isn't a fixie without a full chain guard a safety hazard?

You're not exaggerating the risk as far as what would happen to the object that managed to get jammed in to a fixie drivetrain at speed. You are perhaps exaggerating the risk of that happening, though.

I don't see many objects managing that feat, without serious planning on someones' part, and unless it's flesh and bone, or something that was hard enough that the chainring wouldn't cut through it, then there would be minimal harm.

If a stick gets caught in the chain ring, it will get cut in half. So what if it does? Nothing will happen to the rider, and even the chance of damage to the bike is minimal. Same thing with brush. Unless it's large enough to stop you pedaling, then it's not a problem. And since fixies are rarely ridden off road, the chance of these 2 things happening would be pretty remote.

I've had my pant's leg get caught in a fixie chainring, and all it did was tear the pants, and teach me to choose better what clothing I ride in.

There's no real harm to a chainguard, but not a lot of benefit either that I can see, so if you want one, go for it, but I'll be fine without. I'd say the lack of brakes is a far bigger hazard when riding on the road.


How often should I change brake cables and housing?

I encourage replacing once there is a noticeable decline in performance (usually that means that they get "sticky").

Depending on the type of elements you go through, you might get back most of the perf by pulling the cable most of the way out, adding a drop of thin oil, then sliding the cable back through all the housing. Repeat a couple of times wiping cable each time. This will often clear the bits of gunk that are making it sticky.

Changing shift cables/tape at same time:
Tape...absolutely, it's cheap and I always feel like I've treated my bike nice when it's sporting new wrap.

Shift cables...if they are in good shape and the drive train is clicking along nicely, I tend not to mess with it. If they are getting sluggish like the breaks, then I'd go ahead. Keep in mind on the shift cables that they will stretch a bit so you will need to tighten the cable and possibly do a slight retune of the drive train a bit after a few days.


Is there a special technique for truing flat spoked wheels?

The only real difference is that you want to make sure the spokes don't twist. Ksyriums come with a little fork dealy so you can hold the spoke straight (at least mine did). With others, you'll have to improvise your own tool--pliers with plenty of tape on the jaws so you don't scratch the spokes would do it. Hold the spoke on the flat part nearest the nipple to keep the spoke from twisting.

Otherwise, technique should be the same.

If your wheel won't stay true, you should probably check your spoke tension. If it's too low and/or particularly uneven, you'll never get it to stay true even if you can get a temporary true on the workstand. You want to watch also for spoke wind-up, which is where the spoke twists instead of turning within the nipple and tightening or loosening. Cures for that are proper spoke prep before building the wheel, and a tiny drop of penetrating oil where each nipple contacts the rim. Penetrating oil might help if your spokes weren't prepped properly, but I don't know about that for sure.


Thank you for posting the photo. It’s a bit clearer that the front wheel is touching the side of the forks. This can be caused by one of two things:

1) the wheel “tacoed” or bent slightly when you had the accident. If the bend is slight, your shop can straighten it back out and tighten the spokes

2) or the front axle slipped a bit in the front dropouts so that the wheel is no longer parallel to the forks and centered. Fixing this just takes loosening the axle bolts or quick release, setting the wheel back in the dropouts, and then tightening everything back up.

There’s a lot of forces involved when you crash, even at a low speed. Suddenly, hundreds of Newtons of force can be concentrated on just one small part of the bike. It’s impossible to build a bike that would survive all types of accidents especially as people want lightweight bikes. And many parts of a bike are designed to either pop out of alignment or sacrificially break so that more expensive parts of the bike are saved.

In any case, take the bike back to the shop to get it fixed. Most shops I know of would fix it as a courtesy fix — not because they or the bike are at fault, but as part of good customer service for a minor repair.

///——-////

included for historical reasons:

My first guess before you posted the photo was that the handle bars twisted so that they are no longer perpendicular to the wheel.

This can happen with any bike but hybrids have wider handlebars than many so they’re particularly easy to make crooked. Also, I hate to say this but hybrid bikes tend to attract people who are relatively newer to biking and so there’s more chance they’ll do things the bike isn’t designed to do, like run it into the ground.

You can easily fix twisted handlebars by holding your front wheel between your knees and straightening or forcing the handlebars to be perpendicular to the bike and wheels.

And you can ask your bike shop to tighten the fork bolts so that they’re tighter but a big enough spill will twist them — it’s better that it twists out of alignment given it’s so easy to fix — rather than the wheel bending out of shape.


New DIY project: restoring this bike from the bins. How can I service this back wheel?

As there are balls missing and bent components, you should completely refurbish the hub.
It looks like a freewheel type hub rather than a freehub/cassette type. First thing to do is get the freewheel off. Personally I’d replace the freewheel so I’d be starting with unworn sprockets and chain.
Disassemble the hub, completely degrease and clean and inspect the cups and cones. If the bearing surfaces of the cups are damaged then you’ll need to consider a new hub (or even wheel as the rim is out of true). Check the axle is straight. Check cups, balls etc for wear. Ball bearing come in a few different sizes but presumably there are balls in the drive side which you can use to find out what size they are. The axle, cups, balls etc are all easily replaceable.
There is lots of bike repair glance on the web. I’m a fan of Park Tool Repair Help in general.
For your immediate problem, RJ The Bike Guy YouTube channel has a comprehensive video on refurbishing a freewheel hub that should show you everything you need to know about dealing with your hub.
Good luck with this project, it’s good to hear of someone bringing a bike back to life. You’ll learn a lot going through the process and will get great satisfaction from it.


Wahoo KICKR 2018 and Shimano Sora 11-32t 9-speed compatibilty

Your bike should be compatible per wahoo:
"The KICKR uses an 11-speed compatible Shimano freehub body, but you can install an 8, 9, or 10 speed cassette with the proper spacers."

https://support.wahoofitness.com/hc/en-us/articles/204281874-Difference-between-10-speed-and-11-speed-KICKRs-

You should be fine installing the 1.8mm spacer on the kickr along with a 9-speed Shimano cassette. The same spacer is needed for installing 10-speed Shimano cassettes. Just make sure there is no play in the cassette after installing, if there is, you should be able to get different sized spacers from any bike shop as needed.


can you put a shimano XTR M980 175mm stage power meter on a XT M785 175mm setup?

Both the M785 and the M980 are hollowtech II systems and compatible. They use a compatible bottom bracket sm-bb70 and sm-bb93, which are English threaded 68/73mm.

The M980 uses the same clamping system as other Hollowtech II systems which is different to earlier xtr cranksets which required specialist tools.

The stages power meter comes as a replacement crank arm with the meter built in, so while this set up would work for aesthetic purposes wouldn't it be better to get the m785 meter?


storing bike outside - avoiding trapped moisture and rainfall (bike covers)

You know, I worry that marketing firms have brainwashed the entire world into believing that you need to spend a lot of money on fancy materials that are waterproof and breathable. Honestly, just spend a few pounds on a poly tarp and your bike will stay as dry as the day you bought it. Just be sure that you take the bike out to give it some fresh air each day so that you don't have to worry about condensation building up and causing problems. You'd still have to do this anyway even if you bought something expensive, no matter how breathable the salesman promised you it would be.


How can I widen brakes on an '09 Specialized Transition Pro?

This part is specific to Specialized. They only make one size. If you loosen the center cable, it should have more than enough clearance for a Zipp wheel, even if you have the new Firecrest design.

The straddle clip can be replaced with a standard cantilever straddle cable and a hook, like this:

but it is not ideal for leverage on the brakes, which may reduce your stopping power. And I'm not suggesting installing the cantilever brake, only using the bridge and straddle cable.


Yes, the icon represents the error "File Repair". Related to cycling I've seen others have these issues with mounts at times. In my experience, mount to rider is better than mount to bicycle. Check to make sure your mount isn't coming loose. Check the SD card too, just in case, although the camera should throw an "SD Card Error" if that was the case. Last check any recent created files for quality.


Using two tires on one wheel to prevent punctures?

I'd just buy tyre liners (example from Zefal).  They're made from tough polyurethane which many sharp things won't get through or at least not quickly. I've used cheap (unbranded eBay) ones on a cheap bike when I didn't want to buy expensive new tyres, and they worked well, with one issue, probably what your mechanic was thinking of that was easily solved by taping over the end.  They can be cut down to fit your small wheel, and it looks like the ones I've linked are made wide enough. Another popular brand is Mr Tuffy, though I've never used them.

If you want to try recycling instead of buying, then use the tyre liners as inspiration.  Here's Zefal's video on fitting them, so you can see the approximate proportions.


Broken Cogset-Back Wheel will not turn when pedaling

Your rear freehub or freewheel is damaged and/or needing service.  The mechanism that engages when you pedal forward, then releases to spin/idle when you are not pedaling or pedaling backwards is broken.  Much of the time these are not serviceable, or are damaged beyond service once they are spinning forward freely.  If you have a freehub, you will most likely need to buy a new rear wheel.  If you have an older style freewheel, it will need to be replaced.


No movement between two lowest shifter settings

Time for some troubleshooting.  Start by getting the rear wheel off the ground, in a workstand or hang the bike somehow.
With your LEFT hand, directly move the derailleur while pedaling slowly with the right hand.  You should be able to get into the lowest gear (easiest, most teeth) by pushing the derailleur inboard.  When you relax it the derailleur should move outboard and the chain will move to the highest gear (smallest tooth count)
Watch out for your fingers!  This area of the bike can be dangerous to digits !
If not, adjust your limit screws.  By doing this you're taking the shifter and inner/outer cable out of the picture.   Only then do you move onward.
Set your rear mech's barrel adjuster on a middling setting, neither fully in nor fully out.
Set the chain on the second highest gear (the one beside the hardest gear/smallest cog) AND then click your shifter so it would drop into the hardest gear if you pedal.  But don't pedal.
Then undo the pinch bolt on the rear mech and pull through all the slack in your inner cable.  Check that the outer hasn't come loose in any frame cable-stops.  Then tighten that pinchbolt again.
At this point, it should be pretty close, but you will need to dial in the adjustment using that barrel adjuster.  Hand-pedal slowly, using the shifter to change gears this time.    Ideally chain should go up or down one cog per click of the shifter.
Finally - be miserly on the low limit screw asjustment.  You don't want the chain to have any way to hop over the top and destroy spokes.


Daniel summed up the first half of your question pretty well. For the second half, start by visiting this link to learn how to adjust the hub. When you go to inspect the bike try what you've learned first. If the shift lever is obviously sticky it may just need new cable and housing. Other than that, it's hard to tell. Internally geared hubs typically aren't a component that you visually inspect. If it's potentially trashed, 1972 isn't really a vintage that would be worth rebuilding. If the hub is trashed and you're really in love with the bike, you could always replace the rear wheel with a new one. 3 speed internally geared hubbed wheels are typically pretty cheap. Or you could wait for another bike like it to come around. Most bikes from around that time period are a dime a dozen.


There is a grinding feeling at the end of my pedaling at high speed

I would say: pedalbearings? Seems that when you apply pressure, the bearing gets pressurised, causing this "rough" feel.


Does a singlspeed conversion kit feel different than a freewheel?

Riding the bike, the only thing you would potentially notice is if there's any difference between the rate of engagement of the two ratcheting mechanisms being compared, i.e. that specific freehub versus specific freewheel, and also any differences in how noisy they are. Examples exist of each that are more or less noisy or quick-engaging, so there is no universal answer.

Cassette hubs made for derailer use and converted to singlespeed via spacer kits have the disadvantage of being weaker and less laterally stiff than dedicated singlespeed hubs, because the drive side bracing angle is steeper and there's less total spoke tension. That could be noticeable depending on the rider and circumstances, especially if you're pushing what your chosen rim can handle strength and stiffness wise.


How much mountain biking experience is needed for Goat Canyon Trestle Bridge via Carrizo Gorge Road?

I am unfamiliar with that route.  However you say its an "out and back trail" so you'll be coming back the same way you went in.
Simply evaluate the terrain on the way in, and if you think its going to be beyond you on the way back, stop there.
Disused train tracks are normally almost flat - trains can't climb a grade any steeper than about 1.5% on plain rails, so as long as it wasn't a cablecar or cogged funicular railway, then it will be essentially flat.  If the route leaves the track bed then that no longer applies.

Note that there are descriptions and text in the link you posted

As of December 2020, some of the tunnels are closed, but detours are provided.

Warning: Users have reported that this trail is located on private property and you may be subjected to fines. It is recommended that you do not park on the dirt roads.

Hikers report that the first and third tunnels are closed and one is also gated off. Both of those closed tunnels offer detours.

So that closed tunnel is why the elevation record in your link shows some 10% grades, probably the detours up and over the closed tunnels.
And there's a tag of no shade so its going to be hot and dry.  Pack sufficient water as well as the usual necessaries.
Basically - if you find something that you feel is beyond you, stop and return.


Self-sealing tubes are filled (well, not completely filled) with a sealant, similar to this used to seal tubeless tyres. When a wheel is spinning, sealant is distributed evenly around the tube, and when the puncture occurs, the sealant should be able to stop the air from leaking. They are quite reliable for small punctures (say, up to 5mmm at a time) but the sealant may lose its properties after a few months so I'd be careful with these.

And whether you need to remove the puncturing object, well it depends. If it's small and could progres into a tube it's better to remove it immediately before the hole increases. And when it's large (say, a larger nail) it could sometimes help stop the leak. However there's no strict rule here, and you have to check what works better in each situation.


Can I use my standard quick-release rear hub with a frame with 142x12mm rear end?

The answer to this depends on your hub -- we don't know what wheel set you are running. Some manufacturers (Hope, Chris King, etc.) have released adapter kits for some their hubs to be used as 12x142 mm, however other wheel sets don't have compatible hubs. If your hub manufacturer hasn't released told you that you can do the conversion, you're out of luck and need to get new wheels.


How do I know when to change my crank bearings?

To check the bearings related to the crankset, specifically, the bottom bracket bearings, one can use a few techniques. As part of my regular drive train maintenance, I check the crankset for excess lateral play by holding a crank arm while the bike is held secure and pull and push the arm several times in the sideways, perpendicular to the length of the bike, direction. I take note of any movement or sounds generated by my efforts. If excess play is noted here, it calls for tightening the crankarm fixing bolts in a system that has the spindle incorporated with the bottom bracket bearings ie: square taper or splined cartridge BB's.  If the play remains after proper torque of the fixing bolts is achieved, this is an indication that the bottom bracket itself is worn and needs replacing as a cartridge BB is not serviceable. Prior to it's removal is check that the left, adjustable cup is properly torqued and that the movement I'm sensing isn't the wiggle of the entire BB. This movement would be more up and down as opposed to lateral when a left cup is loose. Lateral play in cartridge BB's infers significant internal wear of bearings and spindle within the cartridge body.
For a system featuring external BB bearings like Shimano's Hollowtech2 or SRAM GXP, where the crank spindle is attached to the right crankam, when lateral play is detected by trying to force the crankarm in a lateral direction as above, it may be a situation where the bearing preload is too loose and needs to be adjusted properly. Depending on the system, either a left sided crankarm "fixing bolt" is used to load the bearings (ala' Shimano. I use quotations around the bolt because it doesn't "fix" or secure anything, it's a bearing preloader and the actual fixing is done with pinch bolts on the left crankarm that squeeze the splined spindle an hold it in place).  SRAM utilizes wave washers to adjust preload.  So at any rate lateral play of these systems may infer incorrect preload as opposed to excess bearing wear and needs to be addressed first.  Excess play in these systems where the preload is correct and any shims if present are in proper position is evidence of excess wear in the bottom bracket.
Another technique to assess the BB bearings is to spin the crank with chain and it's associated noise and vibration is removed from the equation.  One can simply derail the chain and get it onto the BB shell of the bike. This will allow you to turn the crankarm's while you look, listen and feel for abnormalities like grinding, excess resistance--especially when it's irregular, happens in one spot of the rotation and not the others--or the knocking or similar sound or feel associated with crank arm rotation. If you place your hand on the seat tube or down tube as close to the BB as possible without interfering with the crank rotation, one can feel the grinding or vibrations emanating from the contaminated and compromised bearings of a worn bottom bracket.  Normal findings will be silent, vibration and grinding -free, smooth rotation if the crank. The chain ring(s) should track true without lateral run out. You may be surprised, as I first was, that the spin of the crank isn't as free as, say, a wheel.  Packing with grease and preload on the bearings contribute to the lack of a comparable amount of free spin in a crankset.   Obviously this doesn't apply when there is irregular or excessive resistance to rotation, but I wanted to make note that you won't spin a chain free crankset and watch it go round and round for dozens of rotations before it pendulums to a stop.
With external bottom brackets, it's relatively easy to remove the crankset with it's attached spindle and stick a couple of fingers in the bottom bracket and turn the bearing housing back and forth. Detecting grittiness or rough rotation infers contaminated or worn bearings requiring service or replacement of the bottom bracket as most are not made to service, only replace.


I wouldn't imagine it is normal for them to be over-tightened - what would be the point? However, its generally advised after buying a machine built bike / wheels to check that spokes / hubs haven't loosening after a breaking in period. This in in comparison with a hand built bike.


Exchange FSA K-Force Light chainset with a SRAM RED

If you have the GXP Red cranks (more normal) you want a Pressfit GXP Bottom Bracket.

If you have the BB30 Red cranks you want a Pressfit 30 BB

However not all press fit systems are created equal. I would have your LBS check compatibility, and supply and fit a suitable part.

SRAM make both of these in the whole range of series from Red down to non-series Truvativ-branded versions.


I too own a Trek 520 and the bike does indeed come with 700C wheels and has for quite a number of years.

The labeling of a 700C tire is somewhat misleading due to historical reasons.

Originally, tires were sold in sizes based on the outer diameter of the tire. 700A, 700B, and 700C tires were all 700mm in diameter. However, the 700C tires were the thickest and the 700A tires were the thinnest. This difference was made up by using a smaller diameter rim for 700C tires and a larger diameter rim for 700A tires.

Nowadays, all tires labeled as 700C mount on a 622mm rim. Most tires will have both labels on them. 622 is the size recognized by the International Organization for Standardization, or ISO but 700C has become so common that it is the de facto industry standard label and is how most people will refer to that size.

Tire widths are (sort of) an additional complication. This page has a chart showing what widths tires are compatible with what width rims. However, I have run all sorts of widths on my 520, have never worried about rim compatibility, and have never had a problem in that respect. (I have mounted one brand of 700x35 that was big enough to rub on my frame, even though lots of others worked fine.)

All of this information and more is available on Sheldon Brown's tire sizing systems page, which is a fascinating read if you want to dork out over tire sizes for a while.

The following is in response to your edit:

It is not correct that you can mount a 26" or 27" tire on your 622mm rim. 26" and 27" tires are two different entities and each mounts on a different size rim. A 26" tire mounts on a 599mm rim and a 27" tire mounts on a 630mm rim.

Also be wary of 28" tires. While some mount on a 622mm rim, others mount on a 635mm rim.

When in doubt, trust the ISO number and stick within the widths on the chart mentioned above.


Should I force an 130 mm hub into my old vintage alu frame

First, try to find a modern wheel that's the right size. They are still made and you can get very shiny ones that will match the bike very nicely. Or get a 120mm fixie hub and add 3mm of spacers each side.

If you must use a modern wheel, try to shrink your hub. Many hubs have washers between the locknuts and cones, or other spacers. If you can remove even a couple of washers to bring the hub width down you're better off. Ideally keep the hub symmetric, but a millimetre out is not the end of the world. Note that you'll need cone spanners and a little skill to adjust things after you do this. With a modern sealed bearing hub it's easier, but with a classic bike like that I suspect you're not putting new wheels in it.

Finally, spreading the frame 4mm should be fine. It'll make getting the rear wheel in harder. With aluminium, do not try to cold set the frame. Once the aluminium yields a lot of the strength is gone and you've basically destroyed the frame.


Either find a touchup paint that closely matches (often bike shops have tons of surplus or can order one that matches), or clear coat it. Or use clear nail polish.
Or don't worry about it ;)
As long as you're not storing the bike outside in the elements, you will reach the fatigue life of a weld somewhere on the frame before scratches will rust sufficiently to compromise its structural integrity.
And before anybody says it- yes, I know steel can be repaired. Once again, as long as the bike is being stored out of the elements you'll be able to repair welds many times over before the frame will rust through.


Lightweight aluminum frame transported via trunk rack

As far a aluminum goes, do this experiment. Get an empty soda can with no dents and stand on it. It will support your weight. Now put the tiniest dent in the side, notice how easily this happens. Stand on it and it collapses with a fraction of the weight it previously supported.

How does this translate to bikes? A bike frame is built much much stronger than it needs to be to support the forces generated when riding. They are built to withstand the forces that will cause dents, the even a dent in aluminum can be catastrophic.

When placing a bike on a rack such as yours, there is a chance it can be dented - probably not from straps being too tight, most likely from other bikes on the same rack banging into it. If you secure the bikes firmly, they are fine. You must use padding between them of some sort - "Dog Bones" are great (plastic spacers with a strap at each end), or foam.  If the bikes can swing around freely you damage them.

I used this style rack for years with aluminum bikes, as do most of my mates. The main reason to discourage the use of such racks is every bike I carry has paint damage from rubbing against another bike where I was a little less careful than I could have been putting them on. I have seen derailleurs knocked off from them as well. Roof racks or rail based racks are much better at protecting the bike in transit and virtually ensure no forces are generated that will break a frame.


Can anyone help me with what kind of bike this is?

A quick google search sends one to the Dutch bike manufacturer BSP: https://www.bsp-fietsen.nl

According to what the internet says it's a Dutch family company started in 1986. They build their bikes in the Netherlands, according to what their webpage says.

As it comes to the geometry of your bike it's the typical Dutch "oma fiets" - grandma bike. I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom bracket was a threadless press-in style.


Replacement shifter for Shimano exage 7-speed - modern shifter compatible?

For the shifter to match, you need to match the number of speeds, cassette width and shifter actuation ratio. For Shimano everything under 10 speeds (except 8-speed Dura Ace which most people don't have to care about) has the same actuation ratio, so all you need to know is the new shifters are 7-speed Shimano. These can still be bought.


One thing you haven't mentioned: when does the noise occur relative to crank position? Does it make the noise through the entire revolution of the crank arm? Is the noise loudest at a certain point in the crank revolution (say 2 o'clock)? I had a customer come in one time with a sound they absolutely could not get rid of and they went through most of the steps you mentioned. Turned out is was one of the chainring bolts. A little grease on the threads and the problem was gone. It was a ridiculously easy fix for a ridiculously maddening problem!! May not fix your problem but it only takes a couple of minutes to try this solution. You should make sure that all threaded surfaces have grease or anti-seize compound on them. Bare metal threading into bare metal is no-no as it leads to annoying noises, bolts coming loose or bolts seizing/corroding. Good luck!


If you have a 7 speed rear cassette, any Shimano 7 speed shifter should work.

Shimano's Altus range sits just above the Tourney TX range, so an Altus shifter would nominally be a little better, but matching a TX shifter with a TX derailleur would be fine.


You seem to have tested the rear wheel. Have you tested whether the front wheel and brake are making the noise?

Also are you pulling the correct lever to operate the rear brake? It depends which country the bike was built in as to which one operates the rear brake. So in the UK the left hand lever operates the rear brake but in the rest of Europe (I believe)its the right hand lever. If you are pulling the front brake lever then obviously the rear wheel will not stop spinning. With the bike on the ground pulling either brake lever will stop the bike moving.

Ticking can be the rotor disc very slightly touching one of the pad. It can be a tick once-per-rotation of the disc if the disc is slightly warped at one point. The ticking would stop when the brake was pulled on as the pads would fully engage and make other louder noises.


Since it's a 1x setup you don't have to worry about the front derailleur, so it's definitely possible to swap in a smaller chainring.  That will affect your highest gear too though, so you should bear that in mind.

I don't see any reason for there to be a problem switching to a 36t chainring, noting that 36x42 is only 10% less than 40x42.  Maybe that's enough of an improvement; it's up to you to judge how much easier you need it.  It will reduce your max speed - for a given cadence - by about 10% as well in your top gear.

The SRAM X-Sync chainring has a 5-bolt, 110mm bolt-centre diameter (BCD) mounting, (sample link only) so you need to find a compatible chainring.  Again, not to make a recommendation, but a quick search found a 36t Wolf Tooth 1x chainring with a matching bolt configuration.

It is possible to find a cassette with a bigger range (though not a SRAM 11-speed) but that would require you to replace your rear derailleur as well, since the SRAM Rival 1 derailleur your bike comes with has a max of 42.  This is almost definitely not worth it.


Rear derailleur doesn't go to smallest cog

The inside of the barrel adjuster should screw into- and out of the derailleur  when you turn it. The part around it should only slide lengthwise but should turn with it (there is a slot which allows it to slide lengthwise but ensures they turn with each other).
In my experience the Ultegra R8000 barrel adjuster has an unusually fine thread and needs quite a few turns to move a real distance.
If your second rear wheel is really identical to the first one (same hub, same cassette, same spacers on the cassette (if any) etc.) then it shouldn’t require derailleur adjustments. But I guess different torque on the cassette lockring or some other minor difference could be a reason.


You're taking the right approach, although 2(34+22)=112. Measuring half of the spindle as you did is fine as long as you're 100% confident it's a symmetrical spindle. In practice it's something I might do with the knowledge I have to double check later and fix things if by chance they didn't work out.

Even if Sheldon's 4.5mm number is right on, this would give you 45mm front chainline, which would work despite not being ideal. Personally I don't know if it's just 4.5mm cut and dry like that in all cases. But it's probably worth a try.


Help identifying a vintage Diamondback full suspension MTB

Looks like a late 90s BSO.

I also notice the boots/stanchions from the forks have rotted and dropped off.  And that you're missing the front brakes completely.

Not only that, the front rim is completely missing a rotor and doesn't even appear to have a rotor mount.   I suspect the front wheel was replaced at some point.  As such, this bike is not safe to ride.

The suspension is a spring with a damper on the inside.  The damper will be purely cosmetic and any damping capability will have long since vanished.  I found that a 60 kilo teenage rider could over-compress the rear suspension making the whole bike extremely saggy to ride.

That frame shares a lot with this late 90s Raleigh RFX

UPSHOT  If you have a disk front wheel, rotor, and spare working front caliper/lever already, it looks like a straight forward tune up.  If you have to buy any more than cleaner and lube then think twice.  Unless its sentimental in which case its your decision.


Can I use the regular Shimano 2300 shifter/brake levers with Shimano 105 callipers?

Shimano is great about publishing specification and compatibility charts for their cycling products. They can all be found here including PDF files of previous year's information.

The latest doc that has info on 2300 series Claris shift levers and brakes is here. In section 4. Brake systems interchangeability we see that ST-2300 brake/shifter units are not strictly compatible with BR-6700 Ultegra or BR-5700 105 calipers (and I assume that means the same for 6800, 5800, R8000 or R700 calipers as well).

However, we see that ST-6700 and ST-5700 are compatible (with a caveat of reduced power) with brakes used in 2300 series groupsets, so you might be able to get away with using R-6700 or BR-5700 calipers.

If they don't work together keep the original calipers until you swap shifters. Use the compatibility charts to make sure shifters and derailleurs will work together when you consider upgrading those.


Frames sold with 1x builds may be designed in a way that's freed of the constraints of FD bikes.

They might not have the small or large ring clearance needing for any given multi-ring crank.
The seat tube might not accommodate a front derailleur by virtue of its diameter, placement/angle/curviness, whether it's even tubular, etc. If it's round and in the normal place, but a nonstandard diameter that's less than 34.9mm, you can typically solve the problem by just beer can shimming up to 34.9 and using a 34.9mm FD. There are also some braze-on FD adapter mounts that have been made for odd diameter seat tubes, but that wouldn't help for non-road bikes.
There may be no accommodations for FD cable routing, although in most cases if you've got a seat tube that can take an FD anyway then you can solve this problem fine using a clamp-on housing stop and a top or dual pull FD, then run full housing to that stop and zip tie it to the top tube.

A pretty common scenario from having done this on a few different bikes is the first two aren't issues, but a clamp-on housing stop is needed on the seat tube. It makes sense from a manufacturer's standpoint to offer the cleaner look and not have unused housing stops, so that's what most of them are doing. I've also seen one 1x native bike I can recall with a seat tube diameter in the 33s.
Many bikes, especially hybrid/urban bikes, will do exactly what you propose without issue. You may need a new bottom bracket depending on the crank you pick out and whatever you have now. The chain will need to be replaced if it was sized properly to begin with and now you're going to a larger chainring. You'll also need to make sure your rear derailleur has the total capacity to handle the new gearing; bikes that come with 11-34 and an basic long cage MTB/hybrid derailleur will tend to have total capacity for a triple, but bikes that had wide-range cassettes to start with may not.


Pins can be forced out from both sides.

Quite a lot of force needs to be put on a pin to force it out, especially at first to move the pin out of its interference fit in the outer chain plates.

Make sure the chain is positioned in the chain tool properly, and the driver is hitting the chain pin straight-on. If you have a small chaintool, such as one from a portable tool kit, you won't have much leverage. You can hold the tool with a large adjustable wrench and turn the handle with pliers.

Don't be afraid to really force it. IF you are replacing the chain you wont break anything you care about.

If you want to re-use the chain you need to careful if you have unsuccessfully tried forcing more than one pin out. You may have moved a pin slightly and weakened it. If you suspect you have done this a new chain may be a safe option.

I linked a Park Tool video on replacing a chain below that includes how to break a chain.


Can adjusting handlebar height help reduce hand numbness?

You aren't the first to have problems with numbness riding, so take heart. You raised the saddle a lot, and that will transfer weight to the front of the bike via your hands. You have several options:

Pre-Ride:
* Buy some cycling gloves
* Raise the handlebars until they are comfortable (maybe an inch or so a ride)

During the Ride:
*Move your hands around the bar every so often. Road bikes have a lot of places to grip, and this is one of the reasons

If these don't work, then you could go to a bike shop and inquire about a simple fit. You could also do the same and look up how online.

*My guess is that the reach from the seat to the handlebars is to short and to steep, which is great for a mountain bike that needs to be yanked around. It isn't the best for the stability and endurance needed in a road bike.


Sunglasses have two enemies: dirt and UV rays.

The polycarbonate itself is fairly tough and can last over ten years. It’s likely to  get scratched up before the UV starts to cause it to yellow or ‘craze.’ The coatings are more delicate. The anti reflective coatings are easily scratched especially if you use your sweat and dirt soaked jersey to 'clean' them.

The photochromic layer itself is activated by UV light but is also damaged by it. Generally, one can expect photochromic lenses to last 1-3 years depending on use. Keeping the sunglasses in a case (and away from UV rays) when not using them helps protect them.


How to open Gazelle Orange c7+ chain case?

There is another model in a video on YouTube, i would image the removal process is similar. It appears to take a little prying, then a couple screws and that's about it. i would inspect the chain cover closer and see if there are any obvious tabs or seams that separate or if there are any visible screws from the inside (through the wheel)

Here is the link:

 Gazelle Chain Case Removal


Its not the distance, its the time on the bike.

Assuming this is not a solo ride, you'll be riding with other people either in a proper rotating bunch ride, or just on the same road/direction as them.  This alone will increase your overall speed by as much as 20%.

If you can be seated on a bike for 6 hours in a day, you can do this ride.

You will need to eat regularly.  For me thats "something" every hour, a gel or chocolate or a bar or some sort.  Or bananas, some people like them.

Water is also big - One plain water bottle and one with electrolyte mix added.  You will be able to top-up water bottle at the filling stations, for 161 km I'd expect 3-5 total stations along the route.  Check the map, but plan for one to be missing - its happened to me.

Filling stations are a rest point - you can get off the saddle while doing bottles, drink and eat, and go again.  Personally, 5 mins is plenty, but on a really long ride I like a 15 minute at somewhere over 50%.


Lower limit screw for derailleur adjustment is already at its outer limit

I assume you mean that it is rubbing on the inside, and that you want the FD to be closer to the bike. In this case it might be that you have cable tension causing problems. You should adjust the L screw without cable tension. You can simply loosen the cable bolt to help with this, so that only the L screw is adjusting the start position, not the cable
If there is still rubbing with no cable tension whatsoever, then it might be your FD is not straight (it needs to be rotated).
Review https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
for steps.
Possibly also if your FD is not the original one you might have chainline issues, but you have not said here what bike you have and whether GRX810 is the original equipment or your replacement - GRX810 FD chainline is 2.5mm outboard compared to a standard road FD (the crank is outboard by 3.4mm).


Why doesn't my new SRAM XG-1295 cassette bolt turn freely?

It sounds like you solved the problem, so I'm going to hijack this thread slightly to provide some general info. The cassette you have uses the SRAM "XD" technology, which is unusual in using a "lock tube" instead of a traditional lock ring. The lock tube is integrated into the cassette and enables the cassette to have the otherwise too small 10-tooth cog. The tube is the part marked in the OP's photo.

Although the OP's problem is with the movement of the locktube within the cassette, there have been a number of complaints in the past few years about the locktube seizing against the freehub, since there is a significant surface area of contact between them. Compounding the problem is the fact that the splines on the lock tube have a very low profile, so when excessive torque is applied to try to turn a seized lock tube, the splines shear off. Very often the result is that both the cassette and freehub body must be replaced. Search "SRAM XD cassette seizing up" for stories.

The take-home message is that you should liberally apply grease or anti-seize to the freehub body whenever installing this type of cassette!


Difference between cheap and expensive mountain bikes

These bikes won't really work well as mountain bikes.

Namely:
They won't be able to handle any real terrain. Will be difficult to control on the trail due to bad damping and insufficient braking or braking modulation. Will be slow uphil due to heavy weight. They gearing will give you fewer options and shifting will not be as accurate. To achieve some reasonable gear range they must use a triple crankset and that is not used for midrange bikes any more (more awkward and heavier.

They will be prone to braking after jumps - I would especially be worried about the wheels (+ axles) and the forks, the steel frames might be sturdy.

They might work well for commuting, but then some of the features will be just a useless weight addon. Commuters are usually better with simpler bikes from different categories. And not just commuters, even when riding off-road on gravel roads or reasonable paths a simple bike with rigid fork and good rim brakes for the same price might be a better choice with better overall quality.


That's a hard question to answer because there is no real official way to solve this issue, and it's often up to the driver to estimate your speed, you can't really do anything about this.

One way to show motorists how fast you're going would be to highlight part of your bike like the wheels or the pedals, to actually highlight how fast they are spinning. Fast spinning wheels and pedals make you thing "This guy goes fast".

To do so you could try to wear yellow overshoes (I don't know if you can find these in India, we have these in France), and your feet will instantly pop out. You can also just put reflectors on your pedals or install colored pedals, but it's harder to notice.

For the wheels, you can also try to put reflectors on the spokes so that it gives it a reference point that people will see spinning. Some people just put stickers on the spokes though.

Finally, as you mentionned your gear can induce the fact you're going. If you look "legit" with a helmet and proper cycling gear, people will unconsciously admit the fact you are going fast. Wearing bright clothes will also help you being noticed by drivers.


Proper term for 2/3-bolt compatible shoes

I'm not aware of a widely accepted term for multi-compatible shoes. Different manufacturers and retailers will probably each have their own way of referring to them. Not all retailers list that a shoe handles both, or even show a picture of the sole, which is frustrating.

FWIW, in my experience, shoes that handle both 2-bolt and 3-bolt cleats tend to be more at the low end; you won't find a lot of options at the high end, where paper-thin carbon soles and weight minimization militate against putting extra holes and two sets of backplates in.


Does it makes sense to buy a new cycle to learn riding?

I learnt to ride in my 20s. I couldn't find a big enough bike second hand, except by spending several times the price of a cheap new bike.  So I bought a cheap new bike and learnt to ride on it (a steel so-called mountain bike but really a hybrid with knbbly tyres).  Even that was actually only just big enough.  I didn't really get confident in bike handling until I bought a much nicer hybrid that fitted me properly.

If you can possibly get a decent hybrid or hardtail mountain bike second hand that fits you that's the way to go.  This will help you find what features you want, as well as being something to learn on; you may even find that this is a good commuter long-termn and you get something nicer/more specialised for having fun.

There's no shame in learning to ride as an adult, in fact quite the opposite - good for you.


Problem with inside of shoe clipping crank arm

The proximate answer is that your shoes at the closest point, are too close to the crank arm, but that hardly solves your problem!

This distance is affected by a large number of factors: your cleat position, pedal axel length, pedal float, bottom bracket length, and crank arm construction.

Pedal float becomes a factor if you heel-in during your pedal stroke (some peoples hips naturally make them "duck-footed."  In this case a longer pedal axel or shifting the cleats to a more inboard position can help.  However shifting the cleats too far can also cause hot spots in some situations as the pedal platform will not be supporting the shoe as evenly as a more centred position.

Too add to the confusion people may also take a duck footed position to compensate for pedal stance (often referred to as the Q Factor), the distance between the pedal attachment point and the centre of the bicycle.  Q Factor is a function of both the bottom bracket width (axle length) and the crank arms construction.  Different cranks have a different nominal Q Factor measurements.  If your bike has a wide Q Factor and your body prefers a more narrow stance, and your pedals have enough float to accommodate, you may pedal heel-in to reduce the realized stance, which can also cause the shoe/crank rubbing.

Finally, you may be pedalling in a mostly neutral heel position and simply have wide feet and short pedal axels and/or an outboard cleat position.  In this case a more neutral cleat position (inboard vs outboard) or longer pedal axel may solve the problem.

Without more information it is impossible to diagnose which factors are applicable to your situation.


Can I use 53-39T chain rings with compact cranks?

When you're matching chainrings to a crank, you need to match the bolt pattern (i.e. are there 4 bolts, 5 bolts) and the bolt circle diameter (BCD) measured in mm -- the diameter of the circle which all the bolts lie on [or equivalently, the center-to-center distance (C-C) of adjacent bolts. Multiply this (in mm) by 1.701 to get the BCD for 5 bolt patterns, 1.414 for 4 bolt, etc. -- its just a simple exercise in trigonometry to figure this out].

Compact cranks have a 110 BCD with a 5 bolt pattern while a regular road double has 130 BCD 5 bolt pattern.

There are some 53t and 39t 110 BCD chainrings, but they are less common than those sold in 130 BCD. As pointed out by ojs in the comments, Stronglight and TA (among other manufacturers) do make them.

Note that you will also have to adjust the front derailleur (and check everything is within spec for the front derailleur) if you do this swap. And you defeat the point of buying a compact double in the first place.


Are advantages of a 11/28T cassette noticeable over a 14/28T cassette?

Like another answer pointed out, there will be a difference in how the transition between gears feels; assuming they have the same number of sprockets, shifting from one gear to another on the 14-28 should feel "smoother" than on the 11-28.

From a performance standpoint, the 11-28 will give you the option of more speed, by virtue of you having smaller sprockets available.

However, you asked whether these things are noticeable, to which I would say: it depends. Here's why:

If you are a commuting or more recreational cyclist, the answer is likely no. Many commuters don't spend much (or any) time near the bottom of the cassette. If you're more of that style of rider, you may only get to the bottom of the cassette during a steep descent. Many of the commuting cyclists I know have about as much use for 11t cassettes as they do 53t chainrings.

On the other hand, if you are a more of a competitive or racing cyclist, you will most likely be able to notice the addition of the smaller sprockets; both on descents and flats, depending on ability. Some of the racing cyclists I know regularly find themselves near the bottom of their cassettes, during hard efforts. If you're a racing or aspiring racing cyclist, you'll probably notice the advantages of the 11-28 cassette.


I am going cycle touring. What should I carry in my first aid kit?

First and foremost, a few spares of any medications you may need for conditions you have.
Gauze pads, tape, and antibiotic ointment for "road rash".
A few assorted adhesive bandages.
Hydrocortisone ointment, for insect bites and "butt burn".
Probably some aspirin or other OTC pain med/NSAID.
Some money (seriously).

Sunblock and insect repellant don't really count as "first aid" items, but you should have them, generally in a different location, for easy access and in case of leakage.  You may also want ear plugs, if you'll be sleeping in tight quarters with other bikers, and snoring borthers you a lot.

Also not in the "first aid" category but worthwhile is "butt butter", especially if you wear standard biking shorts.

In at least 5000 miles of multi-day touring I've only ever needed the road rash stuff, sunblock, insect repellant, hydrocortisone, and aspirin (to help me sleep), plus decongestants that I take for a congenital condition.


What are the benefits of oversize lower headset bearings?

There is more load on the lower bearing because it bears all the weight and receives all vertical impacts. Making the lower part of the head tube bigger also allows for bigger down tubes.


Steel wire is cheap (if it's not stainless). Even the outers aren't very sophisticated. So it's possible to meet the basic requirements for very little cost. For more money you get a lower friction lining and better tolerances, which are worth having in many cases (including beater bikes and BSOs with marginal brakes).

On the other hand if you need to keep taking up slack in the cable, something is wrong. I'd expect to set them up, ride a bit, tweak and then get hundreds of miles before needing to tighten again (unless your pads wear very fast). If that's not the case, something is creeping, stretching, fraying or otherwise letting you down.

After any work on the brakes, ride cautiously for a bit. Test for emergency stop rather than relying on it. For major work (like new cables or unfamiliar new pads) I like to do one brake and give it a good test before doing the other.


How can I safely clean Stan's tubeless tyre sealant from carbon rims?

Stan's is WATER SOLUABLE.  Clean it with water.  Some mild soap may help if it's stubborn.

Stan's FAQ


How do I remove my Campagnolo Veloce rear brake caliper?

Seeing as you've removed the nut, you could try to insert a punch through the mounting hole, and gently tap it a few times to try and free it. I reckon there's dirt, mud, and perhaps rust in there that's causing it to stick. A picture would be useful if something else is amiss, but it's hard to imagine anything else.


I've made some observations checking out different bikes here and there and at today's workshop for Christmas Anonymous --

We will assume, for the sake of this discussion that brakes fall into three categories, calipers, cantilevers, and V-brakes.  (Yes, there are others, but not common enough to worry about unless you're really into odd bikes.)

Calipers appear to (almost) always use simple pads with threaded studs.  I'm vaguely recalling from the past that there are some variations on this scheme, but I haven't observed them of late.

I have observed at least four variations for cantis:

(Updated) A pad with a female thread, designed to accept an Allen-head bolt.  This pad appears to be very much similar to the pad for V-brakes.
A pad with an unthreaded stud with striations running parallel to the stud's length.
A pad with an unthreaded stud with "ribs" (shallow grooves) about every 2mm along the stud's length.
A pad with a smooth unthreaded stud.

(Note that I've been shown/sold pads of both the #3 and #4 variety from local shops, and both are labeled simply as "canti" pads.  It's not clear how one differentiates.)

From what little I can tell, there is a slight variation in diameter between the three varieties of unthreaded studs.  The stud with parallel striations (#2) has the smallest diameter, while the smooth stud (#4) has the largest diameter.  The #3 is somewhere in-between.  This variation is probably not enough to make a #2 unstable in the mount for a #4, but a #4 stud will not fit in a #2 mount, and a #3 stud is borderline fitting into a #2.

(Updated) V-brakes appear to always use a brake pad with a female thread, designed to receive an Allen bolt.  On the bolt are typically washers and bushings that allow the pad to swivel, after a fashion, for adjustment.

(Everyone, of course, is encouraged to reply with your specific observations on this topic.)


I need to change the chainset on my carrera vengance 27.5 frame and wheels

Have someone look at the crank. As mentioned in comments the whole crank may not need to be replaced.

If the crank does not replacement: The Halfords web page for the current Vengance model shows the bike has a mix of Shimano Altus and Tourney components, a Suntour XCE crank and a square taper cartridge bottom bracket.

Assuming your bike is the same, you can actually replace the crank with any square taper, triple ring crank designed for 8 rear gears, with the same chainring sizes (42/34/24 for the current model, but check what you have).

There are a number of manufacturers that make inexpensive cranks, a replacement Suntour or Shimano Altus crank are safe bets.

The Suntour XCE crank appears to have removable chainrings so if your big ring is damaged you will be able to replace it. Many inexpensive cranks are riveted together and the chainrings are not removable.


Would a Linus Roadster work on an off-road country environment?

The Linus Roadster is not the bike I'd choose for rural poor quality tarmac, gravel roads or packed dirt trails.
The stock 32mm tires do give a bit more volume than standard road size tires to soak up bumps a little (they are about the the same size as cyclo-cross tires ) but they are slicks designed for paved roads. The main problems are the single speed drivetrain and rear wheel only coaster brake. (There's also the fact that the bike screams urban hipster!!!)
You don't need a full-on mountain bike for poor quality tarmac, gravel roads or packed dirt trails as long as they are relatively smooth without big bumps and holes. If you want flat bars a hybrid would work well. You don't need a suspension fork and tires 35-40mm wide with a medium tread pattern will be fine. If you want drop bars gravel bikes are ideal for these sorts or surfaces as well.


What exact size tires ORIGINALLY came on an older Giant mens Cypress bicycle?

The 2005 Giant Cypress came with 700x38c tyres.
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/value-guide/product/92884/

Large volume tyres are growing in popularity over the last couple of years, so you should be able to find many good options in this size.


How do you find the right saddle for road biking?

It is very much like with shoes: very personal. You look for one until you find it and then you use the same model for as long as possible.

Or, one can use service of a tailor, or in this case, bike fit expert, for a price. Sit bones measurement is one of the most affordable things, as a simple cardboard can be used for that.

For complex cases, a custom saddle can be molded specially for you. See an article by Lennard Zinn at VeloNews.


Cervélo advertises the P-Series to have less drag and weight than the P3 (and therefore P2). Which components/groupset are installed on the two bikes? What’s the overall cost? 1k$ is not that much of a difference when the bike costs several thousand.
Are you riding in bad weather (and/or hilly terrain) and can make good use of the disc brakes? One thing I also like about disc brakes is that you avoid wear on those very expensive aero wheels.
If the P-Series comes with electronic shifting I’d definitely pick it over the P2.


There are some MTB forks that have replaceable steerers that are attached via binder bolts. Here's a Marzocchi and an RST one, respectively:

If your fork is like this you may be able to get it fixed by just tightening the bolts. You should probably take them out and re-loctite them first if so. However, look through the crown area carefully for any other damage that might have occurred from the crash, such as cracking or deformation, either of which could produce the steerer spinning as a symptom (and it would seem kind of likely there's something like this going on, given the timing).
If your fork doesn't have a steerer attachment like this, as most don't, it's more or less a goner. If it was bonded or retaining-compounded in to begin with, you maybe could fix it by re-bonding it, but I'm not saying this is necessarily a good idea.


Is there excessive lubricant on my new rear derailleur?

All of that goo is very typical of drivetrain components that are fresh from the factory. The factory uses a particularly thick lubricant to protect the parts until they're purchased or installed (lest they sit on a shelf and risk being exposed to moisture).

Basically, the factory is expecting whoever installs said drivetrain components to identify any excessive grease (some of it is there for good cause, such as protecting the inner spring from the elements), wipe it down, and re-lubricate with something lighter!


Upgrading from 9 speed to 11 speed on Giant Defy 3

On road drivetrains the freehub body was made a little wider for 11 speed to accommodate the extra sprocket (34.75mm for 8, 9 and 10 speeds to 36.75mm for 11 speed), so unfortunately the 11 speed cassette cannot be mounted on your hub.

I believe there may be some hacks to get over this, but I cannot provide any information.

Edit: Some 11 speed cassettes will fit on an 10 speed freehub body, specifically larger sizes where the large sprockets can overhang the inboard end of the freehub body, I believe.

You could upgrade to the 10 speed Tiagra group which would still be a substantial bump up in performance and reduction in mass.

It could be said that going to Ultegra is not worth the cost as the rest of the bike is still at Sora level. Also, separate groupsets are relatively expensive, and you have to take into account the cost of installation. Very often it's a better idea to simply buy a new, upgraded bike and sell your old one.


Aerodynamic kid's trailer with suspension

Generalisations on child-carrying trailers

Based on stroller designs, so suspension is rare.
Small wheels on cheaper designs.
Seat is positioned for visibility and for an adult not to stoop too far to attend to the child. This is bad for stability and aerodynamics.
Built like tents: frame with some kind of fabric over it. I've seen trailers/strollers with mesh fronts and ones with rollable plastic fronts, but as the overall shape remains a modified brick with fluttering fabric, I doubt they'll be very aerodynamic. Your velomobile is designed to have a minimised wake, so the trailer gains no aerodynamic advantage from following it.

What I would do: Make my own.

Find a suspended cargo trailer or design and construct one from tubular sections of aluminium or steel.
Create a fibreglass clamshell from scratch using insulation board for the former, like the Kingsbury Quattro
Or find a junk fibreglass boathull, invert it and add a vertical section until the interior height is sufficient. Fit a polycarb window on each side, but your child probably won't appreciate a porthole which shows the rear of your velomobile.
Use good hinges and hydraulic struts to hold the shell open (like a car hatchback)
If the shell needs catches or straps to hold it shut, there should be a release mechanism on the inside.


Is Back-pedalling normal ? chain keeps jumping from higher to lower cog in rear cassette

This is typical-ish behavior, especially if your derailleur gets a bit out of adjustment/alignment, the chainline not being quite right, etc.

You shouldn't really be backpedaling significantly, just to move the pedals into the right place (e.g. cornering, starting to ride, etc.). So, this isn't really a problem in real riding. If its happening when you're just moving the pedals (which is about a half turn of the crankset, normally, like getting the pedal up to start riding), then take it back to the shop and get them to check the adjustment of the derailleur.


This particular rim strip absorbs color from everything, and it is not a problem. Mine have turned green in use from something leaching from tubes.

In general, rim strip should be replaced if it splits, stretches deep into the spoke holes or exposes the spoke holes. Discoloration happens, but since rim strips aren't usually visible this is not much a problem.


Park Tool FR-5.2 fits Shimano CS-HG50 8 speed road cassette?

Yes, that tool fits all Shimano and SRAM cassette lockrings (as does the FR-5.2G and FR-5.2GT variants).

https://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockring-tool-fr-5-2?category=Cassette%20%26%20Freewheel

  Fits Shimano®, SRAM® (including 1x), SunRace®, SunTour®, Chris King® and other cassette lockrings


11 speed shifter levers on my 10 speed drivetrain

No, won’t work.
Edit: To be more precise: The indexing will be off. The 11 speed road shifters pull more cable for each gear step (each “click”). So you’ll have shifted through the whole 10 speed cassette after 8 or 9 clicks. You won’t be able to shift to certain gears reliably, there will be lots of noise and ghost shifting. Similar to badly adjusted cable tension or a bent derailleur hanger. A 11 speed rear derailleur also won’t solve it since the sprocket spacing is different (they didn’t just add an 11th sprocket).
11 speed road shifters have a different pull ratio than 10 speed (except for the Tiagra 4700 10 speed).
I suggest you try to find a Ultegra 6700 or 105 5700 replacement or change the whole drivetrain to 11 speed.
Edit: When changing to 11 speed in the rear you can probably keep the 10 speed chainrings, front derailleur and left shifter.


It's an incomplete 7-speed 11-34 Shimano CS-HG50, the model name is written on lockring. I think you can use it with spacers/lockring or source missing parts from another 7 speed cassette.


Can I fit a cassette with a larger range with my Shimano Tiagra 10-speed ( GS-4600) derailleur?

With the b-screw tightened all the way on the medium cage GS-4600 tiagra derailleur I was able to install the 11-32 cassette. It was obvious from the appearance that I wouldn't be able to squeeze any larger of a cassette on the rear wheel without switching to a long cage mountain or touring derailleur.

There were no issues when shifting with the 34t front chainring in or out of the 32t rear cog.

However, using the 50t front chainring, shifting out of the large 32t cog was a little off. It worked, but it was lagging a bit and having a harder time jumping to the next cog, probably due to the chain being too short since I didn't adjust the chain length.

This should be solved by adding a link or two to the chain. However, I'm going to be swapping in a 46t large chainring, so that should address the lack of slack. I shouldn't even be in the big ring in the back and the big ring in the front anyway to avoid cross chaining.


How can I move the saddle further forward?

You've exceeded the manufacturer's recommendation on saddle positioning -- the clamp is supposed to clamp on the saddle between the stop lines. So, the saddle should be moved back. Many people exceed these recommendations, but its at your own risk. I'd be less inclined to do it on a lightweight or fancy saddle.

The easiest way to move the saddle forward is to use a different seat post which has more ability to move the saddle forward. There are zero setback seatposts and forward seatposts even (e.g. the Profile Fast Forward line). I'd go for this option.

You can also try reversing the seatpost (e.g. loosen the seatpost, turn the saddle 180 degrees, tighten the seatpost and then remove the saddle and install it so that the front is facing the dropbars; in short, install it back to front). This is usable with some seatposts, but others will be impossible to level properly.


Can a bike wheel be damaged if it's hit by a mop?

I doubt the janitor could unintentionally damage the wheel with the mop by impact -- you don't use much force when mopping, and it would likely just turn the wheel or shift the bike a bit if it was hit. If someone drove their boots into the wheel or something, that could cause damage.

One concern is the chemicals used in the mopping. Certain chemicals (e.g. ammonia) can attack rubber and cause it to degrade prematurely. Depending on the concentration and amount of use, this may be a non-issue.

However, if you are worried about your bike to this level, consider storing your bike elsewhere.


"Lock" brakes so that they are always active

I test-rode a trike that had a parking brake lever.  There was an extra button underneath the housing and when you pull the lever, it clicked in and holds brake lever locked down.
To release parking brake,  you squeeze the lever a bit more and the button pops out.
The brake is to help you load your cargo with the trike not rolling away.
https://www.huskybicycles.com/bicycle-brake-lever-wlock-v-type-left-hand.html looks like it.


What is the difference between DOT brake fluids?

From Wikipedia:

Part of the difference is boiling points:

               Dry boiling point   Wet boiling point
DOT 3       205 °C (401 °F)     140 °C (284 °F)
DOT 4       230 °C (446 °F)     155 °C (311 °F)
DOT 5       260 °C (500 °F)     180 °C (356 °F)
DOT 5.1     270 °C (518 °F)     190 °C (374 °F)

3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol-based, and must be changed periodically, as it absorbs water. 5 is silicone-based and does not need to be replaced.


Looking for Techniques for Riding Uphill on a Single Speed

I ride both SS/FG and approach climbing hills much of the same way I would if I were on a geared bike with one very big exception...MOMENTUM. When on a heavily geared SS/FG I gain as much speed as possible going into the hill and push hard to maintain it throughout the climb.

Basic climbing tips:

Slide back on saddle and drive heels through the bottom of the pedal stroke
If you need to stand, do so while minimizing body sway and unnecessary counterproductive upper body motion
Get into a rhythm - climb at your own pace
Stay upright to keep lungs operating at full capacity
Pull handlebars into your thighs as you drive pedals forward

Hope this helps!


Depending on how broad the perspective you're asking from is, the answer could reasonably be no or yes.
Going by mainstream norms, you're talking about a 1x drivetrain with a narrow-wide ring, and your main setup choice is changuide or not. Extent NW rings are basically compatible with whatever chain you want except Shimano 12, and I don't think there's a scenario where the guide you choose if any informs what ring/chain you can use. So from that perspective, among crank/ring/bb setups that give the right chainline for your rear end, the main other problem you can get into is putting a Shimano 12 chain on a ring that's too wide for it. Other than that it's basically all cross compatible, including Eagle with any narrow-wide as far as I know. (There may be some kind of fringe exception, but it's not common.)
From the perspective of all chainring setups and cassettes ever, yes, there are potential mismatches too numerous to list.
So it depends what you mean, or perhaps more usefully, it depends on whether this is an all new build from a new frame or whether there's older stuff in the mix.


Why are most commuting panniers designed as shoulder bags and not backpacks?

They exist, but they're hard to find in real life, probably because the market is small. All the ones I've looked into would take a large laptop, but I've only tested with little netbooks. There's at least one fairly recent review online.
I'm in a similar position: sometimes I need to walk or even run with my pannier (also I switch between bikes daily). I need to carry work clothes but not smart ones. I've had two backpack panniers both in the 20--30 litre class. That's enough for a change of clothes and a laptop, plus cycling essentials, and even a gym kit, but a (large) pair of shoes is a squeeze.
The cheap one (£20--40 £/$/€ on eBay/amazon) was quite big. It had some nice features, but converting between modes was slow and relied on removing a plate that held the rack hooks. This wasn't as secure as I would have liked -- it fell off a few times until I reinforced it; the rack hooks also needed replacing with stronger ones (Carradice) after the flimsy plastic failed. A year of daily use and the fabric is going on the corners.  The straps and back pad zipped away when not in use, which kept the mud off, though they still got  a little damp and some dirt from corners could get on clothes.

The new one from Altura is made of much tougher fabric and is much easier to convert. The backpack straps are on the outside when riding, away from the wheel and therefore the worst of the dirty splashes. This also means no adaptor plate to lose. This came from a large (chain) bike shop, but they only had the one type in stock. This meant I could try it on (but not on the bike which was in the wrong city). You may need to decide whether you want a left or right model as some are tilted to avoid heel strike. I got this wrong but can get away with it on a big frame.   This was good after a very early warranty replacement for a failed main zip, but the zips are clearly a weak point because the main one broke after a couple of years.  I'd like to replace it but that looks very difficult so I'm back on a cheap backpack

To return to the headline question: many people settle on a backpack (or even a shoulder bag) for this type of need, reducing the size of the market for convertibles (which also need more design and hardware so are more expensive). I could in the winter but the extra sweating rules it out even in mild summers we have here. You can of course stuff a backpack in a front basket, or strap it on to a special handlebar rack -- the latter would probably be better for a laptop.
I'm sure many people (like me) return to their desk at the beginning and end of the day and can dump the pannier there. I keep a different bag (conference freebie) for when I need to carry more than a handful of stuff around the site. While this may not suit you, it further reduces the market. In fact my laptop shoulder bag pannier has an insert sleeve that did this job very nicely when I rode door-to-door rather than the convoluted commute I have now.
Something to look out for when choosing from the few options that do exist, is how well do they carry a helmet (assuming you don't want it clipped on with its own strap and swinging around).  My old one can fit a helmet in the outer pocket only if the whole bag isn't too full; on my new one you can tuck the helmet in to the pocket formed by the cover for the rack attachment points however full the bag is.


Any shock with an eye to eye length of 20.0 cm (7.9 in) and 5.0cm (2.0in) stroke will fit as a direct replacement for your shock. All the shocks available as OEM options on the 2005 Prohphet used these dimensions.

Any different eye to eye length will alter the geometry of your bike. Any different stroke length will either reduce travel, or if risk damaging your frame if the travel is too long.

As to setup, that will depend on your weight and riding style. I will add that the prophet is a single pivot design, so you may benefit from platform technology to prevent bobbing.


As others have said, just because the bike shop says it's a good fit, doesn't make it so. Their incentive is to sell a bike off the floor so they'll find the one that fits best and sell it to you.

I got a custom fit and I have longer thighs than most people. This meant that to get the seat position right, I had to have my saddle further back from the pedals than is typical. I ended up getting a frame built to my measurements.

It's possible you have the same setup. If you can't afford a bike fit, then look for a "setback seatpost" and you can do some trial and error.

The goal of having the seat in the right position for you is to allow your legs to cantilever your torso and "unweight" your hands, arms and shoulders. Here's an article that talks about the benefits of unweighting your arms and how far back to set your seat to achieve this.


Importance of "H.E." rim designation on MTB to tire fitment?

I suspect "H/E" means "Hook-edged". This would apply to almost every MTB rim.

I have two bikes with slicks on MTB rims. I currently use Schwalbe Kojak 26 x 1.35" on one, and Schwalbe Marathon Racer 26 x 1.5" on the other.


(Re-worked this answer completely because I forgot at first that M770 hubs have nonstandard axles).

First of all, under almost all circumstances, you should leave the integrated cone/axle unit of hubs like this alone, other than maybe the fringe case of making one good one out of two identical bad ones or something weird like that.

I'm assuming it's clear that you must find some way of getting the drive side cone permanently re-attached to the axle, because it doesn't mechanically lock in place like a standard axle. Epoxy in the threads, etc.

The approach I would take here is try to find witness marks on at least one of the cones or the axle that show you about what the original thread engagement was on at least one piece of it when the drive side cone was originally affixed to the axle. Combine that piece of information with the knowledge that the over-locknut dimension is 135mm and you should be able to make everything fall into place.

Alternatively, if Shimano's EV diagrams were 100% to scale, down to the representation of the thread pitch, counting threads on the diagram would get you there pretty closely. I suspect they might be that accurate but I'm not really sure.

But to answer the specific question, nothing is getting put out of alignment in terms of the wheel/rim relative to the frame or brakes if you eyeballed it when putting it back together. It just means that one piece has a little more thread engagement and the other has that much less. In extreme situations that could present its own issues in terms of the parts being properly secured and the threads staying in good shape, and hypothetically as a result of the strong, full-thickness part of the axle being in the right spot, but in this situation 1mm probably won't make any difference.


Is it legal to pass a car on the right when that car is turning?

Is it legal? That depends on the country's traffic laws and on the exact layout of the intersection. The traffic laws that I am familiar with (Denmark, Austria) indicate that the bicyclist you describe was wrong to overtake a right-turning car on the car's right side.

If there is a bike lane that extends through the intersection, then AFAIK the cyclist always has right of way. The car must wait until it can turn without blocking any bikes.

If there is a bike lane that stops before the intersection, or
if there is no bike lane then the cyclist must place himself in the proper traffic lane. If he wants to go straight, he may not be in the right-turn lane.

As a driver, what I usually do coming to a stop at an intersection is to place my car so close to the curb that no bikes can pass on that side. Safety benefits:
If they want to go straight, they can safely overtake me on my left side.
If they want to turn right too, they must line up behind me and turn after I have turned.

As a cyclist, I always operate under the assumption that I am invisible, because too many drivers neglect to look for bicycle traffic. (They often neglect to check for any traffic, but that's irrelevant on this site.)

The above presumes right-hand driving.


Answering your questions about the Derailleur Alignment Gauge

The bike is positioned level as it easier is to reference and reset the horizontal and vertical alignments.
The wording around Condition C is a little vague.  If the hanger is bent (as in Condition C), as you straighten it your original reference position will have shifted, so head back to 9:00 position to reset the gauge, then go back to position 3:00, and check the alignment again. If more horizontal straightening is required you will need to go back to position 9:00 and reset reset gauge after each straightening session, then head back to position 3:00 to check how you are doing on alignment. Repeat until straight or beer calls you away.
You will use the tool itself to bend the hanger back into position.  You will want to put force on either the horizontal axis or vertical axis depending on how the hanger is misaligned. Keeping the bike level (Q1) makes this easier to do.  Typically, I use the frame for leverage.


Upgrading crankset on a 2001 Bianchi Grizzly

I looked at the Bicycle Blue Book page on the 2001 Bianchi Grizzly, and what you included in your question matches up - 110mm spindle BB, Raceface Progidy LP triple crank.

The important thing to get right with a new crank is the chainline. If that's correct the front derailleur range or movement should cover the chainrings properly.

Standard MTB triple chainline was 47.5mm (see this Sheldon Brown Page) and I think it's safe to assume that's what the Bianchi has (you can check it of course). Presumably you also have a rear dropout spacing of 135mm.

You can get a new crank that will fit on the existing bottom bracket, but different model cranks require a different length BB axle to get the right chainline, so you are probably better off replacing the bottom bracket along with the crank. I'm not sure if you have a square taper or one of the splined types, if the later a BB would probably be hard to find. Also, a 18 year old BB probably should be replaced.

If you are going with a Shimano crank, you just need to look up in the Shimano specifications what chainline potential candidates provide (and the intended rear dropout spacing). The Shimano specs typically tell you what BB and axle length you need also In current Shimano products believe only Tourney level cranks are available in 8/9 speed triple and will give you the right chainline, so you might need to look at older used cranks. Fortunately Shimano provides an archive of specification documents.


It might be hard to tell by closely inspecting the repair how well the work was done, or for that matter how badly the frame was damaged. I would ask to see pics of how the damage looked prior to repair. I would inquire about his experience repairing carbon frames, see if he has any testimonies from other customers. I assume he buys cracked frames and repairs them to resell as a business or side job? It might be great work, but a testimony would help me decide. I would also dig around a little to figure what the value of that build would be if the frame had not been damaged.Maybe you can find a similar build priced well that hasn't been damaged?
Take it for a good test ride. See if he can offer a return if anything goes wrong at the damaged stay within a set time frame. Try to talk him down? These are all things I would try. It really just depends on how much you want the bike and how much you trust the guy you are doing business with.


Front derailleur range suddenly has become very short

I had this happen a couple of times. Turned out to be a little rock got in the derailleur mechanism.


Bosch Nyon computer -- syncs but no activities are transferred

When you remove the Nyon from your bike, don't turn it off, as removing it from the bike is its signal to transfer data by bluetooth to your phone. It then turns itself off automatically after 5 mins.


bicycle pedal design specifications for threads

Just about all pedals for bicycles will use the same threads. According to Sheldon brown the standard size is 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. One piece "American" cranks use 1/2" x 20 tpi threads, but these are only found on low end bikes and children's bikes.  There's been a couple other sizes used in the past, but almost all modern bicycles will use the two above sizes.

It's also worth noting that the left hand pedal uses a reverse (counter-clockwise) thread to prevent it from loosening on it's own when pedaling.  The right hand pedal uses a standard (clockwise) thread.


Are Avids BB7 superior to the Hayes Stroker Ryde?

As mattnz hinted at in the related question, not all hydraulic brakes are necessarily going to perform better than cable brakes, and it looks like you've hit that nail on the head with this comparison.

The Stroker Rydes are well known to be painfully poor quality. You would have absolutely no reason not to choose the BB7s in this case.


What do I have to know, to replace my hydraulic disc brakes with new ones?

(within reason) Any disc brake will fit on any bike with the right adaptors.

The adapter you need will be based on the size of the rotor (disc) you want to run, the mounts you have on the bike (IS/post) and the brake you're trying to fit. Most callipers will have post mount fittings so require a adapter to fit to any IS mounts. Most frames still have IS mounts on the rear, while most newer forks have post mounts. They can be identified through how they are orientated, post mounts go into the fork or frame, IS mounts are orientated the same as the bikes axles.

When purchasing brakes Shimano callipers come separate of rotor and mounting adapter, Avid comes pre-packaged with everything so you simply buy the size you require. Smaller brands vary.

You need to be aware that the size of rotor makes a difference and some forks/frames are only rated up to a certain rotor size; any larger could cause the parts to fail.

There are two different standards for fixing the rotor to the hub - standard 6-bolt and shimano centrelock.

The bolts are standard thread (for all examples I've seen) but the length will vary for post mount brakes. You need to ensure that you use the correct length screws for post mounts. Short bolts can (some say will) lead to catastrophic failure.

The other point to bear in mind is that the hydraulic hose length for the rear brake may have significant extra length (c.300mm) and requires a moderate level of technical skill to shorten. The rest of the install can be done by hex wrench and T25 driver/wrench. A torque wrench is recommended but not mandatory. Other considerations will be cable routing, securing the hose and whether the brake mounts need facing.


How to tell if a chain should be replaced with park chain checker when it doesn't fit?

As Argenti Apparatus indicated the "go" / "no go" wear gauge such as the CC-3.2 indicates that the elongation has not yet reached 0.5%.  If you want some sort of measurement below that (i.e., 0% to 0.5%) you will need to use a different gauge such as the CC-2, measure the inter rivet difference via a ruler, or use a pair of Vernier calipers to measure the roller to roller difference then convert it to a percent stretch.

Using Vernier Calipers

My preference is for the Vernier caliper approach as I could it to give very reliable and repeatable measurements if done right.  Methodology can be found in this answer.

Example of an inner link measurement (10 links apart)

I use the lookup table below to convert an inter-roller distance 10 links apart to percent stretch (calibration methods can be found here)

Predicting Service Date

I then periodically take a few measurements to predict service dates using a regression approach, such as the example below for a KMC X11-SL chain.  As you can see wear rate is fairly linear so extrapolating outside observed data range isn't too problematic (assuming we use the chain under similar conditions).  In this case, the regression model predicts it will be time to change the chain at about 3,250 km.   If you want to get even more complicated it is fairly straight forward to add confidence intervals to the prediction, then check again at the lower confidence bound.


Most bicycle parts are fairly standard, and your bike doesn't look like an exception. There are several mail order stores and local shops that sell bike parts, just pick one. This site is fairly fanatical about not making recommendations, but just knowing your location could help.

Good places to start reading about bike maintenance and repair are http://sheldonbrown.com and http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/.


after heavy rain or washing, which parts of the bike to re-lube and with what?

The chain is the big one where you're going to notice a clear difference if it's not lubricated correctly. Even then, how much rain it takes to actually wash out the lube depends entirely on what you're using and how much is on there. Over-lubricating your chain is one of the most common mistakes in bike maintenance. Particularly if you're using a wet lube, you want to know what a dry chain looks and feels like and re-lube then, but not much before. Dry lubes are less sensitive to this - because their liquid part is mostly (depending on the exact lube) a volatile solvent that just evaporates, over-lubricating or haphazard technique won't result in the chain being a sticky mess, or at least not as readily.

For derailer and caliper brake pivots, the differences are mostly incremental. Lubricating them will make things a little bit smoother and is a nice way of keeping things working their best, but usually won't make the critical difference in whether they work period. I do it by putting a drop of light viscosity wet lube like Triflow or Dumonde Lite at each pivot, and I use that pretty much regardless of riding conditions. I find that thick oils don't wick in there very well and dry lubes don't stand up to rain very long, although they're fine in a pinch or for dry riding. I also put a drop at the gap of each RD pulley to help prevent squeaks. That's a spot that can be over-lubricated, but a drop or two is good in general. Some pulleys are much more squeak prone than others. I generally don't lubricate mechanical disc caliper armatures because the actual pivoting surfaces are pretty far down in there, and often it's a cartridge bearing anyway. Lubes that are designed to wick and migrate freely are also a good thing to avoid getting anywhere near a disc brake if you can help it.

The big problem with getting aerosols involved anywhere is it's very easy to get lube where you don't want it, like rims, rotors, and brake pads. In the case of blasting entire brakes and derailers to lube the pivots, you're leaving some kind of oil coating on everything else, which will gather dust if it's dry and get washed off (potentially onto your braking surfaces in the case of a rim brake) if it rains. That said, a lot of people do it to derailers with no real ill effect, although I'd still recommend careful technique, and using a rag to shield everything else. As for the video you link to, you can actually see him hit his rims with the WD40 when lubing the RD, and lubing brakes that way is really asking for trouble. WD40 itself is a reasonable lube for pivots as the solvent part evaporates and leaves an oil coating behind.

The other piece of this is cable lubrication, which can be one of the more pedantically controversial topics of internet bike mechanical discussions, and also an area where what works best is most bike- and conditions-dependent. Lubricating cables always introduces some propensity for them to attract grit, which has lead some to say just don't do it, especially since modern housings have slick plastic liners. While over-lubricating or using the wrong lube can certainly cause problems, I find that 9+ speed bikes with normal non-continous housings need it on their RD gear cables at least to work right consistently, particularly in the rear RD housing loop. I live somewhere where rain is ever-present, and my preferred housing lubes for all bikes are the dryest and least sticky of dry lubes, like White Lightning Clean Ride (formerly White Lightning) or Finish Line Dry (formerly FL Tef Plus). I find that these don't really ever cause problems to speak of with drawing in grit. Using a very tiny (like half a pea) dab of very light, slick grease like Slick Honey on gloved fingers to coat the cable under the RD housing loop also works well in wet environments, again because it's a bit of a potential trouble spot and having something a bit more tenacious works well. As it relates to the question, I'm not saying do this all the time, but riding in heavy rain will make you need to check cable lubrication more often.


If the shifter does not move the derailleur at all, then either:

A cable housing has come free from the shifter unit, frame boss or derailleur
A cable end has detached from the shifter
A cable end has detached from the derailleur
The cable has broken (least likely)

Basic things you can do to find the problem:

Find an exposed bit of cable (the inner silver cable, not the black housing) on the frame somewhere. It should be taught and not loose.
Inspect the shifter cable run from the shifter to the derailleur, make sure the cable housing is inserted into the shifter unit, all frame bosses and the derailleur.
Find an exposed bit of cable near the derailleur, grab hold if it (using pliers will help), put a little tension on it and operate the shifter. If the cable moves it's attached to the shifter.

If the cable is moving near the derailleur when the shifter is operated, check the cable is attached to the derailleur.


How to make sure that the brake cable anchor bolt properly holds the cable?

To check the holding ability of the screw, while stationary, squeeze the lever as hard as you can and see if the cable anchor retains the cable. There should not be enough slack to allow the brake lever to contact the handgrip. The reason for not wrapping the cable around the screw is the cable strands are more likely to break from the tight bending. It also would make it difficult to reposition the cable to adjust for wear or pad replacement.


Safe cycling lights red but the man is green

If you are in the UK this is an offence. You are traffic, therefore must obey the red.

Consequences could be a pull by the police and a fine!

I am not sure about other jurisdictions.


If an aluminum fork dropout has been bent, it has already been compromised in strength. Bending it back will make matters worse. Filing it wider open will also make matters worse, even if it was not already bent: thinner metal can obviously carry less load.

I would say don't risk it and find a replacement fork instead. A fork failure when riding can cost you teeth or worse if you crash.

For the future, to prevent bending dropouts/forks/chainstays when transporting bicycle, it is recommended to insert "dummy" hubs when wheels are removed and to fasten them with your wheel axles. This way, any strike to the frame is more likely to be deflected and won't cause a permanent deformation. Of course, having a wheel axle in place would also help dropouts to survive as it will back them up.

A dummy hub can be just a piece of wood wide enough to fit between rear/front dropouts and with a hole big enough for the axle. Or it can be indeed an old hub without rim/spokes/etc.


Maybe one of Revelate Designs Jerry Can bags would work for you.  The mount on the front side of the seatpost and would leave the rear of your seat post open for your camera.  They are pretty versatile, I have used one on top of the triangle, inside the triangle and a few other places I won't mention.


Rock Shox Recon does not "completely" lock

RockShox FAQ FRONT SUSPENSION Remotes/Lock Outs:

  Why Isn’t The Lockout Function Completely Locked, Instead, There’s A
  Bit Of Travel?
  Please know the lockout setting on most RockShox forks is not a “hard
  lockout”- meaning you will have about an inch of movement when the
  fork is the locked mode. We call this feature Small Bump Compliance,
  and the intention is that the wheel will continue to track over
  ground with control, even in the locked setting.


How accurate are the power numbers from a Tacx Flow?

The Flow appears to be quite consistent though, depending on the mode in which it is used, it can be quite inaccurate.

Below is a plot of reported power for speed on the Flow, with each line representing a different "scale factor." All of these data were collected at a coast down calibration of 0, with the same tire, at the same ambient room temperature; however, the red dots represent data that were collected 4 months later than the black dots. As can be seen, when conditions are matched, the consistency of the Flow appears to be quite good.

The plot above compares the Flow to itself. Similar to what zenbiker has noted above for the Tacx Fortius, when compared against an on-bike power meter the Flow tends to underreport -- though as one might expect from the plot above it underreports consistently. In my own case, with my own tires, a better agreement between the Flow and a Power Tap (which had been statically-checked for accuracy) could be achieved with a coast down calibration of 4 and a scale factor of 120, though I suspect that could differ from tire to tire.

A greater problem for the Flow is its ability to adjust load while in "ergo" mode. In that case, one sets the power level and then, in theory at least, one can pedal at different cadences and speeds while the Flow adjusts the load to keep power constant. Sadly, here the Flow was overmatched. The plot below shows the percent error for three different scale factors (80, 100, and 120) when plotted against the ratio of "ergo power" to speed. That is, suppose you set the Flow to hold its power in ergo mode at 250 watts and pedaled at 20 km/h, then 30 km/h, then 40 km/h, and so on. The ratio of ergo power to speed (in km/h) would be 12.5, 8.3, 6.25, and so on. If the Flow were able to adjust its load at different wheel speeds, each group of points would be horizontal and parallel, and, in an ideal world one could adjust the scale factor to move some group of points up or down until it hovered over the zero error line. Why look at the ratio of power to speed? Power is the product of wheel speed and wheel torque (and a constant) so dividing the ergo power setting by wheel speed gives the torque at the Flow's roller.

What you will see is that the groups of points are far from horizontal so the error between the power desired and actual power (as measured with a Power Tap) is not at all constant. At high wheel speeds the Flow is unable to generate enough load to maintain constant power. Whether that inability is related to the load generator itself (which is also used in the I-Magic) or the Flow's control head, I could not determine.


Could be a number of things:

Cassette is loose on the freehub body. If the cassette lockring has come loose the cassette sprockets can slide axially on the freehub body and possible 'rock' on it a little. If you take the wheel out of the frame you should be able to see of the lockring is loose quite easily. To tighten it you need a chainwhip, lockring tool and a big wrench. It would not cost much to have local bike repair shop do this.

Freehub body is loose on the hub: If it looks like the cassette is firmly on the freehub body, but is moving relative to the rest of the hub, the body may be loose, or one of the bearings supporting it is damaged. To tighten the freehub you'd need to get the cassette off, and then figure out how your particular freehub is secured. Again, your local bie repair shop can do this for you.

Possibly the axle or hub bearings are broken. With the wheel in the bike try pushing and pulling laterally on the wheel rim. If there damage to the bearings there will be movement.

If the freehub or hub bearings are damaged on an inexpensive bike the best thing to do is just get a whole new wheel. Inexpensive wheels are not worth rebuilding to replace the hub as the cost of rebuilding will be a significant fraction of the cost of a new wheel.


Your title answers your question.

After the ride, wipe down the bike so that there is no excess moisture. Make sure that the bike is stored indoors, in a dry, warm environment,  so that any remaining moisture can evaporate.

If you have a steel frame, consider using a frame preparation like Frame Saver, if you're going to ride in the rain regularly.

And last, make sure you do you regular maintenance. Open up all the bearing areas (hubs, headset, and bottom bracket) and clean and grease them regularly. Grease is protection from water and corrosion as much as it is a lubricant, so this is important to keep it running smoothly, as well as protect from weather.

I hope that helps.


Rental bike for holiday: wise to change handlebar style?

I'd recommend getting used to a new handlebar style (or frame geometry or any other change) slowly. On a multi-day trip problems tend to accumulate, so I would't recommend trying anything new. An additional problem with drop bars is that the brake and shift levers work differently and some people seem to have problems getting used to them.

You could try to rent a bike with drop bars at home and see how it works out.

Edit: For the kind of trip you are planning, many cyclists prefer drop bars. I would recommend trying out them if possible.


How to install brakes with clamps that are too tight

A general procedure with too tight clamps: Put in the screw or a longer one of the same diameter from the opposite side. Fit a piece of (hard, like a small coin) metal into the slot. Tighten the screw carefully. It should open the clamp enough to fit it over the bar