There are a few ways you can do the magnet sensing:

Reed switch (a switch which physically closes with a magnetic field). If you swap the two wires, the sensor will work fine (i.e. it doesn't matter). You can test for this using the continuity tester mode of your multimeter (you'll have continuity if the magnet is near the sensor, and open circuit with the magnet far away).
Hall effect sensor (Generally, there are 3 wires on here: Vdd, ground and the output of the sensor). There are 3!=6 ways you can wire it (so 5 ways to mess it up). Most likely, you won't get a reading from the sensor until you get it right if you don't hook it up correctly. As noted by Chris H, if you have a Hall effect sensor, chances are the wires will be color coded so you'll figure out Vdd and ground, and the remainder is output. Your multimeter won't really help you here.
An inductor (basically, a coil of wire). If you swap the two wires, the sensor would work fine (it'd be equivalent to moving the sensor to the other side of the bike, i.e. it doesn't matter). Your multimeter will show continuity always, but if you have a LCR meter, you can check the inductance. If you measure resistance,  you should see a few ohms.

So, basically, if you have 2 wires, chances are you can swap them without worrying and the thing should work. If you have 3, maybe you'll have to disassemble the sensor, figure out which sensor is in there and then look up the pinout (or guess based on color coding of the wires).

There are a few more types of magnetic switches, but they're unlikely to occur in this application.


How to compensate broken thread in brake barrel adjuster?

It would require replacing your brake cable housing (and you may want to replace the cable at the same time) but there are brake cables with inline barrel adjusters. In these, the barrel adjuster is usually situated somewhere between the brake lever, and the braze-on at the front of the bike. They look something like this and are sold by themselves, or often included with the cable housing.  As your local bike shop and they should be able to get you something that will work.


I just put too much air and tired popped can i fix it with bike patch i never patched bike before

The answer is almost definitely not.  There are basically 2 ways your tire can fail by over-pressurizing it; either you blew the bead off the rim or you tore the tire.
In the former case you need to make sure that it didn't damage the bead or the rim (the latter is not likely, but has happened).  If the bead is damaged you'll want a new tire; even if this one still works at lower pressures, you've compromised its safety margin.
The latter, more likely, case is that you tore the tire somewhere, almost definitely on the sidewall.  Unlike a puncture, which is a small point-like hole, a tear like this in the fabric of the tire isn't a simple patch job.  A small (short) gash in the sidewall can be temporarily patched with a tire boot, which is reasonable for use in an emergency (as are comparable patches, like a piece of cardboard, etc.) but not recommended for on-going use.  However a tear from the sidewall failing under pressure is unlikely to be short; once a rip starts, it will likely be several centimetres long before the pressure is relieved.  It's not possible to say exactly, but I'd estimate anything over 3 cm long is unlikely to be safely patched (at all).
Basically, if you blew out a tire you should replace it.  And if it blew off the rim, instead of tearing, you need to check the rim for damage too (and possibly replace it).  You can do this by spinning the rim and making sure there are no deviations from a planar circle.  If you don't have rim brakes you can do this with a piece of chalk taped to the seat stay.
(Note, I had a rim fail on me - it basically wore down enough along the braking track that it folded over under pressure from the tire - and it still damaged the bead of the tire when it blew off.  Not enough to make it unworkable, but enough that I put a new tire on the new rim.)


Mountain bicycle miles convert to road bicycle miles

As @Daniel said in his comment, use time as he bases for any comparison. I have had MTB rides where I have averaged under 8km/hour (5 mph), and others where I average over 20km/h (12.5 mph) over a similar time frame. What does not change is how much effort I put in over that time, but the consistency of that effort does.

What I find difficult transitioning from MTB to Road is on a Road bike you spend a lot more time in the riding position producing the same output - consistency is far more important than on the MTB. The 'mental space' on the road is hard for me as I get bored too easily. 160 km (100 miles, a century) days on roads does my head in more than my muscles, where as 6 hours/60 km (10 km/h or 6.2 mph) technical MTB and I have nothing left in the tank at the end but will still be enjoying it.

If you can comfortably do 26 mile (42 km) MTB, stop thinking about it and do it - whats the worst that happens?


One note is that the gearing is different, assuming they're still stock.

The Specialized Langster London has a 42t chainring and 16t cog, the 2013 Langster has a 48t chanring and 17t cog.  With 700x25 tires that means they are 69.6 and 74.6 gear inches respectively.

What that means is that spinning at 100rpm, you're going ~22mph on the Langster and only ~20mph on the London.  So it will feel slower when you're trying to go flat out.


I haven't ever seen an inline adjuster gummed up that badly. What normally makes any cable adjuster hard to turn is the cable outer jamming into the adjuster so that turning the adjuster just twists the cable outer. I add a bit of my universal tool (grease-based chain lube :) to where the outer enters the adjuster and give it a couple of seconds to penetrate before having another go.

What I suggest is taking them off the bike, taking them apart and greasing them. Grease both the threaded part and the cable entry.

In this pic you have the turning part in a shiny silver, and almost hidden inside it is the stationary part that's a darker colour. I would unscrew those parts and grease the thread, then also put grease in the end of the rotating part - into the opening at the bottom of the left hand part above. That way the end of the cable outer that goes into there can slip easily when you turn the silver part.


They don't need them but they are good to have. I have an e-bike that I use as a daily commuter. Here are my thoughts:

E-bikes are heavier than regular bikes and put considerably more power out at the rear wheel (my motor has 350 watts, I add maybe 60-80 watts at most) compared to a regular bike which only has 80 watts alone.
if you have an ebike with a rear hub motor, that’s a considerable amount of unsprung weight at the rear. It’s much harder to hop curbs and potholes with an ebike so it’s getting whacked much harder
E-bikes travel at much higher average speeds than regular commuter bikes. I average 30km/h with peaks of 40km/h which is the electronic assist speed limit. More importantly, I don't make any attempt to conserve inertia as I do with a regular bike, so I stop at all the stop signs and traffic lights. Thus, there's a  lot of braking and acceleration that I do that is hard on the bike and its wheels.
Finally, the rear tire needs to be sturdy as it is getting more wear and also taking bigger hits on bumps at higher speeds than a standard tire.

All in all, I'm still on the original tire which is a regular tire. I'm on the tail end of its lifetime which has only been about 1/3 that of a regular tire. I will replace it either with a beefy "regular" tire or go with one from an e-bike line. I think the actual difference between the two (beefy regular or touring and a e-bike tire) will in reality be minimal.

Update 2018.7: I ended up replacing my rear tire ahead of schedule due to a sidewalk blowout. I’m not actually sure if it was natural wear or if the bike was shivved by a thief. Replaced with a tire from an ebike tire line.

TL;DR: Ebikes require a strong, hard-wearing, high speed, puncture resistant tire. These are also roughly the same requirements as touring tires so some vendors are labeling their touring tires as "ebike ready."


Which electrical freight bicycle would you recommend?

Sadly these kinds of shopping questions tend to be closed as off-topic because they directly compare two things, and the answers only have a short shelf life.

My general advise is the same for any bike.  It must be comfortable for you, and fit you, and suit the environment in which you intent to use it.  That means getting a leg over and test-riding both.
Try and spend at least a short time on leg power only, before using the electrics.  You might feel differently about the options depending on that.
Extra thoughts about a cargo bike

They're not small - do you have room to store it?
They're not cheap - can you store it securely?  Cargo bikes are desirable and attract thieves.
Even unloaded cargo bikes tend to be heavy.  Will that be an issue (ie do you have stairs etc)
For the special loads, you'll want a bench seat, possibly removable. and a couple of seatbelts.   For the dog, you'll want an eyebolt or similar in the middle of the floor to secure a walking lead, to stop dog jumping over either side.
Insurance - does yours cover a pricy cargo bike?
Batteries - they tend to not last as long when the bike weight increases.  Make sure you can either fit several, or at least carry enough spares to swap.  On the flip side, its a bike, so ultimately you can pedal it without battery.  Thus "range anxiety" is less of an issue than an electric car where you're otherwise stranded.

Remember Batteries are consumables - make sure you can still buy them in the future.  They're not cheap either.


Why would tube patch sometimes peel off with backing?

I've found that the amount of time I let the glue dry makes the biggest difference. It really needs to get from "wet" to "tacky" to work best. Scraping the tube and the glue brand make a bit of difference too.

If the patch seems relatively well stuck, but comes up when you try to take the backing off, just leave the backing on; it won't hurt anything.


Hydraulic to mechanical conversion - cable routing

You can run the cable outer housing exactly the same as the hydarulic hose.

The main reason for using frame stops is to provide sections that don't suffer from compression of the outer housing under load.  A full run of brake housing could compress and use some of the braking power.

You could solve this by using compressionless brake housing, which has multiple metal bracers instead of a continuous coil.

NOTE I am NOT suggesting to use gear housing as brake housing.  They're different thicknesses.


Can a universal derailleur hanger be a suitable long term solution?

The particular derailleur hanger you linked is not going to fit your bike, I'm afraid. It's more of use with the bicycles that have the almost horizontal forward-facing dropouts.

What you can do is take the remainings of the hanger you have, inspect it for any markings and on a page like https://www.internet-bikes.com/versnellingen/derailleurhangers (I'm not affiliated with them, though I buy my parts there) find the closest match to your broken part.

Or even take your search a step further and browse the webpage of the manufacturer of those hangers and match your part with their catalogue: http://www.marwi-eu.com/gh-catalogue.php (again, not affiliated).

Good luck!


Some tire makers have a thicker center. Specialized Armadillo based tires will work wonders. They are a bit heavier, but worth it.

Specialized Armadillo Tires

Im sure there are others, but this is the one I have used the most on my commuter road bike.


How to best determine if a bike will fit without riding it

The best answer to your question is simply "no."  Unless you've ridden the exact geometry before, there's no great way to know if your body will enjoy the fit.  Sure, there are MANY adjustments you can do to any bike to get it close, but nothing replaces taking the bike out for 20 miles to find out how your body will respond.

Now, with that said, if you haven't been riding a bike on a regular basis and only plan on riding this a limited amount of time, a good fitter could make a reasonable judgment call without any serious problems occurring later.  The bike can be tuned to your needs, as long as the general size is correct.


Training for long distance rides (> 200km)

While gym and spinning are good complementary activities to cycling, I would recommend that you also look at adding an element of riding on a real bike (like the dark knight said in his comment).

For long distance road riding, there are a number of things you need to practice.  In my honest opinion, the two things that need the most practise are:

Sitting down in your saddle for a long period of time - 200 to 300 km will see you sitting down anywhere between 8 and 18 hours (depending on ability and terrain). That is a VERY long time in the saddle even for an experienced rider with the best type of shorts / saddle.
Nutrition - One does not simply ride for more than 3 hours without a tried and tested nutrition plan!  Your body usually stores around 90 minutes worth of glycogen (at Tempo effort). This means that around that time, you should have already eaten and digested food, ready to be burnt up by your muscles.  You should top up these reserves as often as possible, so that you do not go into a minus and become hypoglycemic (bonking).  I usually eat a bar every hour on the hour, sip carbohydrate drinks every 15 minutes (700ml an hour) and I top up in between with gels.  A typical 4 hour bike ride for me burns 3500 calories.  Pro-riders easily go through 8000 cals a DAY!

In addition to the above, it's very important that you have a bike that fits you properly.  I'd recommend having it professionally fitted because you feel all sorts of pains after sitting in the same position all day!

If the weather is really as bad as what you say, then you could consider getting yourself a turbo-trainer or rollers.  You'll get used to sitting on the bike you'll be riding, and provided you have the time, you could also practise your nutrition and eating and drinking on the bike (if required).


Stuck gear hub on the way into a gear on an internal geared hub

Internal gear hubs are full of sproingy bits. This is what a Shimano gear hub looks like inside:

If that doesn't dissuade you, then you should know that Shimano doesn't generally sell replacement parts**. About the only thing that Shimano lets you do is change the oil and the bearings. If the hub is still under warranty, then Shimano will replace it in its entirety rather than trying to fix it. If it's broke out of warranty, then Shimano says: "Sorry, you should have bought a Rohloff."

** Your mileage may vary. As krzski notes, some Shimano dealers in some countries may have spare parts.

Rohloff does have replacement parts but Rohloffs rarely break. Here's one person's take-apart of a Rohloff hub:

The three-speed Sturmey Archer internal gear hubs are a bit less complex, but still I wouldn't take one apart for the lulz.

But before you give up hope, take your bike to a bike shop. It may be as simple a matter that your indicator spindle or shifter cable needs adjusting. Sheldon Brown has very good instructions on how to adjust this (e.g., for Shimano Nexus) but we'd need to know which unit you had for us to give you details here.

Update: You've clarified you have a Microshift shifter, which is commonly used on Shimano IGHs. Follow Sheldon's instructions on adjustment first before attempting repair. Another valid option is to pretend that your bike just doesn't have those gears and to live with it.


This would be completely fine. You only really have to worry when going to a much wider range. Smaller road derailleurs cannot deal well with big differences between the largest and smallest gear, but they can all handle a 15 tooth difference. Things only start to get compatible once you move beyond 11-28.  Shimano/SRAM are compatible for 8-9-10 speed cassettes. Things aren't compatible at the 11 speed level. According to this chart, Shimano and SRAM mountain Cassettes are compatible at 11 speed, but for the road there is a small difference in sprocket pitch.


What should I expect from a bicycle service?

These services vary wildly from shop to shop.

My local shop will look at any bike and tell the owner if it's safe to ride. And of course, they'll tell the owner how much it would cost to make it safe if it's not already. They're pretty honest about it, but of course I can't guarantee that other places are.

Most shops offer a free "tune-up" with the purchase of a new bike. This usually includes minor maintenance and inspections such as tightening bolts, airing up tires, adjusting brake and derailleur cable tightness, checking that the wheels are true, etc., but no parts replacement. If the bike was not purchased from the shop in question, they will usually offer the same tune-up service for a relatively low fee, $25 (~£16) US where I live.

Many shops offer additional service levels beyond this. They may include replacing cables and/or cable housing, bar tape, brake pads, actually truing the wheels (this can be a more time consuming job and may not be included in a basic tune-up), and perhaps even a bike wash. These tune-ups can get fairly expensive, $100-$150 (£67-£100) US.

Exactly how much you pay for any tune-up will depend on exactly what combination of services a shop offers and the amount of local competition, so you should really shop around.


Front derailleur adjustment question: what to adjust

If I were you, I would first get new cables and maybe even housing for the derailleur cables. Put the barrel adjusters in sort of the middle and change the cables. If it's still having an issue, then the problem might lie in the upper limit of the derailleur. Check the limit screws on the derailleur and loosen the upper one.


I did some googling and don't see the answer spelled out specifically, which is typical for anything Miche.
Don't do it. It's reasonable to assume for a wheel like this, a racey track set with no visual indication of a brake track and with graphics where a brake track would usually be, that the wall thickness has nothing to give safely. For dedicated track wheels that's a feature, not a bug.


Standing up, worth practising for a casual cyclist?

As you have found, pedalling out of the saddle can generate more power than remaining in the saddle, but it is also a more difficult position to maintain. The gains in power is why you see the technique frequently used in racing, but that doesn't mean you can't use it for transportation or casual cycling. In fact it can be beneficial as the human body does not respond well to being restrained in one position for long periods of time.  Interspersing periods where you pedal out of the saddle can be a good way to allow your body to change positions, relaxing some of your postural muscles and allows different leg muscles to be used.

You do not need to ride long periods out of the saddle to gain some of these benefits. 30 seconds out of the saddle is not a trivial amount of time.  I would suggest keeping the period of time shorter if you find your self tired after 30 seconds, but try increasing the frequency of times you ride out of the saddle.  This is will help build endurance, without having to turn your legs into noodles.

  Does it perhaps use different muscles so can be used to alternate with sitting on a hilly route or something, or is it fundamentally a hard core skill?

I wouldn't call it a hardcore skill per se, but hard core riders will use the technique more frequently.  Even if you are not "hardcore" (whatever that is), it can still be useful to more casual riding.  Perhaps you have go for a longer ride than usual, and you are finding you are having difficulty on a hill, standing can help you get over the hill. Or perhaps you are carrying more weight on the bike than you usually ride with (e.g, a big grocery run), pedalling out of the saddle can help you to get moving and up hills you may encounter.


Frame and Fork compatibility - 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"

While there are options for mounting a smaller fork in a larger headtube, they're rare, weird and expensive.

For the opposite - The only way to mount a larger fork steerer in a smaller head tube is swap frame or fork, or replace the steerer on the fork.  Either will have costs.

Sounds like you need to find a fork that will fit your frame. Sorry.


Cheapest way to make 8 speed folding bike a good climber

I've done something similar with a 6 speed bike  (42 tooth chainring, and 14-28 rear.

Its now a 48/38/28 with an 8 speed 11-32 cassette, so the lowest climbing gear is 15.4 gear-inches.

A folding bike is kinda bad for touring for multiple reasons

Small wheels make everything harder.  Mine's got 20" wheels, some are 16" and some might be as large as 24"  Small wheels make the chainstay shorter than full sized bikes, so you can't use rear panniers.  Also, if I have a load on my rear carrier I get heel-strike.   There's little space on the front forks for panniers, and anything you did fit would interfere with folding the bike.
Weight balance is dreadful on a climb.  Mine's got a super-long seatpost, so when on a decent climb you have to be out of the saddle, else it gets very lifty.
Weight balance is bad then too - I've had the rear wheel simply loose traction on climbs, mostly when I've put a bit of extra push on it to get up and over a lip, or a bit of loose gravel.
Pedals - if your folder has folding pedals with plastic, either change them for normal pedals or get some high quality MKS folding/clipout ones.  Mine had plastic shells and a plastic tang on the locking mechanism, so the only way they held load was when pressure was put on the stubby bit right by the crank/thread.
Gearing - if you shrink the single chainring, then you have lost top-end gears.  It is a horrid feeling when riding in the highest gear you have, and you're still spinning out and bouncing in the saddle.

SOLUTION: Fit at least a compact double chainring.  Or do what I did and fit a spare triple chainring from some old MTB.  The main downside is there's nowhere on my frame to attach any kind of front derailleur, so changing is a finger-dirtying shift with your right hand.  Also, big/big gives a bad chainline which can cause the chain to drop to the middle chainring on bounces.

You could also explore a new BB like a schlumph mountain drive, which is a 2 speed IGH in the front chainring.  Downside, it will be expensive.


What kind of master link is most convenient for IGH / fixie / ss setups?

The chain path of an IGH or a fixie/singlespeed bike is really quite simple, and in the end, whether to use a masterlink or a one-piece chain really comes down to personal preference. Which is most convenient depends on your skills.

I've found that it's best to use a chain with a masterlink, simply because of the ease of removing the chain for cleaning. Using a chain tool takes me a bit longer than unclipping a masterlink. If you slip up and push the pin out of the chain, it can be very difficult if not impossible to replace it back into the link. (If you can even find the missing pin!)

I assume when you're talking about dialing in slack, you mean moving the rear wheel forward in the dropout?

The only time I had a masterlink break was, ironically enough, when a mechanic did the work for me. (Perhaps that was due to a bad masterlink. That mechanic in question was otherwise very, very good at his job.) Since then, I've learned that simply double-checking the link by putting pressure on the link is sufficient to test it.

With a bike where it's difficult to readjust the rear wheel (and therefore the tension on the shifting chain into the rear hub), I might say it makes more sense to use a masterlink. However, releasing (or installing) a masterlink with the chain under tension is quite difficult without a lot of practice. Practiced wrenchers can do this, but I don't quite have the knack. With an easier-to-adjust hub (like the Nexus 3), I might worry about this less and use a one-piece chain if I didn't have a spare masterlink handy when swapping out a chain.


Shimano ST-EF51 (3x7) Shifter Compatible With Shimano 200GS (2x7) Groupset?

Yes, as long as the rear derailleur is the same speed, the shifters will most likely work. And for the front shifter, adjust the limit screws so it won't shift to the 3rd gear.


You need to install a D-Fly unit. Probably this one:  EW-WU111
Being able to use the Garmin in rain and cold weather with gloves is brilliant.
However check if you have the right components: these batteries are ok: BT-DN110 / BM-DN100


I replaced my rear hub, but I'm not sure about how to attach the derailleur

Compare @mike 's photo with your hanger.   Yours does not show a bolt head.  Mike's does, and there's a specially-shaped nut on the other side.

This semirounded nut is supposed to slide up the dropout, and acts as one anchor.  Your wheel axle acts as the other, to stop the derailleur rotating around.

Good news is these generic claw hangers are cheap, so buy the whole unit and you'll be able to fit the derailleur.

Note - you may need to file the backside of the rounded nut to get chain clearance in the smallest cog.


Replacement or comparable model for my current Bottom Bracket

Pretty much any square-taper BB with the same spindle length will work. Doesn't even have to be Shimano.

1.37" x 24tpi is English, like almost all mountain bikes. (If it is Italian, it'll be immediately obvious when you try to install it - the shell diameter is a couple mm greater.)


I confess, I have not done this kind of ride. But I know a few folks who have done some long ones: Vancouver, BC to San Diego; San Francisco to the Mexican Border; the 999 Ride, and so forth.

I will tell you a few things they passed along to me.

You can get some really nasty saddle sores from this kind of riding. Make sure you have some really good shorts or bibs, and some good chamois cream. Once this kind of injury has occurred, it doesn't heal overnight. It also may help to get out of salty, sweaty kit as quickly as possible, and rinse/wash both your body and your kit. Some people are more sensitive to salt on their skin than others; if you're sensitive, take good care of your skin.
You will need to train hard for this. Since your link specifies that the ride is self-supported, you should train as you plan to ride. If you plan to carry panniers on your bike, for example, you should train with these. Fully loaded, even if you use bricks or weights or something.
Saddle time is essential, but you can use short-but-intense rides to help train. The people I know who do these long-distance rides know every steep, hilly route around here, and they ride them. Frequently. As in 250 miles per week (do the math on that, if you're averaging 10 mph because of all the climbing, that is a lot of hours on the bike).
Plan on carrying spare tubes, a spare tire, and extra spokes, especially if you have funky wheels that use proprietary spokes (Easton and Mavic come to mind). Make sure your wheels can do this kind of loaded touring.

You do not mention any particular experience with this kind of riding, so you may want to do some shorter rides-- 500 miles or whatever-- before attempting such a long, hard ride.


Bike unstable (difficult to ride without hands on bars) after changing fork after collision

Bicycle dynamics

A bicycle may only be ridden because of the peculiar steering geometry. The centre of the contact patch of the tyre is behind the point where the steering axis intersects with the ground. The distance between these points is called trail. In order to visualise it you may have a look at this figure from the bicycle dynamics article on Wikipedia:

The trail is determined by a number of constraints: head angle, wheel diameter, fork rake, fork length.

In general: If trail increases, the bike becomes more stable on straights, if trail decreases the bike becomes less stable on straights.

How will your new fork change your bike's geometry?

A longer fork with the same rake will slightly slacken the head angle, as the bike is tilted a little. This increases trail.

However, it will also reduce trail as the ratio of rake/length becomes smaller. this is not correct

If the fork has more rake, it will very directly reduce trail.

Headset

A lose or misaligned headset will cause an unstable ride. You may test your headset as follows, if you have a rigid fork, i.e. no shock absorbers.

Stand beside your bike hold the bars, and pull the forward brake levers. Your brakes should lock the forward wheel. Then rock the bike fore and aft. Do you feel any give, any instability? Push down on the handlebars and force the bike fore and aft. Turn the wheel sideways and repeat.

Anecdote: I had an unstable bikes for years. I found only out when stripping it for parts that I confused the top and bottom ball cages of the headset bearings. The lower one led to a slightly too tight fit, the upper one was slightly too large. I never could really tighten that headset properly.

The original poster mentioned in the comments that their problem was caused by a similar mistake: "[I] realized that i had my bearings upside down."

Warped frame, damaged head tube, cracked frame

If a collision was strong enough to render your fork unusable it might have damaged the bike's frame. Some points you might want to check:

are there any cracks at the head tube? Did paint flake off recently?
Are head tube and seat tube parallel. Are head, seat, top, and bottom tube in one plane?
do you hear any creaking noises when cycling?

Bad tracking

Bad dish of your rear wheel and a warped frame may cause bad tracking. That is, when going straight the rear wheel does not follow the track of the front wheel exactly. When cycling the symptom is usually not so much instability, but more a tendency of the bike to steer to one side. You might still ride hands-off, but have to nudge the bike by shifting your centre of mass to one side.

You may easily check gross tracking problems by pushing your bike through a muddy puddle. If the tracks are straight, parallel, but do not coincide you have a tracking problem. If they are not straight, or not parallel, you have to push more straight (not easy at all, bikes are not meant to go straight!).


Exceptions to 3/8x24 for coaster axle threads?

Not going to say there isn't a fringe case on an old or rare specialty brand hub, but all I've ever seen and worked on have always had 3/8 24tpi axles.  I believe some Sturmey-Archer internal gear hubs use something different, but I thought I remembered it being 13/32 or something.


After working on this for way to long, I think the problem is a combination of oversized dropouts and not enough tension on the quick-release. I discovered that if we stopped and loosened the quick-release while making sure that both axle ends were seated in the dropout that noise would stop.

I think what was happening is that the force applied on the disc would cause the wheel to shift a bit in the dropout and start rubbing. Each time I did this I tightened the quick-release a bit and after a few tries it seems to be resolved. I'm surprised by how much I had to tighten the quick-release. It is way tighter on this bike than on my bike which has rim brakes.


Will driving through heavy rain with bike on my car damage the bike?

The prevalent thought among many members of the Cycling Illuminati (trademark) is that the high vehicle speeds will drive rain into your bearings on a bike if it is mounted to the roof rack. Seems kinda plausible, but here is a GCN video about how hard it is to actually drive water past seals and into bearings with a pressure washer:

Should You Jet Wash Your Bike?

  Spoiler: It took them a long time, with the pressure washer jet focused directly on the bearing itself at point blank for 3+ minutes to finally drive some water past the seals.

Unless you are traveling down the Autobahn at top speed with your bike mounted to a roof rack you hyper-car, you will probably be just fine.  Pressure washer water velocity is about 243 mph (391 km/hr). A Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Super Sport is the world's fastest road legal production car with a top speed of 431 km/hr (268 mph).  Technically, if you had a  special rack designed for your Veyron (wouldn't want to upset the handling at 400 km/hr), you might be able to generate enough velocity for this to be a concern. Even then, it is likely only the head set bearings (or maybe bottom bracket if you have external bearing version) that will take the brunt. Even then, these bearings are oriented in a plane perpendicular to the plane of motion (which will greatly reduce the velocity of the water that actually interacts with the bearing seal face).  Plus, don't forget that the front wheel usually rides inside the car and the rear hub is left on the bike, but will be running in disturbed air, which will further reduce the force of the rain water.


Help to find the history of my 1900's Armstrong cycle :)

From http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage-bicycles-what-s-worth-appraisals-inquiries/850018-1957-armstrong-havana.html it looks like it could have been made form 1957 to 1961 or later. It looks like it has a 3 speed internal hub gearbox, probably a Sturmy Archer, as it is British made.

Appears that Armstrong was part of a larger group by this stage, and the ealier design approach may have changed a lot.

If you look under where the pedals are (the bottom bracket), there is often a serial number which may contain the year of manufacturer. Or it could be stamped elsewhere on the frame.


How do I evaluate the quality of a road bike?

To expand Stephen's answer a little, because there are a couple of really important checks to make. What you're looking for are signs that the bike is being sold because it's not worth fixing:

check the frame and fork for damage. Specifically, if the frame has crash damage it is worthless. Look for slight bends in tubes that should be straight, and for places where the paint has flaked off because a tube is bent. Look at the angle between the front fork and the head tube of the bike, and the gap between the front wheel and down tube. Bikes that have been crashed into something generally bend either the fork or the down tube just behind the head tube. From the picture that bike looks fine.
Look at the braking surfaces on the rims. If there is a wear line on the rim check that, otherwise run your hand along the rim and feel for a curve (across the short side from the brake pads wearing into it), or a break in the rim. New wheels are expensive, so if the rims are too worn it might not be worth buying the bike.
Look at the rest of the bike as Stephen suggests - does everything look ok, do the brakes feel smooth when you test them, is the chain clean, are the tyres in ok condition.
now ride the bike. Does it shift smoothly but definitely? Does it run quietly in every gear? Does it shift under power? Do the brakes work?

Most of the last points are things you can usually fix easily and cheaply. Which means that if the seller has not done them, it could be because the problems are not cheap. Rather than new gear cables and outers, you might be looking at new shift levers (which are not cheap). I would not bother looking at chain wear because even a new chain and cassette are cheap enough that it won't matter, and expecting the seller to throw out a half-worn set just so you can have new ones is wasteful.

Also, if you're not sure it is worth while taking it to a bike shop for a check-over and quote for repairs. Offer to pay them a token amount because you're not getting the work done you just want to know what they think. If the seller doesn't want you to do this before you buy, do it immediately after. That way you can (probably) still go back for a refund.

Please don't be scared off by the list of things that might be horribly wrong. Most of us have bought second hand bikes many times and ridden them a lot. It's that 1% chance that you're getting a lemon that we're talking about, not some mythical horde of dodgy dealers.


The best bike for you is one that you want to ride.
Your bike needs to be comfortable TO YOU which means the correct size.
It needs to suit your needs, whether that be commuting, training, shopping, adventure, offroad.
It needs to be affordable without breaking your budget, and leave enough spare cash for those extras like helmet, a bag, tools, spares, gloves, or whatever else you need.

The reason that a used bike is often suggested is because they are generally a lot cheaper than a new bike, plus in these C19 days the supply chain can be lumpy.
A used bike can let you ride the bike you think you want, and then you can buy another used bike of a style that grows on you later.  It is not uncommon for riders to want a squishy MTB to ride to work/school, and then realise how slow they are compared to something more road-oriented   (for example)
On the other hand, a new bike comes with some sort of warranty depending on your location.   Some people cannot stand the idea of riding a bike that someone else has ridden, so new is their only option.   That's okay too, but it costs more.
A bike that is bought with the best intentions but only gets a few rides before being stored, that's a ROPA (ridden once, put away) or a "Garage Princess"   If you have one of those in your extended family, then see if you can borrow it for a try.


Should I adjust rear derailleur as my chain seems too close to each other

The chain is too long. Presumably you did not cut it down to size it when you installed it.

All chains are sold with excess length and must be sized to the bike. The length required depends on the length of the chainstays and size of the largest chainring and sprocket.

The easiest way to size the chain is making it the same length as the old chain. You can also find the required length by putting the chain on the bike on the largest chainring and sprocket (and not through the derailleur). This Park Tool video shows how it's done.

Update after getting info that the new chain was cut to length of old chain:

Don't just shorten the chain and see what happens, you need to follow the sizing procedure to make sure the length is right. If the chain is too short for the large chainring/largest sprocket bad things will happen if you attempt to change into that combination.

Before you do that, check that your derailleur has enough total capacity for the chainrings and sprockets you have. Your derailleur looks like a short cage version and may not be able to take up the chain slack necessary.

Total capacity needed is:

(difference in teeth between largest/smallest chainrings) + (difference in teeth between largest/smallest sprockets)

If you have a Shimano derailleur you can look up the specs here. Note there is a link to archive spec docs if you have an older model. If you don't know what model you have or can't figure it out post a pic of the derailleur in your question, and tell us road or MTB and how many cassette sprockets you have and someone will likely identify it for you.


What is a good gents' hat to wear while cycling in formalwear?

My instant reaction to this is the Deerstalker. Paired with an appropriate cravat this should be able to carry you through the majority of social functions. Tweed being an obvious material for the outdoors.

Depending on how formal you need to go, you might consider a collapsible top hat, which can be changed into on arrival.

Finally, if feeling quirky, a Coke hat would be a viable alternative with the benefit of providing a conversation piece.


Shimano Hydraulic disc brakes- Lever compatibility

According to these pages:

http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M446
http://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec/2.4/MTB/Brake%20%28Disc%20Brake%29?q=M395

These brakes both use the same hose kit, SM-BH59-JK-SS.

In document EV-BR-M446-F, the connecting bolt unit has part number Y8H298010.
In document EV-BR-M395-F, the connecting bolt unit has part number Y8H598010.
For both, the Olive & Connecter Insert (barb) has part number Y8H298020.

I can find no information on the difference between Y8H298010 and Y8H598010, which may be superficial. If you have the fluid and funnel necessary to bleed the brakes, I suggest you unscrew the two hoses and measure the threaded fitting.


What size are the screws used for water bottle mounts etc?

Strictly speaking the answer should be M4, M5 or M6.  This specifies the threading as well* (M4x0.7, M5x0.8 and M6x1 is implied, where the thread is given in mm/turn).  The hex key for turning them will also have a size in mm, always smaller than the diameter, by how much depends on the head shape.

I would say M5 are the most common, based on a very small sample size.

*There are technically fine and extra fine metric threads, but you won't find them on a bike or in a hardware store.


Can any one tell me what make and model this bike is? Stolen today

It's a Specialized Sirrus circa 2012-2014. Here's a video from 2013 that shows the bike in detail. Without part photos it's hard to tell the exact trim level, I suppose it's either a "Comp" or "Sport".
Notable features are:

Flat bars on a road bike.
Rim brakes.
Aluminium alloy frame.
Distinct paint scheme, especially on the fork.
Frame shape, tubes, junctions.

How I found it:
Google Image for "flat bar road bike rim brakes", look for bikes with matching features. "Sirrus" looked similar, so I searched for "Specialized Sirrus alloy rim brakes" next and look for one with same top tube and fork paint job, that's how I found the video. To narrow down the year and trim, I've looked for "Specialized Sirrus alloy 2011" and other years.
Good luck finding the bike, Patrick!


According to Bikes At Work:

  Our experience has been that most people can comfortably pull 300 lbs (137 kg) with a typical mountain bike and cargo trailer or cargo trike. How quickly a person can move load of that weight will depend on his or her physical condition. Someone in reasonable physical condition can generally pull a 300 lb load at 10 mph (16 km/hr) on level ground if there's no wind. A person exerting the same effort could pull a load of 600 lb. (275 kg) at a speed of about 8 mph (11-13 km/hr), and a 1000 lb load at about 6 mph.

At the page linked above there is a calculator:

  to estimate how much weight a typical healthy individual could transport on a warm day in still air using a bike and trailer or cargo trike. Things like wind speed, equipment condition, and personal health can have an enormous impact on results, so use this only for rough approximations.

Bikes At Work is talking about a bike pulling a cargo trailer but the information can be extended to other pedaled vehicles.

Once you get a weight moving on the flat you can move a lot of weight - given the right gearing given a reasonable level of fitness. Hills are a whole other world.


Effective breathing for efficient cycling

There are going to be dozens of opinions on this, so keep in mind that I'm only talking in generalities:

Don't get too caught up on what type of terrain you're on, flat, uphill, downhill, etc. As long as you're exerting yourself on your bike, try to take deep, steady breaths, breaths that seem to go clear to your stomach. Try to focus on keeping your breath steady whenever you can. Try a few different rhythms and see if you can pick one that comes most naturally. Even better, see if you can find a riding buddy so that you two can exchange notes and learn from each other.

There are people who make their career out of training people how to breathe, so, this is just to get you started.


Hydraulic brake bleed fail - try again or replace?

I'm only going to answer an aspect of your question; you can apply it to your brake how you wish.
Firstly, Certain Tekro models are fiddly to bleed but also feel like they need bleeding if the pads are worn down, so if you haven't put new pads in, I suggest you do that first.
When something like this comes into a commercial workshop and this amount of time has effectively been wasted, there's a strong argument for replacing the brake, giving better value for the customer and putting the mechanic's time back into another job that pays the bills.
When you are in another scenario where conservation of materials is important and you are time rich, you can play with bleeding this as long as you like, though you may already have learned all you need to know.
Meanwhile, SRAM Level, Shimano's entry-level hydro brakes and even new Tektro brakes are easy to set up, easier to bleed and don't cost very much, especially when compared to a workshop hourly rate.


Weight and durability are indeed factors, but it's also about the performance of components. The "high level" bikes are for a "high level" of performance. They're usually designed with competition in mind.

The shifting has to be perfect, the brakes need just the right amount of power, the suspension has all kinds of adjustments, tires specific to the terrain on that day are used, etc.

Of course, Average Wealthy Joe will buy one of those bikes and brag about it, but hey, be happy he's financing your favourite bike companies. ;)


What would be the best gearing for mountain climbing?

What parts are you willing to replace?

You can't get smaller than 34 in the front w/o replacing the crankset with some kind of MTB crank. You'll likely need to replace your front derailleur as well, and there are issues with indexed shifting that you'll need to figure out.

You can't get larger than at most 32t in the back w/o replacing the rear derailleur with an MTB version. There are also indexing issues between road/MTB derailleurs. If you get a road extended cage or triple rear derailluer, you can probably make an MTB 11-32 cluster work with your current shifters.

However, in the long run it's probably cheaper just to get a triple chainring on the front.
You'll have a much easier time getting the gears that work for you.


Worn out square taper bottom bracket spindle?

The spindle looks a little rusty. That may be what is causing the the creak. Try completely removing the rust with a wire brush and thoroughly cleaning the crank and spindle before re-installing.

Be aware that the bolt can loosen slightly in use as the crank 'climbs' onto the square taper. See https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html


Better 8 speed shifters than exist now are pretty unlikely to start existing in the future, so any recommendation is unlikely to become obsolete.
For robustness, the hot setup is SL-BS64 shifters (the ones you already have if they're Shimano) on Paul Thumbie mounts. Loctite the heck out of the mounting screw for the shifter part. They perform great too, provided you enjoy using thumbshifters.
If you really want trigger shifters, another avenue that would produce good results is any higher end flatbar road set like the one you mention, or any left friction thumbshifter plus the best 8-speed Shimano right shifter you can find in good condition. XT, LX, and Deore have all existed, and most will be better than your Claris. (I will say that the tactile feel of the Claris set you have is of course mediocre, but they work fine, so any serious performance problems you're having with it make me suspect other problems, i.e. cable/housing friction or a slopped out RD.)
Any pre-11-speed Shimano flatbar road left shifter should work in conjunction with any 8-speed double Shimano road front derailleur. There are other things that could be causing your bad front shifting, ie weird chainring spacing or bad FD positioning. What won't work well is putting a mountain shifter on a Shimano road FD. They pull more cable. One can usually make it work by starting with a bunch of cable slack, but it's not pretty.


I have 27 inch wheels and need new inner tubes what size can I use

The size of the tube is usually written on the box.  Tubes stretch a bit so they fit a variety of sizes.  For a 27 x 1 1/4 tire you would need one that says 700x32 which is the equivalent new size of tube, although both the old system and new system are usually written on the packaging. This size is very common and you should be able to purchase the tube at any cycling store, or sports store that sells bikes.  If you don't have any in your area, you should also  be able to purchase tubes at any department store that sells bikes.

Also make sure that you get the right valve type.  Schrader is the same valve that is used on cars, while Presta is the only found on bikes.  An older 27 inch wheel will almost certainly use a Schrader valve.  You should be able to see the difference quite easily.  Also, there are different lengths of valves, although those are usually only found on Presta Valves.  This can be a concern if you have deep rims.  I try not to use valves that are too long for my rims because its sometimes difficult to attach the pump in these circumstances.  Although having too short of a valves can make it impossible to attach a pump.

Here is a picture of a box showing the sizes of tires that the tube is designed for.  This tube will fit tires from size 700x25 to 700x32, or in the case where you have older wheels like yourself, will fit 27 x 1.00 to 27 x 1 1/4.  It has a presta Valve.


Bottom bracket replacement advice needed for BBright BB386EVO

This frame either uses a BB386 Evo "standard" or a Pressfit 30 "standard". You can determine which by measuring the width of the frame at the BB shell. If 86.5mm it is BB386Evo. If 68mm it is Pressfit 30.

If it is a Pressfit 30(68mm shell) this BB is a direct fit for the Shimano crank without extra spacers. this is the PF30 version of the BB30 bottom bracket that @bikebum listed in his answer.

However, based on the markings on your existing crank, I believe it is BB386 Evo.

  To add to the confusion, the crank actually says 'For BBright BB386EVO'

That means that it is a pressfit(non-threaded)frame, with a shell width of 86.5mm, and an outside bearing race(cup)diameter of 46mm. The inside diameter of that bearing cup is 30mm.

MegaExo is a brand of bottom bracket made by FSA, not a measurement standard.

Any Pressfit 30 BB kit, like the ones from SRAM or Wheels Manufacturing will fit the frame. Nothing else will fit.

To fit a crankset, you either need a BB386 Evo crank, as you have now (also known as the "long BB30"), or you need a spacer kit to adjust he diameter of your frame's required standard of 30mm to the crank you want to use.

Since the Shimano crankset is designed for an 86.5mm frame, you only need to adjust the ID of the bearing cup to 24mm Shimano standard.

A Wheels Manufacturing 24mm to BB386 Evo adaptor like this one does the trick.

FSA makes a good BB reference poster here.


Can I upgrade to SRAM GX Eagle from Shimano Acera 9 Speed?

To clarify things, with a SRAM GX Eagle groupset that consits of a crankset, GXP bottom bracket, chain, gear shifter, cassette and rear derailleur the only part that might cause incompatibility issues is the cassette because the XG-1275 11-50 cassette requires an XD freehub driver body (XD body has extra space for 10 and 9 cogs, while Shimano-style body does not).

Still, you've got several options to choose from:

Get a more expensive XG-1295 or XG-1299 11-50 cassette (Shimano freehub body compatible).
Get a cheaper Sunrace CSMZ90 11-50 casstte  (Shimano freehub body compatible).
If your rear hub has compatible XD freehub body for sale, get it and a regular XG-1275 10-50 cassette.
If there's no XD freehub body available for your rear hub, you can buy an XD rear hub and relace the rear wheel. Or buy a complete, compatible wheel.


Removing the crank arm (square taper) on a Chinese (PooBoo D 577) stationary bicycle

It sounds to me as though the crank arm may well be threaded to the old french standard of 23mm as used on old Stronglight and TA chainsets, rather than the standard 22mm which is used by Shimano, Campagnolo, etc.
There are still crank pullers available for 23mm chainsets, I have one from VAR, since I have a couple of old TA Cyclotouriste chainsets on a couple of old bikes. The VAR puller is available from this location.
(I make no recommendation, as I have not used this supplier, other suppliers are available, Your experience may vary, etc...)


How can I keep my feet from falling asleep while riding?

I've been suffering from this recently now that I've upped my mileage to 40+ mile rides. My solution was 3 fold:

1) Starting the ride with my shoes quite loose. I have Shimano road / race shoes with 2 velcro straps and a ratchet strap across the top of my foot. I found that I was ratcheting the shoes down too tight.

2) Cleat position. Try experimenting with your cleats in different positions, I've found having my cleats at the rear most setting, allows some of the pressure to be taken off the balls of my feet.

3) Insoles - I've bought some decent insoles as I have quite a high instep, which means all the pressure gets put through the ball of my foot.


I believe all drop-bar road bike brake levers designed for caliper brakes use the same cable pull ratio, so yes you can fit Ultegra calipers.

Personal opinion follows ...

I'm not a fan of installing individual components of a level many steps up from the rest of the components on a bike. You may not see the full performance benefits of the high-level calipers because the lower level Microshift levers will be the limiting factor.

The Felt F95 has no-brand calipers I believe (at least the 2017 does, your link to Wiggle does not work), so even Claris or Sora level are going to be better. You may as well save a little money.


Identify this old folding bike that I got from the tip - an early Dahon?

It does seem to be an early model Dahon OEM or Dahonesque bicycle -- i.e., made in Dahon's factory or cloned from Dahon blueprints, but then sold under another label.

The way to identify an early Dahon is that their bottom bracket is above the downtube folding hinge. This particular model is missing the steering brace that helped make the early models less rickety.

Early Dahon bikes aren't particularly rare or valuable at all - especially an off-brand like yours. It's not as if you had a 0-series Brompton. With your bike, you can tell from the one-piece crank that it was designed as an inexpensive commuter bicycle - what we tend to call on this forum, a Bicycle Shaped Object. Later Dahons with their oversized aluminium tubing are much better than these early models.

Just remember that just because something is one-of-a-kind or rare doesn't mean that it's valuable.


About 20-30 people bike to where I work. What equipment/supplies should we have on hand?

I'd maybe ask the cyclists themselves - maybe ask them to bring useful spares and have an amount of petty cash on hand to reimburse them. They might be able to bring in old lights (let's face it many of us always leap to the newest kit and have drawers full of old kit lying around).

The basic tool set should include tyre levers, an adjustable spanner/wrench or combination bike tool, Allan keys (hex wrench).

If you're prepared to keep things topped up with consumables as well, that would be great - but you'll be forever replacing the inner tubes, but while you might need a mix of sizes, starting just with a few 700x25c would work.

I'm not convinced about spare helmets - apart from the whole obligated helmet wearing debate - you might be opening yourself up for liability if someone got badly injured in an accident while wearing one of the loaner items.

Many lights these days are rechargeable themselves, either through USB or directly to mains, so making sure that there are charging sockets and a charged USB hub could be good, maybe a battery charger would encourage people to switch to that style of battery.


Of course no, it doesn't do any harm that the helmet gets wet in WATER.

It is made of various plastics, which per se are insensitive to water, and also it is supposed to be worn even though the cyclist is cycling under rain or snow.

Also, your sweat is basically water and some salts. If water was dangerous to helmets you should not sweat when wearing them :)

Just avoid that it gets wet by organic solvents (acetone, benzene, etc.), as they might attack some of the plastic and drastically alter their mechanical properties, leaving to your head the same protection offered by a shopper. The advice to not paint or put stickers on the helmet comes from the above point, as some paints or glue can contain non suitable solvents.


Most likely a gasket/o-ring blew or some debris is caught up in the internals. I wouldn't use WD-40 as the light kerosene can deteriorate o-rings or some plastics. I'd try with some canned air / compressed air.

If your pump head is well designed, you can take it apart and rub some silicone lube on the o-rings and mating surfaces to help restore the seal. If you don't have silicone lube, look for a grease that is o-ring/plastic friendly (WD-40 and vaseline are NOT o-ring friendly). In the image below (of a portable not stand pump) the o-rings and gaskets/plunger are the two circled objects in the very middle.

Note 1:You have to BE VERY CAREFUL of both the order and direction of parts in a pump head, flip them around and the pump head won't work or will work poorly. Taking photos of the pump head while you take it apart is highly recommended.

Note 2: Your pump will be more complex because it's dual-head and designed for one side (presta/schrader) to be automatically closed when the other side (schrader/presta) is in use.

If this doesn't work, it might be easier / faster / cheaper to just replace it. Do a search on amazon (or your LBS) for "replacement bicycle pump head" or "bicycle pump head upgrade."


Non-quick release through axle - a few questions

It's a Maxle Stealth. They are a little cheaper and are also a weight savings thing. They're not super common but there's nothing wrong with them. They've also not been around very long, just less than two years as of now.

As I understand it, on the Rockshox forks that Maxles are more typically found on, the Maxle Stealth versions are fully cross-compatible in all cases with the quick-release Maxle Lites and Maxle Ultimates that share the same dimensions. So for example, the axle you have mainly exists in the world to be retrofitted unto RS Bluto forks with the Maxle Lite that has all the same dimensions. So it's probably physically compatible, but you should probably double check with the manufacturer before doing it that there are no hidden gotchas.

(Edit: One such gotcha could have to do with any pronounced recesses or grooves on the fork that the shoulder of the Maxle Stealth sinks into that a lever might interfere with. Just hypothesizing.)

For the torque, it's really a pretty wide range they give you, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. On the tight but not strenuous or aggressive end of what you could do with a standard allen wrench is a good way to think about it.


How much does nipple choice affect wheel weight/stiffness?

Alloy would save a tiny amount of weight. I wouldn't expect it to make any difference to wheel stiffness, so long as you lubricate the threads when building it (alloy nipples are stiffer to turn otherwise, so it's harder to get the tension right). Brass is stronger, but you shouldn't have to rely on that to get a stiff wheel.

But long term, alloy is more likely to seize.

http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#nipples

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/alloy-spoke-nipples-or-brass


Is a folding bike's chain more likely to slip?

Its largely comes down to quality of the bike, which comes down to price, and your size and strength. A well build bike with quality gear set should not do this. A cheap bike, especially a folder, with entry level gears its not entirely unexpected. If you big or strong (or both) the problem is worse

The problem comes from frame flex. The gear spacing on the rear cluster is about 5mm, and the chain is around 8mm wide, the amount of movement needed to initiate a gear change onto the next cog can be as small as a millimeter. When a rider cranks hard on a flexible frame, its easy to get enough flex to cause a gear shift to initiate.

This is flexing not normally considered a big problem - high cadence (pedal revolutions) with lower force is much better riding style than 'mushing' at low cadence. Flexing is not desirable for a number of reasons, so experienced cyclists tend to ride bikes with stiffer frames.

Folding bikes are always going to be compromise as its hard to make a folder stiff.  It may be that a folder is not for you and you would be better with a non folding bike, or you may decide to change your riding style to suit the limits of the bike.

Ultimately any modern derailleur type bike is a finely tuned, precision machine. While they are reliable and can last a very long time, they are far from being indestructible. When poorly ridden they are almost certainly going to fall apart.


Changing the battery has very likely reset the memory of the bike computer, so it needs to know what units you want to use, and what tyre size you have on the bike etc. You can even tell it what your old mileage total was so it starts counting from where you left off. I guess that’s how the world managed before Strava ;)

If you still have the manual you should refer to the setup process in it.

If you don’t have the manual, there are copies online you should be able to search for, as well as videos showing how it can be done. Whilst the video I watched was informative and matched the manual for a bc500, it sounds a bit different to what you are seeing, but the process will be very similar.

This video might be helpful:


Many hubs with similar designs have such a spacer in the "between 2 and 7" position as per the diagram. Were the hub intact you could test whether it's supposed to be there or elsewhere, because if it was supposed to be between the drive side main hub bearing and the inboard freehub body bearing and it wasn't installed there, typically the freehub body would bind up and the seal wouldn't engage right. And if the spacer was there when it shouldn't be, the pawls wouldn't fully engage the drive ring (4), which would be easily noticeable during assembly and would also be evident as a 2mm unworn section on them, which it isn't in the images. I highly doubt the spacer was in the wrong place, and that piece of the puzzle can be resolved by calling or emailing the manufacturer.
To me it's hard to tell what went wrong first in this scenario. The evenly spaced scoring on the freehub body around the flange that holds the pawls presumably came from it being rammed against the teeth of the drive ring under load. That would seem to suggest play or flex in the freehub body, which could have happened after the bearing failed, or perhaps something else caused both it and the bearing failure.
It appears this design uses slip-fit endcaps and a main hub axle with no threads anywhere. In such a design, the thru-axle is what's holding all of the hub parts together. If the thru-axle were ridden loose, I could imagine failure like this resulting.
From your picture there's at least one tubular spacer inside the freehub body joining the two bearings. That and the two bearings being the only things inside there would be typical, but sometimes freehub body internals have other parts inside like snaprings to locate the bearings. If any of those parts were out of place when the new bearing was pressed in, the bearing might have wound up where it should't, causing the scoring you see on the end of the freehub body as well as potentially other problems. But that likely would have all been evident as excess friction in the freehub body when you started riding it again after the bearing change.
I think a huge clue in all of this is that you needed a new freehub body bearing so early in the life of the wheel. That is weird. Freehub body bearings have easy lives because they only receive load when they're not rotating. It's more often the case for them to still be going perfectly strong when everything else on the wheel is finished. I'm curious if there's some kind of tolerance problem in the bearing bore(s) of the freehub body, or perhaps the axle. That could explain both premature wear of the first bearing and failure of this one.


It is known some people moving to 29er's have issues with tow overlap, especially on small frames. I know when I am not using cleats, I sometimes get a bit of toe strike, less so now, but initially it was happening regularly.

Best not to try and 'fix' the overlap - the bike geometry will be negatively affected unless extreme care is taken. Its not a major issue, you get used to having to keep your feet back (where they should be for efficient riding) Clip less pedals solve the problem completely.

There is a reason the industry quickly moved to 650b. One take is one size does not fit all as the failed 29 experiment shows. The other (cynical one) is the industry needed a reason to sell more bikes, so they came up with 29er as the new "must have" for a couple of seasons then introduced the 650b and said "this one is much better again", knowing all along 650b was a better "one size for all" size.....


How tight should my front quick release lever be?

You are correct that those levers are designed to be opened with your bare hands. Unfortunately it's usually easier to push the lever closed than to pull it open, so it's easy to over-tighten it.

Start with the lever open, and facing back as shown in the picture
Wind the nut on the other side back 2 or 3 turns.
Close the lever. It should be very easy, and the wheel is not properly attached.
Wind the nut in until it is tight (finger tight, do not use tools!)
Open the lever.
Wind the nut in half a turn.
Close the lever. It should be firm, but not impossible.

If it's too hard to close, back the nut off a small amount and try again.
It it's too loose, tighten the nut up a small amount and try again.

Unless you're unusually weak, not being able to open it means it is on too tight. Even if you are somewhat weak, unless you have disk brakes "as tight as you can" should be ok.

Note that if you have disk brakes it is much more important that the quick release be tight. When you use disk brakes the reaction force is pushing the wheel down, out of the fork. It is better to have the QR slightly too tight than slightly too loose with disk brakes.

Also, the QR lever should always point backwards as shown. That makes it less likely to catch on anything and be pulled open (or throw you off the bike).

The link broke, so here's key bits of the article via archive.org and another article that summarises the problem

Disk brakes and quick releases - what you need to know

(Updated Jan 2006 with the first out-of court settlement)

Yes, that's right - a UK cyclist has recently settled out of court with a fork manufacturer, in what is I believe the first successful case of its kind. There are a few more details in this thread here - the rider himself is hoping to avoid the limelight but thought that others might like to know.

The purpose of these web pages is to explain the danger of using a disk brake with a standard quick-release fastening for a front wheel on a bicycle.

This page you are now reading covers the main description for failure, and evidence in support. What happens and why..
This page quotes several experts who have commented on the matter. If you aren't prepared to take my word for it (and why should you?) then have a look at what the independent experts say.
Here is the press coverage.
The CPSC letter gets a page of its own
I've had a problem with my disk brake + QR. What should I do about it?
A chronological look at how this all happened, which will also be kept reasonably up-to-date with the latest news and current status of the problem.
The manufacturers have hardly responded so far, but I'll put up anything more they say.
One year on, and the manufacturers deny they have ever heard of this problem.
Finally, I got hold of a copy of Cannondale's tests. Read and weep (or laugh).
At last, an admission from Marzocchi.

[NB for 'quick release' please read 'conventional axle in slotted dropouts'. A simple nutted axle may be slightly better than a QR in theory, as it can provide a higher clamping force. However I'm not convinced that in practice it is safer, as it will be less obvious if it loosens or slips, and in fact the greater bolt diameter will generate a stronger unscrewing force. The safe alternative is a properly clamped axle combined with fork ends with a blocked exit slot, as shown in the pictures below.]

A brief `Executive Summary'

There are two main aspects to the failure.
The disk brake generates a massive force largely downwards in the direction of the open fork ends. The friction of a quick release skewer is often not sufficient to stop the axle slipping down in the dropout slot.  This is explained in more detail here,
The QR is initially restrained by the retention lip on the fork (assuming it is present), however over time the slipping of the quick release leads it to unscrew, which is described here. Once it has unscrewed enough, it can be forced over the retention lip and the rider will crash.
Below the analysis, we have a section of  anecdotal and experimental support, and I've put the small number of  manufacturers' comments on a separate page.

....


Will 180mm rotors fit my Carrera Vengeance Ltd. Edition bike?

As long as the kit includes the correct caliper mount adaptors, it will be fine. You can buy them separately if you need to.
It looks like bike has post mount fork and IS on the frame so it's likely you will need to buy at least one of those in addition to the kit.


The typical way of using a Shimano IGH with a dropbar is using a device called a Hubbub. It is essentially a little handlebar that plugs into the right hand side of the drops and gives you a mount for the usual twist shifter which comes with the IGH (This is what I would recommend). Another alternative is mounting it on the center of the bar with an extender like the Minoura space grip (though this is more annoying and less robust than the former option). JTek also makes a bar end shifter designed for drop bars as well. I have seen Walmart bikes with gripshifts in the center of dropbars, but these have bars that have essentially been cut in half, gripshifts installed and then bolted together according to the internet (google GMC Denali bicycle).

If you can look up (or measure) the cable pull for your IGH system, depending on if its roughly equally spaced, you may be able to rig a pulley system like a Problem Solvers Travel Agent to change the cable pull to work with the brifters okay. I think I read somewhere this works with some nexus hubs, but I could just be imagining. EDIT: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hiawathacyclery/2348490318/in/set-72157604007257815/ indicates some bike shop has managed to use a travel agent to get it to work: "That silver gizmo on the downtube shifter boss is a travel agent, intended to make short-pull brake levers work with v-brakes (aka linear pull). Coincidentally, it also amplifies the cable pull the correct amount to make an 8sp bar-end shifter index for the Alfine/Nexus 8sp hub. It works surprisingly well in the friction mode, too. ... It's as simple as that. However, I make no promises that this is a safe configuration or that it won't shorten the hub's lifespan. There is a small hesitation between gears 4 and 5, but it clicks into gear when the pressure on the pedal is relaxed slightly. Of course, anybody who's ever ridden an old 3-speed knows this already.... I should add that I believe the Alfine is a better choice than the Nexus. The reason is that the Alfine is more or less silent - any noise you hear is probably the result of a misplaced shift. ... Oh yeah, and we used an extra inline barrel adjuster on the outbound end of the travel agent. This is where the cable tension is adjusted to tune the shifting. The travel agent's barrel adjuster really just tensions the cable between the travel agent and the shifter." It looks like the travel agent mount is a custom one from Hiawatha Cyclery though (but shouldn't be hard to rig one up yourself).

Another thread on bicycles.SE (Is it possible to use road-style brifters with an internal gear hub?) says the Versa VRS-8 shifters are designed for this application, but I've never heard of them before. They also mention Sturmey-Archer hubs have brifters.

Switching to a derailleur and getting the wheel rebuilt may be possible, but you still have the expense of a derailleur, wheel rebuild, and possibly the purchase of an adaptor claw.

Also, not directly related: Installing drops changes the riding geometry of a bike - make sure you can still ride the bike with drops before buying something like a Hubbub since they're not cheap (though it shouldn't be hard to rig up something like that on your own).

Also, it seems your bike is fitted with V-brakes which have different cable pull than other brakes. You need to either get the Tektro RL540 (or equivalent) brake levers and use bar end / hubbub/ some other shifter mount, or use travel agents with STI shifters if you're able to get them to work.

Finally, some companies like Origin8 make bar ends with drops (http://www.origin-8.com/product-description/?prod_model_uid=1596). Not ideal, but might be something to look at.


How do Traffic Lights Notice Bicyclists?

There are two basic types of intersection detection systems out there:

Induction loop coils:
These are basically a metal loop or figure 8 embedded in the pavement, and will detect anything that conducts electricity. Much like a metal detector, such as you might walk through at the airport. Sometimes you can see lines carved into the road surface. Getting your wheel over the lines will help you get picked up.
Cameras: You may be able to see the cameras, even.  These are generally black and white cameras that are programmed with areas they pick up for each lane and do some sampling things and if the samples look different than the "baseline", that's a detection. If your headlamp is helping, this is the type of detector in use at that intersection. A bright light will definitely be picked up at night. Light clothes that contrast with the color of the road surface will also help.


tl;dr: The 38-40mm Little Big Ben tires will fit your bicycle but (maybe) not your fenders

The webpage for http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/space_horse clearly indicates that your thickest tire is a 700c x 42.

Since the Little Big Bens are 38-40mm in width, you should be ok with them on the Space Horse ... except ....

.... the only Velo-Orange fenders that would fit unmodified in the 42mm forks would be the 37mm ones -- which have a maximum tire width of 27mm. So that'd be a nope. With modification (i.e., a dremel tool) you could get the Velo-Orange 45mm ones to fit in the 42mm foks, but those have a maximum tire width of 35mm, so still nope. Also with some judicious bending, cutting, hammering, duct-taping, and jubilee clipping, I think you could still get it to fit, but it may look janky to you.

Note that @Criggie has pointed out that the V-O requirement that the tire be -10 mm smaller than the fender may be conservative -- allowing for mud clearance which might not be an issue with the tires you want. But you won't know unless you put it all together.

If you're not into bodging fenders, then you would need to get the 37mm fenders and find wheels with a maximum width of 27mm (to be on the safe side). The safest thing is to wait until you have the bike in hand and can measure the actual fork distances and see if the 45mm fenders will fit -- but even then, your tires might not, so you still have to look for thinner tires -- or use different fenders.


The FSA Warranty is 2 years on cranksets.

I would still contact them to see what they recommend.They might be able to repair, recommend a company who can repair or offer you a lower-cost replacement. You didn't say which crank arm it is but they may also be able to provide a replacement for just that crank arm.

I would also stop using the crank for now for two different reasons:

In the event this is repairable, you don't want to make the current damage any worse as it could tip things past the point to where it is no longer fixable.
You don't want to risk catastrophic failure of the crank where the threaded insert breaks completely out of the crank taking the pedal and your control of the bike with it.


Rusty chain and back cassette – Replace or repair?

As long as the crank arms, chain and freewheel turn freely and all as one. Without clunk's, slipping or sticking at any point there should be no need to replace any of it. The surface rust will not prevent it being fit for purpose and should wear off with use and some decent lubricant. You could always try a wire brush to remove surface rust without having to disassemble any parts and also just for reference if you do decide to change your "cassette" be advised that is a freewheel and not a cassette they are not interchangeable so avoid disappointment ordering a part that will not fit. The part you would need to order if you decide to is a 7speed freewheel not a 7speed cassette.


Is there a lightweight electric assist braking system that can be applied to a bicycle trailer?

People have come up with their own inertial/surge trailer hacks. Google is your friend here. On stackexchange is a related question: How to build surge brakes on bike trailer?

As far as I know, there's no commercial solutions. Part of this is the technical difficulty of braking both trailer wheels equally and in proportion to the main braking force. It's conceivably easier with BoB style single wheel trailers but most trailers are dual wheel with single-sided hubs, which adds further complexity.

Then there's the liability issue. Any time you add new technology, the manufacturer has to assume some liability on its use. Trailers in the USA are most often used to carry children and no manufacturer is going to go near there on that at a price point consumers are going to swallow (i.e., the only way you could upsell a $200 feature like trailer braking is to say it's safer but your lawyers won't allow you to say that).

The DIY solutions are quite ingenious so I'd suggest exploring them. The increase in the number of tandem hubs with disk brake mounts is making it easier to do this. See related question above.

As far as electronic solutions using ehubs. This is non-trivial. Cars can do this as the motor controller can read both steering input, brake input, wheel ABS sensors, and gyro sensors to apply the right amount of deceleration torque to each wheel for maximum stability. Doing this on an ebike or e-trailer isn't impossible but hard to do reliably at a reasonable price point. If using an ebike, note each hub motor alone is $150+.

Many of us who pull trailers use ebikes and as long as your ebike motor is sufficient and you have good brakes on the ebike, and you follow reasonable speed and load precautions, motors and brakes on the trailer seem like just another point of failure (and place we have to recharge).


Broken fork and front wheel after head-on crash, need to replace headset?

I am sorry to hear about the crash!

You do want to get a bike store to inspect the bike. Headsets can take damage in crashes like that, but we don't know for sure. If the headset was damaged, how it happened was probably that the fork steerer banged against one of the races and dented it, which would cause your fork to feel loose in the headset and not turn smoothly. Ride like that, and over time, I think you have a good chance of damaging the head tube.

As @nollak and @DanielRHicks mentioned, you also want to make sure that your frame is in alignment (and this is not something most people have the tools for at home). Guys, your comments could have been answers.


10 speed rear derailleur only shifting 7 gears....losing my mind

I believe your problem is a mismatch of cable pull ratios between the shifter and derailleur.

The rear derailleur actuation ratio is how far the shifter cage moves for a unit length of cable pulled. The amount of cable a shifter needs to pull for each gear shift is determined by the actuation ratio and the spacing between the cassette sprockets.

Generally, Shimano road 10 speeds and below and mountain 9 speeds and below used the same pull ratio (the exception being Tiagra 4700). Road 11 speed  and MTB 10 and 11 speeds require more cable to be pulled for each gear shift as it makes it easier to get the accuracy required out of the shifters to index more closely spaced sprockets.

Because you have a 10 speed MTB shifter it's mismatched with the road derailleur. Presumably you got the MTB derailleur because you wanted to be able to run a wide range cassette, but you are using a road cassette anyway. Simplest fix is to get any Shimano 10 or MTB 9 speed derailleur (but not Tiagra 4700) that can accommodate the largest cassette sprocket you want to run.


I know what that is. It’s the pivot for the brake lever, and Shimano does not sell extras. Your options are:

Buy a new brake system or lever (depending on which is cheaper. Used is fine as well. All Shimano MTB brakes are inter-compatible.)
Go to your LBS and ask if they have a lever you can cannibalize. A friend of mine broke the exact same part and our LBS happened to have a spare lever they keep around for spare parts.

Be careful while fiddling with that 2mm hex fitting. It’s easy to strip out, and fixing that will definitely mean a new lever.


Converting calorie count on standard gym stationary bike to power data

Calculating calorie burn from power output is pretty straightforward, but the reverse simply cannot be done. The same number of calories can be burned by doing an hour of 30 second efforts and 2 minute recoveries compared to doing a one hour steady endurance effort. Beyond that,  you also have the inaccuracy of the gym bike measurement which will be the biggest factor to consider. Any bike which does not display power in watts to you also doesn't measure it in a way that is accurate enough to be useful in the slightest when comparing to data from any other unit.

In short, you can use the calorie number to compare between workouts on the same gym bike to know that you're improving if you burn more calories in the same time at the same level of exertion, but nothing more than that.


Campanolo record power meter crank with veloce crankset

No.

The Veloce crankset (assuming it's a 2011+ version) uses Campy's Power Torque system to attach the left crank arm.

The Centaur crankarm offered by Stages uses Campy's Ultra Torque design, as do all of the Campy crankarms Stages offers.

They are completely different.


in my experience. BB height affects stability of your ride, but mostly while standing on the pedals since you weight is then directly on the BB. but raising it 7mm may or may not make a difference in your ride. however, raising it ABOVE the axle height will make a dramatic difference in stability. BMX bikes are incredibly nimble (aka unstable) due to them having a BB higher than their axles, where as 29'ers will feel solid as a rock since they have a dropped BB height relative to their axles. it has to do with torque applied while standing. (i know wheel size also plays a factor but we're assuming spherical cow here). so considering that the DROP or RISE from the axle height affects the ride more than height, a 13in BB height on a BMX will feel much different than a 13 in BB height on a 29'er.

my track bike has a BB height equal to its axles, and its nimble and fun to ride, where as my road bike has a BB drop height relative to the axles and feels like a cruiser in comparison (both on 700c rims).

TL;DR higher BB, in relation to axle height, means a more nimble bike, lower BB is a more stable bike. especially while standing.


Advice on buying a SCOTT SUB Sport 10 2014

Scott is a fine brand. The most important thing is how it rides and fits for you (this is a highly personal decision on your end).

For a 90 mile ride though, you may want something with drops (with a relaxed geometry - something like a Trek 520 wouldn't be bad for this purpose, for example) or a flat bar with bar ends or a trekking bar or something for multiple hand positions if you're taking the 90 miles in essentially 1 or 2 shots. However, I'm not familiar with the particular European terrain, so I'll defer to the Europeans.


Bicycle weight limit (carrying capacity) increase

On a non-folding bike,  I'd look at the wheels, and probably replace them with 36 spoke touring wheels and reasonably wide, tough tyres (e.g. 35mm). The tyres absorb some of the shock loads.
However a folding bike has made some compromises affecting the structural strength, as well as introducing weak points. Two major ones are the main hinge and seat post. The latter is probably OK as your added load isn't on it, but the main hinge will be under added stress from the extra unsprung mass. It's probably not replaceable or serviceable, and obviously overloading the specifications would give the manufacturer an excuse to get out of warranty repair. The risk here is that the frame won't last as long as it should.
Adding a mid drive motor may not be as easy as you think - there's not much room given the need to not affect the folding, combined with the small wheels (short chainstays and reduced ground clearance). A kit for a different folder might help, but might be very specific in its mounting.


The sleeve provides a tiny amount of extra protection for the bearings and is not structural in this instance.
They are often fiddly to fit on these "boutique" bottom brackets and even people who deal with them frequently can cock up the tube alignment from time to time.
You may be able to break it up with a screwdriver, if it's brittle enough, to remove the pieces. Otherwise you will need to whip the BB out to remove it. Not having the tube there won't affect bearing life in any meaningful way unless you regularly fill your frame with sand.


How can I fix panniers that have got holes in

If you have water proof panniers made of soft plastic, patches made for fixing holes in bike tubes are really great (depending on the size of the holes in the panniers of course).


No, DUB cranks are not compatible with any existing bottom bracket.
DUB is the deign of the crank spindle and the bearings in the BB. A dub crank only fits in a dub bottom bracket. It’s possible to get DUB bottom brackets that fit in many different frame bottom bracket shell standards, that may be where the confusion originates.
If you want different cranks you either have to get DUB compatible ones, or replace the bottom bracket along with the crank. There are many different crank and bottom brackets that fit in a threaded bottom bracket frame shell. If you choose to go with non-DUB cranks, you will have to deal with other compatibility issues such as getting the proper crank chainline. You’ll also need some special tools or a repair shop’s help to un and re-install the bottom brackets.
In your position, I would look for a used SRAM DUB crank that is a drop-in replacement for your current one; possibly one in rough condition or missing the chainring that is relatively inexpensive. If you do not like the shorter arms you will be able to sell it for approximately what you purchased it for.


Why do bikes have their drivetrains on the right?

Because (most) people are right handed.

Right side drivetrains are rooted in the fact that rotating clockwise causes bolts, etc. to tighten—this dates back to the first "safety bicycles" introduced in the 19th century. With the drivetrain on the right, more (standard threaded) parts will be rotating clockwise and thus tightening themselves as the rider pedals.

Drivetrains are on the right today because that's what bicycle builders decided to do in the late 1800s. As to why they originally decided to put drivetrains on the right, it's probably because rear cogs used to be screwed on (some still are). Standard threads dictate rear cogs be on the right, so that pedaling force tightens the cogs. (If they were on the left, pedaling force would likely loosen cogs.)

Today, left-hand drivetrains are possible, but more difficult to create because more reverse-threaded parts are needed. Generally, things like pedals and bottom brackets have threads that are reversed/asymmetric on one side. They're made specifically to work when the drivetrain is on the right—tightening themselves as the rider pedals. If these standard parts are placed on a bicycle with a drivetrain on the left, then those same parts will be loosening themselves as the rider rides.

But why do right-turning bolts tighten? Shortly before the safety bicycle was introduced in the 19th century, the right-turning convention was adopted because it's better to have all bolts work the same way and it's easier to turn them with your right hand. And most people are right handed.


At what age/stage should my child be at before I start using a child seat?

The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute, the US Consumer Product Safety Commission and the American Academy of Pediatrics agree that:

  ...children under 1 year of age should not be on bicycles. Children are just learning to sit unsupported at about 9 months of age. Until this age, infants have not developed sufficient bone mass and muscle tone to enable them to sit unsupported with their backs straight. Pediatricians advise against having infants sitting in a slumped or curled position for prolonged periods. This position may even be exacerbated by the added weight of a bicycle helmet on the infant’s head.

In some US jurisdictions it is illegal for children under the age of 1 to be passengers on a bicycles as well.


Choice of spare tyre and tube in Europe for 40-559(ETRTO) or 26"X1.5

40-559 is the number to match. For tubes, the ETRTO number is a range of fitting tire sizes. For complete explanation, see http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

EDIT: This answer originally hinted that 37-590 would be correct. It isn't, 559 is the rim diameter and it must match.


Alternative cranksets for a cross-country mountain bike larger than 48t

Wanting a bigger ring indicates you'd like a higher gear, not a lower one. Low gears are your climbing gears.

Part of the answer depends on which front derailleur you have. Front derailleurs have a profile to their outer cage that needs to match well with the profile of a given chainring size in order to perform well and not cause derailment. If you have a hybrid or trekking type triple FD whose spec sheet lists compatibility up to 48t, then pushing up to 50 might work okay, but it might also be pretty mediocre. If you want to really go nuts, some success can be had be grinding the shape different, but it's easy for this to go south.

I don't think that 50t 104mm BCD chainrings for derailleur use exist. Narrow-wides in 50 and 52 do exist if you wanted to 1x it. There are numerous questions here about how to determine if you want to do that.

If you wanted to spend some money, you could easily do what you want here by getting a road shifter, front derailleur, and crank.

Many bikes with the sort of gearing you've got will encounter clearance problems with the chainrings if you go any bigger.


I'm torn here between attempting to answer this question, and voting to close it on the grounds that you'll only ever get an opinion-based answer. But, to give the benefit of the doubt....

For the first part of your question, I'd say it was unlikely, but your pertinent words are "using a motor". He may well have cheated using other means, in  particular the blood doping for which he is now infamous.

This is largely because I think the answer to the second part of your qurstion is "no". I think that in 1999, battery technology was sufficiently primitive that it would have been impossible to conceal a motor, or that a motor that was concealable would deliver such negligible power as to be ineffective when it comes to increasing your speed. I mean, this is arguable even with 2016 technology - have a look at the size of a bettery on one of today's e-bikes, and you'll see why I say this.

I think you only have to look at mobile (cell) phones of the day to convince yourself of the limits of the technology. My gut feel is that any film you watched which showed motors was using lots of artistic license - if it contained a pile of syringes, I'd be a lot more convinced.


Did the Giant Trinity A1 come with a derailleur hanger?

The rear derailleur hanger on the Trinity was not replaceable, it was part of the frame and was there at the time of production.

If there is no hanger on the end of the rear drop out then it has likely been either:

purposely removed (to make a single speed or fixie, possibly for track racing);
sheered off in a crash (or deformed and then removed); or
not an authentic Trinity frame.


How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake?

The desired conversion is possible, but maybe Trek won't do it as a "default" service. You could consider going to the local bike shop and trade some of the bike parts (specially the gearing system) for a coaster brake wheel.

If your bike is like the one in the photo, you need to replace the rear hub, and get rid of the cogset, the derailer and the twist-shifter. You can do this at home if you have some mechanical skils, but replacing the hub and relacing the spokes is not very simple.

And if you're so chatty with the lovely ladies as you are when asking questions on the internet, they sure get a lot of talk! ;o)

EDIT: As Freiheit has correctly pointed, when you put a single cog and get rid of the derailer, something must be added to compensate for the almost inevitable chain slack. I suggest a tensioner like this, of DMR brand (with a bolt, to be placed in a fixed position, not a spring):

MORE EDIT!!!!
As people correctly pointed out, you CANNOT use a chain tensioner if you use a coaster brake. So the solutions are:

Use a chain tensioner but not a coaster brake;
Choose a magic combination of chainring and cog size (very difficult, might not give you a good gear ratio, cannot compensate for chain slack;
Use an adaptor (usually not the most robust solution, but ok for a cruiser if you really want the coaster brake):


I would avoid doing this. If the Teflon lube has any kind of solvent in it (which it probably does to carry the Teflon), it will break down the grease in the bottom bracket. Eventually, the grease will thin out enough that it will flow out of the bottom bracket, and No More Lube=A Very Bad Thing.

If you are using a basic cartridge bottom bracket, they are typically not serviceable, and you'll have to replace it when it wears out. Higher end cartridge BBs have replaceable bearings.

If you have a more traditional-style cup/cone/spindle BB, you can service it, but you'll have to remove everything. After cleaning and checking for damage, reassemble with a heavier lube (marine grade bearing grease is good; available at most auto supply and hardware stores) to resist the wet, and go ride!


mounting disk brake caliper problem: wheel doesn't spin freely, rubs outside pad, and caliper already as far to outside as possible

Your problem may be that you're misunderstanding mechanical disc brakes.

On most, only the outside pad moves, the disc is bent onto the inside pad. This means the loosen, clamp and tighten method doesn't work. You can do it by eye, or use a spacer between the inside pad and disk when you tighten it up.

Hayes install instructions are here.


One option would be to use an iPhone. If you use software such as MapMyRide you can integrate it with ANT+ sensors to measure speed, cadence and even heart rate. These sites also have excellent mapping, training review and history functions.

Pros:

You can use your existing phone rather than needing separate hardware
The online version of mapping software allows you to plan routes and review your history

Cons:

Waterproofing the iPhone will be harder than with dedicated hardware, although I have seen solutions (such as Biologic's case) that claim to do this.
Battery life will be an issue. You'll need to find a way to keep it charging (using a hub generator as seen here) or have battery extenders (as seen in the millions on ebay).
Maps are downloaded from google maps so you'll need to have a data plan.


Unfortunately I think that level of damage with a big dent and buckled top tube will make the bike dangerous to ride. There's a chance that when a big bump  or pothole is hit the top tube will fold and dump the rider face first into the road.

Additionally, the head tube probably is not aligned with the seat tube anymore, which means the wheels are misaligned which will negatively affect steering.


Good goggles over glasses for a small head?

Safety Glasses.

I no longer bother with prescription sunglasses, I have multiple pairs of Uvex safety glasses that fit nicely over my glasses.  There are multiple lenses that filter all UV, come in different colours, etc.  I also have a pair with clear lenses that I use when it's particularly dusty or dirty.  (e.g. I sometimes ride over a very busy bridge)

If you do go with some sort of safety glasses, you can either find someplace online that sells them or look for a local safety/industrial supply company.

Here's some more Uvex-specific information, I'm sure other brands would also work:

The glasses I use are the Uvex Genesis with Espresso Lenses.  The Gold Mirror lens looks cooler (both are 100% UV) but the gold surface finish is more fragile.  The lenses on these and many other safety glasses are interchangeable so if you want another colour or need a replacement, you don't need to buy the frame.  OTOH, the frames are not expensive so it's possible to have multiple shades for different conditions.  (The last pair I bought last year was about Can$35.)

Uvex has a smaller series called the Genesis Slim that might meet your need for a smaller pair of glasses.  They don't have as many colour choices for lenses, but both of the "Grey" choices block 100% of UV.  This page has PDFs of reference info: which tints are available for which frames, details of the different lens tints.


There's no reason to worry about carbon fibre durability. I'm riding on a 20 year old Specialized Epic Allez (CF tubes with Al lugs), and it's just as light and stiff as it was when new.

If you have a serious accident CF may break in a non-repairable way, but the same is more-or-less true about aluminium as well, although it may take more of a tumble to break it. (In theory Al can be welded, but you have to be very careful, as the welding will wreck the heat treatment.)

At the same time, CF is more expensive. If I would buy a new bike today I would probably get a decent aluminium frame and instead spend more money on the components, rather than an expensive frame with sub-par groupset.