You could always keep an eye out on eBay for your LeMond head badge, or better yet create a "saved search" that will notify you by email when someone tries to sell one.  The other alternative is to search eBay, craigslist, the classified ads in the newspaper, and so on for another LeMond bike or frameset for sale, buy it, transfer the head badge or use the new bike/frame, and then sell the bike or frame that you don't intend to use.


In all likelihood, the cassette is new.  The cassette is manufactured this way. The difference in teeth shape and depth is to assist the chain take-up when you change gears.
Look for wear marks on the ramps and grime between the cogs - a new cassette should be clean with no marks.  While it could be possible to clean a used cassette to 'new' condition, (likely more expensive than a new cassette), it would be next to impossible to remove wear marks off the ramps.


Without being 100% sure as the picture isn't very informative, it looks like you need to make a fake bottle.  I'd use a long strip of corrguated card cut to approximately the length of the bottle and rolled to the right diameter (you don't have to do this all with one piece).  You could start with a core from something like a roll of paper towel, and wrap the card round that.


That's rough. Rotten luck and you have my sympathy.

When you say "as a kid" am I right to think not fully grown? Because little kids start closer to the ground, don't weigh as much, and don't tend to be going as fast, but crash a lot. Teenagers are a different matter: good reactions but poor judgement and the size and speed of adults, but they're quick to heal and fractures tend to be less severe as their bones are more flexible.

Did you by any chance suffer any kind of hand injury? Apparently breaking the clavicle is common coming off a bike if you put your hand down, but that's instinctive (I was lucky recently that I was still holding the flat bars when I hit the ground, and was a lot slower).

You may never know exactly why you came off this time (why you got to the grass in the first place). Maybe you were pushing your speed right to the limit of the grip on a bend and hit a bad bit of road, or instinctively dodged something. Maybe you were very close and the wind shifted. Maybe tiredness contributed. Trying to hop back onto the road was a bold move that I couldn't carry off, but many people could and you know your own skills. Maybe it would have worked but for continuing bad luck.

When you get back on the bike, you'll have to build up gradually. You won't be as fast, as flexible, or as fit (even if the medics allow you to do some trainer work as part of your recovery - you may even be encouraged to at the later stages but). Go out with a group, but a slower one, and people you trust not to push you too hard until you're ready - buddies are great for confidence. Start with decent riding conditions - if you're in the Northern hemisphere that's easy as you'll be out in the summer. Know that you've got to look after yourself. And see a good physio, preferably one who specialises in injured athletes.

Right now you're not in a good place, but as you get back out and ride you'll be able to make a full recovery from the mental as well as the physical trauma.


Shimano 11 speed road shifters with 10 speed hub?

It is possible to use MTB 11 speed cassette on a 8-9-10 speed freehub body.
Although not officially compatible, the recently introduced 105 derailleur RD-R7000-GS can physically shift up to 42t cog, but Shimano introduced also a 11-34 11-speed cassette which fits 10-speed freehub body, so there's plenty to choose from in 2019.


Is rotating seat post 180 degrees to get a tri position a good idea?

I ride my bikes HARD (BMX park/street/dirt) and back in the 90s we had to use what ever parts we could find. Since no one was making parts back then for BMX, it was usually MTB parts. Even back then and with all the abuse we put them through, (yes, even flipping seats and posts backwards to fit our needs) the parts seemed to hold up pretty well (Except the hollow axles used for quick release, those snapped pretty easy), about the only thing was the posts would kink, but that was because they were raised way high and dropped from 30-40 feet up off the ground. I can't tell what brand of post that it, but it looks more solid than the crap we used back then, and we beat them up pretty good. My guess is that you will be fine.


Why (and how) would someone steal only my innertube?

Occam's razor says that you should try the simpler/null hypothesis first, in this case that your tube wasn't stolen.  There are two alternate hypotheses that you should test:

1) Are you sure that you had one in the first place? Perhaps you were running tubeless and never knew it?

2) Are you sure the tube is actually gone? One thing that can happen (either by prank or accident) especially with schrader valves if you don't have a valve cap (but also with presta if you don't have a locknut) is that when the tube deflates, the valve can retreat back into the rim and get lost (I'll avoid making any dirty jokes about this).

I grabbed the following image off an unrelated page but you can imagine what would happen if the valve got pressed in even further and got lodged inside the rim. It would look like there was never any inner tube in the first place.

I've almost done this (gotten the valve lost inside the rim) trying to inflate a tire. It's not hard and it could even conceivably happen as a tire self-deflated.


You don't need to replace the entire crankset; just the rings. But since the time and effort you put in to seeking and buying the rings of the right bolt circle diameter (BCD; the size of the circle of the bolts that connect the chainrings to the 'spider'), which for your cranks is 110 for the middle and largest ring, and 74 for the inner ring. You might find it simpler to source an entire replacement crankset.

The number of teeth is up to you, but don't go way outside what you originally had otherwise you run into problems like chain length. However, when one replaces chainrings, it is often time to replace the chain, and cassette too. You should check the wear of the chain by either using a chain testing tool (you can get them on ebay for about 6 bucks) or by using a ruler. Two links should be exactly 1 inch, so over 24 links you might see some stretch if it goes beyond 12 inches. Just what is acceptable stretch you will have to google, but certainly there's the risk of your chain not fitting on the new chainring if the chain and the old chainrings wore each other out.

As a rule of thumb, a chain is replaced first, and then every perhaps 4 or 5 chains, if you replace it on time, you will need to replace your cassette. Then, after maybe 4 cassettes, your chainrings will also need to go.

Have you replaced the chain and cassette recently?

Also, the new rings need not be biopace, but if you do get biopace, follow the instructions closely on installation, because they go in a certain orientation with respect to the spider.


The reality is that panniers are very similar to camping equipment. You have, "50% nylon and 50% polyester". So go to a camping store or online retailer and find a patch kit designed for that fabric combination. It may be included with the kit, but if not, you'll need a sealing compound to cover the patch.


Is there a Campagnolo / Shimano compatibility issue for friction shift systems?

In general, no.

Campy, Shimano, and Suntour (and other) friction shift systems are compatible because where the chain lands is up to you.

There are some caveats that you'll have to resolve with trial and error. In particular some rear derailleurs have "longer reach" than others. You may not be able to shift to the largest cog on some freewheels if the derailleur is short (intended for racing). But that is not specific to friction systems.

You'll get the best results from friction mode systems if you stick with down-tube levers. Of course, these are compatible across vendors and some indexed levers even have a selectable "friction mode".

Finally, it is posssible to mix campy and shimano indexed shifter/cogs if you use an adaptor. I use a j-tek and it works fine.


Disc brake system for downhill and dirt trail

Probably 200mm for down hill. 180mm will work if you are not too heavy and don't ride hard.

Disadvantages of bigger rotor is heavier and more prone warping and getting damaged. Advantages are more stopping power and better heat dissipation. However, that's presuming same quality brakes. Better brakes trump a bigger disc.

Does you bike have mounts for discs?


Changing the cassette: is it necessary to change the rear derailleur and/or chain?

OK, from my research, and the other answers, this are the steps you have to take to change your cassette:

Determine if you have a freewheel or a cassette? This is a distinction that I initially ignored. It is important because you need different tools to remove and install these, so be careful.
Find your derailleur model, it is usually engraved in the back of it (mine is a Shimano Tourney RD-A070) and google the maximum sprocket that it supports. For my derailleur, it was a 28 teeth gear, but I managed to make it work with a 34t. As always, manufacturer specifications are a little conservative.
Adjust the b-screw in your rear derailleur: here is a How-to tutorial

            . Doing this you'll be able to adjust it for a bigger sprocket.
Using the model of your derailleur, google its capacity. The capacity is the difference in teeth from the gear in which the chain is loosest (the smaller chainring and the smaller rear sprocket) to that in which it is tightest (the biggest chainring and the biggest rear sprocket).

If the capacity of your rear derailleur is lower than your actual capacity, I think you can solve this problem by avoiding ever cross-chaining.

This is what I have been able to come up from zero knowledge about this, so, please, correct me if I am wrong in any of the above.


There are several companies making "noseless" saddles as well as snub nosed saddles.  Either will "work", as in, you can use them to ride a bike.  I had several riding friends who swore by the Spongey Wonder in particular.  I tried it and found that while it was possible to use, it wasn't for me.  These seats are sold with the idea that they don't contact the perineum and won't do damage to nerves or vasculature there.

A nose breaking on a saddle is fairly rare.  I have seen far more broken rails or shells than I have ever seen broken noses.  As mentioned in comments, I'd likely seek a warranty replacement if this was on a new saddle.

As for needing the presence of a nose, strictly speaking, it is not necessary to ride a bike.  However, it is an extra control surface that can be used in various positions to exert or maintain control of a bicycle.  That being said, I always prefer to ride a saddle that DOES have a nose.

TL;DR  If you have nerve or vascular concerns and have had issues with nosed seats, a snub nose or noseless saddle may be worth investigating.  If you are simply concerned with the idea of a nose breaking again, I would say it's a low probability event and not worth investigating alternate saddle designs over.


How do I make sure my bike's the proper size?

While in the saddle, your feet should not touch the ground and your leg should be almost completely extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke.  You ought to be able to straddle the top tube fairly easily with your feet flat on the ground.

Sheldon Brown's article on starting on a bicycle may help with getting accustomed to having the seat higher than you are used to.  Do visit his site to see the video, but here are the basics:

  Stand astride the frame, both feet on the ground.  Do not try to sit on the saddle while the bike is stopped, this is not usually possible if your saddle is properly adjusted.
  Rotate the pedals so that the pedal for your less skillful foot is 45 degrees forward of straight up.
  Put your foot on the high pedal, then press down hard, and mount the bike as you begin to move forward.


As the comment says, it is a cable clamp. They come in a variety of styles, knowing the make and type of brake it came from would help your LBS find something that should work.


How is bicycle trailer stability affected by hitch position?

In my experience, an axle mount is most stable compared to a seatpost mount.

With the seatpost clamp, the differences are most evident when braking and when turning.  The contact point is a hefty "shove" from the side/rear, and because its so much higher than your wheels it has enough leverage to be noticed.

Imagine, turning at any speed and for some reason the trailer hangs up on a bump or pothole for an instant.  Your saddle ends up being "pulled" to the inside of the turn.

Imagine when braking, your free-running trailer is shoving you up the seatpost and fighting the brakes.  If you're hard-stopping so 90+% of the braking is on your front wheel, then the back wheel can be lifted clear off the ground and get pivoted sideways by the trailer.

When towing, rear wheel braking increases in importance from "almost useless" to "quite a good idea"

Note I've never tried a BOB-type connector where the pivot is behind the rear wheel.  I imagine these feel like axle mount trailers.

A chainstay clamp might be convenient but mine almost fell off several times, so upgraded to a towball and hitch for safety.


Is a tyre with sideways bulge going to cause damage to the rim or the hub or the axle?

I can't say 100%, and full caution etc that if it's bulging that has to do with casing failure/damage or installation error then you should stop riding it, but it sounds like it's probably distortion caused by imperfections at the casing seam. Marathons, for everything nice about them, are a little notorious for this. Schwalbe will generally warranty particularly bad ones, which if you can feel it clearly while riding I would say these are. At times I've seen a lot of them that needed to be sent back for reasons much like you describe, suggesting a QC step getting missed or a machine not working right or the like. As the incidence of the problem has seemed high during certain time periods, it doesn't strike me as unusual to have two tires with it, and in fact that both tires have the issue suggests it's the seam rather than casing damage.

You can usually confirm that it's happening at the seam by examining the tire to see the look of the fabric layer under the rubber, or inside if you have the tire off, then following around to where you see that pattern disrupted, stacked double for a small bit, etc.

I've speculated that the kind of left-to-right diagonal distortion you describe is caused by something along the lines of the cuts of material not being square or the seams not putting them in a square orientation.

Riding the tires like this won't typically hurt anything except perhaps your enjoyment and steering control. It won't affect the tube, rim, hub, etc. Also, the distortion by itself from messy seams usually doesn't imply any inability of the casing to constrain the tube. If you're using rim brakes then you'd want to make sure the distortion isn't causing rub between the tire and pads or brake arms. And you also want to make sure the bulge isn't causing that spot to get close enough to the frame/fork to cause rubbing or clearance too tight to allow for some debris build up.


Possible to identify sprocket without taking the bike apart?

To answer the question as asked:

You'll have a Shimano Nexus gear hub, so you need a sprocket compatible with that. (Any reasonably competent mechanic should have been able to tell you that!)

Sheldon Brown has a page on Nexus and Affine geared hubs which includes info on sprockets: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html.

You should be able to find Nexus sprockets at most major online bike component retailers. E.g., at Universal Cycles: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=4171.

To be sure about what you are buying, I think you will have to get the wheel off to look at the existing sprocket to compare with images of new sprockets at inline retailer pages.

Don't be too scared of getting the wheel off, it's a straightforward process. Park Tool has a great YouTube video detailing the process of replacing a single speed chain which includes removing and re-installing the wheel:

            .

I believe there are no specialized tools needed to get the wheel off or to replace the sprocket, beyond wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers etc. You will need a chain tool if you are replacing the chain. See the Park tool video.

There are a few videos on YouTube that show how to replace the sprocket. I found this one:

            .

Now to address 'implied' questions:

You may not need to replace the chain or sprocket, you do however need to give it a good clean and lube! You may find that cleaning and lubing it ameliorates any problems you are having with it.

There are several methods of determining if a chain is worn out. Chains appear to 'stretch' as they wear out (they do not literally stretch, they get slightly longer as they wear because the holes in the links the pins go through get slightly bigger, allowing the individual links to move slightly further apart). You can find answers on here that address determining chain wear by measuring the degree of stretch. You can also find answers about determining sprocket wear.


What's the easiest way to insert a star nut into a steerer tube?

The easiest solution is to use the right tool to make sure the star nut is aligned and set to the right depth in the steerer tube. I'd really recommend taking this to a shop and asking to borrow the proper tool. I own one, even though it only gets used once or twice per year. I've tended to go more towards compression plugs instead of the old star-fangled nut. If you're looking for an alternative to using the proper tool, you can thread a bolt in the nut and tap carefully with a hammer, or perhaps use a dowel or socket of the appropriate diameter instad of a bolt.


What to replace after using WRONG hydraulic fluid

Every non-metal part touched by the fluid could have been damaged by it, and none of it is available as service parts other than the hose. Especially given you're already seeing evidence of the seals degrading, replacing the whole thing is all you can do.


Shimano Integrated ST-EF51 Shifter and Brake Lever

The most common cause by far is the cable tension needs to be adjusted. The other potential causes and contributing factors are cable/housing friction, housing damage, derailer hanger misalignment, derailer damage, barrel adjuster unscrewed all the way and flopping loose, cable anchored incorrectly, cable donut caught in housing stop, wheel crooked in frame, b-tension screw adjustment, extreme cassette/chain wear. Since for you the problem is happening at the high end of the cassette, the limit screws should also be checked. The chain should be reasonably lubricated as well.

The basic troubleshooting would be make sure the wheel is seated squarely in the frame, check (or really sense) that the cable is moving through the housings with minimal friction and lube or otherwise address it if needed, eyeball that the limit screws are doing their thing by constraining the derailer's range of movement correctly, while doing so also eyeball for a bent hanger or derailer, and then check that when shifted onto the smallest cog position you have cable tension in the ballpark of being just taut with no slack but not much tension beyond that. That sounds like a lot but once you know what you're looking for it's pretty automatic. From there you fine tune the cable tension using the barrel adjusters so that it shifts smoothly in both directions. If that's not possible, the most common cause is hanger misalignment.

The shifter itself is typically only the problem if it's clearly broken, or if it's missing clicks due to lack of internal lubrication, which is correctable. Either of those occurring is fairly common. A Shimano Rapidfire type shifter clicking through fine but shifting poorly due to inadequate precision, acquired or not, is a distant theoretical possibility, but not really something you see.


If you have a 42mm tyre, and still have 3/4" of clearance at all possible points, then your maximum size would be 42mm +19mm = 61mm.

Do check the clearance at the chainstays, the seat stays, and the brake bridge.  You imply you have rim brakes, they're often the limiting factor.


Running 23 mm tires on a rim width of 23 mm is insane -- your tires should be around to 40-50 mm.

To summarize Sheldon Brown's page:

Narrow tire on wide rim = pinch flats + damage from road hazards (which is the case you are in)

Wide tire on narrow rim = sidewall damage + rim failure and bad handling

You need to get a narrower rim for the bike (or possibly do a 650b conversion if possible, so you can run decent sized tires).


What's the most secure type of bike lock that costs less than $30?

Honestly, I must say that there is no such thing.  Sometimes you can find a U-lock used on Craigslist or similar websites and you might get a better deal.  Otherwise, $30 is below bottom-of-the-ladder for U-locks.

And think about it.  What are you paying for with that 30-50-even $90?  It's a one-installment insurance policy on your bicycle.  I would suggest that you lay down some real money and get a good lock.  If you don't, you can either

Never take your bike anywhere that won't allow you to bring it inside with you.
Plan on replacing your bike frequently and encouraging the bike thieves.

My frivolous answer:  Really.  Maybe you shouldn't spend a bunch of money on a bike lock.  If you get a cheap lock, the bike thieves will have no reason to learn how to open the more expensive type which will leave my bicycle all the safer!

Bike locks cost real dough because they are designed to stand up to real abuse.

I once had a job where I routinely went around a park with a pair of huge bolt cutters, removing the bike locks (and sometimes bikes) that were abandoned there.  The cheap locks are a hellva lot easier to cut off of railings than the beefy OnGuard types.

You do get what you pay for, here, at least in the range of $0-50.  Cheap locks are almost not worth buying.  A $50 U-lock will stand up to several tries with a pair of bolt cutters that have three-foot levers attached to the handles.


Help a new biker with bad fitness to become a bike commuter

Others have answered other parts of your question satisfactorily, but I can't recommend Craigslist highly enough for purchasing your first bike.

You can find cheap used bikes anywhere from $50–$200. It doesn't have to be perfect — it just has to be in a reasonable state of repair. Don't spend $1,000 on a bike before you 1) know you're going to stick with cycling, and 2) know what you want out of a bike. Getting a cheap one off Craigslist lets you figure out both at a very low cost.


I use bullhorns on my fixed gear commuter bike, and sometimes get some hand fatigue/numbness because of the position.  As with everything, everyone will have different experiences because physiology.  But it's been my experience the most comfortable position is in the curve forward.  The forward position is close in comfort to riding on the hoods on normal drop bars.  If comfort is your aim, you will probably get more mileage(get it?) out of better tape or a nice set of gloves.


No. That kind of serial number hints at a small builder who just numbers all their frames sequentially, which is a practice any number of them have used.


Do liners or other hats worn inside a helmet compromise safety?

I've never heard of sweatbands, bandana's, or caps being problematic. Curious about what prompts the question?

The only thing remotely similar that I have heard IS a potential issue is plastic sun-visors attached to helmets. Apparently these things can come loose in a crash and scratch/poke the face.

But linings? No way.

Here's a summary of what is involved in the helmet testing used to certify helmets for CPSC, ANSI or Snell compliance. Any issue related to hair or lining would conceivably be addressed by a "rolloff" test. However, in testing the helmet is merely strapped to a form that represents a head size. The standards have no indication related to what's under the helmet other than the size of the form (to test different size helmets). More complete description of testing here.

If there is any design or safety accommodation for lining under a helmet, it would probably be addressed by the individual manufacturers, but I've never heard such a thing mentioned except that some helmets are better with ponytails.

That said, linings of some form or another have been used widely since helmets have started to be worn. I'd like to know if anybody has heard of any real mishap related to linings under helmets. I suspect there is none.

oh... looking further on the bhsi.org, I see there is an article on hair and helmets.


I also had noise and power issues with my m8000s when they were new.  Sanding the pads and cleaning the rotors made no difference.  My solution was to remove the pads, clamp them in a vise, and hit them with a propane torch for about 30 secs each.  They briefly flamed up, which to me indicated contamination.  Once reinstalled there was power and silence.  That was over a year ago and the problem has not returned.

There is a good thread on MTBR about this issue.

http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/xt-xtr-brakes-get-squeal-power-loss-after-sitting-idle-6-8-weeks-902792.html


Can I install caliper or cantilever brakes on a frame and set of wheels designed for disc brakes?

You would need a new fork in the front to add v-brake bosses and the frame does not support this either. I don't think it's worth the effort on this bike. It's sure not going to be easy without replacing both fork and frame.

I think for your situation, what may be a better solution is to switch to Mechanical Disc Brakes. They are much more field serviceable than hydraulics.  I'm going to recommend avid BB7 brakes since they are easy to adjust (you can adjust pad position on either side of the brake) and very easy to find parts for (most shops are going to have pads).


They add a bit of suspension to the bike

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/technology/smoother-is-faster

  HOW IT’S DONE From It’s CG-R seatpost to the Zertz viscoelastic
  dampers in the fork and seatstays, the Roubaix is designed to filter
  both high frequency vibrations and big hits from the road— so your
  body doesn’t have to.

  ZERTZ The Zertz vibration dampers are designed to take the edge off of
  high the frequency imperfections that every road rider rider knows
  well. From chip sealed roads, to cracks and everything in between,
  Zertz take the edge off of even the worst road surface.


The problem with worn, stretched chains are: increased wear on the cassette sprockets and chainrings, poor shifting, chain slipping on the sprockets, reduced efficiency and increased chance of the chain snapping.

Normally it's considered 'safe' to run a chain up to 0.75% elongation before risking encountering those problems. If you really care about sprocket and chainring wear replace at 0.5% elongation.

If the sprockets and rings are already well worn and everything seems to be working OK for you, just keep going until problems really start to manifest or something fails terminally, at which point you replace the cassette, rings and chain in one go.

Chain slip or the chain snapping could of course put you in actual danger of a crash, especially as both are likely to happen when you are applying maximum force on the chain in a low gear ratio.


How does expensive cranksets affect the performance?

Firstly, most people use higher-end craksets, because they enable higher number of speeds in the rear by using a narrower chain. A 7 speed crankset cannot be used, if you have 10 or maybe even 12 (13!) speed chain.
That affects the speed you are going only indirectly. What also comes with higher-end cranksets is smaller weight and stiffer construction. For many people the weight difference is not that big and not worth the money. One can lower the weight more cheaply elsewhere. The stifness is a marginal point to most.
Many carbon fiber frames also require press-fit bottom brackets. That means you cannot use the cheapest square taper bottom brackets that are threaded and therefore the (often) cheap square taper cranksets. The frame of your bike then requires you to go somewhat higher (although less expensive options still exist).


Head bearing lock nut thread on a vintage english bicycle

You really should measure it to be sure, using a thread pitch gauge and caliper, but if it's made by Raleigh in that era it's probably 1"x26tpi. The frame bore and original stem OD are probably standard dimensions (30.2mm and 22.2mm respectively), and if they are then you can just use a new standard ISO 1" headset along with a new fork that takes standard 1"x24tpi threads.

I've avoided doing this judiciously enough that I don't really know the practical details, but it's common to hear of attempts at extending threads by very much using common dies and a handle going pretty rough.

Basic 26x1-3/8" replacement forks are still available new. In the US, any shop can get you this one. It will have the standard 24tpi threads, so if your headset is 26tpi it will need to be replaced.


Help in figuring out a replacement rear wheel for Huffy Savannah 27"

New ball bearings will cost less than a new wheel - the order of $5 for a bag.   It may be that your bearings are okay just mal-adjusted so there may be no cost for parts.

You'll need a cone spanner and a conventional spanner, some grease, and cleaning gear (rags/ solvent like petrol or whatever)

Since its the rear wheel, you'll need the special tool to remove your cassette/freewheel as well.  Even buying one of these its still cheaper than replacing the wheel.

This is a good start:

Another option is to find a bike coop in your city and ask for some assistance.  Wheel bearings are straightforward fixes.

If you don't feel that you can do this, a bike shop can change your bearings for half the cost of a new wheel.


What factors influence the maximum tire pressure other than the tire itself?

The usual cause of inner tubes exploding while being inflated is that part of the tube is pinched under the rim, or was damaged by a tyre lever while you were fitting the tyre (but manufacturing flaws can happen - I once had a puncture in a tube next the stem where it was difficult to patch, and my spare tube failed at the same place as soon as I inflated it (and there wasn't a sharp edge on the hole in the rim)).

But apart from that, if the tube and tyre are properly seated, and the tube is the right size, the tube shouldn't limit the pressure.

Rim tape can make a difference if the wrong sort is used, but shouldn't otherwise, see http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/_webedit/uploaded-files/All%20Files/Technical%20Info.pdf and search for "Which rim tape should I use".

Tyre sizes and rim sizes vary slightly, and a combination that is a slightly loose fit will let the tyre blow off at a lower pressure. The label allows for that, at least to a certain extent (see http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure and scroll down to "Pressure Recommendations").

Using a tyre on a rim much narrower than it is intended for can make the rim fail and let a tyre blow off: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width. So can using a badly worn rim, of course.


It's hard to get a better bike than a mountain bike for going up and down hills.   Even a cheap one.  The geometry is set up so it's controllable both up and down steep hills, and the gearing almost certainly goes low enough that you'll be able to pedal up even the steepest of hills (as long as you're strong enough to push the combined weight if you, your bike, and all you're carrying up that hill...)
For going down steep hills, as long as you're not trying to set any speed records you just have to be able to stay in control.  (I'm ignoring brakes overheating on long descents here...)
For going up steep hills, as long as the bike is geared so you can pedal it up the hill fast enough to stay upright, the only thing that really matters is the combined weight of the rider, the bike, and everything else you're carrying.  Shaving weight off even the cheapest and heaviest of bicycles won't make a huge difference here, and even the cheapest, heaviest mountain bike probably has low enough gearing.  Shaving just 5 lbs or 2 kg from a bike can get expensive.  The easiest place to lose any weight is to not carry anything heavy.  The next easiest place to lose weight is you...
One thing that can help is using either toe clips or clipless pedals to allow you to also pull up on the pedals.  That will allow you to engage more muscles as you climb and that could help take some load off your quads and glutes.  Note, though, you'll still have the same cardiovascular limits on how much total power your muscles can produce.
Finally, though, it's all about you and your fitness and strength.  Those will both improve as you ride more.  The ride will get easier and/or you'll go faster.


Will regular removal, cleaning and re-placing of my chain weaken or damage it?

Depends on the chain. If it's a chain with cylindrical pins (most singlespeed and some narrow chains) then the damage will be negligible. Even if you always use the same pin you should be fine the first 10 or so times.

If it's a chain with profiled pins you'll need to use a new replacement pin every time and the replacements can't readily be removed (doing so damages the side plates). So you'll be limited to about 100 chain-cleanings before your chain is entirely made of replacement pins. And you will have spent more than the cost of a new chain buying pins.

There's two things to look for: damage to the side plates, especially dishing around the pin; and a pin that is too easy to remove (it's loose). Either means you're likely to have the chain fail in use. Replace that link.

The easy way is to buy a quick release link and use that. They're generally only good for 20-50 open/close cycles, but the failure mode is that they become steadily easier to open, making it easy to tell when you need to replace them. And they're fairly cheap - typically $5 or so each, compared to about $1 for a single-use replacement pin.


Will two spacers between the cassette and the hub effect the chain line?

You're thinking about this from the wrong side of the cassette. All cassettes end at roughly the same point or the lockring wouldn't engage correctly. The spacers are to make sure there is significant compression, but because the cassette is still in the same spot relative to the drive side of the wheel the chainline shouldn't change.

That said you might want to pick up some different size spacers and see if you can change from 2mm (assuming two 1mm spacers) to 1.5mm. My guess is the amount you'd be able to move the cassette inward is very small, but might be significant. Most bike shops have a few spacer sizes on hand will sell them for $.5-$1 each IIRC.


What is the logo gear worn by non-commuter cyclists?

There are different types of logos which get worn for different reasons. Bike clothing may include logos associated with:

Clothing manufacturers: An otherwise plain jersey will often include the logo of the manufacturer. This is common for athletic clothing in general.
Employers: Companies often make jerseys with their logos that (presumably satisfied) employees can wear to show spirit.
Sponsors of professional teams: Fans of professional cycling teams may choose to buy articles of clothing that are replicas of the official team uniforms. These items include the logos of the companies that sponsor the pro team.
Local clubs or teams: A local cycling club may have their own un-sponsored logos. Organizations can order custom kit in much the same way people order custom t-shirts or team bowling shirts.
Sponsors of local clubs or teams: A local cycling club may have team apparel that includes logos of the local bike shop and other local companies that sponsor the team. These items may be offered at reduced prices or even for free to club members.
Races or organized rides: Some races and supported rides give or sell participants commemorative jerseys, which may serve as a memento or badge of honor.
Advocacy groups or messages: Cyclists may wear clothing to show support for a message or for an advocacy or non-profit group. For example, jerseys may include designs featuring the "share the road" message.
Abstract design: Jerseys and shorts may feature designs that are designed to just look good. For example, one manufacturer sells jerseys featuring an imaginary team and based on professional kit from  50 years ago.


There are people who are making custom parts for bicycles, also stems in particular. Whole bicycle frames as well.

But it is a non trivial craft that takes time, practice and determination to master properly. Not to mention that failure of some parts can cause serious injuries, so tread carefully.


If there are no signs of a metallic wire (often colored silver) exposed anywhere near either end of the black housing "tube" connecting the lever on the handlebars and the caliper on the fork, it means that it is a fully closed hydraulic line. Another giveaway for mechanical brakes is a moving arm at the caliper which visibly reacts when pressing a lever.

On your picture, the front brake we see is clearly hydraulic.


What are the risks of fenders/mudguards?

First, if you're using a conventional cantilever brake (i.e. with a yoke, not a link wire), you need a fender or reflector or something to avoid the yoke catching on the tire.

As usual, Sheldon is excellent.

There are several types of fenders:

Downtube mudguards:

Seatpost fenders:

Both of these options sit away from the wheel, clipped on. They can't interfere with the wheel, so coverage isn't as good (esp. for water being thrown up by your front wheel hitting your feet). However, they can work on all bikes. They don't prevent your drive train from being covered in crud from the road (which reduces the lifetime of your parts) or water getting in your headset bearings. There aren't safety issues with these (they can fall off, but nothing should happen if they fall off; they can't jam in a wheel).

Full Fenders:

Ideally you want a mudflap on the front. These mount to eyelets on the frame and fork normally, and at the brake bolts (or reflectors or ziptie there). There are also a few clip on ones for this.  These prevent crud from being thrown up to your drivetrain and getting into the headset bearings.

The problem with full fenders is that something can get caught between the fender and the wheel or the fender can slip (esp. in the front) and jam a wheel. Then you crash. This is why you see fenders with safety release tabs so the fender will shear off in some way if something tries to get caught in the wheel rather than jam it and crash.


This largely depends on how frequently you check the true and tension of the spokes.  If one gets loose you are likely to break spokes frequently, and once you've had a few break the others are likely to go more frequently.

As part of my daily pre-ride check I spin the wheels looking for significant wobbles and will take care of them right then.

As part of my monthly check (usually the first weekend in the month) I squeeze pairs of spokes together around the wheel to check that the tension is approximately the same.  If spokes are loose or if the wheel is out of true I remove it and use a truing stand to true it up.

My general rule of thumb has been if I've broken 4+ spokes it's time to have the wheel rebuilt, which at my LBS cost me about $60-80 depending on the quality and quantity of spokes I choose.

Breaking spokes is not usually a reason to need to buy a new wheel unless there is some kind of defect in the rim or the hub.


The cracks will expose the internal structure to elements. So yes, they are not going to last as long as non-cracked ones but very probably not going to explode right away either.

The Nokia tires that used to be popular in my country developed cracks between tread and sidewall after a few months' use and could still be ridden for years afterwards. Your mileage may vary.


Cross Training routines for longer rides

One of the best ways to build up to longer rides is through interval training.

The best book I've found on the subject is: The Time-Crunched Cyclist: Fit, Fast, and Powerful in 6 Hours a Week by Chris Carmichael. The book includes a lot of info on lactate threshold, energy metabolism, nutrition, race and century training plans, etc. I first tried out his methods after reading one of his articles in Bicycling on century training.

Basically, Carmichael's methods are a form of interval training where you are doing things like hill-repeats, power intervals, fast pace intervals, etc. There's a lot of info out there on interval training. One of the more common is called HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training).

FWIW - I've made interval training my primary method of training for long distance training. I did 3 centuries this summer and never did a training ride over 60 miles. Prior to 4 years ago, my mode of training for long distance was a gradual distance build-up and had mixed results. With interval training, my performance on long distance rides has improved significantly in both speed and how I feel afterwards.

"What other strength/flexibility exercises will help? (yoga, back/shoulder exercises, etc.)"

The upper back and neck can be a real problem on long rides. For this I use a regimen that I got from T-Nation called Deconstructing the Computer Guy. I've found that the exercises to alleviate insufficiencies related to sitting at a computer all day, also translate quite well to cycling.

Revisiting...

I'm between projects at the moment so thought I'd add to this a bit more.

You asked what other aerobic exercises are best. Probably the best is something that you have accessible and will actually do. Swimming, running, walking, rowing, elliptical machines, etc are all good aerobic exercises, but you actually have to like it enough to be regular about it.

For strength and flexibility there are plenty of options. Yoga is one; as well as things like martial arts, tai chi, etc. For strength, weight training is fine; but not a "body builder" type program.

You specifically mentioned that you are having issues with shoulders, back and arms on your increasing distance. I mentioned an article from T-Nation above that has some great techniques for alleviating these kind of issues. (I must note that T-Nation is a rather obnoxious web site, but the advice I referenced is quite good.) For myself, I had postural and muscular imbalance problems due to cycling and too much time at the computer; and found a lot of relief in following a program very similar to the one described in Deconstructing the Computer Guy. (Four years ago I was on a century and could barely turn my head in the last 30 miles due to neck/upper back pain.) It definitely worked for me and my cycling buddy as well.

Hope this helps.


I would guess that chain and/or cassette cogs are worn (typically middle ones go first) if you've tried adjusting and can't get it just right. I go through about a cassette a year on bikes I ride a lot, especially when I don't do a great job of cleaning and relubing the drivetrain. However, just replacing the chain can be bad if it's already jumping. It can get worse if you put on a new chain to the old cassette.

You might be to the point where you need to clean your derailleur/ jockey wheels / front chainrings of any existing grit and replace both chain and cassette.

Other less likely considerations could be:
 - A damaged freehub body (if you have an aluminium freehub body).
 - Misaligned Derailleur hanger (as Nathan Knutson Mentioned)
 - Poorly Adjusted or damaged shifting cables, or cables that are corroded / sticking in cable housing.


Front derailleur doesn't change from grear 1 to gear 2

If you don't find the "barrel adjuster", what you could do is pull the cable a little bit more.

Find the bolt on the derailleur that holds the cable.
Just in case, check that if you pull the cable by hand the derailleur cage moves outwards. If so, set the derailleur to the lowest gear.

Hold the cable with pliers, and with a hex key release the bolt slightly, then pull the cable to make sure it's very tense. (It won't go too far, just a little.) Tighten the bolt again as you still hold the cable with the pliers.


Your best bet is to use mechanical advantage to your benefit. What you want to do is line the wrench up with the opposite crank, so that your hands are as close together as possible, now straddle the frame and force the two apart. Here's an image from Park's description of how to remove a pedal that illustrates it well:

The worst position for the wrench is 180 degrees opposite, so that the crank and the pedal are still parallel, but opposite. It will be almost impossible to remove a pedal in this orientation.

You are correct that the drive side pedal will have a normal thread, and needs to be turned counterclockwise for removal.

It generally takes a lot of force to remove pedals, because they tighten themselves as you ride due to precession. If you find this method still isn't working, refer to Scott's answer about lengthening your tool to gain leverage.


You cannot use a 'threadless' bottom bracket in a threaded shell. Perhaps you are thinking of two-piece bottom brackets designed for press-fit frames that thread together and are designed to eliminate bearing misalignment and creak. These only work because they fit very accurately into the press-fit bearing cups.
The 127[.5] measurement refers to axle length. Each crank model requires a different axle length to get the correct chainline. 0.5mm will not make a difference.
What I'd do is have the BB shell faces faced to give a clean flat surface to the flanges of BB to butt up against, and clean the threads as much as you can will a wire brush and pick. Install the BB with a generous amount of thread locker.


Yes, there are decent 27.5" 80mm forks. Generally, most of good forks allow to reduce travel, usually by a spacer in air spring.

For example:

Official product page of MRP Loop SL claims there's a 27.5" 80mm option available.
Manitou Machete has a 27.5" 100mm option with ability to adjust travel.
2013 RockShox SID service manual mentions travel adjustment in range from 80mm to 120mm for 27.5" model:

I'm sure there are more forks like that.


Removing freewheel MF-Z012 without tools

The answer is in the question - freewheel, not freehub or cassette. You will be needing the tool and a vice (or huge adjustable spanner).

Remember to put the skewer or wheel nuts loosely on to hold the removal tool in place whilst you give it the initial heave-ho. Thereafter take the skewer/nut off.

If you don't want to do it/fork out for the tool then ask your friendly local bike shop - it is a given that they will have the tool. Go with your big adjustable spanner and borrow the tool for five minutes (remembering to buy something) if they insist on charging you £10 for the job.


In the end I had success using a grinding wheel and a 100mm / 4" grinder to remove all the slightly loose chrome.  The good chrome under the grips simply wouldn't move, so ended up being ground off by the grinder wheel.

This left a terrible surface, with many small flattened patches and diagonal scoring.  It was no longer round.  I spent a half-hour with 80 grit sandpaper, then 160 grit then 400 grit paper.

It was a slow process, and ultimately finished, it was no fun at all.

Then I immediately primed the bare steel to prevent any further rust from developing on the virgin steel surface.  On top of that I will put several coats of black spraypaint, and then a couple of clear topcoats.

I didn't get a photo of it before painting, but here's one showing one coat of primer.  Looks like its been peeled with a vegetable peeler, then zoom in to see the scratches in the "around" direction.

Final edit - here's the finished bars on the scooter.  That's two coats of primer, two top coats, and one clear coat on top.

Check out the zoom on this one:

The Stem Cap is alloy and it had white aluminium oxide "rust" , so the same treatment has left a different look.   I left the four offset stem bolts chromed and unpainted, because in my experience painting nuts and bolts is a waste of time.


Go back and get fit again. You paid them, it shouldn't be painful. It might be a little uncomfortable at first, but shouldn't be as painful as it sounds. A new stem and stack height may help.


Does the initial position of the B-tension screw matter?

It doesn't matter how it's set when you first begin the installation. If it were out so far that it prevented the guide pulley from clearing the large cog at all, that would be a problem, but you'll see that pretty quickly. The ideal time to set it is after the wheel, derailer, and chain are all in place, after the limit screws have been set, and after the cable has been anchored and the tension is in the ballpark of correct, but before final adjustment of the cable tension, since it will affect how smoothly the system shifts in each gear and you want to see an accurate representation of that as you decide whether to tighten, loosen, or leave alone your barrel adjuster.

Note that we now live in a world of wildly different recommended pulley/cog gaps, so if it's a newer derailer and especially if it's a 1x drivetrain, it's a good idea to check what the manufacturer says it's supposed to be.


Why did my last trip give me a bum blister?

I worked it out - its the cleats and riding a MTB trail that caused my blister.

Hows that?  I noticed today that when there's a mound or little crest, I've been locking up my legs and the rear wheel gets lifted up by the cleats.  When I'm off the saddle, sitting back down drives the chamois pad downwards.

The fix was to wear a belt with my bike pants to hold them up, or to take them in a bit next time the sewing machine is set up.   Or buy a smaller size.  Or wear normal pants over the top of the padded biking pants.


Presumably the Shimano hub/freewheel has an ISO freewheel thread and the Campy hub has a Italian thread. These thread standards are close enough to interchangeable.

From Sheldon Brown's Freewheel Page:

  Italian: 1.378" x 24 tpi / 35 x 1.058 mm

  ISO: 1.375" x 24 tpi / 34.92 x 1.058 mm


Most of your fears are unfounded or way overblown.

  If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3" bump) I might get a pinch flat.

Pinch flats do not occur on tires that are properly inflated.

  I cannot not ride off a curb on to the payment and not wreck my bike.

I do this on both my commuter and my racing bike. Just do it gently and not violently.

  I cannot hop curbs.

I do this at slow speeds with no problem.

  I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers.

Easier is to just not ride through glass. I've never had to pick glass out of my tires after three years of commuting by bike.

  If there is a sizable hole (from glass) in my tire I must use a patch kit to patch it up.

Yeah. But again, you shouldn't be flatting this often. I made it 6,500mi on my last pair of tires.

  I must always ride at 120psi per tire (I weigh ~200lbs).

Ride at whatever the printed range is on the tire itself. Some road tires are fine at 85psi. Usually this involves topping up air once every week (for 120+psi tires) or two to three weeks (for 85psi tires).

  My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain).

Your front brake should be more than capable of hurtling you over the handlebars if slammed shut at speed. Braking power will be significantly impacted in the rain, however.

  I must pay extreme attention to the road and go around bumps.

Way overblown. Don't go plowing into 5-inch potholes, sure.

If you're having this many problems, you're probably treating your road bike like a mountain bike (why are you having to hop curbs so often — it's a road bike, not a sidewalk bike) and you probably have worn out and/or bargain bin tires. Get some decent tires with puncture protection and chill out a bit.


Look carefully at the tire, there should be markings on it that indicate what size wheel it is - generally 700 is a road-bike standard. 26 inch is a mountain-bike standard.

This is a good resource.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheels.html

Also an option is the number of spokes, the more there are, the stronger and more abuse resistant the wheel is generally. Also consider do you have Shimano or another drivetrain- there can be compatibility issues.


What is this plastic part on caliper brakes called?

With the information provided by Criggie's comment I was able to find an exploded diagram of the Shimano Exage brake with a part list.

That part is called (descriptively) a "Sleeve". It's part number 83E 0900

Searching for the part number reveals that Shimano uses that same part number on several different brakes.

I asked The Google as nicely as I could but found no replacement sleeves or brake rebuild kits available.
You are looking at:

Making your own per Criggie's comment
Scavenging sleeves from another caliper
Replacing the caliper
Living with the creaking sound
Duct tape?


Solved. rear derailleur hanger is the culprit.


Open end of a combination wrench should work on the square nut. An adjustable wrench should also work but you'd have to be careful to not round off the nut.
You cannot properly grease the bearings with the pedal assembled. You will not be able to spray grease or lubrication into the bearings.


The number of comments to your question is becoming quite large, so I thought I'd roll my comments up into an answer (of sorts).

You ask whether the seat postures could cause back pains, and whilst I have no specialist knowledge in this area, I'd have to say from a purely empirical viewpoint that the answer must be "no". A lot of people ride a lot of miles on a lot of days, without suffering long-term pain.

But it's not a blanket "no", there are caveats. For example, if you have a badly-fitting bike, this can quickly cause pain.

Plus don't forget, under the large umbrellas of "road bikes" or "mountain bikes", there are many different frame geometries which offer many levels of comfort.

For example with road bikes, at one extreme there are bikes designed to be ridden by professional racers, whose geometry will sacrifice comfort for efficiency/performance.

At the other extreme there are, for example, touring bikes which are designed with a more relaxed geometry, so as to be comfortable for riding all day, over several days, and carrying a load. There are a gozillion bikes in between, and the story is repeated for mountain bikes.

Example: two different road bikes (same manufacturer). The first (left/top?) photo shows a bike from their "road" [i.e. racing] range, the other from their "touring" range. You can see the different frame shapes involved. (The two bikes look pretty much to be on the same scale, certainly they both run 700 tyres.) But if you look at both the vertical and horizontal distances between the saddle and handlebar, hopefully you can envisage that the rider of the left bike would have their back more horizontal (efficient but uncomfortable), the rider of the right bike will have their back at maybe 45° (give or take), a far more comfortable position.


How to fix problem with mountain bike chain falling off gears?

Yeah, first clean the rear derailer well.  Simplest way to do this is to lean the bike against a wall (outside, where you can make a mess), slide some newspapers up behind the derailer and drape them down the the wheel (to keep from dripping all over the tire), then spray the derailer well with WD-40, using an old toothbrush to clean it up a bit.

Afterwards, wipe the derailer dry, then oil it up well with a heavy oil (preferably bike chain oil).

If the bike has more than maybe 2000 miles on it then likely the chain is worn out, and possibly the rear sprockets have developed a "hook".  A bike shop can check for this with a special gauge, and replace the chain if it's too badly worn.  (If "hook" has developed a new chain will help a bit, but the rear sprockets may need to be replaced.)

Regardless, likely the rear derailer is out of adjustment.  It's not very complicated to adjust, but it takes a touch of mechanical ability to understand which way to turn things.  But mainly it's a matter of adjusting the cable tightness, which is usually done by turning a knob on the cable near the shift lever or elsewhere along the cable route.

The other odd possibilities for this problem are that spring has broken in the derailer (or sometimes the spring has just "jumped" off the tang where it's supposed to be hooked), or some jackleg replaced the chain and didn't get the length right.


Designs that use self-extractors and either a splined or lobed interface between the crank and spindle all feature a press fit at that interface to prevent any small movement that would otherwise cause damage. Otherwise you wouldn't need a self-extractor; remove the bolt and your crank would fall off. They're also reliant on the crank bolt being present and torqued properly to prevent them from coming loose.

Preload is managed on such cranks in a couple different ways. A wavy washer or an elastomer can be used to establish preload automatically. These have have the downside that BB width tolerance has a direct impact on how frictiony or loose the bearings end up being. The SRAM/Truvativ GXP design pinches the left bearing and allows the spindle to float through the right one. And then there are the cranks with adjustable preload rings, which are good at allowing you to always have a perfect adjustment but by the same token add a maintenance point.


If you mean 12mm thru axles, they have been around for a few years now but in different guises depending on hub and frame spacing standards.

• 150x12mm
• 142x12mm
• 135x12mm

With the rise of enduro/am/do it all style mtb
It's about creating harmony between weight, stiffness and ease of use.
and a standard going forward that can adhere to modern frame and hub design trends.

The main advantage of 12mm thru axle is that through axles enable you to get a more secure connection between frame and wheel as the axle goes through the hub and almost always then screwed into the frame.

The 15mm and 20mm axle standard is geared up more for Forks. and some come as proprietary technology specific to a fork manufacturer.
Also depending on your riding style and frame dropouts 9mm qr can be weak and flexy thus a 10mm bolt up conversion may provide appropriate strength/rigidity for older frames.


Try stopping with one foot down, leaning the bike over and leaving your dominant leg on the pedal with the pedal forward and up ready for a power stroke. By leaning the bike over you can get lots of clearance. I can often even remain on the saddle.

When you're ready to go, push off with your non-dominant leg (which is touching the ground) and give a strong pedal stroke with your dominant leg.  This will give you and initial burst of speed which will make balancing easier. Take a moment to adjust your position then continue pedaling.

I think frame stand-over clearance is a bit of a myth.  An older frame I use (older road bikes had very little clearance) has almost no clearance under my crotch and I really don't notice as I never find myself standing over the top tube.


Looks like a nice, well maintained bike, however its 1980's or 90 era geometry means its not worth pouring money of a new group set into making it better.
From a learning experience on bike maintenance you may be better to get the bike running smoothly by working on what you have, replacing bits that are worn might be a better starting point. If you dead keen on the new group set, be aware its still an old frame so the geometry is 'wrong' by todays standards.
My approach to this bike would be :

Service headset and wheel bearings, clean and lube chain and lube shifter and brake cables. Check the tires for damage, and brakes are working well enough. Get out and ride it before spending more money.

If I was enjoying the bike, and it was still a bit rough....

Check derailleur hanger alignment
Check Bottom Bracket for wear, replace if needed
Replace shifter and brake cables - probably inner and outer, but could be convinced to keep outers if they not showing signs of age.
Check chain for wear, if worn, replace chain and rear cassette.
Check chain rings - from picture they look OK, but hard to tell.
Check the wheels are true.

All these things are covered on this site in various questions, and Parktool has a great "how to" site for DIY maintenance. You will need some tools, but a you can get bike tools kits that are good enough for a careful DIY mechanic, containing all you will need, especially for this era bike, quite cheaply.


How do I tell the size of my braking discs?

The disc that you are talking about is in fact called the rotor.

Rotor size is measured by diameter, ie. edge to edge through the centre. The size may also be etched on to the rotor which would be more accurate than measuring yourself. There are a number of common IS (International Standard) sizes of rotor from 140mm through to 203mm.

Callipers only come in one size but use various adapters/spacers to fit the rotor. Once you know what rotor you have you purchase a new brake set which may or may not include the adapter you need. Your current brake callipers would use the right size adapter for the rotor you are using, but may not be right for the brake you wish to purchase, companies have proprietary systems for attaching the calliper such as Avid's CPS which require special adapters or spacers.

Additionally there are two types of mounts for callipers post and IS. Most callipers are made to use post mounts while most frames still have IS mounts on the real dropout. An IS mount is like a fin with two holes in it while a post mount is two posts. IS adapters are used to allow the calliper to be fastened to the bike. Most recent forks are post mount.


How to determine the minimum tire pressure if the manufacturer does not?

Smaller tires need to be run at higher pressures to accommodate the same weight. You want to have enough air that the tire's rolling resistance is good but you don't get pinch flats / damage from appropriate road hazards. Too little/much air can affect control to some extent as well. If you have tubeless tires, you can usually run lower pressures (since there is no tube to pinch flat); your rims may or may not be setup for this.
If the tire isn't deflecting, the tire is overinflated. You should see some (but not a huge) amount of deflection when the tire is loaded. Here are some pictures from Schwalbe:

I'd start with some guide like this one from Schwalbe as a guideline (interpolate/extrapolate for your body weight/tire size, and move up / down if it seems over/under inflated)

Tire Width
Body Weight

130 lbs (59 kg)
185 lbs (83 kg)
240 lbs (109 kg)

25 mm
85 psi
100 psi
115 psi

28 mm
80 psi
95 psi
110 psi

32 mm
65 psi
80 psi
95 psi

37 mm
55 psi
70 psi
80 psi

40 mm
50 psi
65 psi
80 psi

47 mm
45 psi
55 psi
70 psi

50 mm
35 psi
55 psi
70 psi

55 mm
30 psi
45 psi
55 psi

60 mm
30 psi
45 psi
55 psi

80% of the sidewall pressure may be too high/low for you; it depends on how heavy you are and what that manufacturer put on the sidewall. However, once you pump up your tires a few times and get a feeling for what tire pressures work for you for your tire sizes, you won't really worry and will have a natural feel for it.


Weight distribution while cornering for maximum grip on road bike

If the frame fits you properly, getting in the handlebar drops should give you the proper front/back weight distribution.  This is of course a generalization,  if you have your road bike set up with and extreme handle bar height then this might not be the case.  For example, if you have a very high stack height (e.g., all your spacers under a high rise stem) with compact bars (i.e., the amount of drop is low) you may have really bend your elbows to get the trunk of your body low enough and enough weight on the front tire.

The geometry of the frame and fork will also affect this as different head tube angles and trail numbers (which affects wheel flop - how hard the bike turns in with weight on the front wheel) will have a different idealized weight distribution for aggressive riding.

Because a lot of this is rider and bike specific you will have to do some experimentation (i.e., empirical approach).  Try taking the same set of corners at the same speed (something safe but still spirited) in different body positions.  Too upright and you should notice the bike pushes through the corner. Too low of a body position and the bike will feel like turn in too hard and may feel somewhat uncontrollable or very slow to react to rider input changes.  In the sweet spot and the steering should feel aggressive, yet still react well to input. You will feel the most confident at this weight distribution.

If you can also find corners that changes in their arc or have multiple apexes this can be a great way to find a setup that turns in well, but is still reactive to corrections (ideal for descending where you may have to make multiple corrections).

Finally, if you find yourself overshooting (pushing through a turn or a bad line going in), drop your inside shoulder towards the ground, this will add weight to the front wheel, which will interact with the wheel flop and turn the bike in harder.  I used this trick many times in criterium races, but will only work if you are not at the edge of your tire traction.


What exercise should I do in the gym to assist with hill-climbing?

In many ways this needs to be individualized. My experience has been in century type rides during the summers over the last 15 years. Most of which are in hilly and mountainous regions in Oregon and Washington. The suggestions following are what I have refined during that period based on experience and significant reading on the subject. Additionally, I work part time as a fitness trainer, and have helped others train for centuries.

During the off-season, which for me runs from November through February, my primary goals in the gym are strength, power and stability. After February, the gym work is minimal and training shifts to riding. I can't provide a complete description here, but here's a summary of my program related to climbing ability.

Strength - The key exercises are lunges, squats and rack-pulls. These exercises utilize free weights, build strength and work the entire lower body. Additionally, since they're done with free weights, you achieve improvements in core stability and balance. In general, these are done with heavy weight, 5 reps and 3 or 4 sets. A hugely important aspect is correct form in order to avoid injury.
Power - Power exercises are for developing explosive ability and speed. An example would be when you need an extra burst on a steep section of a hill. Also known as plyometrics. Here's a link to the basic idea: http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/plyometricexercises.html
Stability - These exercises are designed to improve stability and utilize body weight and/or light weights. Split squat, medicine ball squat, single-leg Romanian deadlift, ball squat, crossover step-up, side-lying leg lifts. (FWIW - I have virtually eliminated an ITBS issue with this stability workout.) For each of these it's 3 sets, 10 reps.

Finally, during the course of the off-season I am cycling through these strength, power and stability workouts. For myself it's approximately 60% strength, 20% power, and 20% stability. How one cycles through these workouts is highly individualistic and is based on goals and one's fitness level. For example, in the last 3 weeks, I've done strength work on Monday and Friday with plyometrics on Wednesday. And next week will be 3 or 4 stability workouts.

The next planned century is in mid May. In March, I'll drop the strength and power training and move to almost exclusively to "on bike" training. The guide I follow pretty closely is The Time-Crunched Cyclist by Chris Carmichael and Jim Rutberg.

And just a note...the workout plan is not specifically and only for hill climbing. Through experience, I've found that the stronger I am going into the "season", the better I perform. Additionally, my other sports and daily living activities are improved as well.

An update...not to belabor The Time-Crunched Cyclist, but both I and riding partners have significantly improved our personal performance on hilly to mountainous century rides using Carmichael's methods. There are 3 types of intervals specific to climbing improvement. Not the full details, but a summary. Mix these into your training rides. Generally, not all three on the same day, and not on consecutive days; but these intervals once or twice a week should yield results.

Climbing Repeats - Done a long, steady climb. Staying within 78 - 80% of Max Heart Rate for the climb with a cadence of 70 - 85 rpm. This increases climbing lactate threshold. (3X, 6 minutes each, 3 minute rest between)
Hill Acceleration - On a long, moderate climb, pedal slowly until reaching the last 500 yards. Then gradually speed up so that you are at near max heart rate. Finish out of the saddle at max effort. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between)
Hill Sprint - Roll at a moderate speed in a moderate to light gear. As you hit the hill, jump out of the saddle and go hard. Try to hold top speed. Increases power for acceleration. (4X, 10 seconds, 3 minute rest between)


Yes, at least one strand has broken. Looks like this happened where the cable was previously under the fastening bolt. Since then, the cable has been let out, maybe to allow for new brake pads?

It would probably last a while before more strands break. But a new cable is only around $5. It's very important to be able to stop your bike reliably, so I would definitely replace it now. It's an easy change to make, cables ends normally slot in fairly easily to the brake levers on V-brakes.


My last 26" tube cost $8 NZ, so not a lot.  Depends how much time you want to invest, and how much patches cost.

Poor abrading/sanding/scouring ot the area before applying the rubber cement will leave an area of bad adhesion, and the pressurised air can find its way out.   I bet you were in a hurry and didn't give the cement 10 minutes to cure before fitting the patch?

Bad patches can be a waste of time too - if they're particularly poor quality or excessively cheap, or old or battered then there's a fair chance you'll get poor adhesion.  To be blunt, 48 patches for a dollar from Ebay or alibaba is not generally going to be a good patch.  Old, watery or stale cement/glue can be an issue too.

If your leak is because the patch straddles a ridge then you might be able to shove some rubber cement down there, and then spend a couple minutes pressuring the patch on.

Problem is that a good patch becomes chemically welded to the rubber tyre/tire.  You often cannot remove the well-adhered patch and do it over.  Your best bet would be to abraid the tyre surface, then push cement into the leak and around the area, WAIT 10 MINUTES, then fit another patch and press it down firmly with a spoon edge or a roller, or a large round coin.

If the patch adhesion is really poor it will peel off in one piece, and you can attempt to buff the tube to remove traces of glue.

If that fails, fit a new tube.   For the cost, its not worth fitting $10 of patches to fix a $10 tube.


I would suggest a serious conversation with your local bike shop(s).

Do your research, identify what you want, and ask them to do a bike fitting and order the correct size for you.

The idea is to encourage them to invest in you while you invest in them. They may want a deposit up front. But if you can convince them to get what you want, you have started a relationship, and can expect benefits such as service when you need it.

If you just buy from mail order or the internet, then when you have a problem that you cannot solve, you'll be stuck. Shops can be a little less helpful when they know the online origin of the bike.

If the first shop wont do it try the next, and play one against the other. If there's only one shop then work on your relationship with them before you "pop the question".

BTW your weight and height are similar to mine - not unusual - but arms / legs / body sizes differ so do get a proper fitting.


It could work, but you'll end up with unsightly cable ties or something to hold the housing to the frame.  Plus the shifting performance won't be great given all the slop that can accrue in a long unsupported housing.

If you're fixed on this frame, how about getting an opinion from a local bike shop or frame builder, as to whether they can braze on some... "braze-ons"   That was how the extras were fastened on in the early days.  Of course all this comes at a direct cost to your wallet.

Price this against an internally-geared hub like the nexus and make a decision based on price.

Or learn to ride a single speed and save.


How many freewheel thread sizes are there?

The ISO freewheel thread standard is 1.375" x 24tpi

Most freewheels I have encountered have been ISO.

Some hubs use "British" threading at 1.370" x 24tpi

If you use an ISO freewheel on a British thread, it will work, but you should check there is enough thread engagement to avoid stripping the hub. The trials-oriented retailer TartyBikes suggests 9 thread is enough (Trials bikes often run a freewheel at the crank using a 1.370" x 24tpi thread)

Italian freewheel thread is 1.378" x 24tpi: Fine on ISO, but even shallower thread engagement on British hubs than ISO on British. Still viable though.

French freewheel thread is 1.366" x 25.4 tpi or 34.7 x 1mm

If you tried mixing 24tpi with 25.4tpi at the same diameter, the threads would be strained and with enough engagement would eventually jam. As the French diameter is smaller, an Italian, ISO or British freewheel will just about thread on but will have very little thread contact and will slip under load, blunting the hub threads.

Metric BMX is M30 x 1[mm] or 1.181" x 25.4 tpi. This is a small enough diameter that all the above sized freewheels will be obviously sloppy on an M30 hub.

I've never seen an M35 x 1 freewheel, but it seems close enough to French that it should work.

Mini-freewheel (Which I've seen on some DMR Revolver hubs) is 1.18" x 24tpi

Mini-freewheel and Metric BMX are close enough to cause trouble. The diameters are within tolerance but there will be strain on the threads and the hub threads will be less snug if you later replace the freewheel with the correct item.

Praise be to Sheldon.


Do simpler casettes have less issues with missing shifts?

To shift smoothly, you need 5 components to be working together harmoniously: the cassette, the derailleur, the shifter, the frame, and the chain. Any one of those could be causing your problems.

In the specific case of cassettes, there is a wide range of quality and capability in cassettes. Many models have carefully aligned cogs, with little ramps and pins that assist in shifting, whereas others are little more than stamped plate steel. Those differences in quality will dwarf any difference between 8 and 12 speed.

So in short, a high-quality setup at any cassette size should have clean, crisp shifting.

With this said, a new bike should work reasonably well right away. Check that your deraileur is properly aligned, it may simply be a slight bit off and that is enough to cause your troubles.


Which grease to use when servicing RST suspension fork

The user manual says "Do not use Lithium grease"

Slick Honey, Slickoleum, SRAM Butter or any other branded bicycle fork specific grease/butter is ideal. Although expensive, you purchase and use such small quantities its probably not worth worrying too much about looking for alternates.

Alternates if you want to go down that path would include any motorcycle fork oil seal lubricant. A general purpose automotive grease will probably dissolve in the fork oil so is not particularly ideal, but will probably work fine if you service your forks regularly (I would not use it)


It seems to me that the thread on either the crank thread or the nut is somewhat damaged.

If this is your daily ride and you are not going to take it for around-the-world-tour, I'd replace the bottom bracket with a cartridge one. It doesn't require any adjusting - great advantage if you are a novice.

Measure the shell width (you can do it without removing the spindle, just flip the bike) and make sure it is 68 (typical BSA).
Get yourself a crank puller (simple tool for couple of bucks), pull the cranks and measure the spindle length (just measure the tapered parts, discard the threads) and check whether the spindle is symmetrical (i.e. the length from the middle of the bottom bracket to the left and to the right of the spindle is the same).
Check what kind of tool you need to remove the drive side cup. When attempting to remove it, remember that at BSA, the driver side has reverse threading (you unscrew it CCW).
Purchase the stuff you need and put it on the bike. The cartridge bottom bracket has its left and right (driver) side marked.

Good luck!


Is it possible to fit full coverage fenders on a road bicycle with V-brakes?

It would help if you clarified what you mean by "road bike", since I've never seen a road bike with V-brakes. "Road bikes" are what many people would call "racing bikes" and they come with either disc brakes or caliper rim brakes; bikes with V-brakes tend to be either mountain bikes or hybrid/city bikes.

Nonetheless, it's perfectly possible to fit full fenders to a caliper-braked (or disc-braked) road bike, and also to a bike with V-brakes. Many road bikes don't come with the mounting bolt-holes for fenders but you can still fit fenders using other types of mount (e.g., clips or zip-tie-like straps around the forks).


Does toddler need a helmet inside a bicycle trailer?

Generally helmets are recommended for carrier usage by manufacturers and governing bodies, although local cultural practices may vary depending on perceived risks.

Helmets are recommended because it is still possible to crash or even roll a trailer, just as it is possible to crash on a bicycle, even if you are riding slowly and in quiet areas. While children should be wearing seat belts within the carrier/trailer, the structures would not provide adequate protection against head injuries, making helmets the last line of defense against a head injury in the case of a crash.


Is chemical stripping as good as bead-blasting to prepare a steel frame for repainting?

Both processes serve to remove paint coat from your frame. The only difference is that bead blasting may (or may not, depending on the medium used) scratch/damage the metal surface of your frame.

If you don't like that possibility, then you can opt for chemical stripping (especially if they'll treat the frame after for effective coat adhesion), but I'd consult with the establishment first on how your steel frame would react to the chemicals.

With that said, the link you gave also advertised giving treatment to your frame to prevent under-coat corrosion, so that's a nice touch for me.


Can this rear wheel be straightened or does it need to be replaced?

That rim is dead.  You need to replace the rim at least.

Being Aluminium it won't straighten, it will crack if you un-bend it.

If you choose to continue riding it then you may get more punctures, and you will be damaging the rear brake pad with every revolution./

If the tube/tyre is still holding air then they're probably ok to reuse.


Road fork, tire clearance for 700x28 tyre

Yes, you can use 28mm tires with Shimano Ultegra 6800 calipers (or virtually any other road calipers).

The brands you mentioned produce a multitude of different forks.  I am fairly sure that most all of them would also support 28mm tires.

However, all of this also depends on a factor you did not discuss: your wheels.  If your rims are too narrow, it will be very inconvenient to remove and install the wheel with tire inflated.  If your rims are too wide, you run a slightly higher risk of interference with the fork.  This is because a "28mm" tire is not really standard or as precise as the label implies: it could be 25mm to 30mm depending on the brand, the model, and the rim's interior width.

And there is another potential problem: you have chip seal roads there, do you not?  The chips sometimes get stuck to tires, and when that happens, you will not be rewarded for having the least possible fork crown clearance.

In summary: you'll have to try it out.  You might be forced to buy 25/26mm tires, or a different brand, if your chosen 28mm ones run on the wide side, or you have unusual rims, or you have debris where you ride.  Consider buying one 28mm tire first to try out, and use it in the back if it doesn't work in front.


Are Suntour XCM30 forks adjustable with lockout?

After experimenting this morning it turns out they have preload but no lockout.

I will experiment with the preload over the next few days.

This question can be probably be closed now.

Thanks for the assistance in the comments.


For context, I ride in the North Shore of Vancouver, BC, Canada, which is an area famous for its steep and technically challenging trails. I'm comfortable riding black diamond-rated trails. Here's an example of one (not my video):

Personally, I ride SPD. I've tried Crankbrothers for six months, but I didn't like the feel, and I wanted more tension. Clipping out with CB is akin to walking up a ramp, where the resistance smoothly and gradually increases until you suddenly reach the release threshold. In comparison, SPD is like jumping up onto a ledge; there is no resistance whatsoever until you hit a definitive "wall" of resistance right before you clip out. I like to be in control of my clip in/out and didn't like the ambiguous feeling of CB. Unlike Shimano, CB also lacks a tension adjustment.
I almost never proactively clip out. I rarely ride in loose enough conditions where the foot out technique is greatly beneficial. I'm always clipped in unless I'm crashing or losing my balance during a technical climb (known as a "dab").
At the recreational level, riding flats or clips on mountain bikes is mainly a matter of personal preference. If you feel better riding clipped in, go with that. If you prefer riding flats instead, then you should do that.
Some of the benefits:

Foot stability. Especially with the stiffer soles typical of clipless shoes, your foot has to do less work to keep itself rigid and held in place, especially during repeated heavy impacts.
Sprint power. MTB involves a lot of sprinting, and the increased number of muscles you can engage by pulling up when riding clipped in helps significantly.
Pedaling smoothness. This is not critical for downhill-focused riders, but if you're interesting in riding technical climbs, you can get a smoother pedal stroke with clips which will help you to not lose traction.
Foot retention. This is the obvious one; riding clipped in means your feet are less likely to inadvertently fly off the pedals.
Pulling up. Although this should only be used once proper weight transfer skills are learned, riding clipped in means you can "cheat" and pull up occasionally instead of having to do a full body movement every time you want to hop/ride over a small obstacle. This is more efficient and saves you energy.

Downsides:

Foot retention. This is one of the biggest sticking points for clipless beginners, who are often frightened by the prospect of being mechanically latched onto their bike during a crash. By training your reflexes, you can clip out during crashes no problem, but it is ultimately going to be harder to some extent to clip out than it is to simply step away like you can with flats. This can be a major detriment towards confidence. Sometimes, riders will not try to ride a challenging feature because "I'm clipped in".
Skills development (mostly for beginners). Being clipped in means you can procrastinate on learning weight transfer skills, which are mandatory. Instead of being forced to shift your body weight to perform maneuvers such as bunny hops and riding jumps, you can just pull up on the clips instead. This façade will be inadequate someday and you will immediately realize that you are unable to progress as a rider because you lack those basic skills.
Makes riding the bicycle more complicated. Now you have to put on special shoes every time you want to ride, and you will have the additional cognitive load of controlling clip/unclip decisions. Additionally, your non-cyclist friends will struggle to try riding the bike and you'll have to explain the clipless pedal system to every single one of your (curious) friends, family, spouse, children...
Fixed foot placement. Current clipless shoes don’t allow you to adjust the cleat position on the fly. This means that you might not be in the best foot position for every situation; for example, you might want the pedal spindle farther forwards during a climb or sprint for more power, while you will want the spindle farther back while you are descending. Flats allow for this flexibility. Another factor is how many pairs of shoes you own: I can only afford one nice pair, so I have my cleats slammed all the way back for MTB riding, which is a position that isn’t always best for road riding. Flat pedals would allow me to place my foot wherever I want.

Of course, your local trails are a factor. Someone whose trails are long, mellow singletrack routes may benefit from riding clipped in, while someone whose bread and butter is absurdly steep technical features or jump trails might have a bias towards flats.
At the professional level, the benefits of clipless in terms of power transfer outweigh the confidence-related side effects because the riders are all extremely experienced. They're not going to be scared of riding something just because they're clipped in. There are notable exceptions to this generalization though because of people who use the confidence boost to ride faster than having the power benefits could.
And again, the type of riding needs to be considered. Hardly anyone rides flats at XC races, while the opposite is true for dirt jumping or other stylish jump disciplines. If you plan on racing or doing any other kind of competitive riding, I would recommend trying both clips and flats for a decent time each (several months minimum) and doing timed runs as a comparison.
Of course, there is nothing wrong with learning how to be proficient and confident in riding both pedal systems either.


Most likely situation is the wheel isn't full seated in the frame. With the bike standing upright on the ground loosen the wheel bolts and lean a bit on the bike which will force the wheel all the way into the dropouts. While still leaning on the bike tighten the wheel bolts. Be sure to alternate bolts when tightening. A lot of times people tighten one side first and the torque causes the other side of the axle to slide slightly out of the dropout resulting in a wobble.


Do I need to put myself through easier challenges/trainings before I embark on my planned trip?

That depends. What is the farthest you've cycled in one go before now?

I suggest you skip your next gym visit and go for a 10 mile cycle. If that works out, take a 20 mile cycle the next time.

  What food and equipment do I need?

A spare tube, tyre, mini-pump and tyre levers are essential. So is a helmet. Use winter tyres if you're expecting poor weather conditions or a lot of debris on the roads. (Winter tyres are more resistant to damage)

Panniers are quite nice, because carrying your gear on them is easier than a backpack and doesn't give you a sweaty back. A speedometer is also nice, because it gives you an easy way to see how you are doing (even the cheapest will have distance since reset and odometer functions).

You will also need:

Water - however much you need so that you can have about 2 litres (half a gallon) per day. If you can refill multiple times a day, this probably means you're fine carrying one litre (~ 1 quart)
Reasonably energy dense foods - Nuts, bananas, etc...

  I am travelling in between two cities in Mississippi. What should I be wary of? Or what can I expect?

I'm not familiar with the area, so I can't help specifically with that.

If you're camping and it gets cold overnight, make sure you have something tasty, energy dense, non-perishable and OK to eat cold. When you wake up cold and your gear is cold, you need some food to help you warming up. Nuts are good.


When I used to ride in a paceline a lot, I had a lot of issues with getting a drink of water while maintaining a straight line. So much so, those riding in the paceline complained. Since then, if I'm riding in a paceline, I wait until I'm at the end of the paceline to get a drink. With practice, maybe this would be less of an issue for me. If you're racing, maybe waiting until you're at the back isn't so much an option but in those situations you have to be very cautious when drafting anyway.


Clicking sound on each rotation of the pedals only when riding

While everyone here suggesting the bottom bracket is the likely culprit (and they're probably right), I wanted to comment nonetheless and point out that this could easily be the less common issue of worn bearings in one of the pedals.

Try rotating the pedals with your hand. If they don't spin smoothly, that's a good indication that you've got a bad bearing. You can try taking the pedal apart and repacking the bearings/grease, but odds are the track is pitted. The pedal will continue to fail. Unless it's a clipless or expensive pedal, just buy another pair. They're cheap.


Titanium seatpost in steel seat tube, good idea?

Carbon seatposts likely produce the most vibration damping

There have been at least two lab tests of vibration damping in seatposts. One, by Bike Radar, tested five brands of carbon seatposts. The second, by Velonews, tested 14 seatposts, including carbon, aluminum, and titanium. In addition, the Velonews test included one traditional suspension seatpost (i.e. the Cane Creek Thudbuster), plus a few other seatposts designed to offer significant flex (e.g. a Specialized seatpost with elastomers). The Bike Radar lacked traditional suspension seatposts, but had some seatposts in the second category (i.e. non-traditional, low-travel suspension posts).

Generally, posts with saddle setback offer more damping. Carbon posts also offer more damping. The Velonews test only included two titanium seatposts, both from one manufacturer (Moots). That said, the titanium posts had slightly more damping than aluminum posts. Also, the more seatpost you have exposed, the more damping you may get (this appears to vary by seatpost model).

In general, do note that lowering your tire pressure can provide additional vibration damping. I do not know if testers have quantified this in relation to how much you might gain from a different seatpost. To answer your question, titanium might not provide much more vibration damping than an aluminum seatpost. It probably won't provide less damping. If your saddle position allows it and this is important to you, you might want to think about getting a setback post. If you must change your seatpost, you may be better off considering a carbon seatpost.

Most generally, use grease to prevent seizing

For anything titanium, i.e. titanium seatpost and/or frame, the general recommendation is to use anti-seize. I have been trying to find out what anti-seize is and why it is recommended for titanium. I believe anti-seize may be ordinary grease with additives like copper, nickel, or other substances. Titanium is prone to galling, i.e. adhesion between sliding surfaces like screw threads or seatposts. To be honest, it still is not clear to me why grease alone does not suffice to prevent galling. Nevertheless, it appears to be commonly accepted wisdom to use anti-seize on titanium. Thus, I have to keep recommending that you do so.

Anti-seize can contain copper, but it can contain other minerals instead. For example, Park Tools' anti-seize is aluminum based. I commonly see copper anti-seize recommended for titanium. I can't find any information on why copper is best for this application. There may not be any substantive reason.

For aluminum or steel seatposts in aluminum or steel frames, standard grease suffices. Oddly enough, per the Wikipedia link, aluminum is also prone to galling, and it would seem to call for anti-seize as well. Nevertheless, conventional wisdom appears to be that an aluminum seatpost in any frame with grease is fine, provided you periodically (usually at least annually) regrease it.

For carbon fiber frames and/or carbon fiber seatposts, the answer is also standard grease. If the seatpost slips, you can use carbon assembly paste, which is grease with compounds that add friction. There appears to be a myth that grease harms carbon fiber. In fact, I was about to write just that, but while searching for sources to back up that assertion, I found that Lennard Zinn, a technical writer for Velonews, and Craig Calfee, who makes carbon bikes, both have said that grease is fine in carbon frames or on carbon posts.


Chainguard vs front mudguard to protect the chain from spray

Chainguard is not there to protect chain from dirt spray from tires, unless it is a completely enclosed chainguard (which is not feasible on derailleur bicycles). A chainguard is there to protect your pants from chain oil.
Should you install a chainguard, then? Yes! It protects your pants from chain oil.
But to protect your chain from dirt spray, you'll need fenders, too.


Has anyone tried this "poor mans" homemade electric bike idea?

No I've not done that, and it would likely be a bad choice for an ebike conversion due to lifespan of motor.

Electric motors have an optimum rotational speed which depends on their design and the number of coils on the armature.

Your wiper motor will have a speed of around 2000 rpm, and it will drive a worm gear - see the excellent photo in @Frisbee's answer.  That worm gear will drop the output RPM to 1/50th  or about 40 RPM.  The output will be a low speed and high torque.  This means the motor wants to spin at a fixed speed, not faster and not slower.

A wiper is also driving a cable or rod system that has half a kilogram of wiper blades attached, compared to the weight of a bike plus rider.  So there's the duty cycle to consider too-how hard the motor has to work.  Remember its a brush based permanent magnet motor intended for forward-backward-stop duty in a relatively cold environment, so running it hard out is not a good idea.

Finally, you'll need to fab up some way to mount the motor and apply drive to the bike.  Your options are

Front or rear hub - not suitable for home job, need to build motor into wheel hub
Tyre drive - possible.  The motor has a roller and pushes that against the tyre creating drive.  Wears out your tyre in triple-quick time.
Mid drive - Attach the motor to the drive chain by a cog and mounting plates.  Downside this messes with your legroom, but may allow the use of rear gears still.
Offside drive - Some of the liquid motor kits add another drive cog on the left-side of the rear wheel, and run a second chain.  These can't pull away from stopped because they lack a clutch, so you need to pedal up to speed before engaging the liquid engine.    This technique would leave the freewheel clicking when pedals are not providing drive.

You also need to consider batteries for an ebike.  Mine had 3x 12AH 12V batteries mounted in the frame, and all up the bike was about 28 kilograms.
More details at http://www.electric-bike-kit-forum.com/post2249.html

If you wish to electrify a bike, consider a kitset from somewhere like  http://www.electric-bike-kit.com/hill-topper.aspx   The $800 USD ranger seems decent, and you can revert your bike to normal by taking the kit off.

It looks like you're not the first to have this idea though.... http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Building-an-Electric-Bike-Part-2&A=111538
Note he had to build an airscoop to cool the motor, and a powered fan for when stopped.  That's a friction drive too, so uses up tyres fast.

Finally - your locality will have some restriction on the maximum power motor you can fit before your bike becomes classified as a motorbike.  In New Zealand its something like 250-300 watts which is good for about 20 km/h maximum.

Now I can exceed my electric bike speeds by riding my road bike, so I sold the ebike parts and use the old MTB for towing my bike trailer.  Consider upgrading your own motor by biking more for health and fitness.


The simple answer for professional riders is that clothing is regulated by the UCI. Part 1 Section 3 of the Regulations of the UCI say,

When competing, all riders shall wear a jersey with sleeves and a
pair of shorts, possibly in the form of a one-piece skinsuit. By
shorts it is understood that these are shorts that come above the
knee. Sleeveless jerseys shall be forbidden. However, for downhill,
four-cross and Enduro mountain bike events,  BMX, trials and indoor
cycling, specific provisions are laid down in the part of the
regulations concerning the discipline in question.

The question of aerodynamics is more complex and is similar to the findings of swimming suits in Olympic competition: a properly-designed swimsuit is faster than swimming naked. For cycling, loosely-fitted or wrinkled clothing is much less aerodynamic than bare skin but well-fitted clothing can be more aerodynamic than skin if designed and fit well. This is particularly true for the upper arms and lower legs since they tend to present close to a cylindrical shape to airflow, but can also apply to the back and, to come extent, to the sides of the trunk.


Given the fact that the outer plates are deformed in the same direction, I believe you're probably cranking on the pedals way too hard when you're shifting.

Are you waiting too long to downshift in the front when starting up an incline? Are you standing while shifting? Are your forcing the front derailleur by putting excessive pressure on the shift lever? Any one of these factors are going to increase your chances of busting a chain. The bigger person you are weight wise, the more you have to be careful of these things, although you can weigh under a buck and still trash chains if you don't give them some love.

Keep in mind that when shifting you're putting side load on the chain links and really torquing them in a way they don't appreciate. You need to let off a little when you make any shift, up or down, front or rear. Beyond saving your chain from breakage, it will also save your drivetrain from premature and excessive wear.