Riding long distances comfortably has very little to do with whether you're on a 'road' frame or a 'trekking' frame and much more to do with the tires you're using and the seat you're sitting on. Wide, plush tires will go a long ways toward absorbing the bumps in the road, and the seat is your most important point of contact with the bike.

For starters, try swapping the seat from one frame to the other, swap out the tires for wider touring tires, and see if your problems don't go away.

Edit: and for Pete's sake, make sure the bike fits you. If it doesn't fit you, nothing else really matters. Have a professional fit performed if you need to.


The other answers answer your specific question of buying interruptor brakes. Interruptors are fine, but they only work when you're riding the bars and you can't shift on the bars. You should really fix the main problem which is comfort and reach when riding the hoods, which is where most people like to have their hands when road biking. It's both a safety and comfort issue because you need to be able to steer, brake and shift.

First I'd like to answer the pre-question as to why you can't ride the hoods, both from a woman's perspective and then from an adaptive sports (arthritis) perspective.

Women have smaller hands then men while ... surprise-surprise... brake levers are designed  by men for male hands and as a result, tend to be too large. Even women's bikes tend to use male components because we're not a large enough market (yet) to have our own. And you have the added issue of arthritis.

1) Reach: Almost all road bike brake levers can be designed to reduce the "reach" necessary to grab the brakes. This video shows how to adjust the reach on a typical road bike, but you can find more by just googling road bike brake reach adjustment:

This thread on bikeforum notes that the Sora STI's do have a brake reach adjustment:

  The Sora STI levers on my Giant SCR have adjustable reach.If you look on top of the hoods where your hands go there is a hole, and inside that hole is the slotted head of a screw-turn this and it moves the lever closer to the bars-it a bit of a crude adjustment as the screw is in effect an adjustable backstop,but it works.

In the absence of an adjustment screw (which is the case with some older brakes), you can glue a small wedge into the gap created when you pull the brake levers. This prevents the brake lever from returning out all the way (and is effectively all that the adjustment screw does).

For more information, there is also a related question: How do you adjust the set-up of road bike brakes for women with small hands

2) Brake sensitivity: You can also tune and adjust the (presumably caliper) brakes themselves so that they are more sensitive / require less pull to actuate. You'll need to do this when you adjust the brake reach. If you tune it finely enough, you should be able to balance reach and good brake sensitivity even with a smaller range of motion on the brake lever.

In addition, if you switched to a mechanical disc brake (which would depend on frame/fork compatibility), you could further increase brake sensitivity. For example, I can do a forward somersault (not a good thing) with just one finger pulling just the slightest distance with disc brakes. In fact, I find I have to detune my disc brakes slightly now while I get used to them.

3) Position and Comfort: You can also adjust the position of the lever so that it rides up higher or lower on the drops. Depending on the ergonomics of your hand/wrist, this might give you better reach. Some padding on the hoods might improve comfort at the expense of reach.

4) Body: If it's the size of the hood itself that is too large, you might be able to find a smaller brifter/brake lever itself.

5) Handlebars: have you considered changing handlebars? Even if you kept the drop style you could find slightly wider or narrower options, or a different radius on the drop curve.

Finally, if after all the adjustments, the drop style just isn't working for you, have you considered changing handlebars to a non-drop style? If you can't ride the drops or hoods, you can't shift.  So you might want to seriously consider changing out the handlebars.

6) Adaptive solutions: You might want to talk to your sports physiologist, physical therapist, occupational therapist, or adaptive sports center about what your other handlebar and brake/shifter options might be. They might recommend straight bars, a slightly curved bar, modified aerobars or something else. Which ever solution you have, you want to be able to steer, brake, and shift (in that order of importance). Since interruptors only do the first two, I'd still strongly suggest not going for that stop-gap solution and exploring further.


Bike ideas for cross-country - trail biking. I am 6ft & 85 kg

Unless steep or with lots of tree roots or embedded rocks, those sound like easy conditions for a mountain bike, and almost anything would do. Full suspension would be excess weight for no benefit. On many trails like that you don't even need suspension, just grippy tyres.

Disc brakes are nice, especially in the wet, but not essential in those conditions unless you're going very fast. However assuming you're buying new, decent quality (and plenty of rubbish ones) mountain bikes are likely to have discs.

Gears depend on the hills you expect to encounter, as well as the surface, but at a beginner level you don't need the latest 1x11 setup.

Wheel size, so long as you don't find something out of the ordinary (which makes tyres hard to buy), isn't such a big deal either as a beginner. You probably want either 29" or 27.5", but I'm taller than you and haven't had trouble on 26" wheels.

Overall you want something maintainable where you are, so if hydraulic disc brakes are rare, make sure you've got access to spares and repair services before spedning lots of money on them; if 26" wheels are rare, buy something else, but in many places 26" is a common size.


According to the Deore XT RD-M8000-SGS Long specs it should work (you are right at the limit though, but they are known to be conservative). No need to change the crank/chainrings (but you can if you want to).


This is a common misconception. The shorter teeth are not chipped or broken off.

Modern chainrings and cassette sprockets have features to assist the derailleur with moving the chain. The shorter teeth allow the chain to more easily move off the chainring and onto an adjacent one.

Definitely fairly well worn. Personally I'd stay away from something this worn that does not have replaceable chainrings. Given it's possible to get new square taper cranksets for about $30 US, I'd look for something in better shape that will give you more service life.


Renovating bike, are there addon to make the rims look thicker?

I have an older road bike and I am looking to renovate it. The frames
  on my wheels are pretty thin, and I very much like the look of thicker
  frame wheels, can I produce this effects without buying new wheels
  completely, seeing as they are kind of expensive?

Short answer: No. There is no product out there to make a rim look wider. Just wider rims. Which may or may not fit your bike.

However, if you tell us what size tires you have, provide the make & model of the bike & maybe some pictures of the frame where the tires run closest, we may be able to advise you as to whether or not you can fit wider tires. Also, I am assuming that when you say “frames on my wheels” you mean the rim.

Don’t paint the wheels. First of all if you have rim brakes (most likely) the paint will damage the bikes ability to slow effectively while braking & would eventually be rubbed off by the brakes anyway. Also, after a few miles with maybe a little gravel or road debris, the paint will chip & look trashy.

As for painting the frame, if you can afford to, you should really consider having it professionally powder coated. Even a well done spray can job will scratch easily & not last anywhere near as long as a powder coat job.

If you insist on painting it yourself, either sand blast the original finish off & then clean with an evaporating residue free solvent, or at the very least remove any and all decals or stickers, clean with solvent, roughly sand the entire surface, clean with solvent again & then paint.


Sport Hybrids For Commuting and Exercise?

If you're dealing with rough roads, a bike with slightly wider tires will be more comfortable, less likely to throw you with small obstacles/ruts, and probably have a wider selection of puncture-resistant tires.

Most road bikes are designed for very narrow tires and can't accomodate anything much wider. Narrow tires on rough roads are more likely to get caught on small ruts (etc).

You could always put the widest puncture resistant tires possible on your old road bike (maybe also a tire liner, puncture resistant tubes, etc) and pack a decent repair kit (2 tire levers, 1 tube, a few patches) into a seat bag.

I think the definition of a "sport hybrid" is fairly flexible (vague, inconsistent).  "Hybrid" almost always means a bike with flat handlebars (like a mountain bike), but with larger thin wheels like a typical road bike. A "sport" hybrid is one that's a little more geared for speed than comfort (possibly even the same as a "flat bar road bike"), so maybe has you leaned a bit more forward and has some higher end components and probably no suspension stuff.

For a less than 5 mile commute on relatively flat ground, any bike you like will do, as long as it's capable of carrying whatever you want to carry and ride comfortably over the roads. For your longer ride you're more likely to want the drop handlebars, mostly to have more positions for your hands, but also to go faster. You can add extensions or replace the bars on a flat-bar bike to get more hand positions, though.

For the somewhat longer rides, if you want to be able to go relatively fast and you have to deal with bad roads, I'd look at:

Sport hybrids
Cyclocross bikes (made for racing on mixed trails/mud/pavement)
Touring bikes (road bike designed for long trips in possibly terrible conditions. wide tires, tough frame)
"Commuter" bikes (hybrids optimized for commutes).
any number of more basic less specifically named "flat handlebar road bikes" or "hybrids"

For all of those, you're likely to want to replace the stock tires with something more puncture resistant (for the glass you don't see), and maybe have those be wider tires, too.

From your description of liking drop handlebars, I'm thinking a cyclocross bike might be the best option. Cyclocross frames tend to be very similar to road frames, but can handle wider tires. There's other less important differences that could be asked in another question. Probably won't come with handlebars as low as many modern road bikes, but that is likely to be fixable. The cheaper cyclocross bikes often have the stuff to make it easy to mount a rack and/or fenders, too.


Yes, it's normal.

The higher pressure (eg 100 psi, 6-7 bar) of the tires can squeeze stones out quite quickly.

And, yes, sometimes they can hit nearby cars, cyclists, dogs, cats, ... .

Ride on :-)


What is the difference between cheap and less cheap road bikes?

There are many causes for price difference in bikes. There are others reasons than these listed below, but they tend to fall in line with one of these four categories.

Brand

Branding is always a premium. As in every industry I can think of, some brands have a reputation that to some extent justifies a premium price. This reputation is based off a multitude of sub factors, such as warranties, customer care, recognized build quality, athlete association and such. Top brands such as Trek, Giant, Bianchi, etc. have built up a reputation over the years of their existence that people deem worthy of a premium price.

Materials

Materials used in the frame (and also components, but more on that later) affect the characteristics of the bike, but due to the nature of high-tech processes, these come at a price. For instance, high-modulus carbon fiber performs better than cheaper carbon types. The pricier stuff is lighter, stiffer, stronger, more durable or some combination of the above. Likewise, carbon has superior performance properties compared to aluminium or lower still, steel. Within the scope of any one material (carbon, aluminium or steel) there are many sub-classes that will perform better or worse - and have a price to match. The two bikes listed exemplify this point - both are made from aluminium, but the more expensive bike is made from a higher grade (7005 as opposed to 6061). The more expensive option also has a carbon fork - an expensive but potentially worthwhile investment.

Components

Bikes most commonly come as complete units, with only super high-end models available as frame only builds. This means your money is covering all the components on the bike as well as the frame. Components make a big difference to the bike's performance, from weight or strength to durability or aesthetics. The componentry of your bike directly influences the way you use it. For instance, clipless pedals (such as Shimano's SPD system) determine the way you pedal. The bike listed have some important differences in componentry:

The cheaper of the two has gear shifters separate to the brake levers. This is common on cheap road bikes, but in my opinion is incredibly annoying. Purists may argue that old bikes were made this way, but honestly, I find them almost dangerous due to the necessity for hand position changes every time you go to change gear or brake. Perhaps just a personal opinion, but worth considering.

The other big component difference is the gruppo - the drive-train, gears, etc. On the dearer model we have a FSA Omega compact BB30 Crankset. While not the top of the line, I would assume that this particular set would be more reliable or better built that the otherwise unnamed model from the cheaper option.

Finally, before we get bored of details, the wheels are an important component to consider. More expensive options are sometimes made from carbon, but stepping down from the elite we still see performance features such as flattened spokes or radial spoke arrangements. The Equation R's on the Diamondback have radial spoke lacing, but the Vilano does not.

Customization

In the realms of the super elite, performance gains become harder to achieve, and the associated cost increases drastically. There appears to be some sort of law of diminishing returns at play - the price difference between a 20kg bike and a 19kg one may be $200, while it could well cost you $2000 to save a couple of grams of paint (not kidding - check out Trek's Project One customization site, specifically the 5gm Vapor Coat Paint. That's pricey!). Essentially, we reach a point in the spectrum of bikes that performance is so good, that other factors such as custom paint or gram savings through carbon brake levers and spacers become the only avenues for improvement. This uber-rich world of cycling is almost exclusively for the professionals and hence self-funds through sponsorships and such, but it is available for anyone lucky enough to have deep pockets and exorbitant taste!

So those are the main reasons for the price discrepancy. Hopefully that should educate your purchasing decision! Good luck!


I'm not sure if I follow you exactly, but I ride road and dirt. More to it, I ride my mountain bike on the road on the way to the dirt. Here's my $0.02.

The tires on my mountain bike are inflated to about 32-35 PSI (2.2-2.4 bars), and they have a lot of rolling resistance on asphalt. The sensation of riding on them is entirely different than my road bike tires, which are typically inflated to 105-110 psi (7.2-7.6 bars). The mountain bike tires feel like they are flat, even when I know they are not. I find myself looking down at them, wondering if they are still holding air. In my defense, on the mountain bike, I use tubes filled with a sealant, so it is possible for a puncture-- a thorn, maybe, or a piece of wire from a car tire-- to cause a slow leak. When you pull the thorn or wire out, there is a little puff of air that escapes, but the sealant usually closes the leak almost immediately. But it is not foolproof, and I can't shake the feeling the tires feel flat, even if I just aired them up before riding.


What to do when there's no more adjustment room on disc brakes

Ӎσᶎ's answer was the method I went with. I just got a washer from another hub (I didn't want to use a plain old steel washer from the hardware shop because I was concerned it might be too soft, though that might not be the case) and put it on the axle next to the cone. I did that In January and it's done about 4000k without any problems since then.


Yes. If it actually measures 47mm wide inflated then it's a little caught between 2 sizes, but 700x45 tubes will work fine in it. 29x1.95-2.135ish tubes would also work, but be big. If it's Dunlop/Woods valve now then get Schrader. If it's Regina get Presta.


I think the problem is with the bottom bracket. Sometimes, when the crank arms are removed, they can be put back really badly, thus causing the pedaling system to be very hard. Or some other times it's just the bottom bracket that needs to be replaced. Once I replaced my bottom bracket, the pedaling system was better than ever!


Can road disc calipers be mounted on a mountain bike?

Are the mounting posts and position for road disc brake calipers the
  same as or similar enough to mountain bike disc calipers that you
  could put a set of road disc brakes on a mountain bike or vice-versa?

IS and post mount calipers are cross-compatible and can be seen on both MTBs and road bikes. Flat mount clipers, on the other hand, are a new thing that was designed specifically for road-type usage, with very limited presence on MTB frames (some small builders and Cannondale bikes). You can put a post mount caliper on a flat mount frame/fork using an adapter, similar to IS-to-post-mount.

  However, my question here is narrowly about how you would convert the
  brakes of a disc-equipped mountain bike to something drop bar
  compatible.

Certainly possible, but details depend on what calipers MTB has. Shimano hydraulic calipers are compatible between road and MTB levers. In fact, BR-R785 was an XT. I don't see why you can't just get a set of any Shimano hydraulic road levers and put them on. No idea about SRAM, though. You should also be aware that mechanical MTB/road calipers might have different leverage ratio, like BB7 does.

  If that can be done, what are the downsides to be aware of?

Except for existing parts compatibility I see no reason why anything might cause trouble. I'd be concerned about geometry though, drop bar will increase the reach significally, you might want a shorter stem.


If you can't feel it with your hands, maybe you should look at the pedal. One of my pedals does similar thing. When a crank was getting loose on one of my bikes it was felt with hands too, and when coasting. Also, it may be bent chain ring or broken tooth on a chain ring.


When I press on pedal, intermittent loss of power

This sounds like there's a problem with your rear hub's freehub body (assuming you're running a cassette). The pawls get messed up sometimes and cause a jump when you're pedaling. If this is the case, you can try to replace the freehub body, which requires a bit of work. You basically have to take the axle out of the hub and get a 10mm wrench down there (most common method).


Has Shimano produced Ultegra 600 Hub Set, 32 hole?

I'm no expert on Shimano components, but according to Sheldon Brown and Velobase, there were many 32H hubs from the Shimano 600 series: "Shimano added the word 'Ultegra' to their 600 group set in 1988 with the introduction of the 6400 series groupset. Also often recognized by the tri-color stripe on many of the parts."

According to Velobase, this is a 32H Shimano 600 Ultegra hub. I'm not sure if that is what you are looking for. Here is another.


If it fits and you can clamp it, it's fine.


Mercier road bike - biggest tire/wheel possible on frame

No, it is by no means universal. Frames are built with a maximum tire size in mind. Some bike include a maximum size in their specs, so you might check to see. Otherwise, it is easy enough to figure out. Since you have tires on the bike already, you can check the existing clearance and get a very good idea of what will fit.

Start by measuring the clearances. Here's where to look:

At the top of the fork – measure (or estimate) the clearance between the tread of the tire and the fork crown and the sides of the tire and the fork blades. One easy way to gauge the clearance is with a drill bit or Allen wrench.
At the chain stay bridge – here you want to look for clearance like you did at the fork (tread to bridge and side to stays) and you want to check how much room you have to install the wheel with the tire inflated. If you have vertical dropouts or track dropouts this isn't much of an issue, but with "old school" horizontal dropouts where the wheel moves forward in the frame to come out of the dropout, it can be the limiting factor (especially if you'd rather not have to deflate the tire to get the wheel out).
At the brake bridge – measure like the front fork. In my experience, this is not where the problems will lie, but double check just to be sure.

Once you know how much clearance you have you can get a pretty good idea of how a larger tire will fit. The "other" dimension on the tire is, roughly speaking, the diameter of the cross section on of the tire – imagine the wheel as a pizza, if you cut a slice and look at it from the side the tire is the outer crust (the thick round part), the 23 or 32 is the diameter of the "roll" of crust at the outer edge.

So, for you, to be able to go from a 23 mm tire to a 32 mm tire you need about 9 mm of extra radial clearance (clearance between the top of the tread and the fork crown and bridges) and about 4.5 mm of lateral clearance (between the tire walls and the fork and stays). I call this "extra" clearance because you want to maintain some additional space to allow for an untrue wheel and for junk that gets picked up by your wheels as you ride. On my Trek 620 I've got maybe 5 or 6 mm between the fork crown and my tire (they weren't thinking about fenders when they designed that bike), but 10-12 mm on the sides – aside from the fender issue that seems adequate (although it might not be if I was riding tires with a large open tread that tended to pick up rocks.

The final issue to keep in mind is that while the tires are spec'd as if they were round in cross section, many are not – the Schwalbe Marathon line for example is more oval than round, they account for this in their ISO sizes (they use the larger number, which on these tires is the radial dimension), but use the smaller size in the "700c" measurement. For example the 700x35c Marathon is a 37x622 in the ISO size. So to run this tire you'd need more "extra" radial clearance than side clearance.


Should a chain be replaced even if it's not stretched?

The 2000 miles is an estimate of when the chain will stretch.  Your chain may last longer than that.

As far as replacing it goes, I think it depends on your financial situation.  If you can easily afford a new chain, I recommend buying one.  A replaced chain means that you don't have to worry about your current chain stretching beyond the limit and damaging your bike.

If your budget makes buying a new chain difficult, you'll be all right to keep riding.  Just check the chain stretch every so often to determine when it's getting near absolutely necessary to buy a chain.


Why offset the rear rim to the hub and not the hub in the frame?

The biggest functional reason actually would be chain line.

You could make the hub shell wider, and run an offset dropout to allow the space for the gears, but then you would have to run a similar offset on the bottom bracket to maintain a usable chain line.

Running the offset on the bottom bracket would affect Q factor positioning on many riders, and while some riders like or need additional stance width, most do not.

Because a change like this requires such a radical redesign of pretty much every bicycle component, it would require a consensus from the entire range of bike manufacturers to be put into practical or wide spread use.

So you could call it tradition, but I think momentum would be more accurate. The existing body of design work would need to radically change to accommodate something like this, and that is a lot of "mass" to shift.

Since existing wheel structures and designs are working for riders as is, most companies choose to stay within the range of difference that allows the bike frame and other component designs to be affected as little as possible.

After all, there is no guarantee that an offset design would work in practice, and the benefit to it isn't major, given that existing designs work.


Campagnolo Veloce compatibility - small rear derailleur with larger (29 or larger) cassette?

All the Campagnolo deraileurs of that era were rated for 29t. If you want to try 32, you will need to find a mid Potenza derailleur (which despite being branded 11sp, will work properly with your 10sp shifters) and use an aftermarket 10sp cassette that provides the 32t sprocket.


I'd say you could go with HIIT (high intensity intervals) on a treadmill.
For example a particular training I like and find helpful is:

6-8 sets of:

1 minute very fast (18km/h for me)
1 minute middle speed (12km/h in my case)
1 minute slow (8-9 km/h)

and no stops in between.

That's a very good yet pretty hard training. Do not more than twice a week.


Calliper and disc positions are standard, as are hub widths and fork spacings for disk wheels. Minor adjustments of the calliper's position could be required.
There are however several methods for locking the wheels in the fork that will require your attention: traditional quick release or different types of through axles!


Trying to fit a Blackburn EX1 rack to my bike

I've never heard of a problem with P-clips. They are the standard way to mount a rack when the bike doesn't have upper rack braze-ons.

I don't see how the P-clips can slip. The rack you're using is solid, not hinged, so if you only mounted it to the fender eyelets, it could only rotate forward/backward around that point. As soon as you locate it with P-clips as well, there's nowhere for it to slip.

It might be possible for the nuts and bolts you use to affix the P-clips to come loose. You can use nuts with nylock inserts, or just retighten them as needed.


Safe to ride with Kenda 27 x 1/38 inch studded tires in snow/ice?

It will depend largely on your handling skills and the conditions of the snowy, icy city you live in.

Narrower tires, like what you have will cut through small amounts of snow quite easily, but will quickly bog in deeper snow and can be difficult to control when you can't see irregularities underneath the snow. Since they also need to be run at higher pressures, they tend to be a bit twitchy, which is fine on slick even surfaces, but can easily cause slips and crashes where surfaces are uneven (transitions between roads, bike paths, sidewalks, etc).

I often commute in the spring on narrower studded tires, but am very careful around transitions, or uneven slick surfaces (jumble ice).  They are great for icy patches left by melt/thaw cycles, but definitely less forgiving than a wider tire.  By contrast, I can maintain more speed or jumble ice and the like with the studded tires on my fat bike.

TL;DR I skip using them on days where you have deep snow, or in areas likely to have slick and uneven surfacing.


Strategies against getting blinded by oncoming cars

Also, you can avoid looking directly at the headlights.  Look slight off to the side, and maybe downwards a bit.  I'd probably look at the edge of the path the farthest from the road.  That way, you'll see things on the path, without your eyes looking directly into the lights of the car.

You'll still be able to see the path just fine.


For frequent use, I think it is hard to beat a lock that is built into the bike, e.g. the Axa Defender that is fixed to the fame of the bike and then locks the wheel; it also has a cable that you can use to lock the bike to the bake stand.  It’s great for a lock on a “everyday” bike, as you can’t forget to take it with you.


Is a cannondale scalpel 3 full suspension capable of trail/ downhill? (100mm Suspension)

A lot depends on what you mean by "trail/downhill" and by "work".

It wasn't that long ago that a full squish 100mm fork bike was a full on downhill machine. However, the big drawback to that bike as a descender is the relatively steep head angles.

Putting a bigger fork will help with that, but it won't help with the issue of how robust the parts are relative to the use. Lefty forks are meant for XC lightweight
applications, not for landing 10 ft drops. Putting a slightly longer and more robust fork on that bike will help a lot with feeling in control on descents, but it's still an XC bike and has limitations in how hard you can ride it.

It all depends how rugged your trails are and how hard you intend to ride.  If you still want a mostly XC bike that handles descents more effortlessly then a fork upgrade makes sense. However, if you're looking to go beyond that then you really should consider getting a different bike.

Having said all that, outside of a terrain park, I don't think there are many trails that couldn't be descended with that bike. It's just a question of how fast, how much fun and how much skill is required.


How do I help the less experienced cyclist cope with a hill climb?

For the most part, the same kind of advice you give to any cyclist will suffice here. Encourage them to take it easy at first, to give them the opportunity to experience cycling--and specifically climbing--in a supportive, non-threatening environment.

Pick a good route

What hills and roads you pick will have an effect on how the newbie cyclist perceives the ride. Lots of traffic, or many wall-like steep hills, or narrow shoulders--these will all discourage the new riders. Find a route that builds up to steeper hills gradually, with wide, well-maintained shoulders. Perhaps even take it off-road at first. You want to avoid roads like this:

...rather, look for roads with wide shoulders or even bike lanes (they tend to calm cyclists, perhaps with a false sense of safety, but they'll let your friends concentrate more on the cycling and less on the traffic.)

(This was at the top of a long hill, if that's not apparent.)

(This hill was tough, but the lanes were wide enough for passing.)

How to use your gears

There's a strange perception that you have to "tough it out" to get to the top of a hill, that spinning up a hill in a very low gear is somehow demeaning. Make it clear that it's not only okay to go to the lowest gear available, it's what many cyclists do. Explain that a little bit of planning ahead when they see the hill approaching will put them in the right gear before they need it. Building up speed on the previous downhill (if there is one) will also help.

Wait it out

Another thing that will help is patience. If they have to walk a few hills, be supportive. Wait for them at the top, or perhaps at the next turnoff on the route. Over time, this will change. Consider walking up the hills with them. (Walking a bike up a steep hill is good exercise, particularly a heavier bike!)

In conclusion

Whatever your friends achieved that day, let them know it! This may go without saying, but tell them what they did well, and how they could have more fun next time. If, in the end, they decide hills aren't for them, then avoid them on your next ride.

All hills look steeper when viewed from a distance. You might suggest that they keep telling themselves that!


Switching from 118 link chain to 114 link chain - problematic or no big deal?

Sometimes the length as provided (114, 116, 118) happens to be the exact length needed, but the norm is to size it down by removing some number of links.
The optimal length is determined by the size of your big back gear, your big chainring, and your chainstay length, with some length added on top of the minimum those factors will allow depending on the derailleur in question. If you go too short you can break your rear derailleur, derailleur hanger, chain, and/or or frame by shifting into a gear combination that overextends the rear derailleur.
Nine-speed trekking bikes can be outliers for chain length. The usual scenario for this is a 48t large chainring, 34t or 36t cog, and long chainstays, i.e. 450mm+. That bike setup being a mainstream entry in some regions is basically the biggest reason 118 link chains even exist. It's very possible you can't get away with 114.
Kindly request to buy a cut-off segment of new 9-speed chain from a bike shop plus two two-piece master links to splice it in, or Shimano pins if it's a Shimano chain and segment and if you're confident with that. (More finicky). It's not pretty but will be fine. In practice the SRAM and KMC two-piece links work with whatever 9-speed chain (except Campy) without issue, don't worry about that part.


The Kona Rove model you referenced has SRAM Rival 1x11. What you would need is an 11 speed rear shifter that uses the same derailleur actuation ratio as the drop bar shifter.

Actuation ratio is the ratio between cable length pulled per shift and the lateral movement of the derailleur cage. To get the derailleur to index on all sprockets correctly the cable length pulled multiplied by the actuation ratio must equal the sprocket center-center spacing.

SRAM gives names to the different actuation ratios they use SRAM Rival 1 used 'Exact Actuation' which means the ratio is 1:1.

As far as I know all the SRAM MTB systems use 'X-Actuation' which is not compatible with 'Exact Actuation', so none of those shifters will work.

SRAM makes road specific flat bar shifters. The page does not specify the actuation, but does say that the shifters are compatible with 11 speed rear derailleurs.

The SRAM Road Compatibility Document is a somewhat hard to interpret but I believe it says that these shifters are compatible with Rival 1x11 rear derailleurs. Look for the 'x11 Road Compatibility' page, note 'S-500' series is listed in the rear shifter box.


Can having a valve too short cause punctures?

Short answer: Probably not.

Long answer: While it is technically possible to construct, a scenario, where a tube with a presta valve would get damaged,because the valve is too short/the rim is too deep, in my opinion it is highly unlikely that this is what's causing the problem. The lock nut is great to facilitate pumping your tires, but not needed once the tube is inflated. Like many other road cyclist I know, I don't even install it. I and I have never had an issue because of this.

Generally you should look for tubes with a longer valve if you feel like the one you had was too short. AFAIK know they are available in three lengths. If you are experiencing recurring flats, you should investigate whether it always occurs in the same place and carefully examinate rim(and rim-tape coverage), and the tire.

It's not unusual for the source of the issue(for instance a shard of glass) to be inconspicuously stuck in the tire.


The solutions many people try for hand soreness include:

Padded gloves
Padded bar tape/gel inserts under the bar tape
Raising the bars, either by moving the stem up if you have spacers above it, flipping over an angled stem or getting a new stem.
Tilting the saddle backwards so that the hands aren't having push on the bars to counter you sliding forwards.
Getting a professional bike fit.


Rear brake cable temporary fix possible?

From the video, it looks like the cable has frayed inside the outer housing or something like that. I doubt there's anything you can do except get the bike shop to replace the cable.

Although most of the braking comes from the front brake, I woudln't recommend riding the bike in this state: you'd have no back-up if anything went wrong with the front brake.


How does weight and strength of a person effects the riding of bicycle at higher speeds?

TLDR -  Weight training is the wrong activity for improving both your sustained  speed (26-30kph) and your 1-minute speed (40kph).  Read below to understand why.

Background

There are three main types of skeletal muscles: slow twitch (type 1), fast oxidative (type 2 a) and fast glycolytic (type 2 b). Your make up of the three types determined primarily by genetics (with some interchangeability between type 2b and type 2a).  These muscles differ by the metabolic pathway used to power contraction, as well as contraction speed and strength and ability to perform repeated contractions.

Slow twitch (type 1) are weak and slow but are what power sustained efforts. These muscles generate power through aerobic glycolysis (i.e., "burning" oxygen).  While weaker total force output these muscles have high endurance (due to the use of oxygen). If you are doing any sustained activity over 1 minute in duration you are primarily using these muscles.  If you are a professional endurance cyclist you were likely gifted by genetics with a higher proportion of type 1 fibers than the regular joe.  (Aside from doping, it really is easier for them.)

If you are sprinting (efforts under 1 minute - like your 40kph efforts) you will be primarily using type 2a.  When you are mashing the pedals hard in a maximal effort (under 10 sec) you are using type 2b fibers. Type 2a uses a mix of anaerobic and aerobic pathways while type 2b only use anaerobic pathways.

What weight training actually does...

That leaves us with the question of what will happen when we weight train and gained 10 kilos of muscles (hypertrophy). Muscle hypertrophy occurs primarily through chronic anaerobic, high-intensity resistance activity.  This means you will be developing type 2b primarily along with some type 2a (actually changing your type 2a behave more like type 2b) and a bit of type 1 (the actual splits depends on type of resistance training).

Your ability to accelerate quickly would likely improve the most. Your 40 kph (type 2a powered) could increase a bit.    Your sustained 26-30 (kph) might increase a little bit, if you kept up aerobic training as well.

The specificity principle

This gets us to the specificity principle.  The training needs to be specific to the task.  This comes in terms of strengthening the right muscle for the action (circular pedal motion), building up connective and support tissue (strong core is important - you can't fire a cannon from a canoe! - although...) and muscle recruitment pattern (how your brain activates individual muscle fibers).

For cycling, the circular motion is un-natural.  As such we need to train your muscles with the activity at hand.

Improving sustained efforts

To improve you 26-30 kph sustained speed you would need to stay away from the weight room as we need to train type 1 muscle fibers.   We can't make these muscles much bigger per say, but more efficient.

This means improving muscle recruitment. (ask stack exchange for pedalling exercises)
This means improving aerobic metabolism efficiency. (Long Slow Days - LSD)
This means improving the lactic acid threshold. (Aerobic threshold efforts)

Most when they go on endurance rides they laugh at (1), then ride somewhere between (2) and (3); doing what we commonly refer to as junk miles.  You will need to specifically train these three components individually to get the biggest improvements your sustained speed.  A coach can be highly beneficial here.

Improving 1 minute efforts

Here we want to train our type 2a fibers and perhaps "recuit" some type 2b to be like, or function more like, like type 2a (this is a bit of a disputed topic as to the mechanism).  They gym may help a bit but something like interval training (repeated hard efforts, e.g., 2 min on 1 minute off, repeated 8 times) will do wonders.  Interval training is generally hard to do and hard to get right, a coach is recommended.


What happened to hardtails in the past 15 years?

To paraphrase the question: Why aren't there any quality hard tail mountain bikes for $300?

Wouldn't it be reasonable to expect prices to go up since 2009?
None of the following examples are an endorsement. Only an attempt to point out that there are still less expensive good bikes available.

In an aluminum frame Trek has the Marlin 5 that sells for a little over $500.
It does have 29 inch tires but it does have triple chainrings and a seven speed cassette.

If steel is OK then the Trek 820 is $400.
It has 26 inch wheels and triple chainrings with a seven speed cassette.

Maybe the shop you visited didn't have these bikes on the floor.
Less expensive name brand hard tails with triple chainrings do exist.

Most major brand bicycle companies define a type of bike and a price range they want to compete in. For example "road bikes in the $500 price range" would be a product slot in their lineup. In this case "mountain bikes in the $400 to $500 price range" would be a product slot. Specialized slots their less expensive mountain bikes between $600 and $750. All that to say - Trek isn't the only one with bikes in this slot.

The single chainring bikes you are seeing are the result of the increase in the number of speeds on cassettes and/or a focus on cross country or down hill riding. With as many as 12 speeds on the cassette some people have seen an opportunity to get rid of the front derailleur and simplify the bike for some types of riding.

Edit:
The question shifted while I was writing my answer!
I think this answer is still relevant.


Turns out that an unnoticed connection from the e-tube app on my ipad blocks any type of connection via the e-tube app on my laptop, charging, or usage generally. So after you've checked all the connections, attempted crash mode, let it sit charging, make sure that you've 'disconnected' any device in the etube app that may have inadvertently connected.


What makes a cassette mountain bike vs. road bike?

Road typically has a smaller range.  A road bike will typically come with a short cage derailleur.  Where a mountain will typically come with a medium or long cage derailleur.   Yes the mount on the freehub is compatible.  It is about the range capacity of the derailleur.


I'd give the bar ends a try. They give you a hand position or two more depending on model, and they're relatively inexpensive. Plus, I've never had slippage with my Ergon GP3's -- the clamp mechanism is excellent.

With new bars, you have to make sure that the clamp diameter of the stem matches the bar's clamp diameter, and the grip area diameter matches the shifter + brake clamps. There are some that 23.8mm (mostly used for road bars) and others with 22.2 mm (mostly used for flat bars) for the grip area.

As for bullhorns being bare metal, you wrap them in bar tape, just like drop bars for the road.

I'd also play with other adjustments on the bike, such as saddle position, bar height and stuff (an adjustable stem or quill stem if you have one makes this easy). You may be riding in a bad position or something which is causing the discomfort.


How does one become an official for bicycle races?

All of the information that you need is on this page for USA Cycling.

There are three levels for road cycling, starting with C, then B and A. C level I believe is just a clinic that you attend, pass the post test (70% minimum IIRC) and you must be 16. To move up from C to B, there are 11 modules that must be taken and passed, and then to move to Level A, there are requirements for races attended, level of races officiated, and other age requirements. The officials manuals detail these, and are located on this page.

There are different requirements for Mountain and BMX (I believe they skip the B level), and the local contacts for Missouri (If your profile location is still correct) are located on this page.

As far as fees, etc.,  that is going to vary from race to race and with the level of the race. I know at the races that our club puts on and a majority of the races in the region, the officials are compensated.


2 wheeled trailer - wheel position/weight distribution

Increasing the 'tongue' weight of the trailer (by moving the wheels to the rear, or only loading forward of the trailer wheels) does not increase the stability of the trailer or towing bike (or vehicle).

Up to a point, it doesn't matter.  This is true for all trailers, bike or auto.

Trailers with extra tongue weight are more likely to cause the tire to 'wobble' on the rim about the contact patch.  The problem is especially bad in the case of an under inflated or flat tire.  (and if you ever have a flat while you are moving... you are riding a flat tire until you stop)

During braking operations, a properly designed trailer will push slightly down as it pushes forwards to increase the rear tire's down-force.  e.g. the hitch should allow for some small rotation in the Z axis and the hitch, ideally, should be slightly below the trailer's center of gravity (CG).  (think of it as pitching down as you stop)  Which is much better than trying to lift it off the ground, which would be the case with a negative tongue weight or hitch significantly above the trailer's CG.

If the trailer was designed for (or loaded for) a neutral or light tongue weight, it is safer.  If the trailer is heavy enough that it could skid the rear wheel during a turn, it should have a braking system or speed should be reduced.


What makes snap-on roll-up reflective bands want to roll up?

If you were a kid in the 90s, you probably remember slap bracelets. They're basically the same thing. Usually made up of something like a bit of old tape measure (though you can make bistable structures out of many things).

You can make a slap bracelet by taking a bit of tape measure (say 6 inches) and rolling it up (gently but tightly), with the number side up (i.e. on the outside of the curl). See this video for an example of how to make it.

For what you want to do (and for riders in general), I recommend getting velcro reflective bands.


What tools do I absolutely need to replace brake cables?

Fourth hand cable stretcher - I think this is one tool I'll need to get, or something similar. I see Pedro's makes a version of it, I'm not sure if it's made as solidly or not. What should I look for when buying one of these?

Never found I needed one, typically I pull the inner brake cable as far as possible then close the brake calipers all the way (i.e., engage to the rim/disc), then attach the cable. Usually, I missed a bit of slack pulling by hand, which is taken up by the caliper return spring. You may need to repeat a couple times to get everything settled.

  Cutter pliers I have a couple of similar cutting pliers, I don't think I need to get another one. Or is there something special about these?

If you have cutting pliers that could cleanly cut shifter inner cabling, then you are probably fine.

  Cable housing cutter - Looks to me like this is a fancy wire stripper. Is there anything about brake housing cables that I need to know that would make using a sharp wire stripper problematic?

This is the only item on your list I found invaluable, bit it depends on the quality of brake cable housing you intend to.  If you already have cutters that can cleanly cut shifter cable housing then this will likely work on regular brake cable housing that uses a coiled construction.  If you are using "compressionless" brake housing, then only the best of the best cutters can make a clean cut.

Cable housing cutters are a special type of cutter that does a shear cut, I found most general cutters will leave large burs at the end of the cable housing (which you can file away or trim with a blunt cutter) or will not make a clean cut through higher end housing.
.


Is it more economical to true a cheap wheel or to buy a better wheelset?

Whatever you decide based on answers here I suggest you get a decent, dedicated spoke tool and print off or even buy on paper a comprehensive guide to truing wheels. You may have a multi tool with a spoke slot. Pretend you haven't. Use the brakes pads as a guide and hang the bike off a car rack or put it upside down, rather than spending a lot of money on tools which you might not use again. A spoke tool is cheap and handy for replacing the odd broken spoke.

If all goes well, you've got true (or true enough) wheels and you've learnt a skill. If you get the wheels true, and they won't stay true even though you've relieved the twist in the spokes you've got your answer and you can buy new wheels. If you find you can't improve matters enough, you're back to choosing new wheels or taking them to the shop. But you'll be better placed to make that judgment once you've developed a bit of a feel for it. It sounds like they're bad enough for now that you can't make matters significantly worse.


What is the width of Giant CR41, 32-hole rims

I went and bought a ruler. It's 13mm.

I'm kind of surprised they'd stick a 35mm tyre on a 13mm rim out of the factory. I'm going to stick 700 x 28c conti GP 4 Seasons on it unless someone points out a clear reason not to. Sheldon Brown's guide says 25 should be a max for that rim, but it also grants a bit of room for error and this rim was fine with 35's...

This also means that CR41 isn't necessarily a material/feature code and it's possible the TCX and TCR use the exact same rim.


Buying a new wheelset online: Do they come ride-ready?

Depends on where/how you purchase them and the quality of the wheel, but generally pre-built wheels need a check-over for appropriate spoke tension/truing out of the box. You can either check this yourself or pay a bike shop to do this for you.

You can avoid these checks at your own risk, obviously. But, I wouldn't recommend it, especially if they aren't high quality wheels to begin with.


Assuming disc brakes, some reasons for short pad life could be:

Riding conditions - If you're riding in gritty mud, pad life will be shorter than dry conditions.  The mud can form a grinding paste which wears the pads quicker.

Damaged rotors - If your rotors are scored or damaged, this can accelerate pad wear.  If you've worn a pad down to the backing plate this can damage the rotor and lead to shorter pad life.

Not bedding the pads in sufficiently - New pads straight out the packet need bedded in before use.  This typically involves putting them through a few braking cycles to bring them up to a high temperature.  Pads which have not been bedded in, will wear quicker when subjected to wet muddy conditions.

Pad material - Brake pads come in different materials which can have different pad lives depending on usage.  E.g. sintered pads should last longer in muddy conditions than resin pads.  However, some brake discs are not designed for sintered pads.


Two things could happen:

You pump up the tube, and after a while, the side of the tire yields. Usually when you´re sitting on the bike, because that increases the pressure a bit more. Looks like it has the plague or something, develops a well visible bulb. The bulb grows, and after a few moments or minutes poof (or bang if it´s a racing tire at 8 bars) you´re out of air. Can happen at a dangerous moment. Usually you hear a funny sound of the bulb touching your frame before and have time to slow down.

You brake, and the side of the tire disintegrates under the sudden stress. Perhaps more likely with lower pressure (otherwise (1) occurs before). Complete loss of control if it´s the front wheel.

Both of these only happen when the carcass of the tire is damaged, due to riding on a flat (likely invisible), a maladjusted brake pad, or something else that has been making quite some noise while rubbing off the rubber down to the carcass.
Visible cracks in the rubber can grow for many years before the reinforcing fabric below is destroyed. If you bend the tire, and pieces fall off, yes, then it´s had it. The crack growth is sped up a lot by riding (or even letting the bike stand in a dry shed) with too low pressure. Rubber that is bent + ozone from the air = environmental stress cracking.


Why does my inner tube have brown liquid inside? Now with internal photo

I've seen that color before. If you are filling from a compressed air tank, make sure the tank has been bled recently. More frequently in humid areas air tanks will get condensation inside. Normal maintenance is to bled the water out of the tank. The condensation rusts the inside of the tank and can eventually cause tank failure. When you put an air line on them the air comes out but a little vaporized water goes too. That gets in your tubes and builds up over time if you use the same filling source. Avoid by placing an in-line filter on your air hoses as well. Test by blowing air over your hand from a safe distance. If it's wet or damp you have found the culprit.

Experience case: They didn't bleed the compressor at the beach shop I worked at. I bled it when we upgraded to prep it for storage. One gallon of water came out of that little six gallon tank. One-sixth of the volume for air was taken up by the water and it was the cloudy brown milky color too.

Also, respectfully agreed. White liquid is often stop flat liquid filled into a tube as a flat preventative. Stop flat can be neon green in color too.


When overhauling bottom bracket bearings, is it possible to replace loose bearings with cartridge bearings?

Can you clarify if you mean a cup and cone housing, to change from loose bearings to bearings in a metal retaining cage? Like this:

ANSWER 1 These can totally be used instead of loose bearings.  There are fewer balls to carry the weight, and over time the cage may break down and get chewed up.

OR do you mean cartridge bearings with ABEC ratings like this:

ANSWER 2 No, these can't be used without major re-working of the bottom bracket.  There are adapters to do this, but they won't be cheap.

OR do you mean a cartridge bottom bracket like this:

ANSWER 3 Yes this works perfectly, is dead simple, and relatively cheap.  Plus they're greased for life and never need adjusting.  When they get crunchy, replace.  I've done this on all my bikes.


what spacing is the is the rear hub? I bought an s2c recently to commute on my track bike, two speed internal geared hub with a gain of 38% but it might be over kill for yourself.

Given your setup you have a gearing of about 55inches, if you were to switch out the rear cog to a 12 tooth you would gain 5inches, bring you to around 60 which is considered a fairly spinny ratio on a track bike.

Easiest way is to switch is the back free wheel. However it seems the lowest freewheel available is 13 tooth so you are limited. You could get a new chainring up front which would achieve the same but may need to buy a new chain too.


How do I secure a new bike outside my apartment?

Matt, this has got to be one of the most asked questions on here, have you searched through previous questions yet? That should give you some decent ideas.

All I will add is that you mention insurance. Your insurance company will likely have a list of approved locks - I'd suggest its going to be far more worth your while to consult that list than to ask a question on SE (much as the advice here is generally very good!). My betting is that the insurance co's list will contain big, heavy, hardened chains, so yes, the chain would probably be worth the weight (and the cost) if it means the difference between your insurance paying out or not.

Also your insurance will probably stipluate that the bike gets locked to something "immovable" - might be worth seeing if you have anything that might fit the bill in your basement, if not seeing if you can get permission to sink an anchor. I have heard stories of people locking their bikes to a bike rack, only for thieves to unbolt the bike rack from the floor! You may also want to find out whether your basement is considered a "public place", from the ins co's perspective, because they may place limits on the amount of time a bike could be left there. And, if its left inside, whether that would change things.

The sad fact is that if someone decides they really want your bike there's probably not a lot you can do about it - try not to get too attached to it, it's just a chunk of metal after all, and make sure you take sufficient steps that you will be compensated in the event of theft.

I suggest you go read some policy requirements.


Will this Retrospec Siddhartha bike suit my needs?

I love to surf the internet for the ultimate bike. However, I always end up going to my local friendly bike shop and making my selection with their advice. The ultimate internet bike will not be able to compete with getting the attention of a local mechanic. Most of the local guys will also take pride in the bike that they sold you and give you free service for the small jobs.


How does lubricating your chain help protect your cassette and chainrings from wearing too?

In the ideal case, the chain will not actually be rubbing significantly against the chainrings under load. As the chain wears, the spacing between the chain links becomes different from the tooth spacing, and this difference in spacing means that there is sliding contact as the teeth engage the chain.
The rollers inside the chain help to convert some of this sliding motion into rolling friction (transferring the actual sliding contact to the more protected and better lubricated internal joints of the chain), but any binding of these rollers against the pins again leads to sliding contact between the tooth and the chain.
Keeping the chain lubricated (and, as noted in the question comments, clean) will both minimize the wear that stretches the chain and prevent roller binding, thus reducing the wear on the teeth.


Bike doesn't brake immediately and comes to a squeaking stop. Do I need to get new brake pads?

You may need to replace the brake pads, and the brake calipers and levers are very probably out of proper adjustment.

As this is a safety issue, you should definitely have the brakes examined and adjusted by a bicycle repair mechanic.

If you feel confident about making adjustments yourself, and have the necessary tools, there are a number of good resources that will show you how to accomplish the task properly. My favorite is the Park Tool Company YouTube Channel. They have a specific set of videos that deal with rim brake adjustment, including identifying the brake caliper types with links to the appropriate adjustment video.

If the pads are heavily worn, or have hardened due to age you should replace them - pads are reasonably cheap. If braking is still not strong enough after making adjustments then you could consider getting a set of more expensive higher performance pads.


How to prevent my disc brakes from locking/sticking due to debris?

I think that cleaning with water is the problem. You wash them overnight, leave the bike outside. Water freezes inside of the breaks. You splash hot water again in the morning and get more water on your breaks and behind the pads that will freeze later on.

I would try avoid using water in your daily clean. Just try it for couple times. Clean the pads with dry cloth and make sure there is no water in the system. And see how it works next day.

To be honest, I have never experienced this kind of problem. And I've used disk brakes for the last 10 years in very different conditions, including thin wet mud all over the bike, brakes and pads. And I never got mud between pistons and break pads.
So I think the problem with "magnetically held" pads. My pads always been held in place by a spring.

So if you have this option, try changing the breaks, but make sure that new breaks hold the pads with a spring, not magnets.


If I was that desperate to save the frame, then the epoxy method sounds quite reasonable.

The only difference I'd make would be to use some carbon fibre in place of the aluminum strips. It's pretty cheap to get a short roll from Aliexpress

Put the bearing in and out a couple of times until it's a snug fit. Pull it out, epoxy the carbon, pop it back into place, clean excess resin off

If you can do it with the bearing wrapped in glad wrap, you may not even have to make it your last ever bearing change as you should be able to remove it once the epoxy is set

Whilst the aluminium will have lost some strength, it's not going to fail catastrophically in that position as it's really well braced


What are these eyelets for on my 2015 Diverge?

The smaller hole is for  Specialized's proprietary "plug and play" fenders, while the larger is for a rear rack.  The larger hole can also be used as an alternate mounting point for other types of fenders. For a rear rack on the carbon frame Diverge, it is intended you use the Specialized Rear Rack Seat Collar (second picture), which combines a seat collar and mounting eyelets for a rear rack.


For the inner nut you need a special wrench that is slimmer than a usual one - as slim as the nut is. For the outer nut a normal wrench will do - hold the inner one and turn the outer one until they no longer lock each other. Then you can take them off both.


Rear pannier bags on touring mountain bike

One issue is heel clearance. You can normally sort this out but not with large panniers especially with big feet.

A bigger issue is fitting a rack. Your options are very limited if you have rear suspension (including low weight limits); even disc brakes are a restriction, though not as much in the last few years.

Panniers also add quite a bit of width where you don't want it on narrow trails. Typical bikepacking bags are narrower and often higher.

On steep uphills you don't want too much weight at the back - the front wheel will lose grip or even contact. This is worse on MTBs than even the same trails on a bike with a longer wheelbase, no suspension, and harder tyres. Steep descents are less of a problem in that you wouldn't normally do them fully loaded.

I suspect that the MTB touring you've seen isn't as heavily loaded as the road/trail touring you've ridden.

These factors combine to influence another: habit. People copy what they've seen, often applying this copying to milder conditions (e.g. using solutions that are necessary on a full-sus, but on a hardtail).


Does the Brooks Cambium C17 Saddle rub off?

If you're at all concerned, just go for the natural colored cambium saddle, which I don't think is dyed, so it shouldn't be an issue with that one.  I have not had any issue with colors tranferring from the slate colored saddle to my lighter colored synthetic shorts. However, After riding the slate colored saddle, the gray faded and now appears more brown.  So I would avoid the slate colored saddle if you're concerned.

I actually had the reverse problem using the natural colored cambium saddle which I was demoing from a local shop.  The dye in my dark indigo colored jeans transferred to the saddle and turned it somewhat blue.


Look up the proper chain for the components. XT is not a size - that is the group level.   You should size the chain for the number of speeds (gears).

Inspect the cassette.  As they wear the teeth get sharper spaces get longer.  Visually compare it to a new cassette even if you are looking at a picture.

If your chain snapped then possible something else is damaged.  Inspect all the drive components.

A cassette typically last 2-3 chains.  If you get a new cassette then change the chain.

A worn chain wears a cassette down faster.
And a worn cassette wears a chain down faster.

A chain is cheaper and easier to change so cheaper to stay with a fresh chain.
There are tools to measure chain stretch.
Replace a stretched chain.

A new chain on a worn cassette will jump - basically both the chain and cassette stretch.


Is it acceptable to wear kit from old team?

I guess it's a matter of opinion, and cyclists have a lot of rules, but personally I would go for it. You were actually on the team after all. I think that the rule #17 from the above link applies here. Personally, I'd rather wear old kit from a team I was personally on than wear kit from a pro team that I have no affiliation with, or even non-pro-kit with logos plastered all over it.

Might even be a great way to start up a conversation with people who recognize the kit, either riders who are currently on the team or even just people who went to that school.


EBikes - is torque a good predictor of how easy it will feel to go uphill?

To be frank, I would not put much stock in quoted ratings for motors.
Before I bought my electric bike, I test rode something like eight or nine different makes and models, equipped with a range of different motors (Bafang, Bosch, Brose, Yamaha, maybe some others), some with mid-drive, some with hub drive.
All of my test rides included some steep hill climbs.
The biggest difference I noted was that bikes that had a throttle were the easiest to go up the hill, and this was simply because it was possible to go up the hill with no pedaling at all.
Among the bikes that required pedaling for motor boost, there did not seem to be any direct relationship between quoted motor torque and perceived boost. I attribute this to there being too many variables involved.
For example, even within one particular line of bikes equipped with Bosch Performance CX motors, there were options for the gearing (Nuvinci, now Enviolo, vs Rohloff) as well as options for max speed (in the US, 20 mph vs 28 mph). The difference in gearing, as well as motor setting for the max speed, meant that even with the same nominal torque rating, different bikes climbed hills differently. For example, the 20 mph bikes were better climbers than the 28 mph bikes.
That said, all of the bikes made all but the steepest hills effortless to climb (up to the maximum speed rating for the bike), and even on the steepest hills I could easily double my speed as compared to riding a conventional bike (e.g. a hill I'd normally take at 4-5 mph, I could go up at 8-10 mph on an electric bike).
These tests were ridden entirely on paved surfaces, in a city where the steepest hills are about a 20% grade. Most of the test rides were in neighborhoods where the steepest hills available to me were in around 10-15% grade. Below 10% grade, most of the bikes provided enough power that I could reach the bike's maximum speed going uphill; the main exception being the 28 mph bike that I tried, which didn't have as much power going uphill as the other bikes.
Beyond the fact that the quoted torque for a motor won't tell you very much about how that bike compares to another, I will also suggest that you probably shouldn't care very much anyway. There is a vast difference between climbing a hill with an electric bike as compared to a conventional bike, and only very minor differences in effort climbing a hill comparing one electric bike to another.
In addition, there are a number of other aspects about an electric bike that IMHO should take much higher priority in terms of selection, including battery size and cost, drive configuration (mid- vs hub-drive), motor controller (I found the cadence-sensing motors very annoying, and the torque-sensing motors very natural to ride), and of course cost. And those aspects are overshadowed by the most important, which is simply how the bike feels to you when you ride it. How do you like the handling, how comfortable is the rider position between seat and handlerbars, etc.


Fork slider caps worn out. Replacements?

I was able to dig up a couple vendors providing replacements:

JEJames Cycles
Fixed Gear Frenzy

And in case you're looking at doing this yourself:

SR Suntour: How to change slider sleeves


Summary: buying just the dust-cap is unlikely, normally you buy new cones and often a new axle, but that's because new cones are cheap. You'd only buy a new hub if something else is damaged (rare). You won't be able to fit sealed bearings.

I the picture below from the Park site is the bearing cone and cap. I assume that's the cap you're talking about?

That cap is just a dust/dirt shield and you can run without it (as you possibly have been doing) but that will shorten the life of the bearings.

Normally a bike shop will replace the bearings and cones shown at the same time, leaving the cups in the hub alone (except for cleaning). Few hubs have replaceable cups. Some shops will only stock complete axles with cones as the axle is a cheap part and it's easier to have a known-good axle every time (they sometimes bend just a little, enough to wear out bearings fast but not enough to see unless you roll the axle on a dead flat surface). Other shops stock a bunch of cones separately, but have to keep them carefully arranged in pairs since you almost never replace just one cone, and it's annoying to have to sort through the pile looking for an exact match. Another reason to use axles to hold them together :)

You won't be able to put sealed bearings into a hub not designed for them, the recess that the bearings sit is is different (one has a bearing cup, the other a cylindrical recess for a sealed bearing). If you had a lathe you might be able to cut the cups out... but it'd still be cheaper to just buy a new hub. You could possible bodge in sealed bearings buy just sliding them along the axle until they hit the cups and buying the right size to fit inside the recess in the hub, but you wouldn't get much overlap there so you'd probably break the hub in short order.


How can somebody with Type I diabetes keep blood sugar levels acceptable during and after a multi-hour ride?

I too am a type one diabetic and I understand your concerns, how ever I might have some suggestions to help with your problem. I always make sure to carry a Camelbak pack with me to enure I have my Glucometer and other supplies along. I check my sugars before I start the ride, if possible I might have a little extra food at the time, just to get me started.

I also make sure to carry along some chocolate bars if my sugars get low. I find Oh Henry or Mars Bars to be good, since they have various types of sugar in them and they also have peanuts to help sustain the glucose intake. In addition to the sugar I bring along, I also bring protein bars since those have carbs in them, but also a lot of protein to help release the glucose in to your system slowly.

The name brand or protein bars I use is called "Clif Builders" and you can get them at Costco in Canada, hopefully you could get them in your area as well or a similar product, the important thing is that the protein bars release the carbs slowly.

I also drop each of my insulin dosages by 2 units on my morning dose and sometimes my evening dose also gets adjusted because after a long ride your body continues to burn sugar at an accelerated rate.

This helps me not need to overeat, the high problem of high sugars after a ride is due to over compensating for the amount you fuel being burnt on the ride and most important of all at least until you get to know you routes really well and what you truly need for food intake, make sure to check your blood sugars on the ride before you eat and on a regular basis and bring along extra protein and chocolate bars, they don't take up much space and the Camelbak will have lots of room for them. Remember the Chocolate bars are only for when your sugars get low, otherwise stick to the protein bars.

You will also find your rides will be better and more energetic if your sugars are in the nominal range. The other advantage to lowering your dosage on riding days, is that it will help you lean down. It doesn't help you at all if you have to overeat to keep your sugars at a normal level, but if you lower your dosage and understand that the bike riding it self will lower your sugars to a degree it will make it easier, it really is about knowing your body how it burns sugar and how to balance it all on days you ride.

P.S. My longest ride so far was 55Kms and I found by dropping my morning dosage, it helped me out in not battling the insulin to keep my sugars up at a normal level. Perhaps if you are going on a longer ride you might need to lower your dosage another unit or two, don't make huge changes in dosages until you know your insulin needs. 2 units less is quite safe and make sure even if you lower your dosage to bring plenty of food along.

I hope you find this information helpful, enjoy the rides.


You need a chain wear gauge or other accurate chain wear/length measurement to be sure. Chains shouldn’t be used past 0.75% elongation. For modern 11 or 12 speed chains I’ve even heard 0.5%.
A worn chain will accelerate cassette wear, especially if the cassette is new.
On new chainrings a worn cassette can cause chain suck.
50km per week over 4 months is 800km. That’s usually not enough to reach 0.5% elongation unless you were riding in adverse conditions (e.g. mud, sand, dust, rain) with high power and/or didn’t clean and lube the chain.
If your current chain is only somewhat worn you could get a new one for the new cassette but keep the used chain for later. After the cassette has been through one or two chains you can use the used chain.


How to determine tyre pressure for trail descents?

Snake bites (i.e pinch flats) depend on tyre strength, tube thickness (in case you use tubes), rider weight, riding style, terain and luck (or unluck). You really need to experiment with the pressures. For example test if 25/30 PSI (front/rear) feels good and see how long you can go with that without a pinch flat. If you get a pinch flat on the rear once a year then I guess you can continue using 25/30. But if you, like me, get them once a week then you definitelly need to increase the pressure. Note that pinch flats usually happen on the rear. In the last 3 years I've had 2 pinch flats on the front and like 20 on the rear.

If in the end of this iterative process you have increased the pressure too much (e.g 45+ PSI) then there is a high possibility that the specific bike and tyres you use are not meant to do what you make them do. i.e you need heavier tyres or more suspension.

Note that if you switch to tubeless you'll be able to run the same PSI and most probably completely avoid pinch flats. Note though that pinch flats are still possible.

Also, make sure you read:

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-tire-pressure-2011.html
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-The-Point-Tire-Pressure-2013.html

For the other specific questions:

Can this be expressed as a function of the recommended minimum and maximum pressure?

No. Also, not many people agree with the min/max numbers. Some people say that the max is a warning to never exceed that and just a number to reach when initially inflating the tyre in order to let it seat correctly. Then you deflate to your desired number.

Is it different for the front and rear tire?

Definitelly. Some people say around 5 PSI more on the rear.


How do I know when it's time to pump up my tires?

The correct tire pressure for you is typically not whats written on the tire sidewall. That's an arbitrary number determined by the marketing and legal departments at the tire manufacturer, not the engineers (usually it leads to an overinflated tire, which can damage the wheel and reduce control of the bike). You'll have to play with the pressure to get a properly inflated tire. Various manufacturers have rough guidelines for what pressures are good based on weight and tire size, but they're just guidelines -- you have to play with it on your own, since tire pressure is a personal preference (given that it is not under or over inflated --  a properly inflated tire absorbs hazards, doesn't pinch flat and has low rolling resistance, whereas an under inflated tire can pinch flat and also damage the wheel). A rule of thumb is that the rear tire should be 10% higher pressure than the front due to the load difference. You may also use different pressures depending on season or other conditions.

As for how often you need to check your tire pressure, note that unless the tire is severely underinflated, you won't notice it by visual inspection or by just pushing on the tire (depending on what pressures you're running). I'd suggest using a floor pump with a pressure gauge and associating proper inflation with particular pressures for a given tire.

You lose pressure from road hazards (e.g. if you hit a bump, some air might come out) as well as leaks (inner tubes and tires are porous to some extent, and valves leak a bit). The rate at which you lose air depends on your components and your rides. Ideally, you'd check before every ride, but for most people, weekly is a good enough option.


The easiest method would be to remove one of the spokes, measure the length , and reinsert the spoke. The length of the spoke needs to be such that all of the spoke's thread is inserted into the nipple's thread. Iirc most nipples have 19 revolutions of thread. Which should be approx 8-10mm length. Keep in mind the first part of the nipple is unthreaded (bore).

Depending in the rim's wall thickness and spoke nipple flange thickness (thickness of the wider part of the spoke nipple) you will have to add some extra length to the spokes if you measure them whilst in the wheel. This should be approx 3-4 mm for most wheels. But as previously mentioned the other method is more accurate (measuring removed spoke).

some more info on the bore: Purpose of 'bore' on spoke nipples - why are spoke nipples not threaded through their entire length?


What is the bicycle Danny MacAskill uses in his "Way Back Home" video?

He rides a prototype trials bike by Inspired Bicycles that will be called 'Skye' when it comes out.

Full details on his rig:

http://www.inspiredbicycles.com/danny_macaskill_r3.php

Inspired sell frames that you can build up to your own specification, useful if you already have a bike that isn't quite up to the job as you can move the parts across and go from there. They also sell complete bikes.

I am sure someone can correct me on this, however, the mainstream brands do not really create anything that comes near to what you get with an Inspired trials bike. There are other brands, e.g. Mission, you may want to see what your nearest LBS has, chances are that they may have someone working there that knows their stuff and has passion for it.

For now it would not do any harm to email Inspired Bicycles to see when the 'Skye' frame/bike is out and find out how much it is likely to cost.


My chain skips on the front chain rings. What do I do?

Chains stretch over time and, as they do that, they wear the chain rings and cogs to match their new size.  By the time the chain starts skipping on the chain rings, the teeth have become so badly worn that there's no alternative to replacing the chain rings, chain and rear cogs.  Unfortunately, that probably will cost $75+ in parts.

The way to avoid this in future is to replace your chain before it's stretched so much that it destroys the rest of your drivetrain.  Chains themselves aren't very expensive and replacing them is one of the running costs of a bike. You can check how worn your chain is by using a chain checker – you can get them more cheaply than the one I've linked to.


Inline barrel adjusters shouldn't need be glued or anything -- they're held where they are due to friction.

Depending on the adjuster, you put ferrules on both ends of the housing and then stick it in the ends of the adjuster, or you put some ferrule-like adjuster on one side of the housing and then a ferrule on the other and stick both ends into the adjuster or similar. All of them will do something like this if you remove the tension and pull them apart. And you normally hold one part and turn the other.

Other barrel adjusters like the ones on frame stops will thread in or have some other locking mechanism.

As for the particular adjuster you have, that seems to be a Jagwire inline adjuster which is normally installed in the middle of a cable -- normally, the STI shifters come with something like this installed as the adjuster (Shimano Y6UM98010, see this EV for example):

After market options include Jagwire BSA035 and Ritchey STI Barrel Adjusters and what not.


The rear shifter is compatible with the 7700. The front 2x is only compatible with R3000 2x because of how it pulls the cable. If you're running a triple that you can interchange parts.


Well, for one thing I would suggest trying to fix this problem while your chain is on your largest (highest) gear. Not only will you not have to worry about the cage hitting or being too close to your cranks, but usually I find that by making it fit with my chain on that highest gear, the other gears pretty much sort themselves out.

For securing the dérailleur to your frame, I typically aim for 2-4 cm above my largest chainring. After fixing the height, adjust your limiting screws on the dérailleur so that the cage is about 2 cm from the outside of your largest chainring and again about 2 cm from the inside of your smallest chainring (the first gear, smallest gear.)

Now, unfortunately (and especially if you're running a Shimano group set, there will most likely still be some noise from the chain rubbing against the dérailleur cage. This is something that most riders just have to deal with. I personally try and keep the noise to a minimum by making sure my chain is clean and lubed well so that it glides through the cage easier and quieter.

Good luck fixing your problem!


Trying to find Derailleur hanger for Triace A310

While the Triace A310 is an entry level bike I wouldn't put it in the same class as a Walmart  BSO (bicycle shaped object). It doesn't appear to be a bike brand common to the U.S. Your best bet would be to remove the hanger and take it to your local bike shop. Most shops have a wall chart that has full size photos of the 50-60 most common types. You match yours' to the example and they can order you a #46 hanger or what ever number is appropriate. If it is one of the less common type that they don't stock you may want to order two so you have a spare.


Is it a good idea to switch to hub gear?

No, it is not a good idea.

You'd be spending more than the bike is worth even for a basic internal gear hub (even assuming you got the wheel rebuilt for free using the existing rim and spokes, if possible), let alone buying a rear wheel with an IGH built in. You do need a chain tensioning pulley or horizontal dropouts, which while can be built more robustly than most derailleurs, still is more complicated than most people who want an IGH would deal with and eliminates one of the key advantages.

If you want better gearing, your best bet is probably to use a different freewheel (TZ71 is a 7 speed shimano freewheel - note that this is not the same as a cassette). If you want a lower gear, you may want to find an old 7 speed Shimano Megarange freewheel (or more likely, you'l probably have to go Sunrace these days). Any higher probably doesn't make much sense (Sunrace makes a 13t I think in 7 speed, but its not buying you much, with that style of bike - just spin faster).

Removing the wheel with an IGH on that bike would be about as complex as without it due to the pulley, so you're not significantly changing the complexity. Cleaning is about as difficult as well, with a chain cleaner like the Park Tool CG-2, and you still have to oil occasionally either way.

If you want an easier way to remove the rear wheel, consider getting a quick release wheel if you do not have one already (if you have a solid axle, you could try adding axle release).

But really, with a bike of that quality, you're best off just keeping it running and if you want to do any upgrades, just buy a better bike to begin with and then start upgrading it. If you want to run an IGH, look for something designed for it (likely, it will have horizontal dropouts - think something like Surly CrossCheck).


MegaEXO Omega BB and Hollowtech II crank compatibility?

No, the Omega MegaEXO FSA system uses a 19mm spindle diameter and hollowtech II is 24mm.

FSA BB86 BB (For alloy cranksets) or Shimano BB91 Road Press Fit Bottom Bracket will work.


Need opinion on upgrading groupset for my road bike

That's a nice enough bike, but it's not something to upgrade, you bought the wrong bike. Either you want a vintage bike in which case it sounds great, or you just want a road bike, in which case something with Shimano Claris R2000 would be suitable.
Assuming you have 400EX, then this dates from 1990-1992. 600EX would be pre 1988, so it's possible you actually have Exage Sport, which is more contemporary with 600EX.
631 tubing however suggests more 1990s than 1980s
I would suggest a value maybe £200? https://www.facebook.com/Retrobicyclesrecycle/posts/3754668234607817
There is nothing special about those components, though they aren't bad.
I had a look on fleabay and you could buy a generic modern(ish) bike such as a Triban 540 with 2x10 speed 105 and carbon fork for about £300. Or you could buy a new 2 x 8 speed bike such as the RC 120 for £400.
Not much to do with it except buy some new tyres if they've perished. Sell it if you don't like it. Buy a more suitable bike.


What brand of bar tape does Raleigh use on brand new bikes?

Raleigh sells components and accessories by various brands including its own Raleigh Special Products RSP line.

http://www.raleigh.co.uk/ProductType/?pc=2&pt=297


I think its strikingly similar to a VanMoof Electric S or an S2 bike.

Note the panel in the forward part of the top tube but aft of the headtube.
Crankset and Mudguards are very similar to the VanMoof pictured
The name "alex" is some aftermarket decal and a distraction.
Its likely a European bike or design, because it has a front dynamo hub to make electricity while riding, and permanently fixed lights.

Simple differences:

The grey bracket on the seat tube is a holder for a kids seat.  Personally I'd recommend a different style, but that's my preference.
That front basket must be some kind of optional add-on made for the bike.  It clearly fastens to the elongated "prow-tube" (?) and relocates or duplicates the on-board integrated front light.

They're pretty pricey electric bikes overall, with a strong hipster appeal.

Further reading https://www.theverge.com/2018/5/29/17404180/vanmoof-s2-x2-price-date-specs


The cracking noise can be produced by nearly any component of your bike.
The frame transmits the noise and it only seems like to come from your bottom bracket (or you think it is the source because of pedalling).
I had a similar problem with several of my bikes - in my experience it is normally a component which is not 100% tightened.
I would check following things:

are the quick releases tight enough (rims and seatpost)
are the screws tight enough (especially on the saddle)

You can try to find the noise by stepping on one pedal while the bike is standing still.


It would help if you posted a picture of your current setup in order to see how much clearance you have, but, any 700c or 29" tire will work provided it's not too wide to fit in your frame. Your local bike shop should have a wide assortment of tires that are suitable.


You are undertightening the crank bolts on initial installation. 44Nm or 33 ft-lb work well as generic values for square taper cranks. A basic large beam-type torque wrench works well for crank bolts. If you aren't able to get one, it's safe for basic square taper cranks to reef like mad with something like a 12" ratchet or breaker bar. You'll be exceeding that torque value, but bad things won't happen. Fancier cranks with no extra material to give could eventually crack by doing so, but probably won't.
Always grease the threads and the bolt shoulder. Loctite is not optimal in this application, but it's also sufficient as an assembly lubricant to keep damage from occurring as long as there's appropriate torque.
Once the crank has come loose on the spindle, there's no fixing it. The press interface will never be right again. Throw them away. The spindle is hardened steel and is unaffected in almost all cases. If you're wrenching for others who have this problem, you must not re-install the crank. Doing so is irresponsible because the next time it comes loose, it might happen suddenly and cause a loss of balance and potentially a crash.
Square taper crank interfaces that are correctly installed don't have problems with seizure.
Some perceived loosening of the bolt is normal because as cranks are ridden, they can move around on the spindle enough to decrease thread preload. This is part of the reason why crank bolts are such high-torque fasteners; they must have some extra preload to give to avoid problems from this effect. Jobst Brandt wrote extensively about this on rec.bicycles.tech, material you can find archived by searching around. There are some dynamics happening that aren't readily apparent. Part of the conversation involves whether to grease the taper or not, which I won't get into here because it's outside the scope of the question, and in the end it's fine either way with some qualifiers.


Using a chain-type oil filter wrench as a chain whip

You can make your own chainwhip, either "from scratch", as the video below shows, or using the oil filter wrench for sourcing the base parts (handle, piece of chain).

I agree with others that the "oil whip" has a somewhat short handle.  Taking a cassette off can be a pain without proper leverage, so I would look for a longer (1.5 to 2 times longer) piece of metal to serve as a handle for a DIY variant.


Where is the Shimano e-tube project light connection setting?

Shimano hides this kind of information behind its TEC site. This is for 'industry professionals', but you can register by selecting some random bike shop as your place of work, there are no checks.
https://www.shimano-tec.com/
Here are screenshots from the relevant course https://www.shimano-tec.com/mod/scorm/view.php?id=2310

I downloaded the software myself, and it was extremely easy to find the setting following these steps:

from main menu click 'e-bike'
screen appears as in the screenshots above, but without the components (since I do not own them)
then after connecting to the computer and running 'connection check', you can select the 'drive unit' then click customize


What does "modulate" mean when referring to brakes?

Brake modulation how much fine control you have to apply a range of braking power distributed over the pull of your brake levers.

No modulation is basically no braking vs wheel locking.  Having low modulation will mean it's hard to feather the brakes and you can only really lock up the pads.  Too much modulation means you will bottom out on the levers before you lock up on the wheels. Ideal modulation gives you access to the whole range of braking power desired and allows you to apply it evenly across the range of the brake lever, giving you fine control over feathering the brakes, stopping firmly, or locking the wheel.

via simkinsdesigns.com/modulation.htm


Wheel squeaking at slow speeds and slight play in the wheel bearings, related?

If there is noticeable play in the wheel bearings, they are worn or need adjusting. Noise is most likely related to this.

The difference when rotating the wheel forward or back, or off the ground is due to the different loads on it.

You first need to figure out what kind of bearings you have in your hub. Cartridge bearing should just be replaced. Cup and cone style can be disassembled re-greased and adjusted (or replaced if they are worn out).


Why are disk brakes not completely round on the outside?

For the brakes to self clean and remain effective, the surface of the pad must transition from metal to void at least once every revolution across the entire pad (i.e. no continuous line of metal). The 'sawtooth' rim achieves this. Some very cheap disks do not achieve this.

You may find the very good answer by @trailmax in this question useful.


What is the technical name for the push-on type of wheels that are found on some bicycle trailers?

As various people have noted, wheelchair hub is the correct term for these one-sided, push-button release hubs.

It goes without saying that this type of mechanism is now being widely used in cycle trailers and recumbent trikes, but we still call them wheelchair hubs even though "real" wheelchair hubs have much shorter axles than are commonly found on trailers and recumbents (see image above).


Where can I find a replacement part for a seatpost collar?

Through a lot of searching, I can't say there's anywhere that sells that specific part; however, you may have some luck contacting the manufacturer or distributor directly.

But, a much easier and simpler solution would be to replace the clamp/collar entirely. It's probably pretty worn out if you're missing that piece anyway!

Check out the great selection over at Jenson USA, or your favorite LBS.


Upgrading my cockpit- brakes, stem and bars for longer reach

Be aware, if you aren't already, that installing a longer stem will change the steering response - you will need to put in more effort to steer the same amount.

Another way of increasing reach is to change the position of your saddle. If your saddle has rails, then usually you loosen a bolt under the saddle and slide your saddle backwards.

Also, seatposts have a varying amount of layback/setback (the amount by which the saddle is offset), so you could increase reach by finding a seatpost with more layback.

If you don't want to change your seated position, then to counteract the effect of lengthening the stem, you can increase the width of the bars. I'd suggest remaining with flat bars for city riding, unless you want a more aero position. If you stay with flat bars then you can keep the brakes you have, and maybe refresh the cables and blocks for increased performance.

Another reason for sticking with flat bars is that the bike looks fantastic as it is - it would be a shame to change too much about it...


Tightening rear quick release stops rear wheel

The hub is adjusted too tight, or there is damage to the bearing track which cause higher than normal friction when the bearings are compressed.

You're on the right track.


Caliper bolts after crash: repair or replace?

My vote is for replacement. It does after all hold on the brake a very important component. Bending the bolt may cause microscopic cracks that could cause the bolt to fail with no warning.


What does this rod inside the my american classic seat post do?

I had a Peugeot bike once where the seatpost didn't have the usual clamp but a similar system to hold it in the seat-tube. The system was not very practical because if you wanted to adjust the saddle height you could only do so if the saddle was removed. The bolt was tightened from the top of the seatpost. There was a second draw-back: the seat-tube being rather thin walled you had to be be careful when tightening or you could ruin the tube.
Your bicycle has a normal clamp so I would remove this long bolt with the cone and save hassle and weight.


Safety of lateral (flexible) flags to prevent cars from passing too closely and signaling

Going straight from the right turn lane is a bad idea, and very few legal systems allow it. Partly because it's suicidal, and partly because it's stupid. Either way, the legal authorities have to clean up the mess. So you should, and almost certainly are legally required to, enter the "straight ahead" lane in that situation.

I typed a rough description into the google and got some examples of reflectors on poles like the light you're thinking about.

You could easily modify one of those, or build your own. I believe they're legal, at least in Australia (where I live) but I suspect that no-one would pull you over if it's not (except in NSW, where I live, for reasons to stupid to go in to).

Note that the problem you're trying to overcome is not drivers who are actually blind, but inattentional blindness. The photons are reaching their eyes, but their brain is filtering out all the distracting irrelevancies so they can actually operate their vehicle.At best cyclists fall into the "why would I look for a cyclist, there are no cyclists here" subconscious category of "things not to bother looking for". The way round that is to have so many cyclists on all the roads that motorists know they're always there and consequently look out for them.

Overall, though, it sounds as though you either lack confidence or experience, or you're riding on very busy roads. It might help to browse the safety tag here  for other answers.

(and my browser is not letting me paste any more links in, so I'm going to leave them out. Sorry)


Upgrading drive train for Cannondale Trail 6

You will need to change the rear shifter, also best to install new cables (inners and outers) to get the most out of the upgrade.

No need to stick with your existing brand. Microshift do a range of well priced products that would suit that bike very well.

In Shimano, XT quality is probably spending too much for that bike, Deore is practically the same quality  the same just a bit heavier and a few less features (e.g. brake levers on Deore miss out on the tool-less reach adjust and miss the bite ajust)


Black threads are coming of my tire. Does it need to be replaced?

That's thread from the layer of fabric they use to cover the tire bead, they sometimes fray a  little, just cut them off, they're not part of the tire structure.


My son and I have had direct experience with this (he is helping me write this).  I realize this thread is very old, but I put this here in case others are finding it.
First, check the chain.  If it is worn too much (they elongate over time) it won't grab the teeth.
Second, Check the chainring,  Are the teeth sharp?  If so, you need to replace it?
Third, check the teeth on the rear cog.  Again, if the are sharp, you need to replace it.