Bought a frame one size larger, how to fit for slightly smaller rider?

Think of bike fit as a triangle, looking at a rider on a bike from the side, with a point of the triangle at the hands, a point at the saddle sit position, and one at the bottom bracket. Now with the bottom bracket position being fixed, it isn't always possible to replicate the exact angles and lengths of the triangle from one bike to another, but between one size and the next, you usually can get close enough to be considered equivalent.

You will want to lower the saddle height, adjust the saddle forward/back slider more forward towards the hands, and you will want a shorter stem, perhaps with a modified angle to get your hands where you want them. You should also consider the length of the crank arms, as sometimes manufacturers will configure different crank arm lengths for different size bikes. Most bikes are sold with longer than ideal crank arms anyway, and should be one of the first components considered for replacement. The main concern with frame size (aside from stand-over height), is the angle of the line drawn between the bottom bracket and the saddle sit position, as that affects the angles and forward/back position of the knees throughout the pedal stroke, and also where the rider's center of gravity is centered between the front and rear wheels (which is a primary input to how the bike handles or feels). A secondary consideration is the stem length, as too short and it will negatively affect steering characteristics.

Most will prefer a smaller frame configured larger rather than the opposite, with the added weight due to more frame material of the larger bike often cited as a complaint. I'm riding an undersized frame presently, with a lay-back seat post, and I look forward to having a better fitting bike someday where I don't feel so much like I'm sitting right over the rear wheel. It feels a little too twitchy; having the center of mass more between the wheels makes it feel a little more like you are riding in the bike rather than on top of it.


Is there a difference of spacing between cogs on a 7 speed cassette vs a 8 speed cassette?

Yes, there is. Shimano/SRAM & compatible seven speed is 5mm cog-to-cog, and eight is 4.8mm. Generally what you're trying to do here can't be made to work very well. There are some tricks that without any additional parts can increase the movement of the derailer, but not decrease it. Also if you have a true 7-speed-only chain (not common anymore but they exist, KMC Z50 is one example) it won't work well on 8.

A shop not having anything to offer to make the conversion work is pretty unfathomable. The "correct" spacer is a 4.5mm one, but the only thing that makes it correct is that's the number that locates the cassette exactly where an actual Shimano 7-speed hub would, so you could theoretically swap wheels without adjusting the derailer. Any other stack of correct internal diameter spacers in the 4-5mm or so range will still work, so if this shop was too new-stuff-oriented to have a 7->8 spacer, they should just sell you a 2.5mm bottom bracket spacer (ubiquitous modern shop item) plus a 1.8mm 10->11 hub spacer (ubiquitous modern shop item). That will work perfectly.


What about other components of the pedal interface? The threads? The threaded insert in a carbon crank? How about the cranks themselves?

I'll use the "pardo" durability index to answer. The durability index is based on the number of failures at http://pardo.net/bike/pic/index.html.
For pedals, we see three failure events.
For cranks, we see 55 failure events.
So it seems based on this that the crank pedal eye fails far easier than the pedal connected to it.
One reason is that the pedal to crank attachment has a design flaw, and the crank, being made of aluminum, is the component that suffers as opposed to the pedal spindle made from steel, a far stronger material. The design flaw can be seen from the left pedal having a left hand thread -- a proper design would not be sensitive to threading direction. It can also be seen from old cranks, from which the removal of pedals sometimes is a Herculean effort and even when it isn't, the pedal eye of the crank is visibly worn. The pedal to crank pedal eye attachment should have a 45 degree taper, similar to automotive lug nuts.
Of course, non-catastrophic failures of cheap plastic pedals happen often. Those are used only in inexpensive bicycles intended for little kilometers in their lifetime, for light riding.


Places with car roads turned into bike roads

In my city, they shut down the parkway and the roads in the provincial park on Sunday mornings during the summer for bicycle traffic only. Its a great way to get people out on their bikes when they aren't comfortable in traffic. It also helps relieve congestion on the shared bike/walk paths that would be just swarmed with riders in these areas if they didn't close the roads. The roads aren't really that busy outside of weekday rush hour traffic anyway.


Based on their website - they don't sell fatbikes.  The two models of full-squish bike are called "wild cup" and "wild one"
https://www.bullsbikesusa.com/wild-cup.html

But the images show "normal" sized tyres, and distinctively different top-mount for the shock.
So either its a model no-longer sold, it's from a different company with a similar name, or it is a knock-off.
Ask the giver for the paperwork so you can "register the warranty" and do enjoy your new bike.


Generally road tubeless is road tubeless and going to the 25 should be fine.


Can't change into the largest sprocket on rear derailleur

Just about any new bike you ever purchase will need a good tune up after the first 100 miles, not unlike a lot of cars or motorcycles. It's perfectly normal for most of the parts, especially parts under tension like brakes and cables, to settle and loosen a bit the first few times you ride the bike.

It's likely that the cable for the rear shifter has loosened a little bit and needs to be tightened, or the limit screw has settled. The shop you bought the bike from should have no problem performing the tune up for you, it's very common practice ( and if they try to charge you for it, hesitate to give them your business, the 100 mile tune-up should be complimentary ).


Shimano 105 5600 derailleur compatability with 105 5700 11-28 casette

As long as the 5600 and 5700 cassettes contained the same number of gears, the two cassettes will be interchangeable. They're both 10-speed, so you'll be fine. You'd have had problems going from a 9- to 10-speed, or going from a 10- to 11-speed. The reason in each case would be because of chain width.

update - as @jimirings points out, the RD-5600 is spec'd to only support cogs with up to 27 teeth, so it is possible there may be problems, although I'd have thought it unlikely. (In fact I too am riding a "28" cassette with a "27" derailleur and have not seen any ill effects.) If you're really concerned about this, possible workarounds would be using a different variant of the CS-5700, or upgrading to an RD-5700. If you're willing to spend to upgrade your crankset, the additional cost of a rear derailleur is quite small.

Incidentally, if you're wanting to go compact, why are you changing to rear mech? I mean, its no problem if you want to do this, just as long as you realise you don't need to do this.

To go compact, you can just replace your current crankset with a FC-5750, or even with an FC-5650 if you can find one. Try looking on eBay, you may find a bargain.


What are the times and costs involved in assembling a rideable bicycle from a salvaged frame?

This is the classic "how long is a piece of string" question, where almost any answer is valid.

At one end you have a frame.  And enough skills and time to assemble a bike, along with the desire/need.  If you can source every part you need from your spares boxes, then the cost is nothing more than your time.

On the other end if all you have is a frame, then every other part needs to be sourced.  Subject to finances and availability, you might be scrounging through auction listings and waiting for the right parts to come up, or you might simply purchase the parts new from a LBS.   Here the costs could range from "minimal" to "extreme" to "costs more than a new bike complete with warranty"

How far on that slippery slope you go is completely up to you.
A competent mechanic could assemble a bike from new clean compatible parts in an hour or two.   If you're working to mate up dirty worn and possibly incompatible parts, then the time component will naturally grow.
If you put a dollar value on each hour of your time, then the balance of the entire equation changes.
Personally, I enjoy making a bike better, so to me that's relaxing time, more productive than watching TV.

Tools  Bikes need some special tools for different tasks.  While most assembly can be done with basic tools like hex/screwdrivers/wrenches/etc, you may require more custom ones like cone spanners, cassette/freehub tools, BB tool, cable cutters, nipple drivers etc.  Buying serviceable tools is wise, they will last for life and you likely need these tools again in the future.  But that's also an added cost.
Many cities have "Bicycle Cooperatives" of some sort.  They may offer fixed up used bikes for small cost, or access to those tools along with expertise and advise.  Use a search engine to find the ones near you, or ask around.

Ultimately noone can tell you if something is worth doing.
IMO if the bike can be made rideable and safe, its worth doing.
Fixing a bike is it's own reward.


Shimano 9 speed road hub compatible with XT 11 speed cassette

Changing from a 9 speed road to 11 speed mountain raises many, many questions, but answering your specific query:

An 11 speed mountain cassette will fit on a '9 speed' hub. The freehub body width used is the same for mountain 11 speed and below and road 10 speed and below. Road 11 speed cassettes generally requires a slightly wider freehub body. The mountain 11 speed cassette will fit because the larger sprockets can overhang the hub and spokes a little.


The brake lever of Shimano's BL-MT200 is too long for me, can I modified it to a shorter one?

MT200 has what is called  Reach Adjustment - which brings the level closer to the handle bars. To do this you need  a small hex key (Can't remember i its 2 or 2.5mm).

Also when mounting the brakes you are best to mount them inboard with about 2-3cm from the handgrip. I prefer to have the shifters mounted outboard of the brake lever, but thats personal preference.


How do I re-insert a chain pin that has been pushed completely out?

What type of chain - Shimano have chain connector pins for exactly this task for many of their chains. Note the pin must exactly match the chain.  If you have a length of the same chain (I always keep the left overs when I put ion a new chain) break the chain again and remake the chain with the leftovers.

I have (in desperation - bike shops 100km away, no spare chain parts), used a vice and pointy grips to do press the pin in - the repair was dodgy but got us on the road.

Alternately, use a quick link or a new chain.


Can I install the double brakes on the tt handlebars?

As long as you can find a way to physically attach the brake levers you want to use you should be able to install a dual brake lever system on your bike. There are so called 'inline brake levers' which you could use for this purpose, they don't require you to buy a brake line splitter which makes them easy to install. They look like this:

Alternatively you could use a 'brake cable splitter', something similar to this:

Another option:

Yet another:

The 'cable splitter' approach is needed if you want to use 2 sets of bar end levers, since these (to my knowledge) don't come in inline versions.


I do not have a dahon brand bike, but folder latches are all reasonably similar because they do exactly the same purpose.

Latch in closed position, with safety removed.  Front of bike is to the right.

Latch half-opened.  Notice the lever is connected to the latch by a cam mechanism, so as the lever moves the latch moves.  You cannot have the latch closed and the lever open.

Latch is now fully open, and the frame is free to fold.

Finally - here's a shot from the front showing the two grub screws used to adjust the seating position of the latch.  Too far in and the closed joint has play, too far out and the latch is hard to close fully.

Finally - the safety.  This bike doesn't have one because it fell off unnoticed and was lost.  So we use a velcro strap around the frame and it works fine.

The safety was a black plastic block which was screwed to frame just forward of the hinge (you can see the threadded boss in the photos.)  The safety block dropped into that slot you can see in the lever, and was held there by gravity only.  Not confidence inspiring.


Damage to bearings from press fit bb removal?

The major concern is that whenever the inner race gets loaded to extract the bearing, it's subject to getting damaged. BB86 and BB92 cups don't get removed by bonking the inner race, rather the plastic cup, and so if one of those types of bottom bracket felt good before removal, I think re-using it is fine. The "rocket ship" type tools (Park BBT-90.3) do have the ability to chew up the plastic cups where they make contact, and I've seen this be significant although it usually isn't. Usually the interference fit is pretty "gentle" on BB86 and BB92.

All of the systems that involve bearing cartridges pressed directly into the frame (BB30, BB90/95, others) are prone to the bearing race surfaces getting damaged during removal. If you were to reinstall them there might be notchiness and drag, and probably to some degree will be. That doesn't mean they won't have any kind of service life at all. If the bearings were  clearly in good condition when you started, and it's your own bike or a charity case, re-pressing them may be reasonable. It's a judgment call and you may not like the result, or it may be fine. A shop doing it for a paying customer would be bad.


TdF - Mountain stages without a front derailleur?

Looking at related discussions on reddit it seems he was using a "old style" down tube shifter instead of one on the brake lever.

In the photo, you can see the shifter close to his left knee.

There are other photos showing the same set-ups.


How much of a difference would shifting from a (24/34/44, 14x28) to a (28/38/48, 11x34) configuration make when going downhill?

38% is a huge difference, and very noticeable on road. Since the bike you are considering has 622mm rims, it adds even more to the effective gear ratio.


What rear brake should I get for a Surly Steamroller?

The steamroller will work (for the last 5 years at least) with a standard reach rear brake. Any model will do. As for housing stops, you must use a full length housing, and zipp tie it to the top tube of the frame, or have someone add riveted stops. Full length housing is easier, cheaper, and doesn't void your warranty.


Raleigh Alpine 4.2 Shimano front wheel and rear brakes assembly

The internet is replete with resources for bike assembly and maintenance. Park Tool Company has a particularly comprehensive set of articles and YouTube videos.

Wheel axle obviously fits into the slots in the dropouts in the fork, and then the nuts are tightened on the axle. I imagine you need to know if the washers go inside or outside the dropout slots.

Check out this article, look for a section titled "Solid Axle Systems", You can see that the tab washers go outside and fit into a hole in the dropout.


I've only ever used wired computers because they seemed more reliable. However, I have a friend who uses a wireless computer.

The biggest problem I've observed is that when he starts riding after a rest he has to make sure he 'wakes up' his computer otherwise it won't track the ride until he does. He's forgotten (and lost ride data) often enough that this is a big dealbreaker for me.


Keeping my ears warm while biking in the cold with a helmet

Try searching for the term "ear band". They tend to be thin enough to comfortably wear under a helmet, and the good ones are fully wind-resistant, yet breathable.

If you have an open ventilation-style helmet, I recommend a helmet cover as well, which is a fabric sleeve that stretches over the top of the helmet which also significantly cuts wind passing through, and may be easier to use instead of a jacket hood (not to mention more streamlined). Install once per season.

Balaklavas or "dickies" are also good to protect the neck and shoulders, and there are also polar fleece neck warmers that may be more comfortable and can bunch up nicely under the back of the helmet.

Any quality of biking glasses/goggles are useful, too — look for ones with clear lenses — which will ensure your eyes don't get a full blast of cold directly.


Can anyone suggest a way to mount my rack to prevent it impeding the rear brake?

You shouldn't even need to heat up the arms.  Just bend them whichever way you'd like; it's easiest if you have access to a vice.  You might even look at having them make an 'X', if that pulls the mounting arm away from the brake.   By design, the horizontal stays should have a minimum amount of force on them - they handle keeping the rack from rotating forward and aft while the bulk of the weight is transmitted down the vertical stays.

You could also get p-clamps and attach the rack stays lower or higher as needed to clear the brake.


Front derailleur not reaching the "L" screw!

Either the inboard travel of the derailleur cage is limited by the adjustment of the shifter cable rather than the limit screw, or there is something impeding the derailleur movement.

if the shift cable is tight and you can move the derailleur by adjusting the barrel adjuster then the derailleur is not up against the limit screw.

If the cable is loose, or you can manually push the derailleur up against the limit screw there is something impeding the derailleur movement. Excess friction or binding of the cable in the housing is a common cause of this.

You can pull the cable out of the housing, clean and lubricate with a small amount of chain lube, or just replace the cable and housing as they are not very expensive.


How do I get rid of odor from cycling shoes?

Simple, yet powerful solution - pour max 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda, found in any store) into the shoes before or after wearing them. It will kill the bacteria and any other "stuff" that produces bad smell.

It has no negative effects on skin whatsoever, except when applying it to freshly shaven skin - as it may cause inflammation of the skin (but, hey - everything does under that conditions).

It also doesn't paint socks or shirts (if you use it as a deodorant replacement).

I use it on daily basis. Also, it's great if you don't want the irritations on skin from the deodorants.

Sodium Bicarbonate is odorless itself.

More info on Sodium Bicarbonate

Cheers!


There’s only really two possibilities: either something is broken or you didn’t assemble the fork correctly.

You can disassemble the fork and recheck all your work, or you can go to a local bike repair shop.

From your description of the fork behavior I’d guess that there is too much oil somewhere or oil in the wrong place.


What's this? Photo of bicycle with pedals by the rear wheel

There are bicycles with a crankshaft that runs through the rear axle. The "Tur Meccanica Bi Bici" is such a bicycle:

I can't tell from your picture if it's the same bike or not, but it certainly could be.


How do you tune a suspension air shock on a bike for light riders like me?

Looking at the specs it does not appear to have an adjustable air shock. Bikes at this price point typically use either a coil spring or a gas strut (similar to the type that holds the hatchback open on a car). The dampening rate is set by the manufacturers design. In some cases larger frame sizes will be stiffer than smaller sizes. The reason being that if you are taller you typically weigh more and need a stiffer suspension. This also means that if you are tall and thinner than average the suspension will be too stiff. Some forks will have a plastic knob that when turned counter-clockwise will give a slightly softer ride. You can try to soften the ride by lowering the pressure in the tires. This can only do so much before you start getting flats from pinching the tubes.


Brake pads constantly touching the rotor because piston is not moving back

I left the spacer in overnight. The Piston now goes all the way back. Guess I was just too impatient :)


Probably you need to service that hub - or get it serviced by your LBS.  That much drag means that either it's full of dirt, or the grease has completely dried up or water contaminated, or the bearings have collapsed.

None of those are likely to be fatal, but you would be well advised to open that hub up and clean it out, check the bearings, and re-grease it.  Or have your shop do it for you.


You should check out Mountain Trax. They have specifically gone down the route of bike fit and spent some time training in the US with the developer of the system. They are one of the best bikes shops in the south and I would class their service before and after sales as the best I have encountered.
They are based in Barkham, Wokingham and can easily be reach from the M3 or M4.


Replacing a normal hub with a dynamo hub

I hope you are aware of the fact that replacing the hub requires re-lacing/rebuilding the complete wheel. I was about to suggest using a spoke dynamo, e.g. Sunup Eco MaxiDyn 6V12W but after seeing a price tag (far above €200) I came to the conclusion that rebuilding the wheel with a hub of €50 is still cheaper.

Furthermore, Sunup is to be mounted on the rear wheel, where the OP has already a cassette and brake disc on both sides, hence no space for the dynamo.

Some years ago AUFA was delivering front wheel mounted spoke dynamos, unfortunately they are nowhere to be found now.

Coming back to the original question: bicycle voltage generators, afaik, are standardised on 6V and the one you've chosen is capable of 3W of power. This means that any standard bicycle lighting is suitable as long at the total consumed power does not exceed 3W (e.g. front light of max 2.5W and rear light of max 0.5W).


How to configure an Avid Speed Dial brake

Avid does provide a user manual for the Speed Dial 7 that describes what the different adjusters do. Just google 'avid speed dial 7 manual':

https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign.netdna-ssl.com/cdn/farfuture/Bv5FmtpDsTVHw9CpVeB-YkdnOyinFNaPxEkOXTgCQdA/mtime:1372788167/sites/default/files/techdocs/speed-dial-7-install.pdf

Sometimes you just have to go old school and read the manual, rather than looking for someone to explain it on YouTube  :-)

From the diagram in the user guide one can see that the adjustment moves the attachment point of the cable to change how much cable is pulled for per unit of lever pull.

At one extreme the caliper will engage quickly, but more force on the lever will be required, and less modulation control will be available (will be harder to stop the wheel locking); at the other end the brake will engage more slowly, but you will need less force on the lever and modulation will be easier.


Good type of bike to get for commuting (thinking of road v touring)

There are a bunch of bikes sold in the UK that are specifically designed for the cycle-to-work scheme: they have good specs for commuting, are priced to come in under the £1000 limit, etc. A number of online vendors stock these. So that would be a good place to start. Or find someone selling one of those bikes used.

The additional weight of a steel bike is not that significant. Less than 1 kg. When you get done fitting mudguards, racks, lights, a toolkit, and whatever you're schlepping to work, you won't really notice the difference. That said, as Argenti points out, you'll probably be shopping for either steel or aluminum. They're both good options.

Also budget for the clothing and accessories you'll need to ride comfortably and safely. That would be a subject for another post entirely.


I want to switch my front and back brakes

Assuming you have cable operated brakes, the basic answer is you have to detach the cables at the brake calipers, and pull the cables out of the housings through the levers. The levers hold the cable via a boss swaged onto the end of the cable, so that’s the only way to get the cables out. You can then switch which levers the the front and housing rear housings run to and re-thread the cables.
Cable strands often get unraveled by the pinch bolts that hold the cables on the calipers which makes the cables impossible to thread back through the housings, so new cables from the outset are a good idea.
You may encounter difficulties with switching the housings between levers depending on the existing housing routing.
You also need to know how to re-adjust the brake calipers when you re-attach the cables, but good quality guides are easily found on the web.
If you have hydraulic operated brakes things are more complicated. Hoses can be swapped but you have to deal with avoiding spilling hydraulic fluid and bleeding both brakes afterwards.


First, about flat bars...

Flat bar - one hand position, all of them uncomfortable. It isn't about the type of bars. It's about your posture on the bike.  Drop bars provide a lot of different hand positions, and that's really very useful on longer rides.  Flat bars don't. Imagine doing a 5-6 hour ride with only one way to put your hands on the bars.  If you don't like being bent over, there are drop bar bikes that have you in an upright posture just like you'd be on a straight bar bike.

As for this:

  I rested my forearms on the flat bar and this took all the pain away. My question is this: Could this be indicative that my body prefers this more aerodynamic position?

Probably not.  That probably just means leaning forward and resting your forearms on the handlebar put less weight on your sit bones, both by rotating your hips forward and putting more weight on other parts of your nether regions and allowing your arms to also take some weight. Your arms/shoulders and those "other parts" might not feel so good when you're in that position for a long time while riding.

So you won't really know if you'd be more comfortable in that position until you've actually been riding for a while.

And when you first start riding, there will be things that are painful because your body simply isn't used to doing that.

Your bottom will hurt for a week or two no matter what your posture is.  Don't go out and buy some big, thick, gooey "gel" saddle to "fix" that, or anything else.  It will go away.  Probably.  There's a reason why almost no one who rides bicycles for long distances or long periods of time rides anything but saddles that to the uninitiated look too hard and too small:  they're actually the most comfortable once your body is used to it.  Such saddles don't move when you pedal.  Big, soft saddles will move around under you when you ride.  Movement means friction.  Friction over hours means holes in shorts and holes in skin...  Any padding comes from your shorts, and with good shorts that pad does not move against your skin at all.

Because saddles are like shoes - they either "fit" and you can ride them, or they don't.  And everyone is different.  Unlike shoes, however, you can't tell for certain until you've actually ridden them for a good while.  Multiple hours, probably.  At least after the initial "OMG! I've never ridden a bicycle a long time before!" pains subside.

The good thing is most people can ride any decent saddle for a good bit, so you won't likely have to play "musical saddles", trying different saddle after different saddle to get the one that works for you until you've started doing multiple-hour-long rides.

Don't overthink it - most people can ride a pretty wide range of bikes for a decent amount of time without any problems.  There is no "one right bike" or "one right way to ride".

Just make sure you get a bike you want to ride.  Getting something cheaper that you don't like and therefore don't want to ride is a waste of money.  Just note one thing:  there are a lot of people who buy flat-bar/hybrid bikes who wind up riding a lot who then go out and buy a "faster" drop bar bike.  Almost no one who rides a lot and who started out buying a drop bar bike then goes out and buys a flat bar/hybrid bike.

Be sure, though, to have enough budget to address problems that may arise.  If you blow your entire budget on your bike, then find out you need to swap saddles around or get better shoes because your feet start hurting an hour into your rides, you need to be able to address that.


What is needed to change a set of wheels? + advice RE the cassette size

Those wheels come either with a Campagonolo compatible freehub; or a Shimano/SRAM compatible freehub.

If you buy the one for Shimano/SRAM (as of this writing, out of stock in Wiggle), you'll be able to use your existing cassette. To quote @PeteH:

  "The 9-speed Shimano cassette that you already have, the total height
  of it is the same as the total heights of their their 10- and 11-speed
  cassettes. So any of them will fit onto a wheel, provided as @yivi
  says you have the correct freehub. Therefore you're not obliged to
  change from 9-speed."

Otherwise, you'd need to switch to a Campagnolo 10/11 cassette, and presumably change a few more things in your drivetrain for compatibility sake. You can mix and match (compatible) SRAM and Shimano components, but I think that for the most part Campagnolo is not compatible with them.

You do need to have the proper tools to do it though. A cassette lockring tool and a chainwhip

Then, it's as easy as this:


Railroad Power lines interfering with Heart rate Monitor

Hmmm... I smell a science project!  If the field is really strong be aware that optical may not work either because the chips/wireless probably aren't shielded anyway. Assuming you don't need laps for training, you could try hitting your lap button so at least you know when the event happens. I suppose you could try an experiment by taping aluminum foil to your chest covering the monitor pickups but not the wireless unit. That might tell you if the shielding issue is in the leads as I suspect or in the main unit that picks up the wireless. Ask yourself if the speed/cadence monitors wireless signals are being received to indicate whether an optical monitor might work.


Is threadless a noticeable difference from threaded headset setups?

Threadless forks aren't a significant upgrade in any way other than weight and simplicity of setup/maintenance.

Depending on exactly what the steerer tube is made of and how much is exposed above the headset, they can be stiffer when pulling on the bars in a sprint, but for the other 99.9% of the time there is no difference.

Having said that, I'd would never go back. The advantages in weight and maintenance are well worth it.

P.S. You should really double check your measurements, a 1.125 inch threaded headset is a relatively rare item. They were made, but only for a few years and as far as I know only on mountain bikes and tandems. It would be very rare to find one on a road bike of any vintage.


Yes its totally possible.  The single-cog version is one way to make a single-speed on a multispeed wheel.

The downsides are that you don't gain any lateral strength in the rear wheel because it is still offset, and that the single or fewer cogs are pressing into the freehub with far smaller area, so you're much more likely to damage your aluminium freehub.   See How to prevent freehub body damage?

In your case you want a couple of gears but not all of them, so you would fit the 3-5 cogs you want, and then pack the rest with spacer as per the photo.   Don't put spacers between the cogs.   Aim to have the cogs so the middle one is in the middle of the freehub, which will give the straightest chainline.

Then adjust the high and low limit screws on your Rear Derailleur mechanism.  Its quite possible they won't go in far enough, and you may need to find some longer screws with the same thread to do the job.


Is it normal that the tyre fits effortless the rim?

Not all tires are hard to put on (depends on type) and rims also have a variation in size (both between different types of rims and sample to sample variation within one model). In fact, I'd say many tires for urban and mountain bikes can be mounted without tools if you know how to. There are obviously counterexamples that are notorious for being tight.

Unless you can get the tire off easily and without tools too, you should be fine.


How does this work? "Rotor BB30 to 24mm Steel Road Bottom Bracket"

The Rotor product you've linked to is supposed to be used with integrated 24mm cranksets, mostly Shimano Hollowtech ones, so that option won't suit for mentioned cranksets. As far as I know, tourney requires square taper bottom bracket and you already said that Claris needs an Octalink bb.

You can use a BB30 to BSA interface adapter like SRAM PressFit 30 to BSA Adaptor Kit. With it in place, it's possible to install any suitable english threaded bottom bracket, be it square taper or Octalink. If you don't have a BB yet, you'll have to get one.


A quick Google search turned up a thread at BikeForums that seems to have a consensus that 40mm is about the max size.  Depending on the particular tire and how inflated it is, a 42mm tire might fit.


Please tell me what type of bike this is?

It seems to be what some call a BSO: Bike Shaped Object. (This is a derogative term).

It indeed mimics a Mountain Bike, a Dual Suspension Mountain Bike, but as you state it is really heavy, it means it is made of steel, and not necessarily good grade steel.

From what the picture shows, it also appears to be fitted with low level components, but the headset appears to be 1 1/4 inch and fitted with a good RST fork with threadless steerer tube and stem. The rear suspension looks really cheap.


Massive and sudden increase in heart rate and vomiting after when cycling

Go to a doctor - this sounds dangerous. Anything you see on SE is not a substitute for professional medical advice and it sounds like you really need to see one.


Highest gear much harder to pedal after repair - did the repair break something?

If you only feel the chain when in the hardest gear, maybe the chain is rubbing somewhere or maybe the chain is being squeezed by the frame of the bike.

Put the bike in the hardest gear and turn it upside down. Pedal by hand while seeing if the chain has enough clearance everywhere. You may find your problem this way.


As Nathan Knutson pointed out in a comment, squeezing the lever should move the pistons and pads inward. Do this with the wheel and rotor installed to avoid popping the pistons out of their holes (that would be messy).

It seems likely that the pads will rub again unless you do something else to correct the problem.

Possible causes of pad-rubbing include:

The caliper is not aligned properly with respect to the rotor.
The rotor is bent.
The pistons are not able to fully retract after the brake is
applied. This can be caused by sticky pistons or worn-out piston seals.
There's too much fluid in the system. If the brakes worked well since the last bleed, this probably isn't the problem.


How are the wheels spokes laced in the bikes you buy at shops?

Manufacturers will use machines to build the wheels, however on top end bikes the manufacturer will build the wheels by hand (a skilled wheel builder's work is considered better than that of a machine).
Your LBS will unlikeley have a machine to build wheels and this will be done by hand.

So in summary. New bike - wheel was most likeley build by machine. Repairs - wheel was almsot certainley built by hand.

As @arne said. You can search youtube for "cycle wheel building machine"


Short answer: It sounds pretty unbelievable to me, but you could try pedalling with easier gears and spinning legs faster instead of applying lots of power.


A 10K commute is pretty short, I would say almost too short for a racing style bike for several reasons. I would recommend you look at tourer or hybrid bikes. Allow me to explain.

You say you are not really interested in comfort. I assume you will ride in your regular clothes. This is a bad combination. When done regularly, no matter the amount of discomfort you are prepared to take. A hard saddle and stiff frame, combined with the seams-in-stupid-places of your regular outfit will wear you down. Moreover, 5 days a week, regardless of weather means dirt everywhere, even on paved roads. Your clothes will get dirty, and you might even get mud in your hair, so you'd need to shower. But with a 10K commute the time it takes to change clothes and shower takes up a significant part of the total time you spend commuting. (if showers are available at your place of work). Some comfort -a good saddle and fenders- will save you time and pain.

Then there is the matter of durability. Think about the appointment you will miss because you had a flat 5K into your commute and you had to either walk 5K or take the time to fix the flat. This is just one of the many things that can break. Remember: "regardless of the weather" so dirt will accumulate, oil will wash off, things might rust. I expect you are not going to spend every weekend meticulously cleaning, checking and oiling everything, so you want durability.

My suggestion for a good commuter bike for 10K one way in your regular clothes would be a touring bike with full fenders (to keep away the mud) a chain guard, puncture proof road tires and a relatively comfortable saddle. This will be heavier, so your top speed will be lower, but any time that costs you you'll easily gain not showering, changing clothes, and fixing your bike.


Does drafting cause resistance to the lead rider?

No, on the contrary the lead rider also gets a boost.

The reason to be unhappy about someone drafting you is that they're too close to be able to react if there's a problem - if you go down they will run over you.

The way I understand the boost is that a solo rider is effectively dragging around a volume of low pressure air - you push the air out of the way creating a high pressure volume in front of you, but that displaced air doesn't magically close in behind you, it flows out then flows back, creating a "missing air" volume behind you. If something fills in that space you don't get sucked back into it as much. There's a mention on wikipedia chain gang (riding) which links to the exploratorium article but not to a primary source that I can see. That explanation is common and makes sense, so I've never chased it further.

Here is a link to a wind tunnel video which shows that the lead rider receives a small benefit from having a drafter.


Extruded aluminum double wall rims are pretty much standard now (they are very much stronger than the cheap single wall rims).

Can you post a link on the bike you currently have ?

Cheap yet good quality wheel :

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=900;page=1;menu=1000,2,140,17;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=2

Update :

OK - it is not a top quality bike, but still a good one that should last quite a bit with proper care (cleaning, lubing, changing chain when it's time, etc). Probably more than 10.000 km. Much much better than budget bikes that are totally destroyed after 1000-2000 km.

So it makes sense to put a good quality 50€ wheel on it.

FYI, I just bought a wheel for 100€, it has a Shimano 3N80 dynamo (which is expensive), excellent quality spokes, and an very tough rim designed for loaded touring (forgot the name).

Basically in bike gear there are three broad "zones" :
- cheap crap
- reasonable price, reasonable quality
- expensive stuff whose purpose is mainly to shave off some weight or survive extreme conditions

Without dynamo, you can get a good quality wheel for 50€ if you shop around. Don't spend 100 quid, it's not necessary. But don't spend 20 quid, you'll get crap.


When engaging the brake lever: the cable loosens and doesn't stay in the other side (where the twisty bit is)

It looks to me like you are pulling too much cable. It even looks like your brake lever is close to being able to bottom out against your levers. In normal operation, brake levers do not come out nearly as much as you have as in the picture.

First thing to check is to make sure your brake pads are not worn out. If they are, replace them. Then re-adjust your brakes so that you have as little clearance as possible without any rim rubbing. If your wheels are so out of true that doing so is very difficult, it would be worth resolving that.

Then, check your brake arm tensioning spring. This will help pull on the cable and to keep the cylindrical cable end seated in the slot on the brake lever. See if you can move the spring to a higher tension setting. Your frames brake post should have three holes in it, you can adjust the tension by removing the brake arm and replacing it with the spring in a different hole, and your brake arm may also have a tension adjustment screw to fine tune it.

And just as a sanity check, make sure the cable isn't slipping through the cable binding bolt when you hit the brakes.


Do skilled cyclists really "use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time"?

Reference - Cyclecraft by John Franklin

  A cycle takes more than twice as far to stop using only the rear brake compared to using only the front brake, which will usually stop the machine just as quickly as using both brakes. Nevertheless, you should always apply the rear brake, and slightly in advance of the front brake, so that a slight skid at the rear will warn you if you get close to the hazard point at which the bike may tip.


Your options can be summarised as tools that push, or tools that pull.
A normal bearing puller can be difficult to use without damaging the paint on the bottom bracket shell.
Park offers this tool for use with BBs that have a 22-24mm shaft diameter:
https://www.parktool.com/product/press-fit-bottom-bracket-bearing-tool-set-bbt-90-3
Other brands may have similar products.
I don't have any bikes with pushfit BBs so I can't comment on reusing a BB removed with such a tool.


We don't recommend products here, Mapmyride is what i and several friends use though, it's free. Does not allow exportation as far as i know.

That is a lot of wants out of an app. You might be better pressed to look into the high end gps enabled cycling computers rather than a phone based app.

Strava is one of the most popular for a reason, it offers more than most app type software. Assuming you don't, If you pay for the premium Strava i believe it unlocks a bit more usage data but i would read up on it before jumping in.

Often times apps ask for permissions for things that won't really effect your personal info, for example if it wants your FB friends list it will automatically link to your friends that have that app as well. Mapmyride gives me notifications that "Bob just rode 6.8 miles" etc.


Adding front derailleur vs upgrading the rear one on a (ladies) bicycle

Your only economically viable option is to get a new 6-speed rear cluster that has a wider range. Adding gears onto the front that bike is going to be almost expensive enough that it's probably not really worth doing. And adding more gears to the rear is effectively impossible. That's an overstatement, but it's waaay more money and work than you want to get into.

To find a compatible rear cluster, you just need to figure out if your bike has a freewheel or cassette. The venerable Sheldon Brown has a great article about what the difference between the two is and how to identify which you have. Once you know which you have, just count the teeth on the largest and smallest rings. Then you can buy one with more teeth on the big ring and less teeth on the smallest ring. If you're really struggling on the hills, look for one with a "granny gear." Shimano markets them as "megarange." Basically, it's just a big gear that's a significant jump from the next biggest gear. It's not useful for much except for crawling up hills.

It's possible that your new cluster will be too big of a range for your current derailleur. It's hard to find precise specs on your bike, so I can't say for sure.You'll have to consult the derailleur manufacturer's technical manual to figure out whether your derailleur will accommodate the wider range of your new cluster.

It's also possible that your chain won't be long enough. I'd probably just put the new rear cluster on and see if you can shift through all the gears. If you can, great. If you can't get up onto the bigger rings, you'll need a longer chain. Sheldon Brown once again has an article on how to find the right chain length for your gear setup.

Even if you need a new chain and derailleur, I'm betting that you could get the whole rear done with comparable parts for well under $100 US, probably closer to $50. If you just need a cassette or freewheel, it'll probably be under $20.

If you're absolutely determined to get gears in the front, you'll definitely need a front derailleur, front shifter, and cables and housing. You'll also need additional chainrings. You can buy them individually if your crankset will accept them. However, it's probably cheaper to just buy a new crankset. You'll also likely need a longer chain, if you haven't already bought one for the rear. You may also need a new bottom bracket with a longer spindle, but maybe not. By the time you're finished with all of that, you're probably talking about at least $100 for just the front, maybe closer to $200. That's somewhere between a quarter and half of the cost of your bike. If you have to buy any tools or pay for labor, it gets even more expensive. If your bike's in decent condition, you're better off selling it and putting that money toward a new bike.


When and how tight should you adjust your clipless pedals?

Two guidelines:

If you're unclipping unexpectedly (happens most often when pulling up) then increase the tension.  That means turning the adjustment bolt clockwise to increase the spring tension.
If you're having trouble clipping in/out then loosen the tension until you can easily clip in/out when you need to.  Turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise to relax the spring.

If you're not having either problem, then no need to adjust at all.  If you're having both, then you'll need to choose which is more important (probably clipping in/out) and adjust for that.

(It's been a while since I used SPDs, but I think double-sided pedals have an adjustment bolt for each side -- make sure to set both the same!)


To me "58cm or so" means, "58cm, maybe 56 or 60." It doesn't mean 54cm. If a professional has said you should be on a 58, you should heed that. 4cm in the wrong direction could place your knees too far forward of the pedal spindles and be less efficient or even cause repetitive stress injuries to your knees.

Instead, try fine tuning your current bike which sounds like is "almost right". You have several options to make the 58cm bike shorter: moving the seat forward on the seatpost, replacing the seatpost with one that has less or no setback, and/or swapping out the stem with one that has a shorter reach. If it's an old Peugeot with a threaded stem, you can also adjust the handlebar height.

The combined cost of making all of those changes to the 58cm would likely be less than buying a different bike.


How many miles to repack bearings or replace on recumbent

Bearings need repacking and ball replacement when the wheel isn't running smoothly, or has crunchiness when rolling.

So it could be time to redo the bearings.  Depending on what system the wheels use, it could be as little as a $5 packet of bearings and 5c worth of grease.

Sealed bearings are even easier - if they feel bad/rattly/noisy, they need replacing.

Specific to your bike, there's probably dirt and wear all over, so fixing one thing might not restore it to original performance.  Consider giving the entire transmission a clean, check the chain for wear, check the tyre's air pressure and that there is no brake rub.


It sounds like you've sorted out the first issue, headset size.  You'll need something with a  1 1/8" (also seen as 1.125" or 9/8") steerer.

Your bicycle's handling is based on the geometry. Changing the axle-to-crown distance will change the angle of your head tube, altering your bicycle's handling significantly.  The other major characteristic of a fork is "rake", or the distance that the axle is in front of an imaginary line down the center of the steerer.  Within 5-10mm of rake change you should notice a fairly minimal effect on the bike's handling, which is good because suspension fork rake is rarely published and measuring it directly is difficult.

The axle-to-crown distance is one factor, to get that right - assuming your bike has an equivalent fork - you should be looking for a "100mm suspension-corrected" rigid fork.  In practice this means a fork with an axle-crown distance of about 455mm.

If you want a 100mm suspension corrected, 26" wheeled fork with disc brakes that also has rack (I'm assuming you mean midfork low-rider rack mounts) and fender mounts, your options list is relatively limited.  The new Surly Troll Fork is likely to be one of your few options.


Finding better routes than bicycle apps suggest

This is an impossible question for the mapping sites to answer. They come up with heuristics about what makes a good route, that will do a pretty good job, but there is fine detail they do not and cannot know. For example, Your route 2 is the easiest on paper, but what if it poorly sealed with course chip and has lots of rubbish and stones in the shoulder. Route 1 has been recently sealed with smooth, fast hot top and has a wide clean shoulder. Route 1 would be better. What if route 2, getting onto the top of the ridge exposed you to a prevailing head wind that route 1 was sheltered from - in this case the best route changes daily (Where I live, hourly).

Add to this, a good route is subjective - as already suggested by @bibz guys out for training rides have different definition of good to a commuter. As a MTBer, I have a different definition of good to a roadie, as I have much lower gearing I can climb steep hills roadies want to avoid, I careless about gravel roads, road works or poorly maintained roads than roadies. They tend to want to go faster (and further) then I do. I am a strong hill climber, and will take a hilly route over a flat route any day, there are many who hate hills and a much stronger than me on the flat. (TBH The vast majority who are stronger than me everywhere).

In the end technology cannot make you decisions for you, all it can do is make suggestions based on the data it has. Ask around locals for better advise, but in the end you have to actually ride the routes to work out which is best for you.


Spinning wheels have gyroscopic effects. Whipping the bike can be a way to reposition the bike so that when it comes out of the whip, it is in an orientation that wouldn't be possible going over the jump dead-straight. This effect is large in the case of motocross.
From a BMX perspective, it is very important to land on the backside of the landing ramp with the proper bend in your legs so that you can get the maximum "pump" off the landing. In some cases, especially in the case of a short landing ramp, it can be advantageous to do a slight whip and therefore land with the bike at an angle. This can get you more pump than landing perfectly straight. If you watch people negotiate a street spine, for example, you will see that it's downright awkward to go straight over without doing a whip.
Also, there's often a corner and a berm shortly after a jump, so a slight whip can set you up for what comes next, vs. landing perfectly straight then having to muscle the upcoming corner.


Thinking of quitting due to dangerous driving

A few suggestions:

Get some training. This will cover things like correct road positioning, which can make a big difference to how other road users interact with you.
Try quieter routes or cycling at different times of day when there is less traffic around. This cycle route planner will help with routes.
Try to find other people to cycle with. Cycling in a group is much less intimidating, but even one other person should make a difference.
I use a mirror which helps to keep track of what's behind me. I don't know if that would work for someone who is partially sighted, but it's probably worth trying.

It's also worth remembering that the majority of cycling accidents occur at junctions. It's relatively rare for a car to drive into the back of the cyclist.


Is this suspension fork user-serviceable?

To expand on Batman's comment, its a BSO because its from walmart and built down to a price from low grade components.

So, the forks will not be user-serviceable.  They won't be serviceable at all even by a shop, and the only way to adjust them is to change them completely.

How do we know its a BSO?  Because the specs say things like

"Tyres, 29 inch" without mention of width/height
"Front/Rear Derailler - Shimano"   <-- there's a massive range.
"Available at walmart.com"   That's a pretty damning indictment right there.

Its a fine bike for tootling about, but don't sink any money into upgrading it, other than the normal replacement-wear parts like chain, cassette, and brake pads.   If you're interested in riding more and better, save your money toward a better bike.

Answer because its too long for a comment.


Hybrid bike - would like to switch to a single front chainring, what are my options?

I suspect you'll be buying a whole new crankset. You may also need to upgrade the bottom bracket as there's not much choice of upgrades if you're starting with square taper parts.

My hybrid had a very similar drivetrain, including suntour cranks/chainrings which were riveted together.

You've already got a fairly wide ratio cassette for an 8 speed (I run the shimano equivalent) so you might struggle to get the range you need. Perhaps something like 11-34 (the widest range I've seen on 8 speed) with a 32-36 tooth chainring would do it. 8 speed casettes are cheap and consumable so swapping out to get the extra bottom end might help you. The alternative of going for a full 1x9 system would of course mean a new shifter and probably cable.

You should probably make up a spreadsheet of all the gear ratios you have/use and those you'd get in your 1x8 suggestion. And you can try running just in your middle chainring to see how much too hard 38 is.

The actual weight saving though, on a hybrid which probably has a heavy frame, is unlikely to be worth it, every assuming better/lighter cranks to go with the reduced chainring weight.


From your comments, it sounds like you're hoping to find a folding bike that folds up fast, but is also light enough to carry up stairs easily and small enough to fit through turnstiles and on the train with no problems.  All for well under $1000.

This may be impossible.  There are cheap folding bikes (under $500) and there are lightweight ones that fold up small and easy to walk around with. You might be able to find something that meets all those criteria for cheap that's used, but I don't think you can manage that with a new bike.

There is the A-Bike which is quite similar looking, but has a different folding mechanism.

There's plenty of competition for folding bikes out there:

Dahon Curve D3 $599, 16" wheels like Strida, 25 pounds, 10-15 second fold time
Dahon Eco 3 $379, 20" wheels, 26.7 pounds, 10-15 second fold time
http://www.brompton.co.uk/page.asp?p=3060 -- but all above your named price point.  There are some Pre-Owned Bromptons for just barely under $1000.
Bike Friday has a bunch of options, but all above the $1000 price point your comment mentions.  The super fast folder is this one: http://community.bikefriday.com/node/6301, $1300, 5 second fold time.

The big problem with any bicycle with such small wheels is that the ride is going to be rough and it'll be easier for the wheel to get caught on something instead of rolling over it; most compensate with wider wheels and tires which should help eliminate some of the roughness. Depending on the folding mechanism there's potentially structural (strength) problems with folding bicycles, though many compensate for those with additional material and instead make the bike heavier.

Personally, I'd see if there was someplace I could give some folding bicycles a test ride. I'd be likely to go with something with 20" wheels instead of 16", too.  16" does fold up smaller, but 20" is pretty close and should be a much nicer ride.


To start with, it's almost impossible to over grease a BB.  It could literally be packed in grease and would work just fine.  Too much may slow it down a tiny bit, but really, riding it you wouldn't notice.  Grease is simply too viscous to cause a lot of friction.  It's much more likely it's over tightened or has damaged bearings.  Also, with some cheap sealed bearings there could be a short "wear-in" period during which it may not spin freely, but will act looser over time.  Depending on the type of Bottom Bracket, you really could be having any number of smaller problems, but I would start with bearing tension(if it's a loose ball BB), or feel if the bearings themselves spin freely without the crank spindle installed(if it's a sealed system).  Or if the spindle spins smoothly(if it's a cartridge like a square taper or Splined), and go from there.


An 11-speed chain will mesh with and be driven by a ring designated 8-speed without issue, barring corner case exceptions. (There's nothing necessarily stopping manufacturers from cheating or being sloppy with keeping everything that's nominally 3/32 cross-compatible even with parts of disparate eras/types as in this example, but it's not an issue one sees too much of.)

If you did have issues shifting, it could be a combination of chain outer width, FD travel, side plate profiling being a poor match, and/or the chain's potential ability to get stuck between rings, which I have seen albeit not often.

One confusing thing about this topic is that chainring spacing is one of the least standardized things on bikes, it varies a little but not much between speed generations, the numbers are close to one another but not identical for how each manufacturer does things for different speed generations, and what actually determines the spacing is a combination of ring thickness, spider tab thickness, tooth offset, and presence or absence of spacers, so non-stock chainrings being in the mix can easily affect the actual spacing.

Usually combinations like what you propose can be made to work. Often they work well. But it's never a guarantee they work, or work without compromised shifting performance.

Part of what makes the issue murky is that in terms of professional shop practice, writing up a work order to create this kind of setup for a customer as a repair, build, or upgrade is pretty tenuous at best. In that context, setting yourself up to mess with something finicky that might not even work or be highly compromised is a great way of wasting time and creating a complicated situation. So bike shops and pro mechanics have good reason to take a different baseline attitude on the topic than a home mechanic.

Presuming we're talking about road, in the case of 11-speed, part of what you're up against here is that 11-speed front derailers often act like they barely have enough total travel even when everything is as the manufacturer intended, particularly Shimano ones. It would in no case be surprising to me if this were enough to keep what you're proposing from working. It may also be able to work fine, or you may be able to hack the cable anchor position for more travel.

Putting a narrower chain in a wider front derailer cage usually works extremely badly, especially multiple width generations apart. The usual problem (for a double) is that by the time you've gotten the low limit adjusted so the inner cage is close enough to the chain to get a good shift off the small ring, it wants to have way too much gap with the outer cage once you're on the big ring, and chain drop and poor downshifting result. Triples compound the problem. This can potentially be mitigated by manipulating (squeezing closed) the cage. When it's multiple width generations like this I personally just don't do it, even on my own bikes.  If you decide to it's going to be an experiment where you're completely out your FD if it doesn't work.

One thing you see parroted on the internet is a "a front derailer is a front derailer," as in they have a great degree of interchangeability, which is just not reality. Cage width, profile, actuation ratio, and in the case of triples minimum mid-to-high tooth difference spec are all critical.


Upgrading From Shimano 8 Sp Alivio To Shimano 9 Sp Altus

A 9 speed cassette will fit on an 8 speed hub. The extra gear is accommodated using thinner cogs and spacers.  You will also need a new shifter as its the shifter that provides the indexing for the gears. If you also increase the range of gears (increase the largest cassette cog), you may need a new rear deraileur.

Its possible to run 8 speed chain rings with a 9 speed chain, but you will get better shifting upgrading the chain-rings. In this case, replacing the entire crank set might be cheaper.

There would be little advantage replacing the deraileurs (especially the front) unless they are worn out.


Eventually, the material will thin out and holes will start to appear. Objectively, if people can see your junk, then it's time to retire the shorts (or, in colder climates, restrict them to winter-only duty under tights). The chamois will deteriorate over time as well, so if a pair of shorts isn't as comfortable as it once was, it's about time to throw it away.

As far as durability, I'd be very disappointed in any set of shorts that didn't last at least 5000 km.

Another note on care and feeding--make sure that the shorts never rub against anything abrasive (seat bag, velcro bits hanging off jacket, etc.) while you ride, as the material can wear through in an awful hurry.


Most probably the cable is too loose so that the derailleur is resting against the high (outer) limit when in the highest (smallest sprocket) gear, and there is slack that the shifter needs to take up before moving the derailleur to the next sprocket.

Shift the derailleur to the smallest sprocket and make sure the shifter is on the highest gear setting, turn the barrel adjusters in to their slackest setting, undo the cable pinch bolt and pull the cable with a pair of pliers to take out slack and do up the pinch bolt again.

If you have trouble getting slack out of the cable, a trick is to change gear to the second smallest sprocket, then without pedaling click the shifter back to the highest gear so the chain stays on the second smallest sprocket, then re-tension the cable as above.

There are plenty of how-to videos for bike adjustment and repair. Park Tool Company does some really good ones. Their rear derailleur one is here.


If it screws on then it is a freewheel not a cassette.  They are not the same.  There is a link in my comment.

Your spacer kit with one sprocket was probably for cassette / freehub.  It is not going to work.

I suspect you can find a freewheel single speed conversion.
You need a single speed freewheel - not a sprocket and a lockring.


After calling around to a few different Trek shops and buying several different hangers online, I took my bike to a shop near me that specializes in commuters and things like that.

The mechanic took one look at it, ran to the basement, and came back up with the correct hanger. It is a Wheels Mfg. #49.

I explained to him the trouble I had trying to track down the right hanger, and how it is listed incorrectly on the Wheels Mfg. site. He told me that this hanger in particular is common to a lot of Fujis, so his guess was that they were all made in the same factory, just under different brand names.

Anyway thanks for all the help and research, I'm glad I finally got this resolved.

TL;DR: Wheels Mfg. #49


What should I look for in a cycling jersey?

Fit is the most important thing I look for.  A cycling top should fit snugly, without being skin-tight.  Having less extra fabric will mean less air resistance, which makes a surprising difference at higher speeds.  Also, too much excess fabric will flap in the wind, which can be annoying too.

Make sure that the length in back is long enough to cover your lower back when you're riding in an aggressive position.  If a long-sleeve, the sleeves need to be long enough to cover your wrists with your arms extended out front.  (some normal clothing fails these two checks)

One last caveat about jersey style:  make sure the zipper opens far enough for you to be able to take it off after a long sweaty ride.  I have one with a short zipper and it's a real struggle.

For materials, there's lots of nice synthetics to choose from that are lightweight, wick away moisture and are very comfortable in hot weather.  But for cool or wet conditions, nothing beats wool.


What is the difference between 1/2'' x 1/8'' and 1/8'' chain size for single speed?

That 1/2" is a pitch, ie. distance between 2 pins, which is standard on all bikes, expect, maybe, some super vintage ones. Just forget about it and pay attention to width (1/8 or 3/32").


What is the equivalent for Shimano Roller Brake grease?

Just as a confirmation on the comments above, I found a post on a separate forum definitely recommending to use the specific manufacturer grease, with a couple of the following points (Cited here for possible link decay):
For the grease itself-

Since my original post I have found some good information about lubricating the Shimano roller brakes.

Definitely use the roller brake grease available from Shimano (although it is fairly expensive), this is a demanding application due to the heat and forces generated within the brake and the lubricant is very high quality - it is a molybdenum disulphide based grease, and to me looked denser than what one usually finds say in automotive moly greases. Also it is lower viscosity so the brake will not drag and the grease can get into the braking surfaces more readily.

For application (And which indicates the poster spoke to someone at Shimano):

Very important to follow the instructions that come with the grease - main point is to insert the grease tube nozzle at least 12mm into the hole otherwise the grease will not reach the actual braking surface. If you look carefully you can see the cooling disc move a little when the nozzle is in far enough as it will push against it; come back just slightly from this position so the grease flows easily.

Shimano said you cannot really over do the grease as the excess will simply squeeze out and collect under the side cover. I was fortunate enough to be able to get an old brake and dismantle it - it looked to me like a rounded teaspoon or so of grease (say 10+mL) would be fine and my brake went well with this. Remember to rotate the wheel a bit while putting in the grease so it distributes evenly around inside the brake. Note that Shimano forbid dismantling of these brakes, and having done so with the old one I would say there is very little reason to anyway, and parts cannot be bought individually for repairs - still it was very interesting to see how it actually worked. The rollers (6) are not actually the brake, but push out three metal crescents that bind against the braking "drum" that is bonded to the centre of the cooling disc.

There are a couple of other points in the link, mostly just some tips about making application a bit easier. I could find absolutely nothing on a recommended substitute, which leads me to believe that the comments are correct, it's not worth it to try and find a substitute.


What is this -- seems to be bike-related?

Looks like an adjustable quill stem.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TAQ-33-ADJUSTABLE-ALUMINUM-STEM-ST3/dp/B001DGGVQ2

oh, and not worth driving that far to get one.


Can you identify this Cateye HR Sensor E product model?

It is not ANT+ - only the HR-11 is listed on "thisisant.com" (and its too old to be ANT+)

I suspect it will analogue - most likely would be Polar compatible but cannot be certain. There are Cateye digital monitors, and also ANT+ monitors, the digital ones have "Digital" written on them, which is why I suspect analogue

Best option (IMHO) would be to turf it and go ANT+... The other go down to a local gym, or find a someone with Polar compatible gear and see if their gear picks it up (put in a new battery). But what will you do if you can find this out - buy a new watch based on obsolete technology?


The bad news

$200 won't get a new fork much better than the one you have now.

The good news

The second-hand market is full of a couple of year old forks that were originally twice that.

Do your research

Forks may look frighteningly full of tech, but they are designed to be serviced so the delicate parts are inside cartridges that can safely be removed.  So if you see a fork you like on eBay for example, go to the manufacturers website and look at the servicing instructions - it will make your second-hand fork feel new again and only for the cost of new seals and some fork fluid (~$30).

Play it safe

Stick to the 'big 3' manufacturers: Marzocchi, RockShox, and Fox.
Do not go beyond 4 years old.
Remember to ask the seller what length their steerer tube is, it's normally cut down to fit the bike - but if their headtube is significantly smaller than yours you may have not enough material for your stem to bite onto.
Ask the seller if there are any scratches/dents on the stanchions (the smooth poles the seals grip onto), if there are - DO NOT BUY!
Ask the seller if the forks creak, it generally means the bushes need replacing.  Although this isn't too difficult, it will add ~$30 onto the servicing cost.
Finally, read reviews on your chosen fork MTBR is a good place.  And once you have any specific questions, come back here and we can help.


Presumably you have purchased an eBike kit with a in-wheel motor, so you have a wheel but you don't know what size the rim is. What did the kit specifications say about the wheel? Is there a marking on the rim?
An approximately 20mm wide rim is wide enough for mountain bike tires up to 60mm / 2.25 inches in width.
The bicycle wheel diameters in common use are:

ISO/ETRTO 622 - 622mm rim, known as '700c' on road bike, '29 inch' on MTBs
ISO/ETRTO 584 - 584mm rim, known as '650b' on road bike, '27.5 inch' on MTBs
ISO/ETRTO 559 - 559mm rim, known as '26 inch' on MTBs

The ISO/ETRTO number is the diameter of where a cincher tire mounts on the rim. The MTB sizes refer to the nominal diameter of the whole wheel with a tire installed, not the rim diameter. You can  measure you wheel rim to figure out what you have. 26 inches is 660mm so I think that measurement is an error.
Bear in mind that bicycle frames are designed for a specific wheel rim diameter. You can't put a 622 wheel in a frame designed for a 559 wheel. You also need to pay attention to the hub width, wheel attachment (nuts, quick release etc) and rim vs disc brake when considering frame compatibility.


Pinch flats: hardtail vs full suspension. Differences?

Honestly this has more to do with how you let your bike "float" underneath you over obstructions than it does with rear suspension or the lack thereof. Since you can potentially go faster on a full suspension over rough terrain than you can on a hardtail I would say you're just as likely to get pinch flats. You just have to unweight the back of the bike and stay loose as you cross rocks/roots/whatever. That's a crucial key not only in reducing pinch flats, but in going faster over technical terrain as well.

Short answer, just as likely on either platform depending on your riding style.


The San Francisco Bicycle Coalition has a SF Bike Map & Walking Guide that they'll give you if you join, or you can buy it at just about any bike shop in SF or online.  (and the online version at that link isn't bad).  It's got bicycle-friendly routes color-coded.  They also have various organized rides and other events.

SF Bike Coalition and 511.org worked together to make BikeMapper, a bicycle-specific tool for finding routes around SF.  (also available on SF Bike's site but set up a little differently.)

bicycling.511.org is generally a good resource. http://bicycling.511.org/maps.htm in particular.

Google Maps can give you bicycling directions anywhere, but is probably extra good in SF.

There's a bunch of different cycling clubs in or near SF, but I think many of their organized rides go outside of SF.  (SF is only 7 miles across).  If you just want to ride around on your own, you can probably find out the routes for some of these rides.

http://www.goldengatecyclists.org/ (based in SF)
http://www.dssf.org/ (LGBT and friends)
http://www.westernwheelers.org/main/ (based south of SF)
http://www.actc.org/
http://www.valleyspokesmen.org/
http://www.velogirls.com/ (women)


What are the advantages of owning a Unicycle?

Presumably a 50% reduction in punctures?


Benefits and drawbacks of Dropper posts?

There are generally two types of dropper seatposts, mechanical (e.g. GravityDropper) and hydraulic (e.g. RockShox Reverb). Mechanical dropper seatposts use a spring to move the seatpost and a bolt to keep it in place. This is a very simple design and there are few things that can break or jam, and the weight is also kept very reasonable since there are few parts needed to make it work. The drawbacks are that you only have a fixed number of height settings, i.e. fully extended, halfway extended, and fully lowered. This is because the seatpost is being held in place by a pin that goes through a hole in the seatpost.

A hydraulic seatpost on the other hand uses hydraulics to move the seatpost and thus allows you to place the seatpost at any height you like. The drawbacks are that they are more complicated, usually weigh more, costs a lot more and requires more maintenance. The advantages are the ability to lock the post at any height you like.

Mechanical dropper posts:

 + Mechanically simple and easy to maintain
 + Low weight
 + Cheap
 - Only a fixed number of positions for height adjustment

Hydraulic dropper posts:

+ Freely adjustable to any height
- Complicated
- Requires more maintenance
- Expensive

Static QR seat posts:

+ Requires no maintenance
+ Cheap
+ Low weight
+ Can be adjusted to any height
- Rider must dismount to lower and raise seat


Are there substitutes for chain lubricant?

One option would be to use a cheap chain during winter and discard it in spring.

Another would be to not have the chain be salted in the first place, try a hermetic chain guard system.

If your bike doesnt have a dereailleur, you could try a chainrunner, but I have my doubts it protects against water getting into the lining. http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:Chainrunner.JPG&filetimestamp=20100223153843

The Teflon-based lubricants are pretty good in summer, but dont help in winter.

Cooking oil is not suited for mechanical parts. (It chemically changes over time, contains acidity, etc)


Vintage 1979 Peugeot roadbike rear derailleur change

If you have friction shifters, they don't really care what kind of rear derailleur you put on them -- just that they can pull enough cable to move the rear derailleur from the highest gear to the lowest gear.

If you're not concerned with having a matching vintage set, I'd suggest pop  picking up something like a Shimano Altus or Acera rear derailleur.

But you may want to have the bike checked out by a bike shop -- when a rear derailleur goes, it may bend the mount on the frame (easily straightened with a tool bike shops have) and if it hits the spokes of the rear wheel, it may de-tension or damage some of them (this can be a bit more annoying).


Why are there a large number of businesses that do not allow bicycles in the drive through?

Probably one of two camps:
1) They just don't think it's proper to ride a bike through a drive through, it's for cars they say.
2) They don't know if it's going to expose them liability if a cyclist is hurt or killed by a car pulling in to or out of the drive through.


Its likely disassembles in one of two ways:

two cone wrenches (one on each side of the hub) to remove the jam nuts. This is the likely option. From your photo it looks like there is a flat spot on the jam nut.
two hex wrenches (one on each side of the hub) that fit into the axle end.

Two videos demonstrating these techniques:

http://aol.it/15nYDub
http://aol.it/Ioc7T2


Trek FX 7.7 rear tire is rubbing the frame

Three steps:
is it rubbing the entire rotation? If not true your wheel.
Is it rubbing all the way round but just on one side, fix the dish of your wheel.
If it is neither of the above, you need a smaller tyre.

All tyres will expand to a point as you increase the pressure. They will expand less and less as the pressure increases up until the point that they either explode or you destroy the rim.

There is also the question about why you are using more pressure?. Pressures much over 100psi are only faster as the road gets much smoother (dependant on weight of rider and tyre width), that's why they still use pressures towards 200psi on the track, but road pressures have been declining for years.  It takes less energy for a tyre to deform than it does to push the entire bicycle up as it encounters a bump in the road.


What exactly is Shimano's Shadow Plus technology for rear derailleurs?

TL;DNR
A Shimano 'Shadow Plus' or SRAM Type 2 dérailleur (aka clutch dérailleur)  means you can change the chain tension by flicking a lever.

For completeness - back in the late 2000's, Shimano introduced the 'Shadow' dérailleur (refer OP's link) which brings the deraileur in behind the cassette, providing it more protection from knocks and damage.  A short time (couple of years?) later they added the 'clutch' which in reality is nothing to do with Shadow, but Shadow was still new, and they still sold non-shadow dérailleurs in the lower spec ranges, so the needed to keep Shadow in the name of this new model. Even though/because all clutch dérailleurs were also Shadow, it made a lot of sense for marketing to call them 'Shadow Plus' rather than call them 'Plus'

Unfortunately because of the close time frame between introduction, Some people mistakenly believe 'Shadow' means it has a clutch, as they never saw a 'Shadow' without the clutch.

So what is Plus - As alluded to by @Batman's comment - The Plus means a clutch.  But what is a clutch

  Dictionary: noun: clutch; plural noun: clutches

1.
a tight grasp.
"she made a clutch at his body"
    a person's power or control, especially when regarded as inescapable.
    plural noun: someone's clutches
    "Tom had fallen into Amanda's clutches"
2.
a mechanism for connecting and disconnecting an engine and the transmission system in a vehicle, or the working parts of any machine.
"she let the clutch in and the car surged forward"
    the pedal operating the clutch in a vehicle.
3.
a group of eggs fertilized at the same time, laid in a single session and (in birds) incubated together.
4.
a slim, flat handbag

But the Shimano marketing term is none of the above. SRAM used a more generic term "Type 2"

Going back even further than that (early/mid 1990's if memory serves me right, but might have been the 80's) Shimano came up with a 'new dérailleur' with a lighter spring and lowered chain tension. This was sold as having all sorts of advantages over the heavier springs - easy wheel changes, better drive train efficiency, probably making you more attractive to opposite sex was somewhere in there (it was the 1990's).  When it became apparent that MTB's were suffering because the spring was too light, its was going to be difficult to sell a "heavy spring" without Shimano getting egg on its face (as riders would become less attractive to the opposite sex). They developed the 'clutch' - a little lever that lets you have all the advantages of a light spring (easy wheel removal is the main claim to fame) and all the advantages of a heavy spring (less chain slap, better chain retention over rough ground etc).


What is this bike model and year? Cannondale CAAD?

Cannondale Quick 7: https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=7adbe241-cc33-4ea5-b62f-9f32c8476f31

Not sure of the year; you can look up previous years and see if the color scheme is different, or if the components match what was spec'd on that year (derailleur, shifters, number of gears, etc.).

It's a fairly entry level hybrid from a major company, so bikes like these don't go huge overhauls very often -- it doesn't look much different than the 2018 visually aside from the black crankset in the figure below.

Image from Cannondale.com


The solution to fix this was in the Pinkbike article suggested by @Batman in the comments to the question.

If you buy a radial tyre patch designed for a car then chances are it'll be plenty big enough to patch a hole in a bike tyre. I just went for some cheap ones on eBay. Add the vulcanising glue (plenty of it) to the inside of the tyre and stick the patch on. To be extra safe I added some glue around the edges of the patch after it was in place too.

As you can see in the photos below, there is almost no noticeable bulge on the tyre.

I've ridden the bike a couple of times since reinstalling the tyre and it has been flawless, no problems with the tyre and you certainly can't feel the patch when you're riding.

I realise there is no single solution that will work for everyone who finds themselves with a cut on the sidewall of their tubeless tyre but this solution worked very well for me.


Is there any significant gain of the bell super 3r mips over the 2r mips?

I would imagine the 3R is just more refined. We don't do product recommendations so to speak but comparing the two on the Bell website should suffice in helping you determine if it is worth the extra money for what you will be using it for.

The website lists the major difference as:

  For the new Super 3R, we’ve added the new Float Fit system and dramatically improved the fit and comfort by revising the shape both inside and out

In addition i would compare the product specs and see which is better for you, your wallet and your intended application.

2R -

Breakaway Screws
Fusion In-Mold Polycarbonate Shell
Goggleguide™ Adjustable Visor System
Integrated Breakaway Camera Mount
MIPS-Equipped
Overbrow Ventilation™
TAG™ Fit System
Wraparound Protection™
X-Static® Padding

WEIGHT: 694 Grams
VENTS: 23 helmet, 4 brow ports, 6 chin-bar

3R -

Breakaway Screws
Float Fit™
Fusion In-Mold Polycarbonate Shell
Goggleguide™ Adjustable Visor System
Integrated Breakaway Camera Mount
MIPS-Equipped
Overbrow Ventilation™
Wraparound Protection™
X-Static® Padding

WEIGHT: 784.1 Grams
VENTS: 23 helmet, 4 brow ports, 6 chin-bar vents

Seems to me the major difference is the 3R uses an improved fit system while also weighing nearly 100 grams more. Other than this my guess is the price difference is simply because the 3R is the newer aka latest and greatest.

Also i would recommend trying them both on if at all possible, when it comes to full face helmets a large of one brand is totally different then the large of another and the fit and comfort can very greatly.

My personal opinion would be to go with one with permanently attached chin bar, but that's just me. If i'm depending on something to guard my mouth, i would rather it not easily detach and reattach. I ride the tamer trails around me with it as well now that i am used to it, it really doesn't bother me. I do get some odd looks every now and then though.

Hope this helps


There are two main standards:  Schrader and Presta.  Schrader is the standard auto tire valve, while Presta is thinner and has a little knurled knob on top.  Schader is relatively straight-forward to use while Presta requires a little finesse.

Most newer "floor pump" valves are "agnostic" and will fit either style without conversion, but some require flipping a gasket over inside the chuck or some such.

Floor pumps generally have a flip-lever valve where you press the valve on, then flip the lever up to lock the valve on.  Sometimes, if the tire is flat, you may need to press your thumb into the tire on the back side of the valve to keep the valve from sliding into the rim as you push the chuck on -- if you don't then the chuck doesn't get on far enough.  Plus on some valves you may need to adjust the chuck by tightening a knurled fitting on the chuck, to compensate for gasket wear, etc.  And of course there are cheap pumps that won't work regardless.

Presta can be a little tricky.  You need to unscrew the knurled knob ALL THE WAY, then press the chuck on.  And I like to tap the unscrewed knob once to free the internal seal from its seat -- sometimes they stick, making it hard to get air in.  When you're finished filling a Presta, just tighten the knob barely finger tight, so as to not unnecessarily deform the seal.


Is this an unsuitable cassette lockring tool?

I think thats a Shimano freewheel, rather than a cassette.

A Shimano freewheel needs a tool like a Park Tool FR-1 (or FR-1.2 or FR-1.3), which has 12 splines and a diameter of around 23 mm rather than the Shimano cassette tool (Park Tool FR-5 or its variants), which also has 12 splines but a diameter of around 23.4mm.

See this link from Park Tool on how to remove it.


It is a freewheel. You will need the appropriate freewheel tool. The tool typically won't fit without removing the axle. You may also need the correct cone wrenches. This makes it a good time to service the wheels bearings as well. You may want to consult your LBS and compare the cost of having it done versus purchasing the tools you may only use once.


Are there any rear derailleurs compatible with Shimano Tourney RD TX 80

You just need a 7 Speed derailleur? Shimano RD-TX35 7spd should work it is the current derailleur used on the bike as it is specd. HEREBut I would also go to your LBS and have them see, they might have a better ability to locate the same one you were using.


I've managed that before more often than I'd like to admit.

Normally you can wiggle the chain free, though it does take some force and may damage paint. Pull some slack in the chain by moving the derailleur forwards, or it will pull back on the chain you are trying to free up.

You've tried removing the middle and outer chainrings, but I think not the little chainring which is the one pinching the chain against the frame. This has four bolts of its own holding it on, accessible on the inboard side of the small ring. You can remove these one at a time while the crank is still fitted. It should give enough play to release the chain. I would try this first but if you can't rotate the crank to access enough of the bolts then it might not work.

So that gives option 2, removing the crank. To remove the whole crank needs a tool called a cotterless crank puller, cranks won't come off on their own just by taking the bolt out. Very searchable online for instructions. With the right tool available you'd probably just do this first anyway.

Remember to do all the bolts up tightly again. It's a good opportunity to clean them and add a little grease to all the threads.

If the chain likes to fall off the inner chain ring it needs looking at. maybe a tooth is bent, or the chainring is worn, or the limit screw on the derailleur is not set properly.


Mechanical disc brake calipers: Removing pads from top side vs bottom side

I would say if it’s relatively simple to take your wheels out then it’s trivial which you go for, ie make decisions on other factors. You won’t be swapping pads out all that often (or if you know you will do, then you might already know which you want).

If however, it isn’t so easy to get the wheels out, because of a rack or dynamo or hub gear, or hub-drive electric bike, (belt-drive etc etc) then you might well prefer to insert the pads from the top. (Not that I’ve fact-checked whether those model(s) do indeed load from the top.) if you ride in all conditions, commuting for example and will wear pads down quickly then that might be a factor but the decider for me would be how easy it is or isn’t, to get the wheels out of the way.


Steel frames are strong and durable, but can rust; aluminum would be a better option. (Carbon fiber or titanium won't rust, but these are expensive enough not to want a bike left outside for security's sake.)
An internal hub is sealed and will eliminate most drivetrain problems, especially if you don't use a front derailer. In addition, cleaning an internal-hub-only drivetrain is faster than on a traditional dual-derailer setup. Downsides: A bit more expensive, and removing the rear wheel to change a flat is a little more complex.
A chain guard isn't a bad idea, but a lot of the gunk that gets caught in the drivetrain is kicked up by the tires. Full fenders will go a long way towards keeping your drivetrain (and you) clean.
As icc97 has recommended, a stainless steel chain might be helpful, but replacing a chain is very inexpensive if you do it regularly.
Anything made of leather will not wear well (mostly saddles, grips, and bags) so you would do best to avoid it on an outdoors-dedicated steed.
Attachment hardware, such as screws holding stuff like racks, fenders, shifters, brake levers and so on will rust. It's a good idea to keep an eye on this, cleaning or replacing as needed. Screw threads will sometimes also rust, so keep an eye on that. Also, frequent cleaning in general will help enormously.

Much of the above can get expensive. If you don't ride far or fast, there's the opton of finding a cheap, used bike and replacing it at the end of the season; used bikes can be found fairly easily if you're not picky.


Forget Campagnolo if you are on a budget. SRAM and Shimano both still make cranks/bottom brackets that are compatible with threaded bottom bracket shells, as do other component manufacturers like FSA.

Presumably you have a square taper bottom bracket axle. You can get a cranks that fit that, but you can run into chainline problems because different cranks require a different axle length. Replacing both the crank and bracket at the same time often makes more sense.

I'd recommend looking at the whole drivetrain an asking yourself if you want to upgrade it as a whole, to get more gear ratios perhaps. That may require replacing many components at once. Just swapping a single component such as the crank may not bring any benefit.


How to clean a bike after muddy/sandy cyclocross race (or mountain bike ride)

You should definitely be careful with it, but at many races we employ the use of a pressure washer to do broad stroke cleaning like getting mud, grass, etc off the bike and tires. You need to be careful and use it from a little distance and obviously not get up close on the BB, hubs, etc. but it does a good job of initially cleaning or cleaning between races.

After the race you should do more appropriate maintenance on the bike with degreaser and proper lubes.


Chainrings designed for multispeed systems have special pins and ramps in them, to assist shifting. Key word being assist. If you have rings for a certain config, it might not have those features in the right spots.
If you don't have them, shifting won't be as good as it would be otherwise. That doesn't necessarily mean it'll be complete garbage either, people happily rode bikes with "plain" chainrings for decades, and continue to do so today. But it won't be as crisp, or you won't shift as well under power, but you'll almost surely shift well enough.


Reference Request: Best practices for urban commuting

Oldie but goodie: Effective Cycling by John Forester.


What tools do I need to disassemble and re-assemble an 80's road bicycle

It depends to what level you want to disassemble. For general cleaning your list is a good start. As you dig deeper though you'll also need:

To service/adjust drivetrain

Various spanners and screwdrivers to adjust cables
Wire cutters if replacing cables

To service wheels/hubs

15mm spanner to remove wheels (unless you have quick release hubs)
Chain whip and a cassette tool to match your cassette to remove rear cassette
Cone spanners to remove and replace the hub cones
Spoke wrench (ensure you get a good one that fits your spoke nipples exactly, as it's very easy to damage the nipple)

To service cranks/pedals/bottom bracket

Pedal spanner to remove the pedals
Depending on the cranks you may need a crank puller
To remove the bottom bracket you may need a special spanner/tool

To service forks/stem/head tube

If it's a threaded fork, varying sized spanners to undo the nuts on top of the fork
If it's threadless, your hex spanners will be okay
Bearing cups - from the head tube there are specific tools to remove and then press them back on

As @Chef Flambe mentions it can be more economical to buy a kit containing many of these tools. This will give you a head start and you can buy the specific tools you need for your bike, as well as upgrade to better quality for the tools you use frequently.


Bottom bracket removal, what is this part?

It's a bottom bracket cup. There are specialty tools you can use to remove it such as the HCW-11 on this page, or if it isn't rusted in, you can probably accomplish the same with an adjustable crescent wrench.  Under there are some ball bearings, so make sure you don't lose any when you open it up.  The bearings should be in a cage, which would stop you from losing them, but with an older and worn bike such as the one shown in the picture, the bearing cage may be broken.


There are other brands of leather saddle wax I would consider, but I would be careful about trying random leather conditioner products. If you make the leather too soft you can permanently wreck the saddle.

Hammock type saddles work by being stiff, not soft. The stiff saddle doesn’t sag much and therefore supports your weight across a wider area. The break-in period is critical as this where you add micro-tears to the leather to reduce any pressure hot spots (e.g., sit bones). Over time this stretching in high pressure hotspots evens out the pressure over the wide contact area, providing the custom fit these saddles are known for.

This works because:

The leather is stiff and can support weight without sagging much; and
The leather can still stretch in places with high pressure.

This indicates a fine balance between stiffness with some ability to stretch. Now soften the leather too much.  It will sag too much under your weight concentrating pressure in a central hot spot.  You can try and add tension to the saddle to the adjuster (which stretches the saddle), but there is only a limited range of adjustments so you may not be able to add sufficient tension, plus you will have effectively shortened the saddle life (i.e., less future ability to add tension).

Now realize most leather conditioners are designed to make leather soft, saddle waxes are designed to maintain stiffness and leather life by providing some water resistance plus a vey small amount of conditioners to offset the leather drying out.  The optimal blend depends on the leather grade used, which the saddle manufacturers should know.

Given that it is fairly easy to wreck a leather saddle if you make the leather too soft (e.g., riding for long periods if it’s too wet), this isn’t something worth playing with unless you are will to write-off the saddle or shorten the service life.


Why are trigger shifters so widely used, instead of the twisting grip shifters(revoshift)?

In the context of a high-end MTB designed to go quickly over difficult terrain, trigger shifters have the following advantages:

They can be operated using only the thumb, without changing the grip, so the index finger is always ready to brake.
Getting mud on the gloves does not impair operation.

Modern grip shifters do exist, Sram makes a wide range of those, and in my experience, the cheapest option (the GX model) is very reliable and performs very well. For completeness sake, grip shifters have the following advantages:

Ability to shift through the entire cassette in one motion (assuming a single chainring setup, typical for the context), useful before a sudden steep hill.
Absence of a protruding element to be hit by the knee in case the leg unclips unexpectedly.


If a manufacturer found they had a quality problem with a batch of products (e.g. bikes but equally cameras, phones...) the serial numbers would allow identification of the substandard units.

If you've recorded the serial number of your bike and a bike thief is caught with bikes in their possession the serial number should help you get it back. This has happened a few times recently around here.


How fast can you go over speed breakers?

With a decent bike such as the one you linked to, it's not so much a question whether the bike can handle it, but it depends on how much you can handle.

How fast you can go over a bump depends a lot on your riding technique: if you are able to shift your weight in the right way you can significantly increase the speed to go over the bump. If you are able to do a bunny hop and jump over the bump, there's basically no upper speed limit. If you are worrying about the derailleur, there will be some noise from the chain clonking against the chain stay. However, a derailleur is built to handle such loads without any problems.

So yes, I guess you are overthinking this one.


Will a SLX fit on a Shimano deore 2x10 rear triangle?

With 11 speed cassettes the compatibility issue is not the width of the dropouts or rear hub, it's will the cassette fit on the freehub body. Some 11 speed systems require a slightly longer freehub body to fit onto.

Shimano MTB 11 speed cassettes will fit onto the same freehub body as a 10 speed (which is actually the Shimano 'Hyperglide' freehub standard that has been in use for decades). It manages this by having closer sprocket spacing and overhanging the back of the freehub body somewhat. The overhang is possible because the large low gear sprockets required on 11 speed systems can clear the spokes.