What happens to the dynamics of a bike as a trailer load approaches a significant percentage of the weight of the bike and rider?

My heaviest weight ever was two computer UPS.

At home I weighed each wheel and the hitch before unloading and found 42 and 46 kg on the wheels, and 10 kg on the nose, giving a total trailer+load weight of 98 kilos.

I was using my folding bike, which weighs 15 kilos and I'm roughly 95 kilos, for a total of 110 kilos.  So Bike+Rider was 11% more than trailer+load.

 Yes it was strapped down a lot better for the ride.

My experiences:

Getting moving is hard work - simply crossing a gutter and up the camber of the road to the centerline was a challenge.
Moving smoothly was difficult too.  One tends to have a power stroke then a lighter moment as the pedals go over the top.  The trailer wants to keep moving so it alternaltely resists the power stroke and then pushes your bike while the trailer moves faster than the bike.
Extreme case, my journey had to cross a railway line with an elevation change of ~1.5 m in about 15 metres so a 5% gradient.  I had to drop to bottom gear (15ish gear inches on that bike!) to keep moving.
Downhills are strange - the trailer's weight pushes your whole bike and it feels like a much steeper grade.  You get the feeling that braking is not going to work so don't even try it.  I imagine this is how you would feel with no/failed brakes on a downhill grade.
Bottoming out - You've just ridden through a low spot, perhaps across a driveway gutter or a dip in the road.  The trailer is still on the downhill and is pushing your bike up the other side.   This reminds me of a simple electrified bike I rode, which was on or off.  The sensation might be like a tandem where the stoker has just started pushing real hard unexpectedly.
Braking - Everything takes about 4 times as long when you weigh 2 times as much.  Stopping distances are 4 times longer for the same speed.  Although there's only twice as much kinetic energy to dissipate in the brakes, it's not possible to brake as efficiently because of...
Braking kick - I had a smaller load on my trailer - perhaps 50 kilos of tools going to a bike fixup.  I braked to a stop at a red traffic light, using my habitual both brake stop, not fast and not harsh.  But the front brake took weight off the rear, and the trailer was able to push the rear wheel up off the ground and then pushed it sideways into the traffic lane somewhat.   UPSHOT: when towing a heavily loaded trailer, use predomenantly rear wheel braking, and remember to shift your body weight backwards.
Cornering dymanics.  Your bike can lean into a corner, but a two wheeled trailer can't.  I managed to roll my trailer with a 68 kilo load of two landrover wheels.  The whole trailer rotated on the coupling (its designed to allow this) and skidded on the road on its left side (outside of the turn) They were too big to lie flat so looked like this:

This managed to tweak my rear axle so it needed reseating to be straight.
Flats Be warned that you're more likely to flat a trailer wheel if you hit something sharp while heavily loaded.  If its heavy enough, impacts can damage your wheel rim too.  Changing a flat tyre is no fun if you need to unload it all to get it light enough to remove the wheel.

The maximum load of your trailer is going to be the minimum of the material strength of the load-carrying frame, (note mine has an 18mm slab of customwood as a bed, many are just cloth), the load carrying maximum of your trailer chassis, and however much your tyres/wheels and axles/axlemounts can carry.


Topeak rack - rear light bracket is annoying

Sure you can cut it off after all you bought it.
Personally, I would keep it as you never know down the road if you want to mount something on there and it is not all that ugly.
For example what if you want to buy a rear facing bike rader (e.g. Garmin Varia) that has really poor factory mounting hardware. For me it took almost a week of periodically thinking how can I mount this thing to my road bike without risking it falling off and keeping my underseat bag where I have my flat kit. Finally I came up with a solution that involved a 3rd party bracket and the light strap on my underseat bag. I certainly would not have expected to use that strap on my bag in that manner when I bought it almost 2 years ago. So if I was just to say well let me cut it off, I would probably be buying a new bag in order to run my current setup.
Until you find a better use for the area, you could always try to use the area to add more visibility with things like a reflective sticker or even reflective circles that screw into the holes already cut in it.
Hope that helps.


I'm wondering, if anyone have ever faced with same issue when starts to use cleats. What changes can you suggest trying to alleviate the problems I have described?

After I first started using cleats, I started to developed knee pain. I asked about that here: you may like some of the answers. I discovered that in my case, the cause was the placement of my U-lock, which meant that my left leg travelled slightly further away from the top-bar than my right. Having the feet locked in place can cause problems (from repetitive strain). Some clips allow more freedom of motion than others. I fixed my problem by keeping my knees warm, and changing the location of the U-lock.

After a year and a half (10,000 km) I discovered that I can run on my toes, without putting my heel down, which I couldn't before. My calves had become stronger. People whose only exercise is walking (or cycling with the pedal under their arch instead of under the forefoot) may not have strong calves.

  With cleats power is decreased dramatically. It's became much harder for me to stick with fast riding group.

With cleats you can push in a circle, instead of just pushing up and down. For example when each pedal is at 12 o'clock, you can push it forwards.

Also I agree with using a lower gear and a higher cadence. If another cyclist overtakes me on my commute, I found that it's because I'm in too high gear: changing down one gear so that I can spin more quickly helps me keep up with them, i.e. it lets me deliver more power.


Please suggest a Hitch Bike Rack Theft Protection Solution

As suggested in the comments, removing the rack is by far the most secure option.
The hitch rack pin can be replaced with a locking pin. Alternately if the end of the hitch is accessible and sticks out past the end of the hitch socket, a padlock can be installed.
A chain from the rack to a fitting on the car that prevents it from being removed is possible. This may require having a suitible securing point mounted on the car.
All these help protect the rack, but a determined thief will defeat them all. My hitch is bolted to the car with just 6 bolts. 10 minutes with the right size socket and/or spanner will easily have the whole thing off the car and on its way to a new home.


Swapping parts from old bike to new frameset

Breaking it down:

Wheels, yes, if they are rim brake wheels onto a rim brake frame
Rear derailleur, yes
Chain, yes
Cranks, yes
Front derailleur, yes if yours is a braze-on type, otherwise new one needed
Brake calipers, yes (looking at the frame brake mounts here)
Shifters, yes
Saddle, yes

All of these parts have pretty standardised interfaces with the bike, which would explain why you haven't found much information.

Rim brake wheels have a 130mm spacing at the rear, while disc brake wheels are wider in the frame, or newer ones have thru-axles etc which are different again. If both frames are rim brakes then all is well.

You've correctly identified that bottom bracket, seat post and headset are most likely not compatible, as these components are a bridge between the specifics of the frame and the parts which get attached to it. The 2014 Venge has a narrow OSBB bottom bracket, an aero profile seat post and headset with 1-1/8" upper and 1-3/8" lower bearings.

You may need new handlebars and stem if these are not included with the Venge frameset, depending on the compatibility of your current set, or if you want a more integrated, aero style set to compliment the Venge frame. See our headset explainer if applicable.


Is there a cheap touring bike that is as light as a road bike

There was a trend of these bikes about 8 years ago. They weren't called touring bikes, but Century or Relaxed Geometry. This is a typical example:

Trek Pilot - http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21

However, they seemed to all disappear from the big manufacturers a couple years ago.
Plenty of small brands still in this market. I'd look into Salsa for examples.

If you've got the cash to spend, this is the bike I would recommend. Volagi Luscio.

http://www.volagi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Cyclist-Magazine-2014-Liscio-Review.pdf

I've test ridden one and they are exactly what you are looking for. I think any bike
in this niche today is likely to have disk brakes, rather than the long reach brakes
on the Pilot. So I'd start looking at various road bikes with disk brakes and see if
you can find the geometry you are looking for.

If you can find an old Trek Pilot or Specialized Sequoia, those would be relatively good
frames to start from. With the right components, you could easily get around 10 kgs bike
weight.

You wouldn't want to carry 90lbs of touring gear on these bikes, but a moderate load would be just fine.


Can I convert my velocity 9-speed rear road hub to bolt-on?

You could get locking skewers (e.g. pitlock) or skewers which have hex bolts (e.g. this) [obviously, having a hex key or a 15 mm wrench isn't really secure, but pitlock is more secure], if you want it for the security. But all you need to do is run down to your bike shop with your wheel+skewer and get them to match it to an appropriate solid axle in most cases if you really want a solid axle (since you didn't specify exactly which hub you have, we can't really give more details).


What headset/radio products exist for bike-to-bike communication?

Years ago, when my wife and I started riding together, we got a pair of cheap two-way-radios, with headsets that included VOX.  This allowed us to talk even when we weren't riding side-by-side.  And since we weren't trying to talk from a mile away, it didn't matter how cheap the radios were.

Of course, this requires you coordinate with your co-worker, both have radios set up and tuned to the same frequency.


Why participate in an organized century ride when I can ride the route on my own?

Details depend on the ride, but usually organized rides provide things that you'd have to provide yourself. This one appears to provide a lot. This is covered by the catchall term "support", as in a supported ride.

The support that everyone enjoys is the food and drink along the way ("The Best Rest Stops") - scroll down on the page you linked, and you'll see that in this case it's a lot better than just a powerbar and a refill for your bottle. It looks like there's even food, beer, showers, and massages after the ride!

Support generally also includes some kind of assistance in case of breakdowns. Presumably you can fix flats, but say your tire is too damaged, or some component on your bike breaks. At the very least, you can get a ride in a support vehicle - and they might be able to help you get back on the road in some cases too. There's some about the S.A.G. (support and gear) service on their "ride day" page. They can also just give you a ride if a century turns out to be too much for you to handle.

Of course, another part of the appeal of rides like this is the "relatively heavy bike traffic". Some people like riding with plenty of cyclists on the road, and perhaps to hang around with after. And you don't have to worry about getting lost, or being visible to drivers.

So the supported ride will be a very different experience. Think of it as the challenge of riding a century without any details to worry about, and a bit of a party along the way and at the end. If you know you can handle the distance self-supported, don't care about riding with others, and it's more convenient to ride on your own, go for it. But if you go for the supported ride, your money isn't just disappearing into thin air.


Rear stand light on a Cube Nuroad FE not working

It would seem likely there's a problem with the rear light's capacitor. I'm a generator light user and nerd but not a real electronics person, so maybe someone else can answer better, but my understanding is that what you're seeing (everything works but the standlight is dim) indicates a capacitor that's barely functional. You could open the light up and try following standard methods to test and then replace it. Dropping in another fender mounted tail light is also an option, but they each have their own needs for where to drill the holes to get a good angle, so you might give up some of the integrated look of the stock light on that bike.


New to cycling, questions about over doing it

It depends on a lot of things, like how fit you are to start with and how well the bike fits you. The same distance can be a very different amount of effort depending on the surface, incline etc. But as a general rule (and assuming you're in decent health) tired is fine, muscle aches are to be expected, but don't ignore pain especially in your joints. As with any new exercise, do build in some rest days, and expect to build up what you can do.


Rear Tyre torn at rim - what was the cause?

You mentioned that it's your rear wheel and that you tow a heavy load. Rear wheels in these setups get a lot of lateral (sideways) loading from the trailer.

This can put stress on the bead that it's not designed for. A higher pressure would help stop the tire from rolling side to side -- but you've said you're already on the high end of its pressure range. Maybe look for a tire that is known to have stiff or reinforced sidewalls.

I'm going to call herniated sidewalls: a "criggie" from now on.


Can you use a 9 / 10 speed chainring with an 8 speed chain?

Assuming you are talking about chainring (not sprocket), it should be fine. You should only be worry with an 8- or lower-speed chain on a 9- or more speed freehub.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Bicycles/Maintenance_and_Repair/Chains/Chain_sizes


Is it possible to convert a single speed rear wheel into a multi-speed rear wheel?

Conventional wire spoked wheels don't allow this. All types of conventional singlespeed hub (BMX, cassette, freewheel, track, coaster) take advantage of their one-cog-ness to have center-to-flange measurements that are either symmetrical or close to it, creating a wheel with no or almost no spoke tension disparity, which makes it stronger and more robust. (Non-flip-flop track and all disc singlespeed hubs do give some spoke tension disparity, but not much.) Such a hub offers no space to put a gear cluster.
Certain disc (as in flat and expensive) and mag wheelsets are switchable from track to multi-speed hub guts. They're not subject to the above limitations as their structure is closer to only existing in one plane. To do it you're buying the manufacturer's parts and following their procedures. Zipp 900s are a current example, allowing riders to use the same big money disc for both track and TT/tri. Aerospoke also is/was switchable, and were pretty common in their heyday, so probably represent the most popular singlespeed wheelset you can buy and then convert later to derailer use.


You may have overtightened things...you can do this with a quick-release, but easier when you apply a tool to the process. This can cause the alignment to go a bit wonky. This is actually the less likely thing...I mention it first as folks have a tendency to over-tighten things when they take them off and on a time or two and I'm about to ask you to remove the wheel!

My initial guess is that you didn't get the axle seated correctly in the fork. This could be caused by a bit of gravel or dirt or just the angle the bike was leaning. Take off the wheel and make sure everything is clean. While you are there, look for any damage to the end of the fork. If one side is a little twisted, you may have a fork issue but from your narrative you haven't had any crashes so probably not.

Once satisfied all is clean and undamaged, put the wheel on and "jiggle" it to make sure it seats well. Hand tighten the skewer and see if the wheel turns smoothly. You may have already bent your disc from earlier, so keep that in mind...if you are mechanically inclined and your disc is bent, you can straighten with a crescent wrench tightened so it just slides over the disc.

Tighten the skewer a bit more, make sure all is good, then tighten down...ideally with a torque wrench but realistically a "firm without cranking it down" tighten.

If it still gives you trouble, stop by your LBS and ask them to help you troubleshoot it. Many will give you a hand for free (or a couple bucks). Bigger stores less so.

Happy Riding.


Do I need to patch my tubed-tire if I have a puncture?

I think thats small enough that I probably wouldn't worry about it too much, but you can fill it in with a dab of super glue or sealants for rubber (like shoe goo) for peace of mind.

You could boot it (a nice boot is the Park Tool TB-2), but I think this is likely too much work.


if my height is 5'9" what mtb should I buy?

This is impossible to determine via the internet - the fit of a bike depends on inseam, arm length, and a multitude of other physical measurements as well as personal preference and the type of bike (there are large variations in types of mountain bikes even) and riding style.

Read this article and this article for more details on what goes into bike fitting. Note that its really more of an art than a science.

Go to your local bike shop and ask for a bike fit and try out lots of bikes in realistic riding conditions and find one that works for you.


I want to ride a bike, but its dangerous for me to have weight on my arms

I don't have the rep here yet to upvote or +1 a comment re: @jqning 's answer so instead; I offer this "I second what he said about Townie."
I suggest Townie (w/ admitted/disclosed bias) because it is what I ride. I don't have a bad shoulder but I do have 1 artificial knee, 1 artificial ankle and nerve-damage in my right hand; all of which limit mobility. The model I chose is a 2011 18-spd 2200d electra. It suits my physical handicaps more-than adequately; being a "bike-person" few of my materiel possessions out-rank it. it would be almost impossible to replace; if I had to I'd go with their current model; which would not be optimal for me...but for someone with shoulder problems -- it would.

the problem with your current bike is the stance. you're pitched too far above and in-front-of the bike's center of gravity.

for your shoulder, you want to be hanging-back...behind it--like on a cruiser-style frame--- where the handles are elongated and reach back (even downward a bit) to get to your hands. **This needs to be done comfortably, safely and most of all, the bike still needs exceptional vel. & accel. (because it's a commuter) and primarily, **it needs to be fun to ride.****

check out their specs .... test drive an Electra -- the current models comes in 7speed (1 up front, the 1st gear in back is extra-extra low-low). try similarly-designed-bikes too. if I could list other brands/models I would...well Schwinn and the brand you have now likely produce a similar style - many of the larger brands have knock-offs; some =ly good; some (possibly) better; depends on your budget. This style can easily (prob. w/o a custom/after-mkt handlebar, seat, etc) be adjusted to lower your center of gravity so when ur ON the bike, it takes all (an extremely significant amount of...)the pressure off your shoulders and redirects/displaces it to parts your body that can bear it.

bottom line - in your question you said "...I want to give up riding." even though I take this a bit out-of-context...there it is; in the lead of your question - if you really did? you would not be on SE asking other OCD socio-paths what to do.

The bike is the problem - scrap it:

try a bunch of new bikes
new designs
new brands

Change "I want to give up" to "I should change bikes- don't give up."

Hope I don't sound like an advert-- the company no longer manufactures the 2200d - which to me, is a neg on their business strategy. in all fairness this statement should bring some objectivity back into my inherently biased answer.

If you LIKE riding; please don't quit. it beats walking, it's healthier and safer on your bones & joints than jogging and is comparatively FREE as opposed to a combustion engine, electric or hybrid ANYTHING. ALSO; the energy spent makes YOU healthier, as opposed to the spent energy of other vehicles; which mainly damage pocketbooks, the economy and the air.

Stay up, Tapper


Ebike going up a hill controller and motor gets hot causing a circuit break

As one commenter suggested, the issue is likely not that the voltage is incorrect, as a 36V battery means 10 typical Li-Ion cells in series, which will have a fully charged voltage of 42V.
It is possible that your battery pack had a BMS or some kind of current limiter or fuse system that prevented too much current from being drawn, or that some of the motor controller settings, such as current limiting were changed.
It is also possible that when you modified the battery pack you used a different type of 18650 cell that those originally present in the pack, or used a different type of conductor to add those cells to the pack, which has a different amount of resistance.
To debug I would first suggest using a current and voltage meter to measure the power output and current draw to ensure that your usage is below 350W, and then possibly adjusting the settings on your motor controller.


Is it normal that front wheel bends when front disk brakes are applied?

No, not normal at all. You should have a bike shop look at it for a safety check if you are new to the sport and bike.
One thing that can cause a wheel to bend is poor spoke tension. A good bike shop should be able to fix that for you pretty quickly.


What is energy output in Strava application?

From Strava's Help page :

  Energy Output

  Energy Output measures the amount of work you've done during a ride,
  expressed in kilojoules (KJ). It is a factor of how much you're
  pedaling, how fast you're pedaling and how much force you're exerting
  on the pedals (measured in W). Power output is most accurately taken
  from a power meter, but if you don't have a power meter we give a
  rough approximation through our power estimator.

This means how much energy was delivered to make the wheels turn. As Daniel R Hicks mentioned, calories in that case mean how much "food" energy your body burned, which will always be higher than the energy you give to the wheels.


You would need a crank puller. On the left crank remove the bolt, then the crank puller screws in to the threaded part of the crank (black part of crank puller in picture below). You tighten the center part of the crank puller and it slowly pulls the crank from the spindle.

The same goes for the right crank, from the picture you've posted you first have to remove the cap using a wide screwdriver or thin coin.

You can find crank pullers on ebay quite cheaply or go to your local bike shop.


Upgrading From a 9 Speed Sora Derailleur?

As a sort of addendum to Nathan Knutson's answer, focusing on things to do before replacing the derailleur.

Make sure wheel is fully in the dropouts and parallel to the frame.
Properly and clean the drivetrain with a degreaser and apply a bike chain specific lubricant, not penetrating oil such as WD-40, GT85 etc. There are many videos that show how to do this.
Check hanger alignment. From the photo it looks pretty good (cage should be parallel to the chainrings). It might be worth getting a bike store to check it with a hanger realignment tool.
Replace cables and housings. Stretchy cables and sticky housings can cause the derailleur to not index properly.
Run through a systematic derailleur adjustment process.
Check chain and cassette wear.


FSA Tempo crankset is not compatible with FSA Vero

First, just that both say "FSA Road" doesn't mean that they are compatible.
The answer is to look up the documentation for the crankset. It's the first Google hit if you search with the name and then look for bottom bracket. It says 118mm (which is unusually long) and JIS. You need a bottom bracket with axle like this.
Edit: Looking at the bottom photo, it looks like the crank has originally been designed to be used to be used with triple chainrings and has been converted to supercompact double by just leaving out the largest ring. 118mm spindle is in the normal range for triples.


What caused diagonal cuts in the sidewalls of my tire?

Yes, you are right that the tire must be replaced.

No, the tires are not defective. This type of cross hatching is caused by age and weather deterioration. It appears like diagonal cuts because the weave of the cloth start breaking threads, and they are woven diagonally.

The tire is either at least 3-5 years old, or has been stored in a climate which speeds dry rotting. In this case the tire appears much older than that.

It is generally seen most obviously on tires which have tan side walls, as this one does. The tires with black side walls do the same thing, but it isn't as visible or as quick to happen.

A tire has a shelf life of 3-4 years, even if not ridden. I realize you said that you'd replaced them about a year ago. That could be climate affecting tire life, or it could be that they were old stock on the LBS shelf for some time before you bought them.  If you see crosshatching, or your tire feels papery and dry, rather than like rubber on the side wall, replace them. A blowout at speed is a dangerous thing, and a year of use is an acceptable lifetime.

FTR, this tire is either a Panaracer Pasela, or Pasela TG. In it's narrowest form, a 700x23c they recommend a 100psi maximum. If this is as it appears, a 26 x 1.25 or 1.5, that pressure recommendation drops to 60 psi. Could possibly be a 700x38c which would be a max pressure of 90 psi.


What size cone wrench am I likely to need for a Trek 1.5 2011 Compact rear hub?

I had a 2008 version of the 1.5 bike and the rear wheel took a 15mm cone wrench.

It's possible that Trek changed this, but I think 15mm is a good bet.

I agree with @alex; anything other than 13, 15, or 17 would be considered uncommon.


I've had good luck (with cantilever brakes) with Velo Orange's Squeal-Free Brake pads, but many people say that the Salmon compound brake pads from Kool Stop are the best choice for wet conditions.  The dual-compound Kool Stops are a good idea, since supposedly they work well in all conditions...

My LBS stocks brands, but Kool Stop is a much more usual brand of brake pad to carry.

In general: any brake pads that say they're made for wet conditions.


What advise for using spacers on MTB rear forkend

Sheldon Brown has a good page on frame adjustment - I especially refer you to his instructions on aluminum (and carbon) frames - DON'T

As long as you can get the nuts on far enough that axle thread is visible, you will be OK, however, at 13mm for the frame, washer and nut, I will be surprised. You might be tempted to use a smaller spacer and compress the frame. I have no idea how much would be consider too much - 1, 2 5mm? I would have a guess 1 or 2 is fine, but 5 might be pushing it.

You should be able to get the chain line correct by changing spacers, however it might also mean redishing the wheel.

How do you plan to adjust the chain tension. Are the dropouts on the frame horizontal?


Sheldon Brown was a good man, a good cyclist, and he spent an inordinate amount of time writing answers for everybody to questions that every new cyclist has.

In a lot of ways, his answers were pretty dead on. However, like any person with the energy and commitment that Mr. Brown showed with his site, he was very opinionated on a number of issues which are controversial now.

Because he was also among the first cyclists to use the internet to spread his ideas and knowledge to anyone willing to listen, his ideas are often treated as canonical, even when time and science have moved on.

As with any science, new ideas and equipment overtake the old, and new methodologies, for fitting, for bike construction, and for fitness are tested, and either adopted or discarded.

There are cyclists who adhere to what Mr. Brown said on any topic, regardless of the evidence to the contrary which is available now. But then, there are dogmatics in any religion, and cycling is a religion for many.  And if cycling was a religion, then Mr. Brown was its first, or at least best known, Internet age missionary.

He deserves respect for his efforts, but not dogmatic adherence to his viewpoints.

Try his ideas and use what works.  If something doesn't work for you, discard it, and find something that does.  He would be the first to tell you to think for yourself.


Is there a non-proprietary standard for oval seat-tube/post?

There has been in the past--Shimano once had aero group variants (Dura Ace AX and 600 AX), which included an aero-section seatpost. I had a bike that came with one such seatpost. Unfortunately the binder clamp on the seat tube didn't quite keep the seatpost in place, and I had to have a framebuilder tap a hole for a setscrew.


Replacement bottom bracket for Shimano XT FC-M785 crankset

TL;DNR - I recently had exactly the same problem with my 3x10 XT MTB and handed the job to the LBS.

You need to be aware the great thing about standards is when you can't find one that suits you make a a new one. The Cycle industry took this to new extremes since the early 2000's with regards to Bottom Brackets. The BB matches the crank set to the frame, so you half of the equation knowing the crank set. The manufacturer and all my normal goto references for bike specs are silent on the BB standard of the frame.

If the BB is press fit, its probably BB30. Have a look on the lower seat tube - some manufacturers helpfully print use information on BB.

If press fit, this is one job that might be better left to your LBS - you probably won't have the correct tools to do it yourself, correct tools are expensive and DIY cobbled together tools can easily stuff a frame. With the correct tools the LBS has, it is a 30 minute job, and that 30 minutes comes with years of experience.


Can I put a hanger derailleur on a direct mount frame?

Usually it's fixable either via helical insert (Helicoil) or a threaded sleeve called a dropout saver.

Dropout Saver

Helical Insert

The Helicoil approach gives a neater result. It requires either having an expensive tool (an M10x1 Helicoil kit) or paying a shop to do it.

Dropout Savers are somewhat quick and dirty. They have the very trivial disadvantage that because they're essentially a nut for the derailer bolt, you may need another wrench to install or remove the derailer. But they work fine and are the cheap solution to this problem, especially if you want to fix it at home. They come in different widths.


Is there a benefit of lacing trailer wheel spokes radially instead of crossed?

Crossed spoke lacing is primarily necessary to transmit torque from the hub to the rim, rather than for increased strength, although I suspect hub flanges have more strength when loaded by a crossed spoke. Given a trailer wheel will carry a lower load than a bicycle wheel this does not matter.


I broke my rear axle, apparently it's an old style. Is it easily replaceable?

I have replaced probably three or four axles like yours in the last few months. It is fairly easy; the only special tools that you need are usually cone wrenches (very skinny wrenches to hold the cone-nuts in your hub). The axles are cheap (maybe 10 bucks or so online). You will also need a regular 17 or 16mm box wrench.

Is your axle a quick release (it is hollow inside) or solid? If it is solid, the length does not matter really, as long as it is longer than your old one. If it is quick release, then you have to get it within one mm or so so that the quick release skewer still holds properly. The thread pitch also matters, and is somewhat harder to determine on your own.

I would think that any decent bike shop would be able to tell you exactly what you need. You can order a cone wrench and new axle for probably ~$15 online and do the repairs yourself, and have the original wheel still on your bike.

I'll look around for instructions on how to change out an axle. BTW, this is pretty common for hubs that take freewheels.


Hybrid e bike suspension or no suspension

I would definitely not consider suspension on a hybrid bike for 2 reasons.

A suspension fork typically has very little to offer on the type of terrain you would ride a hybrid on.  A high quality high volume tyre (ideally tubeless) with a supple casing will do a great job smoothing the ride.
At the price point of most hybrid style bikes suspension forks are typically heavy with poor small bump sensitivity and poor adjustment options.

Rather than a suspension fork (or not) i'd be far more concerned about other features like tyre clearance, tubeless compatible rims and in the case of an e bike battery capacity.


Need some help identifying my new project

This is a bad answer and is only here to share progress so far, and hopefully inspire an answer from someone else.

First up  "cicle" is Catalan for "cycle"  so that definitely points at a European basis.  We don't know if that sticker is from the manufacturer or a retailer that sold the bike, but the easternmost part of Spain is where Catalan is spoken.

By combining the three images of the logo, I get this composite:

Which doesn't look like anything. Googling shows no ligatures that are a combination of C and Z, but does hint that https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%87 may fit.

The V is too wide and the H is too narrow and character 6 isn't anything recognisable - Russian has a backward R (Яя) but its capitalised not lowercase.

Go back to Catalan though, and there are "dz" and   "dʒ" as consonants , from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalan_language#Phonology

Catalan-based bicycle companies include Orbea, and Rasaba Cycles.

Your idea of Losa is certainly possible.  Here's an image of the fork crown, inside fork leg, and head tube of a known Losa frame.  From http://go-mamil.bike/losa-background

Similar but different, and the fork doesn't have the "chevrons" on the inside, which are V for Vanni according to that link above.

Vanni Losa was an artisan framebuilder who built many frames for other brands - so anything's possible.

A frame number of 52 on the BB definitely implies a low-throughput framebuilder - German Tank theory suggests a total output of ~104 bikes.


Single speed to multi-speed conversion with internal gear hub

Are they a gimmick, work "meh", or extremely functional? Any experience with them?

I ride internal gear hubs (IGH) only, because they are extremely functional. I definitely prefer them over any deraileur system.
Why? Because IGHs have much better shifting than chain-shifts:
Ever stopped at the lights with your chain-shift in the wrong gear? Well, duh, you'll have to accelerate with the wrong gear in place. Not so with IGHs: You select the new gear, move your pedals back and forth once (only the pedals, not the bike!), it says "click", and you are ready to rock.
Ever found you needed to shift a gear lower on a steep ascend, and didn't have much speed to spare for the shifting? With an IGH, you select the lower gear, you release the pressure from the pedals for a split second (and I really mean "split", like a quarter second, or so), it says "click", and you are in the correct gear again. No need to reduce force until the chain has fully moved to the correct sprocket.
On a similar note, when you shift up during acceleration, IGHs virtually eliminate the shifting breaks in power output. It feels like driving a tip-tronic car over a manual shift car. Once you are used to the "click-click" shifting performance, you won't want to go back to deraileurs.

The downsides of IGHs compared to chain-shifts are:

They are a tad less efficient. That's why racers never use IGHs, they need the last percent of performance. However, that's definitely not an argument for commuting and touring.

The spread of gears is a bit more limited. IGHs usually span a factor of approximately 3 between lowest and highest gears, chain-shifts for mountain bikes have a much higher range. I.e. on steep slopes you may find that you are missing a gear or two with an IGH. But it's still much better than having only one gear, isn't it?

Update:
After getting some experience with a Rohloff Speedhub, I feel that I must mention that it deviates from my description above in some points:

Shifting is not deferred, it takes exactly as long as you need to turn the controlling grip into the new position. This also works under some load, but the more pressure you have on your pedals, the harder it becomes to turn the grip.

Efficiency is significantly higher than with cheaper IGHs I've ridden.

Gear spread is significantly wider. Most other IGHs max out at roughly 300% spread, the Rohloff gives 500% spread.

There are other top category products that I have not tested, and which also deviate significantly. Most importantly the NuVinci which does not even have gears, it can produce any transmission factor over its entire range. I imagine that this can be a very sweet feature, and I did consider it for my investment. In the end, I decided that a high gear spread was more important to me than continuous shifting.
Of course, the Rohloff is the most expensive product in the market, so you must decide for yourself whether the above is worth the investment of a little more than thousand Euros. Cheap second hand IGHs may be obtained for 25 Euros, and they are already a very good choice. So, if you are on a tight budget, take something like the SRAM 7-Speed, and be happy with it. You should only consider the top products if the money is not really the issue. But if you decide to invest the extra money, I have found that it was indeed worth it. In my case, I mostly enjoy the higher efficiency and the small increment between the gears.


What's the proper science-driven way to treat mild scrapes/abrasions (that have a bit of dirt in them) from a mountain biking crash?

Briefly, a quick rinse with clean water, and possibly dressing it, are probably all you need to do on the trail. This assumes a day visit to a typical trail centre or cross country riding near to facilities in a country with a reasonably accessible healthcare system, i.e. most mountain-biking. This was also confirmed by an outdoor first aid course I did recently (these are a very good idea).
You don't know what's in the dirt, so studies discussing antibacterial properties of certain mineral compounds aren't very relevant, even if they're effective against the bacteria that might be an issue, in the wild as opposed to in the lab. As an extreme example, consider coming off into fresh dung on a rock - slippery, unhealthy, but still capable of causing a graze.
Alcohol wipes are now deprecated for wound cleaning; first aid kits now include sterile saline wipes instead, but apart from using a folded corner to flick particles of dirt away, they're not very effective.
Rinsing with your water bottle is about as good as you'll get for cleaning while on the trail. This is a good reason to have plain water in (one of) your bottle(s) - most other drinks would not be such a good idea (similarly, washing muck out of important bike parts). Getting enough flow from a Camelbak isn't so easy, and you need to have plenty of water with you to do this. Some ride leaders I know carry a spare bottle that they don't drink from, for this, dehydrated novices etc., but in general the wounded person's own bottle should be first choice.
Once the wound is fairly clean it may be a good idea to dress it to keep it that way, but on something like a knee that flexes a lot while riding, this can be more trouble than it's worth, though if you're bleeding probably it's a good idea to cover the wound. Large stretch fabric sticking plasters (band aids) are ideal, though in my riding first aid kit I have a selection of these and bigger dressings. I carry more than most people as I'm used to leading kayaking and road riding. A more thorough clean might be needed when you can, e.g. a shower, or several bottles of water when there's a tap.
After a recent tumble leading to unsightly grazes on my knee and elbow (and that first aid course) my preferred dressing for wounds on moving parts is now the sort with a sterile pad and built in conforming bandage - it doesn't rely on adhesion so is more sweat-proof, and flexes well, while looking rather like a cartoon bandage.  Zinc oxide tape is a also good for holding down dressing, if you use plenty.
Keeping your vaccinations up to date (tetanus being the most relevant) is an important general rule, regardless of what you do at the time of the injury.


Can I somehow attach a bashguard on top of largest chainring?

A lot of 104 BCD bashrings of the type that don't have cutouts for the crank arm would interfere with the crank arm by the time you spaced it out enough to go "on top" of the ring on a 1x crank. There's also the question of the spacers increasing the leverage that the spider tabs end up receiving, etc.

If your crank has the ability to mount the ring on the other side of the tabs, you might try putting it there and measuring the chainline to see how bad it really is. Cranks where the stock chainline isn't actually perfect as a hedge against frame clearance issues is sadly common anyway, so it might be fine, and if it's borderline than it's probably only your smallest cog where it really matters anyway, which might be another thing to weigh. Crank-mounted bashguards do have a long history of encouraging people to ride crossgears; it's essentially what you're signing up for when you put one on a 2x.

Frame (ISCG) mounted ones have become way more popular. There's a certain logic to that in how once you're hitting stuff that's too much for the inherent strength of a steel chain on a 1x ring, maybe you don't want it hitting your cranks at all, and certainly not via extra long spaced-out chainring bolts.


As noted in this old question there exist Presta tubes from which the valve core can be removed; in this case it might be possible to replace the valve core.

However, yours appears to be a single piece valve (non-removable core).

Since the valve is otherwise trash, I would try gently bending it straight using a pair of pliers.  If it breaks, or doesn't straighten you're no worse off, since you'll have to discard it anyway.


What is the purpose of an insert pin for Magura brake hoses?

I assume by 'pin' you mean the following part:

This part is called the 'insert' or 'connecting insert' and its purpose is to 'support' the (non rigid) brake hose in order to prevent it from crushing/reducing drastically in diameter when the sleeve nut is tightened causing the olive to be compressed onto the brake hose.

In other words: When tightening the sleeve nut the olive will be compressed and its inner diameter will decrease slightly (eventually causing the olive to seal against the outside of the brake hose). The insert serves the purpose of supporting the brake hose in order to get a better seal (more pressure in between olive and brake hose which in turn results in the olive/outer surface of brake hose to get a better seal relative to each other).

Brake hose inserts are not unique to Magura by the way, I believe (almost) all bicycle hydraulic brakes use a similar insert when working with a sleeve nut tightening system. Designs may vary between manufacturers however, so use the type specified by the manufacturer of your brake.

I would highly recommend istalling the insert to be sure that you get the best seal possible/your brake won't leak. Sometimes you can reuse the insert (if you manage to get it out of the brake hose), you can burn/melt the brake hose away if it's really difficult to get off in other ways, a new olive would definitely be recommended over re-using an old one to prevent possible leaking of brake fluid.

A similar insert is used for plastic central heating pipes in order to prevent them from 'collapsing' when press-fitting the fittings onto the pipe.

This video shows you how to install the insert/'pin' :

( watch from 2:39 )


7 and 8 speed cassettes have the same spacing, so you can use either in your situation.

As for indexing on the rear, usually there is no indexing, though I've seen 'semi-indexing', where they do have an index mechanism, but it still requires several clicks to switch chainrings.

Additionally, you sometimes need to adjust a little bit based on what gear you have selected in the rear. Spacing between chainrings can vary somewhat on different cranksets, it's not as rigidly specified as it is for the rear.

The 3x7 shifters your LBS should work just fine.


Can I measure my bottom bracket size without removing the cranks?

As, if not more important than length, is the chain line.  Obviously related, but enough variation to cause problems, as I found out not when I got into my own bike maintenance. Sheldon (as always) shows a way to measure chain line here. The same page has  table of various Bottom brackets and the length and chain-line measurements.

Essentially you measure from the center of the chain rings (triple is easy, double measure half way between the rings) to the center of the seat tube to get your chain line. Then you should be able to match up a BB that will suit.


Does (square-taper) BB spindle length affect Q factor?

Yes, spindle length is a factor in determining the Q factor.

A longer spindle moves the cranks further out while a shorter one moves the cranks further in. The type of crankset will also affect the Q factor, as some will sit further out than others even with the same spindle length (I've seen cranks which on the same bottom bracket can have more than 1 cm difference in Q factor).

Whether or not you can get the chainline and Q factor you want is a different matter (and dependent on your setup).


Can I use "normal" shoes/trainers with clipless pedals?

Yes, you can use them with normal shoes, but as you predict, it isn't very comfortable, especially if your shoes have thin, flexible soles. Also, there's a risk of your foot slipping off, particularly in the wet.

There are various options to temporarily convert clip pedals into ordinary flat ones.

Fly pedals
BBB BPD FeetRest pedal adaptors (SPD only)


Road RDs of this era only came in short (SS) and medium (GS) cage. You presumably have the GS now, which generally is what goes along with a triple.

If it's RD-5500 or RD-5501, regardless of cage length, its specified max large cog is 27t. Sometimes by either maxing out the B-tension screw or swapping in a longer one (M4x0.7) you can coax them to go somewhat larger. 28 usually isn't a problem. 30 might be. It depends on the exact shape of the dropout. If it doesn't work, the penalty is the large cog grinding to a greater or lesser degree against the the pulley when in the lowest gear.

Usually there's no way of telling for sure how well it will work until you put it all together and try it.

The other issue is that depending on what's up front you'll probably be exceeding the total capacity, which basically means you'll have to live with slack in the small/small combinations once you've put a chain on that's long enough to safely accommodate the new large/large combination. This entails some risk of sudden derailment and all accompanying dangers to life and equipment if you accidentally shift into the slack combinations.


Increase teeth on cassette from 11-32t to 11-34t 9 speed

One of the functions of a rear dérailleur is to take up the chain slack when the rider changes to the smaller gears.  The length of the derailleur limits how much slack it can take up, which puts a restriction on how big a gear can be on the rear cassette.  This review says that 32 teeth is as large a gear as a Sora rear derailleur can handle, but it's possible that things were different the year Shimano made your derailleur.

It might be possible for you to change your small chainring (in front) for a smaller one, but there are similar restrictions with the front derailleur: too small of a chainring will cause the chain to rub on the front derailleur cage.  Your LBS should be able to help you determine if you can change gear sizes, and can order the parts for you also.

I suspect that it won't be inexpensive or easy to put an easier gear ratio on your bike, and that the guy at the bike shop is right: training is the way to go.  Personally, I had lots of trouble with hills after I moved to a hilly area, but I decided to embrace the challenge and take them on, and I'm glad that I did; I'm much stronger now, and I have a lot more fun cycling.  Your mileage may vary of course.  Good luck!


Here's a photo of RD-M970 from behind. As you can see, the slotted (guide) pulley goes to knuckle and solid one (tension) to the bottom of cage. I'd align the arrows with chain movement direction that happens when you pedal forward.


Will this crankset be a good replacement

The BCD is irrelevant cos you're changing the whole thing.  BCD only matters when you're fitting replacement chainrings in the future.

The only measurements that matter are BB interface (square taper, OK),  crank length (165mm - is this suitable), and chainline (which is set more by the BB axle than the crankset)

Since you're replacing a triple with another triple, should fit fine.

However the new one is 42/32/22T  and the old one is 48/38/28T so you'll probably have to remove 6 links from your chain (6 half links, or 3 wide and 3 narrow links, or 3 complete links, depending on how you want to count them.)

Also your front derailleur mech will probably need to slide down a bit, which means adjusting your front derailleur cable.  May as well fit a new one while you're doing this - inners are cheap.

DO NOTE that this will make your gearing lower by ~10% so the top-speedy hard gears won't be there, and you'll have a bit more at the low end for going up steep hills slowly.  Do you run out of gears at either end currently?


Sidewall cut on brand new tyre - permanent fix possible?

No, a tyre boot will absolutely not be enough. Some side cuts are repairable by stitching. However, it is better for MTB tyres that use smaller pressures. I do not know if it is likely to work on a road tyre.


Any detriment to hanging a bike by its front wheel?

You'd have to calulate the actual forces to be 100% sure but it's not going to be a problem: forces on front wheel/fork/headset while e.g. just sitting on the bike, braking or landing jumps will be (much) higher than the force applied from hanging it.

That being said, I do note at least two problems with this setup: first, good luck getting one of the center bikes out without touching or getting stuck in another bike. Second: from the picture it seems like you'd have to hold the bike with one hand then use the other to attach it. Ok for a roadbike, but for anything heavier that is just hard. Usually these systems have an open 'C'-shaped fixed hook into which you simply hang the bike which is much more convenient.


There are two main reasons:

Hills: Pushing a light bike up a hill is obviously easier than a heavier bike.  Everyone likes to brag about that HC climb he did the other day.  Without resorting to lying about actually climbing the hill, the easiest way for a cyclist to make his life easier is to carry less mass up the hill.  Nobody will say, "That didn't count because you rode a 3kg bike," and you get no extra points for lugging a 40 kg dutch commuter bike to the summit.
Technical Competence: Bicycle manufacturer have tried over the years to reduce bicycle weight, to the extent that weight (or lightness) has become a proxy measurement of the manufacturer's technical competence.  Anyone can build a heavy bike, but it takes real engineering skill to build one that is light.


How do different frame materials affect the handling of a bike?

There is a plethora of alloy and carbon bikes which contradict a lot of the above.
Certainly with early alloy framed bikes a lot of what has been written above was true - fat tubes, straight gauge, non-profiled. This is where alloy got its harsh ride reputation from. And cheap alloy frames probably still bear this unfortunate hallmark and reputation.

If you look at the other end of the spectrum with the likes of Canyon's Ultimate SLX AL or Cannondale's CAAD12 - you will see careful design can produce a frame which is both compliant and light. The Canyon frame weighs in from 1kg - lighter than a lot of carbon frames. It has a stiff bottom bracket and the over-sized head tube ensures handling is tight. The stays are pencil thin for compliance - and I can confirm it rides great. I would have no hesitation riding it on distance rides.

On the other hand - if you look at a Cervelo S5 aero bike - that has one of the firmest rides I have ever experienced. Harsher than an old Scott Foil. And these bikes are carbon. Supposedly "Soft, You can feel the Flexing".

Then you look at the Genesis Volare in Reynolds 953 steel. You'd instantly think sublime ride - but the frame had to be revised because it was too harsh. And this coming from feedback from the race team.

My point being - material choice alone - does not dictate handling of a bike.


Yes, it is time to change that tire!

Your current front tire looks to be in very good shape so when you purchase a new tire you should put it on the front wheel and then move the old front tire onto the rear wheel.

Continental road tires have helpful wear indicator dots on them that will show you when the tread of the tire has reached its recommended replacement point:

There will be two of these indicators on the tire, one on each side of the tire's center line. Note, they are not always quite this close together. Many other brands will also have such some type of indicator marks on them, especially road tires and other tires with no to light thread patterns.

For other tires there are some general rules you can follow on when to replace a tire:

You start experiencing a sudden increase in the number of flats received in a tire and there are not good explanations for the flats.
The tire has worn down to the point the casing has started showing through the tire.
On bikes where your tires have noticeable tread pattern (mountain bike, cyclocross tires etc.) and the tread pattern has worn down.
You have a long, wide flat spot along the centerline of the tire, such as in your photo. At this point you may also notice your speed has dropped of slightly and that cornering may have gotten a little squirrelly.
The tire has cracked rubber, either due to the age of the tire or mistreatment such as improper storage or consistently riding on the tire while it was under inflated.

Some people will try to give out general milage estimates of how long a tire should last but these tend to be pretty useless as your tire's longevity depends on the type of tire, your riding style, your riding conditions etc.

It is typical for rear tires to wear more quickly then the front tire. I have always attributed this mainly to the fact all your starting force is applied to the rear wheel hence any wear due to friction while starting and accelerating is experience on the rear tire.

This answer to the question 'why does my back tyre wear so much more quickly than the front?' also postulates increased deformation of the turning rear tire  results in more wear due to the sliding of the tire that occurs during the deformation process.


Is China dumping cheap spokes on America market?

The short answer is, "Find a dealer you trust."

Whether what he told you is right or wrong, you clearly believe he is having you on.

That will not result in a good relationship, no matter whether he is scamming you, or not.

Most likely, he is either poorly educated on the cause of the spokes breaking, and is having difficulty explaining something to you in an effective manner, and is therefore making stuff up, or he is having you on.

Either way, move on.


Used wheels - corrosion or dried rim tape adhesive?

Thats just the adhesive from the old rim tape.

Get a cloth and some rubbing alcohol and rub away, and it should look brand new.


What will be the time to close a gap to catch a breakaway?

how much time is required to close a gap of 100 metres, in a cycling race, for different differences in speed of leading and chasing group

For a speed difference of 1 metre per second, the time is 100 seconds.

For a speed difference of 2 metres per second, the time is 50 seconds.

For a speed difference of 0.5 metres per second, the time is 200 seconds.

Generally, for a speed difference of "x" metres per second, the time is "100 divided by x" seconds.

  i need a tool to do the math on the fly. so that if one knows what speed the chasing group, one should be able to decide the speed to keep gap constant

To keep the gap constant, the lead group must maintain exactly the same speed as the chasing group.


Front derailleur twist shifter replacement - from small to big ring in one click

My first thought is that the new shifter isn't compatible with the chainring spacing, but unless this group has a super-narrow profile I can't think of one that would be as wide as a typical first-to-third chainring spacing.
In my experience, the markings on twist-type shifters are not always equidistant, and may be due to non-linear throw of the derailleur or non-linear take-up of cable in the shifter. Check that the cable is properly routed through the shifter as well as to the derailleur pinch bolt. I have seen the latter cause this issue.
If you have an alternate derailleur (top swing vs. bottom swing) you can try that if space allows.


Just replaced axle on rear wheel. It is loose at first but as soon as I ride it, it tightens and wheel no longer rotates. Help!

I have sometimes made the mistake of not tightening the locknuts enough, causing the rotation of bearings to drag the cone, tightening it enough for the bearing to bind.
The solution is to properly tighten the locknuts.
I'v been also in the situation of not having the right tools to remove the freewheel, which makes it more difficult.
What I've done to correct the situation is to properly locate the freewheel side cone on the axle, and then tighten it with its spacer and locknut when out of the hub. For this stage the axle and nuts must be free of grease and oil so they are more likely to keep the setting.
With this sub assembly done, put grease on the bearing races and put the balls. Grease is thick enough to hold them temporarily (I do not use the bearing cage in order to fit as many balls as possible. Also, some freewheels have a center hole so small that a cage can not be installed through it.)
Insert the axle from the freewheel side and thread the oposite cone. Adjust the preload and tighten the locknut of that side.
This last step can take a bit of trial and error for the once-in-a-while home mechanic.
My criteria for setting the preload is: Axle does not move side to side if trying to wobble it with my hand. If I try to spin the axle it is doable but won't spin freely (due to grease viscosity). Upon installing the wheel on the bike, it must not move sideways but should spin freely.
The worst case I had was actually a hub that was too worn and had damaged races, so at one point during usage, a ball broke and bind with the cone, dragging and tightening so much that it bent the center tube of the hub. (cheap steel hub).
Bottom line is check hub races, cones and balls for damage. Balls and cones are cheap, if you find surface damage or cracks or any deformation, change them. Some hubs, even some cheap ones have replaceable races. So, if possible and economically feasible, change then when damaged.


Choosing a tool to take off the front cassette

It's hard to tell whether your crank is a classical design or something new and weird.  For the classical design you use a "crank puller".

or

These look sort of like what you show, but you notice the "barrel" is threaded.  You remove the bolt holding the crank on (using a standard "Allen" hex wrench) and then thread in the outer barrel of the puller, into the female threads surrounding the bolt head.  Turning the arm (or using a wrench on the inner part) then "pulls" the crank off.

Some cranks are "self pulling".  You leave in place the dust cover over the bolt, insert an Allen wrench into the hole in the dust cover, then unscrew the bolt against the dust cover.

If your crank is not the "classical" style then you will need whatever specific tools the manufacturer calls for.

Once the crank is off, of course, you may want to remove the "bottom bracket" cartridge.  There are about 6 different wrenches for this, for different styles.

Park Tool has an excellent web site with instructions on how to do all this stuff.


In this interesting video about the history of the Tour de France, at some point the narrator explicitly mentions the period (during the 70s if I remember well) when great cycling events beginned to change from a one-to-one fight amongst a few super-strong riders (typical example: Merckx) to a teamwork fight amongst well-orchestrated, hierarchical teams (typical example: Armstrong).

I think (and the video also mentions it) that this is due, among other things, to an increased understanding - and acceptance - of the importance of aerodynamics (LeMond), and also to advances in scientific training, which leveled the differences between well-prepared riders, I think.

Also, the role of the team in one or another era can be inferred from the very title of another excelent video, "Stars and Watercarriers".


It depends on your budget. If you have $200 to spend that's a very different answer to $1000. Also 'Stanley Park' means nothing to me. Is it a small paved park, a mountain bike park, thousands of acres of rough tracks?
Roughly most people looking for a beginners bike will tend to buy a hybrid like this one:

The main feature of these bikes 'front suspension', which is good for doing hardcore mountain biking, but not that useful on normal bikes, especially as the cheaper ones (say $500 bikes) will always have low quality suspension.
So look for a bike similar to that but without the front suspension

The other features to consider on a bike tend to be:

number of speeds in the rear - more is not really significantly better, but new bikes with 7 speeds or less are badly equipped, simply because that's how bikes are marketed - more speeds is better, so less speeds is bad. So something with 9 speeds or more is generally going to be fairly durable and high quality. 8 speeds is ok too.
freewheel or cassette - a freewheel rear wheel is not switchable to cassette, and freewheels are features of low-quality non-durable bikes nowadays. So check you have a cassette. If your bike is very cheap then maybe this will be the only option
brakes - the cheapest versions of bikes similar to those above may have v-brakes. this is a sign nowadays of a very cheap bike. v-brakes work fine, but probably such bikes will be cheap all over. Most people now go for disc brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes are lower maintenance and most people prefer them. If comparing two bikes one with hydraulic brakes and one with cable brakes, then prefer hydraulic.
fork - if you go for a rigid fork, as you likely should, then a lot of bikes have carbon forks. these have some vibration-absorbing properties. carbon forks can have alloy steers, a full carbon fork is a bit more expensive than one with an alloy steerer.
tyres - typically a bike will be designed around a given tyre size. Road bikes nowadays tend to be around 25-28mm. This can be ridden over smooth off-road and will be very fast on-road, but it's intended for riding on-road mainly, so if you willl cycle most of the time off road then you will want tyres wider than this. MTB tyres, otoh are usually over 2" (don't ask why one is mm, one is ", that is bikes). A 'fast hybrid' will tend to have tyres around 32mm (1.25"), while a slightly more off-road oriented one will be around 40mm (roughly 1.6"). Tyres can be changed after market, but a bike fitted with 32mm tyres may not have clearance for 2" tyres, while one with 40mm tyres will probably be slightly heavier than one with 32mm tyres, and the rims might be too wide to fit a very narrow road tyre too.

The fastest bike is a road bike. The entry-level is Shimano Claris R2000. Any higher series is better, but Claris R2000 is very high quality already. However the road bike will really come into its own when you are covering long distances on open roads. They won't provide any benefit in stop-start traffic or in parks. However you should be aware of them in that they are the best bike for some jobs.
If you buy a used bike then you can probably get more for your money, but if you don't know how to look for worn parts such as bottom brackets, freehubs, etc. then it can be expensive in repair costs. You might check out a store/bike co-operative that sells used bikes that are serviced and ready to ride, as this could be cheaper for you than playing the lottery on ebay.


How to reliably tell if the rim is correctly drilled?

It looks like the holes are quite close to centerline of the rim, but the rim profile has an angle that can be used as reference. So, here are my suggestions:

Use a vernier caliper to measure the distance from eyelet to the angle. Measure both to both sides, and several eyelets.
Arrange lights so that the flat center part is highlighted, like in the photo but so that the highlight covers several eyelets. Take a photo, zoom in and count the pixels to both edges of the highlighted area.

Finally, when you know how the spoke holes are arranged, you can always build the wheel so that the spokes are not crossed over the valve. Just start at the valve and choose the side for first leading spoke so that they match the rim, or choose the side first and spoke hole that matches the side second. Note that spokes from the same side are two holes apart, and you need to have spokes from both sides not cross at the valve.


It sounds like your pump is not on the valve properly, so instead of inflating the tire you're just pressurizing the inside of your pump.

Does your bike have Schrader valves (the kind you see on a car) or Presta valves (skinnier, with a kind of pointy top)?

If it has Presta valves, make sure the top of the valve is unscrewed.  There's a little nut that you can thread up, and you need to do that before you can put air in to the tire.

Also, try wiggling the pump nozzle around on the valve while you push down on the pump handle, you should be able to hear the change as air starts going in to the tire.

Image of a closed Presta valve:

Image of an open Presta valve:

Image of a Schrader valve:


Can you have too many in line barrel adjusters?

I don't think so, as long as you have correct cable housing and ferrules where you need them, there's no problem having multiple barrel adjusters. If you know how to use them then there's no downside to having three in my opinion.

Try it and let us know!


Differences between Biopace and Rotor cranks

If you are looking at the Biopace/Rotor/O-Symmetric relationship as similar due purely to aesthetics, or their similarity due to their lack of similarity to round chainrings then, yes, they are similar products.

But, that said, from the RotoR website "The Q-Rings are elliptical; the Biopace and O.SYMETRIC chainrings are asymmetrical.". And Sheldon Brown points out that Shimano called Biopace "point-symmetric egg curve". Which really only gives them the similarity of being different from the norm which in this case, is a round chainring, but if you go a step further, they are quite different.

So, to try and answer the question posed above.

The first difference between RotoR and Biopace is elliptical vs. asymetrical.
The second is the inherent purpose which, as previously stated, is that the Biopace chainrings placed the maximum tooth size at the dead spot while Q-Rings (RotoR) have the minimum tooth size at the dead spot. RotoR claims this is to increase your ability to get through the inefficient spot of your pedal stroke. Biopace is supposed to speed your way through the power portion (less teeth) and use 'stored' energy to power through the dead spot (more teeth)
Which leads to the third difference which is the adjustable nature of Q-rings (RotoR). Since my dead spot could be different from your dead spot (and would ideally be analyzed with some sort of spin scan) you can adjust where the minimum tooth size sits in relation to the crank arm.

So, to simplify it (perhaps too much) RotoR claims that it is more efficient and better for your knees etc. to minimize the tooth size at the dead spot and maximize the tooth size where you generate the most power and are the most efficient.

Having installed a set and seen the power file from a MTB powertap I can vouch for the fact that it appears to 'smooth' the application of torque while mountain biking. The thought behind this is that by smoothing out your application of torque you will be able to ascend technical climbs ... better. That is one coaches take on the Q-rings and why he sees benefit.

So, that all said. Have a gander at Sheldon Browns take on the issue of Biopace. Essentially, to try and summarize his thoughts, Biopace is striving to achieve the exact things that RotoR is trying just by going about it in what appears to be the completely opposite way.
In fact, he even mentions the application of Biopace to mountain biking and how it evens out the application of power to the cranks.

IMO it is all very confusing. RotoR does trot out some scientific studies and I can attest to a difference in torque application on the mountain bike. In my experience, what is universal with RotoR and O-Symmetric is that the shifting is ABSOLUTELY terrible. Add mud to the mix (MTB) and it goes from terrible to non-existant so whatever perceived benefit there is ... I think you might lose with poor shifting performance.

What is helpful from Sheldon's take is that it seems Biopace failed more due to clumsy marketing and poor communication than it did from being a poor design.

Lastly, I don't think any of them are 'GOOD' or 'BAD'. They are different and might work very well in some applications and poorly in others (Ie. RotoR and mud). But the Biopace choice is pretty much a moot point because ... you can't buy them new anyways.


My answer assumes that you've correctly set the sag of your fork. You need to have 15%, 20% or 25% of sag depending on your riding style and trail types you usually ride. If not, then go ahead and fix that first. You can also remove most of the air from the fork (just leave 5 PSI) and see if it gets full travel (by pressing down statically), just for making sure that it does work. Then reinflate to correct pressure.

  the last 20mm is just unreachable (neither on trail nor by pressing down hard)

It would be very wrong to be able to reach that by pressing down hard. It would also be wrong to use that 20mm on a soft trail ride. That 20mm is there for dealing with the very rough stuff such as jumps or drops to flat, hitting rocks or roots hard etc. That 20mm may save you from falling once or twice and is also there to prevent you from damaging the forks. Note though that bottoming out the fork once per ride is not very bad and will most probably not damage the forks.

Also note that I've also used a talas 32 100/120/140 2009 for 2 years and the last 20mm of travel would only work on drops and hard hits on fast downhill runs.

  Is it an error or a „feature“?

Feature. The air spring is progressive (not linear). Thin 32mm stanchions (which means less volume for the air spring mechanism) usually make this worse.

  Will it get better over time?

No. And if it does then something else must be going on. E.g lost air pressure.

  Is it possible to set it up?

Yes, by removing air from the fork.


Don't know if it helps,... but I use Sora shifters for Alivio rear derailleur (switched bars from straight to drops).

So I would think they are compatible.


Replaceable brake surfaces would add weight and complexity to the rim, plus make them more expensive. If they have been considered in history these factors would probably stop them taking off.

Someone correct me if I’m wrong, but there would likely have been a frame builder and a wheel builder in most major towns historically. Wheels weren’t typically sold as factory built sets, rather you would choose a hub and rim and have your local artisan lace them up. Or do it yourself, bikes would need more regular maintenance and so more people had these skills.

That is almost to say, braking surfaces were replaceable, if the braking surface wore down you would have replaced the rim. Nowadays that’s less common because wheels are cheaper and hubs aren’t considered so serviceable, we’re now likely to wear out both at the same time.

Rims used to be made of steel, something else to factor in.

Bringing it forwards, these carbon wheels (at risk of dissolving) have been the preserve of racing cyclists who care more about results than their wallet, and follow the example of the pro teams who are sponsored.

Disc brakes came along and offer a replaceable braking surface along with other benefits, starting in the off-road world with harsh conditions.

Meanwhile, the demographic of people who honestly can’t afford to replace their rims, either with the same one or a cheaper one, is small and small enough that the market hasn’t included them in the way you suggest. It’s cheaper to offer a thick, heavy, durable rim, than it is to develop a rim with replaceable parts; there isn’t an economic benefit.

Just some rambling thoughts!


32H 2x rear wheel for velodrome - is it ok?

There is no hard and fast rule that matches spoke crossing to spoke count. It's more of a continuum. More spokes and more crossing = More durable wheel. Less spokes and less crossing = lighter wheel (possibly more aero as well).

So you can build up a 32h 2x wheel and get wheel that is not quite as durable as a 3x wheel. You don't see this in production, because the weight savings is minimal and people choosing 32h tend to want a durable wheel.

I've build a couple of 32h 2x wheels for myself just because the spoke length for 2x matched the supply of spokes I already had. They are on my MTB and have had no problems for several years.

Similarly, you could build 3x 28h spoke wheels which would be slightly heavier and slightly more durable, but this isn't done because people choosing 28h have already decided that lighter is better.

IMHO, the quality of the spokes and the build of the wheel is much more important than the difference between 32 3x and 28 2x.


Why are hand-built wheels considered to be better than machine-built wheels?

I think a machine-built wheel can be just as good as a hand-built one, and vice-versa. This is probably an algorithmically solvable problem, so given fair conditions, whether human or machine - following the same rules for truing a wheel and tensioning the spokes - should achieve indistinguishable results.

There are three factors, though, that enter in the game:

There are some "tricks" to improve wheel quality that involve more than just turning the nipples. The most critical one, in my experience, is to properly bend the spokes around the point where they interlace one another, as recommended by Sheldon Brown here (look at the picture with the hammer, and the one where he uses a crankarm to bend the spokes).
Humans are better than machines to cope with the unexpected. In case of a malformed nipple or spoke, or any other surprise, a human can identify and correct a fault that a machine could let pass undetected.
The very REASON why a factory would choose to use a machine instead of a hand-building scheme has to do with cost-benefit of mass-production. It is not infrequent for this to go hand-in-hand with lower quality. So, a hand-built label would work as a "no-compromise" label for some products.

Hope this helps!


Is it worth it to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or add them later?

Don't decide your bike based on the stock tires. Tires are consumable components, and will not last like the rest of the components will. Tires are cheap, changing the frame or drivetrain is expensive.

Just ride the stock tires until they are worn out, then replace them with the puncture resistant tires, if by that point they are still important to you.

Many shops will swap out various components as part of a purchase anyway, so you can have your cake and eat it too.


Where does the third bearing go in my Dyno moto 7 cruiser headset?

Here's a dyno7 showing where bearings are.

A headset has exactly two bearings, because they preload against each other.  There is no place for a third bearing.
Possibilities

Somehow, someone used two bearing rings and somehow interleaved them.  I can't see this fitting and rolling at all.
there's some form of dust cap that has popped off and looks like a bearing, but the bike should would have identified this straight away
Did you take something else apart - like a wheel or the BB or even a pedal?  Theres a chance a bearing might have got mixed in, or even just picked up from another bike by mistake.
Assembly error - when the bike was put together, someone managed to loose a bearing and retainer down the head tube somehow, and couldn't be bothered fishing it out.
Spare - a previous owner intentionally stored a new bearing in there, under the headset cup.

If the steering is working fine with the two bearings installed by the bike shop, then roll with it. (literally!)

Later thought - does yours have the original cantilever brakes on the front wheel?  Could be someone's done something weird with the brake hanger, which was mounted above the head tube.
There shouldn't be a third bearing there - the hanger is clamped around the steerer just above the top bearing.   Better photo:


Looks like a fairly generic beach cruiser to me.  The wide saddle (seat) implies a comfort bike.

There's no suspension, but the tyres (tires) look fairly wide so it should roll over most street things without a problem.

I cannot see any brakes - either they're not installed yet, or it may be a coaster brake in the rear wheel.  There are no disk brake lugs on the front fork, so it has to be rim brakes.

Its either a single speed/fixed speed, or there might be a internally-geared hub in the middle of the rear wheel.

Full mudguards (fenders) would mean this is fine to ride on wet days.

The only odd thing I can see is the metal disks in the middle of the rear wheel - they may be packing protectors for the mechanicals back there, or they may be some part of the chaincase protection.

We don't do pricing or valuations here, but its a new bike.  You could assemble it and ride it yourself, or list it on ebay/CL for a low start.  It is worth whatever someone is prepared to pay for it.

Or you could keep it for the grandchildren :-P


Putting smaller wheels on a larger frame

Putting small wheels on a bike designed for larger wheels will provide you with an array of design opportunities.

Here's a rough illustration of the objective

Let's go through some of the issues. (not intended to be an exhaustive list)

Brakes
Pedal ground clearance
Chain ring ground clearance
Gearing

Brakes
If the bike has rim brakes they would become inoperable with small wheels.

Options
- Go with coaster brake 20 inch wheels and only have rear brakes.
- Do some creative wielding and install brake mount points that would allow calipers / v brakes etc. to function.
- Rig disk brake mounts on the frame and build disk brake 20 inch wheels.

If the bike has disk brakes the best option would be to build disk brake 20 inch wheels.

Pedal ground clearance
Smaller wheels put the pedals closer to the ground. You'd need to find a crank that is short enough to provide the correct clearance. If the pedals only hit on while turning you could learn to pedal only while going straight and keep the crank parallel to the ground while turning.

Chain ring ground clearance
Depending on what you start with this may not be a problem. If you find that your chain ring hits you'd have to go with something smaller.

Another way to address ground clearance is with some creative frame modification. If you cut the frame so that you can move the bottom bracket higher and then wield it all back together you can keep your current configuration.

Gearing
Smaller wheels have the effect of making all your gears lower and reducing your top speed. This may not be a problem for your situation but it's something to keep in mind.

A project like this is a great way to learn about the interaction of design choices.


How has biking changed in the past 15 years?

A few differences off the top of my (mtb) head:

Materials:

Hydroforming of aluminium tubes
Wider use of carbon for frames and wheels, not just top end bikes and on aggressive mountain bikes

Technology:

Disc brakes, both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes are standard
on mountain and hybrid bikes but slowly gaining momentum on touring,
road and cyclocross bikes
Electronic shifting on road bikes, Shimano D12 and other brands use servos to power shifting for more responsive and lighter changes
Clutch derailleurs on mountain bikes to eliminate chain slap
Dual chamber air sprung suspension, dual chambers provide negative pressure
Remote everything, cockpits are now designed so that all manner of adjustments can be made to a bike on the fly such as seat height and suspension firmness
Dropper posts on mountain bikes, while gravity posts have been around for years hydraulic posts are now common for dropping and raising saddles on the fly.
Thru axles are slowing taking over QRs as standard on mountain bikes and have less flex than QRs
Tubeless wheels, no longer do many wheels and tyre sets require tubes
Various different full suspension designs, but there's no best design
Tapered head tube on mountain bikes to provide more stiffness
Narrow-wide chain rings to support 1x drive trains
Press fit headsets and bottom brackets, while headsets are a bit older and been available 15 years ago there are now numerous standards of press fit bottom brackets
Through axle crankshafts (what's the right wording here?) BBs no longer have an integrated spindle and that is part of the crankset, again for stiffness

Geometry:

29" mountain bikes to roll over things better
27.5" (650B) mountain bikes to roll over things a little less better but to turn better
Slacker head tubes on mountain bikes for more stability downhill

Bike Types:

Cyclocross European mud racing on road bikes has become popular across the world and now most brands carry a cyclocross off road bike in their range, good on both road and gravel and hardy commuters
Enduro European gravity racing paired with climbing (either aggressive XC or mostly downhill racing however you want to look at it) has become a term to describe previous all-mountain bikes. Usually fluro colours with about 160mm of travel
Fat bikes large tired (wide) mountain bikes

Performing Enhancing Drugs

Apparently people no longer take them, it's no longer the in thing to do

The Olympics:

BMX became an Olympic sport

Safety

All mountain/endure helmets providing back of head protection


Is it safe to leave my carbon bike in my stationary trainer for extended periods of time?

If this is the kind you have, then leaving the bike in there should make no difference whatsoever. This trainer clamps onto the rear axle, it doesn't even touch the frame. When you're off the bike, the frame doesn't have to do anything except support its own weight - there's no possible way it could get damaged.

You're probably less likely to damage the bike, since you won't be knocking it over.


Are there real-life alternatives to the chain+derailleur combo?

Belt drive + Internally Geared Hub is a popular combination.

Existing systems are based around a gates carbon belt drive. See the Breezer Beltway series bikes. Also Reeb Cycles began offering belt drives for mountain bikes when they first came to market.

Also, now there is a breakable belt system called Veer that doesn't require a frame cutout (though uses cogs somewhat different from older belt drive systems) which could be used in configuration with an internally geared hub (when their new pro-version comes out). Currently it appears to be singlespeed only.

Though this is still rather similar to a chain drive system, there is less regular maintenance needed to keep the drivetrain clean as wear is not as damaging on the belt drive system. Performance is different with an IGH hub though.

There are also shaft driven bikes which engage with a standard internally geared hub (instead of a cassette like mechanism). See related SE question with some detail. Any experience with shaft driven bikes?


It appears that is some kind of fancy CNC'd aluminum ferrule. If so it might be a little chunkier than a regular one and randomly be able to encounter fit issues. If that is the case, assuming you're using normal spiral housing, all you have to do is get a normal plated brake ferrule like the one you had and you should be fine. If you're using compressionless aka braided brake housing, choose from the other options suitable for compressionless, like the Jagwire nosed ones.
If every ferrule you put in there is going in tight, you'll need to figure out why. Usually it's because of excess paint, or the two sides of the stop got squished together, or the stop got smashed shut at the opening a little. On an aluminum frame one must proceed with caution to find the best way of repairing it. I have very gently used a screwdriver to widen back out smooshed housing stops on aluminum frames, but there is some risk of it breaking completely. I've also used a small file to take away the dented-in part of the opening, which is typically a better way as long as the end result is workable because you really don't want to be bending anything non-replaceable around on aluminum frames.
4mm, 4.5mm, and 5mm refer to the outside diameter of the housing that goes into the ferrule. In contemporary times, all brake housing is 5mm, and shift is usually 4mm. 4.5mm is seen in a few fancy kit type systems, but is pretty uncommon.


Potential ways to silence a (new) Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub

I wouldn't guess ticking would be well silenced with thicker oil.
I would look for the source of the ticking by stripping and cleaning it.


Looks like 70s Schauff Elite. Compare it with bike here, the frame has very distinct shapes. A similar bike is also listed at the official (correct me if I'm wrong) Schauff website, the picture under number 28.


How long does it take to replace bottom bracket bearings?

There are three main categories of bottom bracket, adjustable type, cartridge-style, and external-bearing.

Cartridge-style bottom brackets are not serviceable, the replacement requires replacing the entire bottom bracket assembly. Removing the cranks and installing the new bottom bracket is a pretty straightforward task, and should take less than 20-30 minutes.

Adjustable-type can require a little bit of time to get the tension right, plus they are typically more difficult to remove due to the fidgetiness of lockring spanners and the fact that the fixed-cup is typically seized hard into the frame.  I'd allot ~45 minutes to an hour for that task. Depending on the brand of cranks.

External-bearing splits the difference - some have more steps  than cartridge bottom brackets, some are equally simple.

Note that in all cases, using the correct tools is important.


I wear a pair of Austin Pedal shoes by Keen to work at my government office every day.

They're a fine shoe—they look decent and accept SPD's.

They aren't anything special.  There is no gore-tex liner (I think it'd be overkill for my commute most days).  There is no reflective tab, though that would be nice.  There is no carbon-reinforced toe-box—also probably overkill for my commuter shoe.

I think that they are a pretty good match for what they do.  I have worn them to symphony, job interviews, and meetings with the higher-ups.  No worries.

I guess that, since you really are polling, I would suggest that I wish that they came in more colors!  It would be nice if there were more options.  I purchased these specifically because they didn't look like cycling shoes—not that I think cycling shoes are distasteful.  I did want something that I could wear around though, that would never be a potential distraction for others.


How to find the vertical height between any two points?

You can get an elevation profile of a route from using Google Maps and GPS Visualiser, as detailed on Aaron James Young's blog. In summary:

Create your route on Google Maps.
Grab the link, and stick it into GPS Visualiser.
Bingo! An elevation profile chart is created showing how the altitude changes over the route.


How to prevent chain looking dirty one ride after cleaning it!

Wiping off excess oil with a rag is good, but there will still be extra oil hidden inside the links in-between the roller and bushings.  This is what comes to the surface once you start riding. You can try spinning the drive train a bit (to bring this oil up) before wiping down a second time. Typically, you will need to wipe the chain off again even after a short ride.  Personally, I prefer a thicker oil, so that after second or third wipe to get the chain really clean I don't touch it again for a couple hundred km. A lighter oil needs to be applied sooner, meaning less time running clean.

Also, when you spray with water it typically takes longer than an hour to dry the water inside the links.  As such, when you are adding oil it may not penetrate as well due to water being in the system.  This could further contribute to the dirty mess you are seeing. Using solvents on the chain too early also removes the factory lube (typically a type of wax), which reduces chain longevity. In terms or real world use I measured a 30% reduction in chain life if you strip the factory lube out early. As the chain gets older, less factory lube remains and cleaning with a solvent becomes a non-issue.


Is it significant that my bike sometimes makes a "twang" sound when I hit a bump?

I would guess these are the spokes. When hitting a bump, you wheel gets compressed. The harder you hit it the more.

When you wheel is getting compressed some (Upper and lower) spokes obviously loose their tension. The wheel then will pop back in it's original shape due the rest of the spokes which are streched. This will bring back the tension to the compressed spokes which usually is noticeable with the "twang" noise.

It may be a hint that you need to tighten your spokes. The looser your spokes are, the more compressed the wheel can get, which again can loosen your spokes even more. This can create a downwards spiral until the spokes start breaking. Simply check your spokes an tighten them if necessary.

Look I drew a nice picture :)


I'd invest in a pair of bike shorts.

Casual riders going short distances on big comfy saddles can get away with casual or regular sports clothing. You won’t be able to do that riding significant distance on a sports saddle.

Bike shorts have padding, obviously, but are also constructed so there is no seam between rider and saddle. Regular sports shorts have a central crotch seam that is painful to ride on.

The reason to not wear underwear under bike shorts is to not re-introduce seams between rider and saddle.


I own & ride an XDS COM10 2014 bike. This is fitted with a Sussex (Taiwan) shaft drive transmission & Shimano Nexus 8 speed hub gear.

I have used it regularly for over a year & travelled about 4000km on it without any issues . It works perfectly, smooth  & quiet.I thought it was very reasonably priced at about AUD700 brand new on-line.
It is very similar to ride as a Trek S500 2007 Nexus 8 speed chain drive bike I own, only without the chain maintenance. I intend to fit it with Shimano Roller brakes like the Trek S500 which would make it about as maintenance free as one could get with a bike.

Downside would be the proprietary nature of the shaft drive system but it appears to be a high quality product & I think it will be durable But I didn't pay that much for the bike anyway & bought it because of the unique factor.

The front drive is totally sealed, the rear drive well protected & both are well lubricated. It is the same system used for more than 20 years by Dynamic Bicycles USA.
Removing/replacing the rear wheel is easy & easier than the chain drive Trek bike.

I note that there is plenty of negative opinion about this type of bike but it seems to come from people who have not actually experienced using them, which is disappointing as I think they have a lot going for them for recreational/commuting use, as do internal hub gear bikes in general.

It works for me !


L Limit screw can get front derailleur close enough

What I was missing was that the screw wasn't fully tightened but it was impossible to tighten the screw whilst the derailleur was against the limit and the cable was tight. Pulling the cable to move the derailleur and tightening the screw at the same time worked fine. Totally slack cable would have been fine as well I think.


Is there legal recourse to drivers passing too close?

I can relate to your disdain for being passed to close. Preferably, everyone would give you at least 3 feet. But as you mentioned, as more and more people ride their bikes and drivers get used to your presence and others', it will get better.

The problem with your wish is, it's kind of like prosecuting someone for stealing five cents from you. Sure, it's against the law to steal five cents from you, but no judge is going to hear the case. It's small potatoes. Too small.

You could get one of those shirts that has the 3 foot rule on the back though. http://www.3footrule.com/


Is it ever useful to use lubricating grease with EP additives anywhere on a bike?

The simple answer is no, because loads, RPMs, and temperatures on bike bearings are all relatively low. Any of the common bearing greases are fine, and if the bike ever gets ridden in wet conditions then water resistance easily becomes the most important variable factor among greases.

Whether the drawbacks of any of the EP additives might ever come into play in any bicycle application I don't know. But using common moly EP lithium grease is fine.


Most favoriable collision with a car? How should I act before collision, supposing enough time?

I'm going to answer the "if a collision is going to happen" question, not the "how do I prevent collisions", because that's addressed already. What advanced cycling skills are useful for a commuter or city rider? and Techniques for minimising injury when falling or crashing? both have safety tips. Although a more general "safety equipment we should all have" wiki might be handy.

I'm also going to assume they're not actively trying to hit you. Although since about 1/3 of fatalities involve a drunk driver this may not be entirely correct.

Collision from the rear

Despite being one of the most feared collisions, this is also relatively rare (although disproportionately fatal) at about 1.4% of fatalities. If it's going to happen you're almost certainly better off riding off the road to avoid it - crashing into something at bicycle speeds beats being crashed into at motor vehicle speeds.

Collision from the side

If someone is going to drive into you from the side I really don't know what you can do. Lifting your legs above the impact zone or even jumping onto the vehicle might help, and at least reduce the chances of you being crushed underneath it. My focus would be on quickly deciding whether to brake to avoid it, or sprint to avoid it. Then do that. Avoiding the crash is always the better option.

Crashing into something

This usually happens when a motorist turns in front of you or crashes into something in front of you. The cliche "superman" crash, where you fly over the car leaving your bike behind. As with motorcyclists, the best advice is to jump, because if your legs hit the handlebars and break you'll be in a lot of pain for a long time. Better to jump over the car, land on the other side and lose some skin. I've done this a few times and cracking a bone in my shoulder is the worst that's happened.

The advice in the linked questions above is definitely relevant here. Wearing reflective and highly visible, abrasion-resistant clothing will help, as will cycling gloves and decent shoes. A helmet is also handy. I have dynamo lights that don't turn off and a blinking red light on the back of my helmet that I often use in daylight as well.


Specific product recommendations are off topic on this site as they tend to become obsolete quickly.

There are plenty of breathable windproof, cycling specific jackets available and reviews are easy to look up.

Wearing a wind-permeable fleece on a bicycle in cold weather is less than optimum because cycling always involves wind (although you are moving relative to the air, rather than the wind moving relative to you.

When you add a wind-proof layer to your fleece you are probably over-insulated and get sweaty when riding, then cold when stopped. Try a thinner insulating layer, and open zips etc to get some ventilation when working hard and avoid over-heating.


Other than wicking sweat and drying quickly, there's nothing special about them. Any high quality athletic sock marketed for another sport will be comparable.