did my route on a $150 folding bike, though I would very strongly advise against this. The main thing I wished for was a proper climbing gear, so make sure you have a small chain ring. That said, it's certainly do-able: sometimes you just have to walk a ways.

5 days seems ambitious to me. I bike similar distances to what you describe, at similar speeds, and am a similar age. The Alps are steep. They wear you out fast. We did some 100km days, but were totalled after them, and needed a day or more of recovery. From experience, I'd plan on making at most 18km/h through the foothills, and perhaps 15km/h or less near the mountains proper. Sure, for the first hour you'll do 25km/h, but keeping that pace is a challenge. I was fine doing 65km days, and probably could have kept up that pace quite easily. So 6 or 7 days would give you more breathing room than 5.

Edit: Actually, after looking at your route, 5 days seems okay. I was going west-east through the Alps, but if you just cut through, and have some flat sections in northern Italy, you could probably manage 5.

Some other thoughts:

Bring supplies for the steep parts, even if you would normally just stop at stores or restaurants along the way. There are shops up there, but they'll charge you 3-4 times the normal price, and you may have to go far out of your way.
Be prepared for extreme wind. It's not there every day, but it can get up to 25km/h or 30km/h easily.
Consider avoiding the bike paths, if there are any. Often these went quite far out of their ways to avoid the main roads, and in some cases (e.g. Lausanne), that meant going up and down steep grades over and over again, where the road was nearly flat. Traffic seemed to be pretty low in the Swiss parts anyhow, so by the end we only used trails that actually followed the roadway.
Not sure whether you're German, but the folks in the Alps seem to like credit cards even less than those in Germany proper. Bring cash!
SUNSCREEN! Not the first thing you think of, but the elevation makes a huge difference. Apply more than once per day.


What should I look for in a cycling undershirt for warm weather?

My favourite base layers are Merino wool, in particular from Rapha. They are seriously not cheap, but they are definitely worth it. Very warm in winter with the long sleeve, but surprisingly cooling in the summer with the short/no sleeve.


what is the average weight of a male professional cyclist?

Here is a site with a chart that lists pro cyclist's height and weight ranges.

Source credit is  http://www.wenzelcoaching.com/blog/cycling-body-weight-chart/


My Shimano Tourney RD-TY22 7–21 speed bike rear derailleur mech, direct attach has broken, need a replacement, preferably newer

Specific product recommendations are off topic here, but I can tell you that pretty much any Shimano MTB 7, 8 or 9 speed derailleur will work.

The reason for this is that the shifter controls the amount of cable pulled for each gear change. The derailleur has an 'actuation ratio' which is the ratio of lateral movement to cable length pulled. Shimano 7, 8 or 9 speed derailleurs all use the same actuation ratio and the shifters are responsible for pulling the correct amount of cable for the 7, 8 or 9 speed sprocket spacing.

Derailleurs from the Tourney TX (the highest Tourney level), Altus or Acera lines will be a step up from your current derailleur.

You will need to check the specs of the derailleurs you consider, specifically: the max largest sprocket that can be accommodated and and the 'total capacity' which is the  max (difference in size small and large chainrings) + (difference in size small and large cassette sprockets), measured in teeth. and represents how much chain slack the derailleur can take up.

Specs can be looked up on Shimano's site here: http://si.shimano.com/#/


Can I fit a modern internally geared hub on an old bike ?

While you probably could cold set it, the Sturmey-Archer XRF-8 is available in a version with 120mm OLN dimension.

(And you almost certainly can fit a modern bottom bracket. Worst case, have the existing threads removed and fit a threadless bracket. Bottom bracket size guide.)


Two items to consider are bicycle fit and riding position.  Here is a link to how the position of the controls can effect neck and back pain http://bikeandbody.blogspot.com/2012/02/have-neck-and-shoulder-pain-on-bike.html  The post discussed positioning of the hoods on a drop bar bike but I am sure you can extrapolate the information to your own circumstances given your flat bar bike.

An additional thing to consider relative to fit is cockpit room... it is not just a matter of handlebar height relative to the seat.  Reach can have a huge impact on comfort particularly with the back and neck.  Too much reach has you stretched out and too little room (short reach) has you hunched over.. both situations force your head/neck into unnatural positions to see the road when riding...   Top tube length is the primary factor effecting reach but considering you already have your bike you can play on the margins by adjusting your seat fore and aft, as mentioned in the comments you can adjust your bar height, or you can get a new stem that can affect both bar height and reach.

With the proper fit, consider riding form.  Your elbows should be slightly bent... that is purposely bent... and your back slightly arched (not hunched).  this position has the effect of pulling your head and shoulders up so you can see the road without having to hold your head back.  It has the added benefit of opening up your breathing pathways.... elbows bent, back arched should be a mantra until it becomes your natural riding position.

Play with your fit.. you may want to consider getting a professional fit especially if you are considering investing in a new stem or bars.  The professional fit will inform you on what would be best considering your current setup.

good luck


Why do I never get DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness) from cycling but I do after walking?

Let’s look at the definition of DOMS:

  Delayed onset muscle soreness (DOMS) is the pain and stiffness felt in muscles several hours to days after unaccustomed or strenuous exercise.
  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delayed_onset_muscle_soreness

If you cycle all the time, but rarely walk, then walking more than typically (e.g., a couple hours) could result in DOMS. Cycling and riding use your leg and hip muscles differently, especially in regards to range of motion. Cycling is a very constrained range of motion, compared to walking, especially when it comes to the posterior chain.

DOMS manifests when you use your muscles in ways you are unaccustomed to, this can mean what muscles you use and/or how strenuously you use them.

This is why I suggested in comments to ride at a high intensity for a period longer than you are accustomed to if you wanted to experience DOMS from cycling.


Upgrading from 50/34 to 50/39 with Shimano Sora?

Take a look here http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings.html
It looks like the flat series is for single speed or old style 5 or 6 speed non indexed shifting bikes.

Suggest you need the SE Plus range http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chainrings/se-plus-chainrings.html which is designed for 7 to 9 speed. It should be narrower than what you have, which may be why the chain is fouling.


Shimano Claris shifter double/triple shifting up (when moving to smaller, harder cogs) on the rear derailleur

Check the following:

If you remove the cable tension, do you get the right number of clicks for the shifter? If not, you may have a broken pawl or gummed up pawl. If blasting with wd-40 doesn't work, you need to get a new shifter, cause taking apart a brifter and putting it back again is hard.
Is the derailleur bent? It isn't possible to adjust a bent derailleur satisfactorially. To unbend it properly, you need a special tool.
Is the chain worn? If so, get a new chain. Check with a gauge.
Is the cassette worn? If so, get a new cassette. And probably a new chain, for good measure. See this link on chain + cassette wear.
Is the derailleur adjusted properly? The cables do slip over time, and you may need to readjust them. Follow the directions here.
Is the cable slipping or have excess friction or under too much or too little tension? You can clamp down the cable and/or replace it. You can also get weird things if your frame flexes enough to pull the cable, e.g. if you have under-bottom bracket shift cable routing.


Do I need a separate dishing tool for building wheels with park tool TS-2.2 truing stand?

A properly aligned TS-2 truing stand will show dish, as well as alignment.  You rarely need additional adjustment after using it.  However, if the stand is out of alignment, you may need to re-dish the wheel.

The easiest and most accurate check for TS-2 alignment is a properly dished wheel.

The best way to ensure that the wheel is properly dished, and thus an accurate alignment check, is with a dishing tool.

Bottom line, if you can afford the TS-2, a dishing tool shouldn't be a major expense, and is worth the cost, even if you only use it as a final, double check of the truing stand.


Specialized bike store or general sports shop

I'm not sure about Austria, but here in the UK many general sports shops are no more than outlets for Nike and Adidas clothing. If you are someone who knows very little about bikes, I'd suggest that this would be riskier than going to a specialised bike shop.

The only thing that would possibly make the general sports shop more attractive would be price. But you live in a capital city, so surely there are enough outlets to keep prices competitive?

So I would say that if prices are similar between general shops and bike shops, then its a no-brainer to pick the bike shop because they'll (likely) have a higher level of expertise, in terms of listening to your requirements and proposing a suitable bike. People also place value in building a relationship with their lbs - this may or may not be important to you, but certainly it can't harm.

If you are tempted to go to a general store, for price or any other reason, maybe you should at least apply some due diligence. What should you do if there's an aftersale problem? What do they offer when its time for a service? for example. Some "general sports shops" (such as Decathlon, do you have them?) will also have in-store bike mechanics, which would at the very least give you some confidence that they are able to maintain what they sell.


Campagnolo single speed conversion - can I use a 10sp cog?

Yes this is possible with a free-hub style hub, but you may run into some issues.

You can use a sprocket from a 10 speed cassette, and replace the other sprockets with spacers. You can place the sprocket in the spacer stack to achieve good chain alignment.

I don't know how Campagnalo cassettes are built but Shimano cassettes combine the largest sprockets onto a spider, so you would not be able to use those individually.

Cassette sprockets are of course designed to enable the chain to come of them easily when shifting, so they are not as good as retaining the chain as a purpose made single-speed sprocket. For the same reason you may have an issue with the chain coming off the chainring without a front derailleur. This is why 1x systems use a 'double-wide' chainring for better chain retention.

Sheldon Brown has a page that deals with single speeds: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html, find the section titled 'Cassette Hubs'.


2cm seems like a lot to attempt to fix this way. I would not trust this repair to just any old bike shop, but find one that specializes in working on older steel bikes. I'd expect to pay for about an hour of labor at whatever is the going rate for the shop.

I have attempted to do this kind of repair on a fork myself following Sheldon's directions and it's not that easy. Even a relatively minor alignment tweak is difficult to get correct.

The other alternative is to contact a local frame builder and see if the fork can be rebrazed with the correct alignment, or manipulated in some other fashion. Every hand built bike requires this kind of tweaking, so the builder will at least have a lot of practice.
I would only go this route if the bike is especially unique in some way. It will require
repainting the fork and likely cost a lot more than just finding another similar fork on Ebay.


Can the SRAM Rival 1 rear derailleur be used with an 11-46T cassette?

Having fitted a few of these, it works on some bikes better than others. I think this is to do with derailleur bolt drop distance. The derailleur can struggle shifting in and out of the 46.
I have had more success using these derailleurs on 11-46t 10sp cassettes with 10sp shifters where the margin for error is better.
The size of the front ring doesn't matter as long as the chain is the right length.


Rotating tires on a car is usually done to even out the wear (unless you have specific front / back / left / right tires) across the tread - they'll often wear on the outside of the tread, so rotating them presents fresher tread to the gripping surfaces (i.e., they're wearing at the places that make the most contact with the road).

With a bike tire you shouldn't run into this problem (unless you make a lot of left turns, or a lot of right turns). "Rotating" in this case means moving the less-worn one (front tire) to the position where it'll get more wear (to the back) and replacing the more-worn one in the position where it'll get less use (to the front). This means you don't have to buy 2 tires when one gets worn (just one).

A couple of observations. If you play games with your tires (e.g., stickier front tire, deeper groove on the rear, etc.) you should obviously replace the tire with one with similar characteristics, so you won't be able to swap them around.

Typically, one replaces a tire when it either has a huge gash or has worn down to the point where there's a significant decline in the performance (i.e., no tread left or it's about to blow). If you're using knobby tires and you're wearing the nubs down you're correct in that they'll take on the characteristics of road slicks.

It's not necessarily "bad" to rotate them; if you can only afford one tire or the other one is perfectly good it means you can continue to ride without having to miss meals or rent payments. If you're still able to maintain the needed grip throughout your ride (road and gravel) there's no real reason to replace them if they're just a little worn. If, on the other hand, you're starting to have difficulty with traction, control, leaks, etc. it might be time to replace them.

An alternative to "rotating" your tires would be to buy a new set (if you can afford them) and save the less-worn of your two existing ones as a spare just in case you run over a chunk of glass or something.


Trailer connection, off the shelf parts and proven performer

I now have over 100 miles towing the canoe with my homemade trailer hitch pictured in the question.

A schedule 40 PVC 1 1/4 (or 1 1/2?) to 1 inch connector is used as the hitch, the bike has a quick release for the seat, so loosen the seat pull the post out and center the connector and restore the seat = Connected, (takes like 5 seconds).

The support arm is a 4 foot section of schedule 40 PVC 1 inch pipe, structural strength is added by inserting a 4 foot length of 1 inch dowel, slathered (during insertion) with silicone sealant for water proofing, and adhesion to the inside of the pipe. Connection to the canoe is via two J Hooks with wing nuts (drill through pipe and dowel). The bow connector seemed like it would have more strain, and there was a slide over T connector (not water tight) with a screw in connector, I cut the screw in part off and used it to add strength to the center/bow connection. Joining the T to the tube is with PVC cement and a small (3//16?) bolt and nut is placed through the 1 inch junction of the T, Tube & Dowel.

Everything is off the shelf (Lowe's), Because the seat post is at about a 15 degree angle, the hitch self-centers and tends to stay fairly stable. If I am away from home, a quick trip to the local hardware store will have me back on the trail in a couple hours.

The tube would occasionally rub against the back tire, I used a bungee cord around the pipe and to the seat to lift it a bit, this has worked fine.

On one of my early outings the canoe had gotten misaligned on the dolly and was travelling slightly sideways, while navigating between poles the canoe tipped over.  Everything flexed nicely without breaking.

Of interest, I am on my second disposable bike with the same trailer hitch, the blue bike wore out.  I tow with a disposable bike so if (when?) the canoe tips over and deposits the bike at the bottom a river, I don't need to worry about dodging tug boats to retrieve it, just go get another one.

Why don't I get a better bike?   I carry the bike in the canoe. If me the bike and the canoe go over, the bike is going to drown. I have a life jack and the canoe has flotation. I tie the bike to the canoe, but unless the water is pretty shallow I am probably going to cut the bike loose, I can get a new bike every year for $100.  When you get in a canoe, you should expect that the likelihood of overturning is 100% (it's not but is the safe assumption).  Currently I am traveling some local water ways limited to about 15 miles per day where the return time is at 2 canoe miles per hour top speed.  Everyday is potentially the last day the bike has to live.

Related

How to tow a canoe with a bicycle?
What are the safety concerns of a high vs a low mount trailer hitch?