which is better a sram 11 speed or shimano 10 speed FD with shimano 105 11speed groupset

Unfortunately, you should be using a 11 speed Shimano road FD with a 11 speed road Shimano shifter. SRAM will have cable pull issues.

According to Zinn, "a Shimano 11-speed shifter will not work well with a 10-speed front derailleur because the 11-speed shifter is designed to actuate the longer lever arm of Shimano 11-speed front derailleurs." so that cuts out the old days where you didn't have to match the front shifter speeds with the front derailleur.

So, you need to find the right Shimano 11 speed front derailleur for your frame (you're looking for "Shimano 105 5800 Braze-On Front Derailleur" (Shimano FD-5800-L) since the Airnimal Chameleon seems to have a Braze On FD).


What does the truing "release tension" step do?

This subject can be confusing to learn about because people use terminology to mean different things, and some of the physical techniques involved are working to help achieve a couple different goals simultaneously.

When truing wheels, and especially when doing extensive wheel truing or building a wheel, you must be concerned with managing spoke windup, and your goal is always to have as little as possible when you're finished. Good mechanics get it to effectively zero, but it's a skill that takes practice and attentiveness, and there are a couple ways to go about achieving it depending on the situation. I believe the tension you're referring to releasing is someone's confusing choice of terminology for relieving spoke windup.

Spoke windup is when the spoke gets twisted as the nipple is turned and gets held in place that way by the spoke tension. Then when the wheel rolls along and the spoke tension gets unloaded, they'll pop back and the wheel can go slightly out of true (or more than slightly if there's a lot of windup). The release of that torsional load is presumably what you're referring to. You want to get it all gone before the wheel gets put back on the bike.

In actual practice, controlling windup is mostly about very carefully overshooting and backturning your nipple adjustments. With most spokes (2.0, 1.8, and 1.7) it's usually sufficient to only do this the last time you touch each spoke, in my experience. For 1.6 and less I do it every step of the way. (For bladed spokes you get to use a tool to keep them from twisting, so windup isn't an issue.)

Sideloading the wheel by putting it on the ground and pushing on the rim as you describe relieves windup by temporarily unloading groups of spokes, allowing you to recheck it. It's also a good thing to do to new machine-built wheels to keep them from going out of true immediately. It's also a way to destroy wheels if you're not careful, or if you've got too much tension on them. Some people claim that sideloading can have an effect on setting spoke line at the hub to help prevent spoke breakage, but I don't really believe it, and to do that part right at any rate the spoke line has to be set when the spokes are at no or low tension.

It's important to understand that sideloading is more like a quality control step than your primary tool to get windup out, which is your technique with the spoke wrench.

Gripping pairs of spokes and squeezing them has more to do with stress relieving spokes to prevent breakage and also helping get them mated with the hub in their final position, which helps prevent the wheel from becoming untrue.


Can I partially upgrade from Shimano Sora to Ultegra 6800?

Stay with 9 speed. the beauty of Shimano 9 speed is that the 9 speed road levers are compatible with mountain derailleurs and vice versa. You can get a 9 speed deore derailleur and a 9 speed 12-36 cassette and Bam! way more gear range. That's literally all you have to buy (and maybe a cable if your old one dies on removal) edit: you will likely need a new chain as well as your current one will probably be too short (but hey 9 speed chains are way cheaper than 11 speed chains!)

If you actually want to go to 11 speed, as stated above you'll need at least chainrings, chain, cassette, shifters, and front and rear derailleurs. It won't necessarily buy you more gear range though, honestly. I believe the ultegra 11 speed derailleurs can still only go up to 32 teeth on the cassette maximum. edit: as @nathan Knutson pointed out, 11 speed road for Shimano uses a wider freehub body (mountain does not, but is incompatible with drop bar shifters/road derailleurs) so you could not simple put an 11speed cassette on your current wheel


Should I change gear set to increase gear ratio on old bike (2011 GT Zaskar)?

Your specs link shows a 11-36T  cassette with a double chainring with 39T and 26T.  So your "fast" gear is 39:11.  Assumning 29" wheels with 2.3" tyres, 1 revolution of the crank carries you

8.9 metres in 39:11 (fast/hard gear)
1.7 metres in 26:36 (easy/slow gear)

Basically you have a mountain bike, and its geared for off-road usage, not too fast.

11 tooth is about as small as you can go at the back reasonably, so increasing the size of your front chainring is about the only option.  It may be untrendy, but a triple chainring with 50/39/26 tooth would give you  10.5 metres travelled in 50:11 which is road bike territory.

You'll need a replacement 3 position shifter and a triple crank.  Your front mech may or may not have enough width to cover all three chainrings.

The other option is to replace both chainrings on your double and slide the front mech up.  This will lose you the lowest hill climbing gears, but sounds like you don't need them.


Diagnosing faulty circuit in vintage incandescent headlamp

I agree with another post that it is most likely an open circuit to the headlamp.  If there was a short your tail light would not likely be working, either.  Your screwdriver electrical tester is probably for standard wall power and may not detect voltage at this level.  If you could borrow a volt/ohm meter from someone you could sort this out very easily.

Almost every lighting system of that vintage used the frame as a ground, so all you need is a single wire each from the terminal on the dynamo to the headlamp and tail light.  It may be possible that you have the wrong half of your double wire connected to the headlight.  You can twist the ends of both wires together at each end to avoid this possible confusion.  You are correct that the dynamo and the tail light must be correctly wired or the light would not work, so the problem is in the forward part of the circuit.
One other thing to check is the attachment of the head light.  Make sure that you have a solid metal-to-metal connection of the headlight to the frame.  If you put in a non-metal washer or bushing, for whatever reason, it may be insulating the ground side from the frame.  If you want to test the head light, disconnect your tail light and hook the head light to that wire.  You will have to rig a way to ground the head light to the frame, but if you don't want to mount it where the tail light was, all you really have to do is hold the head light housing to a bare piece of metal.  You may not have enough hands for all of this, but if the head light works in that location you know that there is a problem with either the forward wiring or that the headlight and/or its mount are insulated from the frame.  If the head light does not work there, you know then that the problem is with the head light itself.


Front derailleur rubbing against chainring

bottom bracket has come loose slightly allowing the plate to turn.


Feeling of friction on back wheel. Wheel nuts on too tight?

Torque on the axle nut won't cause this per se. Think of each axle nut pinching the dropout really hard between itself and the hub locknuts. On a typical hub, if the locknut were loose against the cone, and/or if the axle threads were poorly lubricated, then tightening the axle nut can cause the axle to rotate relative to the cones, ruining the bearing adjustment and adding a bunch of friction. Shimano internal hubs with their burly anti-rotation washers are normally immune to this though.

Front wheels generally always spin way more freely than rears. All the Shimano internal hubs are somewhat on the draggy side. If you're noticing it when pedaling, make sure the chain is lubricated.

Things that could cause it to be worse than normal: poor hub bearing adjustment, need of internal lubrication using the special Shimano oil bath, dropout alignment causing excess bearing friction/wear, bent axle, something physically rubbing against the hub/wheel/tire, and brake rub.


Best way to hang a bicycle from a ceiling pipe

Assuming you have room to hang the bike vertically by the rear wheel, it's pretty easy to assemble what you need from parts at the hardware store.

Look for a cushioned hanger to put the rear wheel in.

Then Google pipe hangers to find something to attach the hanger above to the pipe.

You could also look for a coated S hook for the bike wheel.


brake seems slack but pad is already close to rim

In addition to all the points Jeff is talking about in his answer, there may be a simple mismatch between your brake lever and the brake: V-brakes require the brake lever to actually pull the cable a fair distance, much more than other brake systems require. As such, if you combine a V-brake with a lever intended for some short pull brake, you will simply not be able to move the brake pads far enough.
The classic cause for such a mismatch is when your bike has been reconfigured from cantilever brakes to V-brakes some time ago, but it may also be caused by someone installing a new lever without being aware of the pull length issue.
If this is the case, the only remedy is to install a V-brake lever. You may check your brake lever whether it is actually configurable to act as a long-pull lever, but most brake levers are not configurable. Thanks to Artefacto for pointing out that there are also pull length converters. These replace the noodle of a V-brake and adjust the amount of cable action.


Two spokes broke in 10 days interval on rear wheel, should I worry?

In general - even if you will hit a few "small" holes it shouldn't damage your wheel.

For road bike wheels - when one spoke is broken you should braid all the spokes again as tension in road wheels is much bigger.

For the "not professional" bikes - you can replace one spoke as tension isn't so big and as important as in racing wheels.


Could it simply just be your freehub? Especially on cheaper hubs, the engagement isn’t very good, so you have a lot of time to build up momentum before the freehub actually engages. This will result in a clunking noise.
Since freehub bodies are decently hard to get to, it’s unlikely that the LBS took it apart and relubricated it. If they did, maybe they used oil instead of the factory grease, which would also result in a sharper engagement noise. Perhaps you got degreaser inside the freehub and broke down/thinned the lubricant?
Check that your cassette is properly tightened. That could be another cause.
Make sure your cranks are securely fastened, and that your pedal bearings are in good shape. I’m not sure what else could cause a clunk on only one side.


How do I know if a given hardtail mtb frame is 'supposed' to have suspension forks?

Before suspension forks became commonplace, all mountain bikes were designed for a rigid fork. Fork length was sufficient to give good clearance between the crown and tire.

Suspension forks need to be longer than the minimum length rigid fork as obviously they need to compress without the tire hitting the crown. As suspension forks became available, frame manufacturers designed frames with higher headtubes to accommodate the longer suspension forks. Over the last few decades common fork travel length has gone from 20mm to over 150mm, and headtube height has increased accordingly. If you look at modern frames and frames from around 1990 it's easy to see how frame geometry has evolved.

So, one can say that a frame with a moderate to large headtube to axle distance is designed for a suspension fork. Modern mountain bike frames are designed for suspension forks with a specific travel and headtube to axle distance that results in a desired head tube angle. XC bikes have less travel and shorter headtube to axle distance, downhill bikes have more travel and hence longer headtube to axle distance. There are still bike frames that are designed for a shorter rigid fork: many fat bikes and minimalist rigid single speeds for instance.

I believe the term 'suspension corrected' comes from the early days of suspension forks when the previously typical rigid fork length used was shorter than contemporary suspension fork length. To replace a suspension fork with a rigid one, a longer 'suspension corrected' fork was needed to preserve head tube angle. Note that modern bike suspension is designed to 'sag' slightly with a rider on the bike. A replacement rigid fork needs to be the same effective head tube to axle length as the'sagged' suspension fork, i.e. slightly shorter than the uncompressed length.

What you really want to find out is what headtube to axle length and head tube angle a given frame was intended to have. If you know the brand, model and year, do some searching on the web, you might be able to find out what model fork it originally came with and what the length of that fork was. If you know the intended use of the frame (XC, enduro etc,) you can look up common head tube angles and use geometry to estimate the headtube to axle length.


Pretty much yes.  Most exercycles or stationary bikes use a mixture of generic bolts/screws and some standard bicycle components.

A cheap crank tool will look like this, whereas the more expensive ones tend to integrate some kind of handle.  You just need a 150mm (6") adjustable spanner, or larger.

There is probably a cover of some sort which can be popped off, or unscrewed.  There will be a 14mm nut underneat.  Or a newer crankset might have a bolt instead the nut and cover.

Once that's off you should see threads inside the crank arm.  These mate up with the black threads on the pictured tool.  Grease and thread them in.  Then turn the silvery end to wind the pusher in and haul the crank off.

It will get hard, just let the pressure generated by the tool do the work.  You may worry that this feels like stripping the thread on the crank arm, and while its very similar sensation it is different.

One gotcha - look down inside the crank arm hole and see if you see a square interface, or a round one.  99% likely its a square meaning a square taper, but more modern bikes have a round interface called Octalink, and the tool for square taper tends to damage octalink.


Are these SIS Mountain/City Bike Derailleurs compatible with drop-bar shifting?

The rear derailleur shifter needs to be Shimano compatible (and 7 speed) if you want to use indexing (as always, friction always works), while the front derailleur will need to be replaced with a Shimano road FD or you will need to use friction shifters (bar ends most likely) for the front.

That being said, the bigger problem is the bike fit with these conversions -- the geometry for drop bars is not the same geometry you use for a bike with flat bars for the same person. We've got some good answers on this here (particularly the one by sixtyfooterdude). You'll also need Problem Solvers Travel Agents or special brake levers for the linear pull brakes, so in all likelihood you'll spend significantly more than the bike is worth on doing this upgrade (which might not give you good fit) -- you're better off just buying a road bike (in fact, on such a cheap bike like the Escape 3, you're almost surely better off selling the bike and buying a road bike unless all the parts and labor are free and the result fits you).


Help in converting Trek Domane 2.0 road bike to be more comfortable and commute-friendly

Regardless of the bar type you wind up with, the main way to raise the bars that much without swapping forks is via a steerer extender, which isn't safe to use with a carbon-steerered fork such as this, especially under a larger rider.

If you want the ability to go very tall, that means a steel steerer. There are some carbon forks with them that would wouldn't be a horrible mismatch with the bike that exist for this kind of purpose. Origin8 makes one.

Opinions are a little mixed about the viability of getting the kind of height you're talking about out of a steerer extender on an al steerer. Usually manufacturers prescribe a spacer limit on such forks of no more than around 60mm and sometimes less, and I personally have never seen any reason why it makes sense to cheat that number using a steerer extender, as the resultant problems with excess leverage on the steerer will be the same. Again as a taller rider, I don't think this is a reasonable approach.

There is not a way to do any of this without re-cabling the bike unless the current cables and housings happen to all be way too long. Also, few if any of the bar types that would make sense for your situation use drop-bar type controls like you have, which is another major expense of switching. And, you're right to look in the direction of other bar types, because it's unlikely you're going to be able to make much use of the drops no matter what, at which point drop bars make little sense.

Unless you need to be on a road bike, I would look at getting something like an Elektra Townie, or a recumbent if you could find one where the seat ergonomics work.


Can this rim damage be fixed or do I need a new rim?

In the photo it looks like you have damaged the rim tape, not the actual rim. You should be able to replace it without touching the rest. The tape on photo says tubeless ready: if you are planning to go tubeless you should replace it with similar one, but if you plan to use tubes, any high pressure tape will work.


what type of bike/frame to use when overweight?

Old-school racing bikes (I have two) are not as comfortable as old-school MTBs when you resume riding, especially if you have a bit of a gut. The upright riding position that the vintage MTBs offer (or a modern equivalent) is one of those things that can keep you on the bike until riding a road bike becomes more comfortable.

When I resumed riding (as a middle-aged adult), I was fortunate to get this at a local garage sale for $20:

With the benefit of hindsight, I can tell you that had I resumed riding on an old-school racing bike, I would have certainly quit. I was way out of shape, and the bent-over position required for riding a road bike would have been so uncomfortable that there is no way I would have persevered. But this Peugeot was just what the doctor ordered, no pun intended. I rode it for about 1,400 miles (about 2,250 km) before upgrading to the old-school road bike.

Of course, YMMV, and you didn't mention your height or your age.

BTW, one of my old-school racing bikes has Tange #2 tubes and I am still around 200 lbs. I put about 1,500 miles on that bike, for what it's worth.

Final thought: you may find this subforum helpful. There are (and have been) many folks in the same boat.


Specialized Rock Hopper (1987) - Service

These are just old U-Brakes (installed at the chain stays as was cool for part of the late 80s). You just need to unbolt them from the studs (maybe hit it with some penetrating oil to help loosen it oFF the studs). Unfortunately due to the placement of the U brake , you're going to need to get another u brake since you won't be able to mount a normal brake that way.


List of tools to take apart a bike to minimise space for storage

You want to remove the wheels, seat post (you may be able to get away with setting this all the way at the bottom or doing nothing depending on how you're storing it), handlebars and pedals. If you can go to your local bike shop and get a (cardboard) box for shipping bikes, the bike should pack in nicely for storage. This video shows you the steps in a nice way visually. You're not shipping it, so you don't need as much bubble wrap and straps and foam, but bubble wrap is nice.

The tools you'll need are likely a set of metric hex keys (mostly 5 mm, possibly 4-8 mm) and a thin adjustable wrench (maybe a pedal wrench too).

To remove the wheels, you likely have quick release wheels, so just pop the lever and unwind it. Undo the brake's quick release and the wheel will come out. Be careful not to let the derailleur get impacted as that can make it come out of adjustment (e.g. don't drop the bike when you have the wheels removed).

The seat post will be either a hex key or quick release. If its a hex key, try the appropriate size hex key (4-8 mm). If its a quick release, pop the lever and unwind it. If you're not using a bike box, I'd stuff the seatpost with a bit of newspaper or something in case critters make a home there. The seatpost is also likely to be greased, so wipe it clean.

The handlebars should be removed and put to the side of the bike. I wouldn't disconnect any cables.

(from http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/moots-rsl-road-bike-review-stem02.jpg)

Simply remove the bolts on the front of the stem (the four bolts on the front of the red piece, in this picture), put the handlebars to the side of the bike and re- attach the red piece (so you don't lose it). You may want to tape them to the bike to prevent them from moving.

For the pedals,  you'll either want a thin adjustable wrench which can adjust to about 15 mm or a pedal wrench of the appropriate size (a combo 15 mm + 9/16" will be fine). Note the left hand side pedal (when you're riding the bike) is counter threaded -- that is, it tightens counter clockwise, rather than clockwise. The right hand side pedal tightens clockwise. Remove the pedals. Wipe the pedal threads and crankset eye clean.

This should all fit nicely into a bike box which would be ideal for storage. Gloves may be nice for preventing your hand from getting messy. To re assemble the bike, do this in reverse, making sure to grease your bolts + pedals + seatpost appropriately.


Must replacement crankset have the same number of teeth?

You are not changing the largest and smallest chainring sizes, so if nothing else has changed a 42/32/24 crank would be compatible with the rest of your drivetrain.

However, I looked up the specification of your bike on Bicycle Blue Book. The original cassette was a 7-speed 13-28 tooth. You may have problems with the 11 tooth small sprocket.

If you want to check, you can look up the specs for whatever your rear derailleur is. You can find technical documentation for Shimano products on the Shimano Bicycle Components Site.

Rear derailleurs typically have the following specifications:

Minimum rear sprocket size
Maximum rear sprocket size
Maximum front chainring tooth difference
Total capacity

You'll need to ensure that your derailleur can handle an 11 tooth smallest rear sprocket, and a slightly increased total capacity.

The total capacity is the difference between the numbers of teeth on the largest front ring and rear sprocket, and the smallest front ring and rear sprocket. I.e., a measure of the extremes of chain slack the derailleur has to accommodate.

For an 13-28 cassette and 42/32/24 crank: (42+28) - (24+13) = 33, 11-28 cassette : (42+28) - (24+11) = 35.


As others have pointed, heart-rate alone is not enough to organize a comprehensive training program, and some preliminary steps (fitness tests, mostly) are necessary so that you can properly train guided by heart rate zones.

The main idea is the following: heart rate is one of the best measures of your physical effort. Each person have an individual maximum heart rate, depending on a lot of factors, mostly age. When you know your maximum rate, then it is possible to calculate the HEART RATE ZONES, as percent ranges of that maximum, which are directly related to training levels. Below a given zone there is no training, inside a given zone you keep the conditioning you already have, above a given zone you are improving your aerobic level, and so on. This can also be used to actively rest during an interval training, when you apply the next effort cycle only after some time below some threshold.

Of course, this talk applies specifically for TRAINING. If you ride only for fun, then you can use the heart rate just to compare efforts, more "informally" speaking. For example, if you ride the same route at the same speed many times, you can look for the higher heart rates and know during which rides you were more tired. Also, there are some ways to measure POWER with GPS devices (STRAVA does so if you provide your weight and the bike's weight). When you relate power and heart rate, you can obtain a measure of your fitness and/or efficiency at a given stretch.

With this flood of data nowadays, the possibilities are almost endless!

Hope this helps!


Rubber sealing in the TRP Spyre brake cable

If the brake power is not very good, you should check the caliper alignment. The rubber sealing is certainly not the issue.

To do the alignment, it’s quite easy with the Spyre. Just release the two 5mm screws on the fork, ensure that the caliper can move from left to right, brake, then tighten the screws while braking.


If I understand the problem correctly (not sure what you mean by "veiled"), it is that the tire is not sitting uniformly on the wheel. This is a common problem, and it's easy to fix: over-inflate the tire by about 10% beyond the inflation limit shown on its sidewall. This will pop the bead into place on the rim. Then let out the excess pressure.


Niner Biocentric I eccentric bottom bracket adapter won't budge

I ended up taking it apart, clean, polish with 600 sandpaper, and grease.  Got it to move / rotate.

It was very dirty as I used that bike to explore the city during a flood.

If you have this setup I recommend you tear it down and clean every couple years and after submerging in muddy water.

Comment from Nathan is valid if it is totally frozen.  But I would recommend a separate longer bolt.

Got the slack out of the chain:


Cycling uphill on a road - sitting or standing on pedals?

You're most efficient sitting with a cadence between 80 - 100 (faster if you can do it) so it's recommended that you stay seated as much as possible. For mountain biking staying seated increases the weight on your rear tire and reduces the chances of it slipping as long as you can keep a smooth spin stroke and not 'mash' the pedals on the down stroke.

Standing is harder on your body but in long climbs it's great to switch it up so that you move some of the force around your muscles and give them a break. Standing is also great to get you up that 'really steep' part of a climb or to sprint over the top and lose your friends (or win a race).

As stated above stay seated with a high cadence for as long as possible. Switch up to standing as needed to give yourself a break or an extra boost of power.


Some googling suggests there's a brand called Price which claims to be "swiss-made"

from https://bikeswitzerland.com/our-new-swiss-made-touring-bikes/
which lead me to finding this head tube badge image

Their website is at http://www.price-bikes.ch/ and is bilingual


How to set up a Kickr Core to work with my Garmin, dynamically change "elevations" (resistance), etc

Yes, you can do this with your Edge 820.

You need to pair the Kickr Core to the Edge 820 using the sensor type “Indoor Trainer”.

Menu > Training > Indoor Trainer > Pair ANT+ Bike Trainer

You can “re-ride” a previous activity recorded on your Edge 820 indoors - the Kickr Core will adjust its resistance based on the elevation recorded in the activity.

To do this, choose

Menu > Training > Indoor Trainer > Follow an Activity.

If you don’t have a ride you want to repeat indoors, you can create a course in Garmin Connect and use “Follow a Course” in the Indoor Trainer menu.

This web page at Garmin support gives the steps to connect the trainer to the Edge 820.

This web page at Garmin support gives the steps to follow a course or activity on the Edge 820.

This video from Garmin shows the process of pairing with an Edge 520 and following a course - it's not exactly the same as the Edge 820, but similar.

You can't do this with your Fenix 5X, however.

You can use the Wahoo Fitness app on your phone (connected to the trainer by Bluetooth) if you want to control the trainer manually.


Need help with putting together a mountain bike

The first thing to note is that the frame has to fit you. Also, the frame and rear suspension should be known to be in good condition before you buy the frame as well - this is especially important for carbon due to its failure modes.

If you don't have experience with this [and it sounds like you don't, given Fox pretty much makes shocks for everybody], you should probably work on this with a bike shop since the assembly process will require tools you likely don't have (and even if you have the tools, it may require expertise which you might not have, such as how to cut forks to the right length). Local riders can also help you spec a bike which is appropriate for the type of riding you do (for example, full suspension may be unnecessary in your area making this frame a bad choice and certain types of forks may be popular among people in the area for good reason).

Generally, when selecting a fork, you will need to match the headset type and the fork geometry to what the frame is designed for. This question has a nice answer which summarizes those things and as does this link. Obviously, it needs to be able to mount the brakes you want.

As for selecting disc brakes, read some reviews on various models and choose one based on your needs.

In any case, voting to close this question, since it is primarily opinion based, highly dependent on the type of riding you do, your budget and your location.


Wobbly splined cranks, yet bolts are very tight

Sounds like wear between cranks and bottom bracket.  Strange its the same on both sides, I'd expect your primary foot side to be more worn.

Have a good look at the interface between crank and BB.  Look for wear and witness marks to see if they're worn together or just the BB or just the cranks are worn.

You shouldn't have to change your chainrings unless they're a one-piece unit with the right-hand crank.


You have to make sure that you're actually tightening the quick release down - it should leave an imprint on your hand when you close it down.

If you put a product like frame saver in the frame, you'll need to tighten it down extra since that makes seat posts super slippery.

See this thread as well.


Does anyone know what model/approximate year this Giant bike is?

It looks a lot like a 2011 Giant Cypress ST

Giant used this frame with a variety of components over several years.
I tried to match components and graphics to the correct year
This bike falls into the "comfort" bike category. Giant still makes a bike with the "Cypress" label but the frame is different.


What is the purpose of the plastic disk between the cassette and the rear wheel?

From Sheldon Brown:

  Spoke Protector

  A plastic or sheet-metal disc that fits between the cluster and the right-side spokes of a rear wheel. This is intended to prevent the
  derailer or chain from getting caught in the spokes, possibly causing
  very extensive/expensive damage/destruction to the wheel, the
  derailer, and the frame.

  A spoke protector is not a necessity on a bike that is well treated, because the derailer can't go into the spokes if it's
  properly adjusted and if it is not bent. Bicycles which are subjected
  to rough handling, however, are prone to getting the rear derailer
  bashed in, and in such a case, the spoke protector can prevent very
  serious damage.

And from purely personal anecdotal experience: I have a friend that doesn't like spoke protectors and has been pretty vocal about it. Faith would have it that a maladjusted XTR derailleur wrecked his wheel and destroyed itself. A spoke protector would have prevented just that.


Can't get enough braking power after lots of adjustment

Render R's are very susceptible to the arm being over-actuated. They don't hit a physical stop like some of their peers, but they reach a point where the cable anchor location is hanging in space and can't be pulled anymore. That you can't get good power even braking from the drops suggests this is the problem.
Detach the cable. Set the barrel adjuster all the way in. Loosen the caliper mounting bolts. Anchor the cable with the smallest amount of arm actuation you can while avoiding slack. Dial in the stationary pad adjuster until the lever feel is what you're looking for as a final adjustment. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts and get your pad gap dialed by squinting at it good. Even if getting free of rub is tough, trying this may tell you why power was lacking.
Like all mechanical disc calipers, this brake benefits highly from compressionless housing. Faced posts and compressionless usually let this brake perform fairly well. Also like all mechanical discs, small issues with the cable and housing setup can result in major issues with power and the levers bottoming too easily. Badly prepped housing ends, or housing ends not fully seated in the levers, can be an example.


Tightening the bolts on training wheels for a child's Schwin bike

Simple answer - do the bolts up tighter.

Bolts for training wheels are pretty hefty, it's hard to over tighten them with a hand wrench.

If you don't have a suitably long wrench that will allow you to get the torque you need, you can extend the wrench handle with a length of metal pipe. Avoid using an adjustable wrench as these can round the bolt heads off. Not everyone has a length of pipe laying around of course. Any good bike shop will tighten the bolts for free or a nominally low charge.


Why top touring bikes have no suspension forks?

There are a couple of reasons.

The KISS Principle

If anything vital breaks while you're touring and you can't fix it on the spot, you're stranded. You're too far from home to call your mom for a ride. Unless you have a spare for the broken part, your options are some DIY jerry rigging and/or praying that someone with a truck comes by who will carry you and all your stuff to the nearest town. There's less that can go wrong with a rigid fork, so less chance of being stranded.

Standard parts are easier to replace and repair

Rack-ready suspension forks are irreplaceable, irrepairable abominations. Ok, that's an exaggeration. But it's definitely harder to get a replacement or get it repaired. Head shock? Only one of the three bike shops in my town sells Cannondale stuff. If you end up in a smaller town with one bike shop (or none) you may be out of luck. If you find yourself limping along to some no-name town in the middle of nowhere, your best hope for repairs is to have standard parts.

It's true that you can find mounting apparatuses (apparatii?) that will allow a rack to mount to a standard suspension fork but they all require additional parts, violating the KISS Principle.

Weight

In spite of (or perhaps, because of) the abundance of gear that tourists carry, there are weight-weenie tourists. Suspension forks are heavy. Or at least heavier.

Efficiency

Another reason is that a suspension absorbs energy, and rationing ones energy is a primary concern of the long-distance tourist.

Physics (supposedly)

When I first got into touring there was a notion that suspension forks weren't designed to withstand the lateral forces of braking well enough to add weight to the fork. The idea was that the forward force of the bike's weight on the steer tube and the forward weight of the panniers on the lowers would flex the fork and damage it. This seems to have either been overcome or disproven, but old ideas sometimes die hard. This is probably the reason that Giant used such a bizarre contraption on the front of their Expedition AT, to compensate for those forces.

Most people just don't need it

Most people tour on the road where suspension doesn't really do enough to justify all the other costs.

As others have mentioned in the comments, if you're having wrist pains there is most likely a fit/setup issue with your bike. There are any number of possible solutions, all of which would be specific to you and your bike. See your LBS for advice.


Maltodextrin.  It is basically pure glucose, which is the only sugar that your muscles can use directly without converting, so it's just pure energy.  It also has no flavor or sweetness, so it is completely inoffensive, and you can sweeten (or not) to your desired level. Look in any sport beverage and it will contain maltodextrin.

A lot of home brewing places sell maltodextrin and you can also get it from websites that cater to racing dogs (e.g. for the iditerod) as a dog supplement, but it's totally safe for human consumption.


Creaking which is temporarily resolved by tightening rear quick release

In my experience, when tightening the quick release only temporarily solves the problem, try putting a little grease between the rear derailleur hanger and the dropout. Often it is the seat post but ruled that out since you said it gets louder when sprinting out of the saddle.  Good luck!


The obvious answer would be to get some Cycling Jeans, i.e. jeans specifically designed for cycling in. These have reinforcement and stretch in the right places and often have other features such as deep pockets, a loop to carry a small lock and reflective strips.

Levi, Rapha, Muxu and Swrve all make cycling jeans, so there's a fair amount of choice.


Will tires with spikes on a loaded heavy touring bicycle puncture the tubes?

The current generation of pre-manufactured winter tires you'd get from brands like Schwalbe do not use 'screw-in' style studs that have a point on the inside surface.  They have a pocket and flange design:

I don't know of a source for actual data on this other than personal anecdote, so I can offer that.

I have never had the stud on a commercially made/retail bought winter tire come through the casing and damage a tube, and I've never heard any of my colleagues complain about it.  But I have never used particularly cheap ones/off-brand, and most people around here have Marathons because that's what the stores here stock.

Certainly with a Marathon PLUS your studs are already outside what is supposed to be an industry leading protective layer, so I don't know what else you could do if it were a concern.

On the other side most of the so-called 'old timers' at the bike co-op will still recommend splitting and fitting an old tube on the inside of a winter tire if asked.  This bit of wisdom seems to be corroborated by Chris H's answer where some people have reported inconsistent quality with Schwalbes.  (Perhaps it is worth the extra $ for the 'Plus' model!)


Aftermarket forks are available for pretty much any bike frame.

To fit the frame there are three things to consider, length, steerer diameter and taper, and brake mounting.

The length is usually measured 'axle to crown', which means the center of the axle to where the fork meets the frame head tube.

The steerer diameter and taper (larger size bottom bearing) have to match the headset bearings in the frame. I believe the 2019 Allez Sprint has a 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" taper steerer.

Obviously you need either a rim or disc brake fork.


What is the best way to train a person to ride?

This is kind of two separate questions on the same topic.

Person 1 can pedal okay, but can't balance.  A Trike might be the solution here.  It almost totally removes the need to balance, but trikes are much rarer, and being wider are less versatile.   Another idea is to remove the pedals, and get her to scooter around like a balance bike.  Optionally the entire crank/bb axle could be removed too else it risks catching the rider in the shin/calf.

Person 2 balances OK but cannot push the pedals?  That's unusual.  I'd suggest putting P2 on a trainer, or an exercise bike so they can focus on pedalling.  Rollers are not suitable because they need balance and pedalling together.

If there are medical or developmental reasons for these difficulties, you might need to consult with a doctor or a physiologist, or someone specialising in whatever condition may be the cause.

If these are young kids, don't stress too much.  Just encourage practice as play and make it fun.


Googling for 'Driveline X Type bottom bracket' produces no useful results so it's impossible to provide direct guidance
Shimano Hollowtech II external MTB bottom brackets such SM BB52 as the are often described as "BB92" type, that is 24mm axle, ~92mm total width. (There are also Shimano press fit BBs that have these dimensions, and Shimano MTB cranks fit in either).
So, you need a Driveline BB that says it's compatible with BB92.


In my experience it may be a lack of core strength.  So you end up leaning on your arms more, to try and lighten the load on your mid-torso muscles and lower back.

Try moving around more at work, a standing desk might help.  Some stretches throughout your work day and before riding too.

If you don't wear cycling pants, consider getting some.  They offer support around the waist which I found helpful.


Hard to tell from the photo whether a light or something else was mounted there in the past. It's certainly possible.

There aren't any modern lights I'm aware of designed specifically to mount to the side of the fork like that. Many dynamo hub lights are designed to mount to the joint of the left/right sides (i.e. the crown) of the fork, but that type of mount wouldn't fit well on the side.

It would be fairly easy to take a small piece of plastic or metal tubing and an appropriately sized screw, and create a small mount that a regular bike handlebar light mount could go on. For a step-by-step example, see this blog post. Below is a picture of their final setup:


Is my local bike shop asking to much money to change a rear cog?

Ah the internet.

Answered my own Q:

It takes about a minute. Yay!

Watch at 2:13: Replace Fixed Cog (broken link)

Instead, try

How To Change A Track Bike Or Fixie Sprocket  (splined).
FIXIE COG INSTALL #3 (threaded)

For DIY: need a chainwhip and a lockring wrench / lockring spanner

...or a multi-tool with chainwhip & lockring wrench!

Done.


Could anyone help me resolve the differences between these two BMX bikes?

The heart of a bicycle is the frame - even on a BMX. Both of the models that you are looking at use high-tensile steel rather than steel alloyed with chromium and molybdenum ('cr-mo' steel).

With a normal bicycle made of high-tensile steel the problem is the weight - the frame (and fork) weighs significantly more than it would be if it was made of a better 'cr-mo' steel.

On a BMX bike the problem with high-tensile steel is not just the added weight. High tensile steel bends whereas 'cr-mo' steel flexes. You need this flex if the bike is to survive crashes as well as intended heavy impacts.

Given that there is a premium attached to 'cr-mo' frame/fork many manufacturers replace one or more tubes in a high-tensile steel frame with 'cr-mo' tube(s). They can then put a sticker on the frame claiming it is 'cr-mo'. This gives the impression that the frame is 'cr-mo' when it might be mostly high tensile steel. Therefore, when comparing bikes, look at the frame and fork to see how much of it is 'cr-mo' and how much of it is high-tensile steel. Get this detail right and go from there. Components can be replaced - if the bike comes with cheap plastic pedals then you can upgrade them to something more desirable when they break for a modest amount of money. So get the frame right and look for something with 'cr-mo' at least in the main tubes.

EDIT:

The GT Article and the Mongoose Performer are very similar in specification. The separate seat clamp on the GT is a neat touch, the frame also appears to be chrome plated rather than painted. Personally I prefer the chrome plating as it can be polished up very easily to remove rust spots whereas the painted frame shows damage that bit more evidently. There is little to choose between the components, so on the basis of the chrome plated frame I would check that it is (and not just painted silver) and go from there.

The slight complication and opportunity is with the pricing. There are new 2012 versions out of both of these bikes. Some dealers may therefore want to discount the 'shop soiled' 2011 models that they have in stock so that they can get the 2012 models in. You may want to look at the differences in the model years to see what those differences are, maybe it only comes down to paint scheme, but, with a bit of shopping around, you might be able to get yourself a deal.


Can someone please tell me what kind of bike this is please?

The date sticker is standard on boxmart junk bikes, aka bso.  They have to recall so many they include the exact date of manufacture so they can just recall certain days of production instead of all of a particular model.


You basically get what you pay for, so there isn't any secret formula. Trek is one of the largest manufacturers on the planet, and is probably as good as any other on the market.

But have a look at, and test if possible, other bikes as well as Trek, because different models have different geometries, and another geometry might feel better to you.

Size also is only really judged by testing, but 56 or 58cm seems a good place to start from what we know about your height. In truth there is very little between these two sizes, so it is unlikely it would be a straight "fit"/"not fit" scenario. More likely one size will feel a bit more comfortable to you than the other. If two frames do feel absolutely the same, the smaller frame will tend to be a small amount stiffer and lighter.

Often with bikes you'll face a trade-off between a better frame or better components. Of course, it depends how averse you are to upgrading the bike after the initial purchase, but be aware that many components can be upgraded later (although it isn't very cost-effective) but upgrading a frame is usually prohibitive - more likely than not you're then in the realms of buying a new bike.


Specialized tri-spoke rear wheel free hub replacement?

Depending on the hub you have in the Tri-spoke, you could just simply replace the freehub body to an 11-speed. E.g. Campagnolo makes an 11-speed freehub body shich is compatible with Shimano Hyperglide. Search for Campagnolo FH-BUU015 and you should find quite good deals on it.


Does anyone manufacture a seatless bicycle?

Most trials bicycles are designed without a seat.  However, they are likely to be uncomfortable when ridden for long distances.

You may want to consider what what you mean by "stay fit".  Fitness must have goals to be obtainable.  Cycling is generally consider to be cardio exercise that improves aerobic fitness.  Standing while cycling is more of a strength training exercise that is less maintainable over time.  I don't know of any manufacturers that produce a bicycle meant to be stood on all the time and intended for distance.  It's not something people try to do often, so if their is one, it would be very small, selling to a niche market.


Which are the best method to patch a gel saddle?

A tight fitting lycra or spandex will cover the damage and can help prevent the hole from wearing larger.

It also gives you the opportunity to change up the look of your bike.
I've never had much luck trying to patch, glue or otherwise repair holes in a saddle.


The popping sound could be coming from the chain not lineing up properly on the freewheel. This can happen if the chain is either bent and or twisted or if the chain is not the proper size for the sprocket. More than likely it is a bend or twist in the chain.


If you remove the stickers it might help show you any branding.

It LOOKS like a reasonably decent, slightly old school mountain bike. The kind worth handing down. People are debating if its a BSO. This means Bike Shaped Object, which is derogatory term for rubbish bikes sold in supermarkets etc.

It looks better than that, branded forks and decent derailleurs, good headset, but should be easier to ride than you commented. Pick up the bike and spin the wheels. If they stop quickly there's a problem, with the brakes and/or with the bearings.

If you take it to a bike shop, they can help identify it and tell you what it's worth. They can get it rolling like new again. I would recommend some slicker tyres if you want to ride on the road - but keep the suspension for rough roads and potholes!


Velocity definitely make 305 rims, and at least when they were in Australia would use their available extrusions to make semi-custom rims to order - most often so you can get the number of spokes/drilling pattern you want, but they would also make odd sizes if the extrusion was compatible. But they've moved to the US and I have no idea what they're like now as far as custom builds go.

SJS in the USA also stock 305 rims and I found quite a lot of hits just using google so decent rims in that size seem to be fairly widely available.

Schwalbe make bicycle tubes in a wide range of sizes with both Schrader and Presta valves - if you can find what you want on this page your LBS will be able to get it (although it may take a while). There are quite a few choices in 305mm presta tubes.

You may have more problems getting a dynamo that's designed for a 305 wheel. The circumference is half that of a 622 (27") wheel so it spins twice as fast at the same road speed, and unlike a childs bike your trailer is going to be used at normal road speeds. SON make dynamos for folding bikes with small wheels so if the Sanyo doesn't work I suggest trying SON. I have one and like it, although I had to replace the bearings after about 50Mm.


How can I tell if my tire is equipped with a tube?

First you may check whether sealant fluid came out of the punctured tyre. It could indicate a tubeless tyre, though it is not always the case. The sure way to tell is by checking the valve.
If your valve is held by a thin screw-on collar that you can screw off with two finger or no collar at all and that you can easily push back into the rim-bed your tyres have inner tubes. Same if your valves have no threaded shaft,
Tubeless valves will look like those in the picture.
They are tightly screwed on and require tools for removal. And as you also see in the picture, the core, the silvery bit comes out. Although this my also be be the case with traditional tubes but not always.


The trouble is, you might be the most sensible, perceptive guy on this earth, with bike handling skills second-to-none.

But you have no idea who the dick in the car is.

As Javier says, play the odds and give yourself the best chance possible.


You obviously need a tire of the correct diameter for a "26 inch" wheel - These may be marked 26" or ISO / ETRTO 559.
Generally you'll want a tire narrower than a MTB tire for on-road use. Narrower tires running a higher pressure have less rolling resistance.
How much narrower is up to you depending on the roads or trails you want to ride on, but you are limited by the width of the rim. See What is the maximum or minimum tire width I can fit on my bicycle.


How can I replace my rigid front fork on my 1993 Palisades Trail? I'd like to keep it as low cost as possible

I am making the assumption that a bike as old as yours has a 1 inch threaded steerer. The steerer is the top tube of the fork that goes through the frame. Older 1 inch forks had the most rudimentary types of suspension. later models used a 1 1/8" steerer which are available and some were of good quality but unfortunately won't fit your frame. Even if you could find the best fork available at the time it would likely be showing its' age. The rubber parts in particular tend to harden with age and replacements if available bring high prices. You also need to be concerned with how a new fork will affect the bikes handling. A suspension fork will raise the front of the bike several inches. This likely to affect the bikes stability. You can try some less expensive thing first. Try lowering the front tire pressure ( high enough to avoid pinch flats but low enough to allow the tires to absorb some vibration), some thicker grips to absorb vibration, padded gloves. It will likely be more cost effective to buy a quality used bike that was designed for use with a suspension fork.


I have found that cleaning the internals, and light lubrication with a light silicon grease works wonders. Silicon won't hurt the rubber


What factors to take into account when choosing a hybrid bike?

A couple of things I would advice on.

Firstly, from my understanding hybrid bikes tend to be very upright and commonly with front suspension. Have you looked at any touring bikes?

Hydrauclic brakes: Yes, they are usually better than mechanical ones. Although there are some very good mechanical ones too, look at TRP's Spyre or Hy-Rd for example. Hyraulic brakes come with their own problems too, which you should also consider. They are usually more expensive to maintain (liquid and tools cost more than cables). They are also not great with sub-zero climates.

Carbon forks usually have better shock absorb than aluminium, but steel forks are cheaper, have arguably the same shock absorb and can easily load them with pannier if needed.

You should be able to get a good entry ridgid steel bike for that price, if I were you, I'd buy the cheapest second hand steel rigid bike and use it for a while. You should then learn enough to be able to buy a suitable bike for yourself in the future, using your experience with the cheap bike as a guide.

You should read this article Best commuting bikes as it gives a detailed description of the different choices for commuting bikes. By looking at the bikes they recommend, you should look at what you might like from them, flat bars vs drop etc.


Helmets with dedicated mounting system for lights, cameras etc.?

The only helmets with built-in light mounts I know of are by Bell, which can mount the Blackburn Flea. I don't know if any of them are full-face. The Flea is pretty useless for offroad riding, it's too dim.

Lights usually mount up with velcro straps through the vents. When I was racing my MTB after dark Ay-Ups were common - small, extremely bright, and a remote battery pack that can be put somewhere comfortable. Not cheap though. Most lights with separate battery packs should be able to mount to a helmet. Check out Bikeradar or something for options.


New high quality tire doesn't sit evenly on the rim

The tire sidewall is just hung up on the rim a little. It’s a common problem.

Deflate the tire until you can deform it a little with your hands, rotate the wheel so the problematic section is at the top. Grab the tire from the side and lever it back and forth. You should be able to pop it out so the bead sits on the rim properly.

BTW, a pressure gauge is a good investment so you know you are inflating your tire to the proper pressure.

Here's a link to Park Tool's video on tire installation, at the point it addresses the bead being too high or low.

            .


There are many different shift cable and housing arrangements found on internally routed frames. For example, one end of the spectrum is bare cables running all the way through the frame with plastic cable guides to route them around the BB, and the opposite end is just a continuous run of housing routed internally. The best procedure is dictated by what kind of configuration you've got, or in some cases what options the frame offers.

Replacing just the cable is easy on some frames but enough of a pain on others that it's better to replace the housing too so that you know everything is fresh and perfect and you won't have to do it twice.

Your best friend when doing this is often a supply of cable liner, available from bike shops, which you'll cut to length, use some tricks to feed through the frame in place of the old cable as you pull it out, and feed the new cable into.


Swapping Rockshox TwistLoc lockout to trigger lockout

Yes, I believe the Top Fuel has a Rockshox Recon shock - Rockshox have a "Remote upgrade Kit" for the job (Make sure the kit matches your shock) . Not particularly hard to do yourself, but you may prefer to get the LBS to to do it if you are no familiar with shock servicing procedures.


I'm not sure what you're after here. Is your spoke type not available on Park's TM-1 Tension Meter Conversion Table? You're after relative spoke tension when you're measuring your tension as it's going to be different at different points from the hub to the rim. 1600N is well within the range of measurement for the TM-1 on almost all spoke types


Road bike's Crank & Cassette on a MTB, what's the catch?

There are several things to consider:

Chain ring clearance to the frame, because a larger tooth count has a larger diameter. Since the chain stay is at an angle, and designed for a certain diameter, too large a ring will come too close to the frame. Anything closer than 5 mm, is not a good idea, since a larger chain ring will also flex more.
Maximum tooth count for front derailleur. A front derailleur is designed to work and shift well with a certain size of ring. There is usually a small range above that which can be used. (i.e. Shimano's 3x XT FD-M785 is designed for a 44t, but can accept up to 48t.)
Cable pull ratio for front shifter/Chainring spacing

There are special shifters designed to allow a road bike drive train to run with a flat bar brake and shifter. But there is no easy and guaranteed way to run a road crank set with a mountain bike drive train, unless you replace all of the drive train parts, and buy road touring flat bar shifters.

It is usually more cost effective to buy a road bike.


It's just a standard schrader head.  Locking heads are only needed for hand- or foot-pumps as you can't secure the head on while pumping the pump manually.

Any well-stocked automobile parts store will have a schrader head for an air-compressor that doesn't require a locking head.  Schrader valves are the same valves used on your automobile tire.

For example, my local part supply store has this kit for $14.  Just walk into a car parts store and ask for the tire-inflation attachment for your compressor.

Note that if your bike has a presta or dunlop valve, you'll need either an adapter or a different head.

Also, be careful when using an electric air compressor to inflate your tires. Your bike tires are very low-volume and it's easy to over-inflate and burst them. Set the pressure on the compressor as low as you can and don't trust the low pressure cut-off to react quick enough to save your tire.

In this case, your specific compressor (the Scheppach HC16w) has a maximum pressure of 8 bar (around 116 psi) and does not have a storage air-tank. Be careful when pumping up low-pressure tires (like regular bicycle tires) so that you don't over inflate them.  You may have trouble inflating racing or road bike tires (100 psi+) and may have to top them off with a track pump.


What to do if you are about to get doored?

Personally what I'd try to do if I saw it happening and had the split second decision making ability, would be start leaning toward the car (assuming the door was open enough) so that I'd end up slowing down by sliding against the side of the car and keeping any part of my body away from the sharp corner/edge of the door. If a passenger was getting out I'd use that body as a cushion, if not I'd try to get myself to go over the door frame as close to the hinge point as possible to avoid upper body injuries at impact though they may be sustained going over the door frame. This all assumes the door is more open than not.

Another thing you should do is practice a Quick Stop so that it's second nature when necessary. This is a technique where you get up off the saddle and get your ass behind the seat and even lower than the seat. The idea is to get as much weight over the rear of the bike as possible and then light up your front brake (this needs to be one fluid/fast motion). If done right, you won't endo. I've been able to skid my front wheel (not ideal, doesn't stop as fast as a rolling braked wheel), but skidding a front wheel is not an easy task and shows just how much weight you need over the rear of the bike. A Quick Stop really is a very quick stop.

The best thing you can do is ride left and watch for ANY movement inside parked cars, if you see any, either slow or go further left if safe to do so. If you're going the speed limit, take the lane and skip the bike lane entirely if it's a bike lane that's left of parallel parking.


So am I right to say that on the front I have a threaded stud and on the back a road brake?

No
As Andrew says, you have v-brakes on the front and the rear.
Here's a picture from the front

V-brake pads come with a threaded stud and washers to allow you to adjust the angle of the pad and the distance from the arm to the pad.
The "ball and socket" design allows the angle of the pad to be adjusted.
The different thickness of the silver washers allows for two different possible distances between the brake arm and the pad.


What's different in women's specific chamois cream?

In many cases, the difference is just related to the scent.

However, some standard chamois cream has menthol or some other "icy hot" chemical, which some women find a bit "strong" for their sensitive bits.  Many women's creams use something milder, like peppermint oil.

Mad Alchemy lists some of the major ingredients in their chamois creams:
http://www.madalchemy.com/


Broken stem tube – LBS "just" lowered handlebars. Is this safe?

Here's how I would fix the problem.  This could all be done by somebody with basic tools and basic knowledge.

Get a quill-threadless stem adapter and a new stem. This will allow you to fit the new stem to the handlebars without removing anything from the bars. The old stem can be removed destructively by removing the cinch bolt and prying the thing apart since it is already broken and no longer fit for use.

Using a new theadless stem will give you a huge variety of stems to choose from so you can find the right length and angle to fit you comfortably and match your riding style.

I'm not recommending those specific products, but those are the type of products you should be looking for. Make sure the handlebar end of the stem is the proper size for the bars you already own.

I got a threadless stem adapter a couple years back for my old bike and it makes working on anything to do with the handlebars so much easier.


Furlough means I don't have one in front of me, but if memory serves the piece with the threads is separate from the main body of the lever, even though Shimano doesn't make it available individually. I believe it's like a reservoir cap and there's a hidden gasket or rubber diaphragm in between it and the lever body, and it's held on by some screws. If that's all true then I think your best shot at a fix is finding another of the same lever that died from other causes and cannibalizing the part. The upshot here is that the 7000 series 105 levers have actually had some QC type issues with the shifter getting jammed early in its life. I'm not saying it's a common issue per se but I've seen 3 of them I handled myself and can remember since these have been out, both the mechanical ST-R7000 and your ST-R7020. Shimano sends warranty units and has shops send the dead ones back. I think there's a fair bit of this going around so there may be some chance for you to find one to swap with. Some might be going in the trash too.

I'm a little torn on whether helicoiling seems like a good idea here because of the risk of it not being able to contain the oil pressure. That o-ring is there for a reason. There are other applications where helical inserts contain all sorts of pressure, like engines, but the bolts are bigger and can be torqued higher there and will presumably form a much tighter seal. So I don't think it's probably a great idea but if you're willing to take on some risk it might work.


How do I prevent my hydraulic brakes from getting pressed/damaged when the wheels are off?

Since bikes are usually shipped to the dealer with the wheels disassembled from the frame, the disc calipers often each have a plastic separator pressed into them that serve to prevent lock-up during shipping. The Hayes company even puts their brand logo on theirs. Since these are removed during assembly, you might be able to ask a repair person at your local shop if they have any extras lying around that you can just have to keep.

EDIT: Here's a link to a how-to that gives the same advice, plus has some photos of the separator in use... http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-repair/hydraulic-disc-brake-service/


Specific product recommendations are off topic here, but general guidance can be given.

The Shimano ST-A070 shift/brake units are for a road drop bar bike, and I assume 'fork suitable for short drop brakes' means you need standard road bike rim calipers .

Generally, all standard road bike rim calipers work with drop bar levers. The levers pull the correct amount of cable for the leverage the calipers provide.

The obvious answer would be Tourney calipers from the A070 range, but these appear not to exist. The next level up (Claris 2400 series) does include road calipers though. I believe Tektro and Promax make some inexpensive road calipers as well.


Look at the angle of the guy's back, that's the key  to why they say that. For performance, the back will be in a more horizontal position.

You need to be careful, though, how much faith you put into this sticker - if at all possible you should try both sizes and judge for yourself. Also, don't forget that different frames, with different geometries and tube angles, will also come into play. If you test the two sizes, and you still end up thinking that neither one fits you better than the other, at that point you could apply the smaller=performance/larger=comfort principle.

This advice is especially true for somewhere like Decathlon, which is a large enough store that a shop will probably have both sizes in stock (or could get hold of them if you ask).

I bought a hybrid bike from Decathlon many years ago, they had height versus size charts then, but I remember totally ignoring them and buying the size that they said was for someone a whole 15cm/6" taller than me, just based on how comfortable that particular size  felt when I rode it. I'm not saying that's how it would be for you and for this bike, it's just how it was for me - it's quite an individual thing.


Is this a good road bike frameset to consider building for a 5'6" rider?

Given the age of the frame, it's limitations in terms of component choice, and the size of the frame compared to what I would expect a rider of the height described by the OP to ride, I would say building this frame is a waste of money and time.

For a rider who is 5'6" tall, a typical frame size is 52cm. This frame is a 58 cm, 3 sizes large. Even if you have an unusual body type which pushes you to a larger than average frame, unless you are wildly out of proportion, you will not move up by 3 frame sizes.

In addition, since the frame is alloy, and 15 years old, at least, there is the issue of metal fatigue to consider. While many people ride alloy bikes which are 10 or more years old, the useful, efficient life of an alloy frame is typically 5 years. Had you owned and ridden this bike for 10 years, so that you were familiar with its limitations, handling, and perhaps attached to the frame sentimentally, I might consider rebuilding it. Since that is not the case, I would not spend the money to build a frame with no useful life left.

And last, if you build this frame, it is likely that you will have difficulty sourcing properly sized parts, or will have to compromise with shims and adaptors to make the build work. I know that 1" stems are getting rare, and it's possible that the axle width on this frame is narrower than a typical modern road bike, although that is only guesswork.

All in all, I see many reasons not to build it, and none to go ahead. But at the end of the day, it's your bike, and your body. You will need to decide for yourself.


"HG" indicates that this is a Hyperglide chain, but it doesn't tell us how wide the chain is, which is the critical question to answer—Hyperglide is a Shimano technology used on drive systems with different numbers of gears. Although you have a 6-speed freewheel, you might not have a 6-speed chain, and outer chain widths are different depending on the number of speeds, although you can use (for example) a 7-speed chain on a 6-speed freewheel.
The safest thing to do would be to replace your chain so that you know exactly what you have (if you don't know when your chain was last replaced, it's overdue anyhow). You can also try fitting this master link, and if it works, it works. If it's a 6-speed chain, I don't think it will work.


Swapping 1994-95 Diamond back sport response components out

It looks like it runs a 3x7 Shimano mountain drivetrain. You can get new shifters such as the Shimano ST-EF51's (the 3x7 version; which are switchable between V-brakes and cantilevers -- see manual for details) or the SL-M310 (in the 7 speed version for the rear, triple for the front; add your own brake levers if yours are integrated with the appropriate cable pull). I'd probably opt for the SL-M310's personally -- I've had the ST-EF51's briefly and the quality left something to be desired.

Alternatively, you can buy the Microshift DS85-7 (grip shifts) or TS38-7 (trigger shifters) and add your own brakes. Or SRAM Attack! grip shifts.

If you're really cheap, just buy a set of thumb friction shifters. Any ones will do. These aren't indexed so you have to move them into the right position to shift based on feel.

I'd also suggest replacing the cables while you're at it.


Training for The Enbridge Ride to Conquer Cancer (approx 200km over 2 days)

Last year I did my first double century, and have subsequently done a few centuries. Before that, I was primarily a short distance rider - perhaps I can provide some insight as to my Personal experience.

First, and perhaps the most controversial, I didn't (and still don't) find it necessary to do a lot of long training rides in preparation. I find that if I stay in good shape and make my shorter rides count (i.e. push hard), I'll be just fine strength wise. I recommend at least one long ride before the event, just so you know what it feels like and are not surprised. Otherwise, I generally finish in the top 20% in centuries and rarely train distances greater than 30 miles (but my 30 miles are on hills pushing hard).

The three things that I had to learn about distance riding were 1) moderating my pace and 2) keep fueled and 3) comfort matters.

1) Pace: If you are used to shorter rides, you know that you can get away with pushing hard. For a long ride, you should never push your legs to the point of feeling a burning sensation. In your training, practice climbing hills in an easier gear and spinning faster. Learn ways to push faster without necessarily pushing harder.

2) Fuel: You can get by with no or little food in a short ride, not so with a long one. Teach yourself to eat consistently while riding. Get yourself used to drinking something other than water (energy drink, chocolate milk, etc), and drink often. You want to be used to your favorite riding food before your long ride and have your stomach used to digesting food during a ride. I can't tell you how many riders fail due to an upset stomach when trying new foods for the first time during a ride.

3) Comfort: After a few hours in the saddle, especially on the second day, little things start to matter. Your hands hurt, your butt hurts, your back and shoulder hurts. Get good gloves, high quality padded shorts, and good bar tape - and break all these in before your ride. If you haven't already, get a professional bike fit - it will make a big difference on your knees. Do not underestimate how much mental drain the small aches and pains put on you.

In reality, though, 200km in two days isn't really that far. Lots of people do more in a single day. Get out on your bike, ride hills, do sprints, and ride regularly and you should be just fine.


You should be able to fit it as the tire width is wider then the rim width BUT you should check if the tire will fit in your frame.


How to seamlessly upload to Strava after a ride using a Garmin Edge 500?

I personally use a Garmin Edge 810 which can connect via Bluetooth to your smartphone and then automatically upload rides to Garmin Connect. The auto-transfer from Garmin Connect then allows your ride to appear in Strava almost immediately, however, this isn't without it's short-comings.

As per my comment on Mac's answer, I have found the auto-upload functionality very hit and miss ever since owning my 810 in April last year. Recent firmware updates have significantly improved the reliability, but it's still not perfect. Saying that, the fact it doesn't hit my phone's battery life is the winner for me.

There are lots of different devices on the market, but a quick look on Strava's own store has highlighted the Wahoo RFLKT which connects to your smart phone. Without a connection to your smart phone, the Wahoo is essentially useless. However, it would appear to be quite good as it allows a direct connection with your Strava app (displaying data that the app outputs), only costs $99 and then you have the piece of mind that your data will ultimately end up in Strava as soon as you finish your ride. This again has it's own cons as you need to use your phone as the main cycle computer, ultimately draining your battery quite rapidly.

It then really comes down to an argument of which appears more useful. A standalone bike computer with the ability to auto-upload when paired with a mobile phone, or a computer which simply displays data outputted by the Strava app at the sacrifice of your phone's battery life.

Wahoo RFLKT on the Strava store

Other alternatives on the Strava store


The lever came off my thru axle. Now what?

Does not sound like a great design, presumably the lever was supposed to be tightened onto the axle body tighter than the axle in the fork.

Two possible methods to get the axle body out:

Use a threadlocker such as Loctite to bond the lever to the axle body. There are two kinds of Loctite: Blue and Red. Blue is weaker and designed for preventing fasteners vibrating loose. Red is stronger, designed to be more permanent and is loosened with heat. Red may be appropriate in this case.
Find a bolt that fits the internal thread of the axle body and a nut and washer that fits the bolt. Put the nut and washer on the bolt, screw the bolt into the axle (in place of the lever) tighten the nut against the axle as a locknut (with the washer between the nut and axle to protect it). Hopefully when you back the bolt out the axle with come with it.


How to prevent my bike from tipping over when using just one pannier?

You have a few options here.

You can get a two-legged kickstand. These are primarily used with heavy touring loads, but they will help stabilize the bike when parking with an uneven load. The two legs fold up into each other when you disengage the kickstand. You generally cut these with a hacksaw to shorten them to the appropriate length. I used one for a while:

However, that may be overkill. You might look into what's sometimes called a brake-band by the maker of the Click-Stand, an add-on for a parking stand for touring bikes. (The stand itself - a kind of tent-pole-like thing with a rest on the end that the bike leans into - would likely be overkill for am everyday use like this.)

This'll hold the brakes on while the bike is parked, and stop the bike from rolling while parked. (You can purchase them from the click-stand site, or just make your own with pieces of velcro.) Here they are, hanging on the side of my bike in between uses:

Finally, if you're not too picky about your paint job, you can simply decide to go without a kickstand and just lean your bike against a wall or a pole, or lay it on the ground.


How much does it cost to race in the Tour de France?

It's hard to come up with an exact number, but you could likely get a team in for $10 million dollars or slightly less.  The figures I have seen for "average" budgets are usually around $20 million.  Most estimates place over 50% of the budget in salaries, with larger name riders making more.  A Tour de France team is 9 riders, however, pro teams generally consist of more riders and the best 9 (currently available) are chosen for the race if the team is invited.  However, a UCI pro tour team needs to have a minimum of 25 riders and a max of 30.

Officially there is no "cost" ,per se, for racing in the Tour de France.  Teams are invited.  However, the costs are associated with getting a UCI licensed pro cycling team, which must have a full time staff and meet minimum requirements.  Theoretically a person with near magic insight could assemble a team of unknown riders and staff for around the $10 million minimum.  However, it's likely that if the team did well enough to actually be competitive, riders and staff would be snapped up by teams with larger budgets the next year, likely gutting the team.

For a minimum 25 rider team, you are probably looking at ~$2.5 million for minimum rider salaries and salaries for a staff plus UCI fees (severely lowballed).  That's roughly $100K per rider and wouldn't cover travel costs, facilities or anything else.  ~$10 million sounds closer to covering all those things.  Or roughly $400k per rider for your 25 rider squad, only 9 of which you will send to the Tour de France.  As asked, the question is difficult to answer, because although you may need roughly ~$400k per rider for your Tour team, you have to have an additional 16 riders on staff to be considered for invitation (all at the same minimum cost).


Finding DISTANCES on longer bike/hike paths

I use Google maps (set to 'cycling mode') and Strava to plan routes. Both try to find the 'best' route between the start and end points but allow fine control of the route by setting intermediate waypoints.

Each will give you details of the route including distance and a gradient profile.

Google maps tends to find routes based on cyclepaths, bike friendly roads and trails. Strava uses its 'heat map' built up from recorded rides. Both have their pros and cons.  It can be a bit of a struggle to get both Google maps and Strava to adhere to a specific route, but it is doable with judicious placement of waypoints. Strava can be made a little more controllable by turning the 'use popularity' option off.

I tend to use Strava if I want to upload the route to my Wahoo bike computer app.

I've not used RideWithGPS but I assume it has the same fine control over route planning.


Replacement battery for Cygolite Milion light?

I found the model number for the Milion battery via a search on the Wayback Machine. It's 426-44LN, which is different than the Expilion battery.


In terms of the rear derailleur, you will need to determine the capacity you need.

To do that, add together the teeth in largest rear cluster and largest chainwheel to get the max teeth you have.  Then add together the small rear cog and the smallest chainwheel to get the min teeth you have.  Subtract the min from the max.  That is your capacity needed.

You can then go on to the Shimano site and gets the specs for the derailleur you are interested in to see if it has enough capacity.  You will also need an 11 speed chain cut to fit.


Are full carbon forks less prone to failing from hidden defects than those with alloy steerers?

Short answer: no.
Longer answer: not always.
Proper answer (IMO), with full disclosure and explanation (of the reasoning):

In the presence of electrolyte, aluminium will galvanically corrode with carbon. First (old) versions of alu-carbon combinated parts were more often prone to this. Good sealing and carbon-aluminium interface design can help prevent this. Nowadays there's no rule of thumb - both for alu-carbon and for full carbon forks and frames. Some are well designed and well manufactured so they last long. Some are not.

Digression:
While with steel and aluminium manufacturers have come up with methods of designing and building frames so that even if they fail, cracks first show up on the outside (small, like a thin hair-thickness line, but visible with "naked eye"), and pre-ride checkup is all that's needed, with most carbon parts this is still not the case. Which is the scary part - parts failing catastrophically without prior warning. Don't want to do any fear mongering, modern good quality parts of renowned manufacturers are a safer bet and carbon is the frame material of the future IMO, just take a bit more caution when buying and using. Explained in digression 2 part.

Digression 2:
Testing carbon parts for flaws.
Tapping test can show some flaws, but not all. Ultrasonic scans are a safer way of determining faults. As is explained in this Tapping Test Youtube video.
Long, a bit tedious to watch, but very instructive video on carbon parts care, inspection and problem causes is this one: Cutting up expensive carbon frames.

Digression 3:
Care of carbon.
Having chosen a good quality part (whether frame, fork, bars, seatpost...) from a reputable manufacturer, care still needs to be taken.
Using copper mounting paste for good grip with optimal pinch bolt tension when mounting parts (except on stems, for reasons explained nicely in this article - in the comment section I've had a very good and informative discussion with the author and learned a few things - Headset bearings don't last forever).
Beware of any paint scratches and chips - it is needed to protect moisture from entering. Moisture delaminates fibres from the inside, making carbon parts fail. It also protects the resin and epoxy glue from disintegration by sun rays (modern carbon parts have UV blocks added within the material as well, but to be on the safe side...). So paint touch ups using paint that won't harm the epoxy is a recommended. Metals will show visible rust signs on the outside, while carbon parts will start delaminating on the inside very often, without visible signs until it's very late.


I have sold a small quantity of electric bicycles over the years (including one to a 83 year old woman). Were these profitable sales, from the bike-shop's point of view? Not really...

Frame + Extras

Cost is different to price, clearly the bicycle costs more to build, e.g. in Giant's top-class Taiwan factory on a relatively limited production run. As mentioned in other answers, there is the motor, the batteries and control gear. On top of that there is also a more expensive frame. The frame has more 'braze-ons' to mount the electric running gear. It is also extra tough so that the frame and fork can survive (force = mass x acceleration and an electric bike goes quicker with extra mass). This frame/fork combination is also unique to the electric models whereas, on a normal bike, the frame may be shared across a model range.
As well as the frame/fork being different, the wheels and tyres are up-rated, this may not actually cost that much more rubber and aluminium, however, these parts are model specific, limited run for the manufacturer, possibly specially made by the suppliers.
As of yet there are no electric bikes that make use of the frame to carry the battery, typically this has to have a rack and extra packaging to attach it to the bicycle. These parts cost money, again they are also bespoke.
The batteries can use Lithium, NiMh or even lead-acid, clearly with cost differentiation, the Lithium cells costing more.

As of yet we have not left the factory with our electric bicycle, the extra parts and Far Eastern labour may not actually amount to a lot in absolute terms, however the factory-cost will be a significant multiple of the regular mass-market mountain/hybrid bicycle cost. The parts cost more as does the assembly line.

Shipping: Weight and size

When we come to ship the electric bicycle half-way around the world, there is approximately twice the cost, whether the shipping is priced by weight or volume. This is because the electric bicycle weighs more and needs a much bigger box (compared to a typical MTB that ships with the bars/front-wheel/seat/pedals removed and no mudguards). Interestingly there is less EU 'anti-dumping' duty on electric bikes than normal ones, so no added cost there (and if you wondered why some bikes come from Macau you now know...). Some money does have to be paid to get the boxes out of Felixstowe, on the back of the lorry and up to the warehouse, again this is slightly more than the regular MTB or hybrid, but not massively so.

Warehousing margins

Now, this is where the costs get interesting. The bike arrives at the wholesaler or distributor and gets put into a warehouse until a retailer orders it. The wholesaler has price tiers for their 'B2B' customers (the shops) and these will be different depending on sales volumes, e.g. the big chain will get an extra 10-20% off the 'trade price' compared to the family-run lower volume shop. Because the product has a list price then this discount is unlikely to be passed on to the end customer, however, it does give the volume retailer that bit more room come end-of-season sales.

Notionally the wholesaler/importer/distributor is just importing boxes, putting them in a warehouse and sending them out again. In an ideal world they would charge just a flat fee for this, however, the more expensive boxes tie up more capital, they also tend to linger in the warehouse longer. This means they cannot be marked up by the wholesaler with a 'per box' price. Typically a standard margin is applied to the products, exactly what this margin is may seem high to someone outside of the trade, however, the tax man has a slice of that and some of that margin may be swallowed up by currency fluctuations.

Expensive, Niche Product

When the retailer buys the electric from the company owning the big warehouse they may be buying just the one - most bicycle shops cannot afford the showroom space or the capital cost to have a range of electric bicycles. For this reason it is unlikely that a good deal is done due to bulk purchasing. The delivery to the bike shop may be relatively expensive too - delivery with all couriers in the UK is by weight. So we have double the cost on this leg of the journey when compared to the regular bike.

The retailer has what seems a good bit of money to make on the electric bicycle. However, walk-in customers have not arrived for an electric bike, they are there for normal bikes. They may not even be aware that electric bikes are on offer too. Walk-ins just don't ask for an electric bike - customers wanting touring bikes or tandems are rare, customers wanting electric bikes are rarer too for the regular bicycle shop. To change this situation requires promotion, i.e. advertising, a window display and sales staff training. With the exception of retailers that have gone out of their way to push electric bike sales, this does not happen.

Training / Support

As well as the sales staff having to be able to know how to sell an electric bike the mechanics in the back room have to know how to make them showroom ready. Then, should a sale come along, the bike has to be checked to make it safe. Additionally, the bike will collect quite a bit of dust waiting for a customer and be subjected to test rides by potential customers. This total time will be a lot more than with the regular bike because the electric bike is not so familiar to the workshop team. It is unlikely that this time is costed, however, it all adds up. Hence the eventual sale is unlikely to be discounted (unless the shop is small and desperate for some extra cashflow that week or the model is end of season and needs to be shifted). The taxman also takes his cut, 20% VAT is not a lot of money if buying a 'Bicycle Shaped Object' (cheap bike), but is a lot of money if buying an electric bicycle.

Margin Pricing

If we work through the above steps starting with one small component, e.g. a washer that costs a penny. Its cost could be ten pence by the time it has been fitted onto the bike, maybe up to twenty pence to get to the warehouse in Milton Keynes. Because of how margin costing works, the washer could then cost forty pence by the time it gets to the showroom. On the face of it, it seems ludicrous that a penny washer now costs forty times as much, however, along the way nobody has been greedy (maybe with the exception of the taxman, but that is government protection rackets for you - lots of wars to pay for).

Although the maths has been simplified with the 'washer' example, costs go up from component supplier to the cycle manufacturer to the distributor and to the dealer with the maths being multiplication (by a margin) rather than addition (of a handling fee) at most steps. That is how it works.

Clearly, to save costs a cheaper washer could be used - one that costs the factory 0.5 pence - and it could be fitted to the bike by someone in mainland China costing less than the Taiwanese worker. The factory too could be cheaper - with less capital tied up in the building/land. This 'cheaper and nastier' product could then enter the supply chain to be marked up with margins at the importer-distributor-wholesaler-retailer steps. Given that the product is not really one that anyone really wants, some incentives exist in the supply chain, e.g. higher margin for the retailer. Hence the 'cheap' electric bike - as sold by certain High Street chains - might be a complete rip-off with the worst components and the fattest of profits for someone in the chain.

You might suspect that parts and training would factor into the costs, but it does not do so directly. Sales and workshop staff in the bike shop are unlikely to have had any training on how to look after customers for electric bikes. The spare parts are not likely to be kept in the cycle shop - these will be special order from the wholesaler. The wholesaler will be able to sell these spares profitably and - if they know what they are doing - keep sufficient spare parts stocked appropriate for demand.

The price is Actually Reasonable

We are a long way off monopoly pricing with electric (and normal) bicycles, due to competition in the marketplace the pricing is nearer 'cost + acceptable profit' rather than 'what the market will tolerate'. Electric bikes are not expensive per se. With the exception of walking (and maybe container freight) there is no cheaper transportation going. Arguably normal pedal cycling is more expensive than electric bike cycling, however, this depends on how you value your time. Electricity to charge and electric bike costs less than a Mars Bar (or other calorific food equivalent).

In the showroom electric bikes are somewhat clunky feeling, but once you go on the road with them and put the motor on the bike feels as light as a feather, particularly up hills.

My advice for getting an electric bike cheaply is to do so through government 'bike to work' scheme. This is where your employer buys the bike and gets the tax back. Effectively you get the bike at 50% retail price, with actual ownership of the bike being between you and your employer. Typically they let you have it.


How much can I reuse paraffin to wax to my chain?

Paraffin wax is not a single chemical, rather it is a mix of alkanes with the formula CnH2n+2, having between 20 and 40 Carbon atoms. Commercially available Paraffin wax may also contain additives to raise melting point (normally 37 °C, 99 °F) or reduce brittleness (often stearic acid as found in tallow).

It's possible that when you immerse your chain, the longer alkanes are more likely to be retained in the chain. The stearic acid molecule (C17H35CO2H) is only 18 Carbon atoms long, but the O and OH groups may increase the chances of it adhering to a surface.

Alkane cracking might also be occurring, catalysed by some impurity in the pan or chain, breaking the longer molecules up into shorter alkanes. Paraffin's density should be about 0.9g per ml. Alkanes from C5-C16 (inc octane, decane) are liquid at 20 °C with density 0.63 to 0.77 g/ml. The shortest Alkanes are gases: Methane, Ethane, Propane, Butane. With an accurate scale you may be able to detect a difference in volume between your used wax and the same volume of fresh wax.


SRAM groupset equal to Ultegra R8000 series?

This is an easy question to answer: SRAM Force is equivalent to Shimano Ultegra. Here is one link from BikeRadar. Some sample quotes:

  Going up in price to Ultegra-level, SRAM’s Force group uses lightweight materials such as high-grade alloys and carbon fibre to be a very competitive gear setup. ... In 2019, SRAM added Force eTap AXS to its range, a 12-speed wireless groupset which competes directly with Shimano Ultegra Di2.

How about this variation on the original question: does Force provide a similar value as Ultegra when you compare it to the top-tier group? Probably yes. Bike Radar says that the eTap (i.e. electronic wireless) groups share the same motors, but Force has cheaper materials in some parts, and some items are constructed differently. Notably, Red's power meter is integrated with the chainrings, so you buy (and replace!) chainrings plus power meter when any one of the rings wears out. This is a new development and SRAM says it improves accuracy. At the same link, Force has the traditional setup where the power meter spider is separate from the chainrings (i.e. similar to the spider-based power systems from Quarq and Power2Max, which have good reputations). Force also has more limited chainring options that are more appropriate for amateurs (whereas Red's larger chainrings cater to pro cyclists). Functionally, the testers in the links above report that Force seemed very similar to Red. I believe reviewers would say the same about Ultegra vs Dura Ace, and about Force mechanical vs Red mechanical.

The answer is a bit more complex if you consider Campagnolo. If you just picked the second groupset from the top, you'd compare Ultegra and Force to Record. This would be misleading. Those groupsets are comparable to Campagnolo Potenza, as evidenced by this review on Cyclingtips comparing Potenza to Ultegra 6800 (the then-current Ultegra version) and SRAM Force.

I will find a source for this if people ask for it, but my impression is that Chorus, Record, and Super Record are functionally the same, but the materials get more expensive as you go up. Super Record has a bunch of titanium fasteners, a titanium crank spindle, and multiple ceramic bearings. Record loses some of that, especially the ceramic bearings. Chorus arguably compares with Dura Ace and Red. My impression is that Record and Super Record aren't functionally better than Chorus, but they are a bit lighter, and they're much more expensive. In contrast, Potenza has a different shifting mechanism than Chorus (Potenza and Centaur have Powershift, which lets you go down one cog per shift, but Chorus and higher have Ultrashift, which can dump several cogs per shift). Potenza and lower groups also use aluminum in some derailleur components, whereas Chorus has some carbon parts in the rear derailleur, and Record and SR get more carbon. Potenza also doesn't have an electronic shifting version.

Does Potenza provide a better value than Ultegra? The review I linked said that both groups were about equal, and that's consistent with other reviews I've read. Potenza will likely provide a similar relative value (when compared to the top tier Campagnolo groups) as will Shimano Ultegra or SRAM Force. I believe that in the US, Potenza retails for more than Ultegra does, but note that not many riders buy groupsets separate from frames and install them. So, for an average rider with no strong preference about shifting mechanisms, Potenza probably isn't as good an absolute value as either Ultegra or Force. This probably generalizes across other groupsets. For example, Bianchi's Aria road bike with a Centaur rim brake groupset has an MSRP of US$3,000. The 105 rim brake version is $2,600. The 105 disc version is $2,900. I believe all the finishing kits are the same across these bikes; the wheelset for the 105 disc version is different than the Centaur and the 105 rim versions (the latter two share the same wheelset).

There are soft factors that can sway a decision one way or another. Potenza mechanical shifters don't have adjustable reach, which pushed me away from Campagnolo groupsets in general (although Campagnolo hydraulic brake levers  have adjustable reach). Some people do genuinely prefer Campagnolo's shifting mechanisms to Shimano's. Some may prefer the shape of one brand's levers over others. It's been my experience that Campagnolo's rim brakes modulate better than Shimano's (i.e. with Campagnolo you can vary your braking power more finely, whereas Shimano's brakes tend to develop power quicker and tend to be a bit more off/on as a result; this is based on my opinion from having operated both Campy and Shimano groups and from statements of others). Potenza and Centaur are available with a matte silver finish, which can go better visually with steel or titanium bikes. The highest level Shimano group with a silver finish is 105.


Are thru-axles generally hollow or solid?

Thru Axles are a standard for wheel fasteners that was introduced fairly recently for MTB and later for road bikes. Today thru axles come typically in 15 mm or 12 mm diametres.

If you mean thse, they are indeed always hollow. Any solid bolt with such a large diametre would be excessively heavy. Even when using light magnesium alloys.

The whole innovation of thru axles revolves around that when having a structural element of sufficient size one may do without its core. In other words, a tube of a large radius is under many loads stronger than a slimmer rod of the same mass and material. In the case of a hub axle one can rule out loads (e.g. shearing) where a rod would be stronger.


I don't know of a source which sells these parts new, but...

As a volunteer at the local bicycle co-op we literally have a bins full of old freewheels and sell them for a few $$$.  If you have a bicycle non-profit near you, I would be surprised if you cannot find a couple similar freewheels which you could use for donor parts.

There are Facebook groups which cater to vintage bicycles and many folks in those groups either sell vintage parts or know others who might have a source.  Here are a couple:

The Vintage Mountain Bike FB Group

Vintage Cream FB Group

You could also check with some of the online groups.  The Velocipede Salon has A LOT of members who are (were?) long time bike builders, mechanics and shop owners.

Velociped Salon Group

Good luck with your search and feel free to contact me directly and I can see if the Co-Op has a similar freewheel.


If the width of tires you want to run are a little narrow for a 35mm rim, a 38mm rim could cause problems, otherwise there are no issues I can think of.