Is it possible to wear out the cassette lockring threads?

Like any bolt, it  can wear down over time, even if it's being installed and removed properly.
But, the biggest issue will be with incorrect installation or removal. Main issues that will damage the lockring are:

Not inserting the tool into the lockring correctly
Using a tool which is roundered at the teeth
The threads are fine, cross-threading when installing
Over tightening - check whether the lockring is alu, if it is, it'll be weaker than a steel one
Snapping the thin washer - this washer helps protect the teeth on the smallest ring too

From proper removal and installation, it's unlikely that you will wear the lockring quicker than you wear the cassette itself. There are plenty of people who do this monthly in the summer and every 1 or 2 weeks in the winter on their bikes with an ultrasonic cleaner.
The biggest challange is making sure you don't make a mistake and damage the ring during remomal or installation. So invest in a good lockring tool and always start it by hand to avoid cross threading.


What is the difference between the different oils for a suspension?

In bicycle hydraulic brakes, there are systems designed for DOT (3/4/5.1) brake fluid, and systems designed for mineral oil. Using the wrong fluid can damage seals and cause terminal failure (and death).

As far as I know, all oil used in MTB suspension is essentially the same basic fluid, plus additives. Citroën did use mineral-based "LHM" fluid for decades but eventually gave in and fell in-line with the rest of the auto industry.

Bicycle suspension forks tend to use light oils.

Gear oil will be too thick. Motor oil may have additives to help it perform in an engine which might interfere with the operation of your fork. The first three in your list are usualy synonyms.

The owner's manual for your fork should specify the oil grade and either a volume to measure or a method to judge the right level. If your fork also uses grease, I'd be more concerned about using the original manufacturer's fluids and grease, but otherwise any suspension oil of the correct grade should be fine.


Slightly smaller is fine

There's really no possible problems going just a wee bit smaller. Even going much smaller would probably be fine.

Slightly larger is probably ok

With the original 26 x 2.0 tires on the bike, check the clearances. Remember that a 2.1 tire will be both wider and "taller". Look at how much space there is around the tire at the fork crown, where the tire is close to the downtube, where the tire passes between the seat stays, where the tire passes between the chainstays, where the tire gets closest to the seat tube... As long as there's room for a wider tire, it'll be fine.

It's really common to change out tires for slightly different sized ones.


is there such as thing as a tapered-to-straight adapter for MTB headset?

Yes, many headsets made for it come with a crown race reducer. Cane Creek, FSA, Nukeproof and several other big names make them so that you can convert a tapered frame to accept a standard straight 1-1/8" fork. Just be sure to take note of what type of bearing/headset your frame uses whether it be external, zero stack or integrated.
You can also likely buy the crown race reducer separately to be used with your choice of headset. A google search for "reducer crown race" will net you the results you are looking for.


Purpose of this screw on my mountain bike's (BCA 29SC) rear dropout/derailleur and how to fix?

The derailleur you are using has an integrated adapter claw. A rear derailleur hangar claw. The bolt you have circled is used with a special washer to properly orient and secure the claw, which puts the derailleur in necessary position and alignment to the cogs for good shifting. This bolt has little to do with the axle alignment of the wheel and once it is in correct position with it's special washer/nut and secured, it shouldn't be loosened.  Occasional inspection and possibly re-torquing the bolt to an appropriate tightness is all that is necessary after install.
Typically with a claw hangar the special washer/nut has a rounded side which has a lip of metal around it's radius. The rounded end fits into the rounded end of the frame's right rear drop out--this helps position the claw hangar correctly.  The lip around the perimeter, sits on the inside of the drop out, following the arched perimeter of the end of the dropout.  Tightening the bolt into the washer/nut brings this lip tight to the inside of the dropout and acts to secure the claw hangar to the frame.
When you want to adjust the wheel, you need only loosen the larger axle fixing nut. Loosen both the right and left axle nuts, center the wheel fully in the drop-outs. The axle will be touching the claw's fixing washer/nut on the right. The left axle may have a bit of gap between the closed end of the dropout and the axle. This may be necessary for proper wheel alignment and centering.  Tightening the axle nuts up again, go back and forth, right to left, more or less tightening the nuts up together. This preserves the centering of the wheel since one side is not becoming overly tight compared to the other side which can cause deflection of the wheel in the dropouts.
For clarity, I've included a photo of a universal derailleur hangar with the same fixing system as your integrated claw hangar.  This highlights the specially shaped nut which sits in the end of the dropout.  The hangar is then fixed in correct position by the clamping force of the lip at the inside and body of the hangar outside as they are drawn together by the tightening bolt.


If only one side is creaking, it's probably the pedal or crank arm not screwed tight. So first tight them up (for the pedal you probably need a special wrench, for crank arm it's a 8mm hex or 14mm wrench). You should tight it as fast as you can, as it can brake the crank arm.

When both sides are creaking, it could be that both sides are loose, but it also can be a problem in wheels i.e. spokes are loose, or hub is broken, or it can be the BB.

Those are the much common problems, but as @mattM linked at sheldon brown, it can be other things as well.


Any experience with spokes breaking on new Trek 720 touring bike

To close this out and give an answer specific to this model of bike; no this is not a usual amount of spoke breakage, Trek have issued a safety recall notice for this wheelset based on the rate of spoke breakage and the risk of the broken spoke then getting caught in the brake caliper which could then cause a serious accident.
Trek issue this warning:

DO NOT RIDE YOUR BICYCLE UNTIL THE WHEEL HAS BEEN INSPECTED
If you break a spoke, it could engage the brake caliper and you could be
involved in a serious accident. Do not ride this bicycle until your
dealer has inspected the bicycle to determine if it is affected by
this recall.

All the details can be found here:
Trek Safety Recall Notice for Bontrager Approved TLR Disc 700C 24H Front and Rear Wheels


How to create tension in old upright handle bar levers / U brakes?

Well done for adding the video link - I saw the problem immediately.

The problem is in a brake lever. The body of the lever must hold the outer housing and pull the cable through it. Your housing goes through the lever body and touches the lever, and is pulled by the lever along with the cable.

You are missing the barrel adjuster mechanism on the lever that the housing fits in to but cannot pass through (it has a smaller hole for the cable).


Yeap- no reason not to. I do the same on my mountain bike, I prefer the width of the wider rear to enable stability/grip whilst the front is just wide enough to steer in the direction. Most inner tubes will work over quite a range of tyre sizes & the same for rims. Make sure you check the specification of both if you are concerned.


The pedals you have are known as mountain bike clipless pedals. They have a platform side where you can use normal sneakers/shoes to ride, and the other side with the "hump" is the clipless side. There are special shoes with cleats on the bottom that attach to the pedals,and they're there to increase your pedaling capacity by allowing you to pull up on them as well as push down. As for weighting the pedals I wouldn't know how as I don't have the pedals in my hand, but I'm sure that if you were to go to the hardware store with the pedals, you may be able to figure something out. I'm sure that duct taping a weight to the "hump" side would solve your problem, but keep in mind that you are adding mass to the pedals, and it may make contact with the ground (aka pedal strike) during a sharper turn.

My suggestion is to go to your local bicycle shop and buy some platforms pedals so that you don't have to go through the trouble of modding your pedals, or have the issue of extra weight, or pedal strike. And considering that cheaper platform pedals are around 15-30 dollars, I think it's a worthwhile investment as they'll be functional on both sides, without the trouble of fabricating a weight attachment.


At what slope will the best bikes keep a constant speed?

As you might expect, the exact down slope you would need for a full answer will depend on how much drag you and your bicycle produce. If you are very aerodynamically efficient and there are few losses through the bearings and tires, the slope can be shallower. If you create a lot of drag either via aerodynamic inefficiency or mechanical and rolling resistance, the slope will need to be steeper. You can calculate the slope yourself if you know the equations for motion on a bicycle and can make reasonable guesses about the parameter values. The equations are given in one of the answers to this bicycles.stackexchange question.

In short, you are looking for the slope so that while coasting at equilibrium speed the power will be zero; that is, at equilibrium speed you are neither accelerating or decelerating (so the kinetic energy is zero) and you are coasting so the power is zero. That is,

Watts = 0 = (Crr + slope) * kg * g * v + 0.5 * rho * CdA * v^3

where Crr is the coefficient of rolling resistance, kg is the total mass of the rider and bike, g is the gravity constant (9.8 meters/sec^2), rho is the air density in kg/m^3, CdA is the "drag area" (Cd is the coefficient of aerodynamic drag and A is frontal area, so their product Cd*A is also known as the drag area), and v is the speed in meters/sec.

Slope for a given speed

The equation above can be re-arranged to solve for slope:

slope = (0.5*rhoCdAv^2)/(kg*g) - Crr

In your question, 80 km/h is 22.2 m/s and 50 km/h is 13.9 m/s.

Air density, rho, at sea level is typically near 1.2 kg/m^3

Crr for a high quality tire on an asphalt road is typically around .0045.

CdA for a rider on a conventional bike in the drops is typically in the range of 0.24 to 0.3 m^2; for a rider on a TT bike in the aerobars, CdA is typically in the range of 0.2 to 0.28 m^2; for a rider in a streamlined fully-faired recumbent bicycle the CdA has been measured at under .02 m^2.

Let's say you and your bike together weigh a total of 80 kg, rho=1.2, Crr=.0045, and CdA = .24. What is the slope so that you would reach an equilibrium speed of 50 km/h (13.9 m/s) while coasting? That would be

slope = (0.5*rhoCdAv^2)/(kg*g) - Crr or
slope = (0.5*1.2*0.24*13.9^2)/(80*9.8) - .0045

Thus, the downslope is -0.04, or -4%.

Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h with the same mass, rho, and CdA? That would be -0.095, or -9.5%.

Suppose you wanted to know how steep the slope would need to be to attain an equilibrium speed of 80 km/h in the streamlined Varna Diablo? If one had access to the power and speed data for a speed run, and one also knew the road profile, the air density on the day, the wind speed, and the total mass of vehicle and rider, one can estimate the Crr and CdA given the method described in the linked bicycles.stackexchange answer. I have done that: Crr and CdA appear to be in the range of .0045 and .0175, as noted above. Battle Mountain, NV, where the world human powered vehicle speed runs are attempted, is at an elevation of around 1375 meters (4500 ft) above sea level, but if you could make the run at sea level with a total mass of 90 kg, you could attain an equilibrium coasting speed of 80 km/hr at a down slope of -.011, or -1.1%.

Terminal Speed

A related question is, given a slope, what would the equilibrium speed be, assuming the slope is long enough to reach maximum speed? This is also known as the "terminal speed." In this case, we can re-arrange the equations of motion to determine the speed in meters per second, v. That equation is

v (in m/s) =  sqrt( -2*(Crr+slope)massg/(rho*CdA))

For example, if Crr = .0045, slope = -3% = -.03, mass=80, g=9.8, rho=1.2, and CdA = 0.24, then v = 11.78 m/s. To convert to km/h, multiply v by 3.6; v = 11.78 m/s is equivalent to 42.4 km/h or 26.4 mph.


What are the benefits of removable presta valve cores?

As others have mentioned one reason is to make it easier to installed slime/sealant into a tube or tire. Typically you'll take the valve off, and use an injector to put the slime into the tire.

For tubeless tire setups, removing the valve core allows a higher volume of air to quickly get into the tire when you are first blowing it onto the rim.

Some types of valve extenders used by people with deep profile rims thread into the valve core threads.

Another reason to have removable Presta valves is they tend to be somewhat fragile so being able to replace a busted valve vs. having to replace the whole tube could potentially save a little bit of money (or allot of money if we are talking about breaking the valve core on a $150 tubular tire.)

The valve cores should be consistent from maker to maker.


When I was a child I learned that with a flat you would first pump up the tube and wait overnight (if you had the time) before going through the effort of patching it.
As part of that pump-up action you would check the valve was tight.
Only if flat or soft again the next day we would spend the time and effort patching.
Very often it is indeed the valve which has a problem. Different types of valves can have different problems, in the ones we used there is a ring pushing the actual valve in position and it is rather likely for that ring to be less than tight. And those valves we used when I was a child had a bit of rubber tube, which often failed, so it was not uncommon to take the valve out and replace that tube. These days I often replace the current valve with a new one, just to make sure.
Other kinds of valve have a different system of closure and those are really likely to be tightened properly when you finish pumping or may re-set themselves when the tube comes to full power.
Slow leaks are often slow enough to hold air for quite a while. Do check the outside of the tire if you want to keep riding after a flat, as if a sharp item is logged in the tire, it will make for a much worse set of holes in the tube. There are different approaches. If you will replace the tube anyhow, you may want to leave the hole-maker in, to plug the hole. But if you need to patch the tube, do not ride any farther with a sharp in the tire.
I own a bike cart which has been allowed to have a slow leak for more than a decade, more likely closer to 25 years, as the loss of air was so slow that we would never be surprised by a flat while underway. I have now a new tube for it, as it is now no longer a slow leak, it was flat in about 10 minutes. (But I have to admit that I have not checked the valve yet.)
So yes, if you have the time, first just pump (and check/properly close the valve) when you have a flat.


How to mount a derailleur hanger on this frame?

You have answered your own question, correctly too.

Those generic hangers are exactly what you want.  The golden piece held on with the short bolt should slide up the dropout and rest against the curved end, and your wheel axle clamps down on the hanger.

Then your rear derailleur will thread into the large 10mm hole in the hanger.

Its not complex, but it can be fiddly with tolerances.  Good work, all I can do is confirm you're on the right track.


Bottom bracket noise is a frequent problem, and often hard to diagnose.

First and foremost, check the tightness of the crank bolts.  (Your LBS should have done this when they checked out the bike.)  A loose crank bolt can be the cause of BB noise, and failure to tend to the problem immediately (if not sooner) can result in irreparable damage to the crank arm.

After that there are a number of possible causes.  On a non-derailleur bike the chain may simply be too tight.  On a derailleur bike the chain may have a frozen link.  There may be a bent chainring tooth, or a deformed chain link.

Rarely, the problem can be due to bearing problems within the BB, but much more often with BB cartridges the cups have worked slightly loose and the cartridge is sliding back and forth in the housing (harmless and easily fixed).

On bikes with loose bearings (vs a cartridge) in the bottom bracket a loose cup can allow the crank to actually tilt slightly, such that the chain hangs up on the sprocket.  (This is easily diagnosed by simply grabbing the crank and shaking it -- there should be no bearing play detected.)

And pedal bearings seem (to me) to go out with aggravating frequency.

Then, of course, there's the "trick" knee or ankle that clicks sometimes.


It's perfectly okay to run different sizes, brands, and types of tires on the front and rear.  As you note, rears will wear faster due to carrying more of the load.  The grip threshold is largely irrelevant, since the front and rear will be exposed to different forces and grip requirements.

The main concern is keeping within the range of a single tube size if possible, since otherwise you'd need to have twice the spares on hand.

At the extreme end, there are 69er and 96er mountain bikes that mix and match 29" (622) and 26" (559) wheels on the same bike as well as Terry women's bikes with 24" (520) front wheels and 700c (622) rear.  By necessity those run very different tires front and rear.


Can someone help me identify this bicycle?

BikePedia has an entry about a bike that looks to be the same as what you posted.

It's a Cannondale Adventure 400 femenine model.  It appears that this came with a front shock initally, but may have been fitted with a rigid front fork (or there were alternate models without the shock).

These appear to have been produced for several years, with a mostly similar design. I'm not quite sure what year that model is.


I purchased a Vuelta mountain crankset which came with steel chainrings in the same 44-23-22 sizes to replace the alloy rings on the same crankset you have.  Everything seems to work fine after some minor adjustment of the front derailleur.


Do calorie estimates for rides include Basal Metabloic Rate?

Using my two Garmin devices, I lay down for 30 minutes watching a film.

Both recorded an average heartrate of 60 bpm. The 810 gave 35 kcal, the 910xt 45 kcal

So 70 - 90 kcal per hour : 1680 - 2160 kcal per day. It looks like the BMR is included in the figures, so that I have to subtract 100 kcal an hour or so to estimate my additional expenditure.

Garmin Connect shows the same figure as the device. Syncing the data over to Strava, it turns out that Strava doesn't estimate Calories without a GPS track or power data. So it looks like I'll have to try the next experiment in the garden.

Upate - I've finally gotten round to sitting still in the garden for 10 minutes with the 810 and a heart-rate strap. The result - Garmin Connect shows 16 kcal - my BMR, whereas Strava showed 0 kcal. So it looks like Strava only shows work based on the track data.

Update - I freewheeled down a 4 minute descent with my Vector pedals measuring no power input. The Calories consumed as displayed on the 810 did not go up at all. So it looks like the Garmin is inconsistently not including BMR when it has a source of power data.


Does brake modulation matter, for efficiency, beyond having enough to avoid locking the wheels?

You say "Surely the brakes should always be used to near maximum stopping power". This is where the first need for modulation comes from. Stopping power has at least as much to do with grip between the wheel and the road than the torque your brakes can except on the wheel. Maximum stopping power comes from the front wheel (plenty of discussion about that here) and you really want that to not skid. Thus you need to modulate the front brake if you're riding on varying surfaces. Similarly if for some reason you need to brake on a bend, you'd better make it gentle. In both these cases pulsing the brakes at a humanly-feasible frequency won't help - the initial loss of traction when you jam them on its what will start the skid. I don't think you can assume perfect or even constant grip anywhere let alone on a trail. Think of leaves on a packed surface - the grip can deteriorate with little to no visible change.  A bike set up for one set of conditions will be used in a variety. By using your brakes only at max strength (which would have to be quite high) you're removing a useful degree of freedom.

Riding in traffic - as you may do on any bike, even if just to get to a trail. you may want to go slowly to catch a gap or just because you're stuck in a queue. Your pulsing technique would work better here, however it makes for a very jerky ride - not what you want if one hand is off the bars to signal, especially if it's the hand that works your front brake. It wouldn't really be a good idea to set up a MTB that couldn't brake gently. In design you also have to assume a rider who is inexperienced of unfamiliar with the conditions; the latter especially may want to brake progressively which requires modulation.


Can I use Shimano Claris shifter to my Shimano Tourney road bike

No. The sprocket spacing gets narrower as the number of sprockets goes up - to keep the cassette width constant (until 11 speed where it gets slightly wider).

An 8 speed shifter will not index correctly as it is pulling cable length increments for 8 speed spacing not 7 speed.

Tourney isn't really compatible with any Shimano components in the levels above it, so a better route to go would be to replace the entire groupset (you can probably get away with not upgrading the crank).

Many people in this community feel that Tourney level bikes are not worth spending money on upgrading, and it's better to sell them and buy a whole new bike a step up.


What is a good starter mountin bike? (in France)

I want to see if mountain biking is for me or not.
  Ideally, it would be a bike that could handle a lot of climbs and be reliable for less than 700€

I can't recommend products but I can offer some thoughts on buying a new bike.

Most major bike makers have a model (usually more than one) in your price range. The brands keep an eye on each other and usually stay pretty even on features and quality at a given price point. Given the variety of mountain bikes - even from just one manufacturer how do you choose between the styles?

On any bike it comes down to your preferences. In order to know what your preferences are you have to try different things and see what works for you. That's why the ice cream store offers little samples - so you can try it and figure out what you like.

The key is time in the saddle on different bikes.
It would be nice if you could gain experience as cheap as possible.

There are many ways to find the right bike. Here are a few options (in no particular order)

Option 1:
Find someplace that rents a variety of mountain bikes.
- Hard tail
- full suspension
- etc.

Ride a bike enough that you have a feel for what it does and then try a different bike. Figure out what you like and then buy something new.

Option 2:
Borrow a mountain bike from someone who likes you enough to loan you their bike.

Option 3:
If you are careful it is possible to buy a used bike, ride it and then sell it for most of what you paid for it. This can be a lot of work and it takes some knowledge of bikes and the bike market but some people really like wheeling and dealing.

Option 4:
Bike shops will let you test ride bikes and talk with you about what you like and don't like. It's not the same as a day on the trail with a rental bike but it is cheaper.

Once you decide if you like mountain biking and learn what you want in a bike you'll be able to make an informed purchase.

Last thing. How a bicycle is assembled matters.
There is a right way and a wrong way to assemble a bike. In the best case a poorly assembled bike is annoying. In the worst case it's dangerous. Anything you buy should be assembled by someone who knows what they are doing.


Would like to know if the following Crankset is compatible?

FD-C050 is profiled for a 42. This degree of mismatch is usually not enough to keep it from working at all, but it's not necessarily negligible either. The tighter curve may force the FD to need to be mounted higher than ideal, which can result in inferior contact with the chain and/or gaps that allow derailment. An FD is a cheap enough part that I recommend just getting one that you know will play nice with your 48 and be done with it.
As pointed out in the comments, it's possible to run into frame clearance limitations with the bigger rings.
Total capacity is 43 on RD-CT95 so that's fine.
If the chain is sized right for your current crank, it will be too short for the new one.


Are disc brakes weak? And what is "bedding in"?

Bedding-in is a common process with new disc brake pads. Disc brakes were developed much earlier for motorcycles and cars, from which the technology and the terminology has been transferred to MTBs: see https://ebcbrakes.com/articles/motorcycle-bed-in/ and http://www.centricparts.com/files/White%20Paper%20Revisions%204-2012/Centric%20White%20Paper%20C3-2012-Bed-In%20Stock.pdf

Bedding-in is a process in which both the pad surface microstructure but also the surface composition of the rotor is affected. During the run-in a very thin layer of material is transferred from the pads to the rotor. This surface deposit increases the brake power significantly.

However, even when the brake pads are not yet bedded-in, a disc brake should have more stopping power than a rim brake. So I wonder whether the surface of the rotor or possibly the pads have inadvertently been poisened by a lubricant. Ask the seller to clean the rotor with alcohol.


Replace your hex seatbolt with a knobbed or winged bolt of the same strength and sizing specifications.

Clamping knob:

Wing screw:

(I happened to see these at http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section8/, but do not know if they are up to spec. @WTHarper mentioned the McMaster-Carr site that has lots of options.)


In the words of the Rolling Stones: Paint It Back. You may need to experiment to find something durable but it should be quite easy to find something suitable.


tyre size for a 28" bike, at the moment: 35C, is 32C too narrow?

I doubt the rolling resistance or air resistance will be much changed by using a 3 mm narrower tyre.  In terms of compatibility there's a chart here where you can check your rim size against safe tyre combinations.  Although as it says below, many people go outside this range without problems and I have done so myself.


Is there any reason not to buy 2x11 GRX shifters for a 1x setup if I don't plan on adding a dropper post?

None that I can think of. It will be much easier to use the 2x shifter, rather than swapping out the dropper lever for a shifter later down the road.


Why does front wheel keep more air pressure then rear wheel over time?

If air pressure is dropping, the air is escaping. This is the simplest explanation. Other hypothetical causes, such as molecular oxygen being bound with  other chemical substances inside the tube, are much less likely to happen unless you have very powerful enemies to organize such chemical reaction inside your tires without you knowing it. Even that would not explain the rate of deflation anyway.
Oxygen and nitrogen molecules (which are 99% of air) are really tiny and are in fact continuously escaping the tube though rubber's natural pores all the time. But this process is slow, and it would take months to deflate a tube. Anything faster than that means that your tube has larger (but still tiny) holes or a faulty valve.

I have checked everything no leakage anywhere.

Patched holes in a tube can sometimes re-open when temperature gets higher (this is mostly for "glue-on" patches, not the vulcanizing ones). Invisible smallest holes can become visible when a tube gets inflated to a higher pressure. Putting  a tube under water and taking your time to monitor all suspicious bubbles on its surface is still the best way to find leaks.
For the peace of mind, I recommend changing the tube to something of a better quality, or at least not from the same manufacturer, in order to make sure that it is not a factory defect affecting the whole batch of tubes. A usual advice is, while changing tubes, is to re-check the inside of the tire for foreign sharp objects. You do not want to spoil a brand new tube due to an oversight.


How to get a very tight tire back on the rim?

The above video shows how to fit a tight tire / rim combination. Although it shows the Marathon Plus tire, it applies to any tire.

The crucial point he makes on the video is that the tire bead doesn't stretch and is the limiting factor in getting the tire on. Thus you need to push the bead into the well of the rim on the sides opposite to the last bit you're trying to get on. Doing this gives you the room you need to get the last bit on.
The extra room will make it easier and you will be less likely to pinch the tube. You can use straps to hold the tire in place if you need to.

I have the Marathon Plus tires and it used to take me an hour of frustration and sore hands trying to get them on. Using the technique in the video it takes me 5 mins like any other tire.


Can I attach a rear cargo rack directly to the seat clamp?

Before dual eyelets on the seatstays, using a single strut going to the seatstay bridge was common. Most racks either have the holes in the center for this or can be drilled. Then you flatten out a twisted strut with a vise or pliers and put a 90 degree bend in it at the end. Fine for all but heavy loads and much neater. And presuming this is some kind of racy 90s GT hardtail like it looks, it probably has short chainstays and you wouldn't really want to put a heavy load on it.
Doing what you propose could also work. It would need extra long struts on many bikes. If the struts are really long, the triangulation from having two of them might yield little or no stability advantage over having just one running to the bridge, which will be much closer. I would do that last before the above or just running p-clamps on the stays.
Using this area as the upper strut attacment point is good to do on really small bikes when it's the shortest run for the strut(s). That's when anything else would be a contrivance. So that's the good application of the rack-mount collars or of doing what you propose.


Shifter/brake-lever compatibility with front and rear derailleurs

You can actually use any 8, 9 or 10 speed Shimano rear road derailleur, or an 8 or 9 speed rear mountain derailleur with your 8 speed shifters and cassette.

The reason for this is that Shimano used the same actuation ratio (ratio of lateral movement to length cable pulled) for all those derailleurs. As long as the shifters match the cassette it will work.

There is one exception I know of which is Tiagra 4700 10 speed, which uses Shimano's 11 speed actuation ratio (See Compatibility of bar end Shifters and 10 spd Tiagra).


How much is average annual maintenance of a mid-range electric bike?

I have a Cube ebike with a bosch system. I have had it for a little over a year and done 5000km on it.

The expenses have been replacing the regular bike parts. Over 5000km I have had to buy

2 chains
1 cassette + chain ring
6 pairs of brake pads
1 handle bar grips
2 tires
1 bottle of chain lube
1 inner tube

I have used this bike about 50% on road and 50% on mountain bike trails. Your tires and brake pads would last longer on just road usage although thin road bike tires have less rubber and wear out even faster. Work out how much these parts cost to replace on your bike and you will have somewhat of an idea on how much it costs to maintain. Also factor in if you will be doing repairs yourself or getting a store to do them.

The actual ebike parts are a little hard to price. None of them have broken for me and I don't expect them to break any time soon but if they did they are very expensive and non standard. The battery is probably the most likely to wear out and a 400Wh bosch battery costs something like $800AUD

  Also, do e-bike repairs usually get done same day?

Depends what it is and how busy the store is. Something like a puncture repair will usually be done same day but a full service will be booked in usually a week in advance (but still finished the day you drop it off)


What are the advantages (or dis-) of the GT triple triangle frame?

A significant drawback I've found (I've got one of their hybrids) is reduced options for mounting things:

My toddler seat has to go lower than it otherwise would, making it much harder to fit panniers underneath.
I can't fit a triangular tool bag there
It makes fitting a D-lock mount inside the triangle harder

(obviously these 3 are pretty much mutually exclusive anyway)

Also it makes shouldering the bike harder -- your shoulder is further forward meaning the bike isn't as well balanced.


Yes, you need to buy a freewheel. It's almost certainly a standard one so you can go into any LBS and grab whatever they have.

The main thing to know is that it should screw on easily by hand. If it doesn't you've either not got the thread started properly, or the thread is the wrong size. Ideally put a tiny bit of grease on it so it'll come off more easily when it wears out. Chain lube is better than nothing if you don't have grease.

This is one of those things where it's a trivial task that takes less than a minute, but if you stuff it up you have to live without a freewheel or buy a new hub, which usually means a new wheel. So it might be worth paying a bike shop to do it (they should do it on the spot if you bring in the wheel rather than the whole bike, since it's quick and easy).

Getting it off is where you need a special tool. The ratchet mechanism means that putting it on the wheel is the non-rotating direction, but getting it off means having a tool that locks on to the central, non-ratcheting part of the freewheel.


Is a name sticker with my name enough to prove a bike is mine if it gets stolen?

It may be better than nothing, but no.  There are free registries online that you can use to register your bike's serial number.  The shop where I purchased mine set me up as a part of the purchase.

Some home/renter's insurance policies require you to have pictures of the bike along with the registration. Pictures with a datestamp could help prove how long you have had the bike.


A tire that fits an internal rim width of between 17mm and 23mm wide.

Searching for bicycle tire width rim guide will get you more information. So anything from 700 by 17mm internal width, to 700 by 23mm internal width will suit you.

If you think you likely use skinner tires in the future, stick to the smaller end of the range. If you think you'll go wide, stick wider.


A slightly narrower tire should be fine in terms of fit on the rim. Check the manufacturer's specifications for compatible rim sizes to be sure.

You will lose some volume and impact absorption of course. A narrower tire will have a narrower contact patch so you many find that this decreases grip.


If it were coming out around the bleed screw, then checking the tightness of the screw and/or the condition of the o-ring it's hiding would be in order. Taking the screw out to look at the o-ring is something you should only do if you're prepared to bleed the brake, but it sounds like that's probably in order anyway. Bleed port o-rings getting out of place or mushed is a thing that happens.

You can also check the hose connection. Pull back the rubber shield around the hose and make sure the compression fitting is snugged in nice and securely. That coming loose would be kind of scary/weird so if it did happen you would definitely want to make sure all the threads, the olive, and the hose end and barb all looked good.

If it's anything else you probably need a new lever or complete brake. Aurigas are decent brakes but replacement seals and other rebuild type parts for them are unobtanium.


Is it possible/worth it to replace just shifters and derailleurs on an older MTB?

The great thing about bikes is that almost anything is possible for the home mechanic. But only you can answer the question of whether it's worth it.

Deraillers almost never "wear out", at most they need new jockey wheels. They can get damaged or bent, often is is the hanger that is bent not the derailluer.

So likely all you need is a new shifter, fortunately 7spd is a lot less complicated than bikes with more speeds. $17 for a new shifter

http://www.jensonusa.com/!q!CCO3MwJWuenvYwhoKCsA!/Shimano-M310-Shift-Lever?utm_source=FRGL&utm_medium=organic&gclid=CPby-unl0sMCFRRgfgodc0YAoQ

Or you could put friction shifters on for a little more cash.

What does get worn out is the rear cogs or cassette. You might need a cassette
and chain. That's about $50 more or less.

You can put new canti's on there without changing the levers, if you go to V-brakes you'll need new levers. Generally getting good performance out of canti's has more to do with how well you set them up rather than the exact model you use.

So for roughly $100-$200 in parts, you can have a functional bike again. However, if you can't do the work yourself, paying someone else to do it is a long ways towards the price of a new bike. This also assumes you already have the tools ( although these repairs don't require much in the way of specialized tools. )

For roughly 3x what you'd spend in parts, you can get a lightly used MTB hardtail that will be a much nicer bike. If however, you enjoy tinkering around with bikes, then you really aren't concerned about the cost of parts.

I've fixed up a fair number of older bikes and if you don't enjoy the process and satisfaction of making something old work again, it's almost never worth the effort.


This site describes a prototype flexible hitch for pulling carts that includes an automatic braking system. It describes using a spring loaded rod inside an outer tube, with a segment of brake cable attached to the tube:

  The simple brake cable design will make use of the force of the
  trailer moving towards the bike, which also moves the housing with the
  brake cable towards the bike. This force pushes the cable into the
  rod, which causes tension on the cable and engages the brakes.

(I believe it's ok under the CC license to republish their diagram by attributing it to the authors of the original article, Matt Ramirez, Chris Carvalho, and David Hernandez)


How much of the saddle rail is suiteable to use

As long as no part of the clamp touches the rails outside the max lines, you should be safe.

The scale is simply there to help you. It would be nice if it ran right up to the max lines, but it might still be helpful depending on the size/design of your clamp.


What are my options for cycling mirrors?

Bicycle mirrors are going fall into two basic categories- the type that you mount somewhere on your bike and the type that you mount somewhere on your head. Both categories have their pros and cons, but many of them are subjective. A pro to one individual may be considered a con to the next. Within those two categories you have a variety of different options to choose from. Here's the breakdown of those that I am aware of.

On your head

One thing to keep in mind with head mounted options is that they are always in your field of vision. You may consider this a pro, or you may consider it a con. On one hand you don't have to look off of your course of travel by much to view the mirror, on the other hand it can be distracting to always have it in your field of vision and can be awkward to focus on. Head mounted mirrors always look directly behind where your head is pointed. That means that they're not always pointed opposite your direction of travel, i.e. the road and traffic behind you. Depending on how far away from your head the mirror is, it can be difficult to get the mirror adjusted in such a way that your head does not obstruct your rear view or to where you are not looking off to an extreme angle to view the mirror. Mounting can be finicky. On the plus side they tend to be very light weight and tend to stay adjusted for the duration of your ride, and they are generally less obstructive than most bike mounted mirrors. Your options for head mounted mirrors are:

Helmet mount

Helmet mounted mirror are typically affixed with an adhesive pad or with a clamp to the front-side of your helmet. Typically they will stick out a little further than other head mounted mirrors, which is a good thing. It allows you to more easily see around your own head and you do not have to look off to as extreme of an angle. For adhesive type mounts the downsides are that the adhesive mounting point is (or is supposed to be) permanent and can potentially damage the helmet if removed. For some helmets it can be difficult to find an adequately flat surface to attach the adhesive pad to. The adhesive mount, if not appropriately attached, can fall off. If properly attached the mounting point is, in theory, permanent, although typically the mirror and the arm are removable from most mounts should you not want to use the mirror. Some of the same types of problems can arise from the clamp style helmet mount mirrors. The clamp has the potential to damage the helmet- though it is unlikely if you use due caution- and there may not be an appropriate mounting point for many helmets. If not adequately attached, the clamp may loosen and fall off.

Glasses frame mount

Glasses frame mount mirrors are similar to helmet mount mirrors in many ways, but typically sit closer to your face. This can make it a little harder to see around your own head or cause you to have to view the mirror at a more extreme angle. Mounting is easy and they are not permanent. On the other hand, they will not fit all styles of glasses and many of the plastic models are prone to breaking. Metal framed models are available which are less prone to breakage.

Glasses lens mount

Lens mount mirrors adhere to the inside of your glasses. They look great because onlookers can't tell that you are using a cycling mirror, and mirrors have a bit of a stigma attached to them, albeit undeserved. The downside to these mirrors are that depending on the shape of your glasses and the shape of your head, you might not be able to see anything with them besides your own face. It's also worth pointing out that if your require corrective lenses (not contacts) then this option is out by default. If this style of mirror works for you, you are likely in a fortunate minority.

On your bike

This category of mirror will be affixed somewhere to the front of your bike. They will not be in your field of view at all times, which depending on your preference may be mark for or against this category. You will have to take your eyes off from your course more so with a bike mounted mirror than with a head mounted mirror, and to varying degrees depending on where the mirror mounts. Bike mounted mirrors will be easier to look at since you can more easily focus on them with both eyes instead of largely just one as with head mounted mirrors. While riding in a straight line the mirror will always be pointed mostly behind you, but in turns they may point off to one side a little or a lot (the frame mounted mirror described below is the exception). Mounting points tend to be more secure than head mounted mirrors, however bike mounted mirrors have more of a propensity to stick out from the bike in some way. Hand in hand with that issue, bike mounted mirrors can be more of an obstruction than head mounted mirrors both in terms of getting in the way of your hands and in terms of getting knocked against things.

Bar end mount (flat bar)

These mirrors have a plug that fits into the end of your handlebar to secure it in place. Many sit up higher than the bar itself, though some models are inline for a cleaner look and less obstruction of the hand(s). These mirrors are typically the easiest to view of the bike mounted mirrors due to their height and the distance out from the bike and rider's body. The other edge to the blade is that they are likely the easiest to knock into something, and depending on their shape they can get in the way. Some models will fit both flat bars and drop bars.

Bar end mount (drop bar)

These mirrors work the same way bar end flat bar mirrors work and some models fit both bar styles. For the inline style as pictured above, you get some tradeoffs. The mirror is less obstructive and a little less likely to get bumped into things, but to view it you do have to take your eyes off the the road in front of you more so than with a mirror that sits up higher. Due to the fact that drop bars are narrower than typical flat bars you may end up looking at your leg or bike, especially when turning in the same direction as the side of the bike the mirror is mounted on.

Hood mount (drop bar)

There are a couple of different mounting options for this type of mirror- one for integrated shift/brake levers, and one for non integrated levers. Both manage to bring the mirror up higher and further away from the bike, giving you some of the advantages of a raised flat bar style mirror. For the non integrated style lever, these can be a good option if you have bar end shifters. The mirror will still be a little tighter in on the bike, and both types of mounting options run the risk of damaging the lever in the event of an impact.

Handlebar mount (clamp/strap style)

These typically have a plastic clamp, or a rubber or velcro strap to affix them to a handlebar. They are an option if you have no other available mounting points on your handlebars. On the other hand, chances are if all other spots are taken, you will have a hard time finding a place where this type of mirror won't be in your way.

Frame mount

This is a somewhat unusual option that mounts directly to the frame of the bike. It will always look directly behind your direction of travel, regardless of where the bars are pointed, and it obviously won't take up any room on your handlebars. This may be a good option for time trial and triathlon bikes where mounting options on the bars are virtually nonexistent. The biggest problem with this kind of mirror is that it is going to be very difficult to see around your legs as it sits in so tight to the bike. I have not used this type of mirror, but I believe there could be a slight risk with some configurations of knocking against the mirror when out of the saddle and climbing steep ascents.

Keep in mind that you may or may not find that any of these issues actually affect you. Preference is going to play a huge part in your decision. Most cycling mirrors are cheap so if you're unsure of what will work best for you, buy a couple of different styles and try them while you ride.


Converting Jamis Coda Comp from 8 speed to 10 speed?

Speaking just in terms of the mechanical aspects, it's usually fully doable. (The cost-effectiveness of such projects is often questionable at best, but it does depend.)

Potentially relevant ways that a hybrid frame can be different from a road frame of the sort those components would usually go on:

Large chainring clearance, ie on some hybridy frames you'd find a larger chainring would run into the right chainstay. In this case it starts out with a 48, so not likely to be an issue.  If any dealbreaker comes up with this kind of conversion, this is usually it.
135 rear spacing, not 130, putting the chainline out 2.5mm from what road cranks necessarily "expect." Usually this won't make a relevant difference, especially since chainstay length will be longer on a hybrid frame, which always mitigates some of the issues of suboptimal chainline. There are a lot of road disc bikes running around now with the same deal and it almost never makes any real difference, but there are some manufacturers (SRAM) that make a bunch of alternate spindle length road cranks for this reason.
FD cable routing. Some hybrid frames have their housing stops set up for top pull, which no road FDs natively accomodate. A clamp on seat tube pulley is usually the fix if its needed. I don't believe any generations of Codas are like this though.
FD barrel adjuster, or lack thereof. Road groups expect there to be one on the frame, which is usually not true of hybrid frames. The solution is to use an inline adjuster, which a lot of stock road bikes do now anyway.


The best thing to do is make your own studded tires from the old tires you have. You can buy roofing nails for very cheap, and put lots of studs on the tire (most commercially available studded tires don't have that many studs).

Push the nails through from the inside of the tire, wherever you want them. It's a good idea to put some on the rolling surface, and some on the sides for cornering. Once you have placed all your nails, put a layer (or two) of duct tape over the heads of the nails to protect the tube. You'll probably need to trim the nails down to the desired length with metal clippers. That's all there is to it!

EDIT: I have had luck with nails in the past, but on looking around at studded tire designs online, I realize that screws may in fact be a better option, as they will better resist backing out, and would be easier to replace. Scroll down on this page for DIY instructions.


In short yes.  I had a Judy on a 1997 Trek Y Five-o many years back.  80mm version if I remember correct.  That frame and fork used a 1 1/8 headset steerer which I assume your frame will also have.

Just make sure the steerer tube on the fork is compatible and aim for form travel between 80-100mm

Specs on the bike I had are here:

http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=1997&brand=Trek&model=Y+Five-0

I did not have the Manitou fork as indicated above I used a Judy


How to clean sweat-soaked handlebars/handlebar tape?

The salt from excessive sweating will corrode your headset bolts, bottle cage bolts, can corrode aluminum alloy in handlebars and can affect the paint on your frame. Riding outside on the road is less of an issue because sweat evaporates more easily and the force of the air rushing by keeps the sweat from settling easily. However, on a trainer, everything just runs right down off of you and on the bike and floor below. Sweat can build up on and under the bar tape if you let it. Google corroded handlebars, you'll find plenty of examples.

Replace the bar tape at least once a season, it will give you time to inspect the bars for any corrosion. It's most likely to happen where there are scratches in the anodized coating. In between rides, you can use a bit of water and tiny touch of dish soap to clean, be sure to rinse well.  Remember, use enough of water. You want to pull out the sweat and not let it build up there. The solution to pollution is dilution.

You can buy sweat guards which cover the headset and top tube to protect the other parts of your bike or you could just drape some towels. Additionally, a little lemon pledge furniture polish is a nice touch to keep your frame shiny and moisture resistant.


Recommended Folding Bike for Hybrid Commuting? (Bus/Car + Bike)

For those requirements I would be tempted to get a scooter. Our Jeff has a blog post up on that topic. For 1.5 miles a scooter is a useful compromise in the direction of "tiny but usable".

Otherwise if you want to try a folding bike just about anything cheap will do. This question compares two bikes at about $US200 each. For 2 mile trips it's not too important, and spending a lot of money for something that is better for other situations doesn't really help.

But for me, I'd rather pay a little more and get something that will be more versatile and last longer. For $300-$400 you can get an actual bicycle that fold and can be ridden (rather than a bicycle shaped object). Brands like Dahon are reasonable and cover the range from quite cheap ($US490) to slightly insane ($US2700+) and they're available worldwide (There are cheaper Dahons but they don't seem to be on that website - there's a single speed Boardwalk, but you have hills so it probably won't work). Further up the cost scale you get Brompton (folds small) and Birdy (rides well) as well as others. But $1000+, so hard to justify for your needs.

Most of the 20" wheel folding bikes go small enough to get them into the luggage space of a small car, but you may find that you can't get anything else in there at the same time. Smaller wheels (usually 16") generally mean the bike folds smaller but suspension becomes even more important. But again, not for a couple of miles each way. I suggest taking your car along to a shop that stocks a few folding bikes and having a play.

edit: given your size I doubt a cheap bike will last very long. They're just not built for it. I'm only 185cm/90kg and most folding bikes feel pretty flimsy to me. I suspect the Dahon Boardwalk D7 I linked to before is the least worst option under $500. To get really rigid at your size you'd need something like a Bike Friday or Airnimal.


We shy away from specific product recommendations, but the question is a decent one and it's impossible to answer without mentioning specific products. So, here goes.

I assume that "standard crank" means 5-arm cranks with a 110mm bolt circle diameter (BCDs). Many manufacturers are moving towards 4-arm cranks with 110mm BCDs, but their chainrings may not be mutually compatible. (FYI, I believe Shimano started this trend with Dura Ace 9000.)

Not Many Options for "Standard" Compact Cranks

110mm chainrings are limited in their minimum size. For 110mm BCDs, 33 teeth is generally the smallest you can get. This is due to the physical limits of how small a circle can fit to that diameter. TA and Stronglight, both French companies, make various chainrings down to 33t. The links go to one retailer in the US who sells them. If you are in the US, I am not sure if Quality Bicycle Products, which is a major distributor for cycling goods, can get these specific rings. Wickwerks makes a 41/33t cyclocross chainring set for 110mm 5-arm cranksets, but this combination may not be good for general purposes. In any case, it illustrates the fact that you generally cannot get chainrings smaller than 33 teeth on a standard 110mm crankset. I believe this only produces a 3.0% change in gain ratio.

Some readers may think of the Praxis Zayante 110mm 5-arm crankset, which comes with 48/32 chainrings, and wonder if my statement above is correct. It is. Praxis' note on their chainrings says that the 48-32 set is only compatible with their own crankarms. I don't recall the specific reason, but they may have done some custom machining to the rings or the crank spider to enable it to fit a 32t chainring. I read this in one of their site's technical documents.

Absolute Black do appear to make chainrings with effective gearing of 48/32 for any standard 5-arm 110mm BCD crankset. The catch is that they are oval. Not all users may like them, and it is more difficult to set up your front derailleur. There are some claimed performance advantages for oval chainrings, and I believe Chris Froome used or still uses them. However, these claims aren't clearly backed by research.

If you just meant to change the outer ring, then your problem is much easier. Standard cyclocross double gearing is 46/36 teeth, with some riders opting for an outer ring smaller than 46. These should be easier to find. However, I suspect you are looking for easier gears. This would entail searching for road sub-compact cranksets, as detailed below.

Sub-Compact Cranksets

If you are willing to change the crankset and bottom bracket, your options expand. The Praxis Zayante crankset described above is one option. There are a few more outlined here, some of which have 46/30 chainrings. However, again, many of these options will require a new bottom bracket. I am not aware of any specific options compatible with SRAM GXP bottom brackets.

As you already ride SRAM, I'm compelled to mention that the SRAM DUB 12-speed cranksets have a 46/33t chainring option, but they are very expensive and I believe they require SRAM's own DUB chain.

You'll Need Other Options

Everything on a bicycle is a compromise. If you need lower gears, a wider range cassette is an option. However, it may require you to change your rear derailleur. Not all riders may like the gaps between cogs in group rides: you need to match the group's pace at a cadence you find acceptable, and you may find yourself wanting something between cogs. This may be less of an issue on solo rides. I believe SRAM shifters don't support triple cranksets, and you will need to revert to 10s Shimano or Campagnolo groupsets. Campagnolo's older Athena 11s groupset, released around 2010, had a triple version, and new old stock parts may be available from some retailers.


How to you remove the seal from a Deore XT FH-M8000 freehub?

I would take the hub to your local bike repair shop. More than likely they will pull out a special tool just for this issue of your seal not wanting to unfasten itself.


How to identify whether a TRP Spyre mechanical disc brake is the post-recall version?

From the article
"Recalled calipers have a fastening screw with a hollow six-pointed star-shaped head with no markings on it and a 3 millimeter pad adjustment screw on the outward side."
Modern TRP SPyre calipers have one 3 millimeter pad adjustment screw on both sides and no star-shaped head.
From your article:

From modern shops:


You should use Shimano mountain bike shifters (Acera, Alivio, Deore, etc.) which have the same # of chainrings and same # of cogs on the cassette. So if you're running a triple in the front and a 9 speed cassette in the back, you want a 3x9 shifter set. The road bike ones (Sora, Tiagra, 105, Claris, Ultegra, etc. - even flat bar ones, like the Sora flat bars) will not work because they use different cable pull in the front.

You can't use SRAM shifters other than the SRAM Attack line (which are friction front, indexed rear, so you'll see the ones for a 3 x 9 setup just marketed as a 9 speed setup), since they have different cable pulls.

Microshift also make ones compatible with Shimano as well in the XE Marvo line (but I don't know anyone who has actually used a Microshift shifter on a mountain bike - usually its just their bar ends on a Surly road bike or similar).


If your grandson is that young, he's likely to have trouble keeping up with you no matter what bike he's riding. It may be that it's your expectations, not his bike, that should be modified.

It seems really unlikely that you could retrofit a derailleur onto his current bike. A frame that small won't have room for a wider rear-wheel assembly. Mounting rim brakes would be tough if the frame isn't already set up for it. Even if you did succeed, he'd still be driving it with eight-year-old legs and an eight-year-old's heart and lungs.

Might you consider a tagalong bike, mounted to your bike? Your grandson might balk at this if he's used to his own separate bike, but it would ensure that he keeps up with you.


Is it normal that the Abus Bordo folding lock rattles?

This is a late answer I know, but I've found a solution to the rattling problem. I've had an Abus 6500 for nearly 3 years now and the rattling always annoyed me. I used to wrap a kind of nylon strap between the lock as I folded it and that partly solved it, although most of the rattle was coming from the joints themselves. It was only just today when I thought of this: I sprayed some chain oil, the type that comes in a spray can, into the joints, between the bars. As you may know, this oil is very liquid when sprayed but soon solidifies as the solvent evaporates. This allows it to get right into the joint and GREATLY reduce rattle. There is inevitably some that runs onto the parts you need to touch so a bit of cleaning up afterwards is necessary but the result for me is just astounding. I just wish I'd thought of it 3 years ago!


Can I take my bike on the New York City subway or buses?

Bicycles are allowed on the subways at all times, but the MTA suggests against taking your bike on the subway during rush hour.

  Bicycles are permitted on Subway trains at all times. However, we strongly recommend that cyclists avoid boarding crowded rush hour trains.

Folding bicycles are permitted on all trains and busses except for express busses. Once folded, a bicycle is really no larger than most other luggage.

When taking bicycles on the train, be courteous and use common sense. Don't bring a bicycle into a car that's too crowded. Let people out before getting in. Don't block the doors, keep control of your bike so it doesn't roll into anyone when the train starts or stops, and be aware of when people need to get by. I only ever take my bike on a train if there's enough room for everyone to sit; if it's crowded enough that people have to stand, it might be getting too crowded for a bike.

For more tips, see the MTA Bicycle Safety tips and the detailed rules on when you can bring a bicycle on the train.


Rear wheel is not locking when I am braking

If you have mechanical brakes the most likely answer is that you brakes simply need adjusting or the pads need replacing.

Cable stretch and pad wear result in having to pull the lever further to move the pads onto the rim or rotor, eventually the lever hits the bar before sufficient pressure is exerted by the pads for effective braking.

If you have hydraulic brakes things are different as they are self-adjusting. In this case you most likely have air bubbles in the fluid and the brakes need to be bled.

If your brakes are adjusted properly, pad or rotor contamination could be the problem. Although it seems unlikely that both brakes got contaminated (unless you did something to both brakes that contaminated them).

There are plenty of videos and articles available that will show you how to adjust brakes. They are not hard to find.


How to lock up a bike with a rear wheel lock?

Living in a country where this is the standard bike lock I have learned to work with it.

For a short stop where the bike is at little risk or while getting your second lock out, always lock this lock as soon as stopped.
Then you get a second lock out, U-lock, a cable or chain as per your choice or your insurance requirements or a combination of those.

As the rear wheel is locked to the frame, you can now select to use your second lock for the front wheel to the frame and both to a fixed point.
Or you can get a cable to be locked into your ring lock, either as a separate entrance to the lock for which the lock has its special hole, or one with a loop to go round the locking pin. And use that to fix the bike to a fixed point when you chose to lock the front wheel to just the frame.

I have always chosen a separate cable lock (when insurance allowed) or a chain to connect the frame to a fixed point, but my bike is not as valuable and always one of many where parked.
For a valuable bike I would likely use a good quality U-lock, a good quality fixed point and use that to lock the front wheel and frame.
If no good quality fixed point is available, I would not leave the bike there.


How to close a chain when the pin was broken

you could consider buying a quick link aka missing link from shimano, removing half a chain link (the one in which the broken off pin is located) and installing the quick link in its place. Alternatively if shortening the chain by just a bit is an option you could consider removing the chain link in which the broken off pin is located and reattaching the chain using a new pin from shimano (you can buy them separately from shimano; search for shimano chain pin).

alternatively you could try pushing the original pin which is currently inserted most of the way in using some water pump pliers and pushing the last section in using a chain tool.


Disc brake rotor size and forks strength

My guess is its not so much about the forks themselves breaking - I cannot imagine that sort of force can be generated by brakes when the forks themselves have to handle the forces generated in prangs etc that would easily exceed any braking forces..... Yep - forks break in a bad prang, but no one would buy forks that did not survive a moderate fall without damage

The failure point is most likely the mounting posts, or the wheel being loosened or even ejected by the brakes on a QR system (well known issue and one argument for through axles).

However, the idea that bigger disks give more braking and bigger forces is overly simplistic. A cheap setup with 200mm discs ridden by a 100pound wimp will not produce the same force as a top quality 160mm disc ridden by a guy with the weight and strength of a gorilla.....

I believe its most likely the manufactures covering themselves and weasel words to get out of warranty claims from guys who buy cheap shocks, put on the biggest brakes they can find and ride them on the biggest drops they can find - and then claim "It broke.......". The kind of guys that do this would not be seen dead on a bike with small discs.....


cannondale cadd10 105 crankset replacement

BB30 is Cannondale's (now open) standard for how the crankset fits into the frame.

Cannondale invented the BB30 bottom bracket in 2000 and debuted it at the Tour De France (I couldn't find any information about how they faired) in 2006 the BB30 became an free international standard allowing any cycle manufacturer to use it.

  The BB30 International Standard provides the specifications for an oversized bottom bracket shell for a bike frame. This standard allows for Direct-fit, pressed-in bearings and a 30 mm spindle. The system saves weight by accepting a 30mm aluminum spindle and eliminating cups that would normally hold the bearings.

The claimed advantage of BB30 is an increase in stiffness and a 4% increase in drivetrain efficiency, achieved through an increase in size allowing larger diameter frame tubes. (according to Cannondale - I don't have the rep to comment!)

The Caad10 uses 110 BCD 5 arm chainring, if you put that into your favourite search engine there are a large selection of chainrings that will be compatible. You don't specifically need to replace them with the same size chainring, you can change them depending on your requirements.

The Shimano 105 chainrings should be a direct replacement, and are relatively inexpensive. Personally I wouldn't try to straighten an old chainring, as the metal would have stretched and you are unlikely to get it back to being entirely flat.


Need help choosing my chainring and size whilst moving from 3x7 to 1x7

what chainring size would anyone recommend?

We can't answer that directly, as we don't know anything about you or the riding you want to do, however, we can help you figure it out.

Start by riding exclusively in the middle ring. Can you do all the riding you want to do using that chainring? If it feels too low, try riding exclusively in the big ring. If that feels too high pick a new ring size between the two. If the middle ring feels too high do the same experiment with the small ring.

What you may also conclude is that you just don't have enough gear range with a 7 speed cassette and you should stick with the triple crank.


In normal times, I would advise you to visit a bike shop and get fitted by the staff. Of course, these are not normal times. It would still be worth talking on the phone to a local shop and seeing what they can do for you and what they'd recommend.

It sounds like you've got a long torso. This can be accommodated by seat setback, stem length, and handlebar reach, although those will affect other aspects of your fit and the bike's handling.

If there are specific bikes you're interested, check the manufacturers' websites to see what their fitting guidance is. There are some bike manufacturers that direct-ship to consumers (and more are doing so during the C19 crisis). They usually don't build to order to accommodate fit, although I've seen one or two that do.

Road and gravel bikes are sized by what you might call the virtual seat-tube length (I think hybrids are the same, but less sure). This is the distance from the center of the bottom bracket to a point extrapolated from the seat tube where it intersects a horizontal line extended from the top of the head tube (this is a throwback to when bikes had horizontal top tubes). And usually, the seat-tube length will be ⅔ your inseam; hybrids will probably express this in inches and gravel bikes probably in cm. So you'd probably take a 60/61 cm bike (frames are mostly sized in even-numbered increments), which is big.


Bottom Bracket terminology - English BB, SM-BBR60 BSA, English 68mm, ISO/English & BB30 confusion

Honestly I would try to get in touch with the company further, as their explanation of the bottom bracket makes no sense. And as is often the case with these companies, some things get lost in translation.

Bottom Bracket Standards

This could be a mile long explanation, so I'm only going to address the two in question here: BB30 and BSA. A couple good articles are here and here. The first one gives a nice little history of why the ^&%$@ we have to try to understand so many different standards.

English

This, I would have to assume is referring to British/BSC/BSA (acutally in some places on DengFu's website they refer to it as BSA and others as English). As explained by Sheldon Brown:

  B.S.A. (Birmingham Small Arms) was a major British manufacturer of firearms, and later of bicycles and motorcycles. It reached its peak in the 1920's. The standard thread sizes that B. S. A developed for its bicycles were ultimately adopted as the standard British (B.S.C.) sizes, which, in turn, were mostly adopted by the I.S.O.

So BSA is actually a thread pitch/diameter standard of 1.37"x24tpi for bottom brackets. This thread pitch is found in several widths (68/73/83mm and probably more) for bottom brackets, which describe "English" Bottom brackets. It also applies to things like freewheel and headset threading.

BB30

BB30 is a standard that was created by Cannondale to help create stiffer bottom bracket/crank interfaces. It utilizes a 30mm spindle (vs 24mm for shimano hollowtech II/GXP/FSA MegaEXO/etc). You may visit this page and click accept to view the (now open) patent. The frame must be 41.960±0.025mm in diameter and be 68.0±0.2mm wide at the bottom bracket. Effectively a standard 'English' BB shell but larger diameter with no threads cut. Also, do not confuse this with PF30 - BB30 has bearings directly in the frame that rest against a retainer clip.

This Frame...

Looking at the photos of the frame, this is definitely a pressfit bottom bracket as photographed, which would rule out English/BSA. Why they would ever say English/BB30 is beyond me. I'm leaning towards there was some translation issues and/or some confusion on the part of the person writing the web page. It is not uncommon to receive something that is not quite what you expected when you buy things like this direct from overseas. I would definitely try to get in touch with them further to confirm exactly what is going on.

BB30 to HollowtechII/GXP/MegaEXO/etc (24mm spindles)

If it is BB30, what are your options? As far as I know Shimano doesn't make a BB30 compatible bottom bracket. This would be a bottom bracket with 42mm OD bearings x 24mm ID. Here's a few options in order of my preference:

Probably your best bet in this particular case is something like this adapter from FSA, although I don't have any experience with them as far as reliability. This would allow you to choose a standard BSA bottom bracket with the component package and actually be able to install in the frame.

Praxis makes a bottom bracket that would work. As well as Rotor. I feel this is preferable if you weren't already forced to buy a BSA bottom bracket as having less parts floating around is generally more reliable.

Wheels MFG makes lots of cool stuff in the USA and they make delrin adapters that will reduce the ID of a BB30 bearing to 24mm (hollowtech II). Probably less desirable in your case, as then your hollowtech II bottom bracket is useless and you have to buy a BB30 bottom bracket.

Also, press in bottom brackets require bearing presses and can be pretty tricky. Usually not tools that the home mechanic has around.

once again: I would strongly suggest getting in touch with these folks before buying anything. The lack of clarity is really not confidence inspiring. Maybe they do offer the frame in two different BB options, but that doesn't seem particularly likely to me.


Coded gesture for "I am looking for a place to stop"

I have this same problem on a couple of local descents.

There isn't signal that communicates what you want to say, clearly and succinctly.  Anything you try and do will take at least a hand off the bars and reduce your overall stability at speed.

Here's some options:

What you can do is stop pedalling, and pull to the side of the road so there is as much space available for the vehicle to pass.  THEN its up to the driver of the vehicle to decide if its safe to pass or not.   A car will need some hundreds of metres of clear space if they have to cross the centerline so don't bother if you're anywhere near an upcoming corner.
In fact if you're getting close to a corner, its sometimes better to clearly take the lane by shoulder-checking and then moving into the lane. This stops anyone from passing you in a dangerous way.
If I absolutely needed to show I was slowing to allow a pass, I'd probably do something like pull to the side as far as possible, maybe unclip my outside pedal and have both legs straight down.   If the shoulder was wide enough I would be very much off the roadway.  Downside is most hillsides lack in road shoulders so there's not a lot of space.  You can also try to look at the following driver and establish an eye contact - but they might think you're simply challenging them or something.
Lastly, another physical way to show you're stopping is to straighten your arms, lower your torso, and get off the saddle.     This will put your backside backward, and is a pretty clear indication that you're braking hard.  Mostly visible to other riders, someone in a car might not perceive it as clearly.

In some places, the painted centerline may stop the vehicle from being allowed to pass, so you might be wasting your time if the road is narrow.

Your other options are to get going faster, or to time your descent so it starts at the end of a car column with a space behind you.  This can be aggravating if the line of cars is slower than your descent.

HOWEVER...

At all times be safe on a descent.  Don't feel you have to push and outride your comfort zone/speed.  There's a lot of kinetic energy when descending, and if that transforms into friction or a sudden stop, then its a bad day.


Upgrading from a freewheel type to cassette type

You need same number of speeds, same cog spacing and freehub body splines splines. If you don't have any specific need to change the range, you can pick the same sizes. If you want to change the range, there are plenty of answers about that on this site.

For cog spacing and splines, there are two common ones for 8-speed: one for Campagnolo and other for Shimano and everything else. Unless you have a road bike with Campagnolo, you can just pick any 8-speed cassette that is not advertised as Campagnolo compatible.


Probably Screwed up my Derailleur shifting from 1-6 without pedaling

Sounds like one of four possibilities.

1) Pulling on the shifter has bent the derailleur - very unlikely unless you're a gorilla or the derailleur was already bent/weak

2) Your gear cable outer is weak somewhere and the extra tension has caused it to collapse, which effectively makes the inner longer than it should be.

3) (was 2b) Your shifter was weak and has bent or the number indicator has moved/bent.

4) (was 3) Most likely, you've stretched or pulled the cable through the adjustment bolt on the derailleur mechanism.

Hang the bike up on a repair stand, or use rope/cable/something to lift the back wheel clear of the ground.  Use your hand to slowly pedal and pull the exposed gear inner wire with your other hand while pedalling.  The gears should change like normal, through the full range.  If this works, then the inner wire is too long and needs some slack pulled through the adjustment bolt on the derailleur.

See "four rear derailler adjustments" section at http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html   for details on that.


Main gain is less friction when using ceramic ones and less friction on the transmission when using up to 15T pullies. This translates into couple of watts after a big number of km's.

If you are into pro racing or you are a really weight weenie or you just have money to burn, then you can go and change both pullies if you want to. From several studies, at very high performance you inded gain some power from using larger pullies, but that is really almost irrisory and only really valuable at really high performance levels, say pro riders at Tour de France, Vuelta, Giro, etc. Other than that, ceramic ones have less friction so is supposed to save you some watts on long rides, which translates on some miliseconds on the clock after couple hundred km's.

If you check prices, good ones are up to 400 usd...so, what you will do, change pullies or fully upgrade your transmission? I'll go for the 2nd option ;)


Is there a good way to clean brake hoods?

I have been using "Foaming Bathroom Cleaner" aka Scrubbing Bubbles and an old toothbruth for about two years with good results. I can't say anything about the long term results as it's only been two years. Your case might be tougher as I think the biggest tip is to clean them before the dirt gets really ground in.


looking at your bike, which I basically see as a alu-105 setup (albeit a good setup, Felts are lovely bikes), I can suggest a few things but right away I'll say I don't think there is a "magic bullet". In no particular order:

wheels, as you say. On a lot of low-to-mid-range bikes, you just need to look at what wheelset they have to realise that this is where the manufacturer is keeping costs down. Obviously this goes away as you climb the range but whichever way you look at it, the better the wheels, the more expensive they are. For example I upgraded my wheels last year, but the ones I got cost me 50% of what I paid for the bike, over 1000GBP. (In fact I started off with near enough the same question as you just asked, and this was my answer.) So, relatively speaking, a lot. However, purely performance-wise, this is probably one of the best upgrades you could do. As with most things cycling, you're paying for lightness and aerodynamics.
groupset. Your bike has 105 components, you could always upgrade your components to Ultegra.  (I'm thinking specifically of the 10-speed mechanical Ultegra rather than the 11-speed or electronic versions here.) The plus side here is that you can do this in a piecemeal manner, so they will fit to your budget/timeframe, the downside is that these parts work out a lot more expensive if bought separately than they would if they came on a new bike. That's just down to economies of scale. A further possible downside is that you won't notice much difference! 105 ain't a bad groupset.
keep saving until you can upgrade the frame itself. You always have the option to go carbon.
how much are you interested in the actual mechanics of your bike? In terms of maintenance, for example. Some people hand their bikes off to the bike shop, other people do things themselves (or would like to). If you're in the latter category, a decent tool set perhaps? Plus of course this type of "upgrade" would last you for life.
lastly not so much the bike itself but peripheral stuff like getting good clipless pedals, if you don't already have them, more comfy shoes etc. Perhaps, if it turns you on, a gps-enabled trip computer. Personally I love the "data" aspect, and a Garmin 800 was top of my "next cycling purchase" list for a very long while, of course it doesn't make me any better a cyclist but to be able to look at all my rides retrospectively certainly adds to my enjoyment. Perhaps also smaller bike parts such as a better saddle etc. Obviously there are no big bangs here, but if you're budget-driven....

I think which, if any, of these you choose is ultimately going to be down to how you see yourself using your bike going forward. Are you wanting to get faster? ride longer? go touring? compete? etc. etc. etc.

Likewise you could look at every suggestion and decide that none of them is worth it.


The pros you see on the videos set their saddle depending on the DH course. If the course has a lot of possibilities for pedalling and not many drops - set it high, so on flat sections they can rest their bum on the seat and give it a full pedalling power.

If the course is rough and steep - no racer will have the seat high. So you should do. You know what you are riding, you know that you are going to do drops - set the seat low.

And leaning back is not always wrong. As long as you don't overdo it and don't send yourself flipping backwards. It all takes practice and time.

If on the drop you let your suspension handle it all and keep your legs straight - at some point suspension will bottom out and shock through your straight legs will go into your spine. And that is a direct ticket to spinal injury.

So the best is to learn to to do a bit of both - work your legs and let the suspension do  work as well. If you feel that the landing is going to be rough - move yourself to the side a bit, protect your groin, take the hit with your thigh. You might crash in that case, but your kids will be happier -)

And one more thing, in DH drops to flat higher than 5 feet are very rare and are considered dangerous. It's not trails for you, where guys carefully absorb 10ft flat-drop with their whole body. On the other hand, drops to transition do require different technique (comparing to drop to flat) and give less stress on a bike and a rider.


how do i stop my Formula disk brakes from squealing

Short answer is don't throw out you brakes just yet and a different material MIGHT make the squealing stop.

What you are experiencing is quite typical. Mine are really bad sometimes if they are wet or have dust on them. A few max effort stops fixes it. Steps to address, in a rough order based on cost and hassle factor, and no guarantee of success...

Find a nice steep down hill and do a half dozen or more max effort stops from the fastest speed to can get up to. (safety warning bla bla bla). If that does not work, repeat after emptying you water bottle over the disc.
Realign the brake calipers
Clean the discs with meths/white petrol etc

if you can be bothered trying it, 'burn' the pads
polish the discs and pads with a very fine (400 or 600) wet and dry sand paper

Replace the pads with Organic ones.
Replace the disc rotors
I'm out of suggestion, buy some ear plugs......


It's the plastic wheels.  Most mag(composite or plastic) wheels are only rated for 40 psi, no matter what the tire says.  No need to change out for metal wheels as long as you are happy with the trailer.


replacing stolen rear wheel. compatability question

The 7-speed cassette standard has been functionally discontinued for new wheels.  Most new wheels come in 8-10 or 8-11 speed compatibility.  Since the 7-speed cassette bodies were shorter, you can install a 7-speed cassette on a 8-speed body using a 4mm spacer behind the cassette.  Alternatively, as you said, you can use the 7 shifter on an 8 cassette, you'll just have to tune out one of the gears with the limiters and cable tension.


Chromoly can rust. Aluminum usually doesn't unless you're riding in the ocean. Cheapest fix is probably some automotive touch-up paint; sand / clean the area (scuff the surrounding paint up a little), apply a coat, wet sand, repeat. Won't be perfect but it'll protect the underlying metal from rusting.

Of course, if you want that perfect "unblemished" look you're probably going to have to plump for a professional (read: take your bike completely apart, sandblast frame, re-paint, put all components back on). Unless you're looking for an excuse to get a completely amazing custom paint job. At which point I'd recommend finding a good powder coat shop; my mountain bike's (chromoly frame) is powder coated and has held up really, really well over the years.


How many spacers I can put on a Shimano hollowtec 2 BB for a 68 mm BB shell

On M542 crank set and 68 mm BB shell, I use one spacer on the left, and 2 on the right.

I think that on 68 mm shells you always use all 3 spacers, and distribute them on the left/right side to get chain line you need.


The part is called simply brake adjuster or brake adjusting barrel or "bremszugeinsteller" in the promised land of affordable mail order. It is indeed held in place only by pressure from cable and is easily lost when the cable is removed. In the picture the nut is put on wrong side to hold the adjuster in place without cable, I have never seen a second nut like on the right before.


Jan Ullrich's TT bike in la Vuelta 1999: why the bigger rear wheel?

The rear wheel is normal size (700), the front wheel is smaller (650). It was for aerodynamic reasons. By lowering the torso of the rider, the frontal surface of the rider became smaller.
The configuration appeared first in triathlon and was later banned by the UCI in road and track events. Both wheels must now be of identical size i.e. 700.


I work for a distributor that sells several brands of winter studded tires and everyone of them comes with this warning, this particular one is from Schwalbe

  In order to ensure that spikes are permanently fixed, tires should be run in for about 25 miles (40km) on asphalt, while avoiding any fast acceleration or heavy braking.

Source

With this said i don't think there is any physical means to tell that they have been ridden far enough. More so 25 miles/40km is likely on the safe side.

Here is the reason why they recommend the same for studded car tires and im quite certain the process is similar with bike tires.

  Looking like carpenter nails with their shafts cut short before being inserted headfirst into the tire, winter studs are made by encasing a tungsten carbide pin into a cylindrical metal housing. Typically 80 to 100 studs per tire are inserted into small holes molded in the tire's tread design. The tread is often lubricated (a 2% soapy water solution is desired) to facilitate installation. A special tool spreads the rubber and inserts the stud into the bottom of the hole. Once the stud is in place, the tool is removed and the tread rubber compresses around the stud's flat head and cylindrical housing to hold it in place.

  Because it takes some time for the lubricant to evaporate and the
  tread rubber to compress around the stud, studded tires require a
  special break-in period. This will allow the lubricant to
  evaporate and the tread rubber to conform to the shape of the stud.

Source

There is also a form of lubrication used when the tire are initially molded that remains on the surface of the tire for a period of time until worn off, this lubricant makes little difference to asphalt or dirt but as you can imagine on ice or snow it can make things a bit more slippery as it further reduces the friction coefficient.

  Before tires are cured, a release lubricant is often applied to prevent the tires from sticking in the mold. Unfortunately, some of the lubricant stays on the surface of the tires, and traction is reduced until it is worn away.


Put your torque wrench on something else to get a feel for how much force you need to apply to the tool you have, then do your best. My cynical take is that anyone who can't make their gizmo compatible with a torque wrench has no right to expect accurate torque.

Looking at their website the key does seem to have a square-drive option if you take it apart. I screen-shotted their zoomed view to get this:

If you're lucky that axle will be removable, either because it's got an allen head and can be unscrewed, or it pushes out. It might be a destructive removal so maybe do that to a spare key.

Once you have the square-ish head exposed I expect you'll be able to find a socket that fits it for your torque wrench. Those 12-slot sockets are designed to take square or hex bolt heads, and this is one of the few times with a modern bolt that you'll actually use that feature :)

I'd be doing that anyway because that key is just obnoxiously large to carry everywhere (which you have to do if you want to be able to put on a new tube).


Are there classes for learning how to cycle for exercise?

I would check with your local bike shops and clubs, there are lots of cycling "coaches" out there that will tell you exactly what you should be doing to get the most out of it. Essentially the personal trainers of the bike world.

I would also recommend doing some reading on optimal heart rate and zones. Coaches and classes can be expensive but if you read up on it you can do a lot of the same with a cycling computer and heart rate strap. However you may find that joining a "no drop" group ride could be equally beneficial as a starting point as they will offer advice as well.

Also, less related but I see you're in GA but down here in TX, we just started getting these places called Cyclebar ( http://cyclebar.com ) They play loud music and have and instructor and lighting effects, but they also track every aspect of your workout and can custom tailor it so that you get the most out of your training. All while in a group similar to a spin class but in the atmosphere of a club or bar(minus the drinking :P) They are suppose to be really fun and a good work out. I have yet to try it myself but it has definitely intrigued me.


brief pain and swelling in hips during intense movement

I'm with Batman in that you should contact a medical professional. This sounds way too serious to trust to what some random people on the internet say. However, if cost is an issue there I can make some suggestions about some things you can do to prevent some common bike-related injuries in the future (after you see a professional or did something else to get rid of it).

Did I already say you should really see a professional? This isn't normal at all, and really sounds like something you should have checked.
Get your bike set-up properly. Go to a local bike shop to some help, or google around for something like this. Note that it is very much possible that your bike is too small or too large for you, in which case there is nothing to do but get a bike better suited to your size.
Fast or heavy pedaling? You should use your gears! Optimal pedaling frequency is around 80-100 rotations/min. Lower than 60 puts a serious strain on your joints. If you can actually produce useful force above 140 I applaud you but that speed is also inefficient and strenuous. Try to change gears more often, if you need to go lower or higher than you can regularly then get lighter and/or heavier gears.
Did you recently increase the amount of cycling you do? Though mostly a low-impact sport cycling can still cause injuries, and you should increase your workload slowly over several weeks or months depending on your age.
Seriously, go see a professional.


What are some good trail foods for long rides in mountainous terrain?

I realize this thread is old, but I'll share my experience:

I compete in major marathon races (4+ hours) and finish in the top 30% (at worst).

For 4-5 hours of trail riding (not racing) I usually pack a banana, and apple, and 1/2 of a peanut butter and honey sandwich. I eat every hour(ish). Usually the banana first (to help block lactic acid build up late in the ride), the sandwich in the middle (protein and some slow - peanut butter, and quick - honey, energy). I eat the apple at the end (last 30-45 minutes) for quick energy, plus they're wet.

Your body can't really process a large amount of calories during a ride that short, and certainly not from complex food sources. I try to keep my food sources natural, so as to not end up with gastric distress of some sort (which will kill your body's ability to output).

For racing, I wouldn't eat anything other than a banana or two during a 4-5 hour race. Most food (non-fruit) is going to take 4-6 hours for it to really be usable by your body, and the chance of gastric distress isn't worth it. In the second half of a race, I'll probably kill a energy gel of some sort every 30 minutes or so.

I always try to eat something sensible (and in a reasonable, non-oversize portion) about 2-2.5 hours before I go for a big ride.

The MOST IMPORTANT thing for prolonged riding is hydration. Going hypoglycemic is not nearly as easy to do as making yourself dehydrated. Once your cells are dehydrated, they don't function at 100% regardless of how much fuel is available to burn. If you ride for a long time, you will become dehydrated. Keep hydrated all the time, and pay a lot of attention to your water intake for the several days preceding a long ride.

I'm sure there is a PHD that will give you a better answer (or 2 PHDs that will give you 2 similar, but not totally in agreement, answers), but I try to keep it pretty simple without trying to become a PHD myself.

Drink water (I use the skratch labs hydration mix.), eat food your grandma recognizes (I'm not suggesting Ensure!), and go have some fun!


How did my stolen carbon frame bike get from D.C. to Guatamala?

There is a large community of people from or born to people from Central America that live in the DC area. The largest group has ties to El Salvador. The percentage of Latinos from Mexico is only about 5%.  The is a also large presence from Peru as well.  Peruvian rotisserie chicken is very good.

MS 13 has a significant presence in Northern Virginia and DC and that gang has ties to Guatemala.  It isn’t surprising that a nice stolen bike would show up there.

Guatemala also has the highest murder rate in the world so I wouldn’t go looking for it.


Personally, no, I have not had any problems w/ carbon fibre mountain bikes. I am currently on my 5th such steed (Trek Fuel EX 9.8) and it is going quite well. My thumb ... not so well. But, that's besides the point. Of note ... I weigh 145 lbs and ride the bike for what it is meant.
I have seen many broken carbon frames. Like wise I have seen many broken aluminium frames as well. Typically when I see a broken frame it is caused by many of the same things.

a)Riding a bike outside of its comfort range. If you have a 26" carbon fibre hardtail, do not think it would work for jumps or all mountain riding. You will break it. Don't take your 4" travel carbon race bike to the downhill course either. Use common sense.

b)Maintain your bike. Use a torque wrench and carbon prep. Check linkages. Keep it clean. Those who don't tend to see things (or miss things ...) break with greater frequency.

Scratch depth has alot to do with this. A simple scratch ... no, it doesn't render it useless. I have many scratches on many carbon bikes. I have paint chips etc... and they are still a-okay. What I would be aware of is a 'scratch' on the handlebar that could result in stress risers and eventual breakage. Again, this goes back to my points above concerning maintenance. Regular maintenance (of any bike) is key.
There are also advances in carbon that companies are indicating have created a much stronger frame. The following are two I am familiar with but I am SURE there are more.

http://origin.trekbikes.com/us/en/story/fuel_ex/technology

Cannondale has 'Ballistec Hi-Mod' carbon which I believe is supposed to be similar.

OCLV is just another way of 'laying up' carbon. I have had many OCLV bikes and have enjoyed them immensely. I am sure I would have enjoyed a monocoque frame or a mitred frame as well. In my mind it is the companies warranty that matters most. Will they stand behind you if the frame fails from reasonable riding? In my experience, yes, Trek will. But, I'm not here to push Trek. Buying a well known frame, with a strong warranty from a shop you know will go to bat for you is what I would recommend.
In regards to carbon lay up, yes, it does matter. The ability to strategically lay the carbon (or in terms of the new BMC Impec weave the carbon) allows engineers to create strength where strength is needed and to remove weight were less material is necessary. It can be likened to the 'butting' of steel, aluminium and titanium frames.

Sorry for the Trek angle throughout this but as the question regarded OCLV and I have experience with both, it was inevitable.


It looks a lot like this Armstrong

The seat stay bolted to the seat tube may be one difference.
Based on the conversation in the thread...

this model is a 1953 so the rear hub tells me

If your bike does have a Sturmey Archer three speed hub you may be able to date the bike by the markings on the hub.
Hub Date Marks – How Old Is Your Sturmey Archer Hub?

Hubs after World War 2
From 1947 to 2000 Sturmey Archer clearly marked their hubs with a date. This hub date marking will show the last two figures of the year and the month.

The article goes on to explain how to date older SA hubs.
Here is the 1950 Armstrong catalog.
This picture looked to me like a good match

Three speeds and dynamo hubs were offered as an option
Other Armstrong catalogs


Good luck - there's a very high probability noone noted the serial number, or registered it anywhere that you can search.  Giant themselves might be able to tell you what shop sold it, but whether they kept records or not, who knows.

Your other option is to report it to the local police station as "found property" and after a month if the owner doesn't claim it then its yours legally.  We scored a nice tent that way that blew into our yard once, fully assembled but never pegged to the ground.

You can assume its probably not repainted, so is a Blue bike from new.

I'd agree with your reading of the digits.  Possibly the first character is a C or a Q or maybe an O, but the rest look exactly right.   G for Giant might make a lot of sense too.