Regarding the brakes:
Your current brakes look like long-reach brake calipers to me (older type which has longer lever arms (less leverage). You have to account for the rim getting closer to the frame when you upgrade to larger wheels (I don't think you'll be able to find 27" wheels new, by far the most common size is 28" (700c aka 622mm inside rim diameter). If you are looking at road bike (or more specifically non-mtb wheels) the size 29" should not appear. 29" is often used for mountain bikes with big wheels (3 sizes in mtb wheels, 26", 27.5" (650B) and 29").

29ers or two-niners are mountain bikes and hybrid bikes that are built to use 700c or 622 mm ISO (inside rim diameter) wheels, commonly called 29" wheels.

"The name "29er" comes from a bicycle called the Two Niner, which was offered by the Fisher bike company in 2001, according to 1998 Mountain Bike Hall of Fame inductee Don Cook."

source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/29er_(bicycle)
So 29-er mountain bikes do in fact use 700c or 622mm inside diameter rims. The name is just a bit confusing. Either way as long as you look for "road bike wheels" or "touring bike wheels" or "28 inch wheels" or "700c" or "622c" wheels you should be fine installing them on your bike (assuming there is enough frame clearance to fit the bigger rim/tire. The 28 inch wheels' rims do differ in width , i would suggest going with a similar width to your current rims (the width of the tire should be listed on the sidewall of your old tire and it should give you a good indication of your current rim's width, or you could measure the rim width with a caliper or other measuring tool to get a more exact figure. A wider rim will weight more, be a bit stronger, will allow for wider tires which will result in a cushier ride. If you go too wide the tire might not fit in the frame and it will start rubbing.
To summarize:
You need to account for the change in rim size for determining if you can install a certain brake caliper properly, from 27" to 28" this should be approx an inch in diameter so half an inch in radius.
If you would want to use your old brakes you could probably get away with it on the rear brake (it looks like the pads can be adjusted in upwards direction enough to account for the change in rim size), the front cannot be adjusted much more upward from its current position though..).
For installing the Sora (or any other modern short reach brake):
Check the minimum distance from the mounting bolt of the new brakes to the center of the pads and see if this distance matches the distance from the hole in your frame for mounting the brake to the center of the rim's braking surface.
I'm quite sure it should work (installing SORA) but please check (by measuring or preferably asking your local bike mechanic (which should have the parts so he can easily check compatibility) before buying new brakes.
For more info regarding this please check the part about "Reach" on Sheldon Brown's website: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html
You should know older brakes like the ones you have usually use a bolt which protrudes all the way through the mounting hole with a nut on the other end to secure them to the frame, and modern brake calipers of this type use recessed nuts (they recess into the frame). If you want to use the newer style recessed bolts on your old frame you'll most likely have to drill out the holes to accommodate for the size of the recessed nut (the hole will be bigger than the current hole in the frame). On steel frames (which I think you have) this shouldn't be an issue though, just make sure not to drill it too large. For the front brake you could theoretically swap to a different front fork (which is more modern and does accommodate a modern recessed style mounting system (but if you have no other reason to upgrade the fork this might be silly).

Here is a video on how to install recessed style brakes on an old frame:

Regarding the wheels:
Wheels do not come with cassette/freewheel preinstalled in general. You'll have to make sure you get a wheel with the right system (either a freewheel hub if you want to reuse the old freewheel or install another (new) freewheel) or a free-hub body (for installing a cassette (which is the system used on (almost) all modern bikes)).
Free-hub bodies differ in length so you'll have to check if the one that comes with the wheel-set you buy is compatible with the cassette (amount of gears) you'd like to install. This info (compatible cassette speeds) should be listed with the specs/description of the wheel(set).
If you want to keep 5 speeds in the rear you will have to use a cassette (up to 7 gears you usually see freewheels and from 8 and upwards cassettes are used).
If you decide to upgrade to more gears in the back you will need a more narrow chain (which matches the amount of gears in the back (for example a 10 speed chain for 10 speed cassette). You will also have to replace your shifter (the one that operates the rear derailleur), assuming you don't have an index-less aka friction shifter (these can be used for all speeds as long as their range is sufficient (maximum cable movement that can be achieved with the shifter when moving it from max to min (or reverse direction) position).
Many people will say you'll also have to replace your rear derailleur but I've had much success using the same derailleur on many different gear setups. You do have to make sure the derailleur cage is long enough to handle the change in chain length when going from the smallest to biggest gear in the back (some mtb cassettes have a really big range meaning a small smallest gear and really big largest gear).
In summary: (regarding wheels)

You can replace the wheel with a wheel which accommodates either a cassette or freewheel, new wheels will almost always have cassette interface (aka free-hub body).

Usually cassettes start at 8 speed, going all the way up to 12 speed (but up to 11 is much cheaper, 12 is very rare).

When installing a new cassette or freewheel a new chain is recommended (since using old chain on new cassette/freewheel can/will cause faster wear or chain skipping teeth and such issues). Make sure the new chain matches the amount of gears on the cassette/freewheel.

Also upgrade rear derailleur if it can't handle the range (doesn't have enough capacity (measured in number of teeth difference) to accommodate the new freewheel/cassette (if it has a significantly broader range than the original freewheel).
Sometimes a derailleur's limit screws won't allow for enough adjustment to get the same derailleur properly adjusted on a different cassette/freewheel but you can oftentimes simply install longer adjustment bolts to fix this issue (remove old ones, find longer versions with same thread and install).

If you have or would like to use indexed shifters and you change to a different number of gears in the back you'll have to upgrade your shifter to an indexed variant with the correct number of gears (/clicks), you could alternatively install a non-indexed friction type shifter (which should in my experience work with any speed as long as the cable movement range is sufficient (as a fore mentioned))

if you would like to keep using a freewheel (you could for example buy a second hand wheel-set with a freewheel hub) you could upgrade to 7 gears in the back if you would like, this should be as simple as removing the (if installed) old freewheel and screwing on the new (7 speed for example) freewheel. You will need sufficient


This is why you do the research before buying (and why wheels get stolen).

If you really want to use the 7-speed wheel, you can leave out one cog from the cassette and use derailleur limit screws to prevent it from shifting outside the cassette.


I can see your idea, though I'm not sure a quick release style chaintug would work. Although I think I can see how it could be made possible. Hopefully I've explained it well enough!
With a standard 'nutted' chaintug (A), distance 'x' is infinitely adjustable as the the brace ('1') moves fore/aft along the threaded rod ('2'), distance 'y'.
With a 'QR' chaintug (B), distance 'x' when tensioned is fixed. The only slight movement here would be when the QR lever is in the open position. For it to work, I guess '2' would have to be threaded through the centre of the QR lever '3'. In doing so, the lever itself would need a cut-out for the threaded rod to pass through when you open up the lever.
So I guess in theory this, or something similar, should be feasible. Whether or not it would be worth the effort I don't know! I use the same tyres (Panaracer RiBMo's) all year on my fixie without chaintugs so I don't have to worry about changing wheels/tyres etc!
Anyway, what's your thoughts guys!?
EDIT
If you just want to be sure you've accurately aligned your rear wheel in the drop out, then an increment etching along the dropouts would be easier.

Turns out someone else already done this..bugger!


I would urge you to check online, and order a replacement from WeeRide. Parts like this are hardened more than standard hardware grade steel.

If this was a reflector screw, then I'd say grab anything from the local hardware store. However, in this case there's a lot more at stake and you don't wanna cut corners.

I have no experience with WeeRide, but I have gotten replacement parts from other companies sent to me, free of charge, when I inquired online.

http://www.weeride.com/Kangaroo-Center-Mounted-Child-Bicycle-Carrier


Chainrings meant for a derailleur setup are designed to facilitate the chain's movement from ring to ring.
The derailleur itself keeps the chain from going too far.
Conversely, 1x-specific chainrings are designed with chain retention as a top priority.
If you're not keen to replace the crankset and chainrings, I would get a retention device of some sort.
There are very simple & lightweight "dogtooth" chain keepers that prevent the rings from falling towards the frame.
In the off-road cycling world, which is approaching universal adoption of 1x drivetrains in new bikes, there are chain keepers that essentially look like little tiny derailleurs.
One of those would be your next try if a dogtooth keeper doesn't cut it.
However, fitting one of these with a double crankset in play may prove tricky (I have not tried it).


Tubeless tire looses air through weld of rim

If you've only done 100 km on it, its under warranty so take it back.

Sealant may fix it for now, but a weld shouldn't leak air, so its a weak spot on the rim.


There are 2 types of repair stands. The bottom bracket version you pictured is compact, stable, and travels well. It is a good stand if you are using it occasionally for your own maintenance. Downside: You can only work on one end of the bike at a time. That makes it slow, and awkward for mechanics doing volume of work, or if you want to just quickly throw your bike in a stand for a gear check.

The seat post mounted stands are larger (generally, sometimes, but not always less stable, but far quicker and easier to use. Downsides depend on the model, but generally: Less stability, and more difficulty working on an aero bike due to frame and seat post shapes not fitting in the clamp.

Aero bikes are where the BB mounted stands excel, and are the primary and most useful quality that they have and why we have 2 in our workshop. If your frame doesn't work in a seat post clamp based stand, they are your best option. FWIW, I've used the Park PRS-20 and 21, and the Tacx Spider Team. The Tacx is more stable but a far larger footprint. The park has better UX design, more user friendly position swaps, and things like that.

I hope that helps.


As for your alloy question, yes. The alloy specification itself is just the grade of aluminum used. Similar to the way you would find the type of steel used to make a knife or similar things like that.

As for what type of spray paint to use, I would recommend a Rustolium metal paint. Go to your local hardware store/paint store and ask them for a specific recommendation as far as aesthetic properties of the paint, but the brand itself is particularly tough and holds up well in different weathers, as well as different levels of abuse.

Just a quick personal tip; with any paint job, the preparation is always more important, and a bit more time consuming, than the actual painting of the item. Be sure to sand, buff, and clean your frame the best you possibly can. Adding new paint on top of old will ultimately look pretty bad, and your paint will most likely start to chip. Painting on top of dirt, old paint, or cracks may result in a lazy looking paint job.

So, in short, sand it down, clean it up, make sure it's dry, and go to town!


Tektro HD-R210 bleed port adapter identification

It's possible someone might randomly know, but for the most part that's not how this game works.
Bleed fitting typology on random OEM type hydros is chaos. There are no resources. It's not all the same within brands. It's figured out by having a variety of options when you crack it open.
When you take out the bleed screw, look at the diameter, pitch, threaded length, presence or absence of an o-ring, and shoulder profile. All you're trying to do is find a fitting that's a match. Usually in a nice completist set like this, something is going to match exactly. Assuming you're doing a two-syringe bleed, where you skloosh the fluid back and forth until no more bubbles come out, you'll do the same for the lever end. (This method works best for most Tektro brakes in my experience despite how their basic consumer bleed kit only comes with one syringe.)
Some Tektro caliper fittings don't have an o-ring and may not seal right if the syringe fitting you attempt to use has an o-ring. So if you run into sealing problems, remember you can take the o-ring off a fitting you have to create a match.
If by some chance you open a bleed port and find you don't have a match, it's true that's not ideal and it's theoretically possible to introduce air and find yourself in worse shape then when you started, but in practical terms the other end being sealed is going to keep the bulk of the fluid in, so all you're likely to lose is some droplets right at the opening. You can carefully drip a little oil back in and seal it up and there shouldn't be much change if any.
Take heart that the ironic thing about bleeding Tektros is that despite lack of clear written procedure, it almost always works out fine if you just do it. Over the years I've come to postulate that that's why the written procedures are so bad; they seem like an afterthought because they probably are.


With these shoes you probably use Shimano's SPD-pedals or similar MTB pedals. Most, if not all of these do have some angular float of the heel when the clip is engaged. It is part of the system. I'd worry if there's no float.
As with the pain on your left foot it could be caused by the position of the foot on the pedal. Ideally the axle of the pedal would be under the ball of the big toe. You might experiment here by moving the cleat fore or aft. Go for a ride, take along an Allen key and experiment settings.


Shimano Sora 3400 shifters with Shimano Alivio M430 rear derailleur?

Yes, with 9-speed this sort of combination works because Shimano mountain and road rear derailleur actuation was the same until mountain 10 came out.


Current 105/Ultegra/Dura-ace are more than 9 speed, so you can't use them. Plus, the old 105 or tiagra 9 speed shifters you'll get are probably the same as the current Sora shifters anyway, due to trickle down technology (just with tiny modifications and a price premium).

So, in short, if you're sticking with 9 speed, don't bother -- you'll just pay more for a different sticker on the shifters.


Issue replacing Avid BB7 disc brake pads

If only one brake pad rubs and there is a gap between the rotor and the other pad, then your brake isn't centered well. To fix it:

Use an allen key to loosen the caliper so that you can slide it around but it is still attached.
Pull the brake lever. This way, the brake goes into a position centered around the disc.
While still holding the lever, secure the brake again.
Release the brake lever and find out that your brake doesn't rub any more!


Removing rear hub end caps (Mavic Allroad Pro)

Unfortunately you have to use force to get those guys off.

If you can wrap the cap with a rag and then grip it with a pair of pliers you should be able to pull it straight off. It will take some effort.


Why is low sprocket minimum 28t for a Shimano 105-GS?

The key aspect of the GS cage is the length of the cage. The other key aspect of   derailleurs is the geometry of the parallelogram.

Because the design has been adapted to suit more modern gearing with larger max sprockets, it moves downwards at a steeper angle, with room to accommodate the larger cogs. Therefore if a tighter range cassette is fitted, the guide pulley is now further away from the largest cassette than older GS derailleurs on the same cassette.

This is going to reduce the accuracy of the shifting a little if you can't move the guide pulley up enough using the b-tension screw. In practice of course, Shimano are famously conservative and breaching the spec might not give any issues. The 12-28 cassette is guaranteed to work, the 12-25 is not.


Hey my right gripshift won't turn, need help

Sounds like the gripshift itself is broken.
The usual process to diagnose jammed shifter or derailleur problems is to disconnect the cable at the derailleur, check the derailleur will move through it's full range, then tension the cable and work the shifter to make sure it pulls in and pays out cable.
If the cable is loose but the shifter will not move something must be jammed in the shifter itself. Try disconnecting the cable at the derailleur and pulling it out of the shifter. The head of the cable might have come off and has gotten stuck in the shifter.
If you can't get the shifter to move with the cable pulled out replacing it is probably the only option.


What affordable rear brake can I get with nut/bolt rather than Allen Key?

Brake calipers designed for recessed nuts on the fork crown will typically have enough exposed thread to function as an externally-nutted bolt when used through the rear brake bridge.  Get any recessed-bolt front brake and use your nutted hardware with it.


Enhancing brake force with steel rims in wet conditions?

Here you go:

these are leather face brake blocks and they will work ten times better in the wet than any Johnny-come-lately Kool-Stop efforts on your steel rims. Pay no more than £3 a set, plus they last forever, and better when wet than when dry. What more could you want?


Mixed pair of sintered and organic brake pads for disk brakes

Mismatched pads means mismatched braking forces. For the same amount of pressure applied to the rotor (which is how calipers work) one pad will apply more braking force. That will try to twist the caliper. Probably not enough to matter, but it would be annoying to find out that it did  - the caliper would twist, either breaking off the bike or damaging the rotor. I think the former is extremely unlikely.

The other effect is that you'll get differential heating. The more effective pad will generate more heat, and heat up one side of the rotor more than the other. Since rotors are thin this will be a small effect, but since they're thin it doesn't take much work to warp the rotor. This is actually fairly likely IMO, and it's something I'd watch carefully for while testing the setup before committing to it.

I'm not sure you'd get a lot of benefit except in extreme conditions. My experience of disk brakes over the last 15 years) is that I can tell the difference between cheap cable disk brakes and expensive hydraulic ones, but other than that they're pretty much of a muchness.

This will be even more true on a road bike where you don't have as much traction as a bike with wider tyres and more tread. You might actually be better off with "less effective" pads because you'll get better modulation.


Googling 'Shimano CS-6800 cassette' should convince you that Ultegra 6800 cassette are still available, even though that groupset has been superseded by R8000.

Any suitably high-end and light 11 speed Shimano compatible (i.e. Shimano and SRAM) cassette that you can find in you desired spread of sprockets will work.

You will need to check that your rear derailleur has the required total capacity (difference in teeth in the cassette + difference in teeth between chainrings), and can handle a 32 tooth large sprocket. If not you will need to swap the derailleur for a compatible one with a longer cage.


I can't see anything wrong at all.

The any vibration you may feel when the rear wheels is spinning but the cranks and chain and cassette are not moving is due to the clicking of the pawls in the free-hub.

I think if you hold a pedal and spin the cranks so the rear wheel turns you will not detect any vibration or 'shaking', as the free-hub will engage.

I think if you ride the bike you will find it functions normally.


Are handlebar-mounted child seats illegal in Germany?

Front-mounted child seats are not illegal in Germany but face stronger restrictions than seats mounted in the back. Good sources and discussions (in German):

http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo_2013/__21.html (the law)
https://www.verkehrswacht-medien-service.de/kindersitze_fahrrad.html (good overview from a reliable source)

You need to consider in addition what kind of seats are adequate as covered by norms which provide the restrictions I alluded to:

http://www.kinder-fahrrad-sitz.de/stvo-ece-r44-din-en14344-praktischerklaert/
http://www.bike-eu.com/laws-regulations/artikel/2010/8/en-14344-european-standard-for-childs-seats-for-bicycles-1018845 (good explanation in English)

The EN 14344 norm is electronically available and covers every detail imaginable. It says in particular about front seats:

  8.3 Additional requirements for front seats Front seats shall have at least one attachment point to the cycle, which shall not be the
  handlebar or the extension of the handlebar stem.


Any Issues installing STI Brake/Shifter levers to bike with direct-pull V-Cantilever brakes?

Standard V brakes do not work well with STI levers, they don't pull enough cable to allow the V brake to be setup properly; you end up with the pads so close to the rim that they are always rubbing on it or needing to be adjusted and the braking can also be poor.

I know of 2 options to get around this, you get a V brake Travel Adjuster or Travel Agent - essentially a pulley that increases the amount of cable that is pulled by the STI shifter or you get some 'Mini V Brakes' as these have a shorter arm and so work with the STI shifters.


How to improve front brake functionality?

It sounds like the cable's slipping after you adjust it.

Precisely how you adjust the cable depends on the brake design, and normally you would not shorten the straddle cable, since it needs to be a certain length for optimum operation.  However, with many newer bikes the main cable makes up half the straddle cable, with a spacer to maintain the proper straddle length.

Sheldon Brown has an article on cantilever adjustment, though it's a little short on actual adjustment operations.  Park Tool's article, on the other hand, almost goes into too much detail.


How can rear derailleur work the opposite way it's supposed to?

There exist now rare Shimano Rapid Rise shifters, which have the opposite direction of action. Please check if the words "Rapid Rise" are anywhere to be found on the derailleur/shifter. Or at least knowing its model number, or having a picture should resolve the uncertainty.


Which states or countries have stop-sign-as-yield laws for bicyclists (Idaho stop law)?

Utah also considered it, but several groups including a large group of experienced bicycle commuters opposed the change.  The main reasons are:

It further designates cyclists as a "different" road user, possibly making it easier to limit our access to the roadway.
It has the potential of increasing the conflicts at intersections (the most dangerous area for cyclists) because cyclists can behave differently than other vehicles, and motorists may not know what to expect.

While I like maintaining momentum, and recognize that I can see farther, sooner than motorists, I believe that being predictable is more important.


What should I consider when buying a respirator?

You have a few options. One that has been marketed to cyclists has been  the totobo mask which is from what I gather a re-usable N95 mask (although uncertified by any agency) with replaceable filter peices.  It's cheap to try, at only $25 or so.

The Respro is another option.  It seems like a bit more  customizable, and looks like the neoprene would compress the mask against your face a bit better than the totobo, but it's probably really hot in the summer. These run about $60-$75 for a mask.

Here's a forum link which has a bit of a personal comparison from a few cyclists who use these masks in bangalore.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/bangalore-bikers/w2vgTWlsOH4/3KSlS0jOj0kJ


Different Gear Type when there's no Front Derailleur?

Yes, there is a difference between front chainrings for derailleur equipped bikes compared to bikes without a derailleur.

A derailleur suitable chainring is designed to assist the chain climbing onto the chainring, via ramps and pins that the chain engages into.

Non-derailleur chainrings are much simpler and are just the straight teeth.

To solve your problem, you could:

Check your chainring and potentially replace it with a single speed chainring
Get a chain keeper like this one
Or both!

More information is on these questions:

Mysterious case: chain falling off large chainring
Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring?


Sprocket touching the biggest cog no matter B screw...how do I fix?

Both the TY-300 and TY-500 are rated for a large/low sprocket of 28T to 34T so they are both within spec.   There are no other variants, only the -SGS long cage is available.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY300-SGS.html

https://bike.shimano.com/en-AU/product/component/tourney/RD-TY500-SGS.html

I'd strongly suggest checking the the hanger alignment before spending more money on replacement parts.

You need a bolt that fits the hanger (possibly salvage this from your old destroyed unit) and a longish flat rigid bar, and something to measure down to the rim.

The measurement of the offset to the rim needs to be as accurate as you can, but within 10mm at the rim should be adequate.

The other option is that your B screw is damaged, bent, not pushing hard enough, or the stop is broken/damaged/missing.  A clear and well-lit photo of your frame and hanger would help show if this is the problem.


How much resistance comes from each part of a bicycle?

Answer: This question cannot be answered in a simple tabular format because the resistance of every part depends on every other part.

IE, a wheel and tyre and spokes will have an effective "cross section" which is the hole it has to punch through the air.

That area is mitigated by the shape's curves.  From wikipedia:

So for simple shapes in isolation, the drag coefficient is known, and you can measure the cross sectional area in square metres.

Your problem is that a bicycle is not a sphere or anything simple - its a complex series of parts and they're hitting the air at different delays.  So when the air hits your downtube, its already been distrupted by the front wheel, forks, and headtube, as well as being in close proximity to your shin which is a periodic displacement of air.

To approach what you're asking - you'll need either to buy time in a wind tunnel, or fit a power meter on your bike and measure your times.

Doing this with scientific rigour means

doing each run at least 3 times
riding to a set power that you personally can maintain for the whole distance - no more and no less.
riding a distance of at least 30 minutes
having a route with no chance of stopping at traffic lights or similar
in an environment with consistent winds/temperatures/humidity across all your trials
and having a way of measuring your time as accurately as possible between a well defined start and stop point.

Then swap the one part you're testing for the other part, and repeat the three runs.

The difference in time will show you how much power you've saved/lost with the one variance.    If you want to test 5 types of pedals, that's 15 runs.

A circular route will help too, if you can find one that works for all the above requirements.

Ideally your rider would not know which parts are being tested on each run, so they can not be swayed to push harder or softer subconsciously.

One might reasonably assume that Manufacturers would release this kind of data, especially for their high-end items.   And they do with statements like "saves 17 seconds in a 40 km time trial, over last year's model."  Which is relatively useless as a comparison.

tl:dr - there's too much interdependence to make a simple table that is also accurate.


The first thing you need to know is it is almost always cheaper, faster and less work to buy an assembled bike than build it from parts. I have done it successfully, but it takes time, lots of time. Over a year in one case, because I was trying to get the lowest prices I could find. The time was spent looking for deals on certain components then researching if they were compatible with the frame and the other parts I purchased already. If you aren't wrenching on bikes already you will need several hundred dollars in tools. Some of the tools are specialized and have one purpose so unless you build another bike may never be used again.


Sequence for a complete road bike overhaul

I have two overhaul checklist links that are great. One of the checklists I modified for personal use and have included.

The first is from United Bicycle Institute (checklist PDF link) - UBI is one of the premier US bike mechanics schools.

The one below I modified from the A Convenient Cycle blog (the blog is now dead...) and is what I use in my personal shop.

Wheel Systems:
[ ] Front Hub bearings greased.
[ ] Front Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Rear Hub bearings greased.
[ ] Rear Hub bearings adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] All hubs locknuts secured.
[ ] Hubs inspected for bent axles and external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Rims trued laterally to .5mm tolerance or better.
[ ] Rims inspected for damaged or other work needed.
[ ] Tires checked for proper wear and damage, proper mounting, and inflation.
[ ] Wheels mounted in proper alignment and secure.

Drive Train System:
[ ] Bottom Bracket greased
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket fixed cup secured.
[ ] Bottom Bracket adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Bottom Bracket inspected for external evidence of internal problems.
[ ] Crank arms securely mounted.
[ ] Chainrings bolts secured.
[ ] Wobbling chainrings aligned.
[ ] Pedals lubricated
[ ] Pedals securely mounted.
[ ] Chain cleaned
[ ] Chain lubed and whipped down
[ ] Chain inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel cleaned and rinsed
[ ] Freewheel inspected for wear
[ ] Freewheel lubricated.

Brake System:
[ ] Cables lubricated and replaced if worn.
[ ] Front Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Rear Braking surface cleaned and checked for ware.
[ ] Brake calipers checked for mounting security.
[ ] Caliper arms and pivot/mounting bolts checked for damage.
[ ] Adjustable brake pivots adjusted for no play or binding.
[ ] Pivot nut/bolts checked for secure.
[ ] Brake caliper lubricated at pivots, springs, and cable adjuster barrels.
[ ] Brake barrels adjusters reseted.
[ ] Brake pads checked for wear and replaced if more than 50% worn.
[ ] Brake pad height set so as not to rub tire or hit partially below rim.
[ ] Pads set tangent [parallel] to rim.
[ ] New pads set with .5mm to 1.5mm toe to reduce squeal.
[ ] Pads clearance set to 1mm -2mm per side [except MTB type].
[ ] MTB pad clearance set so that when the pads contact the rim the lever clears the handlebar by a minimum of 1 inch.
[ ] Brake levers set to proper alignment and secure.
[ ] Brake level pivots, cable anchor pivots, and cable adjusters lubricated.
[ ] Cable removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wire and housing.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps where fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings.
[ ] Cable system stress tested by pulling brake lever fully to handlebar a minimum of ten times.
[ ] Cable end finished with cap or soldering.
[ ] Rims cleaned of lubricants and road grime.

Shift Systems:
[ ] Cables lubed and replaced if necessary
[ ] Rear derailleur removed and hanger checked for proper alignment.
[ ] Rear derailleur pivots, cable adjusters, and jockey wheels lubricated.
[ ] Rear derailleur inspected for damage and worn jockey wheels.
[ ] Rear derailleur mounted securely.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper mounting height and rotation.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for proper secure mounting.
[ ] Front derailleur pivots lubricated.
[ ] Derailleur cables removed and inspected for rust, frays, and kinks in the inner wires and housings.
[ ] Housings sized to proper length and ends finished with filing and end caps wherever they improve fit.
[ ] Cables lubricated wherever they pass through housings when appropriate.
[ ] Cables pre-stressed.
[ ] Chain length checked.
[ ] Rear derailleur limit screws set to allow shift to largest and smallest sprockets.
[ ] Rear derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.
[ ] Front derailleur limit screws set for minimum clearance of the derailleur cage to the chain in high and low gear.
[ ] Front derailleur checked for over shift at all gear combinations.

Steering System:
[ ] Headset lubricated.
[ ] Headset adjusted to not be tight or loose.
[ ] Headset locknut secured.
[ ] Headset inspected for external evidence of damage, wear, or loose cups.
[ ] Fork inspected for damage.
[ ] Stem inspected for proper depth insertion, alignment, and secure.
[ ] Handlebars inspected for damage, proper alignment, and secure.

Miscellaneous:
[ ] Frame checked for damage.
[ ] Seat post checked for allowable minimum depth of insertion.
[ ] Seat post secure mounting checked.
[ ] Seat checked for proper alignment and secure mounting.
[ ] Accessories checked for mounting security and interference with moving parts or safety hazards.

Test Ride:
[ ] Brakes checked for stopping power and squeal.
[ ] Bicycle checked for tracking problems.
[ ] Derailleurs checked for performance and over shift.
[ ] Chain and freewheel cogs checked for skipping under load.
[ ] Bicycle checked for unusual noises.


Do I need to buy a special stand for my front wheel when using my turbo trainer?

A nice advantage of the specialized stand is that it will keep your front wheel pointed front. So you won't have to expend energy keeping it that way. A brick or telephone directory (or anything that's just level and the right height) won't do that.

A piece of wooden plank will, after you hack away at it with an axe a few times right in the middle. If you're looking to save $20 it's the perfect solution.


It does not look to me like the cords are damaged, which means the tire will still have its strength to hold the air pressure of the tube.

You have three easy options. Personally I would take the last:

Ignore it. It will probably last until the tire has no tread left. The cut itself will bulge a little, so this will be the point of failure of the tire. The bump may cause the tire to make noise of vibration as you ride- If you notice this the tire has little life left, or may quietly wear down till with the rest of the tire.
Put a sleeve in. Get a piece of tough material like canvas (the side wall of an old MTB tire is great), insert it under the cut. This will provide a stronger area around the cut and prevent the weakness causing further problems and extend the life a little more as it will reduce the size of the bulge caused by the cut. Its a technique used as a temporary repair for tires to get you home, and works for tires with significant cuts (I have seen it used successfully on a MTB ride for a tire with a 2-3cm full thickness cut.)  As we all know, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
Replace the tire. A shredded tire on the road is really a pain. Unlike a puncture, which is generally repairable, the only fix is a new tire - do you carry a spare tire? Although I always carry a tube and repair kit, I only carry a spare tire for very long rides (and usually just one in our group will carry a spare). If I have a spare tire in good nick, why would I leave a dodgy tire on the bike?


Adding a larger chain-set to a mountain bike

Another option - change out your cassette to one with an 11-tooth smallest cog.
Per Sheldon Brown's gear calculator, pedaling at 100 rpm on a 42-tooth chainring and a 12-tooth cassette cog results in a speed of 28 mph.  Going to a cassette with an 11-tooth small cog, at 100 rpm that's 31 mph.  Getting up to 120 rpm results in a 37 mph speed.
And 37 mph on level ground is really fast on a bicycle - as in "speed reached in the final sprints in Tour de France stages" fast. 30 mph on a bicycle is fast, too.  If you're not struggling to reach 30 mph on a bicycle on flat ground, you should be riding in the Tour de France.  An average-size rider has to sustain a power output of 400 watts or so to go 30 mph - while riding an aerodynamic time-trial bike.  Sustained power output from cyclists who have never raced rarely exceeds 150 watts.
40 mph on level ground while riding a mountain bike with 26" wheels?  You would have had to have a 48-tooth chainring and and 11-tooth cog and be riding at 120 rpm to do that.
So if you hit 40 mph on that old 26" MTB, you should be able to hit almost that fast with your 42-tooth chainring on your 29er just because of the larger wheels - as long as you have a cassette with an 11-tooth small cog.
But at the end of the day, bigger gears do not make you faster.  The speed you can sustain depends mostly on how much power your body can generate.  The biggest limiter after that is how aerodynamic you and your bike are.


Is there an online bike map for the Grand Rounds bike trail in Minnesota?

You can get a printed map from

Minneapolis Parks & Recreation Board office:
2117 West River Road

Or, you can call 612-230-6400 or email info@minneapolisparks.org and they’ll send you one.

http://wwwdocs.minneapolismn.gov/bike/index.html  shows all the bike stuff might be overly detailed.

Apparently its well signposted with maps on the way.

They're not small maps!

According to this photo blog  its well marked


Dual shift levers, old bike and indexed gears

Most likely your Tiagra brifters (brakes+shifters) are 8 to 10 speed depending on their age, so the cable pull is different to a five speed cassette and probably pre-dates hyperglide.

So count the number of clicks on the right brifter, and add one.  That's the gear count you need to match.  On the left side brifter you want a double, so just one click, or two if the bike has a triple.  More on this later.

You will need a replacement back wheel, cassette, and chain.  All that needs to match the gear count of the right brifter.  The OLD of the rear wheel will have to be the same or very close to the OLD of the existing wheel.  But its a steel frame so can take a small amount of cold-setting, if you make the rear dropouts parallel again afterward.

You might need a new rear derailleur, because the cassette may have a larger large and smaller small cog than the original.

You are unlikely to need replacement chainrings assuming the wear is good.  The front derailleur mech should be okay but may need to have the cage narrowed for the thinner chain.

You can do this.

I have a 1981 Raleigh Arena with 3x9 speed Shimano 105 groupset on it.  I changed the wheels and the entire transmission.  As a result of going from 27" to 700c wheels, the brake calipers didn't reach so I had to replace them with long-reach ones.  The bike now looks like this:

EDIT Another possible issue with your front chainrings is that the cable pull on the LEFT brifter might not match the inter-chainring gap.  As a somewhat halfway solution, you can leave the left downtube shifter running the front mech while connecting the right brifter to the rear mech.  Downside here is changing chainring means a downtube friction shift, but trimming this shift is easier.  Friction shifting makes a lot of things easier.

Any questions please ask.


How can I adapt a mountain bike for a one or two week tour?

Mountain bikes have been pressed into service as touring machines for a long time. Old hardtail mountain bikes make great, bristly touring machines, and they're fun to ride.

Tires

The first thing you'll want to look at are the tires. Most mountain bikes come with knobby tires for riding on dirt and gravel. A set of slicks or semi-slick tires will decrease rolling resistance. Tires with tread on the sides are also good for this.

Carrying stuff

Racks: A sturdy rear rack and a front rack are the best way to go for long-term use. Be aware that a suspension fork can make fitting a front rack difficult, but there are racks made to accomodate this. (Old Man Mountain racks are amazingly sturdy and work with suspension forks, but they're not cheap or light.) Rear racks are only a problem if you have a full-suspension bike.

You may be tempted to put only a rear rack on the bike. This will still allow you to carry a good amount of cargo, but the shorter wheelbase of a mountain bike (compared to a proper touring or cyclocross bike) will encourage wheelies while climbing hills with a load, so be careful.

If your bike doesn't have the fittings for racks, hose clamps are a handy way to get around that.

It may be easier to buy or borrow a trailer for touring. You can get a cargo trailer, or find a kid/pet trailer and convert it. These can often be found at yard sales or on craigslist inexpensively. A trailer also means you can skip buying panniers.

Handlebars

You may find the flat bars of a mountain bike onerous while riding for hours and hours. A pair of barends will help here. I recommend the large, curved kind that allow you to sit more upright.

Other stuff

For a single trip, this would be overkill, but if you decide to do more touring on this bike, look into getting a decent touring saddle that you can sit on for hours on end, or even a Brooks.

Getting fenders for a single trip is, similarly, probably not needed, and many mountain bikes would be tricky to fit them on. But there are partial fenders you can mount on your downtube that might help. (Or you could make one out of cardboard and zip ties, it'd probably last you the weekend and then some.)

I toured several times using an old mountain bike; here it is, with Tubus racks and four panniers and a camping roll:

Double-check your brakes before heading out; enough stopping power to bring you and the bike to a halt might not be enough when you add on the weight of camping gear and clothing and a beat-up guitar for the campfire.

Mountain bike tourers aren't quite as comfortable as dedicated touring bikes, but the fun of being able to hop onto the dirt outweighs that. You may be a little slower than a touring bike, but even with your slick tires, you'll smoke those guys on gravel trails. Have fun!


Keeping cables free of dirt when in transporting

I'm assuming that you're putting the bike on a bike rack on a car or something. Note that different racks and cars can give different amounts of dirt accumulation; for example, the roof of a Chevy Suburban would probably be cleaner than on the back of a Mazda Miata.

One solution is to just let it get dirty and then clean it off when you get to your destination.

Another is to wrap the bicycle parts in something like trash bags taped tightly to the bike, leaving the parts necessary to grip onto the rack exposed.

Yet another solution is to put the bike in the car or trailer or something. I can get a 58 cm road bike in my hatchback pretty easily provided I don't need to have someone in the back seat.


Yes, it's possible to measure calories burned. To do so accurately you need some sort of power measurement device.

More accurate and more portable are the mechanical systems that attach to your bike - PowerTap is one example. These measure torque and speed at some point and work out power from that, often with corrections for various factors (input vs output power being the most obvious).

Less accurate but possibly more useful to you for training are the systems that attempt to work out the  biological power input. They work by measuring the difference between inhaled and exhaled oxygen or carbon dioxide, and generally use terms like VO2 Max. The apparatus for this is not even vaguely portable, so from those numbers they derive a relationship between your heart rate and your moving average power output (the response is not instantaneous), and on from there to your total energy output.

The cheap systems you see advertised will either measure bicycle speed and from that attempt to guess your power output, or measure your heart rate and guess likewise. Obviously the "what sort of bike do you have" and "what sort of hreat rate response do you have" questions are at best vague approximations to the truth and will vary over time. But the measurements are dramatically cheaper to make so they're consequently more popular.

A few years ago a friend looked at various mechanical systems and decided that PowerTab was the only system that was usefully accurate for him. We did break a couple of the cheap systems while trying to improve their accuracy, but that was acceptable because as sold they were useless to us. The VO2 systems are the definitive training aid because they tell you more than just average power output, and the other outputs are actually more useful than power output. Mechanical systems are the easy, every day measurement that gives you your overall progress, or for us, lets you evaluate the vehicle performance as well (to some extent we don't care whether you are five seconds faster at the same power output because the vehicle is more efficent, it fits you better or you have got stronger, we just care that the combination is more efficient).


The photos I have seen on line indicate this bike lacks a frame mount for the rear brake caliper. The fork also lacks a mount. It will be most likely be cost prohibitive to attempt modifying the frame. You would need road specific disc calipers if you will be using drop bars, a disc wheelset, rotors, and cables as the old ones will likely be too short. If you are unhappy with the stopping ability the money would be better spent on quality brake pads.


I have a 2nd broken spoke after 300km on a new bike, is it the wheel or me?

Not enough points to comment, so here is an answer instead, based mostly on my own experience.

I've been using a bike as my main, if not sole, mean of transportation for the last 20 years or so. During that time, my weight changed a lot (from 80 to 130kgs (176 - 286 lbs)).
When I was 80, I nearly never broke a spoke (maybe once per 10 000km), and only after a big impact.

I began to break spoke significantly more often when I reached 95kgs. But it was very dependent on the bike. On some it never happened, on some other it happend more frequently (once per 3-4000km). On one (very cheap) bike, I even broke 5 spoke in 10 km without any kind of impact on the wheel.

At 130kg today, with a 400€ bike (Trekk 7.1), I broke spoke even more frequently, like once per 1000-1500km. Always on the rear wheel. I changed all the spokes on my rear wheel to more thick ones (I can't recall previous and current diameter though), and since then and 8000km, I didn't break a spoke once.

I spoke about it to 2 repairmen in a bike shop, both said it was just that my weight was too heavy for the bike.

So, to answer tour question, I think it's both you and the wheel. You just have a wheel with too weak spokes for your weight. It can be because of the base quality of the spokes, or because of a bad set up of the spokes tension though.


Touring with kids - tag along and kids trailer behind same bike

Sounds like a bad idea. The biggest concern would be how the setup would act under hard braking, especially when going down an incline. There will a lot of mass to stop which means your stopping distance will be very long. Additionally the trailer and tag-along chain will be unstable under braking and may jack-knife.

Update:

If you are going to try this in a controlled fashion as Criggie suggests in his answer, Make sure your brakes are in good shape and properly adjusted first. Having a pro mechanic at a bike shop inspect and set them up would be a good idea.


A gap in the hole when inserting JIS square BB to a Truvativ Crank

If you have correctly tightened the crank bolt then this normal. The recommended torque spec is 305-390 in lbs. If the crank axle came all the way to the end you would run the risk of the bolt bottoming out before the crank was seated.


What to look for when buying cyclo-cross or road bike under 600eu/650usd?

Cyclocross is a type of bike race, which means that most true cyclocross bikes will be expensive, as they are built to win races. You won't find much for that price range if you buy new. But racers are always looking to go faster and get new gear, so consider getting a used bike. You should be able to find a very good used bike for that price.

Also consider looking at touring bikes. They are built quite similar to cyclocross bikes. Except that they are built at little stronger because they are built to carry more baggage. They also have mounting holes for racks which will come in useful for commuting. Many cyclocross bikes don't have the ability to mount racks because racks aren't used for racing.


Any actual bike mechanic will understand the value in facing/reaming preemptively. Unless it's clearly already been done, visible symptoms don't really count for much here. It is true that it's pretty rare to come across a frame that needs it in the sense that otherwise it can't be a bike with a reasonably adjusted headset.


Find the centre of mass of your bike, which is usually just above the BB+downtube.

There are two strategies for carrying the bike, assuming that the bike does not have any heavy accessories such as pannier rack+bag, which would otherwise alter the centre of mass of the bike:

flat/downstairs: one hand go over the top tube, grab the down tube so that the bike naturally leaning forward. The seat should rest on to your shoulder. Your shoulder carry most of the bike's weight.
upstairs: reverse the bike, one hand on down tube (or chainstay for a very tight stairs) with the (back of the) seat resting on shoulder. Again, your shoulder should carry most of the weight of the bike.

Downstairs/Flat

Upstairs: as Criggie has suggested, carrying on your left (non-drive side to your body) would be cleaner (although my pants are usually black and my bike has a chain guard so I have no problem). I would like to note that if you choose this option, take care not to dirty your sleeve. Holding the seat tube is a little bit awkward, you could try to hold the crank and see if it fits your style. You can also use the other hand, holding the chainstay, to guide/stabilize the bike


Yes. They will be fine. Plenty of people use them in the Minnesota Winters without problems. Just make sure they are always in good shape, which is something you have to do with all brakes.


I have seen people trailer them, but for a local race here, many people go car free and strap them to the top tube extending back behind the seat, usually onto the rack.

Found many images using google image search for "carry skis on bike"
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5471607772_40dc377ed0_o.jpg


Rear derailleur hits spokes when switching to largest sprocket

I guess the derailleur hanger or the bit of frame it connects to must be bent. These can be bent back. Of course Sheldon Brown has some advice, but I'd be afraid to do this myself and instead take it to the LBS who will have the tools.


How strong is a chain link? How about half a chain link?

Chains do withstand all reasonable forces you can put at them. Current chains are bushingless design where the punched side plates have a half-bushing on each side. Not having a press fit bushing but integral bushing-halves, the bushing doesn't weaken the chain and the chain withstands a huge amount of force.
There are people weighing over 150 kg riding bikes standing on the pedals. The first thing that fails for them isn't the chain, it's poorly built wheels.
There are mountain bikers using chainrings as ridiculously small as 20 teeth. This gives more mechanical advantage for the crank chainring system, thus increasing chain loads. Chains don't regularly fail for them.
There are e-bikes that have pedaling assist at the cranks (mid-drive), thus increasing chain loads. Those e-bikes don't require e-bike-specific chains (except sometimes you see e-bike specific components; that's just marketers wanting to sell more expensive stuff -- normal bike components work just fine for e-bikes)
It's the straight upper run of the chain that bears the load. Once the chain turns around the sprocket, the load immediately reduces because the first tooth carries most of the load. The chain links flexing cause chains to wear, but the greatest forces are encountered in the straight upper run.
Thus, I'd say your chain had a manufacturing defect that caused at least one link to be weaker than it's supposed to be and thus caused the chain to fail. This isn't entirely uncommon.


You wanted a barrel end brake cable for straight brake levers.
What was sent to you is a curved or racing lever brake cable with a pear cable end (we called them mushroom).

Cable end terminals (anchors): The steel cables have welded end pieces (see image) that are shaped to fit into slots in shifters or brake levers and because cables are not interchangeable as to their purpose, there are three main types of inner-cable sold. A brake cable has either a barrel-shaped end, for bikes without drop-handlebars, or a pear-shaped end for the racing types with drop-handlebars. Cables for shifters have a button-shaped end. The free end of a cable is usually welded so that the wires cannot fray while the cable is being threaded through its housings. Some cables for brakes have a barrel at one end and a pear-termination at the other so that the user can discard the one that is not needed. These latter types are referred to as universal though the term is also used to describe some products that contain a complete brake or shifting kit that is long enough to fit most bikes.

Wikibooks


Does anyone know of a list of city roads with bad pavement ( NYC )

While New York City is at the moment quite bike-friendly, potholes, cracks, and patched roads are still problems. Unfortunately, there seems to be no single resource for finding smooth roads in the city. The best you can do may be to rely on information from several sources, and use your own experience to decide on how to use the information.

Google Maps Traffic

Google Maps has a layer for traffic, and that shows ongoing road work. For example, this view of Manhattan has icons for road closures due to construction and other maintenance work to bridges and tunnels.

While this won't tell you what areas simply have bad pavement, avoiding these areas will at the least help matters.

NYC Bike Map

The impressive NYC Bike Map will help keep you to areas that are more suitable for cycling. However, from experience, I can tell you that not all of these have suitable pavement for skinny tires. (For example, the East Side Greenway is shown in green, and while it's quite rideable, the surface isn't the best and the path has many corners and even a staircase. At least, this was the case a year or two ago, the last time I rode it.)

The map also exists as a Google Maps/Google Earth layer, although whether it's current or not is another matter.

Conclusion

In summary, riding the roads and learning them well is probably the best way to know where to ride. I suggest using these tools to get some information to guide where you ride until you learn the roads. You can also ask bike clubs and bike shops for further advice.


Change gear on a shimano Schwinn Ranger, not sure what Allen key size to use?

The allen is almost certainly metric.  Both 2.5mm and 3mm are reasonably close to 7/64 inch.  3mm is a very common size on bikes.  If you are going to do any work on a bike you need metric allen wrenches.


Bicycle size is determined first by frame size, which is top tube length, seat tube length, and some more minor geometries like head tube and seat tube angle.  The primary determining factor for comfort on the bike is your reach measurement.

Although it is affected by various factors, like skeletal flexibility and the type of riding you do, ideal reach is generally considered to be the distance from your seating position, (where you actually rest on the saddle), to your hand position, (where your hands fall when placed in a neutral position on the bar), while your back and arms are relaxed and at roughly equal positions approximately 45 degrees each. Balance is what you are looking for here.

The stem length is a portion of the reach measurement.  That is, reach = saddle setback + top tube length + stem length + bar length.

Any of these factors can be altered to some degree to produce a correct reach measurement.  But there are other factors which affect this as well.  If your stem is too short, your steering will be too quick to react, as small movements of you body and hands will move your wheel too far, too fast.  This will make the bike difficult to control.  If you go the other way, with too long a stem, then your bike will handle sluggishly, and you might not be able to react quickly enough to an obstacle in the road.

Based on the measurements that you were given, I would expect that you are approximately 5 foot tall to 5 foot 2 inches.  I think that the shop is likely offering to adapt a bike in their stock to your size, rather than getting you the correct size.  If I am correct about your approximate height, you should be looking for a 47 or 48cm frame which will have between a 65 and 80mm stem on it.  If I am not correct, post your height and riding style, and we can give you more general advice on the correct size.  Best though is to find a shop which specializes in bike fitting, and get a second opinion. I am good at bike fit, but is difficult to accomplish well without having you in my studio.


It isn’t really identifiable, it’s not the original bike that left the factory. The bike has been altered a lot from new, it looks like currently it is a singlespeed, flat bar conversion with front brake only; not legal to ride this on public roads in sensible countries.

The frame is an Orbea brand, can’t see the model name but the carbon rear stays on (I think) alu frame date it by a few years at least. You can look at old models and compare this feature to narrow it down.

It has a double chainset but no front derailleur or chainkeeper. I can’t make out any shifters in the bars. There may be a rear derailleur acting as a chain tensioner, or it is a dedicated tensioner, but there is no cable run to the rear either. So no shifting.

The wheels are Bontrager, a Trek brand. They have a low spoke count and are probably road wheels, so likely have a freehub. Hence saying it’s a singlespeed. You can check by looking at the rear wheel for a freehub.

It has a couple of Shimano parts, look for part numbers on these (like BR6600), they might help to date the bike, but they might not be original.

If it’s fun to ride, enjoy, but it’s a conversion made up from old bike parts so identifying the ‘bike’ is more of a narrative answer. You might have luck browsing through old Orbea models to identify the frame.


The bike appears to be a low cost mass-manufactured bike sometimes termed a bike-shaped-object (BSO).

Identifying features:

rear wheel appears to have single wall steel rim.
stamped steel derailleurs
stamped, riveted chainrings with integral plastic protector
oversized, 'looks cool' frame tubes, mig welds indicate thick wall metal
non-adjustable shock absorber fork
lawyer tabs on front wheel
integral quill stem
low cost grip shifters
all of those reflectors

The front wheel looks like it may be double wall aluminum, it doesn't have the obligatory wheel reflector found on big box store bikes.

Pacific Cycles is a likely source, they make bikes under about 20 nameplates, including Roadmaster, Mongoose, and Schwinn. They also make short lived 'custom' brands; for a while they were offering a GM branded series at Wal-Mart. Finding an exact year and model name may be difficult because components would be shared between different name plates.

It looks like it's been well cared for, and if it's working for your riding habits you shouldn't have any trouble finding spare parts, especially if you've got a community bike shop around. Any big box store bike could be used to scavenge parts to replace those on this one. You could upgrade some components as they fail, but the weight of the frame and some limiting factors like the head tube would prevent you from upgrading it one piece at a time to bike shop components.


Difference between various Campagnolo rear derailleur tension adjustment screws

RD-AT115 has a screw thread pitch of 0.8 mm, the standard size for a 5mm metric thread. The later RD-DA004 and related rear adjusters, including RD-SR014 all have a thread pitch of 0.5 mm, standard size for "M5 fine".

The older, typically 8 and 9s RDs did not need such a fine adjustment to cable tension, simply because the precision required of the system as a whole was not as high and the rear derailleur return spring has, over the years, been gradually reduced in strength - in fact there are two slightly different strengths in use according to the derailleur model and year, and have been since 2002.

This has meant that the pitch of the screw and so the amount of variation in tension per full turn that the screw induces, has needed to be changed.

There are also materials differences that affect the overall price of the derailleur but not the function - so some adjusters are made of a simple Magnesium Zinc Aluminium alloy, others are made in polished stainless steel.


What if both wheels were powered by pedalling?

Many two wheel drive mountain bikes exist. Here's one article advertising a new one:

There’s been no shortage of attempts to build a workable two wheel
drive bicycle over the years, but this latest effort from Double of
Japan looks like one of the most compelling yet.

https://www.bikeradar.com/news/this-is-a-two-wheel-drive-bike-done-right-sort-of/
They do offer better traction in some situations but I've never seen one with a limited slip differential between front and rear, which means they need a freewheel for each wheel to avoid stressing the drivetrain (you really don't want one wheel pushing backwards!). The extra weight and drivetrain complexity is always there but the extra traction is only useful very occasionally.
The other problem chain driven ones have is limited steering range (see the one in the article above). That's not a problem on FWD speedbikes where the steering range is limited by the fairing (often to +/- 5 degrees or so), but for technical mountain biking it's a huge issue. I commonly steer +/- 90 degrees in technical sections, and even on normal trail climbs half that. But getting a +/-45 degree swing out of a universal or CV joint is hard to impossible.
There are also flexible cable drives. Those trade more steering movement for more losses and generally shorter service life (ie, the only one I tried broke, luckily not when I was riding it). With a flexible shaft some wind-up is actually useful, as it gives a bounce in the drive to help you over large bumps. But it's disconcerting when riding and overall burns effort from the rider to counter the wind-up all the time while helping occasionally.
A rigid shaft drive could in theory have a rotating linkage with 180 degrees of steering freedom, but would be quite complex to build. It would also need a telescoping section if there was front suspension, and likely significant gearing to reduce the shaft size (and the torque on the sliding section as well as on the steering).


Bottom Bracket for Trek Crossrip Elite 2014?

The trek archive is a bit light on B.B. detail but mentions an FSA Vero crankset.

Googling FSA Vero shows me images of a square taper which is pretty straightforward and means that the bottom bracket is going to be threaded. Most likely it is 68mm across the B.B. shell, which you should measure.

If it’s 68mm and you’re getting Shimano 105 cranks, just use any Shimano Hollowtech II (or compatible) road bottom bracket, which will have outboard cups for a 24mm spindle.


Should the tightness of the QR skewer (rear wheel) affect the freewheel

You just noticed that quick release tightness affects the bearing preload.
If your hub has cup and cone bearings, you can adjust the bearing preload so that you are able to tighten the QR skewer to maximum tightness without the bearings being too tight. This is one of the advantages of cup and cone bearings and part of the reason why cup and cone bearings are preferable for hubs. Use cone spanners to adjust the bearings. You can measure the required cone spanner size with vernier calipers. Instructions for adjusting the hub bearings.
If your hub has cartridge bearings, there's little you can do. The tightness of these bearings cannot be adjusted.


Can I lace my hub with all inward or outward facing spoke heads?

The answer to "why alternate crossing spokes" is pretty much settled by the subtle suggestions from DanielHRicks and the direct and correct conclusions from the OP, in the very comments below the question.

The two remaining questions would be:

When is it possible to use non-alternating configurations, besides radial spokes?
In case of non-alternating configuration, should the spoke enter the flange holes inwards or outwards.

(I am, on purpose, not including the already much discussed pros and cons of using crossing vs radial.)

The first question is: there is also the SPIRAL configuration, shown in the picture below taken from the front wheel of my fixie:

(note the missing spoke at 2 o'clock...)

This spiral configuration is achieved when the spokes you have are too long for a radial lacing. Then you twist enough that they can fit. This is not so good, because it creates torsion in the hub's body, but I've seen that (and ridden that) a lot, and nothing terrible happened so far. Of course, it could not be safely used with disk brakes.

Now the good part: should the spoke run inwards (like the photo you posted and the photo I posted) or outwards? My answer would be: OUTWARDS, ALWAYS! I know that is pretty to see all those tiny spoke heads neatly arranged one beside the other in a pearl-collar-like pattern, BUT:

Outwards running spokes give a wider leverage to resist lateral forces. That means the same lateral force on the rim would cause a smaller variation in spoke tension.
It is a bit easier to insert spokes that run outwards (although in radial lacing it is not so important).
Most importantly: spokes running outwards touch the flange as they run to the rim, just above the elbow. That means the elbow is isolated from most of the flexion they would suffer whith the successive loading and unloading caused by wheel roll. This decreases fatigue significantly, hugely increasing the lifetime of the wheel.

So, the answer is your second option: All Outward (heads facing inward) Radial Lacing, UNLESS (!!!):

You use a hub for which the manufacturer forbids the use of radial lacing (most of them). Radial lacing might theoretically cause too much stress on the hub flange, since the force is applied in a direction where there is the least amount of material to resist the pull.
You use disk brakes (from previous answers, I think you're going to use those multi-mechano-power U-Brakes, so no problem).

(just for the record, the wheel in the photo I posted is opposite to what I am advising. That is because I already bought it that way. And I think the missing spoke - broke yesterday - has to do with this lame inward-running pattern.)

Hope this helps!


OP's answer-as-a-comment:

  I found out it is the Killing Machine by Solid Bikes. Not sure what year yet, but early 2000's


I'm not sure there's a best type for cycling, but the latter two examples have their pros and cons and I think you pretty much nailed them.

The last type you posted is going to give you a good snug fit but without the noise isolation of the in ear type (2nd example) which isn't great for listening to music given the wind noise, but for safety reasons is preferable. So if you're riding on public roads and safety is your primary concern, go with the earbud style with the around the ear clip (last example). If you're more concerned about blocking out wind noise and listening to your music the in ear (second example) is the way to go.


automotive lubricants (ATF, manual trans fluid, or heavy motor oil) as bike chain lube?

In my experience, the objective of a good chain lub for a bike is to maximize lubrication time while minimizing dirt attraction.

That happens for three reasons:

The chain is totally exposed in a performance bike. You have dirt coming from the ground, the wheels, the air...
You legs are surprisingly close to the chain, and may rub it quite easily.
The situation where your chain snaps from the crankset and you may have to reinsert it manually in the crank teeth is not quite rare.

That is why there are a great variety of chain lubs. You can go from minimum dirt attraction (wax) to the maximum (wet).

I would say that if you are perfectly happy with a wet lub, a switch to an ATF one would not pose a big problem. What you do not want to you use are solvents, most notably WD-40, they do not act as a lube long enough.

Do not use thicker oils, as standard engine oil: they will render your chain a mess in not so long and they won't penetrate deep enough in the links.

On the other hand, if you want to minimize dirt attraction, something I prefer personally, I would use a bike chain specific dry lube or wax.

As a bottom line, you know that a 120mL bottle lasts like forever? You have to apply only one drop per link, meaning only 0.05mL per link.


As abdnChap says rotating the stem around the steerer tube can be accomplished by loosening the stem bolts.
However, you may need to re-adjust the headset bearing pre-load if you loosen the stem bolts, and the pre-load may not have been set properly when the bike was assembled.
To pre-load the bearings the bolt in the top-cap is tightened to pull the fork upwards slightly before the stem bolts are fully tightened. There should be no play of the fork or bars in the head tube, but the bars should turn freely. You can check for play by applying the front brake, holding the bars and rocking the bike backwards and forwards.
This Park Tool video shows how to install a stem and includes alignment and setting bearing pre-load. The pre-load adjustment procedure starts at about this point.


Acera is considered to be the entry level MTB groupset. It will be fine off road riding within limitations.

More expensive group sets tend to be lighter weight, with more refinement - things like bearings in stead of bushing, seals to keep dirt out etc. As such the more expensive groupsets are more durable (to a point where the race focused stuff saves weight to sacrifice durability)

The main problem you will face is the components will wear out quicker than if they were higher quality, however if you wear them out, its a sign your riding enough to justify spending the coin on higher quality.

The other problem you may face is that it will become trickier to tune as it wears out and may ot stay tuned as long as better quality components. This can cause breakages if poorly tuned and poor riding techniques combine att he wrong time time (e.g. power while shifting). You may need to tune the bike up a bit more often.


Bicycle left outside for over a year. Possible to save?

You don't have pictures of the bike, but honestly, theres not much you need to worry about. Pump up the tires and make sure they hold air. Check that the brakes work (may need new pads, cables). Add a new chain and you're likely good to go.

A lot of bikes live outside their whole lives (in rain and snow) and aren't worse for the wear.


Test drive of bike derailed chain easily ... bad sign or nothing?

Excluding the factor of very-very cheap bikes with unknown components, damaged components etc, this particular situation is quite typical for front derailleur which was not set up properly. To be able to shift gears without chain falling off on either side you need to make sure to set up front derailleur correctly, starting with height and rotation angle, and ending with limit screws which are designed specifically to avoid the described situation :) After that you can expose your bike even to several meter drops and chain should stay in place (on a mountain bike, with appropriate rear derailleur), not mentioning just a plain simple ride like you had even without shifting.

Many people hate front derailleurs because setup could be tricky. It took me a while to figure out how to set it up and now I can do it even in the field without a stand. So answering your question, I believe that there is nothing wrong with the bike, but setup was done by somebody not really experienced. One of the ways to see that it's not set up properly is to try to shift front derailleur - it only shifts perfectly if every part of the setup is done well.

Useful links on how to set up limiting screws to keep the chain on:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment#article-section-4

Video version of the article, here they also demonstrate which setup leads to chain falling off:


Smaller bikes are easier to ride and you can raise the saddle to the correct height so your knees aren't damaged. If you go too small you can get toe overlap with the front wheel, but on a mountain bike the wheelbase is longer and this is unlikely to be an issue.

Generally women have shorter torsos and longer legs. So they difference in a women's frame is generally a shorter top tube. Getting a smaller size frame and raising the saddle a few extra cm's will do the same thing to a man's bike.

Please don't get a man's bike that is too big for you, it's never going to be fun to ride.  If you have the opportunity to ride both sizes, take it and you'll see what I mean immediately.

I ride over 8000k's per year and the only times I've felt uncomfortable was on a frame that was too large by a cm or so. Couldn't get rid of them soon enough.


What are these parts and how to remove them without a tool

Press them out from the other side using a threaded bar, buts washers and probably a suitable socket (one on the lip on the back and one large enough on the side shown in your picture so the bush can fit inside it).

Why do you want them out?


Can a conventional seat be reversed 180 degrees to be used as a noseless seat?

If it works for you then go ahead.
The risk might come in a lack of control when riding hard, like descending while off the saddle it is common to use the sides of the saddle against the inside of one's thighs to help control the bike.
Separately you might need to angle the nose up sufficiently to get a comfortable position on the now-leading edge
Lastly, its probably not an issue for you but a reversed saddle on a rental bike means this one is damaged and needs some kind of service so don't rent it.


If it doesn't leak oil or anything, you always have the option of just leaving it as is. "If it ain't broke don't fix it." Otherwise, clear nail polish is an option. You'll want to extremely carefully sand or file the rough edges off.
You can also buy just the upper half of the fork. You don't need to replace the entire thing.


Disc brakes too tight after pad replacement

Deore disc brakes (and most others) use a spring to apply pressure to the pads which helps the pistons and pads retract when you release the brakes (the primary return mechanism for the hydraulic system is a spring in the piston assembly in the lever, however as this only acts on the pistons the pad return spring is responsible for separating the pads from the rotor). Often a pad return spring will come with the new pads (an example listing from CRC) but if not you can reuse the old spring as long as it is undamaged.

If you don't recall installing the spring when you changed the pads it may have fallen out and gotten lost, or it remained in the caliper when you removed the old pads and is now sitting underneath the new pads. When installing the new pads for this style of brake the prongs of the spring should sit either side of the friction material and rest on the face of the metal backing plate closest to the rotor (~5:30 in the linked video shows the process). The holes for the retention pin should line up as well.


Can I replace loose ball bearings with caged ball bearings in my hub?

Yes, you can get caged bearings to go in the hub. RJ The Bike Guy seems to have several YouTube how-to videos (hint: they have to go the right way round)

No, they are not better than loose balls. Caged balls are spaced out evenly, but have fewer balls in total which means fewer balls sharing the load, so they are said to wear out quicker.

With loose balls, you need to leave a little bit of room for them to move, so you’d put in one less than fills the whole cup. Given that caged sets typically have seven balls, if you put nine in loose then you’ll still have more bearings (better) than using a caged set. I.e. if you’re concerned about the space between balls, 9 loose is still preferable to 7 caged.

Some front hubs can take 10 balls, it depends on the design. You need to figure out which size your hub requires - presumably the majority of your balls are still the original size. If you can measure that then figuring out, or asking the LBS, or asking here in another question with photos, how many to put in, should get the hub running smoothly again.


Alternative way for truing disc brake rotor after a couple of truing procedures

Your best and safest option is to replace the rotor with a new one.

Bend metal enough and it will deform permanently.

In addition, rotors do wear away slowly over time.  There's a chance yours is getting thinner, and more vulnerable to bending.   Generally they're ~2 mm thick when new and unservicable at 1.6 mm thick.

Finally, if your rotor has overheated at any time (IE its blue or rainbow-coloured) then the rotor has also been weakened and is vulnerable to bending and warping.

Brake systems are the one part on which you don't want to cheap-out.


What kind of Rear derailleur do i have and what RD should I buy as a replacement?

I think you will need a claw hanger adapter.  The old derailleur has one that appears to be non-removable, and the new one has a 10mm bolt that expects to find a matching hole in the frame, which yours won't have.
You probably want something that looks like this:

There is a sunrace branded one, but it looks the same in the critical dimensions as a generic pictured above.


Yes.

Since that's a short answer, here's some examples (without making any sort of recommendation)

http://www.dx.com/p/outdoor-sports-blue-light-3-mode-led-flashing-safety-armband-black-2-cr2032-425777#.WaxcC3Wg9hE

http://www.dx.com/p/outdoor-cycling-reflective-safety-3-mode-led-nylon-armband-w-buckle-green-2-x-cr2032-339927#.WaxcA3Wg9hE

Do consider the colour before wearing - In my country Blue (police) and Green (medical service private transport) are reserved colours that must not feature on a road vehicle.  Also Red must not face forward and White must not face rear (unless reversing)

I have used something similar to the blue one and it works as described, but they're not bright enough to see with.  2x CR2016 batteries don't last long, and CR2032 are only marginally better.

You could also get the same effect using electroluminescent wire and stitching it to a velcro strap.

The easiest solution is to use a small red rear light and clip it to the back of your traffic-side foot or pedal.  Some risk of it falling off though.


Can I swap my Saccon Altex calipers with Campagnolo Veloce

The pull will be fine if those are the levers you have. You should measure the reach needed by your bike. It's the vertical distance from the center of the brake hole to the center of the brake track. Veloce calipers are 39-49mm.

Doing this with Campy is suboptimal because you won't have brake quick releases anywhere.

Not much can happen to the sort of brake you have to make them truly beyond repair. If normal cleaning/lube and adjustment doesn't do it, they may need their springs bent.


If you must leave a bike outside during winter, the best thing to do is to shelter it as best you can (eg, under an eave, but not in the "dripline") and cover it with a sturdy plastic tarp.  The tarp should be tied down well to keep it from blowing off, but should be open at the bottom to allow air in.

Before storing the bike, squirt some chain oil on the chain and sprockets, and squirt some aerosol lube (not WD40 but maybe something like LPS or SuperLube) down the brake and shift cable housings.  Dab off excess but leave a good coating.

Ideally, hang the bike or store it upside down, so that the weight is not on the tires.  (Standard quality tires and tubes will hold enough air to support a bike without going flat for anywhere from about a month to 6 months, but will only hold enough air to support the rider for 2 days to two weeks.)

Otherwise, maintenance is based on wear.  Clean and relube the chain once a season or (ideally) every 500 miles, replace the chain after maybe 2000 (get yourself a chain stretch gauge to check this).  Have a bike shop check the sprockets for wear after maybe 5000 miles and then every 1000.  Have the wheel and headset bearings relubed every 10,000 miles or so.  Replace tires when the tread wears through or when the sidewalls develop cracks.  Replace tubes when you replace tires.


Reason behind the Tour Down Under "People's Choice Classic"

It's complicated, and this may not be all there is to it.

From my reading of part 2 of the UCI WorldTour regulations (p43-44) is

The duration of new "Continental" events is 5 days, unless the event has an exemption from the committee. Existing events have the same duration they had in 2004. The Tour Down Under went for 6 days in 2004.
A prologue can be included if

It does not exceed 8km.
It is time trial.
It counts as a race day.

This all confirms your suspicion that it's due to the rules. The Peoples Classic was 50km, and was not a time trial, so it couldn't be part of the TDU. As you say, it was good for attendance and marketing (and publicity).


There are several good systems. I'm a certified BG fitter, as well as certified with the retul system. You're familiar with the BG system, as you've already been through it.

Retul is a system which uses power measurement and body position sensors on a 3 dimensional wire frame (virtual) reproduction of your bike and body. It allows an experienced fit specialist to see the skeletal body position without the intervening tissue interfering with the process. The power measurement is individualized to each foot, which means that efficiency can be improved and equalized, and you can see in real time how a body position change affects your efficiency on the bike.

In my opinion, they are both good fits, performed by a skilled bike fitter. A skilled fitter can be defined 3 ways:

First, your fitter should ride a bike. Now, experienced fitters are often the older guys in a shop, so they may not be fast or aggressive riders. They may even be fat. But they still need to ride, to be able to feel the way new bike styles and fit ideas affect the way a fit should be done.
The fitter needs to be experienced at bike fit. Preferably, years of experience. Learning to properly fit a bike is a time intensive process. It is best accomplished by an apprenticeship with an older, experienced fitter, in combination with classroom education on new tools and techniques. It is ok to be fit by someone who is learning, but it will take more time and you should expect more trial and error in the process.
The fitter needs to be willing and able to examine the method of fit he is using and modify it to fit the needs of the rider. Meaning, a skilled and experienced time trialist needs a very different body position than a first time roadie looking to do a century in 6 months. A fit must take into account the fitness, experience, and intent of the rider. A fitter who fits everyone the same way is unlikely to do well for all of his or her clients.

So, to get back to the original question, there are many good fit systems, but what works best for you will depend on your intent, experience riding, and your fitness.

The BG fit is a great option for riders who are more interested in comfort than in efficiency. There is a balance point where comfort and efficiency meet up. That is what a well performed BG fit will find. But, there is a point where a racer, who is generally more interested in efficiency and power than in comfort.

There is a certain amount of pain and suffering that is expected of a rider who is looking to maximize performance, which will come at the price of a loss of comfort. The Retul fit does a great job of maximizing performance, bu the "comfort" zone it looks for is peak performance without actual damage to the body.

Both fit styles in the hands of an experienced fitter can be tuned to the rider. I find that quite often, though, there is bit of "I drank the Kool-Aid" mentality with fitters who have the classroom training, but not the flexibility or possibly the experience to recognize that every fit must be individualized to the rider.

So, I guess, what I'm saying is it is worth checking out other styles of fit, but it should be a style and a fitter which fit with your intent on the bike.

Make sense?


Clipless shoes & pedals and long distance

Clipless pedals let you pull up a bit and road shoes are rigid-ish, so you can get some more power from each turn (of course, you're using your muscles in a bit of a different way). This also gives a bit of a different pressure distribution than platform pedals (look at the layout of say, a Look pedal versus a platform pedal). In an off road situation, they prevent you from bouncing off the pedals as well. You can use them for going for long distances just fine -- in fact, thats where they're primarily advantageous (note that for riding long distances, you need to be sufficiently physically fit and have a sufficiently well suited bike, such as a well bike fitted touring bike -- if you don't, no shoe can help/hurt you). However, walking around in them can be annoying (there are cleat covers and other things for dealing with this) due to the cleat and the type of sole in most cycling shoes. Note that just because something is labeled mountain doesn't mean it won't work with road (you just need the same type of cleat and pedal). They do make one side platform one side SPD (a type of clipless) pedals for people who ride with regular shoes sometimes and SPD shoes at other times / are transitioning.

http://sheldonbrown.com/shoe-pedal.html is good reading.
http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/bike-pedals.html is as well, though note that SPD is also available for road use.

The most important thing is fit and knowledge of how to use them - you don't want to fall down while stopping or have uncomfortable shoes for long distances, so you may want to invest in shoe fitting when giving them a shot. Much like buying boots, you may not use the same size cycling shoe as you do sneakers (especially if you wear US 13 sneakers like me...).


2 suggestions.

Only change the derailleur, since the new frame should have its own derailleur hanger.
derailleurhanger.com


Do you need to open the calipers of a hydraulic disk brake in order to clean it?

You can clean inside the calipers as part of a general bike wash if you take the wheels out. It’s best to put the bike in a repair stand or find some other method for suspending it above the ground. As you wash the bike wash around the calipers. You can thread a clean rag between the pads and use a ‘flossing’ action to clean between the pads. But very careful to not pull the brake levers when you are doing this as the caliper pistons and pads would be over-extended, and you will not be able to get the wheel and rotor back in the fork or frame.
When cleaning, make sure you thoroughly wash off any detergent or cleaning product that might act as a lubricant on the pad or rotor.
If you want to be a bit more thorough, you can remove the pads and push the pistons back into the caliper. This will give you more space to clean in inside the caliper with a rage or small brush. Again, do not pull the brake levers. With the pads out the pistons can over-extend and may come out of the caliper. If this happens you’ll need to have the calipers rebuilt and bled. How the pads come out is dependent on the caliper model but generally you undo a retaining bolt, then the pads slide out of the top of the caliper. Check the model of your brakes and look up the manual to find out how to remove the pads. Do not try undoing random bolts on the caliper. You also want to make sure you know how to re-install the pads properly, for obvious reasons.
In some cases the pistons can get sticky in their seals. There are special cleaning methods to address this. See this Park Repair Help video

            .


No, it's because the colors are not a universal indicator of what grade/type a particular compound is across brands. Loctite/Henkel products do use their color scheme to communicate strength level, but even there it's more complicated than that because there are different compounds that are the same color and might differ in other attributes like gap tolerance, cure time, need for use with a primer, oil tolerance, etc. People love oversimplifying this point when they talk about threadlockers, but the fact of the matter is there's a whole lot of different compounds out there with very different properties.

The type of pre-applied threadlocker some bottom brackets come with seems to usually or always be somewhere in the medium strength category regardless of what color it is. You'll find examples in blue, green, red, and white, but in practice in this application they all do more or less the same thing, and they don't in and of themselves create situations where extraordinary measures have to be taken to remove the BB later.

A BB manufacturer might have more to say about this, but personally I've always perceived those partial bands of pre-applied threadlocker on cartridge BBs as being primarily an "at least they'll definitely have something" notion, i.e. a bit of corrosion and loosening insurance for the person or factory that's going to put things together dry no matter what, as opposed to ever being the only thread treatment I need. I always use grease or anti-seize on the entire internal surface of every BB shell (or a full coating of medium-strength threadlocker in the case of the right-threaded drive side standards, Italian and French, plus in special cases like Phil Wood BBs). On a certain level this seems wrong or backwards because the dogma is that threadlocker and grease aren't supposed to be on the same threads at the same time, and yet manufacturers who put threadlockers on their cartridge BBs tend to have it in the instructions to grease the threads.

Permanent/very strong threadlocker or retaining compound on BB threads would be a mistake. Medium strength is enough to add a ton of resistance because BB threads are so fine. Phil Wood bottom brackets more or less rely on the cups being loctited to function and still a medium strength (Loctite 242, one of the really common blue ones) is all that's recommended. In this case you're painting the threads fully with liquid threadlocker, which is then capable of providing protection against corrosion with about the same efficacy as grease or anti seize.


What is the significance of rear travel of a frame?

What are they properly called?

Rear wheel travel (e.g 180mm) and shock travel (e.g 3 inches [76.2mm]).

  They seem related

Theoretically they are not. One could design a pivot system which would give 180mm of rear wheel travel with a 18mm shock travel. This would not work correctly though.

The ratio between the wheel travel and the shock travel is called the suspension leverage ratio. A 180 to 76.2 setup gives us a leverage ratio of ~2.36 to 1. Some companies (e.g http://foesracing.com/) claim that a lower leverage ratio (e.g 2:1) has significant advantages for downhill racing.

  So what shock and rear travel would I want for different types of mountain riding?

You'll only choose the rear wheen travel based on what you want to do. For example if you want to do downhill racing then 203mm is the norm. Whichever brand and frame you choose will come with a rear shock installed which has very specific size specifications, e.g 9.5x3 (that is eye to eye and shock travel in inches) and even if you wanted to change the rear shock you'd have to go with those specs.


Does pedaling while standing wear down the pedal?

No, pedaling while standing will not cause a properly installed pedal to come off. However, if a pedal comes off, it not particularly desirable to be standing.

As far as weight distribution, putting all your weight on one pedal for extended periods will not hurt you bike or cause things to go wrong with the bike.


Shimano 105 10 and 11 speed compatibility

If you want to go from Shimano 10 speed road to 11 speed road, you'll need a new cassette, new shifters, a new chain and a new rear derailleur, since the cable pull ratios have changed (again). Zinn also notes that 10 speed FD might not shift as nicely as 10 speed FD with the 11 speed shifters, so may as well throw one of those in.

So, in the drive train, essentially all you'd be wanting to keep is the crank if you want to go from Shimano 10 speed road to Shimano 11 speed road.


Why do base kilometers help with time trials?

It’s all about maximizing the positive effects of training while minimizing recovery time and injury risk
You want to target different systems in the body as effectively as possible. A naive approach to training would be to (try to) train at race intensity and duration each and every day. However you’ll quickly reach a point where you can’t recover fast enough, suffer from injuries or reach a point where you don’t improve anymore. Different systems in the body also respond to different intensities.
Long rides are great to strengthen the heart muscle, improve oxygen uptake of the muscles and improve how fast you can burn fat. Training these systems mostly depends on training duration and less on intensity. Long and easy can even be done after hard training days and shorter easy rides can improve recovery because of increased blood flow through the muscles. Short, high intensity training is best to improve other factors like VO₂Max or pure muscle strength.
Apparently until a few decades ago athletes used to perform the same workouts, day in day out, the whole year long. Periodization was kind of a break-through. Now you generally start the season with a lot of long, easy endurance workouts and replace them with more and more relatively short, high quality, high intensity workouts the closer you get to the final race day.
Edit: I’ll try to answer the follow up questions:

I remember an episode on That Triathlon Show where an expert cited research that cool-down (i.e. continuing at very low intensity after a hard workout) actually doesn’t have any positive effect for recovery or training effectiveness. She mentioned that the only positive effect is that it prevents people from fainting after a race because it prevents the blood from suddenly pooling in the legs (I imagine simply lying down would achieve this as well). Not sure why people still seem to do it, maybe because it’s also a good way to calm down.
At least for running, Daniel Craig’s ”Running Formula” recommends to do running if you want to get better at running. I think he mentions that off-season activities like cross country skiing can have a positive effect but he doesn’t recommend it if all you want to do is get better at running. I think the same applies to bicycling though since it’s less dependent on form/technique it probably benefits more than running from exercise which targets similar muscles, endurance etc.
I don’t know about that one. I think your question boils down to if doing a certain type of workout for a few days or weeks in a row (e.g. several weeks of easy rides during base training phase) is more effective than simply throwing it in every now and then. Some training plans do have supercompensation blocks where you do high intensity workouts for a few days in a row (more or less intentionally going above the maximum recoverable volume). Not sure you could fit that in a monthly training cycle.


Why does my chain have a single hollow pin?

Its not a master link - that's probably the one-use pin that was used to close the chain the first time.

This is what a Shimano pin looks like after its been snapped off.   There's a clear difference to show this pin should not be pushed out again because the plate holes will be enlarged slightly.

Your one doesn't look quite the same - it does look like a snapped off line exists though.  This was probably a hollow connection pin rather than the solid one supplied with that chain, or perhaps sunrace pins are all hollow.


Freehub has notches worn into it: is it OK?

The bumps on the freehub splines are caused by steel cogs on the cassette digging into the softer aluminum metal on the freehub.

You can use a file and file down the ridges, once, maybe twice without affecting performance too much, but eventually you will want to purchase a new freehub.

Depending on your needs, you can purchase a steel freehub and this issue shouldn't be a problem.