Is there a site which has a good collection of recumbent bikes, still for sale new, to compare?

There is not a site available (that I am aware of) that does such a thing.  Bicycle Blue Book might be close, but they don't give you the ability to filter by bicycle type.  Somewhat unrelated, I submitted a suggestion to them that they add that feature to their site.

What's available is often not as important as what's available at your LBS.  I suggest anyone new/getting into cycling pick an LBS and start developing a relationship with them by purchasing a bike/trike/bent from them.  A local shop should be able to help you select a bent that meets your requirements, get it fitted and help you keep it maintained after purchase.


Will yellow glasses stop me being blinded?

No. What blinds you is the relative brightness of the bike lights and the fact that unlike legal car lights, many of them are pointing straight at your face.

The yellow lenses are designed to increase contrast in daylight. They work by blocking blue light, which is scattered so that it comes from all directions and makes shadows less visible.

EDIT: The spectrum of most white LEDs does have an intense spike at blue wavelength. Most of the energy is still at longer wavelengths, where yellow glasses do not do much. They will also filter your own headlight and street lights if they are white LED variety. Because of Purkinje effect, the blue part of spectrum is more important for low light vision. This is why white LEDs seem disproportionately bright and why yellow glasses restrict your vision more in dark than during the day.


2 size bearings for hub which side of hub gets the bigger or smaller bearings?

Most hubs are same size both sides (9 quarter inch bearings). If they aren't, normally its the smaller ones on the freehub side (slightly smaller than the other side, maybe by a 32nd of an inch) and the larger ones are like a quarter inch and on the opposite side.


What is a nipple driver and would I use one to replace a broken spoke?

Wanted to add some photos of nipple drivers to augment @mikes's answer. Some are hex-shaft drill mounted drivers (top), some have straight screwdriver handles, others have offset handles to speed wheel building (bottom). They're handy for building up wheels quickly, but you need a proper spoke wrench for truing.


Why don't BMX plugs fit on MTB riser bar?

The outer diameter of bars is the same. Internal diameter can vary a bit between manufacturers, but you're going to have an ID of around 20 mm for road bars and 17 mm for mountain bars (source). A BMX bar is somewhere in between -- if you get the right MTB bar and the right BMX plugs, they'll probably work.

That being said, if you can't get those in with a bit of twisting and turning, you could probably shave them off. Or, go for an expander style plug.


Scott Aspect 710 chain: Shimano or SRAM?

Shimano chains are joined with a special pin that is driven through with a chain tool. SRAM chains come with a PowerLink or PowerLock.

I don't know if all Shimano or SRAM chains do but many have the maker and model stamped on the outer plates.

SRAM 9 speed and below use reusable PowerLinks, 10 speed and above use one-time-use PowerLocks.

Shimano and SRAM chains are interchangeable, as are KMC and other aftermarket brands.

If your newly installed chain 'fell apart', you may not have joined it correctly.


What you want are satellite shifters or the TT shifters.

I believe they just plug into the standard brake/shifters.


Recommended transmission for a commuting bike

New you can't do it for less than $200 unless it is off brand (not Shimano or SRAM)

Shimano does not offer 1x11 in the lower end groups.

It would be like 1/2 the value of your bike.

Not using the smallest up front is not a big deal.  I would just keep what you have.

You can remove the smallest and adjust the range if you want to.

Or you could swap to double crank.  Not sure if you can still use the same shifter or front derailleur.

Not seeing many used 1x11 yet.  Maybe look for a used 1x9.  I don't think there are any true (narrow wide) 1x8.


I have an old Sugino 110mm BCD ring set, can I replace low ring with SHIMANO FC-5650 chainring 34T?

34/50 is a standard combination, so 34/48 should work without problems. Friction shifters just make it easier to overshift and trim on the fly.


What groupsets are compatible with my bike?

There are a lot of things to check when doing a swap of your groupset.  Some things off the top of my head:

Hub/Freewheel compatibility:  Since you are increasing the cassette size, you may have to get a different hub and/or freewheel.  If the freewheel needs to be changed out, the new one may end up being a wider dimension, which will require a new hub that will keep the overall dimension of the hub/freewheel the same.  On mountain bikes, you may also have to contend with different axle designs as well.  i.e. through-axle vs. quick-release and different dimensions between chain stays.
Alignment of the chain-rings with the cassette: If you are changing the number of chain-rings or changing the spacing significantly, you will need to check that the spacing between the frame and rings is adjusted with shims on the bottom bracket or a new bottom bracket design entirely.  If you have braze-on derailleur hangers, this is critical.  If they are clamp derailleur hangers, there is some adjustment available.
Bottom bracket:  Most groups sets include the bottom bracket.  You will need to check that the frame diameter and fitment style (press-in vs. thread-in) will match the new bottom bracket
Shifters:  Since brake levers and shifters are typically integrated on a road bike, you will need to replace them to accommodate the new indexing on the rear cassette and/or front chain-rings.  Make sure that the new brake levers are compatible with your existing brake calipers.  Should be pretty standard on road bikes, but mountain bikes and hybrids require some more investigation when using integrated shifters.

Overall, you have a much better chance of getting a compatible upgrade if you stick with the same brand and similar technology (cable operated brakes vs. hydraulic for example)

Note:  As OP suggested, this answer was as generic as I could make it to fit other bike types/styles.


Is anyone aware of specific problems with Vanmoof cranks/bottom brackets?

I've got the same problem on (what I believe is) a 2013 3.1. I was going to try replacing/upgrading the bottom bracket myself soon, hoping to smooth out the ride.

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find the size online so I'll need to take it out and inspect before I can order a replacement, hopefully this goes smoothly.

Either way, I'll update with my results when I have them.

Update: Replaced with Suntour 68x118mm Square tapered BB from local (Arlington, MA) bike shop and removed chainguard (personal preference).  Awful sound is gone... For now.

Your mileage may vary. Good luck!


Can I use bar tape on my (non race bike) bike with flat handles (not drop bars)

You can use any road tape on a flat bar. The main reason people do it is to make the grips thin and firm. Even a thick tape will be thinner than a thin grip. It's important to choose a wrap orientation where the torque from your hand is working the tape in the tightening direction. For a typical flat bar that means turn the tape clockwise looking at the bike from the right or counterclockwise from the left. Usually it works better to locate the finishing tape on the end of the bar as opposed to the brake lever because you want to avoid twisting on it directly, but that part depends on where you prefer to put your hands on the bar.

Finding the wrap orientation that resists loosening for you depends on habits and weight distribution and can tend to require some experimentation, but most riders find there to be one that works best.


Change light switch on Supernova E3 Pure (Specialized AWOL Evo)

To get a switch in your system is pretty straight forward, get one of this switches.

Make sure that you install it in the negative(common, ground, black cable, etc) lead. It's good practice and for other appliances safer. Make sure to tape everything properly and if you can, get some heatshrink wrap.

Fo the usb "The plug" I assume, just take it off as any spider cap and disconnect the terminals and take it off.


Choosing a long-travel cross-country fork

Longer travel will change the bikes geometry. A 140mm travel fork has 60mm more travel, therefore needs 60mm more clearance. To get this, you need a smaller wheel or longer forks. Presuming you are sticking to the same wheels, you have to raise the sheerer height. The effect of this is a more relaxed sheerer angle - changing the handling for the bike.

Personally I would not do it. The Hardrock is not a down hill bike, and never will be. With your target price, as you have observed - you get a lower travel higher quality fork.  This would be far better. The fork will be stiffer and more robust, probably lighter and likely to be more adjustable.

In your situation, I would put on the highest quality shock I could afford, and forget about increasing travel. I recommend 100mm to 120mm max. A well setup better quality short travel fork will walk all over a cheap long travel fork on all but the most extreme DH rides, and the compromise when not on those extreme DH rides is, well, extreme......


What's the cheapest way to get into training with power?

There is a new website/download/software package called TrainerRoad that will allow you to train with Virtual Power for the price of a Trainer, ANT+ stick, Speed/Cadence sensor and $10/month subscription.

Checkout the compatible hardware page (linked on the main page) to see if you already have a trainer on their list of known power curves. If not the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine has a very consistent power curve and is available just over $300.

Add an ANT+ stick ($20-$40 online) to plug into your computer, it will pickup the signal from the speed/cadence sensor.

Add a Speed/Cadence sensor (Garmin $25+ - Timex $37+)

Optional (for virtual power) is an ANT+ HR strap

You could start to use the Virtual Power (with nothing but your bike and computer to start with) for under $400, much less if you already have a compatible trainer. The $10 subscription can be canceled anytime and they offer a 30 day money back guarantee, so almost free to try it.


It depends a bit on what type of theft you want to prevent.

If you want to prevent opportunistic theft, then all that is needed is to put a lock through the wheels, as a thief would then decide that the trouble of breaking them isn't worth his effort.

If you want to prevent deliberate theft, then adding a clamp to the towbar and locking it with that to something fixed might work, although no lock can withstand a determined thief.

Here is a list of locks, with scores for how good they withstood some tests :
http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp

Although the site is in Dutch, I think you can use it.


UK supplier of short toe clips for small footed woman

MKS, while alloy, makes smaller toe clips. I personally have a set of their small toe clips as I wanted to reduce toe overlap.

http://www.mkspedal.com/English/MKS_padal_news.htm

Most places that distribute MKS toe clips can order you the XS or Small size.


7 speed front Derailleur on 9 speed crankset

9-speed chain is slightly narrower, so a "9-speed" front derailleur might have plates slightly closer together, but that's not going to make a lot of difference:
 http://sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html#derailers

So if the FD M550 worked with a 7-speed 44-32-22 crankset, it will work with the 9-speed equivalent, but a new 9-speed might shift very slightly better.


Where is my Record Luxus Racer bicycle from?

I don't think this will help you much, but I own a record bicycle, a mountain bicycle, and this brand was sold a looong time ago in my country (Mexico), I hope that the fact that it was sold in my country help you find which brand produced that bicycle :)


New rocky mountain soul 29 making creaks by the bb

The crank arm is most likely loose on the square shaft BB. Remove it, clean it, grease it and retorque it in place.


10-speed shifters work with one wheelset but not with another

It's very likely that an 11 to 10 speed cassette spacer was used on the 11spd wheel that's not exactly the Shimano-specified 1.85mm thickness.

There's some range in what thickness of spacer will physically do the job. For example, people are always using 1.8mm Mavic cassette spacers for Shimano for the purpose, which works fine as long as you're not swapping wheels. But the 11 speed Shimano freehub was designed to have a 1.85mm be the size to create interchangeability with 10 speed native hubs.

If for some reason the hubs locate the cassettes differently even with the correct spacer, that would be surprising between two Shimano road hubs, but by the same token you could potentially use spacer tricks to compensate.

Once the cassettes are located right, chain/cassette wear and is worth looking at next. Wear can have enough of an influence on shifting ability to cause these problems. It's possible but not likely for it to be the decisive factor.


11-speed cassette, freehub and wheel compatibility

Although the dimensions of the freehub may be the same, and two cassettes may have the same spacing. The hub dimensions will not be the same.
So the position of the freehub in relation to the frame is difference between wheels. A difference of just 1mm in freehub shift is massive in terms of the way the rear mech aligns to the cassette.
Similar issues have been noted when using direct drive traininers, the gears will be perfectly aligned to the cassette on the wheel, but when you mount the bike to the trainer, the cassette is in a different place in relation to the rear mech, so shifting is not correct on trainer.
There is no work around for this, every time you want to swap rear wheels, if the freehub is in a different position in relation to the rear mech, the shifting will be off and it will need to be re-aligned to the new rear wheel. This means that the old rear wheel will not be aligned anymore.
In terms of combination 1+4, there shouldn't be an issue here. It might be worth taking it to a mechanic to have a look. Without seeing it, it's hard to know what is wrong.
I suggest you make the bike work for when you will use on the road, so have the gears set up for the new wheel and old cassette (ie wheel 3 + cassette 2). And then just be aware that the shifting will not be perfect on the turbo traininer with the old wheel and new cassette.
Edit from comment
Thanks to Weiwen Ng for pointing that that the CS-HG700-11 cassette uses the "10 speed" freehub body. This explains why there is a shim where the 105 R7000 uses the "road 11 speed" freehub body. This could also factor into the shift of cassette cogs in relation to the rear mech.


Swapping a road bike frame for a bigger one?

This is a very doable project. However, the cost benefit will vary. You need to be very sure of what parts will be reusable.  If you are going to pay your local shop to do the work then as @Eric Smekens has said, sell the old one and look for a bike that fits. If you are planning on doing it yourself it is an excellent way to learn how your bike works and how to do your own service. You must consider the cost of the special tools you'll need to buy, and if they will be used enough to justify the expense. Some cost considerations you may not have thought of. You may find some of the bearings serviceable, but not worth paying someone to reinstall them. Some parts may need to be replaced because they won't fit the new frame.


What's the proper technique for starting uphill?

Based on the Sheldon Brown article here's my approach. I find that putting the pedal 45 degrees forward of top dead centre is too far for maximum starting impulse - I go more vertical than that. I also start with my strong foot resting on the pedal, but that's partly because that means I lean the bike away from traffic and towards my single pannier when stopped.

Starting out on a hill I'm forward of the saddle. I push forward with the foot on the ground as I step up on the pedal, which puts the saddle under me.

But this depends on being in a suitable gear. And as you don't have a choice in this respect that sets an upper limit for your starting gradient. Unless your gearing is too high for the riding you do (and don't rule this out) you should be ok starting out on 4%. I have about a 6% start regularly, in a bike lane, and would be in something like 38x13 on 700C wheels - so a similar ratio to many single speed commuter setups I've read about. A little lower would be better, a little higher is possible.

One tip if it's a traffic light start in a bike lane: start as  wide as you can in the lane and get going as soon as sensible (this is both a personal and a local matter). That way any wobble out of the bike lane is done while you've got some space around you - but you've got room to wobble towards the kerb.


I stripped one of four bolts on the faceplate of my stem. Is the stem usable until the replacement arrives?

This really is an opinion more than a factual question.  That you still have three bolts means its held together, but it was designed with 4.
So there's a non-zero chance another bolt will go because the load is increased.  Look at the Arecibo cables just last week for an example of how quickly things can fail.
Nobody can categorically say "that is safe" OR "that is unsafe"
You're a functioning adult and can make a judgement for your own risk tolerance levels.  You know how much pressure it took to strip one thread, now that there is one-fewer holding the load the remaining extra to strip will be less.
OPINION: if you have another bike as an option, ride that instead.   If you can take a bus or walk, do that.   If you were stranded somewhere, you might choose to ride very carefully, or walk, or phone for a pickup.
I would not ride that bike until it is repaired.   You only have one face, and a stem failure can be catastrophic.


Why is my Hope XC freehub locking when the quick release is tightened?

The cartridge bearings in the freehub body were worn. Actually, only the one nearest the hub body was jammed. I've obtained replacements and all is well again. It was a relatively simple (though noisy) job to bash them out with an old screwdriver (remember to remove circlips first - a circlip tool came in handy).


Help Identify this new to me touring bike

Im disclosing I may be very wrong here, I thought it was possibly an 1987 painted Schwinn Tempo but since the SN is on the headtube thats impossible and its more likely its a 1987 Schwinn Voyageur. Im saying this mainly because of the Biospace crank sticker and Deore drivetrain and very similar features of the frame when comparing other pictures of this bike.


Should/can I return a new bike that seems too big?

I think it was downright irresponsible of the shop to sell you a bike that so obviously doesn't fit you. They should have done at least some basic fit testing, which clearly they did not. The trouble is, you're at their mercy now.  Since it's not a warranty issue, they're not obligated to exchange it. So I would be very polite in how I asked, and I'd make sure I asked the manager or owner, not some 18-year old sales guy.  But if they say no, I would push harder.  If they still refuse, I'd get a lot less polite and make it clear I would be very vocal about my displeasure with friends and the biking community, including online sources such as yelp.com.  I would then sell the bike while you can describe it as virtually brand new, and go to another shop that will fit you properly.


Just bought 30 huffys cranbrooks for a bike rental business. WHAT PROBLEMS SHOULD I BE PREPARING FOR

Forty years ago Huffy bikes were actually pretty well made, just heavy, ugly, and not very nimble.  But now that everything is made in China, as cheaply as possible, it's hard to predict the quality.

First off, you need to keep the tires properly inflated.  This is a seemingly trivial but incredibly important (and often overlooked) maintenance item.

Also set up a schedule to check every bike for such items as bearing play (both hubs, crank, and headset) and chain slack at regular intervals.  And squirt a bit of oil on the chains at regular intervals.

Otherwise, wait to see what breaks.  A lot will depend on how your customers treat the bikes.  Be prepared for some bikes to be destroyed, and for others to disintegrate on their own.  Expect to use damaged bikes as "organ donors" for repair parts for more serviceable bikes.

The Park Tools website and Sheldon Brown's site are your friends.

(I do wonder what provision you have for adjusting seat height.  You may need to invest in quick release adjusters for the seats.)


Should one buy a used Brooks saddle that is already broken in?

I've purchased a couple of used leather saddles. The ones that were barely used or just broken in were fine, but there was one well-used one that was the exception. Its sit bone area was visibly lower on one side than the other, enough that it was the likely cause of an SI joint dysfunction for me.

I'd say if it looks relatively new and close to the original shape, you're probably fine. If it looks worn or stretched and especially if it looks uneven, it might be best to pass.


Bicycle Storage: Does Kvartal method need studs (or other suggestions)?

To answer the Kvartal question: no, but in practice if you don't have studs it will be fragile and over time you're likely to pull the screws loose or right out of the wall. If the rack doesn't match up with your studs use a backing board attached to studs and you'll be fine - even a length of 1x4" timber would probably be enough. Don't use any of the processed woods (particle board, chipboard, MDF) as they're not strong enough.

The easy option is a stand that leans on the wall, since that doesn't require any holes in the wall at all. The disadvantage is that they tend to move around and mark the wall unless you anchor them in place. But that anchor can be quite weak, a drywall anchor will be fine. I haven't seen one designed to hold the bike vertically, but I suspect you could buy one that would be easy enough to modify one to hold the handlebars rather than the top tube (the one shown it looks as though you could bend the bars in so the hooks are closer together).

As WTHarper says, if you can find studs but they're not in the right place, the better approach is to attach a solid bit of lumber across the wall, screwed to the studs, then attach the bike rack to that. If the wall is painted I'm am not a fan of the screw-in hooks, inevitably the bike ends up pressing on the wall and marking it. Better to buy a proper suspended rack and hang the bike on that. Or make your own, add a second cross piece lower down to brace on and a couple of timber triangles will work fine.

There are a heap of very pretty DIY solutions here, you could do this one with a couple of bits of 2x4" at each end if you don't want to spend the time on shelves:

Since you want a vertical stand something like this might work, and could even be arranged so the saddle doesn't (quite) touch the wall. That would make it less likely that you'd mark the wall. (As Daniel says, this is the same idea as the Kvartal holder you're asking about)

If you're lucky this will fit on the short wall behind the door, otherwise it'll block off half the room. Note that I'm suggesting wheels-out so the dirty parts are in the middle of the room. You might prefer to mark the wall rather than have wet, dirty wheels in the middle of the room.

IME drywall screws will not work, drywall just isn't structural. The electrical panel right there also gives me pause, even hooking a cable with a drywall screw could be bad (either by pulling the sharp edge of the screw through the insulation, or just pinching the cable and starting a fire). But mostly, to work well enough to hold even a light bicycle you'd need to carefully arrange them to get the forces right, otherwise you're going to tear the hole  or rip one out of the wall. Screwing a board to the studs, then the rack to the board is a better solution.

One last question: does it fit in this way round? I assume you've tried, but if that works it's the least effort option. You might want to tape a bit of card to the wall where the front tyre hits and by the rear axle (and rear tyre) if it does work.

Edit: Another Option:
Would this fit on the wall beside the door? If so, then if there is no stud where it needs to be mounted, place a length of wood between the door and corner, screw that into the wall studs and mount the hook anywhere you like.


Why does my front brake cable push out of my brake lever?

The lever is not broken.
The lever's job is to pull the cable away from the brake.
There are springs in the brake that should pull the cable away from the brake lever.
The cable housing should allow the cable to move back and forth with as little friction as possible.
Since it was working before the crash it makes sense that something was bent, kinked or damaged restricting the cables ability to move. Your hand is able to overcome the friction when you pull the brake lever but the springs on the brake are not strong enough to pull the cable back.
It boils down to sticky cable or weak springs. Chances are it's the cable because a crash usually does not weaken springs.
From the video it looks like you have a v brake

Things to check: You may want to disassemble the cable from the brake to isolate the problem.

Make sure the brake arms are moving freely but not sloppy. The mounting bolts should be tight without restricting movement of the brake arms.
Make sure the cable can move smoothly in the cable housing and in the cable guide.

Any cable housing kinks, hard turns, or incorrect cable installation will restrict cable movement. You want smooth bends and low friction along the whole route.
Sometimes a little silicone spray inside the housing helps even when the cable housing is lined.

Sometimes you can increase brake spring tension with the balance screw.


Go for it - you're young and riding over the last year will give you an idea of your capabilities.

Do make sure your bike is maintained - having a mechanical is no fun.  Take your spares/tools and food and water.

If the distance is challenging, think of it as an "out and back" which is each-way only 3 km longer than your normal rides.  It becomes two rides in one day, with a bit of a rest at the half way.  For me, there's a nice pie shop about 60 km away, so that's two rides with a 30 minute light-lunch stop in the middle.

Pacing is good, don't go too hard out in the first half.  But the rest at the half way will help a lot and the ride home will always feel shorter than the ride out.

You'll never find out what you're capable of if you keep doing the same trips and distances.  Extend yourself and push some limits.


How to prevent the quick-release pin on the Tektro drop brake lever from rattling?

On my levers I use tight rubber O-rings. I did them myself out of old tube.
This levers are easy to disassemble — to get QR pins out just press on them.


How to mount posters, bills or placards on a bicycle

The most practical approach we found for larger posters was trailers. Like this They're somewhat inclined to fall over in the wind so you have to be a little cautious, but the group who were using them lent them out to a range of people without any problems (other than getting the trailers back afterwards). You can attach the same A frames to a loadbike if you have one.

Up to about A3 you can strap to your back, ideally to a backpack, or to the sides of a rear rack. I've either laminated posters or printed on coreflute, then stapled them to a wooden frame and cable tied them to the bike. The problem is that you have to print large for people to be able to read it, and that means "BIKES GOOD" rather than a paragraph. The graphic below I stole from a guy in Sydney because it's IMO good - simple, easy to grasp and direct. You could leave the "critical mass" off if you wanted to, obviously.

If you want to attach slogans to cyclists it's easier to do it on a T shirt. Critical Mass have a huge range of advocacy shirt designs and places like the Chicago Flyer Exchange have a range of artwork ready for you to use. People will generally pay you for the shirts, so you can use them to fundraise a little as well (cost of a printed shirt is usually a lot less than people expect, so just rounding up to the nearest convenient price usually results in a cheap shirt and a small surplus).


How do I know when to replace my bottom bracket?

Pull your cranks laterally. Do they
move?
Give your cranks a good spin,
preferably without the chain. Hear
any unusual grinding noise or little
clicks ?

If you answered no to both questions, keep pedalling. You're still fine.

It would be nice if the BB was always smooth as butter, but a little rough doesn't mean it's broken.


25000 km isn't a lot.

There isn't a time or mileage you should consider swapping out a frame. Instead, you should look for damage, such as dented tubes or cracks. You should be especially wary if you've been in an accident to check your bike out. Carbon fiber complicates this a bit, because its failure modes are generally more rapid than metal and harder to detect damage visually.

The mechanic might be trying to sell you something (most likely) or he might be right. You may want to get a second opinion from another mechanic.


Rather than boiling water get one of these filters from katadyn  or MSR

It won't remove all chemical poisons - but neither will boiling - it can remove some depending on how soluble they are. See Water filter use

And unless you are drinking from chemical waste spills for weeks on end I wouldn't worry, if one area is high in arsenic the next won't be !


Help in identifying Fuji Suncrest bike based on serial number

Perhaps.    However, that model name was produced in years:

1994-1996 (steel frames)
1999-2000 (aluminium frames)
2003-2004 (aluminium frames)

according to: http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1995&brand=Fuji&model=Suncrest

So if you compare the components to the specifications for each year, you might find a match.... this assumes that its running original components still, or that you can pick out and ignore the obviously changed parts.


On a Shimano Tourney equipped bike I would not bother upgrading much. You could put an Altus, Acera or Alvio crank on but there is no point going beyond that.

The TY301 fits on a cartridge square taper also bottom bracket. Altus, Acera and Alvio ranges all have triple crank that fit on such a BB. The trick is that different cranks need a different length BB axle to get the right chainline. What you'll need to do is match the new crank to your current BB - OR - get a new BB with the new crank.

Shimano makes this really easy by publishing all the compatibility information. The FC-TY301 page lists the BB's it is compatible with, you can look up other cranks specs here https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc.


Chain replaced but bottom jockey wheel "jumps"?

The jumping is either chain friction (ie the links are not moving smoothly against each other) or links catching on teeth.

Fagan.co.za has a useful article on chain suck.

To summarise his points, the most common causes of chain suck are:

Mud causing extra friction
New chain with a worn chain ring
Worn chain with a worn chain ring
Worn chain with a new chain ring

Because the chain loads up unevenly on teeth on the bottom of the chain ring you get high friction, and the chain won't disengage properly from the teeth.

First up - clean your chain and lubricate it properly.

If the problem continues, the simplest fix is to replace the chain ring, but you could also get your teeth reprofiled to reduce the friction.


For loose gravel, I believe what you want is big, wide tires that you run at a relatively low pressure.  I don't think knobs will help much.

The wider the tire, the more it will press the loose gravel down instead of pressing through it. If the gravel is pressed down it will tend to stay more in place.  Also, if some of it shifts, a wider tire will be more likely to have grip on something that isn't shifting.

I don't think knobs would help unless the gravel's fine enough that the knobs are larger than the gravel pieces: they'd tend to push the pieces of gravel out of place just as you roll over them, which isn't what you want to have happen.  And unless the gaps between knobs are the size of the gravel pieces or larger the knobs won't really grab onto the gravel pieces, either. Probably don't hurt much, though, especially if they're more to the side of the tread pattern.

Take into account that you'll always have an upper traction limit of the gravel's friction against the gravel under it, which can be quite low, especially with smooth rounded pebbles that can roll over each other.


Why are my ENVE SES wheels rubbing on frame when Zipp 303 didn't? Same tyres

Many rear wheels with high-profile rims lack lateral stiffness. The beefy rim itself may be stiff, but there may be too few, too thin spokes, possibly at too small angles. As a result, when you ride out of saddle the rim and tire may be moving sideways enough to rub the frame or brake pads.

Here's a very good article if you're interested in this in detail: Debunking Wheel Stiffness

Also, you're not alone with this problem with Enve SES wheels: ENVE SES 4.5 with ENVE hub => brake rub


Can I use a Center Lock hub and disc brake rotor in place of an ISO hub?

Yes, this should work just fine. CenterLock and ISO six bolt wheels should be interchangeable w/o problems as long as they use the same rotor diameter.


difficulty in shifting to lower gear on shimano (6 speed rear gear)

There is a problem with the cable that links the shifter to the mechanism (rear derailleur)

The cable has become slack over time and needs to be tighter. You can tighten it by turning a barrel adjuster if there is one present. it might be as pictured and there might be one where the cable leaves the shifter on the handlebar. looking in the direction of the arrow, turn the barrel adjuster anti-clockwise to make the cable tighter.

Make small adjustments, ie one quarter turn at a time. You could search for videos to help. It's straightforward when you know how, but difficult and frustrating the first time. Your local bike shop would be happy to help you too.


E-bike battery doesn't work anymore, where do I get this specific one?

I don't have an exact answer - most of us ride plain old human-powered bikes, but you can tell from the label its a 36V Nickel Metal Hydride battery with a total capacity of 8 Amp-hours.

Most ebikes these days are Lithium Polymer variations, for weight and power density reasons.  So I suspect your bike is getting a little old.

If the manufacturer doesn't sell batteries any more, you may be able to "repack" this one with new cells.  Its a little hands-on, and requires you to bust-open this package carefully, and swap the EOL cells inside for new ones of the same chemistry and rating and specs.

There are companies who do this sort of repacking for power tools, but in today's throw away and planned obsolescence society, it is often cheaper to replace the battery pack (if you can find it).

Can you go back to the place where you got the bike originally?

If you find an answer, please add your own answer to your question.


What clothing is best for wet weather/cycling in the rain?

Lightweight polyester or microfiber materials do the job. Pearl Izumi is my favourite. Bike specific rain jackets are a must if you are looking for comfort. Generally they are very thin and have air vents in them. There is no reason to wear heavy rain jackets. Instead, layer up up with a base layer (often merino wool or synthetic thermals) + mid layer + the shell (which is the jacket). That is probably the most common layup for cyclists and it will keep you warm.


Gates belt drive front sprocket replacement

I'm Ryan with Gates Carbon Drive.  The fix is not difficult, but there are a couple of things that I would recommend.  Simply removing the 4 chainring bolts is not the best course of action.  I would recommend removing the rear wheel from the dropout.  If you are unsure about this, we have put together a video here: http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/tech/resources It's the 5/5 video.  Once you remove the rear wheel, place the belt around the bottom bracket, and remove those 4 chainring bolts.  There is a special tool used to hold the back of the bolts from turning while you loosen the front part.  While it may not be necessary to use this tool, please be careful if you use anything else.  Mount the new sprocket, center the sprocket on the spider as much as possible, as this will reduce the amount of tight and slack spots you will get, and then torque the bolts as stated by the crank or bolt manufacturer.  Replace the belt on the front sprocket, and then on the rear sprocket.  With the belt on the rear sprocket, place the wheel back in the dropout.  Make sure that the wheel is fully seated in the dropout, it may help to place weight on the seat to make this happen.  If you can get the wheel to fully seat in the dropout, re-tighten the axle nuts, and reconnect the hub - refer to the video above for detailed instructions.  If you can't get the wheel to fully seat, you may need to play with the EBB to loosen the belt.  After this, you will need to readjust both tension and alignment.  Either way, after you have re-installed the rear wheel, make sure that the belt has proper tension and alignment before riding.  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact.  You can find our phone and email info on our website.  If you are at all uncomfortable, please take your bike to a local shop.  Better safe than sorry.  Best of luck!

-Ryan


Can small pebble inside tire puncture the tube?

If the pebble was sharp, it definitely could be the reason. Each time before you change the tube, check the tire from the inside for any thorns that stuck or (something that happens quite often) glass particles that left inside. Using sealant tubes could be another great idea if your main riding is off road (I think that without them I would be changing tubes two times a ride).


First road bike, decade old quality or lower end and new?

For context, my current road bike is a 2010 Cannondale Six Carbon, which would be a comparable model to the Madone you're looking at.

I would say you will still get much more bike from the used Madone than from any new bike in a similar price range.  But to help you out, let's go over what has changed in the last 10ish years in the road biking world at the mid-high end, and how much of that has trickled down to more entry level models.

Groupsets: Drivetrains have moved from 10 speed to 11 and now even 12 speed.  On the high end, electronic shifting has gone from rumored, experimental tech to near ubiquity, but this has not yet trickled down to entry level models, so it's not especially relevant to this discussion.  As for the addition of the additional sprocket or two, it does generally give you a slight bit more range if you live in a very hilly area, but otherwise I expect you won't notice much of a difference.  Note that some tech has trickled down in terms of design and machining, so the entry level components on a new bike are actually very similar in build quality to the midrange components the 2009 Trek would have.
Brakes: The last few years, the bike industry has made a significant push to introduce disk brakes into the road cycling world, and a new bike will probably come with disks rather than rim brakes.  This change has actually been somewhat controversial, with many cyclists unhappy that they are being "forced" to move to disks and questioning whether there is actually enough benefit from disk brakes to justify the additional costs and difficulty in maintaining them.  But that is a whole discussion on its own...
Frames: In general, carbon fiber frames have gotten lighter and more aerodynamic, although surprisingly not that much stiffer.  The biggest difference is the introduction of vibration damping elements, such as Trek's IsoSpeed decoupler, which have increased the comfort of newer bikes without sacrificing other performance characteristics.  Having said that, a high quality carbon frame from 2009 will still be lighter and better performing than an entry level aluminum bike from today.
Wheels: Fairly minor changes all in all, but most people have moved from 23mm wide tires to 25mm or even 28mm; as a result, rims have gotten slightly wider.  On the high end, deep section carbon rims have also become much more popular, but any bike spec'd with carbon wheels is going to be several thousand dollars.  Going along with the groupset point above, wheels from 10 years ago will probably not be able to hold an 11 or 12 speed cassette, which is often the limiting factor when upgrading an existing bike to a new drivetrain.  Similarly, old wheels will not have mounts for disk brake rotors, for whatever that's worth.
Saddles: No groundbreaking changes to saddles, just minor refinements, but newer saddles are probably a bit more comfortable.  This is a highly personal thing that's easy to swap out, though.
Cockpits: In the name of aerodynamics, integrated cockpits have become increasingly common on high end bikes.  These certainly make the bike faster in the wind tunnel, but are proprietary and importantly may restrict the amount of adjustments you can make to find your optimal fit.  Regardless, they have not (yet) found their way onto entry level bikes.  Basic aluminum handlebars and stem are mostly unchanged in the last 10 years.

As you can see, while there have definitely been many improvements and technological shifts in the bike industry in the last decade, most of those improvements have not trickled down to the entry level, are comparatively minor, or may even come with their own drawbacks.  On balance, I'd lean towards the old, high end bike, but with the awareness that standards have changed and it may be more difficult to get parts for it over time.  If there's any reason to avoid the old bike, that'd be why.


Cycling without clipless pedals and groin weakness

Is this because of increased leg muscle (weight)?

I am confident that no, bicycling has not packed so much muscle onto your legs that they are now too heavy to walk normally and comfortably.


Recommendations for waterproof map carrier for an adventure race

I'd forget the map holder, it's just extra bulk and complexity that you're better off without in an AR. Fold the map up small enough so you can just hold it in your hand while riding. It takes a little practice but you'll get used to it. No need to put it in a waterproof map case unless it's raining, and even then most AR maps (usually mytopo in my experience) you'll see are waterproof. If you plotted with a sharpie you shouldn't have a problem with your points washing off either.

There are a few benefits to this strategy, the main one is speed. Unless your checkpoint is right on the trail you'll have to spend time removing the map from the bike to carry it off the trail to go find your checkpoint, then spend more time putting it back when you're done. Sure it only takes a few seconds but those seconds add up over the course of the race. It's also tough to refold the map when it's inside a map case and clipped to your bike, probably not something you're going to be able to do on the move, so you'll have to stop for that as well. Holding the map allows you to do all of this on the go, easily.

It's also easier to share the map (as if that would ever happen in an AR). If you need an up close look at the map it's easy to bring it closer to your face and make sure you're not missing anything. The bike mounted holders can be tricky to read on rough terrain as well.

If you have to bikewack you'll be glad you don't have a giant piece of metal on your handbars to get stuck on every branch and briar you pass by. You'll lose a lot of time there too.

I use something like this:

http://www.argear.com/splash-caddy-map-case.html

I keep it strapped around my waist. If I need both hands free for some reason, I'll put the map in there. I also keep a locsack in there in case there's a deep river crossing or a downpour that makes me nervous about the map's integrity. I usually don't read the map from inside the case, I use it more as a pocket. I will use it for it's intended purpose on a paddling section when you need both hands to paddle, but that's about it.


Just a guess, but it looks a lot like a motobecane to me.


bar end shifters on drop bars - why not run the cables all the way to the stem?

It will work, but you will add considerably more housing and 2-3 more bends in the housing.  The additional bends will introduce friction which will affect shifting performance, but it should be usable if the cable and housing are good quality and you avoid damaging the cable during installation.


AGAINST

One of my primary issues with bike lanes is that motorists tend to think that you have to stay in that lane.  So when you have to move right because of debris, garbage cans or parked cars in the lane it further annoys ill-informed drivers.

Additionally, drivers come to expect you to be out of traffic, riding on the shoulder, and will squeeze by you closer.

Many bike lanes are placed immediately to the left (traffic-side, may be right depending on the country) of the parking area, so if you remain in the bike lane you are in the "door zone".

Bike lanes tend to increase confusion and conflict at intersections, either forcing the cars to cross the lanes in an awkward manner, or enticing cyclists to filter to the front of the lane and possibly blocking turning actions by motorists. Bike lanes encourage passing on the right, which can be a very dangerous action for the cyclist.

Finally - by law in most places every lane is a bike lane... there is no possible way for designated bike lanes and routes to be marked to every destination I would like to visit, and by law when I am in the lane I am traffic, I'm not blocking traffic. (sorry, I get a little militant about bike lanes, especially when they are the primary focus of improved cycling infrastructure rather than wider roads with calmer traffic.)

FOR

As someone with some experience teaching workshops for new bike commuters, I find that the existence of convenient bike lanes and multi-use paths makes taking those first trips easier.  Novice commuters feel more comfortable riding on a marked bike lane, even if they don't realize that they may be marginally less safe in a bike lane at the far right edge of the roadway, generally a riskier position.

There are some places, like one particularly popular area in Salt Lake City, where rather than position a lane demarcated with white lines to the side of the travel lane, the DOT painted a wide green lane with bike icons almost in the middle of the right-most travel lane and erected signs that read "Bicycles Allowed Full Use of Lane."   This is not a bike lane, but a hybrid or shared-lane, and  I love it because it reinforces the fact that bikes are traffic, and roads must be shared.


Disk brake and wheel is moving: is my fork too long?

The front wheel (of wheel set you linked to) has a 12x100 mm front axle (road thru-axle) but comes with an adaptor for 9x100 quick release axle, and the fork is made for 9x100 quick release axles. Did you install the adaptor kit correctly on the front wheel hub?
If you grab the front wheel by the tire close to the top of the fork and push/pull the wheel from side to side, do you notice the wheel moving at the quick release?
If it moves, there must be something wrong with how the quick release holds the wheel to the fork. Do the end of the axle of the wheel hub protrude out of the fork so the quick release can't make correct contact with the fork?
Minor notice:
The brake disc and brake caliper is not 100% compatible. The RT70 disk is ment for calipers using narrower brake pads, and the MT 200 uses wider brake pads. This means the brake pads is slightly larger than the brake area of the discs, but I'm not sure what the actual consequences will be in this case. Shimano has a document that state compatibility of their products:
https://productinfo.shimano.com/download/pdf/com/2.6/en


Intro:
What started out as a question on how to secure a Penny-Farthing has evolved through significant peer review (see comments) into a broader discussion of really a comparison of competing security options to protect expensive bikes- Penny-Farthings or otherwise. So somebody interested in securing their expensive street or mountain bike could benefit from reading this article.
This solution has been significantly peer-reviewed and I've updated the answer to incorporate the useful feedback in the comments from @Michael, @Criggie, @DanielRHicks (from his comments in the "Question" section"). Thanks to all who took the time to contribute to improve the quality of the answer; I'm most obliged.
Security Design Plan:
The security is to prevent theft of the Penny-Farthing while garaged.

The security should not be able to be defeated with bolt cutters, but require advance tools like an Angle grinder which will be loud, attract attention and take increased time to defeat the security

Immobilize the bike in a way to prevent a thief disassembling the Penny-Farthing to defeat the fierce chain & shackle. ie: the thief can't remove the rear wheel fork, remove the front wheel and/or slide the chain off of the spine using disassembly techniques.

Once immobilized in such a way that a thief can't leave with enough parts to be useful through disassembly, chain the Penny-Farthing to a fixed object to prevent it being removed to a location the chain can be cut using an angle grinder or other heavy-duty tools.

Alternatives Bike Security Considered But Rejected:

U-Locks: After researching solutions, I saw too many pictures of these on the 'net being defeated by cutters. U-Locks were therefore quickly removed from consideration.

Standard Bike Chain: I tried using one of these, but the effective length of the chain is only 50% because the free end must be looped-back to the shackle.  Although the Penny Farthing could be immobilized, there was insufficient slack to chain it to a fixed object. So a thief could throw it in the back of a van or truck and subject the chain to an angle grinder at their leisure without risk of getting caught.

Longer Non-Bike Chains: Bike chains are crazy expensive. But to be fair, they're pretty fierce and incorporate features to defeat cutters and leverage attacks. For the sake of completeness, I investigated potentially purchasing just a long length of commercial chain. However, it was expensive and no where near as tough as the bike chains.

Hybrids: Producing a solution from using different security types. The cost of these generally exceeded the cost of the ultimate winner, the "Kryptonite NEW YORK CINCH RING CHAIN 1213" which provided an integrated approach where the system was designed as a whole. So a hybrid system of separate lock types and chains tended to be more expensive and introduce weaknesses into the system as a whole.

Solution: The Cinch or "Noose" Chain:
This chosen solution below uses a single chain "Kryptonite NEW YORK CINCH RING CHAIN 1213" to achieve the security design goals. Could be used when cycling, but at 10.55 lbs (4.79 kgs), you'd need to be a pretty sturdy person to lug it around ;-)
After being unable to both render the bike inoperable AND secure it to a fixed object using a standard security chain, I discovered the "noose" chain. Its' genius is that instead of using one BIG loop to chain both ends to a shackle, it allows you to create a "noose" around the  wheel & spine/frame while creating a SECOND loop around the fixed object giving you the maximum possible effective useful length of the security chain. And this solution is extensible to ANY type of bicycle.
On one end of the chain is a large round link that allows the free-end to be fed through it.  Now there's more slack to wrap the chain around a fixed object and then join the shackle to it.
A few illustrative pictures on how specifically to secure a UDC Penny-Farthing follow.  However, a cyclist who uses a "safety" bicycle can also immediately see the benefits of the noose chain.
The model of chain depicted in the solution is:
"Kryptonite New York 1213 12mm 120cm Bike Chain Lock With EVS4 Shackle"
Step 1:
Pass the the chain through the front wheel and then pass the free end through the big "circle" link on the chain's other end ABOVE the mount pegs on the spine of the Penny-Farthing to create a "noose" and cinch it tightly. Alternatively, one could "noose" through the front wheel & forks.

Step 2:
After "noosing" the front wheel to the spine/frame, run the free end of the chain around the fixed object. Ensure that you choke-up as much free slack between the cycle and the fixed object when joining the shackle: this prevents the thief from loosening the noose to slip it over the mount pegs. PLEASE NOTE: I know a movable ladder is not a great fixed object and only used for illustrative purposes. I'm not going to show how I secure things on the Internet. I also have a cameras with motion detection ;-)

Step 3:
The Final System: Remark that the "noose" chain employs TWO loops ensuring you get the maximum effective chain length for your money!

DOWNSIDES:
This chain is HEAVY.  So not really very portable unless you're The Hulk. However, when toodling with friends on our Penny-Farthings, we tend to take them into pub gardens and "stack" them together next to the table, so they're never really unattended. I really just use the "noose" chain for when it's garaged.
Conclusion:
I accept that given enough time and opportunity, ANY bike can be stolen. I'm merely trying to increase the level of difficulty to stealing an expensive bicycle. Anyway, after ages of racking my brain trying to secure my Penny-Farthing, hopefully this saves others the same grief.
This is ONE solution; I'd be keen to hear how others have solved this problem!
About the Security Designer:
Although a Linux & Network Engineer now, I served formerly as a New York City Police Officer.  So I have some insight into how naughty people behave (or rather "misbehave"). And I cycled in New York City, where if one leaves their bike insecure it will be gone in the proverbial "New York Minute". Indeed, that's why Kryptonite brands their fiercest locks "*New York". BTW, I've never had my bicycle stolen living in Gotham which I consider quite an achievement ;-)


Are center lock rotors less likely to rub or resonate while riding than 6-bolt rotors?

Intermittent rub that corresponds to load received by the frame or fork doesn't have anything to do with how stiff the rotor or its connection to the hub is. It's the fork or frame being flexed, not the rotor.
Usually the issue is caused by the air gap between the rotor and pads being too little, such that flex that would otherwise go unnoticed is causing rub. Causes can include rotor truth, poor caliper centering, piston stickiness issues, crooked wheel installation, poor parallelism of pad surfaces in the caliper, and/or poor brake mount surface alignment. Sometimes one sees a situation where none of those problems exist but rub is occurring anyway from the rider simply overloading the bike, but that's not very common.
Center lock versus 6-bolt is not a factor. On QR disc bikes, the stiffness of the hub axle can be a factor, however. In particular, going to a thru-bolt hub is one way that rub under load can be mitigated in those cases where it's happening when all of the other potential causes have been pursued. Thru-bolts add stiffness to QR forks and frames.


Headset upgrade, problem finding headtube dimensions for my 2020 Giant ATX 3

You can measure this information yourself sooner than discover it here or elsewhere. When I've done the same thing on bikes I've noticed how little information manufacturers provide on things like this, I wish they gave more info.
You need to measure the fork steerer diameter at the top and at the bottom where the crown race seats, as well as the inner diameter of the headtube top and bottom. so four numbers in mm.
Then you need to know what kind of headset is required. It could be External Cup (EC), Zero stack (ZS) or Integrated (IS). Looking at photos it's not EC but you can detect what it actually is quite easily in person.
With this information you can specify the requirements, search for 'S.H.I.S code' for more detail, Park Tool's explainer is nice and clear.
Up to you if it's good value for money to replace such a new headset.


Using "disk-only" rim (proper sidewalls) with rim brakes

Facts are few and far between on this topic. It's best to assume that a disc brake rim won't have sufficient sidewall material for braking, and this is true the majority of the time.
There are some notable examples of rims where by all appearances, the extrusion sure looks exactly the same between the disc and rim brake versions. DT TK540s and TK540 Discs are one such.

However, there aren't very many current examples of rims like that, but there are a good deal with parallel looking sidewalls that are or should be assumed to be too thin to be a brake track.
The structural efficiency and weight savings of foregoing the brake track are very real, and now that disc brakes are the norm there's not a lot of impetus for manufacturers to eke more value out of an extrusion by using it for both disc and rim designs.


Upgrade new bike to 11 speed or downgrade trainers wheel to 8 speed

The spacing/pitch between the individual cogs of the 8 and 11 speed cassettes are different so if you want to make the training bike work properly with the 11spd cassette you will have to replace your right side shifter (shifter for the rear derailleur) with an 11 speed version or with a friction shifter. Also since (as pointed out by @Argenti Apparatus) the actuation ratio of 8 and 11 speed derailleurs are different, you will need to replace the derailleur with an 11 speed compatible derailleur. Removing a few cogs from the 11 spd cassette won't work due to the different cog spacing as long as you don't upgrade to an 11 SPD shifter due to the different spacing between the cogs. You can ride it but you won't be able to properly index it and the drivetrain will wear out faster and you probably won't be able to shift into some of the gears due to not being able to properly index it.

Do keep in mind 8 speed cassettes are a lot cheaper than 11 speed so the replacement parts (cogs or entire cassette, when the current cassette is worn) will be more expensive also.


The triple is irrelevant. So long as the derailleur has enough capacity(which is determined by the size of the chainrings and cogs in the back; this is basically controlling how much chain length derailleur can keep tensioned) and largest cog ratings (for clearance ratings), you can put a bigger cassette.

There may be other ratings on the data sheet -- minimum cog rating, and maximum front chainring difference. These aren't really important. Exceeding the maximum front chainring difference may increase the chance of dropping the chain since the derailleur will need to take up some amount from a front shift.

The capacity is generally conservative -- if you don't use combinations like small-small, you can exceed whats written on the derailleur. Obviously, the derailleur needs to be matched for compatibility to the shifter.

That being said, you may also want to switch to smaller chainrings depending on the size of your chainrings.

Another item might be switching the type of bike your mom is riding -- if she has a regular road bike, a more relaxed geometry like a dutch bike may be more comfortable and ridable. Spending some time working out bike fit may also pay off, even with the existing bike.


Correct cable end for Shimano BL-M421 brake lever

Those look standard to me. The saddle you're looking at is designed to pivot as the lever moves to the cable itself isn't bent (because it would fray quickly). The smaller hole on the top is there so you can see what's happening, and on the underside is a larger hole with a slot so that you can get the cable end in and out. How the cable end its once the brakes are set up isn't really important, the system is designed so that the cable/cable end can rotate and your brakes still work.

A wikihow page on changing brake cables has this photo that shows the slot a little more clearly:

I find that sometimes when fitting new cables the saddle will jam on the lever, but once there's tension on the brake cable that will vanish - it's the saddle being out of position that causes the problem.

It's more likely that there's muck around the calipers jamming them up, or the cables need replacing. The brake cable and outer should last at least a year or 5000km (they wear out as well as get old), but it's also possible that especially cheap ones, or ones exposed to salt water, won't last that long. But the bike in those photos looks very clean and new, so it shouldn't be that.

I suggest releasing the cables either from the frame, or if that's not possible, undoing the cable at caliper, and running some chain lube down inside the housing. If you don't know what you're doing this can make your brakes not work, so find some instructions online and follow them if you're not sure. There are a lot of options, and if you can find a set of instructions that match your exact brake it'll be easier.


Can I reuse Jagwire hydraulic brake hose?

Technically you could, but it's a very bad idea.

The two fluids are incompatible and will contaminate each other, forcing you to re-bleed sooner than expected.

Whichever solvent you use to clean out the hose of mineral oil, will also be a contaminant for your dot fluid. In addition, you'll need some serious dedication and resolve to make sure you actually clean it out completely.

Labour + more dot fluid > Cost of length of hose.


Topeak Explorer Tubular Rack two versions confusion

29" and 700c rims are the same diameter (iso 622mm). Primarily, the difference in width and length is to accommodate wider MTB frame stays and tires...I'd stick with the TA2026-B.


Almost any rear derailleur will do.  You aren't limited by the shifters (since they're friction shifters, they have no index incompatabilities) and it's a 7 speed, so anything that is rated for 6, 7, or 8 speed will work fine.  Go to a local shop that sells used parts or a local community group and take a look at what they have in their parts bin.


Should I grease a carbon fiber seat post?

As the person who made that claim, the reason is that allegedly some greases can attack the epoxies found in some carbon fiber applications, causing a breakdown of the CF structure, and causing expansion which will jam the post in place.

The epoxy will otherwise not corrode, so it's not necessary for that purpose. The manufacturers also recommend you do not do it.

I have a carbon fiber seatpost in a steel frame that I greased a long time ago before I learned about this and it isn't stuck, but I might just be lucky.

And of course, if you use a grease specifically designed for carbon fiber applications it negates all these claims, for they refer to the run of the mill stuff.


What is a good way to weatherproof a bike outside

Just leave it alone.

If you have a steel bike and theres gaps in the paint, the rust is likely cosmetic, but you can carefully sand and prime and paint the area. Aluminum and Carbon fiber shouldn't have this problem.

Oil your chain regularly, and replace parts as needed -- your drivetrain will rust out quicker but that's the nature of it. Rain, snow  and salt tend to degrade your drivetrain quicker than nice conditions, but theres nothing to do about it unless you bring the bike indoors.


It is not officially recommended to reuse single use master chain links, but in reality everyone re-closes them all the time (even roadies, I read somewhere). The worst that can happen is that the life span of the master link will decrease after reuse, but you were about to throw it anyway ending its lifespan. Carry a spare new one with you so that you can replace it in an (unlikely) event of breaking. Just don't sue the manufacturer in that case.

If stakes are high and you are in some serious competition, obviously you don't want a mechanical problem; otherwise, you should be prepared for on-trail repairs anyway.

The last thing: do not carry old master links over to a new chain. if you throw away a chain, its master links go away with it.


The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled.  But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.

You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel.  Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.

The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try.  Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.

Here's a cutaway of a generic rear

Or another view of the same area

There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame.  The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut

First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts.  We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate.  Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper.  Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly.  Need to find that sweet-spot.

Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it.  These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut)   The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:

As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel.  They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources.  A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.

Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.

This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex.  Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.


arm and elbow position -- sticking out or straight, also pushing or pulling on handlebar

Ultimately all road bike positions are a compromise between comfort, power and aerodynamics.  The balance between each component depends on your goals, experience, flexibility and any underlying injuries or physical dysfunctions.  If you find a position that works for you, that is outside the "typical" road positioning, then you should consider it as valid as more typical positions. A good fitter should be able to accommodate unique personal characteristics. That said, you must also be careful in that non-stand positions may also lead to other unintended problems over time if you do not have a good awareness of how your body operates biomechanically.

What follows are some answers to some of your explicit in-text questions.

Elbows in or out

  The fitter told me I should not stick my elbows out (which I do). He said my arms should be a little flexed at the elbows but in a straight line when viewed from the top (ie not sticking out).

A lot of road positioning is about reducing frontal area. Keeping your elbows in reduces your frontal area thereby reducing the amount of new turbulence created as you move through the air.  Reducing your frontal area allows for greater speeds to be attained for the same level of effort.

While critical for racing, a recreational rider may benefit from comfort over aerodynamics.  I recently shifted to much wider road bars (44 cm instead of 42) with an additional flare in the drops (which adds another 4 cm).  This sticks my elbow out relative to more standard road bars.  I know I am less aerodynamic with this setup, but I am also a lot more comfortable.  It opens up my breathing, and makes the bike easier to handle on mixed terrain (i.e., gravel and dirt).  For me this compromise is worth the loss of efficiency (for this bike).

Pulling or pushing on the hoods

  He also said I should be gripping the hoods with my hands pretty strongly and pulling rather than pushing on them, which uses abdominal muscles more than shoulders.

I am suspicious your fitter is really only considering performance fits.  If you are racing or doing large efforts (e.g., 250+ watts sustained effort) you need a way to resist the force generated by your legs.  In this case a low body position and pulling back on the hoods works well.  If you are riding in a more relaxed pace (e.g., under 175 watts), this body position makes little sense as you have less force to resist.  This is why touring and endurance positions typically have shorter reach and more upright (higher stack) as you do not need as closed of a body angle to resist the force generated by your legs.

If your cockpit is setup too long and low for the type of riding you do (e.g., performance fit cockpit given to an endurance or recreational rider), then you will feel you need to consistently push against the hoods to keep yourself upright as you are not generating enough force from your legs to fully support your upper body weight with your core muscles (i.e., your core muscle do not have enough force to resist against to keep you upright so you rely on your arms).

Neck Pain

  He said that neck pain can be caused by pushing on the bars which hunches my shoulders up.

While it is true that neck and back pain can be caused by hunching up the shoulders there are multiple possible sources that can cause you to hunch your shoulders (not just the one pushing on the bars).  For example, a cockpit that has a reach that is too short and a stack that is too low can also cause you to hunch your shoulders.  Even how your pelvis is rotated on the saddle can affect your spinal alignment leading to hunching and neck and back pain (personal experience).

Ultimately, fit is a tricky subject, often depends on an individuals goals, underlying flexibility and pre-existing injuries.  It is also a bit of a moving target that can change day to day especially if you have unresolved injuries or flexibility issues.


Are neutral service bikes actually useful?

The problem is the lost time due the break down. The question is 'can a ride catch up after a break down', the neutral support bikes gives him a chance, no matter how small.
After a breakdown, the rider has two choices - wait for a team support vehicle with a bike fitted for him, or take a neutral support bike and get moving (likely at a slower pace) while the support teams sort out a bike and arrange a suitable place to swap.  (I suppose he has a third choice - withdraw from the race)
From  a pure racing perspective, the answer is as simple as filling in the variables - Lost time waiting vs lost time on the slower bike and a second bike swap. In some cases the second swap may cost more than the slower bike, in which case finishing on the neutral support bike would be pragmatic.  All this is easy to say on paper - in the heat of the moment this is all a judgement call.
However, the neutral support bike has a significant safety advantage where the breakdown has occurred in a location that the support team cannot get well clear of the other riders. The rider and neutral support team can be cleared from the dangerous situation in the shortest time possible, and a safe location for the riders support team to setup the bike and hand it to him can be chosen. The pressure to get the rider moving comes off the riders support team, who may compromise safety in the heat of having a rider standing around waiting for them. The team also have more time to set the bike up exactly right for the rider, so less chance of an incorrect configuration.


SRAM compatible 11 speed 12-25 cassette?

You should read Zinn's articles (a, b, c, probably others) on 11 speed drivetrain compatibility.

The surprising upshot is this: You can swap a Campagnolo 11 speed, Shimano 11 speed and SRAM 11 speed wheel in for each other and they will work (*). You can put SRAM and Shimano cassettes on each other's freehub bodies.

The Shimano Ultegra CS-6800 comes in a 12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25, so this is a cassette you can buy and use.

(*) Zinn notes there might be a tiny amount of indexing adjustment necessary. The SRAM/Shimano swap for wheels isn't really surprising, but the Campagnolo one is.


Can a 10-speed mountain bike chain be used on a 10-speed road bike?

Using the "approved" chain is probably better if all else is equal, and it may be worth a slightly increased cost for more peace of mind. If you already have the mountain-specific chain, there's no harm in trying it. And if the mountain-specific chain is far cheaper and you aren't picky about shifting performance, it will probably be adequate (but no guarantees).

The "mountain bike specific construction" of the HG-X chains seems to be as follows (quotes from Performance Bike, High on Bikes, Amazon, and Competitive Cyclist):

"Dyna-Sys chains have 4 different types of outer plates that facilitate shifting up & down on the cassette or between chainrings."
"HG-X Chain uses a directional design with specifically shaped inner and outer plates to optimise shifting over the chainset and cassette. Outer plate design has been developed to reduce the chance of chain suck. The inner plate has been developed for better contact with gears providing smoother shifting under high load, giving efficient pedalling, increased rigidity and near silent running."
"Open design of inner links increase mud shedding ability."
"Mushrooming of the pins gives unsurpassed side-plate retention, enabling the chain to far exceed the BS/ISO standard for breaking force."
"Chain is optimised for Shimano 10-speed HG-X MTB drivetrains only."
"Advanced pin riveting technology yields same strength as 9-speed Hollow-pin technology for lightweight Mud-shedding, off-road-specific design."
"Since the action of climbing up the ramps and pins from one chainring to another is slightly different from climbing up one cog to the next, Shimano chose to shape the left and right side plates differently to optimize the chain for each specific purpose."

Given the prevelance of the words "optimized performance" in product descriptions, I would conclude that using the "wrong" chain may affect performance, but it wouldn't cause failure. This conclusion is bolstered by this report from a user who switched from HG-X to a non-Shimano chain (the opposite direction of what you're intending):

"Shifting under load up hills with the Connex is slightly less smooth than with Shimano's HGX chain, but it works just fine.  I'd say it's the same as Shimano's non-HGX chains or any other good top end chain.  This is for sure a nit-picky difference." (Cris LaBossiere)

Of course, you'll never know for sure until you try it on your own bike and judge it by your own standards.


Finding a replacement crankset (and maybe a bb to go with)

This is one I prepared earlier, the question is slightly different than the original Can I replace chainrings without replacing the rest of the drive train? but the answer suits. You have the same considerations for a selecting a new chainset as this question.

Chain line

When selecting a new crank set you need to ensure it aligns with the current chainline of your bike. If you change the chain line you may not be able to use all of the gears on your rear cassette in all gears up front.

Bottom bracket

You need to ensure that a new crankset will be compatible with your current BB spindle length and interface. (square, octo, isis, hollowtech etc.) If your BB has a lot of wear once you have the cranks off its not a bad idea to change the BB at the same time as they're not that big a cost. Also it's sometimes if you get a good deal on a crankset to get a matching BB as they're the cheaper item.

Chain length

You may need to shorten the chain going to smaller rings if the derailleur doesn't provide enough tension.

Rear derailleur capacity

Not a problem when shifting to a smaller crankset but if going larger you would need to ensure that the rear derailleur would handle the additional cogs. There are tools online to help calculate this.

Wear

If the chain and rear cassette are showing signs of wear it's often wise to replace these at the same time as they will wear a new crankset faster.

Chain width

If you are buying a new crankset it has to be appropriate for the number of gears on your bike, this is because chains are different widths to accommodate more gears on the rear cassette. The rest of the drive train is sized to fit the chain width.


Protecting carbon bike frame after a small chip?

The effects of the chip depend a bit on "how much" was chipped away. Generally it is always better to seal the chip. I have seen water getting under the protective paint/carbon layer and the area slowly expanding.

If the chip is small I've heard people using nailpolish with good success. For anything a bit bigger, I would probably bring it into a carbon repair place and have them check that the carbon is still structurally sound. They can also repair the chip more professionally.


Yes. Any local bike shop should have them in stock, and they should cost no more than 5 dollars. You need to know the brand and type of your chain. (i.e. Shimano 10 speed or Campag 11 speed) If you know the model (i.e. Ultegra or Dura Ace Shimano, that is a bonus.

By the way, Shimano refers to it only as a reinforced connecting pin, or replacement connecting pin.


Safest way to slow down a bike quickly if both sets of brakes fail

BMXers in some places put the shoe between rear tire and frame, just where the rear brake normally is attached to the bike. I've never done that, because I used to run knobby tires (ouch!), and nowadays I care a lot about brakes.

You really should avoid this situation, because many times there would not be much to do.

I would guess, a good alternative would be to turn sharply while leaning the bike, and then skidding the rear tire sideways. That is already difficult to do in a planned way, what to say when you are frightened...

A good thing to do is follow the advice "brake early, brake often", so you don't have to find out your brakes are not working only when is already too late.


Shimano SM-RT900 Dura Ace Center Lock Rotor on Ultegra

Yes, you can use SM-RT900 rotor with with a BR-R8070 caliper. Calipers rarely have rotor incompatibility (width, size) and almost never across the same manufacturer product range. There are some things to keep in mind, but none of potential issues are caused by particular caliper/rotor combo:

SM-RT900 has Centerlock interface. The front hub must be either Centerlock-compatible or you can get a Centerlock to 6 bolt adapter.
Rotor size. If you plan to replace an existing brake rotor and decide to go with a different size (140mm or 160mm) and assuming your setup uses a regular flat mount fork/caliper, then you'll need to flip the caliper mounting bracket between 140 and 160 rotor size positions. Hopefully you don't have a rare fork that dictates only a single caliper position.


What bicycle manufacturer used this emblem

Your bike is a Scattante bicycle. They produce a model called the Americano and the logo can be seen in this photo of a different Scattante bike.


I've also never seen a bearing ball fail like that.  In Jahaziel's answer to this question:

When do bearings need to be replaced?

he notes that in Honduras where he lives they sometimes could only get cheap Chinese bearings that "used to 'peel off' like an onion".  Perhaps you got some of those?  See also the response of "Mike" in this thread [1], who had a similar (albeit worse) experience with cheap bearings.

Good properly tightened bearings should last for many thousands of miles/kms, and usually races tend to show the damage more clearly before the balls do.  I've never actually over-tightened a hub and tried to ride on it to see how it fails when it seizes (and I'm not saying you did that, but it's the only other explanation I can think of other than cheap bearings), but based on both the SKF paper linked above and this paper [2] and this analysis [3] it seems like ball bearings delaminating or fragmenting is not the most common failure mode, because none of them discuss it.  Particularly in [3] you can see that the balls in seized bearings  polished off a contact patch against the race rather than disintegrating.

[1] http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-23340.html

[2] http://www.elongo.com/pdfs/BearingFailures990519.pdf

[3] http://met-tech.com/failure-analysis-of-ball-bearings.html


Depends on the actual spec, but both bikes, as you've identified are fairly similar apart from the suspension.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/atx-3
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/escape-3
The drivetrain & brakes are almost the same, but the Escape is slightly more road oriented with 700x38mm tyres, whereas the other has 26 or 27.5" x about 53mm (note: 26" is mostly obsolete for quality tyres, etc., so I'd prefer a 27.5" but on a cheap bike like this it probably doesn't matter much).
The highest gear is 48 x 14 on the Escape and 42x14 on the Atx, while low is 28/34 vs. 24/34. If you are on fast road then you might well like the 48x14 over the 42x14, but up a long steep climb or off road you could also use the lower gear.
The suspension on the ATX is one of the cheapest suspension forks around https://www.srsuntour.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Consumer/Bike/Exploded%20views/2014/Suspension%20Fork/SF14-M%20Series/SF14-M3030-A-P-27.5-63%2C75-%281%29.PDF
It's just a spring damped by a piece of foam.
I'd consider it a downgrade on no suspension. Generally you can get enough suspension for most things with wide tyres at low pressure - the pneumatic tyres provide compliance with the road. I can ride over potholed roads with 23c tyres, but it's not fun. 38c is fine for potholed tarmac but if I was cycling over steep tracks that were never surfaced, I'd prefer a wider tyre than that. You can change these tyres yourself, but it's possible the fork/frame/brakes wouldn't fit wider tyres, so you'd need to check that. Keep in mind that in countries with good roads, 38c is already far wider than many people use.
Cheap suspension is popular with new cyclists, but experienced cyclists tend to prefer for cheap bikes like those you mention, no suspension, and then much more expensive and sophisticated suspension for actual mountain biking. This is because suspension adds weight, requires servicing, and may absorb your pedalling forces especially with such unsophisticated suspension which is not properly damped.


You don't need to take the cassette (cogs) off to clean it.

Use a citrus degreaser fluid. Clean the chain and chainrings at the same time. You can use a rag pulled taut to get between the cogs, or there are a number of specialized cassette and chain cleaning tools available.

There are many instructional videos out there with tips on cassette and chain cleaning also.


High-quality commuting bike with "women's" frame

If you and she are willing to throw down on a custom, I can personally recommend Violet Crown Cycles. Otherwise, consider the Rivendell Betty Foy/Ivan Gomez or building up a Soma Buena Vista... but she might actually do fine picking up a mass-market step-through that fits well (Electra, Jamis, and Trek have models worth looking at) and upgrading the components as desired.

For a ride that long, I would actually recommend against a Dutch bike; something speedier would likely be better. Believe it or not, an upright posture is not necessarily ideal; I find that a more forward-leaned posture keeps long skirts from blowing back and up in headwinds. (There are other ways to deal with this. The headband-round-one-leg trick works.) Avoid crank-forward/"flat foot" designs for this reason.

I will disagree with Batman above regarding durability. Though I've seen that claim many a time, I have yet to see anyone with a horror story regarding a mixte or step-through frame falling apart or anything similarly catastrophic... or even bothersome, for that matter. I've gotten along just fine with both my step-throughs; if they flex more, I don't notice it.

My somewhat ornery but experience-driven suggestions for skirt-friendly bikes:

Fenders (minimally a rear fender)
Chain guard. Chains like to eat skirts, as well as deposit grime on them. (Consider a belt drive, rare though they are -- lack of grime is one of the things I dearly love about mine.)
Disc brakes and/or a skirt guard on the rear wheel. Rear rim brakes LOVE to eat skirts; I lost two dresses to my Electra Townie in my early days with it because of this. (Check Etsy for aftermarket fabric skirt guards.)
Internal gear hub if she likes really long, full skirts. A skirt-eating derailleur is a long shot, but depending on the hanger configuration, it could happen.
Decent carrying capacity. I don't mind carrying a messenger bag while in a dress, but she might, especially on that long a ride... and even I (fifteen minutes door to door) sometimes sling mine into a pannier.
If the bike she picks only has one set of braze-ons for water-bottle cages (which is common for step-throughs), I recommend adding a handlebar cage mount; these are easy to find aftermarket (e.g. this one by Velo Orange).

And for bike-friendly skirts and dresses:

Pencil skirts longer than just above the knee are Right Out. Forget it. She'll tear it to pieces trying to pedal, no matter how it's gored or slit.
Shorter skirts can work, but wear bike shorts underneath. (If she's going to do that, though, why not just wear the shorts and change into the skirt at work?)
Full skirts work fine if she avoids skirt-eating chains and rim brakes. (The Victorians did it -- so can we!)
Maxi-style straight dresses work fine if the material has some stretch, such that knees don't leave unsightly "dents" in it.
Camisoles, for any dress neckline that isn't reasonably close-fitting. If she prefers an upright ride, this isn't necessary.

Good luck! I'm not sure the perfect bike for this use-case exists in the mass market (that's why I went custom), but she ought to be able to find something that doesn't compromise too much.


How do I use the plastic backing on patches?

The Rema Tip-Top patches that I use--which sound similar to those which the questioner describes--come with instructions in each plastic box.  The package that I have shows the instructions pictorally in seven steps.

Here is the product that I use:  http://www.artscyclery.com/descpage-79002.html

In step 7, the manufacturer distinctly recommends that the user remove the plastic backing.

I usually remove this cellophane backing myself.  It sometimes is a little finnicky--if your patch isn't totally set it will seem to pull up the patch.  Just use your thumb to set the patch more carefully.  In the package's Step 6, the manufacturer uses a totally unidentifiable rectagular object to smooth out the patch before removing the cellophane.  I use my thumb, personally, and it works just fine.

If one side of the cellophane won't seem to come off without removing the patch, you didn't put down enough vulcanizing fluid.  Try the other side.  If the patch is reasonably centered, this shouldn't be a problem.

The answer about leaching chemicals is news to me--though I admit freely that I never looked farther than the instructions in the box for advice.

Once in a moment of frustration, I left the cellophane on and put it into the tire--no problems so far.  I had some concern there would be a problem if the cellophane were stuck between the rim and the bead but this doesn't seem to have been a problem for Anthony K or Darren Cope.

It looks as though it doesn't matter, but the manufacturer of Rema patches recommends removing it.  I say remove it carefully.  This is best done if you are generous with the vulcanizing fluid and careful to press the patch into place.


How te remove the front wheel on a Merida misson cx400

Looking at the specs on Merida Website you have Fulchee through axles, FH1200 and FH1700.
Looking at these on the Fulchee website (for the front FH1200 at least) I see that the lever for releasing the thru-axle is integrated and needs to be pulled out for use, termed a hidden lever design apparently. You'll see a slotted piece instead of a hex key fitting, you need to pull this slotted piece out and it is the lever you need to use to unthread the thru-axle.
Unusual!


See for a definitive (imho conservative) answer the almighty Sheldon Brown(bottom of page). The rim width can vary a little between wheels.

Having said that, I have been running 700-35c Cyclocross knobby tires on standard Shimano Ultegra road racing wheels for years without any issue.

Another really good tire for commuting and light offroading (gravel) to get on a CX bike is the Schwalbe Delta Cruiser (be sure to get the 700x28c version). Almost as fast as road tire, much higher comfort, long lasting and decent puncture protection.


How often should I have maintenance for my bike?

Have it looked over once decade, whether it needs it or not.

Otherwise, if nothing's giving you trouble, all you need to do is to air up the tires and put some chain oil (buy "dry" chain oil from a bike store) on your chain once or twice a season.

Assuming this is a multi-speed bike, to oil, first hold a rag on the chain and crank backwards to wipe off as much surface grime as possible.  Also wipe off the derailers.  Then slowly crank backwards while dribbling oil onto the chain.  Go over it 2-3 times.  Then wipe the chain again -- you only need oil on the INSIDE of the chain.  Finally, put a few drops of oil on the derailer idler pulley bearings and on the derailer pivots, and, again, wipe off any excess.

An occasional squirt of spray lube (eg, TriFlow) into the shifter/brake cable housings is also a good idea.

Be sure to check your air pressure at least every 3 days, or before each ride if longer.  It's a good idea to get a "floor pump" with a built-in pressure gauge -- much easier to use than compact pumps, and you'll not be so inclined to put it off as you would if you just use the gas station pump.


What are these two "clips" on the bolts holding by rear disc brake bracket to the frame?

From https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT-BR-M775-Caliper-Fixing-Bolt:

  Keeps the bolt from backing out. Torq the bolt then slip the lock over the bolt head and rotate in the direction the bolt would unscrew unntil the tabs hit something. This will stop the bolt from turning if it loosens.

Also: https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/29154/908


Why are my front suspension forks so stiff?

Weighing 52 kg, you are at the lightest end of what might be expected for an adult rider, so you will need the spring to be tuned accordingly. A coil spring has a narrower range of adjustment than an air spring, so if you are too light for the spring, it will not compress enough to be very useful. A lighter spring would be needed.
Reading the generic SR Suntour service manual, it states that your fork is shipped with a medium spring and, aside from tuning the preload:

Two additional spring hardnesses are available for SR SUNTOUR suspension forks - softer and harder than the standard coil spring.

There are three springs available then, to suit riders of different weights, at 52 kg you are too light for the standard spring and would be better served by having a softer spring installed. There are customer service numbers in the service manual too, they could guide you in sourcing a spring as they will be fairly uncommon.
It wouldn't be too difficult for your local bike shop to do the work once the part is sourced, however this raises the question of value. How well will the amended fork perform for the money, and for how long? You might consider putting the money (parts and labour) towards saving for an upgraded fork with an air spring which can be tuned much more precisely and easily; the service manual does give the specs for their air forks for rider weights under 55 kg, so this should not be difficult.


There are two schools of thought.

1a) Bike box:  This is a hard shell, fairly large box that with wheels, pedals removed, and handlebars (disconnected at the stem) put to the side fits your bike.

From a safety of your bike perspective this is pretty protective.  I have used this approach flying within the United States, and over to Europe.

You will almost certainly be charged by the airline extra. At one time membership in the US's Mountain Bike association (whose name escapes me) had a deal with many airlines to waive the fee.

1b) Paper bike box: Sometimes you can buy these at airports (Call ahead), or else many bike stores will let you grab one from a new bike they recently assembled.  (I know taking Via Rail on Sunday from Ottawa to Toronto they sell them for $10 at the train station).

2) Bike bag: By using a soft bag, it implies to the luggage handlers, be gentle.  I know people who travel with bikes who swear by them.  Again wheels and pedals removed, to minimize size.

I am not personally convinced that luggage handlers at airports around the world really feel that way.

You will still likely have to pay an oversized luggage fee.

In both cases, many airports have different luggage carousels so it will probably NOT come off with your regular luggage, so look around or ask where that might be.  I have seen as nice as a specially marked obvious area, to an unmarked door you have to wait at.

Also, some smaller planes might not have room for your box or bag, so they might send it later, making you wait for it, depending on how your connecting flights work out.


How to fix numb hands on new gravel bike despite professional fitting and shorter stem?

Look at the position of your shifters. It is often overlooked, people talk about positioning the handlebar by lowering/raising the stem, shortening the stem, but you can also move the shifters on the handlebar. Make your wrists comfortably straight. Many people (and shops) place their shifters too forward/low. Try to bring them back/up a little.


Do all stems have the same stack height for the steerer tube clamp?

No, the clamp that mounts to the steerer is not a standard height. There will be slight differences in the stack height of the clamp itself between different makes and models of stems that can typically be accommodated for with addition or subtraction of a small number of spacers, or the difference may be so slight that you don't have to change your spacers at all.
Spacers are cheap so don't sweat it. The only situation where you could run into trouble is if you have no spacers and a steerer that is already nearly too short and you move to a stem with a taller steerer clamp (stack height). Doesn't sound like that's an issue in your case, though.


Can anyone give me some information on this Peugeot frame I bought this weekend?

I have a peugeot frame of a similar age and have found it to be more bother than its worth.
There was a period when peugeot made an effort to make all of their compenent dimensions round metric numbers. This practice was not adopted by many other manufacturers so getting parts to fit that frame might be a hassle.
On my peugeot frame;
Steering tube internal diameter is exactly 22mm, so standard quill stems (7/8 inch, approxmiately 22.2mm) will come frustratingly close to fitting, but wont in the end.
Pedal threads are 14mm (I think), again, frustratingly close to standard (9/16 Inch approximately 14.3mm) but incompatible.
Seat post diameter is 24mm which seems to be a defunct size, thankfully smaller diameters are available so shimming is an option.
Not sure about bottom bracket threads or anything else because I shelved the project
I sincerely hope that your frame is not of this era because they are really nice from my experience. A friend lent me an approximately late 70s/early 80s peugeot for a while and it really was very pleasant to ride.
You might find these links useful.
http://www.bikeboompeugeot.com/
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/velos.html


You mention that you do not like the extra cost of the SKS fenders, but I would say that I have had excellent luck with them lasting 3+ years with no issues at all.

They are incredibly well made, and while not the cheapest on the market, they are not Honjos @ $100/pair either.


Affordable trainers for winter conditioning

All trainers are adjustable and will work with a wide range or tire sizes and wheel diameters.

Efficiency isn't a concern with trainer because their function is actually to be completely inefficient i.e. to make you do work, soak up your energy output and turn it into heat. Low noise, adjustability, and  'feel' are what you are looking for.

If you want affordable, look on Craiglist or an equivalent bike and gear used marketplace where you located. Where I am there seems to be many to choose from. People buy them, don't get into indoor training then look to sell them on.

Make sure you get a trainer than is compatible with your rear wheel, attachment - quick release or through axle. Be aware than cheaper trainers that clamp onto the quick release skewer can chew it up, so consider getting a cheap or used sacrificial one.


It sounds like what probably happened is you did the kind of ride where the brakes are exposed to enough wet grittiness that significant pad material is lost over the course of one ride. This is also kind of the hallmark disadvantage of organic pads, if that's what you have. The 3mm pad adjusters primarily exist to compensate for pad wear, so that's what you should be doing to narrow the gap again. The idea is that eventually when the pads are all the way worn, you can then screw them back out and not have to adjust anything else for the new pads.

Another element to this can be that any initial error in parrallelism between the pads and the rotor will also result in the gap widening quickly as they break in and wear into a more parallel state, which you would also use the adjusters to correct. Some amount of this is inevitable although you want to avoid it as much as possible with good initial adjustment and prep. It's unlikely you experienced much of this here unless those first 1500km were somehow in very mild conditions without much need for the brakes.