Is there a technique/tool to assist with rear derailleur high, low, and index alignment?

Well, the first thing to check is if the derailleur (usually the hanger) is bent. There is a tool for the case of a bent hanger, namely the Park Tool DAG-2. You should also visually inspect for the derailleur pulleys to be aligned in the right way.

Then, you do the standard derailleur adjustments, which you'll get right after practicing (limit screws, B-screw, indexing).

The whole thing becomes a combination of visual inspection and testing and practice, as DRH remarked in the comments. But most cyclists who are going to do their own maintenance will have to deal with this a bunch of times in their life time anyway, so they'll get used to it. And cyclists who don't do their own maintenance will likely just be fiddling with the indexing adjustment a bit and if something more is necessary (e.g. if they had a crash), they'd head to a shop.


optimum frame size for very small 5'2" female

My wife is 5' 2" and raced elite road for many years.  For her proportions 48-49 cm frames seemed to work well.  Sometime she had mentioned interest  in a smaller frame, but when I looked at how she fit on the bike I think it was due to flexibility issues (at that time) rather than frame sizing issues.

Of course this is one person's experience and therefore not a canonical answer. There are a lot of factors, other than frame size, that govern fit, but 48/49cm is likely a good starting point for someone 5'2".

NOTE: different brands will have slightly different fit dimensions (stack and reach) for the same quoted frame size. Frame sizing is  not standardized.


Misc bottom backet and crankset questions

That's a lot of questions but I think I can answer most of them with a couple of answers.

With respect to cartridge bottom brackets and cranks (Square taper, Octalink etc.):

The cartridge need to be appropriate for the frame bottom bracket shell width (traditionally 68mm for road bike and 73mm for mountain)
The axle length need to be correct for the specific crank you are using to get the correct chain line. It's critical to know that different model cranks need different length axles to get the same chainline, so you need to look up the specifications for the crank to find out the bottom bracket axle length required.

With respect to Hollowtech II (and other external threaded bearing systems like GXP), things are a bit simpler, because the drive side crank comes with the axle attached. The axle length is just whatever is required for the bottom bracket shell width the crank is designed for. You do have to pick a crank that gives the correct chainline for your frame of course.

With respect to deviation from the correct chainline if you use a different cartridge BB than the crank is designed for, I would not recommend being more than a few millimeters out. If the chainrings are to far inboard you may get interference with the chainstay, too far outboard can result in derailleur reach problems.

If you are using Shimano products you can look up the specifications for cranks, which includes nominal chainline the bottom bracket models that work. Start here: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/spec.


Are there other explanations for slow tyre pressure loss?

Could be a faulty valve that only leaks under high pressure.  You won't be able to find this kind of thing by putting it under water because there's no way you'll get the tube up to 100 psi while it isn't on the rim with the tire on.  It could also be due to very very small holes in the tube, again which don't make any difference until the tire is at very high pressure.  You may be able to test this if you fill the tire up to full pressure and then leave it in the bath tub or other large sink.  you should be able to see if air is escaping from the valve this way. Not sure if you would be able to see air escaping from very small holes in the tube though as they might not be visible due to the tire/rim.


Pedals rotate backwards when I move the (rear) wheel in reverse direction

There is nothing to fix, most of the hub works like that. It is normal behaviour implied by the hub internal design.
If you really want your pedal not to rotate when moving bike backwards, you can move to single speed, coaster brake, traditional Velosteel hub. Personally strongly dissuade.

edit after comment:

This photo should explain why wheel is not conjugated with chain, while no force is applied on the pedal. At the right side we can see rollers in its housing. It slides back and forth.

This photo is even better. 2 clutches. Moving forward pushes right against hub housing, conjugating sprocket with hub housing.
Moving backwards pushes left against coaster brake pad. Pads does not rotate because of being engaged with brake arm attached to frame. Because of friction hub housing start to conjugate with brake pad.

No force applied - everything disengaged.


A chain is in danger of snapping when it develops a weakness. It will fail when the force on it exceeds the strength of the weakest park.

The rider might exceeds the strength of a weakened chain through high-force pedaling stokes, when accelerating from a standstill perhaps.

Another way the strength might be exceeded is through a short but high 'shock' load on the chain, that might be induced by a gear change, but without very high pedaling force. Think of the 'clunks' you sometimes get when changing to a smaller sprocket in the rear.

What I suspect happened in your case is that the front derailleur imparted a lateral bending force on the chain at a weak point which in conjunction with pedaling force caused it to fail.


How do I get rid of this clicking sound in the back wheel?

The problem could be the lubrication on the rear hub. Perhaps it wasn't well greased at the factory. A tune-up should have caught this problem, particularly as you mentioned it. Another possibility is that there is a ball bearing missing from the rear hub, so that once every time the wheel turns around, the axle falls into the small gap created by the missing bearing (this happened on my daughter's new bike after about 3 months of occasional riding).

If the bike is still under warranty, then I would take it in. The problem should have been fixed the first time.

If you want to try fixing it yourself, you will have to take off the rear wheel and disassemble the hub. This isn't hard, but if you've never done it before, try finding a local bike shop that will show you how. Some towns have co-op bike repair shops where for a small fee you can use their tools and there will be a mechanic on hand to guide you.
(for example Ottawa - http://www.re-cycles.ca, Waterloo - http://www.theworkingcentre.org/ct/cycles/cycles.html) Try looking at this wiki for a shop near you.


Passing cars on the right, and later merging into their lane

Seems to me that your best option is choice 2: Signal to the left in advance of running out of the lane, check for a reasonable gap in the cars while still moving, and merge into that gap once you've determined that it's safe.

In that option you are essentially behaving like exactly what you are - a slow moving vehicle.  Your behavior is like what you would expect if you were operating a tractor, or a horse-drawn carriage.  You operate in the lane when neccessary, move over to the right to allow others to pass when safe and convenient, and carefully merge back into the traffic lane when the shoulder is no longer safe.

While doing this you want to avoid weaving in and out of traffic every few feet.

This is also similar and predictable behavior much like what you need to do when the shoulder runs out as a right-turn only lane blocks your path.

Option 1 is unsatisfactory because you lose momentum and will have a difficult time merging.

Option 3 is a poor choice, not from the issue of passing cars on the right (which while legal in many areas, is dangerous), but because it's rude and then forces cars to pass you later - playing leapfrog.

Option 4 is a possibility, but then again, think about operating a 'slow moving vehicle.'  If you are consistently the same speed as motorists, you may stay in the lane, particularly if the shoulder is unsafe, otherwise, move over and let them pass.

Option 5 is the poorest choice.  You may be able to cross against the light safely, but not only is it risky, it makes you a poor ambassador of cycling, causing motorists to be angry at other cyclist, and frequently puts you back in the leapfrog situation.  Plus, you could get a ticket, at least in my town.


I would say that you should definitely work more on long bike rides and less on strength training. You can always wimp out on the hills and put it in an easy gear.  If the max you have done is 70km, then you really need to work on the distance part of it.

Another important thing to train for is how to fuel yourself during the ride.  Most moderately fit people could probably do 70 km without worrying about how to properly hydrate and eat during the ride. But when you get up around 200 km, you really have to think about how to eat and drink in the correct amounts so that you don't "bonk" when you are out on the road.


How to nail clipping into race pedals without looking?

The best way is to practice, practice, practice!

Do it enough times and it'll become second nature.

When I was first starting with my road pedals (Keos, but they're pretty similar) I would push my shin against them after setting off to steady them before trying to clip in.


Shimano Revoshift twist grip unusably tight

As per AndyP’s comment, I have also heard anecdotally that these styles of shifters can be stiff for children’s hands, but then again some thumb push trigger shifters can feel quite stiff to my adult thumbs.

As you mention it is most difficult for your daughter to access first gear, I would investigate or have the shop check the Lower Limit screw on the derailleur. If this is set a fraction too tight then the shifter is trying to pull tension against this limit. If this screw is set too tight then the shop should adjust it to the correct position as part of the labour you’ve already paid for. It’s probably only a fraction of a turn.

Otherwise, changing to a trigger shifter unit needn’t be very expensive, but I would try models out and find which suits your daughter’s hand strength the best. if you’re quoting AUD price then maybe it includes the part cost and a minimum labour charge and that’s how much it costs to have work done on bikes where you are.

It has been suggested by an anonymous edit, from a person who had a similar problem, to double check the cable placement at the derailleur fixing bolt. For example this extract from the Shimano Tourney Dealer's manual


How can I protect cables in inclement weather?

I wrenched for a cyclocross team and those bikes see pretty torrential conditions. How are you cleaning the cables? If you're just cleaning them as they are on the bike it probably won't do much good. You need to take the housing out of its stops.

How to do this:
Rear derailleur: Shift your bike into the largest/inner rear cog. Now WITHOUT turning the crank click the shifter as if you were shifting into the smallest/outer rear cog. This will create slack in the cable and you'll be able to easily pop the housing out of its stops.
Front derailleur: Shift into the big ring. Now WITHOUT turning the crank click the shifter as if shifting into the inner/smaller ring. Again, you create slack and be able to pop the housing from its stops.
Brakes: You need to release the brakes. On a side pull there is usually a quick release lever on the caliper itself. On cantilevers you need to unhook one end of the straddle cable. Again, this puts slack in the lines and you can pop the housing out.

Once you have the housing free of its stops you can slide it to one end of the cable and wipe down the cable then slide it back to the other end and wipe the remaining cable.

It only takes a minute or two to do this. Do it after every wet/muddy ride and cables should last all season.

The more extreme and effective solution is to run full length cable housing. Basically if you have non stop housing from brake/shift lever all the way to the derailleur/brake there won't be as many points for grit to enter. This is how all bikes used to be but in the 80s everyone went to split stops because it was cheaper for manufacturers and also because more housing means more housing compression and that means spongier brakes and less precise shifting. Modern housing is much better than the stuff from 30 years ago so that need is no longer as great. Thanks to the rise of hydraulic brakes there are now little adapters designed to plug into the split cable stops to hold hydraulic lines in place. These same adapters can be used to hold full length housing in place and I've seen guys use them for the rear brake and derailleur cables on cross bikes. Here's an example: http://problemsolversbike.com/products/housing_guides


Medium size cargo solution for road-bike for commuting

I would really recommend re-looking at a backpack.  There are a large variety of packs out there and the drybag styles ones seem to get better every year.  I have found that a backpack is a more dynamic way to carry weight.  You might look for one with better airflow built into the padding section.  I find that if I dress just a little more lightly and have a pack with good airflow, "sweaty back" is a bit less of a problem.

If you can't find a drybag style pack that works for you, you could always look for a base pack that fits all your requirements and then just stuff a uber-light drybag in it.

Along those lines, you might also look at Revelate Designs new holster bag.  Essentially it sits under your seat and provides a secure place to stuff a drysack with ease of on/off for the drysack.  Your personal opinion will dictate whether it meets requirement 6 or not.


Looking to replace 700c tires with mountain bike like tires

Obviously, your tire needs to be 700c. Larger sized 700c tires (e.g. for mountain biking) are sold as 29" tires. In theory, any 700c/29" tire will fit on the rim. However, you want to match the tire size to the rim width to the rim you have (lest you have bad handling/rim failure by fitting a too big tire). As for the maximum size you can put in, it is also determined by the frame. You need a few mm of clearance (at least 3 mm) between the tire and the frame. You can measure your current tires clearance and use that as a rough guideline for the tire size you can go up to (even though two tires are marked as the same size, there will be some variation to the sizes, which can affect clearance).

It looks like the bike ships with 700x37 tires, which are quite large to begin with. If you want more comfort, you can try running a lower pressure. If you want knobs, I'd look at a cyclocross tire. There are tons of variations, but if you're on a clean road, you don't want too much knob since that just adds resistance, noise and reduces handling. For snow on the road, some knobs can be helpful.


They'll be fine - I'd certainly use them without question in a 23mm tyre.

Most tubes cover a range like 18-25 and 25-38.  Given 23 and 25 are in the same range I'd expect it to work correctly.

If you have access to a spare 23 and these 25mm tubes, compare them.  I bet they're identical in size, or so close to it that the difference is immaterial.

Tubes are consumables, you'll use them up eventually.

Other options:

Stick one in your saddle bag as the last resort second spare.
Give them away.
Buy a 25mm tyre and try it out (if your bike frame can fit one)


I don't see any problem with doing this on your bike if you use Shimano drifters. Generically there are two areas you'll need to consider:

The actuation ratio of the shifters, and
The brake pull.

Shimano 9-speed road and mountain derailers use the same actuation ratio. You should be OK here.

You don't mention which Surly touring frame you have so I can't be specific, but if its a Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker, your odds are good that the brakes will be compatible as well. With cantilevers you'll be OK as road and mountain versions use the same pull. V brakes will be a problem, they are not common on road bikes and the pull is different. I don't think know of a set of brifters for V-brakes. Similarly with discs, make sure that you are have, or are willing to switch, to road discs.


If you break more spoke you can use the least damaged ones temporarily, understanding that they might break, but will probably last two weeks.

Save yourself a from future headaches by addressing adjustment of the lower limit on your rear derailleur, or getting a spoke protector, or both.


Kid's bike - Can I put 20" wheel on a frame that was meant for 18" wheels?

There are several different 18" sizes, and several different 16" sizes. See Sheldon Brown's tire sizing page

If the 18" is the 355mm used by Birdy, and the 16" is the 349mm used by Brompton, that's close enough that it might be possible.

People have converted Birdys from 18" to narrower 20" (406mm) by moving the brake posts (see "brakeboss relocator").

I changed the obsolete 500A (440mm) tyres (and chromed steel rims) on an old Dawes Kingpin folder to 20" (406mm) ones on alloy rims, the widest ones that would fit in the fork to reduce the bottom bracket drop, and was able to find suitable brakes to fit.

But for a typical child's bike, I very much doubt it's worth it.


Bikepedia list the Trek 7100 as having been in production from 2002-2012. In some cases you can determine the year of production by seeing which color combinations or components were available for a particular year. Bicycle values are difficult to state as they change over time and can vary greatly by geographic area. The msrp was highest at the mid $400 range. Your best bet is to look at similar bikes with similar component levels and compare price and condition.

.


Rotor size is unrelated to wheel size, but your fork will have a maximum rated size. Any larger than the rated size will put you at risk of a (literally) fatal breakage. Disk brakes dump a lot of torque into the fork. Have a look near the calliper mounts and there might be advice on maximum rotor size.
A bike of that vintage will probably want 180mm or 160mm rotors. A nominal configuration would be 180 front & 160 rear.
Take a look at your hubs. Do they have 6 bolt holes on the non drive side to attach rotors? If not you need new wheels. Unless you already know how to build wheels, don’t bother with replacing hubs. Seek a pair of disk ready wheels.


At what point should you stop repairs and get a new bike instead?

If doing the work by yourself, and your are satisfied with the frame, never.
If you replace the whole bike, you have to purchase each and every of its parts in a package. Usually the package is not very good: for example, many manufacturers save money by using non-Shimano parts in a less visible location like wheel hub. Those wheel hubs will be hard to replace -- in fact, replacement of the hub is probably one of the hardest replacement jobs in a bike.
If you replace only a failed part, you have to purchase replacement just for that particular part.
Not only that, but by replacing failed parts, you have the opportunity to customize your bike by selecting which replacement part to purchase. You won't have that opportunity if you purchase a whole bike. Very often, after observing a failure, you have the opportunity to purchase a more durable part to replace the cheap part that failed.
I would argue that purchase of a new bike is a good idea only if its frame can do something your current frame cannot do. For example, some modern frames are asymmetric in the rear to allow even spoke tension in the rear wheel. If rear wheel is what isn't working for you, perhaps this asymmetry could help. Similarly, new frames may support disc brakes whereas old frames probably do not. Also, many new bikes have electric assist whereas old frames cannot accept electric assist motors.
As an example, I bought a new drop bar e-bike that hasn't arrived yet. I am not happy with its component choices. It is not a good bike. It is the least poor e-bike I found. I bought it because my current frame does not accept a Bosch motor, because the frame was designed before the era of motors.


Cannot raise V-brake blocks high enough to align with wheel rim

You will find (usually an allen/hex key) bolt on the brake pad itself. Loosen that, align your brake pads then re-tigthen. You may also need to adjust again on the bars to get it to fit.

You will also find it easier when loose and aligning them, to pull the brakes right up to the rim and tighten the bolts.

Everything you need to know you will find here: http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html


Don't cut hubs or respace hubs for this purpose. People who say to do that don't understand how compromised the left to right side tension disparity becomes. And it's not possible with a nonstandard axle set like the one you propose.

Which way to go really depends on whether you're talking about modernizing the drivetrain. You can just respace the frame to 130 with near total impunity if you want a modern group or some aspects of one. The spacing and rear triangle alignment requires string and a 2x4. You'll need dropout alignment tools to do the job right and don't let anyone say otherwise.

Respacing rather than slamming it in is better at preventing fatigue failure over time. There are many questions here about this. Dropout alignment is critical to preventing fatigue failures after a rear end has been respaced.

If you were going to half-convert the drivetrain, ie keep most of the existing parts but make it 7 or 8 speed friction with a cassette hub, Mavic wheels are somewhat of a uniquely poor choice because they've essentially always been 11-speed compatible with the extreme tension disparity and poor drive side bracing angle to boot. Not to say it'd be the end of the world, but you give up something for nothing there I feel. Better to get a common 8/9/10 hub in that case.

If you wanted to keep it 126 freewheel and get a new classic type wheelset, you could go either VO as you say, or the cheaper Origin8 RD-2100, a Quando hub that probably exists by other names as well. If you're US, the wheelsets that J&B does with that hub and which any shop can sell you are a good value for doing this sort of project for pretty cheap. They come paired with a Sun M13II, which is basically perfect if you want something that looks vintage. The equivalent VO set would be nice too, but pricier. Both of these hubs have the drawback of being 126mm freewheel hubs with axles that aren't particularly any more resistant to getting bent than other freewheel hubs but are proprietary shouldered units that would be trickier to replace if needed. The only workaround for that problem in a 126 freewheel cartridge hub is Phil.


Mix Shimano Deore derailleurs with Microshift shifter for Shimano

The stumbling block is that while Shimano mountain and road rear derailers used the same actuation ratio and were fully cross-compatible until the start of 10spd mountain, the front derailers have always used a different cable pull. So if you have a mountain FD as well, you'll probably find it's impossible to get the front shifting set up for no chain rub anywhere, and shifting performance won't be very good. There are many questions here that explore options in this scenario.


This seems perfectly fine.

Cyclists often stand up for various reasons, and there's no reason to think that it would startle drivers. They probably have no idea why you're standing up anyway. Some people may eventually realize that you stand up every time they pass you, but I doubt they'll be anything but mildly amused.

Actual drafting (riding behind a vehicle) can and does stress drivers out on top of being rather dangerous for the cyclist.

As to the speed effect, standing up will make you go faster if the air is moving faster than you are. Effectively putting this into practice has a lot of nuances though, and really should be a separate post.


which spec are you looking at? source/link? I cannot find any reference to that part number online. the correct part number is Y-0C6-98030, which is two characters away from your non-existent part number
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/storage/pdf/en/ev/ST-R8070/EV-ST-R8070-4248B.pdf
this is for current D-A/Ultegra levers
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-duraace-str9120-bleed-screw-oring-y0c698030/
there is also https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-105-str7020-bleed-screw-oring-y0f398030/
which is Y-0F3-98030 for current 105 & Tiagra levers
the same -0C6- and 0F3 are used respectively by RX800 ('Ultegra' level) and RX600/400 (105/Tiagra level) series
Older levers use
Y-8V3-98010 (R785/RS685/RS505/RS405/U5060/U5010)
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-levers/shimano-xtr-blm988-bleed-screw-oring-m5-x-47mm-y8v398010/
Since there appears to be only three possible designs, one for all older road designs (2.5mm hex key), and a '105/Tiagra' (2.5mm hex key) and a Dura-Ace/Ultegra screw (2mm hex key) for newer designs, and you have given a non-existent part number, then it stands to reason that you have ordered the wrong part.
Is your existing screw a 2.5mm or a 2mm head? And how about the new one?
edit:
with the addition of the 'My bike is is 2018 Cannondale Synapse Di2.' to the OP my guess is that the lever as revised from ST-R785 DI2 (2017 MY) to ST-R8020 (2018 MY). Probably you have ST-R785. I would not refer to 'model years' but look at the actual components fitted, as they change during the year often. the shifter model number will be marked on the body. In this case you need Y-8V3-98010


Do quick release wheels require certain design in the fork?

Assuming the wheel fits into the fork, you can use quick release. As for your old wheels, you could find a same sized hollow axle and replace it or attach something like axle release to turn it into a quick-releasey wheel.

See this bicycles.SE thread as well. And Sheldon on how to properly use quick release.


Because you said you have disk brakes, it is unlikely that the unevenness is in the rim/tire. It must be something at the hub. Because you said it is visible at the rim, it is not a bent brake disk (unless you have both rim and disk bent). It is also unlikely to be loose bearing cups, though I would have checked them as well. When the wheel is not rotating, try to wobble it sideways with your hand. If it does wobble, tune up the hub.

The last possibility is that the wheel's axle does not sit properly in the dropouts, i.e. it is not installed correctly as the whole unit. Loosen the quick release skewer or nuts that hold the wheel and make sure that you've pressed it all the way in the frame's dropouts before closing skewer or tightening the nuts again.


The first thing, you should actually verify that you do have a cassette, ond not a freewheel. Sheldon Brown's site is good here, providing photos etc.. My answer will assume that you are actually running with a cassette.

The outside of a wheel is called a rim. The centre is called a hub. On your bike, bolted on to the side of the hub is something called a freehub body. This part holds the cassette in place (and provides the freewheel mechanism).

The thing is, different manufacturers use different patterns to keep the csassette in place, so if you're buying a new wheel you need to make sure you buy one with the correct freehub body, or be prepared to fit one yourself (added faff, more tools). So that's why we can't fully answer your question.

However, what we can say is that 700x23 is enough to define the size of new wheel you'll need. This is actually the tyre size, but the two are pretty much interchangeable in terms of defining wheel size. Also, you need to make sure that you get something compaztible with your 7-speed cassette.

In terms of actually swappuing the wheel out, new wheels generally come with freehub bodies ready to ride, but don't come with cassettes. So your problem basically becomes one of getting the cassette off the old wheel to use on the new. To get the cassette off, you'll need something called a lockring removal tool, which is basically a keyed nut, but again these vary with cassette manufacturer, aqmongst other things. Park Tools, among others, offer a good selection here.Then you'll need a spanner, 1" iirc, and lastly something - a vise or a chain whip - to keep the freewheel still while you unscrew everything. You'll use the same lockring tool/spanner to tighten it all up again. It really is a 2-minute job, but without the correct tools is quite impossible.


Google maps will show you paved trials open to bicycles and roads with dedicated bike lanes.

If you are a Strava user, you can use the route creation tool with heatmap turned on. That highlights bicycle trails very effectively.

Ride with GPS has a bicycle trails overlay in its route planner.

Really, any significant paved bicycle trails in a given location will be easy to find with a simple Google search, for instance searching for 'paved bicycle paths washington dc' turns up all the major paths in the area.


How do I differentiate the many varieties of brake/shifter cables?

You can easily buy shift (Compressionless/Index compatible) housing and brake (conventional helical) housing in bulk -- most bike shops buy it by the roll (of about 40-50 meters). Note most housing is shift only or brake only, and you should never use shift only housing for brakes (it will break). With non-index shifting though, you should be able to get acceptable performance with using brake housing for shifting. Expect to pay 1-2 USD per meter in bulk.

Note that there are housings that are suitable for both index shift and brake, such as some made by Nokon (but these are expensive; about 50 dollars/ meter).

Ferrules you can also buy in bulk -- you can easily buy them in little tubs of 100 or so for a few cents a piece.

Brake and shift cables will need to be bought individually (in the sense that you can't buy a roll of them and cut them yourself; you can obviously buy big lots of them at a discount). This is because you need to have the cable ends attached so that they can hook into the shifter/brake lever, and this needs to be done at manufacturing time. There are different varieties for different shifter and brake types. This is partially due to manufacturers, and also the different styles of the shifters/brakes. It's not a big deal -- no different really than needing a few different parts for working on a Honda than on a Ford, but you just need to know which ones you need.

These days the shift+brake cable types are relatively standard (since Shimano/SRAM are the vast majority of drivetrains out there): Most non-flat bar bikes (e.g. drop bar road bikes) will use the same brake cable (A) in the figure below, and most flat bar bikes (many hybrids/ mountain bikes) will use (C) for their brakes. And most bikes will use (D) for their shifting.

The people who need (B,E) would know a priori that they need them (since they spent a lot of money on their Campagnolo drivetrains).

Note that many Shimano/SRAM cables are sold double ended -- one has the road end on it, the other has the mountain end. You just cut off the end you don't need and use it as you would if it only came with the proper end.

(Figure from Bikeman)

For some classical shifters/brake levers (old Suntour, for example), the original cables used different ends than whats on the market now (e.g. a shift cable with a  ball end with diameter of the similar radius to (D) rather than (D)). In these cases, it doesn't hurt to do a google search to see what people are running for those cables. Or, take it to the shop -- they should have a copy of Sutherland's handbook which will tell them what the right cable is for practically anything. In some cases, you may end up filing another cable end down anyway (which isn't ideal, but sometimes it has to be done). Back in the old days, there were a bunch of manufacturers of stuff and things weren't as standardized as they are now (since Shimano has overrun the market, and SRAM is Shimano compatible for a lot of things).

A few remaining points:

With older (pre index shifting) setups it doesn't make much difference with quality of cables/housings (particularly for shifting) and carefulness of installation. But you might see a perceptible difference if you install cables/housings poorly on modern (index shifting) setups or use poor quality stuff.
The retailer you buy your stuff from can make a huge difference in price (also, what kind of bikes you have, which determines how much housing and stuff you need). I think I spent about 10 USD a bike last time I did this.
It probably doesn't make sense to buy bulk rolls of housing -- it's going to take forever to get through it for most people in a non-shop setting, and it takes up space. You don't need to replace them that often, and for one or two bikes, 50 m may be enough to last you close to the end of your riding life.

Further reading: Sheldon Brown's always good. This page from Bikeman in the comments is useful too.


Fitting a saddle with non-round rails to a Stevens Arcalis

As the "Stevens Vertriebs GmbH" and other sources on the internet mentioned there is probably no 3rd party solution as of now to mount another saddle which has no round bars.

UPDATE:

I sanded down the carbon rails of the saddle to make them fit.
When doing this wear a breath protection and protect you and your environment from the carbon particles.


This is an odd question. The sentiment that the only security here is physical security is correct. Think about the following:

The Shimano Di2 components are not mated/matched to a specific computer or instance of E-Tube software. So there's no 1:1 relationship.
Therefore, any computer equipped with the SM-PCE1 or SM-BCR2 programming cables can be used to modify the configuration and firmware of the Di2 componentry.
This has to be done via the junction box/charging port.
Firmware can only be downloaded from Shimano and applied through this interface. And while the application has comprehensive logging, it's unique to the computer. There's no audit trail on the devices themselves.
Since this is the case, where or when would there be an opportunity to password-protect anything? You could protect your computer, but any computer can be used. The devices are relatively dumb, and the firmware is likely overwritten during updates.
E-tube is basically used to apply firmware and manage custom settings. You can save presets and load from a configuration file, but firmware is not revved very often.

Given all of this, use common sense. You can just keep the bike secured or limit access to the bike's junction box (think low-tech, like duct-tape or hot-glue). Or you can inspect settings and check firmware revisions.

In the end, the Di2 junction box is the brain of the system. Someone with ill-intent (and physical access) could just replace the entire module in 30 seconds or so. You're seeking a technological solution to a people problem.

pix!

physical junction box and proprietary port

programming interface recognition

application and communication logging

device settings

firmware revision dialog


Is the question is it normal for a it to make noise when cross-chaining from smallest to smallest which you're not suppose to do?  Yes, but by doing so you are putting more stress on the chain and cogs, it is bad for your drive train and can result in dropping a chain or mucking up your gears faster than normal.

It is likely making noise because it is rubber or grinding on the derailleur or chain set.

The bike was not made to do that, you said yourself that you know you are not suppose to do it.

"My car sounds like crap when i run it with zero oil in the engine.. is this normal?"


Gear ratio formula to work out driven gear

In most jurisdictions, e-bikes must not provide assistance above a certain speed. One way to achieve this is by using a freewheel mechanism and configuring the controller to never exceed the motor's max RPM.
In the EU the max assisted speed is 25 km/h, which is about 7 m/s.
A typical hybrid bike might have a 700c rim with a 1.5" tyre, giving an overall diameter of about 700mm, so a circumference of 2.2m.
This means your target wheel speed is 3.18 Hz (revs per second).
7104 rpm = 118.4 Hz
Your ideal ratio would be 118.3/3.18 = 37.2327/1
There is no way you're using a 555 tooth wheel gear. (37 x 15 = 555)
At this point you have two options and may need to use both:

Use a planetary gearset to implement a 2-stage reduction, a 9:1 gearbox would allow you to hit 37.2 overall with a 62 tooth gear at the wheel (9 x 62/15 = 37.2). If you're using a standard size RC or powertool motor (e.g 700 series), you can probably buy off-the-shelf gearboxes that just bolt on.
Use a different motor with a lower Kv.

The calculations above assume you want the lowest possible gearing for maximum assistance at low speeds. This is most helpful in an e-bike. I haven't made any consideration of the motor's torque curve or efficiency curve.
Most commercially sold e-bikes use a mid-drive arrangement: the motor is connected to the crank, so the motor gets the same gear reduction as the rider. This is beneficial because the motor would only need to be efficient across a narrower range of speeds, e.g 50-100rpm vs 5-25km/h. With a brushless motor your controller can apply field weakening to continue delivering max power beyond the motor's base speed.


Touching the front wheel with my foot when turning

This is a common problem, but really not a big deal. I've usually heard it called "toe overlap". I have it on all my bikes.

Basically, it's a bit shocking the first time it happens, but you get used to it. It's no big deal. If you're simply aware that it can happen at slow speeds, you'll avoid it easily enough. Since it can only happen at slow speeds, it's not particularly dangerous.

It's most common on racing-style road bikes due to their short wheelbase or on smaller frame bikes. Big tires and/or fenders can make it more likely. Big feet and shoes that stick forward of your toes very far also make it more likely.

Possible solutions include:

Try not to worry about it. It's usually just an annoyance and you get used to it pretty quickly.
Don't go slow (can't turn the wheel far enough for it to be a problem unless you're going slow).
When going slow and making a sharp turn, pay attention to where your feet are.

Don't pedal while turning
Pump the pedals instead of normal pedaling, so that only your inside foot goes forward
Get your feet into a good position (outside foot just below where the pedal overlap happens) as you start to turn.
Also pay attention when starting from a stop.

Pedal with the ball of your foot over the spindle of the pedal. This is generally considered the "correct" place, and leaves your foot only going a little forward of the pedal. Some beginners put the arch of their foot on the pedal, which is likely to be uncomfortable on platform pedals, and puts your foot more forward.

Maybe slide your foot back a bit as you're making a slow turn, so that you pedal with your toes instead. I find this uncomfortable, but it's tolerable for a few seconds.

When you're shopping for bikes, look at how much toe overlap there is. You don't even need to ride the bike, you can tell by putting the pedal forward, putting a foot on the pedal at about the right position, and turning the handlebars.

Smaller riders may find that bikes with smaller wheels give them less toe overlap. 650b or 26" instead of 700c?

Really, don't worry about it too much.


The Brompton uses standard gear/shifter cables and brake cables. Flat bar brake levers use the same cable head as a mountain bike (i.e. barrel, not pear).
The handlebar selection could make a small difference to the actual length you need, but if you are able to remove the existing outer casing and take it to a bike shop (or measure it) you can have the new casing cut to length by the shop, saving you a job and saving wastage.
Gear outer casing is 4mm diameter, the inner wire is 1.2mm or 1.1mm(SRAM).
Brake outer casing is 5mm diameter.
Good quality stainless steel cables are not expensive, perhaps £2.50 each and the outer casing is generally £2.50/metre.


Why do you want to do this?

The problem with switching wheel sizes is normally the brake mounting for rim brakes, and the tire clearances. I have a feeling that you won't be able to line up the rim brakes when you do this (if you had disc brakes, this would be simpler - if the rotor fits, it works). The following thread here says that Velo Orange's Grand Cru canti has enough adjustment for swapping 26" wheels to 650b wheels on some bikes (probably, but would require switching to short pull brake levers) and Paul's MotoBMX brakes may work as well. Your current brakes may or may not have enough adjustment to do this. This is all assuming of course you can even get the 650b wheel in with your desired tire. You could run a staggered setup (650b front, 26" rear) with a new fork at the worst, but this is expensive and likely would require you to adjust things due to the height difference.

A switch from 26" to 650b will move your bottom bracket up 1/2 an inch.

I think this conversion would be largely pointless, especially on a cheap bike like a Gary Fisher Tarpon. You're better off picking a better tire for your purposes unless you REALLY need the extra half inch of bottom bracket height (in which case, you should probably get a different bike). You'd have to buy new wheels and possibly new brakes, which puts you a good way towards just selling the bike and buying a 27.5" er to begin with.

On the other hand, Sheldon Brown points out that the 700c to 650b conversion can be useful.


Is this an abnormal rate of spoke breakage?

Yes, as the comments pointed out, this is abnormal.

I would make the attempt to take the wheel back to the LBS where you bought the bike. The might be able to work with Specialized and get the wheel replaced completely. Once at the LBS, have the mechanic inspect for any external factors (derailleur strikes, etc).

If they can't get it replaced, then I would either: (1) have the wheel completely rebuilt replacing at a minimum the spokes but taking a good look at the rim once it's disassembled...as noted in the comments, it might be warped; or (2) buy a new wheel. Having it rebuilt can often be pretty pricey and you can get a decent wheel these days for a couple hundred.


I'm looking forward to gaining more tyre clearance by swapping the current 700c wheels with 650b or even 26 inch wheel.

Even if you mounted a pair of long reach calipers (probably something like the Tektro 559, which has a reach of 55-73mm, but I'm not sure if they're still made), you would probably not have enough room to fit big tires. The chain stays, seat stays, and fork blades won't have enough clearance for gravel width tires. That's the main determinant of how much tire you can fit. If you have calipers, try measuring how much clearance there is between the stays at the midpoint of the tire, then move the calipers down about 20mm, then see how much additional clearance you have. I suspect you have very little. Also, if you mounted 650B wheels, you would now be riding wheels with a shorter vertical distance than the bike is designed for. You risk hitting pedals on obstacles on the ground.
I don't know where Cinelli says that this frame is capable of gravel, but 28mm tires are fine for many unpaved roads without loose gravel.


9100 Shimano chainrings will fit on all 4 bolt Dura Ace, Ultegra, 105 or Tiagra cranksets. It's only when fitting the older style chainrings (9000, 6800, 5800 or 4700) onto the new cranksets (9100, 8000, 7000) that you run into compatibility issues.


Mixing various spoke widths in a single wheel

Given the age of the wheel, you're going to continue to snap older spokes from time to time. Don't worry about the gauge of the replacement spoke. Assuming it's within the range of appropriate tension, as long as it pulls true there's not much to be concerned about. I have multiple wheels with some of the thinnest gauge spokes available (Sapim CX Rays) with straight gauge replacement spokes. No issues to report.


23, 25 or 28mm tyres for very smooth, flat road - what's fastest?

The key problem in this kind of analysis is holding all of the possible variables equal while you change only one factor. Weight, construction materials, tread pattern and inflation pressure are all at least as important if not more important that tire width when it comes to rolling resistance. That said, VeloNews has an interesting article where they tested various tires at different pressures.

From Resistance is futile: How tire pressure and width affect rolling resistance

  Tire rolling resistance on the road is caused by (1) internal friction and hysteresis (deformation over time) within the tire’s materials, and (2) on rough roads, small bumps lifting the bike and rider slightly (uphill) on each little impact.

AND

  If a wider tire is made of the same materials in the same thickness as a narrower one, it will roll faster, because (1) the internal friction and hysteresis within the tire’s materials will be lower, and (2) because the surface imperfections in the road will be absorbed into the tire more easily (since it has more deflection available), thus lifting the bike and rider slightly less with each little impact.

The key in these tests was that they compared the tires at different widths but at the same pressure. What you are experiencing is likely that you are running the 28mm tires at a lower pressure than the 23mm ones. On a smooth road, minimizing the area of the contact patch becomes more important to rolling resistance, so the narrower tire at the high end of pressure will be fastest. That's why you will see velodrome riders using specialized tires that have a max psi of 185 or more.

  On rough surfaces, however, a tire at lower pressure is able to absorb more of the bumps than a tire at higher pressure, with less deflection of the bike and its rider. This is the same “sprung vs. un-sprung weight” argument that demonstrates why suspension makes a bicycle faster on rough terrain — it takes less energy to keep the bike rolling if only a small amount of weight is lifted (like a small section of the tire) than if the entire bike and rider is lifted by the bump.

In addition, it's unlikely that your 28mm tires weigh the same as your 23mm tires, so the additional weight is going to increase your resistance. In all, it looks like if you are trying to minimize your rolling resistance on this smooth section of road, experiment with the narrower tires at different pressures. Just be aware that wind resistance is far more important at any significant speed. Wearing a slightly flappy shirt may make a bigger difference than the 5-10psi change, or the 5mm of extra rubber.


Press fit bottom bracket causing bearings to bind

What you're describing is common. One clue as to whether it's necessarily an issue depends on how a new bearing feels and lasts/performs. Press fits always take up some amount of internal clearance and so having some degree of what you describe on a worn bearing isn't necessarily a big deal. But if a new DS bearing behaves similarly, yes that's a problem.

To diagnose something like this, always take a bunch of measurements of the shell bore at different places to see if it's consistent or if the interference fit is greater than it should be. The PF30 standard is open and there's a technical paper for it out there somewhere that shows what these numbers should look like.

PF30 reamer/facers do exist and I daresay anyone selling cdale mtbs should have one. That should fix it better than new, although I don't know Cannondale's take on them on their carbon frames.


Replacement front wheel for Fastroad SL-1 2019

Giant tends to use its own branded rather than 'name brand' components.
If you bike store thinks they cannot get a replacement wheel from Giant I'd try contacting Giant customer support yourself. It seems unlikely that Giant cannot provide a replacement wheel for a recent bike model.
If you cannot obtain a replacement Giant wheel, obtaining a replacement that is identical in specifications and similar in appearance should be easy. 28 spoke front wheels certainly are available (and that's not a particularly low spoke count). 'ETRTO 622x17' is the specification for rim diameter and internal width in millimeters. 622mm diameter wheels are also known as '700c'. I think from the FastRoad SL-1 webpage the hubs are quick release rather than through-axle. The other specification needed is whether you have 6-bolt brake rotor mount or Shimano center-lock.


Will an Ultegra bar end shifter work with MTB derailleurs?

Most Shimano components are compatible with the Ultrega and Dura Ace bar end shifters, so long as they are specifically for 8 speed or 9 speed systems (you can use a 9 speed shifter on a 7 or 8 speed cassette, but not the other way around). If you're fussy about indexing, it may take some adjustment, but friction shifting is fast, reliable, and cheap! (If I remember correctly Ultrega and some of the Dura Aces have a friction option, while a few Dura Ace models have only indexing). You will run into issues with 10 speed Shimano bar end shifters, especially with the front derailleurs. (Make sure that the shifter is compatible with triple cranks if you have a triple.)

Sram mountain derailleurs, however, DO NOT work with most bar end shifters! I've never actually tried it, but I've read in numerous places that they are not compatible (even with Sram bar end shifters).

Additionally, there are numerous other manufacturers of bar end shifters (Rivendell Silver Shifters, for one). Many different mounting options exist, including Paul Thumbies, which allow shifter levers to be mounted on top of the bar, as well as a bracket by IRD for mounting to the stem.

Here, again, be aware that road handlebars have a larger ID than mountain handlebars. A bar end shifter made for road bars will not fit inside of a mountain-specific bar.


Even with an e-bike going to 150 miles a week is a big jump. Likely you just need to have a few rest days to allow your body to adapt and recover. 3 weeks is the range in where you start run into problem with long term recovery.

I'd suggest switching down to 3 days a week until you feel completely recovered every day. Also lay off the strava, going for Personal Bests (PBs) is something you should keep to a minimum in daily rides. Focus on a pace that allows you to arrive at work w/o feeling stressed at all. This will help with the leg soreness/tiredness during the day.

The saddle problem is a completely different one that every bike rider has to figure out. Some of it is just that you are spending a lot more time in the saddle, but most of it is finding the right saddle that works for you and your position on the bike. Unfortunately, there are no simple fixes. There are various saddle fitting guides out there, but nothing works for everybody and almost every saddle works for somebody. The best solution would be to find a local bike shop with a saddle demo program that will let you try different saddles until you find the one that works for you.


How can I stop my feet/shins getting soaked/muddy when cycling offroad in the winter?

I've never had a pair of MTB shoes that are waterproof though I wouldn't doubt if they exist. Even if they were you'd still have water coming of your shin and into the shoe (this is what makes even waterproof shoe covers a bit wet inside).

I just tough it out. I have a set of neoprene shoe covers that keep my feet warm and maybe even dry depending on how wet it is. I have a set of full length tights and a set of leg warmers. If either of those are dirty I just hose them off when I clean my bike at the end of the ride and let them dry. I'll wash them every few rides.


I wouldn't go much narrower than 2.4 on the 27.5+ wheelset which is usually 40 to 50mm wide, maybe 2.2 if it's got 35mm wide rims as some setups prefer. Keep in mind that you drop your bottom bracket quite a bit when you size down, so you might get more pedal strikes and different handling by using smaller tires. I wouldn't go smaller than 2.4" tires on a bike designed for 27.5+ tires.

However, you could likely use a standard 29x2.2 tire on a 29er wheelset on the same bike which should be about the same diameter as your 27.5+ wheel & tire. It's a bit more expensive to have a separate wheelset, but it can give you the versatility to swap between fat and skinny widths.


Should I let chronic training load drop (as in stop training) to end my current level of tiredness or continue riding?

At the end of one particularly hard road racing season, I felt pretty tired as well. I decided to take about 3-4 days completely off the bike and by the end of that I felt good again and ready to go. If you haven't even taken that off you might try. Also be sure to eat right and get enough sleep if you're not.

But everyone's body is different. Attempting to build form back up "from the beginning" seems like a strong initial reaction if you haven't tried more simple R&R first.


What headsets can be used to replace the FSA No.57/No.61BP headset?

I received an email from FSA customer support:

Thanks for contacting us.
Headset No.57/61BP is a cheeper headset with retainer bearing, we don’t have this Headset in stock and also this type of bearing as spare parts.

We suggest to install the below upgrade version, so in the future you can replace only the bearing:
130-0026            HS SX Pro (I/I) 15mm alloy 1-1/8 1.5
Hope this can help.
Ciao
Stefano

Googling this, I found a headset called FSA Gravity HS No. 55 SX Pro, which has the following specs:

Upper headtube ID 44mm
Lower headtube ID 54.92mm (Follow-up email indicates that this is in fact 55)
1 1/8" to 1.5" tapered steerer
50-61mm headtube outer diameter


Bottom brackets are incredibly confusing--there is a huge number of standards, and some of them refer to the diameter in the name, some the width, etc.

The compatibility chart for your new crankset lists BSA as an option. BSA uses the same bottom-bracket threading as JIS--which we know is already working on your bike--so that is the correct BB to get. What you'll be getting is just a set of thread-in cups and bearings, rather than the cups, bearings, and spindle as you had on your old BB.

Italian bottom brackets are also threaded, but the thread pattern is different. And the other BBs that the crankset is compatible with don't use threaded cups at all.


I don't think anyone uses a torque wrench for installing the cups. If you did any damage, it would be to the threads of the BB or to the threads on the frame. However, unless you were an ogre when you tightened it down or you cross-threaded it, I doubt you did any damage. I do hope you used grease/anti-seize though, since you may ruin the threads if you didn't. You could also have damaged the spacers for the BB, I suppose, but it'd have to be pretty mangled if it affected the chainline and Q-factor significantly. So, if its this which you're worried about, I'd just leave it. Given that you have a Sugino crank, I'm assuming you probably don't have spacers.

When you're installing the crank, theres a cap you have to put on -- this only requires something like 0.5 Nm. If you overdo this, you'll load the bearings such that they wear down faster. If you've overtightened this, you need to undo it. Same with putting the non-drive side crank arm (which is something like 15 Nm normally).


Is it harmful for a hydraulic brakes bike to be put upside down

There are two risks to turning your hydraulic brakes upside-down.

The brake system isn't filled to overflowing with hydraulic fluid: there's likely to be a small air bubble. Normally, this sits at the highest point of the system: the oil reservoir at the brake lever. There, it's not compressed by the piston when you brake, so it can't interfere with braking. If you up-end your bike, air bubbles might travel through the system to the brake pads. If they don't manage to make it back up to the reservoir before you want to brake, you might find your brakes are squishier than usual. 15 minutes is perhaps a pessimistic estimate, and it's not that much of a risk unless you get on your bike and right away need to brake very hard.

The other potential problem is if the seals in the oil reservoir aren't quite tight. You might not notice in normal use, because they're at the top, but when they're at the bottom of the system, the pressure might let some brake fluid seep out. If you notice this happening, stop turning your bike upside-down, and make sure to check that you still have enough fluid to brake properly. If it keeps happening after you've re-tightened the seal, you may need to change the rubber grommet(s). Often rubber seals are dissolved over time by the oil, and stop doing their job properly.

As others have said in the comments, you'd be better off avoiding the need to turn your bike upside-down. Find where the water is getting into the frame and seal any gaps. Some bikes already come with holes in the bottom in case they need to drain, and you might consider adding your own.


It looks like you have a crankset with non-removable chainrings. The 'bolts' you are measuring the geometry of are just screws holding the chainguard on. The chainrings appear to be pressed steel and attached at the crank axle.
It's much more likely the pressed steel rings are bent than the bottom bracket axle, so replacing the entire crank is possibly all you need to do. The bottom bracket bearings may also be in bad shape which would require that to be replaced also.
Single chainring cranks for a square taper bottom bracket are relatively cheap, but there different model cranks require a different axle length to achieve the correct chainline. Sometimes it's easier to buy a new crank and matching bottom bracket than mess with trying to figure out what axle length a crank needs.


Rear derailleur shifts all gears at once

Your problem is worn out (or broken) index springs aka G-springs. These are part of the shifter mechanism. Worn out G-springs will enable rear derailleur spring to pull the cable over the indexes.

One way to test is putting the rear derailleur on bigger sprocket and pull the cable. If it drops indexes (goes to smaller sprocket) then the problem is caused by G-springs.

G-springs are replaceable in older (pre 2007) Campagnolo shifters. Only tools needed are hex keys.


How difficult is the switch from flat to drop bar?

I have never had professional fitting - just adjusted until it felt right.  I am sure a professional fitting would be nice but I just did not want to spend my money on one.

A road bike might not be the best bike for you.  In a drop bar consider cyclocoss or light touring.  Some companies have a drop bar "commuter".  They are going to have bigger tires and a bit more upright position.  If no other bike feels comfortable then stay with you flat bars.

As far as get used to it just ride. Brakes and gears are different but clearly you have figured that out.  More hand position.  Most riding is up on the brakes/hoods.  If you get on the bike and go straight down in the drops it will feel low - that is for high speed and into the wind.


How to prevent accidental unclipping while cornering?

Don't worry about things that haven't happened.

Most people new to clipless are worried about the exact opposite. "Will I be able to unclip if things go south in a turn?"

Eventually you will get to the point where clipping in/out is completely unconscious.

Having said all that, if unclipping when you don't want to really becomes a problem, look into getting a setup with more "float". Float is the angle at which the cleat releases.
SPD cleats come in different versions with different float.

You can also get pedal with more float that standard SPD's.


Yes, it is a real Kinetic. The older Kinetics used to be black and had a much different logo.

"But for some time now, I’ve been wondering how much different the Kurt Kinetic Road Machine is from my ‘old’ trainer. Well, it turns out that Kurt Kinetic hit on a winner with the original design… and except for a new ‘hair color’, the two units are nearly identical. Wisely, Kurt Kinetic decided to not fix something that isn’t broken." http://cycling-review.com/accessories/bicycle-trainer/kurt-kinetic-road-trainer/


One issue is that it can be harder to balance a bike while spinning like crazy than while pedalling more sedately. Timing a gap in traffic, for example, I can get below 1km/h, but changing right down is a mistake because when I want to get going again I'm trying to push 100rpm after a couple of strokes.  This is worse if I take the MTB on road, because of its smaller small chainring - it has very limited use.

Another is that gearing too low produces too much torque, which is worse on steel uphills. With your weight on the saddle or over the back wheel, the front wheel will lift, but with your weight forwards the back will slip. I've had this on trails (MTB) and wet roads (tourer). You have to push quite hard to get up enough speed to get through the weakest part of the stroke (when the pedals are vertical) so simply starting gently isn't an option either. Because of the grip, this heavily depends on the surface, so it's not just about the bike.


Road bike very twitchy when standing in the pedals?

Riding out of the saddle is a totally valid way to ride, you may just need to practice more. I remember having much the same reaction to my first road bike.

Almost all road bikes are twitchier/have faster steering than mountain bikes.

Mountain bikes are typically designed to be very stable to stop ruts, roots, and rocks from throwing you into a ditch or off of a cliff.

Road bikes are designed for nice flat, smooth tarmac and don't really have to worry about these obstacles.

Even within the road bike gamut, you'll find that the stability can vary wildly. A bike for touring will be very stable but one designed for criteriums will likely be the twitchiest of the lot.

I can't comment on the sizing, if you're test riding at a shop, why not try something bigger or smaller?


Shimano saint chain ring lower than 34 teeth?

The smallest SM-CR82 is 34t, but FC-M820 and FC-M825 (one of which is your crank model) can take other 104 BCD rings, down to 30t. 30t 104 rings are a somewhat recent hack/innovation and have to play some tricks to be able to physically work without interfering with the crank (most or all of them have integrated spacers and threads). Most of the narrow/wide chainring makers have a version.


What is this adjuster in the shifting cable?

It is an inline barrel adjuster. By holding the end closest to the Shimano "O" and rotating the knurled end you can finely adjust the shift point of the front derailleur. If looking at it from the knurled end, counterclockwise rotation will make the adjuster longer.Clockwise rotation will make the adjuster shorter. This movement will increase or decrease cable tension.


How do I prevent the Hydraulic Disc Brakes on my bike from rubbing?

Likely the brake caliper assembly isn't mounted quite parallel to the rotor and needs to be slightly adjusted. This is a pretty easy process that takes less then a minute to complete:

Using a 5mm Allen Key, slightly loosen but do not remove the two
caliper fixing bolts so you can move the caliper assembly
side to side.
Depress the brake lever so the rotor is being clamped by the pads
and then re-tighten the caliper fixing bolts to 6.0 - 8.0 N.m (53.0 - 69 in. lbs.)

If you ever need to remove the caliper assembly from the mounts (for instance to change your brake pads) you'll use a similar process to re-align the assembly to the rotor. In that case you would re-install the caliper assembly but only screw the caliper fixing bolts in part of the way and then follow step #2 above.


New bike, tubeless tire will not inflate

There could be many causes for a flat tubeless tyre, especially on first installation.

Check the tyre is actually tubeless compatible
Check the tyre beads are seated the whole way round
Check the nut on the valve is tightened (finger tight)
With the wheel off the bike, shake the wheel and listen for sealant.

If any of these conditions are not met, rectify the problem before trying again.

If they are all met, then you have a hole in the tyre - not at all unheard of in tubeless ready tyres which are designed for use with sealant.

To find the hole, get a helper to operate the pump for you, whilst you carefully inspect/listen to where the air is escaping.  Whilst still pumping (to generate some air pressure), rotate the wheel so the hole is at the bottom.  This will cause the sealant to pool in that area and plug the hole.


Shifters don't care about wheel/rim size.  They only care about how many gears there are to shift across, and once you hit 10~11 speed then it also matters whether the bike is using a road or MTB groupset.
Answer Yes you can move shifters to another bike, as long as the speeds match, and the handlebar diameter is the same.
Your bike is a 3x on the front and a 8x on the rear, so the new bike would have to be the same.
If you have integrated shifters (where the brake lever and the shifter are in the same unit) then the brakes will have to match too - you couldn't use brake levers from V-Brakes with disk brakes.

 There are some situations where you could get away with a mismatch, but they'd be unusual, like using your 8 speed rear shifter on a 6 or 7 speed rear block, and having one or two dead positions.  Not recommended.


There are two ways to do this, either using a device with GPS which connects to an app on your phone via bluetooth or wifi at the end of the ride. In this case you can ride for as long as the battery on the bike computer, and your phone's battery is not used during the ride. E.g. Garmin Edge series or Wahoo.
The other way is to use the GPS from your phone connected using bluetooth to a computer. This gives a lower cost device.
E.g.,
https://www.cateye.com/intl/products/computers/CC-RD500B/
A full list of supported Strava devics is here
https://support.strava.com/hc/en-us/articles/223297187-How-to-get-your-Activities-to-Strava#devices
Very old GPS computers used to require you to use a USB cable to upload manually. Now they pretty much all have apps and the process is seamless. So be careful if buying a used GPS. I don't know about iPhone but whatever you buy you'd want to check that there is an iPhone app
E.g., this page shows the Wahoo Elemnt app on Iphone which automatically connects using the Wifi chip in the Wahoo elemnt computer to upload to Strava.
https://support.strava.com/hc/en-us/articles/218366788-Wahoo-ELEMNT-and-Strava


Single speed dirt jump specific frame for general riding

My short answer is no.  A true dirt jump frame is going to be horrible for short XC riding and even worse for extended 2 to 3 hour rides.  You won't be able to get the extension to pedal efficiently and will just end up wearing yourself out standing.  I have a dirt jump frame and after only a couple short commutes on it (4 miles) I decided it wasn't worth commuting on it.  A "hardcore hardtail" looks to be closer to what you should probably look at.  It should be far more comfortable for extended riding, but still handle the abuse of a dirt track.


What is this tool for? Likely something to do with cables?

That's a spoke wrench, for turning spoke nipples.  The benefit of this design is that, as opposed to the kind with an arm coming out each side of a central body, the force from your fingers is spread over the faces of the disk, meaning you can apply more force and it hurts less.

I'm not certain, because I haven't used it, but it also seems like it would be easier to keep your grip on the wrench; the other kind is prone to being fumbled and dropped as you turn it (at least when I'm the one turning it, it is).

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/KLICKfix-Rixen-Kaul-SPOKEY-professional/dp/B003ZRWA4Y/


How much side-to-side foot movement is possible in Crankbrothers clipless pedals?

I happen to use candy pedals so I measured how much I could move a shoe laterally on a pedal when clipped in - it's about 2mm.

However the pedal is holding the cleat quite tightly and and I'm pretty sure the cleat does not really 'float' laterally when riding. If the heel of the foot wants to move off the cleat centerline that is provided for by rotational float.


Removing old 531 frame bottom bracket. Where to source a pin spanner etc

Non-cycling-specific pin spanners do indeed tend to have fatter pins, but in the cycling section you should find something.
Park Tools SPA-2, for example, has pins just over 2mm diameter (so you should check), and the spacing is adjustable over a small range about what you need because its a little springy. I bought mine for working on a 90s Raleigh; they're not needed so often on modern bikes.
Hopefully you'll need less force than to remove the lock ring, as it's not a massive tool.
Alternatively it's possible to measure the spacing of an opposite pair of pin holes and make something from scrap metal using M2 screws as pins. That's only worth it if you've got all the tools and materials to hand


sram grip shifter to be fox CTD shock remote lever

Just follow the twister shifter instructions, but attach the cable to the CTD actuator (same as the current remote is currently attached, on the blue actuator on the shock), instead of the front derralieur. Adjust tension as necessary using the barrel on the gripshift.

Finding a SRAM front derraileur 3-position twister shifter might be hard these days (I think they only sell rear derraileur shifters now, since 1 chainring is the current "fashion") but if you find it... it's just a cable tensioner, same as the CTD remote.


Price - a suspended frame is much more complicated and expensive to make, and a good shock alone can cost more than a decent rigid frame.
Maintenance - both shocks (due to gaskets/seals, lubrication, cleaning) and elements suspended frames (additional bearings) are relatively high-maintenance and short-lived, compared to rigid frames. This also translates into less reliability, especially important in touring/trekking trips.
Cost-effectiveness and weight-effectiveness - especially in road biking or touring, it's not such a big deal. Much better to put wider tires or suspended saddle.
Pedalling efficiency - even the best suspension systems rob some of the user's energy. In mountain biking, it's more than offset by less energy expended by the rider, who can spend less time out of the saddle on uneven terrain, but in road cycling it's absolutely unjustifiable.


Which type of course is the fastest for a 10 km TT? A completely flat course or a course with 5 km uphill and 5 km downhill?

It is pretty obvious. Just imagine the hill rose a bit, say to 5%. And even more, to 10%. Going across a mountain is never fast. Mountainous race stages are slow. The total meters needed to be climbed over the stage count, not just the different between the start and the finish.
Do remember that the average speed is not averaged over the distance but over time. So if you spent more time in the slower section, it counts more. And you do, because you are, well, slower...
There is an old riddle. You have one hour to go to a certain place 10 km away and back. So you plan to go 20 km/h. But it was uphill on the way there and you only went half the planned speed. How fast do you have to go on the way back to get back in time?
I also notice you ask about a light rider. The more there is meters to be climbed per every kilometer of the course, the better for a light rider although the time trial discipline has its specifics and specialist riders.


Is Mustache bar for daily ride advisable?

As long as the diameter of the clamp surface is the same as your stem clamp, you can run whatever you want! As far as comfort, that one is up to you. Mustache bars don’t provide the best leverage for cornering or stopping on a fixie.


Can I swap a shimano free hub body for a campag one and be able to attach it to the existing Deore hub?

I haven't found any campy replacement freehub for a deore... esp since shimano uses different incompatible freehub bodies for its different hubs, and Deore being a mountain group, campy being mostly road, I don't see there being any market for such a conversion.

That being said, if you find a replacement campy rear hub with a similar flange size, you could just swap the hubs. YOu would need a spoke wrench and truing stand, and some general wheelbuilding knowledge.

EDIT: not sure how much of a perfectionist you are, but you could just run a campy rd and shifters on a shimano cassette. See:
http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml


Shimano Shadow vs Non-Shadow Rear Derailleur for Commuter Bike

Shadow describes the design that brings the derailleur body inboard making it less prone to knocks and damage, it does not help with chain slap. For that you need a clutch or in Shimano phraseology "Plus"  (SRam "type 2")

You can get Shadow derailleurs without the clutch (e.g. M592), so if you want the clutch, look for a "plus" - I believe the lowest in the range with a clutch is Deore.

Without getting into buying advice (Off topic here), the difference between components one level apart is small enough most people will not notice. My choice would be based on internet shopping for the best I could get within my budget as often you can pick up great discounts.

Shadow is not a big deal unless you regularly wipe out you derailleur in rock gardens, but I would pay a few dollars more for a shadow Plus if you are noticing an annoying amount of chain slap, but from the sound of it a Deore will be more than you want to spend.

If you are on a tight budget, also have a look at Microshift derailleur, don't think you have to stick with the $himano tax.


Whats a good entry-mid wheelset for a salsa fargo?

We don't really do product recommendations per the frequently asked questions. Links to manufacturer or shop websites will frequently go stale, and furthermore bicycles and the bike industry are evolving quite rapidly - particularly gravel bikes and their gear.
That said, it's possible to discuss some generalities. The practice of having two separate wheelsets is not uncommon for multipurpose bikes like the Salsa Fargo, which Salsa describes as an off-road touring and bikepacking bike (although clearly, nothing stops you from using it primarily on road). If you use tubeless tires, then because those tires are more troublesome to mount and dismount, having two sets of wheels with different tires could save you effort. If you wanted a wheelset that was more performance road focused, e.g. aero rims with 28mm tires, then that could be another reason to maintain a separate wheelset. However, you have to buy the wheels, and a pair of rotors, and another cassette unless you want to swap cassettes back and forth. Some riders keep one 650B and one 700c wheelset, with the 650B set getting wider tires for even more technical off-road terrain.
Depending on what your gravel looks like, it's possible that some people might be able to use a wide slick tire, and that would tend to bias me away from maintaining two separate wheelsets - I'm thinking gravel that's mainly dry, because knobs are objectively needed in the mud, whereas I'm not sure that knobs help a lot on dry gravel. If you feel like you can actually cover your intended needs with one pair of tires, you might not want to get a second wheelset. If you're not running your tires tubeless, then it's easier to change tires back and forth - however, tubeless is generally recommended off-road.


Remove old non-indexed levers for gear changing to make "fixed" speed bike?

If I understand correctly you have slipping shifting levers that let the derailleurs move without your intervening. A non-indexed shifter slips because the friction setting is too low.

Friction of the lever is easily adjusted by a screw at the side of the lever. If it still slips after tightening you'll unscrew the thing taking care to remember the correct order of items when is comes apart. (Take a photo maybe to assist your memory.) Then clean the bits to remove any grease and reassemble. It usually helps. At least it did in the old days before indexed gears.


You can measure the stretch of a chain with a chain gauge (or just a ruler)

Alternately - the chain links are 1 inch long, so measure 12 of them with a ruler, if they are more than 1/8inch longer than this then they are worn.

You need to do this before it wears the rear cogs - it will cause the teeth to wear into sharp pointed spikes = need a new cassette.


Garmin Edge Touring - Quality of the maps

The Edge Touring comes with a preloaded "Garmin Cycle Map". This is based on OpenStreetMap, so you can check the OSM website to see how good coverage is for the areas you are interested in. In general, OSM is rather good for roads in most of Western Europe, and much of the USA. Many areas also have lots of cycle paths and trails mapped. It is often more accurate and up to date than other maps. Plus if something is wrong or missing, you can edit the map to fix it.

The Garmin Cycle Map is designed specifically for cycling, so highlights relevant features, eg cycle paths. If using the navigation, it is designed to route you along paths or minor roads where possible. And it contains height data, so it can show elevation profiles or route to avoid hills.

Note you can download other OSM based maps in Garmin format for free, then put these on the Edge instead. These are available in a variety of different styles, which you may prefer. Also they may be more up to date, which is useful if you are adding of editing things on OpenStreetMap.

Or you can buy other maps from Garmin, eg City Navigator, then use these on the Edge. These can be expensive, depending on how large an area you want. And City Navigator only contains roads, not paths etc.


Gear indicator on SRAM X5 Shifter shows wrong gear

I don't know if you're still having this problem, but this could be useful for others, so I'll go ahead and answer it.

To be honest I wouldn't bother trying to fix a gear indicator, especially a front one. It's not difficult to remember which chainring you're in and opening up the shifter is definitely going to invite problems for inexperienced mechanics.

What Chris said is probably wrong: the gear indicator will not be affected by cable stretch.

The above notwithstanding, this is a very easy problem to remedy.

1) Shift the chain to the lowest chainring (least cable tension).

1.5) Slide the shifter off of the bar if possible. (This step is not strictly neccesary, but I find it makes things easier.)

2) There should be a number of small allen key heads around the top of the shifter. Undo these and carefully remove the top cover of the shifter. Take a picture of the internals in case anything falls out.

3) The top cover is composed of the cover and the bar clamp (which contains the gear indicator). All of the working parts are contained in the lower part of the shifter. In the middle of all of these you will see a cog which is raised up and doesn't appear to mesh with anything. This is what drives the indicator. On the underside of the top cover you will see a toothed strip of plastic: this is the indicator. Slide it with your finger to '1' (which is where you should have shifted to at the start).

4) Put the top cover back on and put the shifter back on the bar.


Gazelle taillight Power Vision user manual

The Gazelle Power Vision taillight has no independent manual.  As it is only sold on a bike, the manual for the bike contains the information you need.

You can determine if there is an automatic function built in to the light by checking the power switch. If the power switch only has 2 positions, you have a manual only light. If there are 3 positions, then the light has a sensor function.  The function you are thinking of as a lock, may be the auto function. If not, you appear to have the manual version.
If the sensor function is active, then the light will turn on when the bike is moving. It will remain on 1 minute after motion stops. Some models also have a light sensor, and will stay on longer in the dark.
The battery indicator is automatic. It will begin to flash when the light calculates 10 hours of battery life are remaining.


installing a 700-18-23C tube on a bicycle

It goes outside the rim, where you can see it.

It's not even strictly necessary. It really only exists to keep the valve stem in place while you air the tire up, which makes the whole process much easier. Weight weenies throw them away to save a couple grams.

Also note that if you use it, you don't want to screw it down too tight. Doing so can crimp your tube in the valve hole, causing it to puncture. Screw it on just enough to get the pump nozzle onto the valve. That's all you need. If airing the tire up exposes more of the valve, go ahead and screw it down until it just touches the rim.

PS: The tube size is actually irrelevant. The installation is the same for any tube with a Presta valve.


Is there more than one ideal seat post height based on type of riding?

Yes.  However, it varies by type of riding and conditions.  All Mountain is probably the extreme example of this (and the main market for dropper seatposts).  All Mountain bikes are designed to be able to climb and for that generally one would want the seat in a "high" position to be efficient.  During a technical descent, however, the seat is generally preferred to be low and out of the way, useful for providing additional movement if necessary, but low enough to get behind for extreme braking.

Other riding types may have only one "ideal" position.  Trials bikes, for example, will most often have no seat, since it is rarely used and only adds weight and gets in the way.  So there is an "ideal" position.  Most road disciplines generally have what is considered an ideal position and will not vary by riding conditions in that discipline.


How to safely remove pump chuck from Schrader valve

Ripping off the valve is a pretty rare occurence I think. If you manage to pull the valve off or even just spring a leak while removing the chuck then the inside of the rim (where the root of valve connects to the innertube and hits the inside of the rim) could be too sharp or the protective rim tape could be damaged or mis-aligned. This is the first thing I'd check.

Beyond that I think the top voted answer here to this almost identical question for presta valves is good concrete advice.
I would suggest you:

Make sure you unlocked the chuck properly.
Just pull straight away from de valve to get the chuck off (no twisting or bending or wiggling)
Be mindfull of the amount of force you use (both to avoid pulling the valve off, and to avoid slamming your hand into the spokes or something else as the chuck comes loose.


is it possible to remove a hub gear and keep the existing wheel? Or should I just get a new rear wheel?

If you remove the hub, what is left? A rim and some spokes... if your goal is to reuse as much as possible, you could possibly lace a new hub to the rim. The problem is that it is pretty unlikely that the spokes will be reusable. Going from one hub to the next, you can occasionally with some decent planning get that to work. With an internal hub going to an externally geared hub it is pretty unlikely as usually internal hubs have a large hub body and very tall flanges. This causes them to use very short spokes that would never reach the flanges of a standard hub. You could look into it, using online spoke length calculators, and see if there is a hub that would let you reuse the spokes.

However, building a wheel this way is not a great introduction to wheelbuilding! Used spokes, used rim.. it will all behave differently and go together with more difficulty than new parts due to inconsistencies and wear.

If you would like to take that on AND you can reuse the spokes, it will probably be cheaper than a new wheel. If you can't reuse the spokes, it would end up being cheaper to just buy a new rear wheel (not even taking into account that you may get a small amount of money for the current rear wheel).


If it's only 2 months old, they have to replace the broken part in guarantee for free. Isn't it?

Anyways I checked the specs, this bike has Truvativ Firex GXP crankset. It has integrated bearing, so it should not move side to side. The clicking noise usually means loose or damaged bottom bracket. First I would try to reinstall the crankset with correct lubrication and optimal torque. And if it does not help, it has to be replaced.


What threads are used on Avid BB5 barrel adjusters?

They did indeed turn out to be M7 (1 mm pitch).
Nuts are fairly easy to get, but at least the locknuts (half nuts) I bought take an 11 mm spanner.   None of my multitools, or any I can find online, have this size spanner built in; even my workshop spanner set omits it, but in over 20 years of building and maintaining hardware for work and play, this is probably the first time I've handled M7 parts.


The short annswer is not at all important.
People trained and got fit for decades without heart rate monitors. Current thoughs in some camps is to dump heart rate altogether. For someone just wanting to get fit and loose some weight, heartrate monitoring is usually an interesting distraction. The drive for it comes down from pro level sports to trainers and manufacturers selling 'extras'.

Unless you know you maximum heart rate (The 220-age formula is wrong as often as its right - do not use it), a monitor gives little useful information, and is more likely to put you wrong. You also need your aerobic threshold for it to anything more than marginally useful. Its very hard to establish aerobic threshold without knowing average heart rate, but you also need to know a lot more than just average.....

You should use the watch during training to ensure you are in your target bands- just look at the watch occationally. The proviso is  that you can accurately establish the correct heart rate bands. If you have a trainier, averages, time in band etc might help them tune your training program, but if you had a trainer, they would tell you if this is needed.


Will this electric air pump suit my tires and work for me?

In my experience, batteries are frequently flat when you need them.   This unit has the likelyhood of sitting unused for months, going flat, and then being useless when you really need it.
I strongly suggest you get a manual mini-pump instead.  Sure it'll be slow, but its more likely to work when you need it.   High tech is not always appropriate.

Based on the cost, you could easily buy a nice minipump for in your pocket/bag while riding, AND have the luxury of a floor pump (aka a track pump) to leave at home for maintenance.
I personally carry a mini-floor pump on one bike.  Though I use the floor pump weekly for top-ups, I only use the mini pumps when something goes wrong (for me or someone else who didn't bring one! )
Adding USB doesn't make things better.

Here's a review of two electric air pumps.  https://cyclingtips.com/2020/03/xiaomi-mijia-vs-fumpa-electric-tire-inflators-reviewed/  Neither are the one you suggested, but the general points are still relevant.

Neither are intended for riding with.

noise and vibration

1 minute and 24 seconds to inflate a 700×25 mm tire to 80 psi,

had me questioning why I don’t just reach for my floor pump

recorded the Mi at 85 dB, while the Fumpa has a wake-the-neighbours 99 dB output. In both cases, you’ll want to reinflate your tires the night before you sneak out for your early-morning ride.

Upshot Buy a minipump for your pocket for emergencies, and a floor pump to keep at home.


This is termed the "B-axle Cap C-ring."  It's a split ring and can be removed by widening the split and prying out.  It retains the rest of the cap assembly.  Shimano doesn't specify this as a separate part number in their technical documents, but rather lumps it into the "B-axle Cap Unit".  You may have to purchase the whole assembly to acquire this ring.

On page 18 of this Dealers Manual, one can check out the directions for removal of this assembly.  In your case it may be possible to snap the ring back in if there no damage that has misshapen it or it's seat in the cap assembly.


The helmet itself is (probably) polysterene foam inner and a harder plastic shell, it's fine to wash this in water and some mild detergent (eg dish soap)

You can try and wash the straps in hot soapy water.

The problem is the pads. Usually washing the pads means that they come unglued, the surface layers separate from the inner cushion part. All you can do is keep the extra ones you get to size a new helmet and swap them.

I don't know if pro racing type helmets come with multiple sets of replaceable straps and pads - but they should.


Tapered suspension fork on a 2003 Surly Karate Monkey frame

Beyond rebuilding the frame with a tapered headset, not practical.

Effectively you need to fit an 1.5" OD tube into a 1.125" ID hole. This could theoretically be done by using a spacer and locating the taper part of the steerer under the frame.

The effect would be raise the headset height and change the bikes geometry. The advantages of the tapered headset would be negated very quickly by the changed geometry, and the loss of stiffness and extra weight using a spacer would offset all the advantages of a tapered headset. i.e. The bike would be less stiff, heavier and have a poorer geometry.


21 speed front gears go 1 to 2 to 3 and 3 to 1, but not 3 to 2

This is often caused by either too much friction in the derailleur cables or the derailleur being sticky because they weren't lubricated. The derailleur is trying to pull itself down from 3 to 2 but isn't strong enough until you change to 1, which is when there's enough tension to bring it all the way down to 1.

You have to either reduce the friction in the spring or in the cable.

Clean your derailleur with a degreaser and relube with a good oil.
Then try to lubricate your cables (unless you have teflon inner cables, which are only found on more expensive / newer bikes) with a dry graphite or teflon lube.
If that doesn't work, I'd replace your front derailleur cables. The cable housing and inner  is about 10-15 eurodollars and you might be able to do it yourself. The only special tools you need are hex wrenches, Allen keys, or a screwdriver for the derailleur, cable cutter for the inner derailleur cable, and neednose pliers to crimp the cable ferrule.

Or you can ask your shop to do it. Should be only 0.5 hours labor.


You have the version of those cranks that came with French pedal threads (M14x1.25).

I believe there's enough material to tap them to standard 9/16x20. The difference in diameter is very slight. It's important and not trivial to get the tap going in square.


There's a number of things that affect and can be tuned to adjust chainline.

Bottom bracket shell width. If the bottom bracket is wider, the chainline is going to be further out.
Bottom bracket spindle length. A longer spindle can be used in a narrower shell to give the same chainline as a wider shell.
Crank sizing. Cranks are usually designed towards a certain chainline and mixing and matching these can alter it.
Chainring positioning. You can space out your chainrings to move them further from the crank spider.
Frame spacing, hub size & dishing. Using these you can build a hub that is farther to one side than the other and dish the wheel back to the center line.

Most of these adjustments are time consuming and a hassel, or need you yo carefully buy new parts. If this is bike has a derailler then your chainline is never going to be correct anyway and I wouldn't worry about it.

So, to answer your question, the frame tends to set a lower limit to the chainline in the front and an upper limit in the rear. With careful component choice you can always make a good chainline (most framebuiders are unlikely to stick a 73mm BB on a frame with 120mm rear spaceing, I would guess).


Do DC HUB Motors For Electric Bikes use regenerative braking?

For the most part, no.

The main problem is that you don't brake for very long compared to a normal battery charging cycle, so regenerative braking doesn't match the battery very well. Some systems use supercapacitors because they're designed for this sort of situation, but those are expensive and heavy in a bicycle application. Motors also typically don't work as well generating as motors, so they'll be less efficient, meaning a standard 250W motor might put out 200W as a generator.

The physics is pretty simple: a 100kg rider travelling at 36km/hr (10m/s) has E = 1/2 m v² = .5 x 100 x 10² = 5000 joules of energy. That's 5000 Watt-seconds. If you gently brake to a standstill in 5 seconds you're putting 1000W into your brakes, assuming no air resistance.

A typical battery is 36V and about 15AH, = 36 x 15 x 60 x 60 = 1,944,000 Joules or 2MJ, and takes 4-10 hours to charge. Pushing 5kJ into that isn't going to make a lot of difference - it's a 2000/5 = 4% recharge, assuming 100% efficiency. And you're not going to get 100%.

A much better scenario is either you pedal against the regenerative brakes, or you spend half an hour going down a long steep-ish hill, generating 200W all the way. Since a typical rider puts out 150-250 watts, for you to charge at that power level will mean pedalling very hard - you're going to need 300W or more to keep the bike moving, more like 500W taking into account all the losses. A world-class cyclist can put out 500W for an hour... and after that hour, the battery will be 30-50% charged.

This google search gave me a good explanation, a dismissal of the idea, some strongly held opinions and a couple of production bikes that have it.


I used to ride with skate shoes for a year and it was not good. I didn't know it.

Generally skate shoes:

bend more than MTB shoes so they'll not transfer all of your energy on the pedals
do not have sticky soles so riding on rough trails may be harder and more dangerous due to the feet constantly changing position on the pedals

Regarding non racing BMXers they don't usually care about pedaling efficiency nor grip on their feet.


How does riding on bumpy road while suspension fork locked and without slow down effects?

On a bumpy but fairly level road, absent any suspension, energy goes three places:

Friction between tire and road
Wind resistance
Vibrating your body up and down

The reason #3 is a factor is that you jiggle as you ride, and that absorbs a lot of energy -- the more you jiggle, the more energy is required.

You can reduce jiggle by using lower air pressure in the tires, but this increases tire/road friction.  You can add front and/or rear suspension to reduce jiggle, but the suspension itself absorbs energy, plus it tends to make pedaling less efficient.

So it's a tradeoff -- at some point in the transition between smooth and really rough roads it probably pays, in terms of energy efficiency, to unlock the shocks.