As mikes indicated, the chemicals in your top coat reactivated your primer coat, much like if you were to write something in sharpie, it is dry to the touch, but if you were to wipe alcohol over it it would smear.

I use aerosol cans for a lot of different types of painting, and unfortunately drips are often impossible to remove without a lot of sanding or starting over. The best method is to avoid them in the first place with good technique. I realize this sounds a bit arrogant but correcting them often leads to more issue and the clear coat not laying smooth.

You can wait for them to dry, sand the entire area or tube smooth and start over. Don't only sand the area of the drip or you will get an uneven surface.

As they say in the autobody world, paint is 90% prep and 10% skill. When using rattle cans it also helps to let the cans sit in warm/hot water for several minutes before use. This allows the internal temp to rise and allows the paint to atomize more efficiently. You may also find "artists" paints used for graffiti murals don't drip as easily and they are very heavily pigmented and a bit thicker paint. Brands as an example would be, Belton Molotow, Montana, Loop, and Flame amongst others.

Also when sanding large areas or tubes, you should not hand sand as your fingers push at different pressures making the sanding stroke uneven, this can be remedied by using an electric sander, block or something similar, ive also found for round tubes a thick cloth or towel behind the strip of sand paper works well for pulling around a circular shape, the cloth helps prevent the sandpaper from tearing and gives nice even pressure.

Good Luck!


I cannot comment on derailleurs in general, just my own experience.

My retro ride is 35 years old, and in that time I've ridden it about 150,000 km. It has Campagnolo Record derailleurs, and both are fine. Shifting is still good with the downtube shifters. The parallelogram is rock solid.

I cannot claim to have maintained it especially well. It's only had about 10 chains and clusters in that time.

Observing the milage of others, I think the main end of life event is a crash. Some people do seem to wear the jockey wheels, perhaps due to running lower quality chains.

My conclusion is that it all depends on the initial quality. We get what we pay for.


What should I plan for on a sea-to-summit ride on Mauna Kea, Hawaii?

I think this long post by Martin Hoff also indicated by jurgemaister in a comment tells you everything you need. You can find some more info in the comments on individual attempts people did of the segment on strava. The main takeaways I got from the article are:

You need two bikes (a road bike and a mountainbike) or a dirt-road suitable bike.
You optimally have a support vehicle driving along with you for food/drinks/extra clothing/emergencies/the way down/nice pictures/the second bike.
If support isn't an option you need to pack for a really long hard day in both winter and summer climates. Even if you are very fit. Use panniers mounted on your bike, a backpack carrying enough stuff will probably break you.
Mauna Keau tops out at over 4K above sea level. How fit will you be up there? How used are you to high altitudes? Altitude sickness might be an issue, strenuous activity will certainly be very hard.
You need low gearing for the steepest part. Install a mountainbike crank-set.
If you take one bike you probably want knobbly tires on it.


Bad data, no question whatsoever. Muscle fatigue develops quite rapidly, but even so there is minimal decrease in power for at least a handful of seconds. (Indeed, even the fitted curve you've shown seems to be in error, likely as a result of the way GC's fitting algorithm will chase "noise".)


You can’t actuate a coaster brake with a brake leaver/cable, if that’s what you are asking.
You’ll have to install a normal, hand actuated brake and brake lever.
Apart from coaster brakes there are generally two types of brakes: Rim brakes and disc brakes. For rim brakes your frame will need rim brake mounting points and your wheel needs a rim with braking surface. For disc brakes you need a frame with disc brake mounting points and your wheel needs a disc brake hub.
For brakes with cables (i.e. not hydraulic), cable stops welded to the frame would be nice but a continuous cable housing works as well.
It’s quite likely your frame has mounting points for rim brakes. If you are lucky your wheel also has a rim with braking surfaces.


Does the superman style have any chance to be seen in competition?

I really doubt it. A number of problems pop into my head immediately.

Corners.
French/Italian/Spanish road surfaces.
Holding your legs up long enough to be worth it.
I'm pretty sure this video is staged.

Chris Froome caused a stir this year at the Tour just sitting on his top tube and that looked sketchy enough at 100kmh, twitchy and uncomfortable.


Old bike compatibility with direct train bike trainer?

The trainer has a standard Shimano freehub body. It is not advertised, but it is entirely possible to install a 7-speed cassette and use spacers to compensate for the cassette width difference. For even lower number of cogs, you use cogs from a cassette and install the cogs with extra spacers to match the spacing on your current cassette or freewheel.

The other problem is axle width. Modern road bikes have 130mm real axle, and older ones 126mm. You have to either spread your frame a bit or ask Wahoo if the axle width can be adjusted.


Why did Shimano eliminate the B tension spring on the latest rear derailleurs?

There are no recent Shimano rear derailers without b-tension (angle) adjustment, other than maybe very bottom-end ones, but there are many where the look and location of it is different from older (namely pre-Shadow) models. RD-M8000 absolutely has a b-tension screw, although in the exploded view document they call it an "End Adjust Bolt" for no good reason.

Here is my understanding of the design goals and tradeoffs involved with sprung upper pivots:

The one and only reason you would want a sprung upper pivot is to maintain chain wrap and pulley/cog distance when shifting in front on a derailer where the guide pulley and cage pivot are offset (as opposed to coaxial as on most current MTB derailers, and including M8000). If you can make the cage pivot and the guide pulley coaxial, there is no movement of the pulley as the cage moves from shifting the front derailer. The reason for wanting the offset also has to do with getting sufficient chain wrap given the space you're working with and the gears you want access to. Were it not for this, all the spring would do is add chain slap, resistance, weight, and complexity.

The Shadow design, the larger pulley sizes now used, and the new emphasis on single or double as opposed to triple ring setups all create a dynamic where Shimano has decided they're better off without sprung upper pivots on MTB RDs. SRAM has done the same. There may also be an aspect to it where the sprung pivot plus offset guide pulley design gets impractial with very wide range clusters - I'm not sure of that but I believe it starts requiring a lot more offset to work.

It's nothing new. Despite being out of favor for most of the past 4 or so decades, there have been a lot of unsprung upper pivot rear derailers. The spring's necessity is something manufacturers have been historically on the fence about.


Shimano 105 gear change won't stay tuned

Any named series shimano, sram, or campagnolo setup should work for thousands of miles/KM without much attention.

Where you are riding may be an especially dirty area or there could be moisture (puddles count as moisture!) that could be causing you an issue.  Also, your bike storage location could be causing water to enter your housings and causing problems.  And finally, if you routinely put your bike down on the drive side... that causes all sorts of difficulties.

Really need to know more about your issue, but poor shifting performance can be caused by:

Cable/cable-housings that need to be cleaned, re-lubed, or replaced.
dirty chain
chain that needs to be lubed
chain that needs to be replaced
worn out cassette
bent Rear Derailleur hangar(e.g. damaged)
bent Rear Derailleur (e.g. damaged)
worn out Jockey Pulley
Rear wheel installed crooked (hard to do on most bikes, but non-vertical rear dropouts are susceptible to this, especially when a quick release is involved.)
sometimes a 10spd chain used on an 8 speed cassette/chain-ring can cause issues (but not always) or a 9spd used on an 11spd, etc.

Firstly, I would check to see if your rear derailleur is in-plane with the cassette. If the RD is bent, the hangar is bent, or the jockey pulleys are worn it'll be very finicky to keep in adjustment.  (e.g. nearly impossible...)


City bikes-- frame sizing for smaller cyclists

I helped a friend having a similar issue long time ago (she was 154cm ... I think it is similar height to yours, right?).

What we found was that a 17" frame would be okayish regarding leg's length, but a bit of a stretch regarding the torso/back, because the handlebar was too much forward.
However, for cycling stretches of 20-30 minutes this may be ok and you may still have a relatively simple albeit unconventional solution: reverting the stem (the metal piece used to attach the handlebar to the fork) to point backwards

In our case, the solution was to buy a 26" bicycle.
Sometimes these bicycles are advertised as "young adults bike" but they are completely adequate for your declared purposes.


This Shimano tech doc has the relevant part numbers for you.

Y3CZ98040, I think. You may want just part of it though.

It also has a handy interchangeability table, that tells me a freehub body from an M985 or M775 would work too, but might be the wrong colour.

You can look up more here.


How can I get started riding without spending a fortune (too much)?

Yeah, buy a used bike somewhere, either at a shop that has a bunch, or off or Craig's List or another "want ad" source.  And, of course, there are yard sales.  If you shop carefully you can probably pick up a serviceable bike for $50-100.

But first study bikes a little to learn to recognize quality.  Look at the cheap bikes at Walmart and some moderately priced ones at a reputable bike shop.  In particular note the differences you'll see around the rear axle and around the crank.  The cheapest bikes will have a 1-piece solid crank, whereas good bikes have a 3-piece crank.  On cheaper bikes the "dropouts" that the rear axle fits into are made of stamped sheet metal, whereas on better quality bikes the dropouts are die-cast or forged.  Also observe the joining of the tubing of the frame -- better quality bikes will have smoother welds, etc.

Also learn how to check out the condition of a used bike.  A little rust is not a problem, but if you pick up one end of the bike and spin the wheel it should spin freely, and the wheel should not wobble noticeably as it spins.  A brief test ride should find the brakes working well and the shifters at least working (they will likely need a "tune up").  Standing over the bike squeeze the front brake and the move the bike forwards and backwards -- the head bearing should not have any noticeable play.  Grab the crank and shake -- again there should be no noticeable play.


Is there difference between a Shimano HG200, 11-36, 9 speed VS HG201, 11-36, 9 speed?

CS-HG200 is black, CS-HG201 is silver.  Otherwise they are the same.


When I looked at their site, 3T didn't call out numbers for the fork, but it would appear the frameset uses one of the more common contermporary setups, IS52 for the frame and therefore a crown race that Cane Creek describes as 52/40, the 40 being the OD classification of the crown race seat under SHIS nomenclature. Crown races like that are basically all the same and interchangeable, because they live in a world where they have to be stand-ins for forks that have integrated crown races, which are headset-brand-neutral. So if the above assumptions about your frameset are true, you're safe using whatever 52/40 crown race you can get your hands on, but the Cane Creek one that should match is their part number BAA0173A.


What do you call the crankset system type on the Sram Apex?

Sram apex is a double chainring crankset which uses a GXP (aka Giga-X-Pipe) bottom bracket which is an external bearing bottom bracket.

I think External Bearing or Outboard bottom bracket are both commonly accepted terms, however there are several different incompatible types of external bottom brackets such as hollowtech, GXP, and Ultra Tourque.


Identical looking saddles feel very different

I think it is the difference in stretch, a slight different of angle in 'give' will make a huge difference in how they fit you.

It is often but not always that the more expensive saddle is the better one.
I have had a very cheap (4 $US or less) that I used without problems for all its (rather long) life.

People who use saddles with a gap will often tell that those work very well for them, but not for all people.

So I am afraid it will be a case of try and change if it does not work out.
If, as you have, you find one that fits you, try to get one for each (new) bike.


The easy solution is to rip out the old bottom bracket, put on a modern JIS/ISO bottom bracket. Velo Orange makes some with french threading and threadless (if the threads are stuffed).

Then find your favorite square taper crankset and put it on.

Keeping cottered cranks is extra work since the "right way" to do things with cottered cranks requires a bunch of tools nobody has anymore.


Should I replace my tyres with something thinner?

Rolling resistance depends much more on the tread, the shape of a tire, and the suppleness of its side walls. A few points to explain this:

A tire with a very pronounced tread will roll less smoothly over hard roads and requires more energy than a slick tire of same width.

A ballooning tire that is considerably wider than the rim will have to deform more as it rolls.

A stiff tire dissipates more energy for these deformations.

If you like to reduce rolling resistance, you might try to get a slick tire, or a tire with small treads. (There is by the way no aquaplaning concern with slicks for bicycles.) This will bring by far the greatest gain you may get. Marginal improvements may be had if you get a tire that is only slightly wider than the rim and is supple. However, the trade-off for the latter are a higher risk of flats, less comfort, and considerably higher costs per tire.

Also note, in general a tire that is narrower has to be used with higher pressure in order to avoid pinch flats.

Estimate

If you like to calculate how much a reduction of rolling resistance may bring in a best-case scenario you could use this calculator. Enter your weight desired power. Also increase the cross sectional area to something closer to 0.7 m^2 to reflect the more upright posture on a hybrid. The rolling resistance coefficient 0.004 assumes very well running tires. Calculate the speed once with this value, then double and tripple it.

Example calculation: For 100 kg weight, at sea level on a flat, and 200 W power I get 9.15 m/s, 8.53 m/s, and 7.82 m/s for coefficients 0.004, 0.008, and 0.012, respectively. For lighter riders rolling resitance matters less.

Further reading:

Sheldon Brown, tread patterns

ibid, tire width and pressure

Jan Heine, suspension losses


You're probably not going to find the freewheel remover for a reasonable price easily for this freewheel (and its probably going to be a 1-time use item). Though it probably doesn't hurt to ask around.

It looks like you cut the hub out of the wheel which was a big mistake -- it makes it a lot harder to remove the freewheel from the hub.

Anyhow, you can follow the usual destructive freewheel removal instructions (for when you don't need to reuse the freewheel and don't have the correct tools). Basically, you'll use a punch and a hammer to remove the bearing cone and then take things out as they fall out. Then, use a vise to remove the part of the freewheel attached to the body.


Is the balancing easier on big cycles after the kid learns to ride pedal less bicycle?

If they are steady on their feet and tall enough than a balance bike is fine.
The advantage of a balance bike is it develops balance first as small children don't necessarily have the strength or co-ordination to ride a pedal bike to begin with.

We found the wooden balance bikes to be inherently bigger - so for our child we went with the much smaller dimensions the aluminium balance bikes.


From my research on your question, it seems that the 52cm Cannondale six13 Road Bikes should have aluminum head tube, seat tube and rear triangle, with the top tube and down tube being carbon fiber. Here's a very good link that describes the Cannondale six13.

http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/latest-bikes/road-bike/cannondale/six13/prd_321143_5668crx.aspx


https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-duraace-st9000-name-plate-fixing-screws-right-hand-y63x98020/  says that Y63X98020 is a name plate  for the right hand lever of a ST-9000 brifter.

A review on that link says:

  unfortunately I mistakenly ordered st9000 I returned for credit and ordered the correct st9001 very happy

So from that I conclude you have ST-9001 brifters, which are 30% "thinner" and therefore a subtly different shape in the hood/body.

Some googling about suggests the part number you need for a ST-9001 is Y00G98020 but take this with caution, I'm certainly no expert.

Photo of the suggested part number - looks about right, but hard to know for sure.

Fortunately its only a $12/£12/€15 item, but then it is also a single piece of plastic.


Can a pump that is not being actively used fail?

On the one hand - nothing lasts forever.
On the other hand - you don't need your cache of pumps to last forever. You only need your cache to last:

Until you stop riding
Until you find something else that works as well or better

So, let's say best case scenario, you need your cache of pumps to last 40 years (just picking a number).
Let's also say that you have enough pumps in your cache to last the 40 years (or whatever number you pick) due to normal wear. For example, if one pump wears out every five years you have 8 pumps.
Your question is - will that last pump still work 35 years from now when you pick it up having never been used before?
My bet (in the absence of actual data, which would take longer than I'm willing to wait) is yes, that 8th pump will still work.
Here's why
Your cache of pumps have two things going for them:

The seals are covered with a lubricant that protects them from oxidation
The seals and the lubricant are in a sealed environment

It may be that your real problem 35 years from now will be the oxidation of the lubricant rather than the oxidation of the seal.

Oxidation is the most predominant reaction of a lubricant in service. It is responsible for numerous lubricant problems - including viscosity increase, varnish, sludge and sediment formation, …
Oxidation - The Lubricant's Nemesis

You can increase the odds of in your favor by:

Storing the pumps in a temperature stable environment, as you describe in your question.
Re-lubricating the unused pumps after some period of time (check them at 5 years and set a schedule based on your observation) would assure that the lubrication does not break down and gum up the pump. Re-lubricate the pump with a lubricant that is similar as possible to what you find in the pump.


Raleigh Montage mountain bike crank question

Shimano make a number of triple cranks for 7 or 8 rear speeds. These can be found in Shimano's Acera, Altus and Tourney lines.

The chainline standard for triple cranks is 47.5mm (chainine is how far the center of the middle ring is from the center line of the frame, see here for details). I'm guessing an bike from the 80's might have used a narrower chainline. If possible, measure the chainline of the original crank. If it's within a few mm of 47.5mm a modern triple crank will work.

I think the chainring spacing should work fine with the Suntour thumb shifters. I'm guessing the front shifter isn't indexed, or has many index points for fine adjustment of the front derailleur.

You will need to replace the bottom bracket along with the crank. 'Three piece' cranks for a square taper or Octalink axle need a specific axle length to get the correct chain line. The Montage has a square taper axle but it's very unlikely to be the correct length for a replacement crank.

From what I can tell the Montage frame has a standard 'English' threaded (1.370" X 24 tpi) bottom bracket shell. You will need to check the width, it should be 68mm, if it is, a new cartridge bottom bracket will fit.


1) Wheel building is non-trivial and takes practice but there are some good references (and J. Brandst, The Bicycle Wheel). I don't know if a dynamo hub will be harder than a normal hub, but the first order of business is finding a decent dynamo hub which takes a disc rotor.

2) On reusing nipples: Given how cheap nipples are, why would you bother? Though you can probably get away with it safely.

3) A built wheel is probably your best bet (along with selling the old wheel to get some of the money you're going to have to put into even getting a decent hub dynamo). Some people like Peter White Cycles (no affiliation) do wheel building for many compatible decent hub+rim combination.

Note that you'll need access to a few pieces of special equipment for wheel building on top of the components - a truing stand, a spoke wrench, a dish stick and a spoke tensiometer. [Well, you don't really need the last two but they'll make your life easier]. So if you're looking to just save money (and it sounds like you are with question 2), you might find that in net, getting the wheel built by someone whose good at wheel building and stands by their work saves you money in net (and time too).


What's an "Auto-Mini" folding bike? Can I use one for decades without having to replace the frame?

Auto-Mini folding bikes

Auto-Mini folding bikes were made by the Austrian corporation Steyr-Daimler-Puch AG in the early 1970s; the bikes were usually sold in department stores. (Folding Cyclist, 2016.) In North America, vendors included J.C. Penney, Montgomery-Ward, and Simpsons-Sears. (thebikeguy, 2007; Martin, 1996; Thomas, 2011b;
cf. Bikeworks, c. 1998.) In my experience, the main-tube sticker always says "Auto-Mini" in huge type, with the word "Junior" in faint type inside the letter "T" of the word "Auto". The head badge may have "Executive", "Iverson", "Senator", or another "brand name" on it; this varies according to which store sold the bike. (Folding Cyclist, 2016.)

About the bikes:

They have 20" wheels. Like most small-wheeled folding mikes, an Auto-Mini can be adjusted to fit an adult or a child (cf. UsedOttawa, 2012). An Auto-Mini uses a Thompson-style bottom bracket. Keep it lubricated (Scott, 2008), as it's a hassle to replace it with a modern bottom bracket (Rehder, 2007, quoting Chen).
There were at least two distinct types of Auto-Mini. They differ slightly: for example, one has a slightly-larger frame; one has a slightly-smaller one (Thomas, 2011c). Thomas bought the slightly-larger type (Thomas, 2011c) and provided a detailed parts list in a blog entry (Thomas, 2011a).

About the frame and the ride quality:

"I have a few of them myself and find that they are a good sturdy riding bike." (Scott, 2008.)
"They are prone to cracking where the main tube intersects with the seat tube. There are fixes". (Rehder, 2007, quoting Chen).
"For some reason I find these ride nicer than the other old folders — maybe they got the wheelbase just right or the weight is a little less. I own a few (they're cheap) and they suffer from frame breakage in a couple of places; where the seat tube meets the bottom bracket shell (too much stress) and where the two thin seat stay tubes meet the seat tube (lousy welds). If you can weld, you can improve the frame by adding a piece of tubing between the bottom bracket shell and the main tube. Otherwise, ride gently." (Seal, 2011).

In sum, if you want a quality frame, spend more and buy something better than an Auto-Mini. "Spending $100 - $200 on a folding bike won't get you quality of any sort. Folding bikes with quality frames are significantly more expensive. You may want to save up for a bit before buying, or find a way to get a non-folding bike." (Fein, 2013).

One possible alternative to an Auto-Mini: a Raleigh Twenty

Among vintage folding bikes, the Raleigh Twenty is a better bike overall (cf. Rehder, 2007). The Twenty's main deficiency is its braking power — which is "barely adequate" in dry conditions, and non-existent in the rain. (Rehder, 2007). For safety reasons, if you buy a Twenty, you should probably upgrade it in order to correct this deficiency; there are various ways do so (Martin, 2012).

Postscript

Please feel free to edit this post and add more information or your own personal opinions.


The biggest cause of broken spokes, that I know of, is inadequate tension. When the spokes are tight enough they flex a little bit with every turn of the wheel as the spokes at the bottom of the wheel unload slightly and then tighten again as they move around to the top. Over time this bending back and forth weakens the spokes – usually at the bend where they pass through the hub – and eventually they break. The cure is to build the wheel with sufficient tension to prevent the flexing.

If the wheel is old (and since it is a 27" wheel, I'm inclined to think it is) then the damage may already be done – although it sounds like you've replaced close to half of the spokes by now.

All of the above assumes that you're riding a more-or-less normal bike in more-or-less a normal way…

To be much more help to you it would be helpful to have answers to the comments on the original question above. As a very quick and dirty check of tension you could grab a "handful of spokes" (a set of 4 from both sides of the wheel) where they cross and try squeezing them. It should be quite hard to get any flex out of them.


I would go for the bike that fits well today. You can allways increase the saddle height a bit should you grow a bit more. A good fit is very important when it comes to your enjoyment of the bike.

If you do grow, you can get a new bike in a couple of years, if you don't grow you're not stuck with a too large bike.


Is it possible to perform tricks with 100% safety during commuting?

You can't bend over and tie your shoes with 100% safety -- you might throw your back out, you might lose your balance, etc.

As to "tricks", one man's "trick" is another man's "ho-umm" -- it depends on your level of skill and physical conditioning.  Certainly, hopping a moderate height curb is within the realm of possible (I used to do it on occasion, before I became old and crotchety), but doing so at relatively high speed is non-trivial.

But "tricks during commuting" is concerning -- while you're welcome to be as daring (or foolish) as you want to be when you're safely by yourself and not a hazard to others, when any bicycle, pedestrian, or vehicle traffic is nearby (or potentially nearby but unseen) it's incumbent on you to behave in a manner that does not put others at risk (or serious inconvenience).


Is the banjo bolt the same between the Shimano XTR and Shimano Saint rear brake caliper?

edit: The only XTR calipers that used the appropriate banjo bolt for your Saint brake were part of the m960 series, which was released in the early 2000s and had integrated brake/shift controls (push the brake lever sideways to pull shift cable). these levers used the BH96 hose, which is equivalent stiffness to BH-59 and also had a banjo fitting at the lever. Unless you shift by pushing the brake lever, you need a new banjo bolt.
The only banjo bolts compatible with the BR-M820 are the short banjo bolt (with the o-rings, this is part number  Y8H098010. the bolt by itself is  Y8H001500, and the o-rings are  Y8SY28000) or the BR-M8100 spec bolt (Y2RT98010 and  Y2RT05000, respectively). This is from the Shimano compatibility table on "Compatibility between banjo bolt," here. Your bike shop may have a Shimano hydraulic brake small parts kit kicking around, with a few of these in a plastic container with a bunch of dividers and other things like rotor fixing bolts, retaining washers, and IS caliper mounting shims. Neither of the compatible banjo bolts are compatible with any of the current XTR calipers; the bolts used on those calipers are all too long. both M-810 and M-820 Saint calipers used the same banjo bolt, and it is not used on any XTR caliper with banjo fitting for which I could find an exploded view on si.shimano.com, except for the early 2000s  BR-M965 (IS mount)/BR-M966 (post mount).
The caliper is compatible with standard length banjos (not banjo bolts), but be advised that for heat dissipation and to put more distance between the hose and the hot part of the caliper, Shimano's gravity oriented brakes like Saint usually come with hoses fitted with a long banjo. You can use any banjo-equipped BH-90 hose, but it needs the short banjo bolt. your existing hose and banjo will fit, but consider a new hose kit with the long banjo depending on your riding/braking style.
If you're buying a new hose kit, here's a screencap of the 2021 Shimano genuine parts catalog with the parts numbers for all hose kits that come with the appropriate banjo bolt, because there are many options and availability may vary. Or you can try and get the banjo bolt separately, as above.

On the last part of your question, just to cover the bases:
-Always use genuine Shimano mineral oil, or for other manufacturers' mineral oil brakes, the brake fluid recommended by the brake manufacturer; third party mineral oil brake fluids can and will damage the seals, because mineral oil fluids are not all chemically the same, regardless of viscosity- the tolerances on seals and bladders are tight and Magura or other fluids can cause the seals to swell.
-Follow the service instructions at si.shimano.com, use a torque wrench, and a dedicated bleed kit for Shimano hydraulic brakes- don't use the same bleed kit for different hydraulic systems, like those that use DOT fluid. si.shimano.com is a great resource for Shimano products, and I encourage anybody working on their own Shimano-equipped bikes to familiarize themselves with this resource.
-When bleeding a used brake, start with a gravity bleed to avoid pushing dirty fluid up through the lever. There is also a procedure to expose and clean the pistons, one piston at a time, using a modified bleed block.


Food costs compared to Gasoline riding cross country USA

I rode the Southern Tier last year and used a GPS app on my phone that estimated caloric output. Probably not very accurately, but it gives us a number to kick around. My distance was right around 3000 miles.

Total estimated calories burned over the ride was 143,000. That would be equivalent to 265 Big Macs (540 cals per Big Mac). Not that I ate any Big Macs, but it's a handy yardstick. A Big Mac costs about $4. So that would be $1056 in "fuel" if that's all you ate. I'm assuming that you would burn about the same number of calories whether you rode a relatively small number of high-mileage days or a large number of low-mileage days (I think that technically this is wrong because in the latter case you've got more off-bike time during which you're also burning calories).

Interestingly, a gallon of gas costs about $4 right now too, depending on where you are. If you're in a car and getting 22 mpg over the same distance, and filling up with $4/gal gas, you'll spend $545.

Although I did keep track of my food costs at the time, I no longer have that data handy. I was not cooking a lot of my own food—mostly eating out. So my food costs were higher than they had to be. On the other hand, you could not get away with just pasta--you'd need a lot more protein and fat to keep going over the long haul. As it is, I lost about 15 lb.


What does marking like "aq/ar" on the sprocket mean?

This has nothing to do with dates.
Shimano introduced cassettes on their road racing groupsets first. I.e. Dura-Ace. The first Deore XT lacked this.
The first Shimano MTB cassette was CS-M732:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/CS-M732/EV-CS-M732-0969.pdf
This had
B-type: 12-14-16-18-21-24-28T
C-type: 13-15-17-20-23-26-30T
Not sure what A-type was.
Anyway, they made lots of cassettes so 26 letters wasn't enough so they switched to two letters. (And I think it's MTB-specific, for cassettes, road cassettes do without them)
Chainrings had a similar thing - at one time they had 3 types for road, A, B and C
https://www.thetallcyclist.com/2013/01/the-truth-about-the-shimano-a-and-b-type-chainrings/
But now they use a two letter code
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/FC-9000/EV-FC-9000-3325B.pdf
The code represents the entire set of sprockets or chainrings, and is significant because of 'hyperglide', i.e. the ramps on the sprocket or chainring. The number of ramps is equal to the gap to the next sprocket or chainring, for efficient shifting (if you fit a sprocket designed for a different larger sprocket, then shift performance from that sprocket will be poor). Technically a chainring or sprocket could be defined in terms of the larger ring/sprocket that it shifts to, but I guess writing '34/50' on a 30t chainring is more confusing than writing 34 MA.
An 11t (or whatever) sprocket may have multiple codes because there may be multiple 11-13.... cassettes for a given speed (the letters are specific both to the gear range and the number of speeds (so a 50/39/30 triple chainset had a different code for 10-speed rings than 9-speed).
Sprockets with the same codes should be interchangeable across cassettes (so you could fit an XTR sprocket with the correct code to your cheap cassette), but materials/weight differences are present. Shimano have lots of incompatible chainring designs OTOH and I suspect that chainrings of the same fitment have the same code, e.g., R9100 chainrings are incompatible with 9000 chainrings, and the former for 50-34 are marked 'MS', the latter 'MA'. The cheaper RS510 chainset also uses 'MS' for 50-34, so likely would fit to Dura-Ace and vice versa (though the RS510 rings are much heavier).
If you go through all the chainsets & cassettes on si.shimano.com you could come up with a list, but it doesn't seem particularly worthwhile to do so.
bj is 10 specifically numbered cogs 11-34t, and bk is likewise 11-36t, and for 10 speeds only - a 9-speed 11-36t is called CB (11-36t 9-speed was introduced after 10-speed 11-36t, so this is simply a matter of going up in increments of one letter for each new pattern Shimano made, across all speeds. 11-36t 9-speed cb is just the same as 11-34t au but with the 34t switched for a 36t, and since there were many 9-speed cassettes made before 11-36t was a thing, probably you won't find 'cb' on many 9-speed sprockets, but they are identical to 'au' except the last two cogs.)


Using spacers on crank spindle instead of bottom bracket when fitting HollowTech MTB crank to road bb

My guess is that thus setup could work. There should be no problems with the bearings, as moving the cranks slightly outboard is equivalent to moving the riders shoes slightly outboard in terms of forces and leverage.

However: are crank spindle spacers available? I guess plain washers with the correct inner diameter could be used. They would have contact only the bearing inner races though.

You;d also have to check what chainline you get with the MTB crank.


What is the safest type of pedal for all-weather city cycling?

There is a lot of discussion about this topic (i.e. a lot of anecdotes) because pedals are a very personal matter (cf. LondonCyclist or Zach Gallardo). However, I think that you're over-thinking this in some way: The "safest" pedal is the pedal you're most used to and comfortable with.

Consider, for example, a hypothetical case where clipless pedals have been "empirically proven" to be The Safest Pedal: You then buy some fancy clipless pedals and have no idea how to clip in and out and then you fall at a stop light and some car behind you runs over your leg.

Of course, this answer wouldn't be complete without me giving my own two cents (i.e. anecdote):

Since biking in the city (esp. "all-weather" cycling) involves dealing with a lot of unexpected obstacles/dangers/stops/etc., you should be able to quickly and confidently dismount your bike and re-mount with little hassle. Perhaps if you've got really good reflexes and you're very used to your own clipless setup then doing this with clipless pedals is no issue at all. However, there still may be some unexpected event which happens just a bit too quickly for you to properly unclip, and that split second which makes the difference between properly unclipping and falling may lead to problems like those described in the preceding paragraph.
Likewise, you should have good contact with the pedals. If you wear leather-soled shoes, then please make sure you have rubberized pedals: Slipping on your pedals can be very painful and this will happen if you're wearing leather soles and your pedals get wet.


XC (mountain bike) tire for dry hardpack and loose conditions

A good quality bike tire usually has a better size tolerance, a better rubber compound (might make more difference on traction than thread geometry itself), a better seating on the rim, and a better "feel" - the tyre carcass reacts better to bumps and curves, have a good cushioning effect and a good rolling resistance. I'd say there is a perceiveably relationship between price and quality, or at least the vast majority of low-price tires are not very good compared to medium- to high-priced ones;
For the described conditions, I'd say 2.0 would be best, some might prefer 1.95, some up to 2.2. More than this is possible, but probably not necessary;
Cannot tell about price range, depends on country;
Tires are funny in a way that the best tires (so as the best suspensions) do their work quietly. If you notice that you just GO, enjoying the trail and never ever having to think about the tire, traction, cornering control, pinch flats, etc., then the tire is good, it's doing its magic. Not-so-good tyres constantly remind you they're there, and you end up thinking: "this f***ing tire sucks!";
Tire models/brands are a very personal matter, but I had good tires - ones that did their magic - from (not in any order) Bontrager, Specialized, Maxxis, Ritchey, WTB, Panaracer, Tioga.


Worried I damaged my fork fitting crown race

Nobody is going to be able to tell you 100% that its integrity hasn't been compromised from this. Steel can fatigue, brazed dropout joints are strong but not infinitely strong, etc. We all know it's a tough dropout and in all likelihood it's totally fine. But there's always a level of distant hypothetical risk that gets created when things like this happen to bike parts, and nobody can tell you just how distant.

Were a slightly more developed guess to be made, the first steps in getting there would be check dropout alignment (with dropout alignment tools), check the size and parallelism of the dropout slot with a caliper, and ideally check the fork alignment. The detail that's lost in time here, especially from an outside perspective, is exactly how hard it got hit.


The answer to the chain/drive train cleaning frequency question is pretty ambiguous. Allow your good sense to prevail as there is a fine line between meticulous and a psychiatric diagnosis. I ride daily using either mountain bike or roadie and in all weather conditions except ice or snow >6 inches. I use TriFlow (just a fact, not a product endorsement) to lube chain, derailleur pivot points, shifter & brake internals.  I find that every week to 10 days, the chain requires the full cleanse and relube, which, as noted in other answers, has many routes to the goal of a lubed chain free of contaminates.

As far as in-between these complete cleansings, here's some ideas:
--Compressed air. Clinging dirt and sand get blown away rather easily and quickly with short  blasts from the nozzle. I also hit the cassette and derailleurs.  The Teflon in my choice of lube helps matters as road grit is less likely to stick firmly, if at all, to the chain or components. This is quick and easy enough to do after every ride, though the conditions on every ride don't always create the need for cleaning. Like pressurized water, good sense and care must be used so that the contaminants aren't driven into bearing housing, shift and brake cabling, etc.  It's also possible to blow lubrication layer off the chain if one blasts a spot for too long. Overall, this works great.

--Take a rag, wrap around the chain and back peddle the crank to effectively remove much of the gunk collected on a chain. Related to this, one should wipe excess lube off the chain a short period of time after applying to chain and allowing it to penetrate the only place on the chain where it's needed: the internal aspects of the linkages where pin, bushing and side plates come together.

-- Excess lube creates an opportunity for more dirt and grime to attach itself to the chain. When applying lube, a couple of drops on each linkage followed by normal chain movement to assist it's penetration into the linkages is ample.  Allow the solvent carrier (if applicable to your choice of lube) to evaporate and wipe off the excess clinging to the side plates.

--I find that paying attention to the rear derailleur pulleys is a helpful indicator when assessing the contamination level. It's here on the pulleys where the gritty, chain-wearing paste accumulates and transfers to and from the chain as one rides along.  It's a simple matter to take a cloth or scraping tool and remove this from the pulley wheels.

--Some bicyclists like to run two chains, swapping the clean one in and gaining some flexibility with the dirty one, which can be cleaned at a time that's more convenient. The advent and success of Quick-links to break and rejoin a chain multiple times make this an easy way to keep the drivetrain fresh. Many report both cassette and chain have gained excellent longevity using this technique (more than can be explained by simply doubling the typical life of a single chain).

That was a Texas sized answer to say run two chains intermittently and utilize compressed air for quick cleaning between changes.


The item in question appears to be a bikepacking seat bag which has a set of struts below the bag. Those struts clamp onto your seatpost.
Without having used this clamp myself, my reading of the language is that Porcelain Rocket, the manufacturer, think you are likely to be fine clamping this to a carbon post if and only if you don’t over-torque the clamp. This requires a torque wrench, and 4 Nm is not high torque (the clamp on my carbon gravel bike says 5-8 Nm, and I think I use about 6-7 Nm to prevent slipping). The manufacturer is clearly saying not willing to assume any responsibility for damage to your carbon posts, which seems prudent and reasonable. They clarify in the last sentence that if you clamp this to a carbon post, this is at your own risk. Had they meant to prohibit this saddlebag on carbon posts entirely, they would have said something like, “Do not mount the Mr. Fusion to any carbon seatpost.”
This is nitpicky of me, but ultralight carbon posts may not be safe to be clamped in that fashion. Their wall thickness might not be sufficient for that purpose. I don’t know if any posts are made with variable wall thickness, but it seems possible that someone could lay up a seatpost with less fiber in the area where it will not be clamped. Of course, this is a thought exercise only, since a you probably aren’t mounting a bikepacking saddle bag on a road racing bike with that light a seatpost.
One thing you could consider is to inspect the clamp for any burrs or sharp edges when you get it. It does seem possible to me that a sharp edge on the bottom side of the clamp could eventually start cutting through fibers in the seatpost, which would naturally be bad. You could just sandpaper the edges of the clamp until they are smooth. This statement is admittedly not based on any practical experience, just on my general (and limited) knowledge of how carbon fiber can fail. I would not expect there to be any burrs or sharp edges, as this should have been caught in quality control, but I suppose it's not impossible.


Will heavy tires make a difference for climbing?

There is no way tires are different than other weight when climbing. The saying about rotating mass being equivalent to double non-rotating mass applies only when accelerating and even then you have to take into account that tires are quite lightweight compared to rest of bike and rider.

Rolling resistance difference can be noticeable even when climbing, but Conti 4 seasons are among the worst road tires and Schwalbe Marathon plus is one of the best rolling extremely protected tires, so the difference isn't necessarily that great.


Citrus degreasers work well. They can be washed away with water.

If you are going to spray your chain with WD-40, try making some shields with cardboard to keep it off the frame, brakes, wheels, tires etc.


You can purchase suspension-corrected rigid forks which are designed to work with the geometry that suspended frames offer (Essentially the axle-crown measurement places the head tube where it needs to be. Pretty simple.) There are a few manufacturers out there, but my favorite is Surly (in terms of quality and in value. They offer several forks for 26"-29" with disc and canti options.)

While installing a non-suspension-corrected fork might not totally ruin the handling of a particular bicycle, it would be VERY noticeable (as 120 mm is a good bit of distance to be dropping the front end of a bike.) It will be worth the investment.


You could switch to a saddle that isn't as abrasive. That's one of the reasons people like leather saddles such as Brookes -- even if they're more expensive and heavier than plastic wonders.  The leather saddles also breathe and wick moisture and I've found that wet cloth abrades much faster than dry cloth.

There are also neoprene saddle covers which might reduce friction by allowing more slippage, but I've always found the squishy movement they cause to be more uncomfortable than comfortable.

ps. Many cyclists consider saddle worn clothing to be a mark of pride.


How about this:

attach an extension that can be clamped in a vise such that the handle of the torque wrench is horizontal, and its own weight is applying torque that attempts to rotate the extension around its axis
using some wire or string, attach an empty 1 liter plastic bottle to the handle of the torque wrench
adjust the setting of the wrench such that it's own weight (+ the empty bottle) is just enough to cause it to "click"
increase the setting by an amount such as 3Nm (on a wrench that is 30 cm long, this would correspond to a weight of 9N which is slightly under 1kg)
add water to the bottle until the wrench clicks again
measure the mass of the water added and compare to the expected amount based on the torque setting increase and the length of the handle of the wrench

The only missing part is that we don't know if the initial setting (corresponding to the torque of the wrench's own weight) is accurate.  You could find the center of the mass and measure its distance from the point where sockets are attached to the wrench, then calculate the torque from the weight and distance.


What does triple-hollow construction mean?

When a rim is extruded, the shape of the material can give added strength to the rim.
There are many rim types, but the two most common are single-walled and double walled. A single walled rim uses a simple U shaped extrusion. A double-walled rim adds a cross brace across that U shape, creating a D-shaped extrusion.
Triple hollow construction add extra cross-bracing to that D shape, resulting in more than one hollow area in the extrusion. It is supposed to add strength to the rim. Compare for example the following image from Sheldon Brown:

Thus the name.


I have a bike i wanna fix for my 2yr old grandson but have no ideas

Remove the crank and the chain. If possible the rear sprocket or at least cover it with a decent layer of tape or a bit of cut open rubber hose. Lower the saddle so he can put his feet on the ground and teach him to balance


Can a 10 speed rear derailleur be modified for 9 speed and then modified again to a 10 speed deraileur?

There is no modification to be done. You can use a 10spd Shimano derailleur with 9spd or 10spd components no problem. If they're telling you that they need to "modify" your 10 speed derailleur because you were previously using it with 9 speed components, bid them good day and go find another shop. However I don't think that's what they're concerned with.

Since you're going to be running a 3x10 setup, my guess is that the reason your bike shop wants to replace your derailleur is the cage length of the current derailleur that you have. 3x10 gives you the widest gear ranges, but with wider gear ranges come longer cages to account for larger capacity, that is the derailleur's ability to take up or deal out extra chain between gearing extremes (big-big, small-small, or close to either). Too short caged of a derailleur can cause the chain to lose tension when nearing the small-small combination, or cause the bike to be unable to shift into gear combinations approaching big-big at all. Neither one of those are a good situation and can potentially damage your bike's drivetrain.

If you're running a 3x10 setup, you likely need at least a medium cage derailleur. If you're running a dinner plate on the back (read: cassette with very low gearing, likely 29t or larger) you may actually need a long cage derailleur, or a mountain bike derailleur.


Terminology index - a list of bike part names and cycling concepts

Bicycle-Shaped Object (BSO)
A derogatory term for a very cheaply produced bike with very low quality components. The components can be hard to maintain due to poor tolerances. BSOs are often sold at non-specialty retail stores.
The etymology of the term is uncertain. It appears in use in some parts of the English-speaking world. It may originate in the UK, as discussed at the link. Other languages may use terms equivalent to supermarket bike or department store bike. These terms are likely to be understood in English as well.

For instance the BSO pictured is being sold in the UK by ASDA (owned by Walmart) for £75. These bikes tend to be mass produced and sold in flat pack boxes for self-assembly.
Purchasers of lower-end bicycles tend to be less experienced cyclists who focus on price. Many BSOs carry features which are included for marketing purposes but are unnecessary for the typical end-user. Such features may include front and rear suspension, wide off-road style tyres and an excessive number of gear ratios. For cyclists who are riding on city streets or smooth trails, these features are unnecessary. Including these features reduces the budget available for better components elsewhere.
It is more advisable to search for a cheap second-hand bike in a similar price range from a more experienced cyclist or on eBay than to go for one of these.


How can I get my spoke dimensions without knowing the dimensions of the wheel?

Get one of the spokes out ans measure its length. It is a primitive method, but by far the simplest one. Less accurately, you could try to measure it on the wheel and account for the hidden part in the nipple, but I would not recommend it.


How to get the fixed part of a bar-end shifter out of the handlebar when it is stuck?

I suspect vice grips or plumbers pliers/sliding lockjaw pliers will do the required.

Since the fitment is not turning in place, there's a good chance that the shifter is stuck to the inside of the bars by corrosion, either rust or aluminium oxide.  I note the upright nature of these bars may encourage salty sweat to enter and weep down into the bars.

This appears to be the left shifter, for the front chainring, so is likely to be used less and have more opportunity to settle.  More-frequent adjustment of the rear/right shifter could have helped keep it loose.

Suggested method of attack:

Start by blasting the seam with a penetrating oil.  Anything that can wick its way in will help.
Then try to spin the fitting in the bar - you might need leverage from a stout screwdriver through the mounting hole, or the big pliers around the face.  Use masking tape or a thick old rag to minimise damage.  Also be mindful of damaging the part you want to reuse.
if you can get the handlebar restrained, try feeding a light rope or wire through that hole and have an assistant put steady pressure on the end (ie, in line with the tube).  Use your pliers to wiggle the fitting back and forth.

A last resort could be to apply a hot hairdryer exhaust to the outside of the bars - in theory the aluminium will heat up faster and expand a bit.  The risks are to anything that is not metal - rubbers really don't like heat, and its also possible to set those oils earlier smoking.  Plus a hot metal handlebar is a burn risk.  Don't use flame - that's too aggressive.

Take your time on this - there's no hurry.  It could be that a bit of patience  will work best.


Electra Shifter (Revoshift) is hard to turn

I recommend getting a rear Shimano trigger shifter.  This would mean getting both a trigger shifter and a grip because I think your current grip is designed for the Revoshift shifter.

The part I'd recommend for this use is the shimano acera 7-speed trigger shifter, which costs about $15, if you're in the US.

If you are mechanically inclined, it's pretty easy to do the work yourself, and it's a lot of fun when you get it working.

If you're not mechanically inclined, bring it to your LBS to install.  This will save you the effort, and you eliminate the chance of irritating your wife for breaking her bike.


Even if they were heavily contaminated, pads should have enough grip to lock up against hand pressure.

My first guess is that your pads are worn to nothing and you're trying to grip the rotor with the pad holders. New pads would be the first order of the day.

The second thing would be that you've tightened up the slack adjustment too much or that you've clamped the brake line at the brake so high that you have no brake travel left. So you're essentially hitting the limit of the brake when you squeeze, rather than grabbing down with your caliper.

I'd take it to your local bike shop. A one minute look over would tell them if you needed new shoes or brake cable adjustment.

Since replacing your pads resolved it, it looks like either pad contamination (or brake setup) was the problem. To make sure your rotors don't recontaminate your new pads, I'd clean your rotors with some isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) from your local pharmacy / drug store and make sure not to get anything oily (such as fingerprints) on the rotors.


Check out the link below. This question has been answered already and they do a pretty good job of explaining the possible issues/solutions.

Rear bike wheel wobbling


Are there any 'anti-fly' masks on the market?

Buffs are useful for a time, but I understand that they can get uncomfortable after a few kilometres. Try something like this mask from Respro - you can buy replaceable filters and I think they look kind of cool too; you can even shove them in the washer after a particularly muddy or sweaty ride.


Will putting bicycle bottles in dishwasher damage them?

The first step is to probably check the bottle for the icon shown below to identify that the manufacturer has said the product is Dishwasher Safe.

I just checked my bottles, and they don't contain an icon saying they are dishwasher safe, but it does thankfully have the "food safe" icon. On the manufacturer web site it says that the bottles are dishwasher safe, but to avoid using the 'sanitary clean' or 'heat boost'  settings as they may distort the plastic. It also goes on to say that the recommended way of washing them is by hand. Following the manufacturers advice is probably the best option.

Personally, I just use regular dish soap (Sunlight) and water. Once in a while I'll do the full brake down pulling off the silicone nozzle and soaking them in very hot water with some added bleach. After letting them soak for a while, I'll rinse them thoroughly and then finish off with soap and water method.

I also try to use certain bottles only for water and try to never put anything other than water in them.  Bottles that get Gatorade or similar tend to take on the taste of the drink and therefore don't work well with water.  The ones that have only water in them tend to last longer and the ones that get Gatorade are replaced more frequently.


"Creaking" noise from headtube/handlebar

With the old style headsets this symptom was generally due to the handlebar slipping slightly inside the reenforcing tube that surrounds the center on most bars.  The tube was glued to the bar, and eventually some of the glue would fail, allowing the two to move relative to each other as you rode and the bar flexed.  In very rare cases the bar would actually slip within the tube, but in most cases the sound was harmless and would eventually go away -- appearing after a few months of use and then disappearing after a year or two.  Tightening the bar clamp usually did not help.  Bars without the reenforcing tube, of course, did not exhibit this behavior.

One would also occasionally get creaking of the stem within the steering tube.  Also harmless, and usually quieted by slightly tightening the stem bolt.

I've never studied a threadless headset real closely, but presumably, given the number of individual components, there are all sorts of things that can slip slightly relative to each other as things flex.


If you have a relatively big bench vice (or some other big clamps like woodworking clamps) you could consider making a DIY axle extractor to get the job done:

1)

Take a wooden beam (approx 4x4cm or larger size also good as long as it's manageable) and saw off a bit of approx 20cm. drill a hole in the middle which will fit the threaded end of the pedal axle through.

2)

Buy a flat punch (link in previous comment) or make a DIY flat punch with sawed off screwdriver of the correct size and use it to press against the pedal's axle. The difficult thing would be to get the screwdriver or punch to stay perpendicular with the jaw of the bench vice whilst clamping down. a punch will make this easier since it has a bigger base but still it might be difficult. If you are ok with it you could consider drilling a small hole in the vice jaw to stick  the screwdriver in or a better option: take a block of aluminum or steel (or an old crank for example, and drill a hole in it such that you can use the block for a base for the screwdriver/punch to keep it parallel with the jaw of the vice.

3)

Place the pedal in between (with the pedal's axle (the side that screws into the crank) in the hole in the wooden beam) and the sawed off screwdriver or punch pressing against the other side of the axle.

then tighten the vice and the pedal's axle should be pushed out of the pedal.


This could be a number of things. Any of the chainset components, hubs, brakes.

To narrow it down,

Take the chain off the front chainring and pedal by hand, do you feel any resistance here? If so this could indicate a problem with the bottom bracket
Spin the wheel off the ground by hand in a forward direction. Does it spin freely and continue spinning when you let go? If not this could indicate brakes or hub bearings
If neither of the above are the problem then it's likely your gearing, and its probably best to take it to your local bike shop for repair.


Why are single-speed bikes with disc brakes hard to find?

Usually, singles need to have horizontal dropouts so you can take the chain slack by adjusting the rear axle position.

That means that any brake that is attached to the frame will "go out of position" when you adjust the rear axle position. That is, by the way, the reason why some horizontal dropouts are not quite horizontal, but diagonal: to be near-perpendicular to the seat stays where rim brakes are attached, so that wheel movement is "tangential" to the brakes.

Unfortunately, with regular disc brakes, this adjustment would totally misalign the brake pads relative to the disk, if the adjustment is possible at all.

Although there are some bikes with grooves for the disk caliper, where you can "slide" the caliper into, it's usually not worth the trouble, because chain slack has to be corrected very often, and caliper setup is relatively laborious.

Also, it would be possible to take the slack with an eccentric bottom bracket, but that is even more esoteric.

Next to that, some single-speeds will come with a flip-flop hub. A flip-flop hub and a disc brake doesn't go well together.

Hope this helps.


Why should I choose 36 or 32 spokes (or another number)?

Lower spoke numbers are primarily of interest to weight weenies (though for a given price, a lower spoke wheel will probably use a heavier rim offsetting the spoke reduction weight savings).

As usual, Sheldon is some good reading. There is also a whole book on how to build wheels well and design decisions, by Jobst Brandt, called "The Bicycle Wheel".

What matters for most people is using a good amount of spokes, good spokes, a good rim and hub, and putting them together well (and how they're put together) - pretty much any wheel is going to be bad if the wheelbuilder messes up/sucks.

Heavier riders often should go with a higher spoke number than a lower spoke number and tougher rims+spokes. According to Sheldon, it used to be that you'd run 36 front, 36 back then we started dropping. On a commuter, I'd emphasize durability, so I'd probably go with the more spoke option.

The best thing to do is talk to a good wheel builder and assess your individual needs. If you got to the point where rim wear was what made you replace the rim, chances are you're fine with whatever you had. If you're replacing the rim, make sure to use new spokes and make sure the hub is in good condition.


Orientation of asymmetrical brake pads on front vs. rear

Some of the KoolStop pads have a ramp at the leading edge (facing in the direction that the wheel rotation comes from – i.e., towards the back of the bike) that is supposed to help sweep water and other contaminants off of the rim. If you have these you'd want to face them in the right direction if you can.

Other than that and clearance I can't think of a reason why it would matter unless the pads are the type with replaceable cartridges in which case you need to make sure that the open end of carrier faces towards the rear so that the pads are pushed forward against the stop.


Can the top tube on a mens bike be cut off?

This is downright dangerous and should never be done on a bicycle someone intends to ride. The top tube is integral to the strength of the bike. The frame can buckle or worse when you try to ride it.

First, make sure you're looking at the right size of frame. If its too big, it's going to be hard to get on and off from. You can buy a stepthrough frame or a mixte frame if you want something easier to get off and on, or a recumbent bike.


Chain derailment from front crank. Fine on large ring won't hold on smaller inner ring

I could be caused because the chain is not running a straight line from the rear cogs to the front chain rings. If you put the bike on the stand and follow the chain from the top of the cogs to the chainrings. You will see if it follows a straight line. It might be slight off so that it won't jump off when on the stand but it does when there is pressure.

Another reason could the rear cogs wable. If it so, you will need to change the cogs.


I have a vintage Pinarello with a crooked fork

Yes.

If the damage is very minor, a good shop or frame builder may be able to straighten your existing fork, but it's more likely that the fork needs replacement.


As the question is formulated now, there is no definitive answer. It is really up for you to decide. Here are some hints though.
You can either buy online, or in person. In both cases you can buy either new or used.
When buying online, you cannot "feel" an object before getting it, compared to buying in person. However, in both cases it is possible to see obvious problems if you are careful enough and you ask questions. For used frames that would be crash damage. For new frames it would be manufacturing/QA issues, such as poor welds.
You would not be able to tell "hidden" problems in either case, such as internal cracks or poor welds hidden behind coating, so there is always risk of getting something unusable. For used frames, there is rarely a possibility to claim warranty. For new frames, it depends, and usually the law is on your side as long as you have proof of purchase.
Remember that a bike frame is not a small object in its dimensions. When buying it from overseas or even ordering the delivery by post, freight costs are likely to eat a considerable part of your budget. When buying in person, this is something that can be avoided. But when buying in person, there is a small chance of ending up robbed and getting nothing (again, I do not know where you live and how bad the situation is there)

I need a frame with disk brake mounts so it's hard to find a cheap bike just for the frame

Buying a bike just for the frame is almost always unwise when money is considered.


Converting Surly new hubs from 130mm to 120mm

No, this conversion isn't possible. The 130 version has a different shell than the 120. The flanges are further apart. That's the good way for them to have done it, because if they had used the same flange spacing throughout, that's wasting lateral strength on everything but the 120. If you look at your hub you'll see that there's not really anything you can take out to get the OLD down very much.


Are runners or pedestrians allowed to use the bike lane?

Most US State and Local laws are based on the Uniform Vehicle Code and American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) guidelines. They will normally have a phrase like:

  Where sidewalks are provided, it shall be unlawful for any pedestrian to walk along and upon an adjacent roadway.

And a phrase like:

  Where sidewalks are not provided, any pedestrian walking along and upon a highway shall, when practicable, walk only on the shoulder on the left side of the roadway.

So, the short answer is "no", but may be different wherever you are.

The longer answer is that just like cyclist are allowed to take the lane when conditions warrant, pedestrians are allowed there when conditions warrant.

Ultimately we are all trying to share a limited amount of space. Courtesy from all parties is always appreciated, and usually returned.


Data to convince teenager that blinking rear light is worth the "uncool" factor

After much searching for any possible statistics on flashing versus steady lights, I found none...only opinions, and lots of them! It seems people do recognize a flashing red rear light more quickly and from a greater distance away than a steady light, but as far as judging the distance to the bicycle rider the vehicle driver is, seems to be a problem for some. I use a flashing red light in the rear at all times. On cloudy overcast days and before sunset, I use a flashing white light at the front ( especially when the setting sun may be in the drivers eyes ). And of course a steady white light after sunset. Emergency vehicles have flashing lights for a purpose. You can see them coming from the front or the rear well before you may hear their siren, so the flashing lights do draw attention. Your 14 year old son will be just like other kids his age ( I know I was! ), and won't pay much attention to what you ask...until he has a "close call!" Kids his age think most drivers are about their parents ages. They don't really consider the elderly person driving down the street with 80 year old eyes or other problems, as being a danger to their activity on a bicycle. If he thinks the flashing light is "not cool", then there's a lot of flashing red light "nerds" in my area includiong me! I wish to live to ride another day, so I tend to attract as much attention to my position on the road way as possible. All you can do is "advise" and hope eventually they feel you're more right than they are. As long as he uses the rear light, that will give him more time to realize you're only looking out for his welfare.


Kurt Kinetic Trainer hard to release, should I grease?

According to an email I received from Kurt Kinetic, lubricating the threads is part of normal maintenance. I had to do it because my KK Rock&Roll started making an awful sound. Lubricating the threads fixed this.
Below is the response I received from them.

We're happy to hear that the trainer provides such great companionship on > those dark and cold evenings!
Below you'll find a basic trainer maintenance video that will address the squeaking noise that does not come from the elastomers.

In addition, please ensure that you're performing regular bike maintenance to eliminate any of other potential squeaking sources.


Best way to get rid of a "squeaky" bike?

It may be as simple as retightening your cranks onto the bottom bracket axle.

It fixed my everlasting squeak. (Not: square tapered bottom bracket axle)

I took the hint that the creak was strongest when bearing down on the left pedal.


Very sloppy shifting on smaller cogs (BSO)

OK Based on comments - your BSO rear derailler is not following the contour of your cassette, and is ending up a long way from the smaller cog.

It should be like this stylised image:

Doubtless you have some wear on the cassette, and the RD position is limiting the number of teeth that are actively engaged in the chain.

I bet on the big cog you've got 5/8 of the teeth meshed with the chain (~20 teeth) and on the little 14 you might have as few as 3/8 (~5 teeth)  so this accelerates wear, and fewer teeth meshed means skipping errors earlier.

You could try a new cassette and chain, if the cassette appears worn.

The other option would be check the rear derailler and see if you can make it move more diagonally

Another possibility is that your B-tension screw is too loose, or isn't even there.


The Brompton-listed set use a Busch & Muller lights - the IQ Cyo with the SON and one of the halogen lights with the Shimano.  All of the B&M lights use the same front mounting bracket to the top of the fork crown, so it looks like any of them would work.

Those brackets are also fairly easy to come by, and you could pretty easily modify any handlebar light to mount there as well - a piece of tubing and a bolt would be all it takes.  Or you can buy the official B&M one.

As far as recommendations, it really depends on your price sensitivity and how much lighting you need.  I really like the IQ Cyo, but at over $100USD it's pricy. Of course, compared to the $200 EDelux, that's a bargain.


Because there exist so many cassette styles and tooth profiles, no universal tool for measuring cassette wear exists.

One good advice to assist visual inspection is this. We all have our favorite speeds. Compare the most worn 2-3 cogs with the rest. If their profile is very different, the cassete is probably worn. The video documents how to do that.

There are many variables in determining whether you have a worn chainring or cassette. Visual inspection helps and noting the kilometres racked up should also help.

If you have set up your mech's correctly you will know you have wear when your chain starts to skip, especially under load. Visual inspection should then confirm your wear.

Park Tools do a CHAIN wear tool [CC-2] but that will not determine cassette or chainring wear.  When replacing a cassette you should always replace the chain. Worn chains will reduce the life of cassettes and chainrings considerable due to the chain being worn to the form of the previous cassette/chainring.

Here is a video of the pro's confirming the above:

Hope this helps.


No. Single speed freehubs have totally different spacing so you have a less dished wheel. You'll have to use spacers.


What is the difference between a threaded bottom bracket and one with press-fit bearings?

What is the purpose of a bottom bracket like the kinds sold by Shimano etc.?

The purpose of any bottom bracket (BB) made by any manufacturer is to allow cranks to freely rotate in the bottom bracket shell (part of the frame).

How does this differ from bearings, spacers and seals that are directly press-fit into a bike frame?

Different frames accept different types of BBs. Some of them are threaded into it, some are pressed into it. There are many incompatible designs of threaded BBs, and several incompatible types of press-fit BBs.

Are both used on the same frame, or do they serve the same purpose?

A frame is designed to accept either a variant of a threaded BB, or a variant of a press-fit BB. Seldom it is possible to modify the frame to accept a different type of BB.


Minimum mountain groupset hard enough to resist abuse

Note: this is mostly based on my personal experience. Its an
  incredibly subjective subject, so there is no right answer. Keep in
  mind that in reality one level up or down will be completely
  unnoticeable performance difference to most riders.

XT is considered the "Sweet spot" for performance, weight and durability.  Probably X9 in the SRAM range. XTR and X0 are for sponsored riders, rich competitive riders and those that have to be seen to have the best because they will never be...

Alivo is definitely entry level and although it starts out OK, is less durable and quickly becomes unreliable if used hard. Deore and X7 are known for good durability - not up to  XT in quality and feel and durability - but not far behind. IMHO Deore and X7 are a good price point for a budget conscious weekend warrior - especially if you can get last years stuff at a good price.

So depending on your budget, I would recommend looking towards Deore  or SRAM X7 level gear. From you post, I suspect XT is too good for the bike and you won't get the advantage of the extra $$$.

So where is you problem? The bike "was good once" - so the level of the gear is not the problem. I suspect the gear on it is worn out.....

I would start with a close look at the chain lines - check the Bottom bracket for movement, and check the derailleur hanger for alignment (LBS has a tool for this). Check the cables are moving freely - I suggest replace the rear derailleur if you have any doubt or its more than a year old. All this is low or no cost and can make an enormous difference if they are out.

Assuming these are OK, I would start with a closer look at the chain, cluster and chain rings. Especially check the chain is clean and free running, with no tight links. If these have not been replaced recently, its the first thing to consider. At the same time, check the derailleur for movement - this is hard if you are not experienced. A little is OK, a lot not - and how to tell - got the LBS and look at some new bikes, look at some mates bikes.

Here is where you can start throwing money into a seemingly bottom less pit, so be careful. Don't feel the need to replace with higher spec components; don't go up more than 1, at a stretch 2 levels - so Alivio to Deore is OK, Alivio to XT - think very carefully. Keep it all about the same.

You are likely to find that parts prices mean an upgrade of bike is worth considering. A MTB is more than the drive line - tires, shocks, frame geometry all make a bigger difference than smooth gear changes.


What tools should I carry around to replace the tube on a bike with bolt-on wheels while on the road?

Option 1 - Nothing

Many fixed gear riders are short distance, and tend to be close to home.  The creed is to remove superfluous things from the bike making it lighter and simpler.  Why carry tools at all?   All you need is a cellphone, or some way to pay for taxi.

Some tyres have a phenomenal puncture resistance, so this makes punctures less likely, at the cost of weight and/or rolling resistance.  Solid tyres are the extreme version of this.

Option 2 - Sealant

If you have tubeless tyres with sealant or tubes with a puncture sealant inside, the idea is that punctures will self-seal and retain the air pressure.  Personally it just slowed the leak down a bit, and wasn't worth the four-fold cost.

Option 3 - All the tools for the job

Adjustable spanner or ring spanner that fits your bike axle nuts
One or two tyre levers, generally plastic
Air, either a pump (frame or mini) or a CO2 inflator and cannister.
Spare tube(s) of the right size.  These can be a patched and tested ones.  I carry one for each 50 km of riding expected, so 3 for a 120 km.
OPTIONAL Patch kit, or sticker patches - these are for when you're used or shared your tubes.
OPTIONAL rubber or nitrile gloves, for keeping clean
OPTIONAL wet wipes or a rag for cleanups.
Something to carry all this in securely.

The larger pumps are likely to mount to the frame, but smaller ones can be bagged with the other tools.  Under-Seat nad-bags are popular - I store mine in a high-vis grellow-coloured velcro or zip closed cloth bag, which is velcro-tied under the top tube, straight behind the headtube so its out of the way.  On the tandem, its valcro-strapped to the bottom of the front seat tube, just above the keel tube, again out of the way.

You may as well add a bike minitool with all the hex drivers etc.  I also carry a presta-schrader adapter, a chain masterlink and cableties in my on-bike toolkit.

Each of my bikes has the same stuff duplicated.  I wouldn't want to flat on the road bike and find I brought a 26" MTB tube by mistake!

Finally, littering.  Don't be that guy and leave your dead tube on the roadside.  Instead take it home and patch it properly with the 10 minute glue in the comfort of home.  Test it inflated overnight to 10-20 PSI naked, then empty it, roll it, and its your next on-bike spare.  Tubes are fine with a dozen patches, as long as they don't leak, and a 50c patch is cheaper than a $5 tube.


How To Choose A Proper Sprocket Combination For A Road Bike Cassette?

I doubt many people would change cassette based on occasion, but I suppose it is possible - it isn't too onerous a task to swap a cassette out. But certainly I (and I suspect others too) will fit a cassette once and it will stay on the wheel for its lifetime.

I think the key thing with a cassette choice is basically how close (in terms of number of teeth) adjoining sprockets are to each other.

In one of the extreme cases, where each sprocket has one more tooth than the last, this gives a really smooth riding experience. But the flip-side, of course, is that you have only a small range of gears. If you are riding in varied terrain, this can be a problem.

Cassettes with sprockets as large as e.g. 28 are actually quite a recent thing (for road bikes), as technology has improved. These improve the range of the cassette significantly, making climbing easier, for example. The downside is that sometimes there is a 2 or 3 tooth difference between adjacent sockets, and the "changing" experience is not so smooth.

Again in terms of the range of gears, having larger sprockets at the back can also have advantages at the front - for example you may be able to get away with a double chainset whereas a few years ago, you'd have bought a triple.

So essentially, having a large sprocket (28, say) will give you flexibility when climbing.  Having a small sprocket (11, say) will give you an advantage when travelling on the flat at speed (sprinting, if you like). Whereas a cassette with a small range will give you a smoother experience when actually changing. How much smoother is open to question, however.

In terms of what cassette a beginner should use, I would say it is dependent on how strong a cyclist you are. If you are less strong, and will be climbing, then it is almost a no-brainer to go for a large-range cassette. Similarly if you're a strong rider, going to ride flat time trials, then it probably makes sense to get a small-range cassette. And unless you are a good, seasoned cyclist, it is unlikely that you will see any advantage of an 11T ring over a 12T ring - frankly you do a very small amount of riding in top gear.

One last point to explicitly address your mention of weather. As far as cassettes go, weather is irrelevant. You'd do other things related to weather (for example drop your tyre pressure in the rain) but you wouldn't change cassette.


Rear wheel drop-out adjustment (1-speed)

I would not ride that bike, for brake reasons.

1) The rear rim brakes would be out of position.  Hopefully you've re-adjusted the brake pads.  However rim brakes would be safer than other brakes given that dropout.

2) If you have a coaster brake (ie a backpedal brake)  then a hard stop could tear the axle out the front of the dropout, using the ground as a lever-fulcrum.

3) If you have a drum brake (which is possible given I can see a cable outer and the axle is hollow, perhaps its just not connected in the photos) then the same as for backpedal brakes.

Your safe answer is to simply buy and fit a longer chain.   Yes its annoying.


Why did my rear derailleur fail in the middle sprocket?

From the information available I would advise you to make sure:

Chain is of correct length
Derailleur is not running too close to the cassette (B-screw adjustment)

In the workstand pay close attention to what happens with chain on the largest chainring and simultaneously shifting towards the largest sprockets, especially if shifting several gears at once.

I've seen cases where the chain and derailleur can get jammed with the cassette here when derailleur is setup too close to cassette, leading to situations such as this.


If I had this frame, I would look again at those frames that most resembled it. Rather than a tiny manufacturer that nobody anywhere can recall, it's much more likely that a relatively sophisticated frame like yours is a pre-production model, or a sponsored rider version that differs significantly from the commercially sold model. That's why you can't find that exact frame elsewhere in order to identify it.

I think you've already seen a picture of the descendant or tweaked version of this frame, but you didn't realise the connection, you only noticed the differences.

The frame having no frame number is another pointer to it being most likely a custom-built for a pro rider or being a development model, not a production bike. Some machines in these categories have no serial no. at all, some have a low number, or just initials, or a combination of both, often stamped in an unusual place on the frame.

Someone who was around the racing circuit when this frame was current might remember it - the marks of extensive use seem to indicate that it might have been raced at some time.


What are the metal shavings in my bottom bracket from?

Some possibilities:

The seat tube or theoretically the head tube was reamed after the bottom bracket was installed, either at the factory or during assembly or service.
A little deposit of cuttings somehow got lodged in the seat tube or down tube from any of the many manufacturing steps that could create them, perhaps sticking to the inside of the tube with the help of some cutting fluid, and they made it all the way through the process but came loose over time once the bike started being ridden.
Some kind of simple brain fart, or laziness, or apathy, or some combination thereof on the part of whoever reamed the shell or seattube or assemeble the BB/cranks at the factory.
One corner case scenario that's theoretically possible with all cartridge bearing bike components is the bearing seizes due to extreme wear, alignment, fit, and/or quality issues (maybe some other factors too) and the spindle, axle, or bearing bore they're supposed to have stationary contact with is now a dynamic contact, which will start wearing away material, in this case from the crank spindle. If something like that did happen here I'd have no idea how the material got lost in such a shaving-like way, but I've seen weirder

It's not necessarily connected to the creak in any way. BB30 is simply prone to creaks.


How should a competitive cyclist approach hills?

I'm totally amateur but my understanding is competitive types are in it to win, which means being across the line first.  This answer is race-focussed.

The answer varies slightly depending on whether you're in a bunch or riding solo.

A racer really wants to stay with the bunch in order to maximise aero advantage and cooperative assistance.  If the racer "falls of the back" then its very much harder to catch up the group.

So a climb is a great way for the Strategically-Minded to break up the group.   A strong climber might rest up a bit in the approach to the climb, and then blast off the front when the road pitches up or when the group looses its initial momentum from the flat.

The point is to leave someone behind so they can't catch up without a herculean effort.

Most riders downhill at roughly similar speeds so once the front rider has gained 10 seconds lead that could be 50-100 metres gap once they're both on the downhill.

Pacing doesn't really come into it in a race - you keep up, or you drop off.  If that means you go "into the red" on a climb then so be it - recover on the downhill, or realise you entered a race beyond your current ability.

This is why its really important to know the course in a race, having either ideally ridden it before or at least had a good study of the route map via google street view or by topological maps.

Riding competitively solo (like a time trial or setting a PR in strava) is all about getting the best overall time for the measured length.  Since there's no pack there's no assist from being in a bunch.  Instead you have to hit the start of the segment at a decent speed and maintain it as high as possible. Don't wear yourself out getting to the race either... take that easy.  If the grade pitches up, don't mash, get up and put some extra power in to maintain a high speed as possible.   After the segment you push through the end point and go on a bit, then you can slow down.

Some of my best hill climbs are when I've been chasing someone, not necessarily someone I know, just someone ahead of me who has a decent turn of speed. (ie they've just passed me :)


What is the origin country of the bicycle brand called Longhorn?

You can find and answer in this article:
https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/archive/features/indian-bicycle-industry-losing-sheen-336950

In fact, a couple of firms here have started manufacturing bicycles abroad. Suneet Syal from Vinsun Enterprises said they were manufacturing bicycles by the name of Longhorn and Chase in China and importing these here*.

*India


Can aftermarket 32mm Dust Seals and Foam Rings be used on my Rockshox Recon?

You need to check whether your fork uses flanged or flangeless seals. Both are available for 32mm stanchions, and it’s specific to each model which version is needed.
I’d just perform a service without changing the seals. If you insist, the foam rings should be fine (it’s just a open-cell foam ring, duh), but I wouldn’t want to use the third-party seals long-term. There’s no guarantee they seal as well as the real deal or that they have similarly low friction levels. It’s not worth it saving a few bucks while risking expensive fork damage, and your existing seals will survive another few months or however long it takes to track down the right kit.


Why are my Shimano 105 11-speed shifter/derailleur acting like they're 10-speed?

It's evident from your first picture that there is definitely a pretty bad derailleur cage alignment issue.

The derailleur hanger does not appear bent, but it does look like the derailleur bolt may be cross threaded , as the derailleur body seems to be at an angle to the hanger.

Check the derailleur installation and also check that the cage is not bent.


How do I separate hydraulic disc brake pads after pulling the brake while the wheel is off?

As mentioned try a blunt bladed instrument (A large flat blade screwdriver will do) to pry the pads back in. Just put the screwdriver between the pads and lever the pads apart evenly!
Just be carful though as sometimes the pistons that push the pads out can come out too far resulting in the pistons being slighly out of line, however if the pads have plenty of material left on them you should be fine to just lever them back in with the screwdriver, ther will be some resistance as you will also be pushing against the pistons and fluid pressure.


Freewheel replacement for a touring tandem bike

I think in this situation, to avoid an "upgrade spiral", you will be better off changing your chainrings. Chainrings are not overly expensive and probably won't require new derailleurs or shifters.
I have been known to take apart freewheels and change the cogs. I've even re-spaced them or changed the numbers of speeds. But if you want an overall lower gear, you should probably change your chainrings.


Help identifying the model and year of this classic steel, women's bike

The bike was manufactured by BSA, the chainring is an obvious clue, it's also a "ladies" model (parallel top tube). Looks very similar this 1975 BSA Wayfarer. The linked post has a lot of detailed photos you can compare the frame to. Pay attention to chainring with BSA letters, arrows on chormed fork crown, rear dropouts and dropout eyelets, tube taper at seatstay/seatpost junction.

Here's how I went with search: "lettered chainring", "sprocket with letters", "bsa retro bicycle ladies", "bsa bikes retro catalog", "1970 bsa wayfarer".


Pins and needles in my fingers after long rides

Talk to a doctor

The symptoms of waking up with tingly fingers make this sound consistent with carpal tunnel syndrome to my non-doctor opinion.

Basically, as I understand it, a little bit of that now and then isn't a problem, but too much over time causes damage which can be permanent and cause some major hand problems.

There's a bundle of nerves and tendons that run through a narrow channel in your wrist. Pressure on that area, or using the tendons with the wrist in a non-neutral position can, over time cause problems. That can mean biking and typing are causing you trouble. Pressure on these nerves will tend to cause numbness and tingling in the thumb, index, middle and part of your ring finger. Vibration of the hands (such as from rough ground) could be the main problem instead of pressure.

There's also the ulnar nerve on the "pinky" side of your hand that can have the same kind of problems.  Pressure on this nerve (or stretching/hyperextension) will tend to cause numbness and tingling in the pinky finger and part of your ring finger.

Diagnosing exactly which problem you have is best done by a doctor, not the internet.

Assuming you talk to your doctor and they suggest avoiding the hand pressure your bike is causing, some things to help avoid these problems on your bike include:

Get a professional bike fitting
Don't hold the bars tightly, hold them loosely
Gloves with padding matching the pads of your palm (no pad on central channel, that will make things worse).  Sadly many gloves aren't really designed to help, so you have to know what to look for.
Some bar grips are designed to help
Changing how you ride to put less pressure on your hand (use core muscles to hold body up)
Raise handlebars and/or move them closer to you so that you have less pressure on your hands
Handlebar ends to give more hand positions
Different style handlebars (new bike with drop bars?) for more hand positions, preferably with main position not putting pressure in center of palm
Vary your hand positions more often.  If you have bars that allow multiple hand positions, use them.
Take breaks during your ride.  Even just taking your hands off the bars for a minute at a stop light could help.
There may be stretches you can do during such breaks to help
Pedal harder/faster. If you pedal hard enough, you'll find yourself pulling your body down with the handlebars instead of pressing down on your hands.
Run your tires at a lower pressure. Replace with fatter tires if necessary. This should help reduce road vibration.

Some references:

http://www.hughston.com/hha/a_15_3_2.htm
http://www.webmd.com/pain-management/carpal-tunnel/carpal-tunnel-syndrome-topic-overview
http://www.ninds.nih.gov/disorders/carpal_tunnel/detail_carpal_tunnel.htm
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmedhealth/PMH0001469/
http://www.mackinacislandnews.com/news/2007-06-30/news/014.html


It might be salvageable but the cost of:

new chain ($10)
new tires and tubes ($25)
rear cluster (maybe; $20)
new brake cables and pads ($10)
new derailleur cables ($10)

which is the minimal repair, is going to be around $75 in just parts, that’s if you get the dirt cheapest versions. If any of your bearings or hubs are seized, you’ll need to rebuild them which isn’t expensive in terms of parts (just bearings and grease), but is labor intensive and requires special tools.

You’ll quickly get to the price of a good used bike if you have to pay labor and even if you do it yourself, you’ll quickly rack up a bill.

I’d sell the frame to someone who wants to rebuild it and already has all the parts — or find a donor bike with a cracked frame that you can steal all the parts from.


Replacing bike frame on BMC Alpenchallenge AC01

If the new frame is the same frame model and year (the aluminum Alpenchallenge frame, that was used on a higher spec bike, and came with a carbon fiber fork), there should be no compatibility problems. Seat tube diameter, steerer diameter, bottom bracket shell, disc mounts, hub widths etc. should all be the same.

I note that the Alpenchallenge comes in both derailleur and internally geared hub versions. The internal hub version has a means to spit the drive side seat stay to install a Gates Drive belt and a eccentric bottom bracket shell. Obviously, make sure you are getting this version.

Other issues you might run into:

If the chain stays on both frames are not the same length you might have to get a different length belt.

You'll probably have to replace rear brake and shifter cables and housings as the run length will be slightly longer.

The medium size may have come with a slightly longer stem than the small, but that may not be a problem for you.

Don't forget to check for any special tools you might need.  Bottom brackets typically need installation tools, but I'm not sure about eccentric types.


Crank preload is there to ensure that cranks are not over tightened so that they cause premature failure of the bearings. It allows the cranks to be "finger tightened" prior to the pinch bolts been done up to the right torque. It's a way of ensuring the spacing is correct on the crank axle.


Patched inner tube helped by pressure against tire?

It's not necessary for the tube to have the external pressure of being installed in a tire. If patched correctly the patch will hold just fine if there are days or months before it is used.

My normal habit is to travel with a spare tube. When I flat, I switch the tube out, and carry the old one home where I patch it later. In my garage I have a box of patched tubes that I reuse as spares and the patches always hold.

If you wait a few minutes after patching, you can, as you ask, fill it with air outside of a tire, and the patch should still hold. In fact doing that and then dunking the tube in a basin of water can be a good way to test that the patch was installed correctly before you deflate it and store it for later use.


Can I use 25.4mm bullhorn brakes on a 26mm handlebar?

It seems like you're confusing the clamp diameter with the grip area diameter.

26 mm is a standard road bike clamp diameter (i.e. where the handlebar attaches to the stemp) and 25.4 mm is a standard mountain bike clamp diameter. Your stem needs to match the clamp diameter. The clamp diameter and stem must match exactly.

The grip area diameters need to match for the brakes (which are 22.2 mm for mountain bike stuff and 23.8 mm for road bike stuff).

Most bullhorns are typically 23.8 mm grip area, so they can use road bike levers.


What can cause narrow disc brake gap in TRP Spyre-C?

That's an uncommon problem for mechanical disc calipers and I have a guess what's going on.

Spyres and Spykes are generally good brakes but they have the quirk that the pad adjusters can get a little stuck. When this happens, the adjuster will feel seized, but if you're only trying to turn it out, that could be mistaken for it being retracted all the way. Try turning it both ways to confirm it's moving freely.

If it is stuck, what's always worked for me is take a higher-leverage 3mm wrench in very good condition (to minimize the risk of rounding the wrench flats) and just pop it free. It can take more force than you'd normally want or expect to be putting on a 3mm allen, and when it frees it makes a scary 'pop,' but then works normally again.

If both pad adjusters are known to be moving freely and all the way retracted and the cable isn't even attached and the arm is known to be all the way in its starting position, that kind of only leaves some kind of internal problem with the brake, and I don't know what that would be.


With what you envision - A single cog in the rear and a triple crankset up front - you would still require a rear derailleur to take up the chain slack since the chainrings have such large difference in diameter. A chain tensioner would not cope with the slack created from shifting from a 42 to a 32 tooth chainring, for instance.

Since you'll need a rear derailleur for a multiple gear solution anyway, you might as well go with a cassette and single chainring.

For disc brakes you're limited to mechanical (like Avid BB7s, TRP Spyre) or the cable actuated hydraulic calipers (TRP HyRd) unless you spring for shimano Di2.

The closest you'll get to a track/road frame that has the necessarry reinforcements and mounts for disc brakes is likely a cyclocross bike or some of the newer endurance road bikes (Trek Domane as an example).

You're unlikely to get something exactly as you envision, but with a few compromises (cyclocross with a cassette) you should be able to make things work.