Replace 140mm fork with 160mm on Remedy 7 27.5 possible?

FWIW, I have put 140mm-100mm adjustable forks on an XC bike designed for 100m forks. Going from 140mm to 160mm will change the geometry of the bike a bit, but a bike that already has a 140mm fork is pretty slack to begin with.

Depending on the exact fork and how much you set up the sag, there may be little to no measurable difference between the two forks during "normal" riding. The slacker the head angle, the less difference a change in fork length makes. If you're planning on running it at "All mountain" sag values, then

( 140 * .7 ) = 98 mm

( 160 * .7 ) = 112 mm

So the fork will only be about 1.4 cm longer during normal riding, and at a 68 degree head angle, you will barely notice the difference in height. This assumes
the two forks have roughly equal axle to crown measurements.

If you want an official answer email trek and ask if putting the new fork on will void the frame warranty.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/support/contact/

If it were my bike, I'd do it without a second thought. But I love building franken bikes.


What are the missing accessories for you cyclists?

H. P. - welcome to bikes.se and thanks for asking.

One feature I have not seen on bike computers or iphone apps is a simple tool that tells you how much money you have saved through cycling.

To drive a mile takes a certain amount of petrol/diesel and that depends on many factors. These factors can be approximated in a multitude of ways, so you can start off with a simple miles to the gallon factor then extend the model to take into account the start/stops, the speed, the weather (A.C. in summer), car engine size and so on. Some algorithm optimisations will not be that big a deal, others will be important to accuracy.

The car data is also important. As well as efficiency there is also the depreciation, insurance and other costs. You could have ballpark figures for 'large saloon', 'small hatch', 'fullsize SUV' and so on. Also there is the difference in saving depending on whether or not the car is given up.

Fuel prices change by the day and by region. Applying accurate prices to the data is another factor that can be approximated or accurately modelled. For instance, if we were to have another war or gulf hurricane then prices could go off the chart, so you can either model 'today's prices' or make the data tied into the price by date. Clearly this data needs to come from somewhere, either it is manually keyed in or else it gets it 'from the cloud' somehow.

Ideally the app just needs to know what car you drive or what car you sold. After that it should be able to work out the rest.

To what ends?

You could have this data used by employers wishing to remunerate employees for cycling to work, you could also have parents that 'run a taxi service' make pocket money dependent on whether the kids cycle to school or not.

As a spin off you could also measure Kg of CO2 saved by cycling.

If the challenge of the above appeals to you then you could make an iphone/android app to do the above and sell it on the app marketplace, hopefully to make your efforts financially worth your investment in time.

Hope that helps!


There are a few possibilities that come to mind, but there may be others:

If the brake pads have been contaminated by something, such as oil or a lubricant, they’ll be almost useless. The pads will move in normally and at the lever the feeling will be of the pads making good contact, but they will be pretty ineffective in slowing you down. You will need new pads.
If there is air in the hydraulic system the lever will feel spongy, so it won’t bite very well. The pads will move in and make contact, but you’ll be able to keep pulling the lever a bit more, and they won’t be as powerful as they should be. You will need to bleed the system to remove the air.
If the brake pistons have been moved outwards, away from the rotor, the lever will move further than it should before the pads make contact with the rotor. This could have happened if the pistons were pushed outwards by the rotor when installing the wheel, or just by normal flex in the frame, fork, and wheel when riding causing the rotor to push the pistons. To fix this, try removing the wheel from the bike, then giving the brake lever one gentle pull about 1/2 or 3/4 of the way through its travel. Hold it there for a few seconds and then release. Then reinstall the wheel and try again. You may have to force the pads apart a little to fit the rotor in again if the pistons have moved too far inwards. If they didn’t move far enough you may need to repeat this a couple of times, pulling the lever slightly further each time. Be careful not to overdo it. If you have had to move the pistons in a long way you may need to top up the system with some more brake fluid. Be sure to use the correct fluid for your system.


Recommended exercises for preparing to bicycle commute

I would see a rehabilitation center or certified trainer for exercise for the shoulder. It does not cost that much for 1 or 2 sessions to get a set of exercises.  You will need some light weights as fly will be an exercise.

I tore a rotator cuff and it was easier for me to ride my mtn as that angle was more comfortable.

I could ride after about 2 months but I could not really exercise as I could not pull.

I kind of had a sense of what to do at the gym. I was riding hard after about 6 months and pretty much heeled after a year.

In addition to the gym get on the bike and spin around.  Until you are strong you need to be concerned with a fall.  I can ride one handed safely so that was not an issue with me.


The piston on my Avid Elixir 5 brakes popped out. Does the caliper need to be rebuilt?

sram has always been awesome about providing excellent manuals for their products.

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/5Pyt9L0OIUi7XDfIWNl65p9qoT3H9ULX2vOahNqzavo/mtime:1330363328/sites/default/files/techdocs/elixir_5_service_manual_rev_b.pdf

I would recommend a quick rebuild to make sure the seal for the caliper isn't damaged. See page #19 of the above PDF.

Should be easy, just be ready to bleed your brakes ... ( a pain with elixers ... sorry!)


What's this part from inside the steering tube?

What you have looks like upper part of an expander bolt. If the lower part is still in place, you can just screw it back. If not, you may have to fish the rest of the parts from the steerer tube and put it together before installing.


On which weather conditions should I choose my bicycle with studded/spike tyres?

I've got the same tyres in 700C, but only run one bike (in this city). I put them on a couple of weeks ago and they'll come off when the weather warms up in spring. There's no harm in using them all winter. In fact on a thick layer of wet leaves they're better than my marathon plus. They are noisy, but you get used to it and it doesn't down out the traffic.

One of the worst times round here for sheet ice is frosty Monday mornings, which often follow a sunny Sunday afternoon when people wash their cars. The residential road that doesn't drain very well is one of the few that isn't gritted on my route.

You're in a slightly different position to me of course. I suggest a simple rule: if it was forecast to be below about 3C at any point overnight, use winter tyres. If there's visible frost on the ground, use winter tyres. If you're planning on coming back late and the forecast is for less than about 3C, use winter tyres.


It all very much depend on your conditions. If you have a lot of dirt and grime on the road, expect pads to wear out quicker.

I'd say adjust pads position after 600km is normal, nothing to worry about.


How do I find out which channel size I need in my seat?

Pretty much all of the cutouts in modern seats will achieve the desired effect (less pressure on the nerves that run through the crotch area), so it comes down to what is most comfortable for you.

There are quite a few different models out there, such as ISM Adomo, Cobb saddles, Fizik, etc. Many people that are quite comfortable on one are not comfortable on another. Your best bet is to find a cycling or triathlon shop that has a "try and swap" arrangement, i.e. if you try it for a couple weeks and find it really uncomfortable, you can swap it for a different model/brand.


Why is it important to have good saddles?

Taken from the livestrong website:

A March 2005 article in "European Urology" discusses the overuse injuries that can stem from long-term bicycling. The article states that, although cycling can be a healthy, beneficial sport, some injuries can occur to the urogenital system. Genitalia numbness was found to be most common, reported in 50 to 91 percent of the cyclists, followed by erectile dysfunction reported in 13 to 24 percent.

Prevention/Solution

Although studies do not link bicycling with specific prostate diseases, the pressure of traditional seats can create problems for both men and women. Fortunately, there are several types of seats that can help alleviate that pressure and prevent injury. Look for seats with a split saddle, or one with a space in the area that would normally press into the perineum. There are more extreme options like the "no-nose" bicycle seat, the moon seat and the easy seat that are geometrically different from a standard saddle.


Derailleur compatibility with Shimano 5500 shifters

You have many options for a replacement. Essentially any pre-11-speed Shimano road derailleur with a GS cage length will work, excluding Tiagra 4700 and pre-indexing/early indexing ones.

The rear derailleur actuation ratio is the same across many generations of Shimano groups. The earliest Dura Ace indexing groups used one ratio, now a footnote in history, then everything else used the same ratio (known unofficially as 1.7 in some sources) for 6, 7, 8, and 9 speed groups. Road 10 also used 1.7. The first break from this compatibility came with Mountain 10, and since then every speed generation has been its own thing, with the exception that Tiagra 4700 is a ten speed road group that uses the 11-speed actuation ratio. (There will probably be more like this going forward.)

For the most part, the ten speed era derailleurs that use the same actuation as your 9-speed-era Ultegra will drop in and work with zero issues. This includes any GS derailleurs from 5600, 5700, 6600, 6700, 7800, and 7900. You need GS because you have a triple. You could also use one from the 9-speed groups, like RD-5501-GS, etc. (That's the one that "matches" your shifters.)

It's an old group now but I believe Shimano is still producing RD-5701-GS as a legacy option for a high quality replacement for the compatibility you need. That matches the quality of the rest of the bike so it probably makes some sense to just get that one. RD-R3000-GS would be a functional budget choice. After what the bike has been through, make sure the hanger is aligned. It's also prudent most of the time to start out with at least a new cable and ideally new cable and housing with a new RD.

Using a less-than-9-speed derailleur with the correct actuation can work, but should usually be avoided because the precision might not be there for it to perform well.


This is typically caused by seals which have become soft and sticky due to contaminates like degreaser.  It also happens over time, and SRAM Elixir brakes are especially known to have this issue.

The Guide series hasn't been bad about this so far.

The solution is to replace all the seals in the lever.  SRAM has a special grease (Avid DOT Grease) for this purpose, or you can use DOT 5.1 compatible grease.  Regular grease will damage the seals.


How to properly calculate wheel diameter (rim+tire)?

You could calculate the effective diameter by measuring rollout and dividing that number by pi.  To measure the rollout start with your valve stem in the lowest possible position and make a mark on the floor next to the valve stem.  Ride the bike one revolution until the valve stem is at the bottom of it's rotation again and make another mark on the floor.  Measure the distance between the two marks to find the effective circumference.


9 speed chain doesn't fit 9 speed cassette

Pretty simple - the new chain is too short. Maybe you bought a chain with too few links, maybe it's a production error.

The pitch (distance between pin centers) of bicycle chain is 1/2", so it's easy to count links by measuring.

Chain length required is determined by chainstay length and largest chainring and sprocket size. Usually you get a chain a few links too long and cut it to size and re-join. When replacing a chain you can use the old chain to size the new one. If the old chain is lost chain length can be determined by fitting to the bike. Park Tool has a good video on how to do that.


There are 2 screws you can see at right side of the brake. the bottom one is just above the pad screw - it's one that holding the cable. Open it a little.
Check if the cable is going smooth (if not, you should oil the cable or even replace the cable, and maybe the housing too). Check the pads, that they are not wear, nor dried on sun.
Then pull the cable (be sure that the cable going well at the lever), push the pads up to the wheel from both sides (to add tension), and tighten the bolt. The upper screw is to add more tension if needed.


Replace disc brake pads for Huffy mountain bike

Chances are the calipers are compatible with with something like BB3 pads. Problem is finding some will be more expensive than buying new calipers. You could look at pictures and 'take a punt' buying off the internet, or go to local bike shop that can match to your calipers with new pads - but that will cost at least twice as much.

I suggest spending a bit more and upgrading to a known brand of caliper, so when it comes time to replace pads you don't need to go though the exercise again.


How much runout is acceptable in a disc brake rotor?

0.05mm is nothing. Stop worrying about it. As long as rotor does not make noise or drags extensively on the pads, you'll be fine.

Rotors change shape every time you ride: you apply breaks a little longer than couple seconds, rotor heats up and expands, then cools down and shrinks. On extended periods of braking rotors can heat up enough to burn your fingers when you touch it (done it myself unfortunately). And when this level of temperature change is applied all sorts of transformation happens to the level of warping/runout. So you can spend all the time in the world to make rotor as true as possible, then you go for a ride and it all changed and rotor is nothing like you've left is last time when you fiddled with it.


Front derailleurs are optimized for certain gaps between the rings and are limited to that - for example, the FD-6700 series from Shimano has a 16t front chainring difference (relating the outer and inner chainring size). There are also size constraints on the chainrings which determine the maximum and minimum size of chainrings you can use due to the shaping of the cage. If you're below the difference, within the chainring size limits and the derailleur clears the chainrings, you're good. So 52/42 should work. As should a 48 for the large ring on most road FD's.

In the olden days, people had "half step gearing" which the front chainrings were close in size and they would crosschain (partially to get closer gearing and partially because old derailleurs couldn't shift 16t chainring differences). You can still do this now.

52/39's are probably marked that way since a lot of people run that combination (and probably put it in the search bar for either chainring).


Misshapen inner tube, is this evidence of it being incorrectly fitted?

Would you have scratched the tube, it wouldn't have taken 20minutes to go flat (95% of the time you simply cannot inflate a tube that is scratched during installation).

This is mostly some sort of storing issue, you usually got that when hanging your inner tubes on a hook. It's a rather common thing to observe in second-hand tubes that don't go directly from the box to the wheel, the rubber get compressed and once inflated you get this weird look.

Or you can, but it's rarer nowadays, have this in a brand new tube, just being caused by non homogeneous rubber distribution, it happened to me sometime ago.

Most of the time and from my experience if the deformation is not to pronounced (and it does not seem that way here) it should not cause any problem since the inflation will simply fit the shape of the tube into the tire.

It's uncommon but with bad luck the deformation could cause a hernia to happen but then again with a hernia your tire would have not taken 20 minutes to go flat (usually goes boom and flats out in 2 seconds).

I would go with deffective tube rather than wrong installation here.


Adaptor for Garmin Edge 530 out-front mount to a Go Pro

It looks like you can get screw in adapters for Go Pros that thread into existing out front mounts from below. So if your out-front mount has metal screw threads already present, check underneath and see if you can get an adapter that will fit below to hold the Go Pro.

Otherwise, no hack can hold the weight of a Go Pro wobbling on a cantilever and given the cost of buying a new dedicated mount vs the cost of replacing a broken Go Pro, the only thing to do is get a proper mount. If you can afford to replace broken cameras you can afford to buy the proper mount in the first place ;)


Usually shoes for walking/running and cycling shoes are constructed quite differently: shoes you walk on are usually far less rigid, most have a much softer sole to absorb shocks/bumps, and of course do not have cleats.

As this is ergonomics and people are quite different, there is probably no general answer: I find walking in SPD Trecking shoes uncomfortable, but not enough that I would not use them every day.

For your specific problem, I guess changing liners could help. However you'd need very stiff liners that actually distribute unevenness. I have not yet seen those.

Assuming you have static workplace: maybe you could arrange having a second pair of shoes specifically for walking there?


How can I keep my chain from falling off the inner chainring? (specifically, from getting stuck in the bottom bracket)

There is a bottom limiter screw on the front derailleur which may be of some help. Tension it up till it just goes far enough to shift. It's also possible that your rear derailleur isn't taking up the chain slack properly and is letting it bounce as you go over bumps. This would cause the bottom of the chain to slap as it goes forward to the front ring and could cause it to come off. In that case you might see about replacing the rear derailleur with one on which the tension springs are newer and reduce the slap.


Longtail cargo bikes - why no internal-gear hubs?

I suspect the main reason is cost - internally geared hubs are more expensive than derailleur setups.

Torque capacity may also be a factor. You are wrong about the force the hub has to withstand being only dependant on the rider. The torque on the hub is determined by the gearing ratio and crank arm length as well as the force the rider can apply.

A heavy bike will require a lower gear ratio between the chainring and sprocket to lower the overall gear ratio range. A lower gear ratio means more torque on the hub input for a given force applied to the pedals.


I cannot find a barrel adjuster on my bike

You might not have one. Check near the place where the cable exists the front shifter or on the cable, but on a BSO like this, you most likely don't have one.

Your options are to install an (inline) barrel adjuster or just do the adjustments without the barrel adjuster (which just allows for fine tuning, really -- you can do all the adjustments without it, but they will be finickier).


Do you get a lot of punctures while riding?  I got a puncture every month or two while commuting.  When that suddenly increased to a weekly puncture, it becomes time for new tyres.  It was 80% the rear wheel.
I can still see the central tread line in the middle of your tyre, so it looks perfectly fine to keep riding IMO.   Also, its probably got a little faster as the central knobs wear off, assuming you ride smoother roads.
If you're riding off-road aggressively (ie competitively), then the lack of central tread may become more important.
When punctures get more common suddenly, then replace both tyres.
Estimate: 500-1500 km, (300-900 miles)   I'd certainly ride that tyre.


will any shimano pedal fit any shimano crank?

Normally, one piece cranksets use 1/2" x 20 tpi pedals. Three piece cranksets use 9/16" x 20 tpi pedals. Old french cranksets use something else.

You find one piece cranksets on old American bicycles or some very low quality bicycles (such as those you'd get from Walmart). Almost all other bicycles use three piece cranksets.

So, you need a 9/16" pedal. Remember to grease the threads before installing the pedal and the left side pedal is counter-threaded (tightens counter clockwise) while the right side pedal is threaded normally (tightens clockwise).


Shimano 105 5800 front derailleur installation

It could be possible that the cogs and chainset are too far out of line. You might need a different bottom bracket. I had similar problems converting a ladies Raleigh Richmond to 21 speed. A new bb solved it


Bike lock bar jiggles in locked position -- indicative of weakness?

Well, its a pretty low quality lock to begin with, so I'd go for a better lock to begin with (e.g. Kryptonite Evo Mini 5).

See this thread. I've found that this jiggling happens over the years anyway to a lock (and a lot of locks do it out of the box), but I don't believe it affects the security significantly on a decent lock. Some locks have little rubber O-rings to prevent the rattling when you're moving it (you can buy some at your hardware store and put them on yourself).


Waiting for Dropped Riders - Group Ride Etiquette

There is a lot to unpack on group riding etiquette and waiting for slower riders. Some people ride for social reasons and some people ride mainly for fitness so it can be difficult to balance everyone's need in a large group.

The system we use that I think works quite well is we tend to have about five groups of varying ability and we stagger these groups out over our ride route. The fastest ride is always a drop ride, meaning that no one waits. These are fun but they are intense as it is full on race pace. The idea is if you can't keep up you can always drop down into a slower group that will be arriving in a few minutes. All of the slower groups have a no drop policy. This lets  people filter to their ability and it seems to work quite well as everyone ends up finding their preferred group.

When you only have one or two groups, a no drop policy can cause more friction especially between those that are riding for social reasons versus those that are riding for fitness reasons. Everyone is here to ride, but some have little interest waiting around and socialize they rather do any socializing while on the bike and turning the cranks. For them the act of waiting is already considered a courtesy. They are simply looking to get moving before cooling off too much and are probably not  thinking about how tired the person catching may feel (or forget because they are rested).

Another  part of it is the HTFU (Harden The F%#@ Up) mentality that has long dominated road cycling culture.  There is the belief that suffering is to be expected and embraced.  As an extension there may also be an expectation that weaker riders should work to improve their fitness and or strategy (e.g., skipping pulls so they can stay rested for a climb) in order to stay better within the group.

As road cycling has been going more mainstream over the last decade or so there have been some growing pains over cultural aspects such as these ones.

Which ever way you slice it it can be difficult to meet everyone's needs especially as the size of groups gets bigger.  The best you can do is looking for a group that best jives with what you want out of cycling. For example, I actually look for rides that drop slower riders (and I have been on the receiving and giving end over the years) because I am specifically out looking for a challenge rather than a social ride.


You need a freewheel remover tool which fits the cog you have. Park Tool makes a lot of these, and has some excellent directions for replacing the freewheel here (and in the unlikely event you can't get a remover tool which works, there is a destructive way of removing freewheels, which is a last resort - we will assume you have the tool). Sheldon Brown also has some directions here.

Roughly speaking what you'll do is you'll look at the freewheel you have, buy the appropriate freewheel remover tool and a large crescent wrench or similar. Then, you'll put the freewheel remover tool into the notches on the freewheel and snug up your quick release skewer / axle nut to hold it in place. Then, using a crescent wrench or vise, turn counterclockwise for 1 turn of the freewheel remover tool, and then remove the QR skewer / axle nut. Then, use the crescent wrench / vise to remove the freewheel the rest of the way (still counterclockwise).

Installing the new freewheel is straightforward - apply anti-seize, thread it onto to the mounting threads (take care not to cross thread) all the way, and you're done. It will feel weird at first, but as you ride more, the freewheel will tighten down on the hub. You can also use a chain whip (clockwise) to tighten it down all the way if you want, before you ride (this will prevent the weird feeling).


Straight 1⅛" steering tube is not actually straight?

Yes this is totally normal. The crown race is fitted to the base of the fork steerer with an interference fit. If the steerer didn't have a slight lip at the base, the interference fit would be all the way down the tube!
The reason it is called a straight steerer is because it has the same size bearings top and bottom. Tapered meanwhile means having larger bearings (like 1.5") at the crown race than at the top race. Much more noticeable.
I don't think the diameter of the crown race seat is totally universal, I've had to file one down before at least. So that is a good example of where the EC 44/30 SHIS code you notice is so useful in getting this kind of thing right.


I think you probably have Shimano's wet lube.  Confidence could increase if you feel that the point of sale was a reputable store with legitimate distributorship.   Speaking of all that, are you a believer that Amazon represents a company like that?   Here's an Amazon post in which the label appears very similar and the manufacturers reference number begins "WS..."

While this rationale is fairly weak counterfeiting a relatively inexpensive product isn't cost effective, legalities aside.  As they say, "the proof is in the pudding," so I would try it out and see how it works out.


Surprisingly, googling "jc higgens bicycle with manifolds" shows that it is a real thing.

  The bike was sold by Sears in the last couple of months of 1950. The bike was discontinued because of the metal pipes on the tank got in the way of pedalling. The bike had a code number stamped into the frame 502-307, denoting this bike was built as a manifold tank bike and not a colour flow. I have talked to a number of bike experts and very few have ever heard or seen one of these bikes. The original colour was red and black.

From http://thecabe.com/forum/threads/j-c-higgins-manifold-tank-bike.13806/

Opinion: its definitely a cool bike and worth repairing.   If you don't want it, pass it on to someone who can do it justice.


First long bike ride: Determining the cause of saddle soreness

The first ride gives almost everybody soreness.

You should be using your sit bones with your saddle. You can roughly measure this at home. A too narrow or too wide saddle may give some pain (note this is not the same thing as soreness).

Also, you may want to invest in padded bike shorts. Those help some people.


I took @Christopher Hunter's comment above an an answer, thank you:  I looked up Thule adapter and found a retail shop near my house.  I visited that shop today and was told that adapting was not possible:  the rack attaches to the roof bar in two places ... I could purchase a back "tie-down" that was wide enough to span the roof bar, but not the front.

I ended up buying two rockymounts brand tierods.  I have not yet installed them and can return them in case someone believes I chose poorly.


Rohloff gear can only shift between 3 and 4, even when gear disconnected from hub

Check the cables.

Rohloff classifies the gear shifter cables as a consumable.  They may wear out and need replacement over the years.  Check the gear shifter cables carefully for any damage; they might need replacement.  Be aware that they are not ordinary cables, but that you need special Rohloff gear cables to fit.

In my case, there was a damage in the gear shifter cables.  Replacement resolved the problem.


What type of bike I should buy if I need to ride with a toddler

A 3-year-old affects the bike's balance and handling, so you want something quite forgiving.  Suspension will make you work really hard with the extra weight bouncing around over the back wheel (even just front suspension) and you should be wary about riding the sort of thing that really needs it on a back-heavy, top-heavy bike.

Road frames are often carbon fibre -- don't even go there with trying to mount heavy loads. Plus they aren't built for forgiving riding.  There's also no point -- a child in a seat (or an empty seat) is an effective airbrake.  Skinny tyres aren't great either.  If you really want drop bars, go for a tourer, they're more designed for attaching and riding with loads.

So you're left with hybrids, cruisers and other upright (city-style) bikes.  These tend to be alloy or steel, and often have rack-mount points, which you might need.  I normally ride a hybrid, and take my 3 year old on the back. Having carried her on an e-bike with cruiser bars and a very upright sitting position I would said the hybrid is easier, but that may be about bike fit. Among these, it should fit you (you'll be riding slower with a heavier load, fit matters) and should handle well including riding one-handed to signal.

The ability to carry some form of front luggage is very useful.  This could be a front rack or handlebar bag.  I can squeeze a pannier onto the rack under my rear seat, but it's behind the back axle and makes the handling even worse.  Conversely a front bag actually helps with the weight distribution, as does a well-balanced pair of front panniers.

Reading your "on a child carrier" as meaning a seat mounted to the bike, you have a few options:

Front seats. I've only mentioned these in case you don't know about them and to get them out of the way.

Top-tube seat (between your knees).   Example, (almost) minimal example, common in mainland Europe. This needs  horizontal (or nearly) top tube.
Front seat (stem mounted) .  I've never seen one in real life.

Pros: you can see and talk to your child; weight distribution; may be used as well as a rear seat to carry two children
Cons: get in the way of your knees even when unoccupied; child is very exposed to wind/rain/debris flicked up by passing vehicles; small weight/size range for a given model.

Again only to get it out of the way:

A trailer.  While there are a variety of attachments, most clamp on in some way -- metal frame usually necessary, and often a pain with disc brakes.  These will last longer as they have a higher weight limit. Most if not all are compatible with at least some full-suspension mountain bikes. Some attach to the axle, which increases the range of bikes they'll work on.

Pros: protection from the elements; available for two children; may be useful off the bike if you can fit a front wheel etc.; a good chance of staying upright even if you don't.  Good for heavy children or children plus lots of stuff.
Cons: heavy; extra rolling resistance; lots of drag; too wide for some bike infrastructure and drivers; hard to store/lock up. The drag/rolling resistance really is a big deal compared to a rear seat, having tested both over the same ride in recent weeks. I've also found trailers to be worse than rear seats on rough gravel tracks, especially uphill. Many designs have a surprisingly low height limit (my daughter is well within the weight range but doesn't really fit with a helmet on).

Now for the rear seats:

Seat-post-mounted seat.  This is what I had.  With some models you can get a (narrow) luggage rack underneath, but you can only use the rack with the seat fitted if your bike has an unusually long wheelbase and then not well.  These require a metal seat post of the right (within a fairly wide range) diameter.  For the price of an extra bracket you can easily swap between bikes. This is probably your best choice if you really want to fit to a bike with disc brakes, and potentially your only option to put a seat on a bike with rear suspension (though you'll need to check compatibility very carefully).
Rack-mounted seat.  While some of these are universal, most have a dedicated rack. I've seen a few of these.  They often have a lower weight limit than the seat-post mounted ones.  You can't usually get panniers on the rack at the same time as the seat.  Again, buy another rack and you can swap between bikes.  They need proper rack mounting points (not P-clips), which normally means an alloy or steel frame, and may not be compatible with disc brakes. There's no way for these to work with rear suspension - they're too heavy when occupied for the only racks that would work there.
Rear seat replacing the rack.  Now my daughter is older she has a new seat (with just a lap belt).  This clamps to the seat post and seat stays, so is for steel or tough alloy bikes. There's some luggage-carrying capacity but the thing that looks like a pannier rack isn't really, However the seat is far enough back that I can wear a backpack.  These older/bigger seats are rare in the UK; mine is one of only two I've seen of this model, but I've seen a few cheaper ones I didn't trust.

Pros (of rear seats in general): you shield the child from the worst of the weather and debris; the seat can be large and supportive; seats are usually (but by no means always) easy to remove/swap between bikes; the same seat can do 9 months to 6 years; you can ride like normal
Cons: you don't know what the child is up to (falling asleep, unclipping and dropping toys); you can't hear what they're saying if there's traffic around; fitting panniers not simple.

Examples are for illustration only.  Sorry they're only links but image licensing is a pain.


Why should the front wheel be more heavily loaded when touring?

When you sit on your bike, you put more weight on the rear wheel than the front (it's easy to use bathroom scales to see exactly how much). By distributing your cargo 60/40 to the front, you get a more even distribution of overall weight on the tires. This is good for several reasons. The tires (assuming same size) have the same load bearing ability, so having them evenly balanced is better - particularly on a heavily laden tourer. Also if you put to much weight to far back, there is no weight to hold the front down. This negatively affects cornering, inducing uncontrollable under steer, and also affects hill climbing. A tourer usually has an insanely low granny gear, which means it's possible to grind up very steep hills, provided the torque does not lift the front wheel. Pulling wheelies on a fully loaded tourer is something best avoided by all but the most skilled riders.

These are only guidelines. Every rider and bike is different, so you should do what suits you. Don't be scared to experiment - even once you find a way to load that you like. If you don't try something different, you may never find that "better" way...

Forgive me, I will go for the bonus points.

Max Torque induced by Pedal
   Force on Chain =
      (Rider Weight * Crank Length) / Small Chainring Diameter.

Torque on back wheel =
       (Force on Chain * Diameter of Largest Cassette gear ) / Wheel Diameter

Torque to rotate bike  =
       Wheel base * Weight on Front wheel.

Crash ===    Torque to rotate bike > Torque on back wheel


Shimano STePS Di2 Shifting with Alfine 11 - will it be ever automatic?

I got one answer from Shimano via Facebook (July 2017), but this is NOT CORRECT.
https://www.facebook.com/ShimanoEbike/

"Hi,
Do you know if the Shimano Alfine 11 has automatic shiftin possibilities with the STEPS systems?
I to ask in many local shops, but they didn't know, I asked bike builders, but they didn't know. They only have bikes with Alfine 8, for which the automatic shifting works. I've looked into forums, checked your Shimano websites back and forth, but I didn't find any information.
I would be considering to buy a new bike with Steps and Alfine 11, if it has automatic shifting. If not, I would stay with Alfine 8. However, in our hilly city, Brussels, the Alfine 8 often feels not enough in range.
Thank you and kind regards,"

"Thanks for contacting. Shimano Alfine 11 speed hub is available with Shimano STEPS, but Alfine 8 isn't. Unfortunately automatic shifting is also not available yet in combination with STEPS. We can't guarantee this will be in the near future.
Kind regards,
Team Shimano"


SRAM PG-1130 cassette manual? Meaning of numbers on spacers that go between sprockets?

Just a guess, but does it align to the number of teeth difference from cog to cog?

That could be approximately correct except for the 36-42.

No, you don't grease the spacers, they are plastic so the will not corrode and seize to any other part.

The spacers will all be the same thickness for any number of cogs (6/7/8/9/10/11/12) as it aligns to the amount the derailleur moves per click.

Using any spacer that varies at all for that number of cogs will result in really poor shifting


Protecting quick-release seats and wheels from theft

If you use a U-lock, you can use Sheldon Brown's lock strategy to lock at least your rear wheel along with the frame. This is the approach I use. Remember: the shorter the U-lock, the safer you are.

For your front wheel, you can bring along a second U-lock, a cable, or use pitlocks. For the saddle, simply switch away from a quick-release skewer to an allen head bolt and stop worrying about it getting stolen. You don't need to adjust your seatpost often enough to warrant the added risk posed by QR levers.


In the end I improved this brake's operation manyfold, but its still pretty mediocre.
While working on it, I found the brake pad (strip?) was slick.  So I presume some idiot applied oil to the brake in an attempt to make it quieter.

The main fix was to extract the band, and use a hot air blower (a workshop version of a hairdryer) to warm the band and I could see the oil running out of the band and dripping off.
I used a non-contact IR thermometer to make sure the top of the pad didn't exceed 150 degrees C and kept the hot air moving to not overheat one spot.

After a while the oil stopped dripping, so I had to use a blotting method; I'd heat the brake pad and then quickly wrap it in a couple of paper towels.  The oil was clearly visible wetting the paper.   It helped to massage the brake pad by hand, so I wore some decent leather gloves as heat protection.There were at least a dozen head-blott-massage cycles, and I stopped when the paper towel did not get wet.

On reassembly, the brake was okay when free-spinning in a stand.  There was a lot of fiddling back and forth with the cable tension and the two standoff screws that set the band's resting position, close enough but not so close that it rubs on the drum.
However when the bike is loaded, it absolutely screeches when braking.  This is what makes me think an earlier owner oiled the brake, which certainly quietened it, but at the expense of function.
I did lightly sand/scour the drum and the inside of the brake pad, and it really made little noticeable difference.

A better solution would be as Bruce suggests, and fit a rim brake caliper.  While this frame has a brake bridge, the rim lacks a braking track.  Given this bike is literally a shopper / dunger / beater, I'm loathe to throw more money at it.   However I did replace the fork to get canti mounts, and the front wheel has functional and effective V brakes on it now.


Shimano crankset is near end of life, can I use a Tiagra 4700 replacement?

Yes, you can slam the new 4700 chainset straight in there. It should be as simple as that if the ring sizes are the same, though you may need to subtly adjust the front derailleur.
Your other option is to buy a pair of 110bcd 5-arm chainrings from TA, Middleburn, Shimano, etc etc, which is usually nearly as expensive.


Town bike intermittently harder to pedal

Are you sure you don't have a kick shift/kick back hub in the rear? I had this exact problem after I bought a new, used rear wheel for my town bike.

Seemingly at random it would be much harder to pedal, sometimes forcing me to hop off and walk up hills. At other times I'd be able to ride up the same hill! I thought I was going mad, and I too thought something was broken.
After a while I noticed a pattern, that it was changing in "difficulty" whenever i braked, ie. backpedaled. Now I love it, easy, hands-free shifting!

Sheldon Brown glossary page: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#kickback


Attacking during a race when your competitor has a mechanical failure?

It's just considered to be bad sportsmanship to take advantage of another rider's mechanical problem. The underlying idea is that, as much as possible, the race shouldn't be determined by random strokes of bad luck. It should be won and lost based on riders' strength, bicycle handling proficiency, as understanding of race tactics.

It is not technically illegal to attack in this situation. Had Aru continued the attack, most likely the other GC contenders would have followed, but openly chastised him later.

That scenario actually happened at the 2010 Tour when Contador attacked while Andy Schleck was dealing with a dropped chain. Contador stated afterward that he was in a group, the group was going hard, and he didn't know about Andy's chain issues. Other riders and commentators said that he shot past Schleck so fast that he must have known something was wrong and roundly criticized him. Whatever the case, Contador took the yellow Jersey that day and held it until the end for the overall win. (CAS later found him guilty of doping, stripped him of o the title, and gave it to Schleck who had come in second, but that's a different story.)


dynamo powered lighting for bike and trailer

It might help if you gave more details about your dynamo, and/or what your problem is.

There are basically three different dynamo wiring systems.

Single wire, uses the frame as a return ("earth"), relying on the bearings in your headset being conductive between frame and forks, and clamps or mounting bolts being electrically connected to the frame.
Twin wire, but one of them is electrically connected to the frame.
Twin wire, isolated.

Similarly lights designed for use with a dynamo. So the main thing is just to be sure that if the lights and dynamo have frame connections, they are consistent. If there is a pair of wires, typically one of them has a stripe on and is the earth wire.

For a trailer, the main thing is going to be reliable connectors that you can easily connect and disconnect. If it lives up to its advertising (and I don't know if it will), this system might help (and it also has some wiring diagrams that might be useful to you anyway: Dyna-Snap).
Otherwise maybe something like Anderson Powerpole, or TC-2C1PT


What can I get for panniers to commute with my 17" laptop?

Having a 17" laptop does limit your options.

If I understand it correctly, you want to carry your laptop on your bike (not on your body), in a bag that gives it some impact protection.

If you feel handy and are willing to throw some money at the problem, I'd recommend getting a hard-shell case filled with egg-crate foam, drilling holes in the case to install that Arkel mounting kit (or a different mounting kit), and sealing the holes with silicone caulk. I did a little poking around and found a well-known hard-shell case brand that does have briefcases for 17" laptops.


What kind of bicycles do they ride in the Tour de France?

The focus is on the riders, because the bikes are just not so different from one another. The UCI (international cyclists' union) tightly regulates what shape and weight the bike must be, and what technical solutions are acceptable, so the sponsoring manufacturers can only compete on relatively minor features such as aerodynamic tubing or frame stiffness. These are of no practical importance to an everyday cyclist.

A typical racing top-level bike nowadays will have

an aluminum or carbon fiber frame, with increasing focus on aerodynamics over weight (because it's relatively easy to achieve the UCI minimum weight of 6.7kg regardless)
always a carbon fiber fork
either super light or aerodynamic wheels, depending on the type of rider and needs of the particular stage
either Campagnolo Super Record, Shimano Dura Ace, or SRAM Red component set, depending on who's the sponsor


If you want to keep the steel wheels, you need to remove the rust and stop it coming back.

For Pinheads of Rust

Strip off everything that is not metal (tyre/tube/rim tape)
Poke at the big rust spots, look for rust under the chrome.  You need to expose the rust to treat it
Sand off any large lumps of rust with sandpaper (this is tedious)
Treat the whole wheel surface with a rust resolver like "Rustbuster" which is an acid.  Use gloves and eye protection - this stuff dissolves skin nicely.
Allow it to dry/cure overnight
Next day, sand any lumps of black rust ready for painting
Immediately prime the whole wheel, spraypaint works well.  Then immediately wipe the primer off the chromed parts because it won't stick there anyway.
You can try applying a spray chrome paint last.  Avoid the brake track, it won't last there.

Personally I used grey primer and simply left it at that.

Significant Rust

If the rim is too rusted then you're up for some more in-depth work.  If flakes of chrome come off because of rust underneath, then its significant.  The rust will have penetrated under the chrome, and its very hard to get to.  So the fix is to take it all off.

Disassemble the whole wheel, loosen all the spoke nipples, remove the bare rim hoop.  Order replacement stainless steel spokes and brass nipples.
Send the rim hoop to a commercial shotblaster for cleanup, with whatever product they recommend.  Could be glass pellets, walnut shells, sand, or similar abrasive powders.
While these steps are happening, service the hub with new bearings etc.
Once the whole rim is bare metal, get it commercially rechromed.  A proper chrome expert will know the appropriate grades to use so the brake track works.
Reassemble with new spokes and nipples (you may as well do it right) on the fresh hub.

Upgrade for Safety

Personally?  I'd scrap the steel wheel, and replace the whole rim with a modern alloy rim.  This will make braking work much better too.

Downside, is that modern 700c wheels are a few millimetres smaller than your existing 27" wheels.  So the brakes have to reach a bit further, and you need new tyres.  Your spare tubes should be okay though.


Welding is probably a bad idea - for several reasons.

Heat changes things - no doubt you have welding skills, but you'll know that relatively thin metals warp and bend and change their temper.   The thin metal of a derailleur will not take nicely to significant heat.  You also risk upsetting the thin-walled tube of your chain and seat stays.

1b. Many aluminium bikes are of a grade that can't be safely re-welded.  Eg, The 7005 grade is heat-treated after building, and re-heating it later will remove that leaving a softer section.

You're going to be limited to like-metals.  A modern derailleur will have aluminium construction with steel pins/axles.  An older or cheap/nasty derailleur will have more/all steel contstruction.   I'm no expert, but welding aluminium to steel isn't going to work, so at that point you'd need to braze instead.
Replacement - derailleurs aren't really high wear items and generally last tens of thousands of kilometres, but they do suffer damage in falls, and simple rough handling can whack the mech against things like rocks, other pedals, etc.   Having to grind off a derailleur to replace it would be a lot of work
Mechanical Fuse - in theory the hanger will bend before the frame breaks - this should allow damage to be reduced if there's something caught in the chain.  For me a hanger saved my frame when the chain snagged the derailleur and pulled it around the wheel and forward to the front derailleur.  Without a separate hanger, the frame would suffer more in an accident.
Function - almost every rear derailleur in the last 50 years uses a series of pivots to get the jockey wheels close to the rear cogs.

There are Seven total... four pivots in the parallelogram, and one in each jockey wheel.  But the extra one is in the middle of the hanger's retaining bolt, and its not just a simple bolt

Heck its not even a simple pivot, instead its a spring-loaded pivot and I suspect this is the bit you want to weld to your frame.   This pivot point allows the entire rear mech to rotate down-and-aft as the chain climbs up to bigger cogs.  Without, the jockey wheel cage will start to hit the cassette, OR you have to weld it on so far backward that the chain will be extra long and slack.

Solutions

Instead of welding permanently, look to making a hanger.  Depending on the age of your frame, it could be a generic $5 item, or if its custom then they start getting silly-expensive.

Cheap generic claw hanger for a generic bike of the `80s.

These are cheap, and readily available.  You only need one, and it slides into the drive-side dropout that looks like a long slot, like this :

1b. If your frame had an integrated hanger like this then just use it to mount the derailleur.  Easy!

If someone has cut off an integrated hanger like this, then just use the claw adapter as per the first option.

OR if you're a great welder, consider reinstating the hanger and fabbing the missing metal, hole and threads to attach to standard hanger bolts.  Do notice the wee lip at the bottom, that is for a screw to push on.

If your frame is more modern and doesn't have long slotty dropouts, like this:

Then you will have to either buy the right hanger, or engineer somethign that fits the interface in your bike's frame.  I needed a Cannondale one and it cost me $40 NZ (roughly 30 USD/ 25 euro)  There are silly amounts of different styles!

Does your bike have track-ends like this:

If so, your only option to add gears is to use an internally geared hub like a Shimano nexus 3/7/8 or Alfine 8/11 or a rohloff 14 speed, or one of the smaller 3 speed gear hubs.

A frame with trackends tends to be too narrow for a modern wheel with cassette, so only has space for one rear cog.

I guess you could try designing and fabbing a hanger for a bike with trackends, but its a lot more than straight welding.

An IGH is a great solution here, but again they're not cheap and they look like motors.  But you can even get wireless DI2 capable ones for a sleek appearance and "I've got electronic gears" bragging rights.

Emergency hanger - these aren't great because the derailleur is held on by the wheel skewer/nut/QR, so its prone to move around.

However this would have saved me a long long walk had I carried one.

Again notice it has the same large hole with threads to take the main pivot bolt on a derailleur, and it has the step for the B tension screw to land on.

Last option is the easiest, but doesn't get you gears.  It is possible to run a bike with exactly one rear cog, and to pick the size based on your pedal cadence at full speed.  This is called a singlespeed and might be as simple as fitting a cassette with one cog and a lot of spacers, like this:

Chain tensioning might be fiddly if you lack long slots and can't mount a chain tensioner where the derailleur would go, and that loops us back around to the start.

In short: Welding on a derailleur is bad, so don't.


Higher cadence or lower cadence for long distance cycling

100 RPM minus your age.  (Only half kidding.)

80-90 RPM is a good target for younger, fairly serious bikers.  When I was in my 20s-30s I could do that for several hours.  As I get older (I'm 63) I find it harder -- 70 RPM is probably closer to my "optimal" speed now, and I drift down toward 60 if I don't keep at it.

One rule I tell folks that I think is good for almost all environments, whether flat-out or casual, uphill or down, is to never pedal slower than you're breathing.  Keep your cadence at 1-2x your respiration rate.

If you're riding along lazily with a resp rate of 30 you can get away with a cadence of 45, but if you're resp rate is 60 your cadence should be at least 60, maybe 80-90.

Similarly, if your cadence is 90 and your respiration rate only 40 then you should be using a more difficult gear.


This sort of rub occurring in small/small, or the smallest cog of a 1x, is a symptom of the chain being too long, either because it was installed without being sized properly, or because it was a compromise made to cheat the maximum capacity of a rear derailleur, or because a cassette was swapped in that required less chain wrap and it effectively became too long, or because the bicycle has horizontal dropouts and the wheel has been moved forward from the position where the derailleur was able to tension the properly.

If your trainer has a cassette installed with a smaller smallest cog than what your chain was sized for, that would cause this. (A lot of mechanics size road chains based on preventing droop in small-small because this actually gives maximum cassette swappability for wheel changes.)

Because the bike has horizontal dropouts, it could also be happening in whole or part if the chain was sized for a wheel orientation that was further back, whereas in the picture you have it slammed.


Is it safe to use painted unmachine rims with rim brakes?

For your specific bike, the Masi Riser, there is nothing to worry about.

Those rims are from BrevM. From the review of some brevm wheels on urban velo, it says that the rims were machined before annodizing.  So, the annodizing masks the brake surface, but it should work fine.  Even if they were not machined ahead of time, assuming good quality control, there really shouldn't be an issue unless they were made for disc specific mountain bike or cyclocross applictions.

So long as your rims are not disc specific, but not machined, then you should be good, and it looks like that's not the case here.  Many times fixed gear bikes are sold without a machined brake surface for the seamless look, especially for those who prefer to ride brakeless.


How to access seat-post lever on the handlebar?

In my line of work as well as on bikes, a cut down Allen key can be very useful. A dremel or good hacksaw applied to the short end of the tool can be used to make it even shorter, just be sure to tidy up the cut.

In your case the long end of the Allen key could then stick out at about 10 o'clock (in your picture). You'd only get around 1/6 of a turn at a time but that's OK.

Another useful tool (though not always a good idea on tight screws) is a ball end Allen key. A set is well worth having. These allow you to drive the screw without the tool being among the screw axis, so once the screw is slightly loosened with the cut down key, you could easily take it out with a ball end key.


Levels of derailleurs, freewheels and chains

The higher end groupsets (Alivio and above) would not be the right Speed as you plan a 7 speed freewheel and they are all 9 / 10/ 11 speed.

Shimano's webpage has in the Trekking section:
Acera - 9 speed,
Alivio - 9 speed,
Deore - 10 speed,
Deore XT - 10 speed

In the Mountain bike range there is (lowest first):
Tourney TZ,
Tourney,
Tourney TX,
Altus,
Acera Altus,
Acera,
Alivio,
Deore,
Zee,
SLX,
Deore XT,
Saint,
XTR

I think the only derailleurs Shimano would say that work with 7 speed would be the Tourney rear derailleurs and the Acera RD-M360 8 speed derailleur, unless I've missed some.

But I can't see a reason that a 9 speed rear derailleur wouldn't work as the actuation is the same. The cage may possibly be fractionally narrower as its designed for the narrower 9 speed chain but I have heard of people running this with no issues. You would have to use a 7/8 speed chain though and not a 9 speed one.


I had a difficult time understanding this too.  the 2U, 1O stands for 2 minutes under your threshold, and 1 minute OVER your threshold.  (that's a capital letter O, not a zero, which threw me for a long time).


Why does my chain slips when I put pressure on my pedals

These are things I have experienced that have caused chain skipping under load:

Running a new chain with a worn cassette
Rear derailleur out of adjustment
Badly worn chainring
Freehub engagement problem

The last one isn't actually the chain skipping, but it feels similar


How can I tell if a chain has a master link?

Usually when I talk about or hear someone use the term 'Master Link' they mean something like this:

They are links that can be seperated without the use of a specialized chain tool to push a pin through the rollers.  There are others besides those shown, one of the more common being an SRAM Power Link which looks like this:

If you don't have a link like those that is visibly different what you most likely have is a Shimano style HG or IG chain that requires the use of a chain tool to remove a pin from the roller.  Frequently the pins will have a little indentation where the chain tool seats.  When you break the chain with a chain tool, you normally reassemble it with a replacement pin that looks like this:

After the chain is back together you break off the insertion portion of the pin with a pair of pliers.


Difference between 650c and 700c wheels?

They are primarily used for high-performance road bikes for smaller riders. There comes a point where a proper fitting frame for a smaller rider will have strange handling using 700c wheels. 650c wheels are designed to address that.

Smaller riders can also have road bikes built with 26" wheels.

So if you are of average height there is no significant advantage to 650c wheels.


The numbers 113, 115, etc. mean the total axle length in milimeters.

On a singlespeed (fixie, internal-geared-hub), the important measure is how much the right side of the axle "shows out" (not always perfectly symmetric), and how much the crank can "sink" into the tapered square, which may vary from model to model even with the same nominal spindle length, and with how much torque you apply to the bolt when installing.

I have two single-speeds (fixie and IGH), which required some "fine tuning" to get a straight chainline:

One had a 73mm bottombracket tube on the frame, so I had to use a slightly shorter spindle, because it is installed off-center (2.5mm to the right because of extra "frame width" on the right side, the nut on the other side didn't have a lip and could be inserted fully inside the bb thread);
Other was regular 68mm, but two models with same spindle length had different offsets on the crank (because of taper, lip width of the shell, and some other obscure factors) and I had to install a cheaper model (generic instead of Shimano), it was the only one that fitted, and I'd rather have an aligned chain than a slightly better bottombracket.


All 3-bolt shoe plates are M5 (5mm by 0.8mm per thread). So are 2-bolt. That's the thread size insofar as the wider world is concerned. That's not really what you care about.
What you ideally want is a Look Delta cleat bolt that's the right length for your shoe. They are funny little bolts and can be hard to find in just the right length if the stock ones aren't working for reasons like you're encountering. But, you need them to be low-profile like the stock ones are.

If you are forced to improvise from the hardware store or from what most bike shops will have, the best you can probably do is M5 button head bolts with large diameter washers. The total stack will probably be thicker than proper Look or clone bolts, so they may poke out or come close to it.


Is there a benefit using SPD SH-51 cleats over SH-56?

SH56 releases when you pull up on the cleats, ironically defeating the largest benefit you’re trying to achieve by using a clipless pedal system. Using SH51 allows you to benefit from that upstroke.
Before anyone tells me that “you can’t pull up!”, try pulling up more than you push down while sprinting  out of the saddle, clipped in. You can actually pick the entire rear end of the bike up off the ground with each leg by pulling up hard enough. Try doing that with flats!
As you said, using SH56 will make it easier to remove the shoe from the pedal, defeating another purpose of clipless systems: better foot retention. Racking up the pedal tension while using SH56 in an effort to make release more difficult defeats the purpose of SH56.
SH56 is a crutch for inexperienced clipless users who haven’t mastered the clip-out movement yet. That’s it. Arguably, it is best to never use it so you completely remove the pull-up-to-release instinct from your body. Simply turn the tension down as a beginner. You’ll pop out in a crash, don’t you worry.


Clean rotor with detergent, dry, clean with meths. Replace pads.
Some people have methods for degreasing pads but i find none of them satisfactory.


Can my bike be recovered from the rust monster?

Agree with wdypdx22 that your frame is likely ok.  (otherwise you might be in for a lot more work)

I'd suggest taking a crack at cleaning up the drivetrain (that's the chain, the chainrings and cogs, aka gear disc things) yourself before taking it into the shop.  It's a simple job and doesn't require expensive tools.  Basically you'll want to scrub the chain & gears with degreaser, rinse, let dry and then re-apply chain lube.

I'd explain it in more detail, but others have done a better job with these answers:

What to use to clean your chain (and cogs)?
How can I clean sand off my bike chain?

I'm less familiar with disc brakes, but if the rust is on the braking surface, try using some very fine sandpaper or steel wool.

Since it's only been a year, you should be able to do a decent clean up.  If, despite your best efforts, there's still lots of rust left or the bike doesn't feel right then your local bike shop should be able to fix it.  Plan on a tune up charge at minimum, or some new components in the worst case.  Either way it will be cheaper than buying a new bike.  (I'd recommend getting the tune-up done anyway in case there are other problems you've missed.)


The answer is yes, a slightly narrower tyre will be fine.

If you read the metric numbers off the tyre you're safer, because those have a fixed meaning. Inch sizes depend on the exact context (a 27" road tyre will be too big for a 29" mountain bike rim, for example). You probably have a 45-406 tyre, and are looking at a 35-406 tyre. The "406" part says it will fit the rim, and because the "35" width is smaller than the existing ""45" width, it will fit into the bike frame. Since it's not much smaller, it won't be too small for the width of the rim.

Sadly we don't have a good way of linking all the various tyre sizing questions into one definitive answer that will come up when people with your problem search for it. The definitive answer exists - Sheldon Brown wrote it years ago. If you want to read more, or much more, that's the place to look. We have lots of similar questions, like this.

Edit in response to answer above: you're probably better off buying a new wheel, or a second hand wheel if there's a tip shop nearby. Buying a rim and paying someone to put new spokes between your existing hub and the new rim is almost certainly going to be more expensive than a new wheel.

Shipping on the wheel will be expensive compared to the cost of the wheel, so if you can get one locally you'll save more. You can get new ones on ebay for under $50, but a genuine mongoose one second hand might cost a similar amount.

I suggest taking it into a local bike shop and getting their opinionbefore spending any money, if that's an option.


As long as it covers the back sides of the nipples and isn't interfering with the bead you'll be fine.

The tape is just there to protect your tube from and sharp edges, getting worn through over time or blowing out down a spoke hole.

See Sheldon


You’ll need a little more than WD-40, but should be able to loosen up the ratcheting mechanism. Peel back the rubber, unscrew the plastic guard plate, and now you can look at the bolt that contains the rotary mechanisms. Usually what happens is a piece of wire frays off the cable and wraps around the bolt. Look carefully and use a thin knife or something to fish it out.


What kind of pump works for hard to reach kids valves?

That looks like you need to push the valve in from the back (i.e. put your thumb on the tire side and push towards the rim so that the valve portrudes more out) because the tire pressure is low. Then, hook on the pump and start pumping.

Otherwise, you can start with whatever pump you have and buy an extension hose or valve extender. The type of valve on there is a Schrader valve.


Once pads are contaminated with oil they are pretty much junk. Cleaning the surface is ineffective as oil gets into the porous pad material. Obviously you have eliminated this problem with new pads - unless the pads are becoming contaminated without you noticing.

To cover all the bases I'd thoroughly clean the levers, rotors and calipers, inspect the levers, cable, housing and calipers for issues, then go through a step-by-step adjustment process, and see if that results in an improvement. Note you may have to re-bed in the pads depending on what you do to the rotors and pads.

There are plenty of videos out there on cleaning bikes, and some on cleaning disc brake in particular.

Check the cables are not frayed, and the housing is secured properly in the levers, calipers and mounts on the forks and frame. Check the pads are wearing evenly. If they are not wearing parallel to the backing plate that indicates a bigger problem and you probably want to go direct to a good local bike repair shop.

Park Tool has a great video on mechanical disc brake adjustment.

If all that does not work, it's time to take it to a good local bike repair shop. A good shop will explain what the problem  is and give you some advice on adjustments.


Perhaps your best option is Gear Finder provided by Bicycling Magazine.  They have various bikes organized by type, price, and some sub-details.

As for why you don't see the same types of databases that you see for computer products, this is because the people who actually make these things (computer programmers) are much more likely to be interested in computers (as a product) than bicycles.


Can I find out about compatible newer models of my Shimano chainring?

si.shimano.com has Shimano's technical documentation.  Searching for your crankset FC-MC30 produces the Exploded View (EV) document https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-FC-MC30-1351.pdf
This lists the part numbers and descriptions of the components of the crankset. The good news is that your chainrings are bolted on and so are replaceable. A replacement ring must have the same mounting hole number and position (BCD - diameter of the circle of bolts). The bad news is that the large chainring mounting holes apparently fit a short-lived, obsolete standard that is unlikely to be found.
A recent reddit post is relevant:

semyorka7 6 months ago · edited 6 months ago
So, look closer at that diagram. STX FC-MT30 through MT33 were weird
shit - there's actually only bolts on the crank for the 58mm bolt
circle. both the inner and middle rings bolt through with the 58mm
circle, the outer ring actually attaches to the middle ring.
You can probably get away with a 94mm 5-arm outer ring, but the bigger
issue is that if you want to replace the middle ring, you need a NOS
middle ring - otherwise there's no place to attach the outer ring
Both MT32 and MT33 call out 94mm instead of 95mm for the outer ring,
so if you want to guarantee that a non-STX outer ring will bolt up
without having to do any work with a metal file, those are the ones I
would look for. Shimano PN 1SC3200
Unfortunately, people usually spend most of their time in the middle
ring and NOS middle rings for old shimano MTB cranksets are basically
unobtanium compared to outer and inner rings. Frankly I'd recommend
replacing the crankset with a nice 110/74 triple that you can easily
source a variety of chainrings for - FC-M730, FC-MT60, FC-M560,
FC-M900, etc are all plentiful on ebay.


It looks a lot like a Masi Speciale Fixed LTD
This is a picture of a 2010 model

Link to the 2010 catalog
Link to the Masi catalog page


Tektro RL 340 brake levers cannot find tightening bolt to keep shifter secure

The brake levers are held in place by a metal band that wraps around the bars. The band is tightened with a bolt inside the brake lever. One may see the head of the bolt when pulling the brake lever and looking into the gap between hoods and lever.

A L-shaped hex key should easily reach it. The brake cable might be in the way though. By slackening or usinga ball-head hex key one may adjust that bolt without removing the brake cable.


There's lots of good info here, let me summarize my cleaning routine which combines many of the approaches already mentioned, and keeps the chain in good condition and appearance.  This focuses on getting the chain totally clean and dry (no water, degreaser, or lube) before re-oiling it; and then on removing as much excess oil as possible.  The end goal is a very clean chain with just enough oil--excess oil will quickly attracts grime.

Cleaning:

First the chain gets a wipe-down with a damp rag to remove as much sand and grime as possible.  This is just to knock the worst of it off the chain.
Second the chain gets two passes with degreaser. I use the Park Tool Chain Gang cleaner which zenbike recommended for this.  It gets filled with degreaser, and gets about 30x cranks on the pedals; then a fresh batch of degreaser goes in and it gets another 30x cranks.  At this point the chain should be quite clean except for the degreaser.
Third the chain gets washed in 91% rubbing alcohol--this is primarily to wash off the degreaser, but it also gets the last of the grime.  Sometimes this takes two rounds--the last round of alcohol should remain quite clean.
Fourth the chain is left to dry for ~5-10 minutes (just long enough for the alcohol to evaporate off).  At this point the chain should be totally clean and dry with no degreaser left anywhere on the drivetrain--move quickly onto re-oiling, as a dry chain is vulnerable to corrosion.

Lubricating:

First the new oil goes on,  1x drop per chain roller.  After applying I let it sit for a couple minutes without turning the cranks to let the oil seep into the internals.
Second I spend a few minutes slowly running the chain through a clean rag to remove most of the excess--maybe a couple-minutes worth.
Third I let the bike sit for a few minutes, then wipe the chain again, and repeat a couple times.  The oil inside the links will slowly seep out of the next day or so--so this step is just to remove that excess oil as it appears.
Finally I give the chain a wipe before and after the first couple rides.  Again just to remove the excess oil as it seeps from the internals.

I usually do this routine every 100-250 miles, depending on how fast the chain grimes up.  The goal is to have a very light layer of oil over the externals of the chain, and as much oil internally as it will accept.  If you notice the chain is staying too dry, but not dirty, then you can re-oil without cleaning and repeat the process of cleaning off the excess.


Nothing is missing. To adjust these you loosen the pinch bolts on the left crank with a 5mm wrench, use the same 5mm wrench to gently tighten down the large black preload adjusting bolt that's found on the outside of the left crank, and then re-torque the pinch bolts.

This bike appears to be in pretty rusty/unkempt shape. It would be a good idea to at minimum remove and clean/grease the preload bolt because it's aluminum and has a lot of fine threads and they can corrode and/or get sticky and disrupt your torque feel.

Some amount of loosening of this kind of bottom bracket is normal and easy to adjust out. There are many questions here on this. The style you have adjusts exactly the same way as the more common Shimano cranks, which is the sort that will more often be mentioned by name in questions. It's also common for lower-end FSA external bottom brackets like this to be worn out, because they're mediocre quality. You can replace the one you have with a Shimano road BB, which are cheaper and better than their FSA counterparts.


the thread for screwing in the pedal has been stripped on right side. Any way to avoid buying a whole new crank?

Cranksets are typically sold with both arms, not just one of them, so the exercise of finding just a right arm that is compatible is mostly academic (the only case I can think of that's somewhat reasonable is a parts bin at a bike co-op or shop which has one, but this is still unlikely). You're more likely to find the whole crankset instead, in which case there isn't really a reason to not install both of them.

That being said, on a square taper bottom bracket, you can install different square taper crank arms on the left and right (different sizes, different makes, etc). You can mix hollowtech 2 crankarms on the left and right as well. So on, so forth -- the compatibility is determined by what type of crankarm you're running.

If you have an autoshop nearby or a bike shop, you can also try to helicoil the crankset. This puts a new set of threads on for the pedal.

Also, note that if you don't have a crank puller, you're going to have to borrow one or likely go into a shop unless the crank is self extracting.


Hypothetically yes, it will last a while - if a sealant is used in a tube and the tire subsequently gets a puncture, you must remove the penetrating object or it will flex in the tire, continually un-sealing the hole and shredding the tube.

If you believe you completely removed whatever caused the puncture and the sealant plugged the hole and you were able to continue your ride, that's great!

Some steps to further make sure the sealant will hold for future use:

If significant sealant was lost during the puncture and you have a removable valve core, add more sealant.
If you are truly concerned if the tube will stay plugged you can add glitter through the valve core. This helps plug holes, especially depending on the type of sealant you are using.
Reattach the valve core and inflate the tire.
Spin the wheel to mimic the motion of rolling down the road.

Given enough time, most sealants cease to be active and should be cleaned out; if they solidify, they unbalance the tire with useless weight concentrated in a single spot. On a tire with an inner tube, including a tubular, you’ll need to remove the sealant through the valve, which requires removing the valve core, and ideally rinsing and sucking it out. That is a lot of work if it is a tube in a clincher wheel. So you could always deflate the tire, remove the tube and insert a brand new tube and repeat the steps listed above.


How to deal with anxiety caused by dangerous riding conditions stemming from poor lane design and inconsiderate fellow road users?

1 Avoid obstacles
There's not too much you can do about this. That school almost next to your home means you'll always be stuck in student-rush hour no matter what you do. Except maybe if you can go around the school area in a relatively small detour. Cycling on a quiet parallel road may be well worth the extra few 100 meters.
2 Be noticeable
Wear high visibility clothing (fluo vests, reflectors, clear lights when it's dark). Especially useful when the other cyclist isn't visible. At least they'll clearly SEE YOU and will evade you.
3 Loud bell
Get yourself a nice loud bicycle bell. One that you can hear from a couple houses away. Use that bell any time there's someone blocking your path, and use it early. Don't wait till you're right behind them. If you ring your bell early they should have just enough time to look behind them, see you and move out of the way when you reach them.
This one works really well if there's someone walking their dog. Given enough time they'll move their dog besides them and maybe force it to sit down, or at least in a position where they can safely keep the dog away from traffic. You might still have to slow down a bit to safely pass them.

Someone riding middle of the bike trail? -> ring your bell
2 people riding side by side not leaving room for you to pass? -> ring your bell
pedestrian not really looking taking up too much space? -> ring your bell
someone driving unsafe with cell phone that you can't pass -> ring your bell

Moreover ringing before a turn with no visibility is the only way to make your presence known without a mirror or stopping. (This is actually the main and intended use of car horns in a lot of countries)
Most of the times (sadly not 100%) they'll make room for you to pass safely when they hear a loud bell ringing.
4 Plan for slowdowns
You mentioned autism. A lot of your anxiety might come from not being able to ride at your expected pace to deal with those "unsafe" situations. If you plan on slowing down at least 10 times during your ride, some of those close to a standstill, and leave enough time to arrive at your destination in time it might take most of that anxiety away. (Note: I don't have autism myself and have only a bit of experience with coworkers/family members on the spectrum, not sure if this hint really works for you).
5 Get used to cycling in calm situations first
Instead of forcing yourself on a fixed hour to get to work in time. Try going to a grocery store in the weekend on a bike to get some minor supplies. You can plan this small trip on a slow hour when you know there'll be few obstacles. If you can't get used to the short bike trips that way, you're probably better of using public transport instead.
Final note
Although most people on this stack will likely not agree with this statement I still think it's true for certain people:

There's nothing wrong with not riding a bike.

I have an uncle that never learned to ride a bike. He always got everywhere he needed and is happy that way. If you don't like riding your bike then don't ride your bike. Public transport in Belgium is usually good enough (although not optimal) to commute to work and even do grocery shopping or visit family members.


What can I do to be sure I'm getting a fair deal when buying a used bike?

With any bike the most important thing is "fit" -- is the bike too tall, too short, too much "reach", too little?
For a bike to have a good basic fit you should be able to stand over it flat-footed and have "comfortable" clearance at the crotch.  For bikes with lower than normal top bars (eg, many mountain bikes), you should pick a bike that would be comfortable even with the top bar at the "normal" height.  And for "real" off-roading you want more actual crotch clearance than for more normal riding.  But too much crotch clearance is a signal that the bike may be too small for you.
The bike should also be tall enough that you can raise the seat high enough to have your legs nearly completely extended at the bottom of your pedal stroke.
When riding, the "reach" should be comfortable for your style of riding.  For casual riding you want a shorter reach and more upright posture than for racing or aggressive off-roading.  However, for really tall, long-torso people a "casual" reach can be too short for even casual riding, forcing the rider to curl his torso too much, and short people, on the other hand, may have to use a bike that's a hair smaller than ideal to get the most comfortable reach.
When you ride it is it stable (but is it also responsive -- there's a trade-off).  And obviously you want a bike that suits your needs -- multispeed or not?  "Road" vs "mountain"?  Upright or "aero"?  Can carry a load with a rack, or is stripped-down for lightness and speed?
Checking the bike over:
Everything should be parallel (except, perhaps, the chain on a derailleur bike).
Stand straddling the front wheel looking toward the back of the bike.  With the front wheel centered you should be able to look down and see the tire "disappear" under the frame tubes, with it not peeking out more on one side vs the other (which would indicate a warped frame).  Similarly, the front and rear wheels should be exactly in line, not one more to one side than the other.
Look at the derailer.  When the arm of the derailer is moved it should stay parallel to the wheel.  Look at the chainrings.  When the crank is turned, the chainrings shouldn't wobble.
Standing over the top bar, grip the rear brakes and move the bike forward and back.  There will be some "spring" in rim brakes, but there should be no "rattle" sensation.  Do the same with the front, only also feel for any looseness in the headset bearings.  There should be no detectable looseness in the headset.
Off the bike (and preferably with the bike upside down or suspended in a stand) shake the wheels, feeling for any looseness in the wheel bearings.  Likewise shake the crank.
And, obviously, check for serious rust, things that are seriously dinged, scratched, etc.  A few scratches on a well-used steel frame is not a reason to reject the bike, though (unless you're looking for a "perfect" specimen).


According to your link - your bike is 8 speed.
The bog standard (excludes the upper-end XT variant) Deore derailleur has only ever been produced in 9/10 speed.
And one assumes - you are looking at the latest 10 speed version.
An 8 speed chain is significantly wider than a 10 speed chain. Consequently, the chain may have problems with not only the jockey wheels of a 10 speed derailleur but also passing through the cage of the mechanism.
Additionally, MTB rear mechs - can run much wider range of gears and therefore can have a longer cage to facilitate this. With the range of gears on the link - you would require a medium cage rear mech.

You bike runs the Shimano 2300 range. And I would recommend sticking to this or something like the Shimano Claris range. These are also road specific & probably cheaper than a Deore rear mech.


You have Tektro HDC 300 hydraulic brakes.

Follow the bleed procedure as described in the proper Tektro manual; https://www.tektro.com/upload/Product/F_20180828170966wPjDlH.PDF

The bleed process also adds additional fluid to the system so that will replace what you lost.


I had a front hub motor in a retrofit kit.

PRO: Its really easy to fit, just leaves a lot of wires hanging on the frame.

CON: Any motor adds weight, and if your bike has suspension it could be unsuspended weight which is not ideal.

CON: The front wheel carries less weight than the rear, so it can slip easier.  Powering through a corner is a bad idea, and I even got wheel slip by taking off from the lights with power on and pedalling hard.

My motor was a hard on/off switch, with no sensors or throttle, and was rated at 250W.  So you could press the button and just glide with no pedalling.

My general knowledge of pedal assist bikes is that you have to be pedalling to get assistance.  This can produce some interesting effects at low speed, when turning under power, and when pushing hard to take off.

A rear hub motor will have the most oomph for the same wattage, but it will add even more weight to the rear of the bike.  This can contribute to rear punctures and rear wheel slips when cornering.

A center motor/BB motor distributes the weight evenly between wheels, and keeps the weight low down.  However they generally need a special and custom frame.

Don't ignore batteries either - they're always too small in capacity and too big in weight.  I had Sealed Lead Acid batteries, and lithium would have been much nicer.


Pistons are aligned only without pads in

If the pistons extract evenly without pads but uneven with pads, one of the pads is giving more resistance. Try to clean the whole inside of caliper and check the pads and how they fit inside..


I'd think that oil would repel water (make washing harder) and attract dirt. Maybe since we're in such a wet climate (Andrew and I live near each other) it's decent advice to keep the rain/wet trails/dirt of your bike but I still think that your bike would gather dirt even in the West Coast rain. Especially in areas that are hard to get at like around the seat stays and seat tube.

We oil our chains and they get filthy, even on the road. I'm not sure why it would be any different with the frame.

I can't see any scenario where that is good advice. I agree with the comment that waxing would be a better option.


What are the pros and cons of sunscreen vs. protective clothing?

Clothing is a good choice for sun block while cycling. Unlike walking or standing still, there's always a breeze as long as you are pedaling which increases comfort. Long sleeves and long pants may be comfortable on a bike in hot weather even when they are uncomfortable indoors or walking outdoors.

Pros for Sunscreen as sun protection while biking

It's invisible.
You can wear whatever you want.

Pros for clothing as sun protection while biking

Unlike sunscreen, it doesn't wear out after 80 minutes. You are never left wondering if it's time to re-apply or not.
While you may find that your sunscreen has run out half-way through a multi-hour ride (as I recently did), you are less likely to find yourself unexpected naked half-way through a ride.
Regular clothing often has some amount of UV protection. While you might need to opt for full-coverage clothing, you don't necessarily need special clothing
Doesn't involve covering your skin in chemicals.
Don't have that covered-in-sunblock feeling at the end of a ride.

Here's a photo of clothing-as-sunscreen before I departed with a friend on a 114 mile day on loaded touring bikes:

On a trip this past weekend I decided to spray-on sun-block instead. We I went to re-apply some half-way through the trip, I found the canister was empty. Sunblock-Fail.


As others have said, and as you said, the frame is probably too small for you which can cause pain and a bad time in general on your ride.

I find I get pain in the Vatsus lateralis (outer quad) either when I am using too much quads all around and need to creep forward on the saddle and pull more with my hamstrings at a higher cadence, or, my posture is poor and my knees are collapsing toward the inside of the bike during the pedalstroke.

If it's a real problem that you can't solve yourself without some third party perspective, I'd recmmend a professional bike fitting. They aren't cheap, usually a couple hundred dollars, and it's takes a few hours of your time. Some places will even have shims and heel cups for your shoes to get a really nice fit.

If you still have pain after a couple weeks riding out from the fitting I'd see a doctor.


There are a ton of info online!

for example:
 http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer

Performance usually mean right size and also same comes for comfort. I don't know why you think that this things are in opposite ways.

If you feel like 56 is too big and 54 too small go for the smaller. Also what use you will give to it ?  Smaller frames are better for more aggressive driving like in a urban enviroment.

I know some cases when in a store seller advised wrongly in order to remove some last year(o more) stok. So be careful with this. It may happen in some small stores where the seller is also the owner.


How much tolerance is acceptable on the chainline of a fixed gear conversion?

There is no hard and fast limit. The farther off the cogs are, the worse vibration and wear you will get. My personal experience is that a couple of millimeters off is still smooth and at 5 mm the chain will be noisy but still work.

On a singlespeed it's virtually impossible to throw a properly tensioned chain without breaking cog teeth, but bad enough chainline will wear them out and make that easier.


How much will 4mm dish weaken the rear wheel?

It depends on what you mean by 4mm of dish. When I see that it's unclear whether you mean to say that you're respacing the flanges offset from the center by 4mm each or 2mm each. (Or in other words whether you've added 2mm or 4mm to one side and taken it away from the other).

If you took a dishless hub with same size flanges, 25mm center-to-left, and 25mm center-to-right, and then added 2mm of spacer on the right and took away 2mm on the left, (changing it to 27mm center-to-left and 23mm center to right), the free spoke calculator Spocalc says the resultant bracing angles will cause the left side tension to be 85% of the right, and the bracing angles will be 4.5º and 5.3º. Doing 4mm instead makes it 73%, with a bracing angle of 4º vs 5.5º. Mid-to-high seventy percent are what disc front wheels tend to have. Mid-forties to fifty are what conventional 11-speed road 130 hubs have, as well as Campy 8/9/10.

Basically it's a pretty minor loss of strength.

I checked Spocalc's tension numbers for this against reality once a long time ago and I remember being satisfied. I am just parroting it in this case though.


Should flywheels on stationary trainers be replaced periodically to avoid catastrophic failures caused by fatigue?

Apparently you are not the first victim of this problem:  http://www.saferproducts.gov/ViewIncident/1237585

I suggest you should also submit an incident report to the CPSC (assuming you are in the US).  Since you were injured you may also want to talk to a personal injury lawyer.  RacerMate's website claims they offer an "indestructable build".

The manufacturer should provide guidance on the safe use and maintenance of their products.  I'm sure they are aware of this type of failure.

Update:  the currently shipping Computrainer flywheel is apparently made of copper.  That sounds like it would be less prone to shatter.


Shimano Nexus 3 (SG-3C41) 2 and 3 gear problem - Ring Gear Unit Repair

After a bit of thinking I filed off cogs from the outside. So far so good, hub presents good enegagement at all gears. After few weeks it still runs good. Left is "fixed", right shown for comparison. I fixed (filed) both. Be careful to make them equal shape and that sharp border is not too thin and ortogonal to the side surface


Deep cleaning - crank, derailleurs, hubs

It looks like what you are asking for is a complete overhaul. Questions similar to this have been asked before so you can see answers like this for checklists and procedures.
The one thing that makes your question different is the time issue. I agree you don't want to spend all day on one hub, and with a little study and practice you should be able to do a home-mechanic level overhaul in a couple hours.
While you are working up to it, you can do one system at a time. For instance, one weekend you can deep clean the drive train. Then next weekend clean and lube the hubs (and possibly true the wheels). Then take a day and maintain brakes and cables. Take another day and overhaul the headset...
By doing one system at a time you will break the job into manageable pieces, and build confidence as you complete each one. And, you can continue to ride in between jobs.
A final advantage to breaking the job up is that some task require, or are much easier, with specialized tools (cone wrenches, crank puller, bottom bracket tool, etc). As you work down the set of tasks you can check whether you have the tools, and if not can either beg, borrow or buy, or can decide that particular task is one you will leave to your local bike shop.


You are correct, all Campy 11 cassettes go on all Campy 10-compatible freehubs.

Listing it as 8-10 compatible is kind of a misnomer because you have to jump through some hoops to make an 8 work on it. It would be better to call it 9-10-11. Here's a page worth bookmarking that I always refer back to to keep it straight.


Depends on how viscous and deep the mud is.

If the mud is viscous like clay and maybe leaves mixed and a fat tire can float and still get traction then the bigger tire is better.

But with normal mud and less than 6 inches deep then a thinner tire that will sink to the bottom for traction and might do better.

I was in a cyclocross race recently where we had a few inches of rain over the prior 2 days.  There were both mountain bikes with 2+" tires and cyclocross with 33-35mm.  The cyclocross were more effective.  Even muddy grass the smaller tires did better.  The bigger tires got pushed around and still did not get good surface traction.

The other factor is the amount of mud you are going to carry.  A fat tire is going to hold a lot more mud and get heavy.


Used-bike: How much to reserve for repairs/upgrades of total budget?

For convenience here I've made some assumptions here about the type of bike you're buying, but since you don't say...

If I were buying a second-hand bike, I would examine the following as soon as I got it:

chain
cassette
tyres
brake pads
brake/gear cables (conceivable but unlikely)

and if any of these showed sufficient wear I would change them. You can get a ballpark estimate of the associated cost from Google, but note that changing the top two and the last requires special tools, so you might need to factor these in as well (or mechanic costs).

I'd have thought all those items would come to a bit less than €100 as a guide, just the parts, with no labour or tools. But you should take this with a pinch of salt because it depends on the specific items you get - you could quite easily blow €100 on a pair of tyres alone if the fancy took you. Similarly you probably wouldn't have to change all of them, at least initially.

Provided the bike is in generally good condition, this should be all you need to change in the  short term (first year or so). But of course because it is used, you're taking a bit of a chance that it doesn't have other stuff wrong with it that you'll need to sort.


Sorry to hear about your loss.    Is this your bike?

The manual is at http://media.schwinnbikes.com/media/uploads/blog/files/S14-Folding-Owners-Manual.pdf and is utterly useless.

From a review I found "[the loop] has perhaps the longest seat-post I’ve ever seen on a bike so no doubt it will be able to accommodate very tall people with ease. "  So that means a 400 or 450mm long seatpost.

As for the diameter of the seatpost - you can use calipers to measure, or take it into your local bike shop.      It could be anything from 25.4mm to 34mm with 27.2 and 30.something being more common.  0.2mm difference will make the seatpost wobble and wear faster, so got to get the right measurement.

Regarding the seat (saddle)  the review mentioned its a particularly horrible experience, and that the saddle should be your first upgrade.  So that's positive.

First consideration is that it may happen again.  So you need to plan some precautions before parking up your bike.

Pitlocks - replace the seatpost quick release with a bolt that needs a special tool to undo.  Buy this at the same time you buy the seat and post.
Plain old bolts rather than Quick Releases

Downside of these is it makes the bike harder to fold up cos you'll need to carry tools.

Given its a folding bike, you might consider folding it and storing it inside from now on.


One of the likely culprits is that you've put too much spring tension in on the arms. Start by loosening the spring tension on the arms, adjusting the brake and then increasing to just enough tension.

These links will be useful.


Can a 12x142 rear hub and 15mm front hub be converted to 9mm quick release with an adapter?

YES.
You will need a adaptors called "end caps" that fit the ends of the axle (front&rear) and make it compatible with the use of QR. Depending on the brand of the hubs, the "end caps" can be found on the market - otherwise will need to make it at a turnery (it's a simple work).
But there are exceptions! Some front hubs of type "Boost" are 15mm but slightly wider (110mm vs. 100mm) than traditional QR and 15mm hubs. If the wheels you buy come with this hub, it will not works even using "end caps".
Before buying future wheels, make sure there are available in the market "end caps" for them.


can I take my (front + rear) hubs apart while it is still attached to the spokes?

Yes, of course you can.

  is it good enough to visually inspect the hub axle, and decide whether it's safe to use based on that?

Well, there's not much else you can do, so yeah, I'd call it good enough. If there's any doubt, I'd just replace the axles.

  any other safety concern?

Cracks in the hub body, especially at the spoke holes.
Cracks in the rim.
Rim so badly out of true that it can't be fixed. Not really a safety thing, but it could make the wheels useless.


Help with pairing the right headset to a new 3T fork

Measure the inner diameter of the headtube, both upper and lower. These are the key measures in combination with the fork dimensions. You probably want to confirm that the angle of the inner chamfer angles are 45 degrees (and not 36) as well.

Once you have those measurements you can start searching. Note that it says "integrated" (= IS) on the Aventon page, which is also a key. It seems to me that there is a risk that you can not fit a tapered fork straightforwardly into your steering tube though, but Cane Creek can probably help you out there. However, that depends entirely on the measures you obtain.