I think you need to separate operator error from optimal mechanical functioning.

Mechanical advantage

By your own anecdotal evidence you have demonstrated how powerful front brakes can be.  In short we have front brakes because they are the most powerful brake. When a bike (or any vehicle) decelerates weight is shifted to the front wheel.  Because bicycle tires work through static friction, and static friction is proportional to the force applied, under braking conditions the front wheel will have the most traction (assuming no additional forces, such as turning are applied).  By contrast the harder you brake the less force is applied to the rear wheel and the static friction of the rear tire decreases. As a result the harder you brake, the less traction the rear wheel has, which reduces maximal stopping force (a bit of a negative feedback loop going on here).

The problem as you identify is not with the physics behind the inclusion of the front brake but operator error.

Correct Operation

As your anecdotal stories indicate that many bicycle operators are unfamiliar proper body position during emergency braking. If you learn to move your weight back (ideally behind your saddle) during strong braking then going over the handle bars is nearly impossible (except under very steep hills).  On the flat, with correct body position, it is possible to break traction with the front wheel before going over the handle bars.

The issue then becomes one of education.  In essence you are asking whether front brakes should be removed because sufficient education on how to operate a bicycle is lacking for many.  That is a political question and is unclear if a "right" answer exists.

Physics fun

Event though a wheel is rolling traction is governed by the laws of static friction. When part of the tire touches the ground, it is not sliding across the ground (usually). From a physics perspective this can be considered a body a "rest" – as strange as that sounds.

The resistive force observed in a body at rest  is defined as

Fs ≤ μ * Fn

Where Fs is the resistive force, μ is the coefficient of friction and Fn is the normal force.  The normal force is the force applied perpendicularly to the measured resistive force, on an incline the normal force is less than on a flat surface.  The resistive force (Fs) can range from zero to a maximum of μ * Fn.

The resistive force is what does the braking or turning.  If braking or cornering exceeds the resistive force your tire slides. The coefficient of friction is related to factors such as tire compound, tire pressure and road surface.  The act of braking will not change it (unless you exceed the resistive force).

Under braking  Fn increases for the front wheel and decreases for the rear wheel due to the weight shift. As such the maximal braking force that can be applied increase for front wheel and decreases for the rear wheel the harder you brake.

As long as you are not throwing other variables in, such as rider weight distribution (i.e., too much weight up front), changing road conditions, and exceeding a tires maximal resistive force (doing so no the front will make you crash).  The front wheel is the best place to focus braking forces.


Measuring stem clamp / handlebar diameter

Measure the handlebar itself, while unmounted from the bike, at the center most point of the bar. Use a digital or vernier scale caliper.

The bar from the 2009 Bianchi Cortina is a 25.4mm MTB handlebar, with about 2 inches of rise. I expect yours will be as well. Do not use a 26mm bar, although you can likely mount it on the stem, because the installation will damage it, and it will fail, probably at some future point when you are riding it.

If you want a drop bar, you will need a new stem as well as handlebar. 25.4mm road drop bars are rare or non existent, since 25.4mm was the mountain bike standard.

I hope that helps.


This is a rear case that I would use WD40 or even engine degreaser on a bike part. Remove the pads, drown the brake in one of these and work it till its free. Might be worth removing from bike and soaking in a bath.

I would no dismatle it unless the above did not work.

Once the part is moving freely it will have no lube on it. Clean it with hot soapy water, dry it out and use a dry lube rather than a wet lube -  it won't attract the dirt. Alternately use a wet lube but regularly re lube it.


Sounds to me like you've got Campagnolo-sized shifter ends.  The difference is subtle but definite.
Left is Shimano, Right is Campagnolo.
Not sure how you're measuring, using a ruler might explain the difference. The common-quoted diameters are
Shimano shifter end barrel diameter: 0.173" (4.39 mm)
Campag shifter end barrel diameter:  0.159" (4.04 mm)

Generally speaking, campagnolo stuff is more expensive because it is less common, because it is more expensive (loop!)  These shouldn't cost more than a couple of dollars each.


What should I look for when buying a smartphone handlebar mount?

I have owned 2 different smartphone mounts (Blackberry, iPhone). Before getting a mount, determine if you have a straight section of your handlebar that's at least an inch long, preferably 1.3 inches or more. Mounts with rigid plastic secured by screws will require that.

Key attributes:

Favor rigid molded plastic mounts secured by screws over the kinds secured by twist ties, as screws are more likely to keep the mount from slipping than twist ties.
Some mounts are made for a specific phone model, some made for a
family of phone models, and some are universal. My personal
experience has been that the universal or family types require
fiddling to get working right, such as inserting extra padding in
order to better secure the phone. Specific phone
model types typically require less fuss to hold the phone securely in place.
Many models are adjustable thanks to a ball and socket. This is a
good feature so that you can tilt the phone to face exactly the
direction you want.
Consider whether you want a two part model that has a handle bar mount portion and a
specific phone portion. This allows you to have mounts on multiple
bikes so you can switch the phone specific version between bikes.
That can allow you to use old mounts when you switch phones and/or
save money from not having to buy full two part kits. However, if you ride on very bumpy roads or off road, you need to be sure that the two parts lock together, as the smartphone portion may detach and fall when subjected to severe vibration (there are specific complaints about this with Arkon's two piece system).
Consider whether you'll be using your smartphone in rainy or very wet
conditions. If so, you'll need to be certain it's waterproof, yet
with a thin enough covering film so that the touchscreen still works.


Can I replace 11 speed 11-40t with a 11-42t or 11-46t staying with Shimano XT family?

Depends on what derailleur and front rings you have.

The current Deore XT M8000 GS (which we can probably assume you have) specs say:

Max 11-42T cassette for a 2x11 setup
Max 11-46T cassette for a 1x11 setup

Additionally for a 2x11 setup there is a max 10 teeth difference between the front rings.


The derailleur is there to act as chain tensioner. In a frame intended for derailleur the rear wheel can't be moved to tighten the chain, so a separate spring-loaded chain tensioner is needed. The cheapest and ugliest way is to just use whatever derailleur was on the bike before conversion.


What is considered the maximum safe downhill speed on a road bike?

I think it depends both on the rider (as @moz pointed out) and on the bike. And of course, you should have a clean road also.

If you have a high end road bike in good shape, you can get to very high speeds if you've got the skills and the clear road ahead.

In Tour de France downhill sections, they can go at speeds as high as 65 mph / 110 Km/h, even losing the motorbike reporters.

As a counter-example, I had to brake at less than 30 mph / 45 Km/h on an old road bike, as the wheels were shaking due to bad balancing/tired axles/etc...

On a side note, I think going over the cars legal limit is a very bad idea on open roads (this refers to the Tour de France-class of speeds).


Replacement compatability for Shimano Mountain LX Chainring and or Crankset

You cannot replace Biopace unless you find some antiques. Biopace ended 20 years ago.

Other chainrings are all compatible if the BCD is correct. The only issue is the ramps or pins that are meant to improve shifting performance. The manufacturer will always tell you to match everything up exactly but that is their sales pitch. Realistically having something ramped on the middle ring is a good idea and maybe on the big ring too. Ramps on a granny (smallest) ring don't make any difference. If you are really worried about compatibility get something similar (XT, STX, Deore...) with ramps that is from Shimano and you will be just fine.

Any square taper crankset which allows clearance for the frame and similar chainline will work fine. Actually buying a complete crankset with all the rings included is a lot cheaper than buying individual rings. The extreme example is a low end shimano riveted crankset for less than $40 vs the typical budget of $1/tooth for chainrings.


I've got about 20,000 miles experience commuting in Alaska snow.  There are really 3 kinds of snow to deal with:  deep & fluffy, hard & icy, and slush.

I have two bikes, a Pugsley with Large Marge tires for deep snow, and a Kona 29er for everything else.

The trick to the Pugs is deflating the tires so they track right.  10psi in front is maybe too much, add a little more for the back. That makes a slow commute.  When the snow gets over 2-3" of thick stuff the Pugs comes out.

Otherwise it's the Kona with Nokian Gazza Extreme studs. Pump them up hard and they cut through to the hard surface under the goo.  Ice is no biggie, it's like riding on gravel.  The springtime deep slush will shoot out through the open deep tread pattern and you can pretty much just ride straight through it without tire deflection.  I recommend studs on your boots for ice riding too, when you put your foot down you'll need the traction at intersections.

Flat studded pedals, disc brakes, GOOD bright flashers, and you're set.  Saran wrap taped over your helmet vents keeps your head a little warmer too.

Try a camping headlight under your helmet.  Look at drivers at intersections and they see your beam, and see you.

Enjoy!


I suspect the pads are not correctly toed in. This problem will not correct itself over time.

If the pads are parallel to the rim then when you brake the leading edge of the pad bunches up a little and bounces off the rim. Fast. So you get squealing.

To avoid this you should adjust the pads so that the trailing edge is very slightly closer to the rim. Most packaged brake pads have this explained on the package, and conveniently the thickness of a bit of cardboard is a good distance to have the leading edge out from the rim. So the instructions usually say "the the package as a pad".

The easy way is to put something under the leading edge of the pad, squeeze the brake lever slightly, then do up the mounting bolts slightly. Hold the brake pad with one hand (to stop it rotating), the spanner or allen key in your other hand, and the brake lever with your gripping hand. If you're disadvantaged in the hand department I find that doing up the brake pad lightly while holding the brake lever, then releasing the lever and holding the pad to tighten it works.

The Park Tool website has an extended description.


See also an earlier answer: How do I know when to replace my tires?
To quote Sheldon Brown:

Many cyclists waste money replacing perfectly functional tires simply because they're old, or may have discolored sidewalls. If you just want new tires because the old ones look grotty, it's your money, but if you are mainly concerned with safety/function, there are only two reasons for replacing old tires:

When the tread is worn so thin that you start getting a lot of flats from small pieces of glass and the like, or the fabric shows through the rubber.
When the tire's fabric has been damaged, so that the tire has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tire.
Cracks in the tread are harmless.

In my opinion, this tire can still be used for certain types of riding, for the following reasons.

Sidewall cracks are minimal and cosmetic. No inner layers of tire nor tube can be seen through them. The rubber does not fall in chunks off the carcass.
I cannot see the tread, but if you do not get punctures often, it may be OK.
The "hairs" are likely to happen because rim brake pads occasionally touch the tire. This is not good, the pads must only touch the brake surface of the rim. Replacing them (fresh pads are "thinner" at the tip in the beginning of their life) and adjusting them (move them just a bit lower) until it is too late is in order.
The bulging of the tire is disconcerting. However, it seems to be caused by an uneven installation, and tire's bead sits just deeper at that section of the rim. For wide tires (2 inches or 50 mm wide), this does not affect the ride quality.

I would not take this tire to a long multiday touring trip or onto a blue mountainbike trail. But for running daily errands and commuting it should work for at least a season. Of course, regular visual pre-ride inspections (at least bi-weekly) are recommended to monitor the situation, as it is for any tire.


STI brake shifters for cantilever brakes?

Yes, they will work with most STI levers. Cantilevers and road calipers use the same cable pull. If you were ever to convert from cantilever to linear pull (v-brakes) then you would have to be more careful in matching them up.


I have an 8-speed GT Aggressor Pro and I want to upgrade it to have 12 rear cogs

Your frame most likely has rear hub width of 135 mm for 10 mm QR-axles. 12-speed groupsets are likely to only be compatible with through-axle hubs of widths 148 mm (boost), and 142 mm (non-boost) and diameter 12 mm.

However, some of 142 mm hubs can be converted to accept 135 mm QR-axles by means of end caps swap. And cheaper 12-speed groupsets such as Sram NX Eagle are made to work with older Shimano freehub splined bodies that are used by 8- to 11-speed cassettes. So there seems to be a possibility to achieve what you want.

See also this discussion on the topic: https://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/12-speed-9mm-qr-hubs-do-they-exist-1113587.html where some people report success of such a conversion to 12-speed. Good luck!


I saw a bike with a similar problem last weekend, but as other people have said, it's hard to know the correct answer without pictures and a better description.

In his case, the derailleur cage had somehow sprung past the stopper and the spring was fully unwound. The result was that the derailleur did not provide any chain tension.

Fixing it required:

Remove the chain
Rotate the cage against the spring and past the stopper, which was hard to get past
Put the chain back on.

After that it worked perfectly.


To do a proper job, get them blasted and powder coated.  This won't be quick or cheap.

First, price some brand new wheels as you want them to look.  This dollar-value is your hard upper limit, to compare with the costs of repainting.  No point spending more than this on your old wheels.

Disassemble wheel. You want bare naked rims with no spokes.  Store the loose parts safely.
Get it sand-blasted with glass or walnut or some other suitable abrasive.  This will clear the old coating off leaving bare metal.   Take the advise of your blasting company on the material.
Get it powder coated in bright orange or whatever colour you like.  Talk to the powder coating company about protecting the brake track if you intend to brake on it.  Otherwise powdercoat the whole thing.  This will take days to cure and harden.
Rebuild your wheels, true them, fit up and ride.

Other options might include getting your nipples and spokes powder coated too.  If you do this, buy some spares and get them coated at the same time, cos its not worth coating one spoke later.  Again, protect the threads from the coating.

Do please take before/after photographs and add them to an answer later.


Techniques to increase average cadence for endurance-riding?

If you want to change your cadence, just change it. Take your cruising gear on your bike and calculate what your current cruising cadence is. Let's say you usually cruise at 16mph and your typical cadence is 75. If you want to be at 90, go into a lower gear and try to keep the same speed. This will increase your cadence.

The benefit of a high cadence is that the higher the cadence the more aerobic you are (more cardio, less muscular). This will naturally increase your lung capacity providing increased stamina at any cadence because your vo2 max (google this) will increase with regular cardio sessions.


When most of your training is comprised of specific workouts then obviously you will be training solo a majority of the time.  The best way to gel as a team is to do a lot of races together.  Set aside a day each week for a group ride and don't limit it to just your team, make it competitive. This is a good time to work on your sprints, etc. A week long training camp early in the season is good, too.


Is it possible to replace this quick release part on a Motiv Rockpoint?

Quick releases are standard parts. You can replace the whole unit with a new one. Normally you buy them in pairs, front and rear together.

All you need to know is whether it is for a mountain bike or a road bike since the size of the rear one varies due to different rear axle lengths.

What is more worrying is the fact that the nut came off first place. This can only happen if the QR isn't properly fitted which is a potentially dangerous and even lethal situation. Check this video:


Different types of down tube shifter mounts

I don't know anything about the history or whys, but I have seen shifters by huret that match up with this type of mount (as @danielrhicks was getting at):

As you can see they have a square baseplate that acts as a stop for the shifter. I had always just assumed it was some sort of French standard that didn't last very long. I have also seen simplex shifters that have a similar design. Often times I've found these frames have a different thread pitch than shifters designed for non French frames as well, making it extra difficult to mount another shifter.

obviously a second, less than ideal option would be to use a clamp on shifter set lower on the downtube.

thanks, France.


You shouldn't experience pain on a well-fit bike. If you are finding that you have a lot of pain while cycling, you probably have one of two problems:

Your bike doesn't fit right. Back pain probably indicates that the distance to your handlebars is too long.
You didn't stretch well enough before hand or have aggravated an existing injury. You should probably get off the bike and relax a bit. Maybe talk to a doctor.


I went to college in Seattle and love the town. Very bicycle friendly town.  It does have ups and downs but the bike paths are pretty flat. If you you live on one of the hills then yes you may have a short steep section.

As cassettes have gotten bigger (9+) you can get a pretty big range so triple is less common.  Get a compact up front so you can use a 34T for the smaller. The 8 speed cassette bike you are looking at is 32T so you are pretty close to 1:1 which is a strong climber.  With a 9 speed you can get a 34 with the same spacing for a 1:1.  But a 9 speed will be a jump in price.

As an inexperienced rider with stop and go type traffic of a big city a hybrid or city type bike might be a better choice over a pure road bike.


Bar ends are as cheap or expensive as you want and easy to fit. Being unfashionable, you may be able pick up a set for nothing from a local bike co-op or recycle center to try.

Other add on's that you could try are bolt on aerobars.

Butterfly bars used by tourers could be worth looking into, although these are not widely used outside that circle so can be hard to come by or expensive.

Before spending too much money consider selling the bike and buying a road bike with drop bars for the same money. For no net cost, you will have a much better bike for the longer distances.


Do headset and frame metals need to match, or will a steel/aluminum headset get stuck on an aluminum/steel frame?

Seatposts have a relatively long length inside the tube, and no way to get a tool to the bottom of the post to hammer it. If you have a proper headset remover tool, I doubt a headset would ever get so stuck. (Even without the proper tool, it's unlikely to be a problem.)

Also, I don't believe there's such a thing as a headset with an alloy bearing race. So if it has alloy cups, they probably have replaceable bearings that fit inside it, so the cups shouldn't ever need replacing.


I highly doubt you'll be able to find a separate alloy casting to replace the one that broke. Even if you can you'll be faced with assembling the caliper which is not trivial.
Just buy a replacement caliper. Make sure you refill/bleed the hydraulic fluid according to Shimano's documented procedure, of have a competent bike shop do it for you.


Riding Cannondale Synapse on Paris-Roubaix terrain?

The bike can withstand it.  The question remains whether the ride can withstand it.  As for the bike, there are a handful of issues that are more likely to arise on such rides:

Filthy chain and gears.  Clean after each dirty ride.  Lube chain regularly.  Replace chain every one or two thousand miles, in accordance with a chain wear gauge.
Pinch flats.  You want low pressure in the tyres for comfort, but not so low that they pinch when running over gaps, ruts, and stones.  Use higher-volume tires such as 28mm ("28c") ones, but try them out in the store to make sure they fit your particular bike.
Eventually, blown spokes.  You will probably break a spoke if you ride on such terrain for thousands of kilometers.  This depends a lot on your weight and riding style.
Random bits getting loose.  Check the bike after every long ride for loose fasteners.  Use Loc-tite where appropriate.

The above would apply to any performance-oriented bike to some degree.  A more expensive road bike like the professionals use is of little advantage--what you really need is a team mechanic who looks after all these issues every day.


Is an overhanging roof shelter enough to safely leave bike outside?

A roof is better than no roof, but not as good as an enclosed space because wind can blow through bring dust and dirt and moisture.
Sunlight is also a source of slow continuous damage.  For years I kept bikes under a carport that was also sheltered from the sun, and while they still rusted, it was much slower than if they were out in the weather.
If safety means secure-from-theft then a roof makes practically no difference.  If someone wants to steal it they will.
Airflow can be useful, but a closed dry space is good too.  You want to avoid a damp airless space because that's not good.


If your wheel can spin freely around the axle, there's two scenarios here:

You've got super awesome bearings that have held up really well and still rotate freely.
The bearings are actually really tight and not moving at all and the wheel rotates on the axle itself.

Either way, since you mention the cones are loose, you should pull apart the hub and check the bearings. Look for dirty grease and see how the bearings/races look. Clean and repack if necessary.

New grease will always add a bit of friction, but as it breaks down and heats up (during use) it usually becomes more viscous, therefore reducing friction.


Cable stuck in Shimano twist grip shifter

When an "O" ring pick fails I used a small drill bit. First attempt is to drill a small hole in the (1/8 inch or smaller) cable anchor. Carefully try to start a small sheet metal screw into the drilled hole. pull on the screw with pliers. Method 2, drill a small hole through the plastic part just behind the anchor. Use an "O" ring pick to push the anchor out.


Why do riders not take advantage of other riders misfortune

This compilation of articles on the subject goes into a lot of depth and sources some examples and opinions of some very notable cyclists themselves.
http://bfc.sfsu.edu/cgi-bin/unwritten.pl?Dont_attack_when_your_rival_suffers_bad_luck_-_Cycling

"I don't know when it evolved," said Phil Liggett ... "It's been a gradual thing, this so-called unwritten code. But now it is understood. You don't attack a fallen man.
"The unwritten rules among elite bike riders hold that a rider should win through effort and talent, not through misfortune on the part of competitors."


Strength at high speed? I have ridden my road frame for 2 years now, and have many miles on it. One of my favorite rides takes me to a hilly section where I have a long sweeping downhill. On a good day, I can reach 70 km/hour. At the bottom is a bit of a tight bend where lateral forces are a plenty. The joints and the bamboo are holding up better than I expected. I love it!

Durability in the wet? The natural characteristics of the bamboo are phenomenal, including the water resistance of the exterior skin. As long as you seal it well so moisture cannot get inside (particularly where the skin is not present, like cuts and nicks in the bamboo or where the shoots come out of the sides at the nodes) you have nothing to worry about. I have been caught in some pretty horrendous monsoon downpours here in Thailand.

Weight - My 54cm road frame weighed in at 2.0 kgs. I built it light as I am a 150 lb rider. The last road frame (we call Thai Silk) that went out the door was a 58cm which weighed in at 5.4 kgs.

Joints - The only place you really need steel is where the bearings or threads go, like head tube, bottom bracket, drop outs (even then, there are ways around this as well). The joints are plenty strong from carbon fiber or fiberglass. Thermal expansion factors are something we consider on our proprietary joint construction. Some builders have abandoned carbon fiber because it is too stable, others have abandoned hemp/sisal joints because the rigidity degrades too rapidly. If you choose to use steel joint lugs, you will need to overcome the challenge of a good bond between the bamboo and the steel.
Take a look at our site if interested BambooBikeMaker.com or email me at philwebb333 [at] gmail [dot] com


Fitting Matchmaker X to SRAM Guide T brakes?

Further research shows there are two systems, Matchmaker and Matchmaker X. My Guide T brakes allow the use of Matchmaker and the new Eagle Shifters use Matchmaker X. It seems as though all of the other Guide brakes (including the R the bottom picture above) use Matchmaker X.
I either need to find a Matchmaker clamp adapter like this https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/db-acc-mm-a1 (which I'm unable to find in Europe), or swap my brakes at the same time.


Sounds like you want to use your current V-Brakes, but if getting new brakes, TRP makes mini V-Brakes that are STI lever compatible, sometimes called a brifter (brakes and shifting in one lever). Most V-Brakes have a different pull ratio which is not compatible with brifters.

The TRP CX9 is for Shimano STI levers

The TRP CX8.4 is for SRAM and Campagnolo levers


The chain is stuck because of its short length and cross-chaining - the chain links are severely bent. Also with the chain not clean it will not turn nicely in such a scenario:

Also your chain is short, making your derailleur stretch forward (marked blue) which makes the cross-chaining even more severe (marked red). On such a stretched derailleur there are bad side forces (maybe the little wheels in the derailleur get stuck while being bent).

For old drive trains cross-chaining was not accounted for as it is bad practice. Such rear derailleurs usually doesn't have a range like new ones. New bikes are designed to handle cross-chaining and such a chain would be definitely too small for them, but for old bikes it's more complicated. Looking at first picture where you have small-ring + small-gear (the shortest chain length) your derailleur could accommodate for a bit longer chain making the setup safer if you accidentally shift into big-ring + big-gear.

You can have the same gear ratio using other gears instead of cross-chaining:

You can see that 48T front 32T back (big-big) gives the same ratio as 36T front 24T back (middle-middle) which makes the chain straight.

The not-cross-chaining rule:

for small chain-ring use only the bigger half of your cassette
for middle ring you can use all your cassette
for big ring use only the smaller half of your cassette

In practice it's even less as this table of gear ratios explains (this is for 44-32-22 crank and 11-32 teeth cassette):

You only need to cover with the big and small ring what cannot be covered with the middle ring. See how this XTR9000 Di2 Syncro-Shift is shifting. When it shifts the front it also shifts the back at the same time, and it prevents cross-chaining. This video also shows gearing efficiency.


How to attach cable mounting points to a bicycle frame?

I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.

If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.

Items linked are examples and not endorsements.


No, it is not serious, you should not believe these descriptions. They just try to attract people searching various terms.
There are indeed many counterfeits in these shops. When they claim so much different stuff at once it is quite certain.
That does not mean that the frame would not work, but if shopping in Asia it is better to shop from brands that do not pretend they are something else and sell under their own Asian brands.


Zero Offsetting P1 pedals using just Rouvy android mobile app

Here is what I was received from Rouvy help desk:

"The problem is that this feature is not available on Android. But, you can use any desktop app and just Zero offset your pedals and then use your phone for a ride."


Interesting question! Embrocation sounds very gimmicky to me but I don't race. I wonder if the effect is like drinking hard liquour when you're cold, which a lot of ppl think warms you up. In reality alcohol is also a vasodilator, pushing blood to the surface of your skin and making you feel warmer. This is contrary to what your body is trying to do in cold weather, which is maintain core temperature.

So arguably, vasodilation could be a good thing in a controlled and not-too-cold scenario, e.g. cycling in cold weather, where you want your muscles and skin warm, and are not concerned about hypothermia. But it's probably to be avoided in seriously cold scenarios, although at such times you're probably no longer relying on embrocation for warmth but instead full-on thermal leggings or snow pants.


Are bike saddles always removable from the saddle post?

Saddles are always removable from the seatpost or, in some cases, the seat mast. I am not aware of any arrangements where the saddle is made in one piece with a seatpost or equivalent part. Because saddles are extremely personal, and even a rider's own saddle preference can change over time, it seems unlikely that there are such construction arrangements - I suppose a weight weenie cyclist might be willing and able to make or commission a saddle without rails bonded to a carbon seatpost or seat mast topper, but that would be very niche application. It would also be pointless, because most high end stock rim brake bikes and even a number of disc brake bikes can be brought under the UCI weight limit.
That said, a very small number of bikes have a seat tube that extends up from the top tube, which I believe is called a seat mast. You would clamp your saddle in a seat mast topper, then mount that on the mast. You would cut the seat tube to the correct length, and the mast topper offers a small range of height adjustment in case you need to change your saddle height. Probably the most prominent example is the Giant TCR, pictured below.

The picture is from this Velonews Q&A session with Lennard Zinn, where he fields a couple of letters from readers who are trying to extend a mast that had been cut, or else to just get a bit more saddle height than their cut mast allowed for. This neatly illustrates the potential downside of the seatmast design.
To the original question: in this arrangement, I suppose you could just remove the seatmast topper along with the saddle. However, the saddle is manufactured separately from the topper - or else how would you change your saddle horizontal position?
Why on earth would anyone make such an item? It could be lighter than seat tube and seat post arrangement, although remember that the impact of small amounts of weight on cycling performance are negligible. Open Cycles uses a seat mast arrangement on its Open MIND bike, and their webpage says that it allows them to make the seat tube very thin, at about 25mm - recall that a thinner tube should have more compliance than a thicker one, which should increase comfort. Alternatively, Speedvagen is a small batch steel frame builder, and as best as I can determine, the seat mast arrangement is an aesthetic choice only, and it's one of their signature design elements.
A 2008 article from Road Bike Action discusses some of the potential advantages of seatmasts, but I believe some of the arguments are incorrect (e.g. aerodynamic seat tubes and posts are more widely available today, although the post tends to be proprietary to each frame). If my memory is correct, seatmasts may have had a brief bloom in popularity in the late 2000s and early 2010s, but clearly they have not become widely accepted.


Based on your comment, I think I may have misunderstood your original question.

Most bike shops I know seem to be "licensed resellers" for just a couple of brands. My local shop, for example, stocks only Bianchi and Specialized. If I want to buy a Trek I need to go someplace else. A lot of web sites in the cycling business (certainly in the UK) are basically virtual fronts for bricks-and-mortar shops, so it doesn't really surprise me that when you go to a particular web site, you don't see a broad range of brands.

To be honest, if you are looking for a branded frame, your best approach might be to go in the other direction. Find the frame that you like, then find a dealer (either locally or through a web site). You might need a dealer's help in any case if you're looking just for a frame rather than a complete bike. But e.g. Bianchi offer frames on their site, so presumably someone, somewhere will sell you one!

In my comment I mentioned a couple of bike shops who (I think) have brought in generic carbon frames and built and branded them. That route may also be an option.


New inner tube bulges near the valve when inflated

Unless the tire bead (the re-enforcing wire around the edges) is damaged your tire is simply not seated on the rim properly near the valve and has popped off as the tube was inflated.

Tube size seems OK. 32/47  possibly means it's compatible with 32-47mm tires. If it's about the same as your old tube that it's OK.

Deflate the tube and re-seat the tire. It's probably a good idea to get one side of the tire off the rim and make sure the tube is installed correctly too.

There are many good videos on YouTube that show correct procedure (try this one). but some key points:

Make sure the tube is not pinched between the tire and rim.
Make sure the reenforced valve area of the tube is pushed up into the tire
Make sure the tire is evenly seated on the bead all the way around. There is often a line moulded into the tire around the bead that lines up with the rim you can use a a reference.


Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home?

Copied this from a BikeRadar article:

How to measure your own sit bones
Of course the measure you really want is between the centres of your ischial tuberosities – the pointy lower parts of your pelvic bone on either side. Many bike dealers have a pad that you can sit on to measure this distance, but you can do it at home too.
Take a piece of aluminium kitchen foil and place it on a carpeted stair. Sit on the foil, lean forward a bit to approximate your riding position, then lift your feet. This should leave a good impression of your rear in the foil, and you can measure between the two points of deepest impression to get your sit bone width.
‘Narrow’ sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm.
A saddle’s width is measured from edge to edge across the top, and Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide. These ﬁgures should translate approximately across other ranges, with all other factors taken into account.


To figure out what cassette and ring size to get, the best approach is to use a gearing calculator to play with the options in comparison to what you need or would like based on your experience with bike's current gearing and how it's working for you where you ride. With 1x conversions the usual question is how much high end you can accept losing to get the low end you need or want.

The cheap way is to figure out what ring to go with based on the above and then get a narrow-wide ring of the right BCD to achieve it. Do all chainline measurements up front and use chainring spacers, a different BB spindle, and/or an offset chainring as applicable to achieve perfect chainline.


How to center a quick release rear wheel regularly

There are two types of rear dropout, ones that are vertical and ones that are horizontal.

With vertical dropouts you put the gears in top at the back and low at the front. Then you put the wheel in. Then you put some weight on the seat and fold the quick release lever over, applying whatever adjustment needed to get the quick-release tensioned correctly. The lever should fold up rather than down, forward or back as you don't want passing vegetation or other cycles to come into contact with the lever.

Horizontal dropouts require pretty much the same procedure however you have the problem of making sure the wheel is equidistant to the chain-stays. This is best done by having good eyesight and holding the wheel in place whilst you fold over the quick-release lever.

More generally you have a time penalty each and every time you lock/unlock your bike. You may want to consider investing in a cable loop to go through your D-lock and around the back wheel. These are affordable and need be not that bulky as someone is less inclined to saw through it to get your back wheel than they would be if they were able to get your whole bike. It will deter the casual rather than the determined thief.

The other option is to get a set of replacement quick-release levers with Allen key or 'special key' heads. In the UK these need not set you back more than fifteen pounds for the simple Allen key versions:

The 'special key' versions are worth the premium because you need more than an Allen key to get them undone:

These are a lot cheaper online, you can get the set for all of £8 if you Google 'Trans-X' quick release skewers.

the only pain with them is that the key needs to be carried and that does not fit onto a standard keyring too well.


The vehicular and cycle traffic has priority, since the crossing is not a zebra crossing and there are no traffic lights, which are the only situations in which the Highway Code talks about pedestrians having priority.

However, as you have noted, many people seem to be confused by the crossing, so you should be ready to stop in case a pedestrian does step into the roadway or cycle lane. Also, be alert to the possibility of motorists stopping and beckoning pedestrians to cross into your path and the possibility of a group of pedestrians blocking the cycle path because it was clear when they started to cross but now they're waiting for cars on the road.


Is this front derailer snapped and/or bent?

Yes.  That is definitely broken, and appears to be irreparable, you will need to replace that.


Fuelling multi-day riding (carb loading/replacement)

Summing up the comments, advice received elsewhere, and experience having tried it:

Hydration is just as important.  You don't want to start the second day even slightly dehyrated (which you wouldn't notice sat at a desk, so may nopt be expecting if you're used to single-day rides).  Start rehydrating as soon as you finish the first ride, even if you think you don't need it.
A proper dinner on the night in between rides (carbs and protein) and a proper breakfast (carbs).  If you're starting a hard effort early, you may have your own approach to breakfast.
Do try to keep carbs topped up on the first day, whether this is by proper food or gels.  The choice is likely to be a matter of preference and ride type.
Carry more gels/sweets/energy drink than you think you'll need on the second day, and/or be prepared to stop and buy something.


Should I switch to a smaller chain ring?

If I were in your situation, I would definitely get a compact (50/34) crank.  Gaining lower gears for climbing makes some uphills possible and other uphills easier. All you have to give up is maybe some top speed on downhills. You're still able to ride those downhills, only you'll be going 55kph instead of 60kph.  Or increase your cadence.  In general I come across a lot of people who think they need huge gears because they somehow want to have a really low cadence.

Since you said you're riding for fitness and weight loss, I don't think that top speed is a priority for you -- you're not competing against others in a race.  It's much more important that you can handle hills and don't hurt your knees.

My top gear is 46/11 and I never find that to be a limitation.  A cadence of 120rpm is quite reasonable for a few minutes (few descents are really long) and 120rpm with a gear of 46/11 is approximately 65kph.  With a top gear of 50/11, it's 71kph.


You'd probably get a good information by looking at the components.  Assuming the components are original, you can tell a lot information about the general quality of the frame from the quality components. Almost nobody is putting DuraAce on a cheap Walmart frame, and almost nobody is putting Tourney parts on a Cervello.  The bolt on wheels and ProMax crank lead to me believe that this bike is more likely from Walmart or another department store. That doesn't mean it is, but it could be.  Also, it has V-Brakes, which most quality full suspension bikes don't use any more. They've almost entirely switched over to disk brakes at the high end.  Get some more pictures showing close ups of the derailleurs, crankset, suspension, and the markings on the rim of the wheel to help us evaluate it further.


Mavic pedals are ATAC (see also the cleat page). They were developed by TIME and just rebranded by Mavic.

So, I'd expect that they're compatible.


What size is the tiny ball bearing used in SRAM rim-brake caliper quick release detents?

The balls are 2mm in diameter.

How do I know?  Well, I found a bearing supply shop, and asked them to see some of their smallest balls.  I bought one 2mm ball and one 3/32" (2.38mm) ball for all of 20 cents.  The 3/32" ball was slightly too large to fit in the hole, so I tried the 2mm one, and bingo--a perfect fit.  Putting the QR mechanism back together is a pain because the tiny 2mm spring wants to eject the ball again, but with the brake facing straight down it's doable.


Does it makes sense to buy a women's seat for man's mountain bicycle?

What matters is that the saddle is comfortable for the rider given the rides they're doing.
There are obvious differences between male and female anatomy, which aren't to be neglected (here's some in-depth further reading, though the focus is on long road rides).  This can lead to a need for different structure towards the front of the saddle in particular.  This is most true if riding in aggressive (tucked) positions, so road racing, time trials etc.
We can't make any assumptions about how sit-bone width relates to hip/pelvis width or sex, and in a more upright position the sit-bones, which always bear most of the weight, are hopefully the only parts experiencing real pressure.
In technical mountain biking, you're not on the saddle much anyway, so it matters still less.  Still, the longer end of this, if spent on the sort of trails where you'd sit down, can be really rather uncomfortable.
You don't say how much cycling she's done.  If she's coming from very little, some initial discomfort may be expected - try gel-padded shorts/tights and anti friction chamois cream at first.  New riders change quite a bit around the weight-bearing parts, and may even lose some fat, i.e. change shape, so rushing into a new saddle may not be a good idea.
My suggestion is that she starts with the stock saddle.  It may be absolutely fine.  If she's experiencing discomfort, especially numbness or obviously pressure-related discomfort that isn't improved by padded shorts and chamois cream, then it's time to look for a new saddle.  It would be sensible at that stage to consider women's saddles, though not exclusively.


Take the shell off of each side of that bottom bracket and grease each one up, along with the spindle. When you tighten that bottom bracket back on, don't over torque it or under torque it, if you over torque or under torque that bad boy is going to squeak. If you aren't sure of the torque or you don't have a torque wrench, visit your local shop.

Take the shell off of each side of that bottom bracket and grease each one up, along with the spindle.


I am a long distance rider.  You don't sound unfit.  A few things to look at:

Diet.  Eating the correct food at the correct times greatly affects your performance and recovery.  Your post-ride recovery drink/ meal is as important as the ride itself and should be taking within 30min of getting off the bike.  Remember you're always eating for the next day.
Sleep pattern.  Consider whether you're getting enough sleep.
Heart Rate zones.  Are you pushing too hard too long?  Doing a 200km ride at 80% of max compared to doing it at 65% will also have a huge impact.
Health.  Are you getting or sick?  Maybe you're showing early signs of a cold or flu.

Otherwise get off the bike for a few days.  It may also be psychological.  Then start again with a lower HR, focus on nutrition and remember to have fun!


That might be a security bolt - although the photo is unclear. Are you sure the bike wasn't stolen? The previous owner should have had the matching 'key' for the security bolt. If you don't have the key (and have made sure your bike isn't stolen by checking the stolen bike indexes), you can remove the security bolt by using  brute force (grinder, dremel, vice grips, jamming an allen key into it, etc.). These are usually destructive processes.

Otherwise, if it's just an allen (hex) nut, you can remove it with an allen key / hex driver. Your local bike or hardware store should have one that fits.

Once you get it off, replacement quick releases are easily purchased at your bike store or online. You could even replace it with your own security skewer such as a PitLock, for which you'd have the key.

If it were me, though, I'd keep the hex bolt as is and just get a $10-15 bike multitool that has the right size hex. The hex provides a modicum of security (especially if you fill it with a ball bearing/wax) and makes it a smidge harder for bike thieves to make of with. It'll just add a few more seconds to changing your tire but will prevent casual theft.


The 4300 came with a very basic suspension. As such it has very basic adjustments. The preload adjustment makes the spring feel stiffer by slowing the initial compression of the fork. There is no dampening or rebound adjustment which would control the speed at which the fork extends after it compresses. What you may be experiencing is the lack of rebound control. The preload is at its' max with the knob screwed in or turned counterclockwise until it stops. It is possible that either the knobs are broken or the fork has worn out if you see no difference with different settings. Unfortunately there are no parts available for these. Your bike has a 1 1/8" straight steerer tube which is no longer used on higher quality forks. So your options are limited to looking for a older used fork or replacement with a size adjusted rigid fork.


Will Shimano Di2 synchro shift work with an XT (Mountain) rear derailleur with an Ultegra (Road) front derailleur on the same bike?

No, Shimano's software intentionally disallows you from setting your bike up with a mix of mountain and road derailers. Boycott-worthy, I say.

It's very common for touring tandemists to wind up feeling best served by doing something or other with their front chainring setup that is just never going to work well with front indexing or di2. If you look at serious, cost no object touring tandems that get ridden, you'll see a lot of downtube and bar end shifters.


Luck, most likely.

You probably have a slow leak, which you could treat by replacing the tube or just keep pumping air in as necessary. Less plausibly, theres something up with your valve. You could try taking the tube out of the tire and pumping it up with a bit of air and putting it in your bath tub to see if you can find some bubbles.

[In the comments, DRH has the reverse ordering on plausibilities]


Yes, the number most usually listed is 700x32, so anything with that in the range will be the right size. You can even get away with slightly bigger or smaller tubes in a pinch.

The ones you linked to should be fine, or try these from Schwalbe. Some people recommend Schwalbe for reliable tubes as well as tyres.

Note valves: It might matter whether you currently have Schrader (like a car tyre) or Presta valves. If you have presta, the Schrader tube valves might not fit through the hole in the rim. Probably simplest to get the same kind.


What inner tube should I buy for 47 tire size, 650bx47c tires?

1.5"/2.4", 1-1/2 are the tyre width ranges the tube is compatible with. Your tyre size is indicated in mm (ETRTO standard sizing), but 47 mm is 1.85" so 1.5" / 2.4" is compatible.
The 650x28-42 is for narrower tyres. 1-1/2 (650x35) (1.5 inch, 35 mm)is likely too narrow as well, although one should check the actual lower and upper limits.


New to cycling, wrist pain while cycling

"wrist gets pain"
The wrists need training, so some pain is understandable for a first time rider.

"feeling like falling down on the bar"
This is the normal position on a race bike. It is NOT normal position on a MTB. You probably need the handlebar at a higher height, or closer to you.

Also, looking at a "mountain bike size chart", it might be that the bike is too large for you, you'd probably need M size, or 16-17 (18.5 is XL).
This can be partially alleviated using a short stem (the handlebar as close to you as possible), but a smaller size bike will be better.
You could also shift your saddle forward some, but that changes the "seat above the pedals" distance, and brings with it other problems.

EDIT: At your height, you're just a bit over "S" size recommendations, so 16" frame would be better.


Can not replace Shimano Octalink with 105 Crankset

Check your shell width. Shimano road cranks only work with 68mm shells and require 'road' version of the Hollowtech BB. (MTB cranks / MTB BBs work with 68 and 73mm shells.) I think it's likely you have a 73mm shell.

See this answer for details on the difference between road and MTB BBs.

Update: just looked at the pic of your old BB and it is in fact marked '73'.


Shimano Acera hits spokes. Which screw to turn?

You need to adjust the L-Limit screw - Have a look at this Park Tool guide.
The problem may also be a bent derailleur hanger. Checking and, if needed, fixing this is best done with a specialized tool, and is quick and easy if you have that tool. While it is possible to make the check and repair without the tool, the precision is nowhere near as good.  This Park Tool guide might be helpful
Given that it's a new bike, I would do a sight check for a bent hanger; if obviously bent, send it back to the shop. If not, have a go at adjusting the L-Limit. If it does not all come together easily with smooth shifting and good spoke clearance, get the shop onto it as it could still be a bent hanger. Without the tool, it takes a good eye to spot a small error.


What is the folded size of ORI AR18 or ORI CR87?

There's a footnote on page 3 of the PDF brochure you linked:

Approximate unfolded size L:1430 W:550 H:1000 Wheelbase:980 BB height:300 (mm) mm mm
Approximate folded size L:690 W:310 H:630 Volume:0.134 (mm) m
Ori is designed and tested for use by riders weighing up to 100kg


Replacement crankset for MegaExo BB 24mm on 8 speed bike

is there anything special I need to consider for the 8 speed?

Yes, you specifically need an 8 speed crank.
8, 9, 10 etc speed group sets use progressively narrower chains, and the cranks have narrower chainring spacing to suit.
Many people seem to think you can get away with one speed difference and there are special shims available that adjust chainring spacing but it’s easier to just get a explicitly compatible crank.
Be aware that FSA MegaExo road (68mm shell) is dimensionally the same as Shimano Hollowtech II road, so you can fit a Shimano crank. Personally if I were upgrading to a Shimano crank I’d upgrade the bottom bracket to a Shimano unit also.


I am an industrial chemist, and manufacture commercial-grade degreasers and other cleaners.

Firstly, there are 3 main parts to a degreaser:

Alkaline booster, to increase the pH, allowing the dirt, grease and grime to be effectively removed, for faster cleaning
Solvent, to cut through tough grime and grease, as well as extract grime and grease from hard-to-get areas
Surfactant, to hold grime and grease in the cleaning solution, preventing it from depositing back on the bikes surface once lifted off by the solvent and the alkaline solution

(there are also other components in professional degreasers, such as water softeners, hydro-tropes, anionic and ionic surfactants, specific application solvents, etc...)

The main source of the above 3 parts can be from using baking soda as a alkaline booster, methylated spirit as a solvent (I would use methylated spirit because it is water-soluble), and a small amount of dish-washing liquid as a surfactant.

An example formulation by volume would be:

50% Methylated Spirit
40% Water (H20)
5% Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda)
5% Dish-washing Liquid

The methylated spirit and the sodium bicarbonate will work together to extract and lift the dirt/grime/grease, and the dish-washing liquid will work as a surfactant to stop it from depositing back on the bike again.

The dish washing liquid will also act as a wetting agent and a foam booster.

EDIT ----

Please also note, that the methylated spirit will prevent (or nearly prevent) any foam or the like from forming. If you want foam, you will have to substitute the methylated spirits with a mild solvent that is hydrophilic and not oil-based (lipophilic).


Your question can't be answered as written.

The rim diameter (20") is not directly correlated with the tyre width.

Since your frame can fit a 2.35" wide tyre, there's a very good chance a 2.4" tyre will fit.  However it is an increase of 2.1% so if you're running close now you may be out of luck.

The only time the rim dictates tyre width is the inner width of the valley of the rim.

So your 2.35" tyre is 59mm moving to 2.4" which is 61mm.  Chart suggests your rim will be fine.

TL;DR your frame is the limiting factor, not the rim.


What's the efficiency of hub gears compared to derailleurs?

A lot depends on the rider and what you mean by efficiency.

It is easy to keep a hub gear running well for years, but an unmaintained derailleur will become inefficient very quickly.  A hub gear allows the chain to be fully enclosed, for all but the most dedicated cyclist; an enclosed chain will be more efficient as it will be cleaner and better oiled.

An enclose chain allows you to arrive at work, with clean cloths and no need to change, this can save lots of time.  Not having to spend time adjusting a derailleur or cleaning your chain also increase the efficiency of your life.
However it takes longer to remove the wheel if you have hub gears and an enclosed chain.

Gear shifting efficiency. This is most important in cities with many traffic lights to stop at. With a derailleur, you must shift before you stop, or you'll be starting in a high gear. With an IGH, you can forget about shifting while you are braking, and just select the right gear for the next acceleration a second before you start pedaling. It's a huge difference for a commuter, irrelevant for a racer.

Personally I think on a road bike:

Hub gears are more efficient if you wish to use a bike to make lot of short trips as part of your day to day life.
But derailleurs are more efficient if you consider going fast on a bike to be very important and are willing to put the work into the bike that is needed to keep it in a very good state of maintenance.

(I also like hub brakes for the same reason)


I hate to say it but this is why it's advisable to go to a bike shop, if you're not sure about setting things up.

You raise a couple of points:

Front disk brake. Regarding your original problem, the rotor should not rub against the pads, period. There should be no contact unless you're actually braking. And when you stop braking, the pads should sit back. I'm not sure where "the wind" has come from, but that sounds like baloney to me - especially if you've taken it to the shop about a rubbing problem. As regards the recent movement - the calliper should be attached to the fork such that movement is not possible. Possibly you didn't tighten things enough, possibly you didn't set them up correctly in the first place. Rain should have no effect.
Front derailleur. It sounds like this just needs to be adjusted, which is straightforward. I see someone has already posted a comment with a link describing how to do this.
Bike looks. Do you really care about this? If it worries you, go ride in some mud. Do this after you get the brake fixed!

I think you should probably have a bike shop look at your front brake, as obviously you need this to work reliably. They'll be able to sort your derailleur too, as I said that's likely trivial. But to be honest I'd be wary of going back to a shop that claims that the rotor rubbing on  the pads is caused by wind - I just don't see how this can be the case.


Assuming the shifter and derailleur have compatible cable pulls (which you should check), you won't be able to perfectly adjust the shifter to shift smoothly on a cassette of 7, since the cable pull which moves the shifter for 8 speeds is likely not enough for 7 speeds. Thus, generally, you need to match the shifters with the derailleur and the cassette spacing.

Sheldon Brown has some comments on 7 speed setups and running an 8 speed shifter with 7 speeds through some alternate cable routing, but given that you can buy an 8 speed cassette for like 10 bucks, it seems like an unnecessary hassle (given the extra time you'll be spending tweaking adjustment). Or you can bolt on a 5 buck friction shifter and save yourself some time too.


Since drag is related to velocity squared at low speeds anti-aero won't do much.  Bulky regular clothes but that won't change your aerodynamics much. Why not just divert and take a longer route to commute?


Unless you are an elite-level professional cyclocross athlete, you will never have to worry about the rolling resistance of your cyclocross tires. And at that point you will be able to pay someone else to worry about those things for you.


Can someone locate my missing derailleur hanger

Your bike doesn't have a separate hanger.  The hanger is integral part of your frame, and is the metal "drop" hanging down below the axle nut.
What has been lost is the bolt and spring mechanism of your rear derailleur.  I've never seen these as spare parts, so you're up for a replacement rear derailleur.

Separately, the thread inside that large hole looks somewhat chewed up, which could explain how it came out.  I'd advise cleaning up the thread with the appropriate tap or the mech will fall off again.
Its up to you and your brother to figure out who's paying for the replacement part.  To be fair, even if he did pick up all the parts it might be unrepairable.  You should always return loaned items in the condition they were lent.


Not sure about filling in hairlines, but I have used Pledge and have been very happy with the results!


Waterproof spray or waterproof pannier cover?

I've personally never seen or heard of a waterproof spray that will protect against soaking. Water hitting the material might run off fairly well, but a continuous rain soaks it so much that water will just seep through. That might not be a problem for commuting, but I'm assuming that if you're going through the extra step of double water-proofing, you're probably touring. If you're touring, you're almost certainly going to be stuck riding in the rain for an extended period of time at some point.

Waterproof covers are ok. The problem is that they don't completely cover the pannier since they can't wrap around the mounting hardware. The back of the pannier will get wet. If there's enough rain, it'll get wet enough to soak through to what's inside. Another problem with covers, and this is the part that I like the least about them, is that it's just one more thing that you have to carry around. I'm not necessarily a weight-weenie, but I am a space-weenie and covers take up a fair amount of it.

Personally, I'd recommend skipping the dry bags (again, they just take up extra space) and getting fully waterproof roll-top panniers like the ones made by Ortlieb, Axiom, or Vaude. These bags will stand up to a freaking monsoon without any worry of water getting inside. The only real water related problem that you're likely to run into is that humidity can build up and condense inside the bags. But you're not talking about a huge amount of water there, certainly less than you would if you were caught in a downpour with a bag that wasn't waterproof to begin with.


What are the advantages of investment casting?

I think the investment casting of the entire headtube is something particular to BMX bikes. It makes sense, for reasons outlined below.

Typical parts of a bicycle which can be investment-cast are:

Head lugs
Dropouts
Seat clusters
Bottom bracket shells
Seat-stay and chain-stay bridges
Fork crowns

The easiest way to see why investment casting is preferable is to compare it to the alternative ways the same items can be made: (modified from here)

Investment Casting: This is the most common method of making high quality lugs.  This is the oldest form of metal forming on the planet.
Stamped & Rolled: This is the lease expensive way to make lugs in large quantities, as they can be stamped from a flat sheet, and formed into the required shape.
Bulge Forming: Relatively rare, this involves placing a steel tube into a shaped mold and using hydrostatic pressure to expand and shape the tube.
Welding/Brazing Tubes Together & Filing:  This is also a common method, but intricate and time consuming.
Machined/CNC'd: Possible but not really used. Wastes a lot of material.

The two biggest problems with all the alternative methods are:

They are formed into a different shape from a cold, pre-formed piece of metal (Stamped, Bulge, Machined/CNC'd), thereby reducing strength, or
They have some weak spot (Rolled, Welding/Brazing), thereby reducing strength.

In investment casting, the steel is allowed to settle into its final shape while it's hot and allowed to slowly cool. This means that in it's final form, the metal is under absolutely zero stress trying to maintain it's shape. Furthermore, it ensures very even distribution (for example, rolled steel may be thin on the convex side and thick on the concave side).


What kind of lubrication is used on Electra Townie 8i chain?

The chain is a KMC Rustbuster - it has a special coating on the plates and waterproof grease inside the 'bushing-less' bits. You don't have to do anything to it until the rust-proof coating wears off from the inside of the plates. Therefore, don't do anything to the chain - applying 'WD40' style lubes will only displace the grease by emulsifying it. Wait until this time next year and, if the chain appears 'orange rust coloured' after a ride in the rain, pop some medium flavour oil on it, sparingly.

Maybe Electra should have some words in the instruction manual as they have included a rather special chain that you are lucky to own.


What torque for caliper brakes onto carbon-alloy forks?

The Park Tool BBB-2 lists the recommended torque for side/dual/center pull Shimano brakes as a range from 7.84-9.8 Nm. I see no specific mention for carbon frames/forks. Bicycle tutor has a similar table here: http://bicycletutor.com/torque-specifications/


Safety comparison, downhill mountain bike vs. downhill ski

Having done both, I'd say they are about equally dangerous with the edge going to downhill biking.

It's easier to gain momentum on a downhill bike and harder to properly lose it.  Additionally equipment failure is a bigger concern and generally more catastrophic.  Downhill biking in the winter pads the ground (like skiing) but, during all seasons, trees are an ever present danger.  Losing control and hitting an unmoving object at 30 mph will generally have a bad outcome.

As a parent myself, I expect I'll probably downhill bike with my children at some point. As long as they work on learning control at slower speeds first and learn how fast and hard to press their limits they'll probably be fine.  Most of the injuries I have seen downhill biking have been with younger kids trying to ride way above their ability level.  The group of older guys I ride with are rarely (if ever) injured.  We generally ride right at our ability level and maintain control.  That being said, none of us are ever going pro.

In your situation, if you are just trying to maintain consistency AND have already decided downhill skiing is out (based solely on risk) then I'd say you should probably exclude downhill biking as well.


Rounding spoke length calculator results

Given that there's a bit of forgiveness thanks to the length of the spoke nipples that the spokes will thread into you could safely round down to Left 292mm and Right 290mm for spoke lengths.

An alternative is just rounding to 292mm for both sides - especially if your rim has recessed spoke holes (as most double wall rims do).


New Bike + Disc Brake Shuddering: Cause and Fix?

Skipping the "proper" bedding in process can do this yes. Bedding in brake pads impregnates the rotor surface with material. There is a particular process to do it because you want a good even layer. If skipped, the will still get "bedded in" but possibly unevenly, causing vibrations and ultimately a shudder like you have described as the pads skip over these slightly thicker portions of the rotor. The proper method has guidelines of how fast and how hard to brake which has been proven to help keep the bedded layer smooth. Also if not bedded in and then ridden EXTREMELY hard brand new, meaning some downhill action,it is possible (but unlikely) to get hot spots much like car brake rotors can get when super heated beyond their intended use.

Their are several ways to handle this situation, there is a resurfacing paste product called Squeeel Out that works decent, or you can resurface them yourself which generally works pretty well. To do so you will sand both the pads and the rotor surface, and then follow the initial bed in procedure.

When sanding the pads, it is easiest to lay a piece of sandpaper on a hard flat surface and drag the pad around in circular motions. Sand the pad directly doesn't work as well because you don't get an even sanding. The rotor can be done a similar way, or by laying the rotor on a flat surface and hand sanding with a sanding block. You don't have to take a ton of material off, just remove the surface contaminants. After sanding the rotor clean with alcohol and allow to dry.

Some people would recommend buy a new rotor and/or set of pads but i have had good luck with saving them the ways mentioned above. While you have the rotor off you can also check that it is true, but that shouldn't be an issue with it being new, but then again i have seen them come out of the package slightly bent.


I will try to answer as best i can without going into too much detail,

1 : With a 15c rim you can mount 23, 25, 28 and 32 tires Sheldon brown Tire Sizing

2 : Bike weight, Tacx don't specifically list any info regarding bike weight, as the user of the bike on the trainer can vary, I doubt this will be issue unless we're talking excessive weight.

3 : Tacx recommend the use of their tire as it has been designed to run without overheating, a quick search on the Tacx website has the 4 different sizes listed for 40 euros (Doesn't sound to bad to be fair) Tacx Tires

Hopefully this helps you out.


Searching model number of Shimano shifting lever

SL-RS35 is correct, there are newer versions however, there are many you can replace it with. Shimano uses a 2 to 1 pull ratio for shifters, Sram uses a 1 to 1 except for their entry level MX lines.

In layman's terms you will be fine with just about any twist shifter made for 3x7 speed, Shimano Tourney or Revo twist, Sunrace, or Sram MRX Comp

Compatibility should not be an issue with these entry level parts. There are also several on Amazon but I personally like to support my local bike shop.

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AShimano%20Revoshift

Here are some compatible Sram MRX shifter for sale online
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Drehgriff-Set-SRAM-MRX-Grip-Shift-7-3-fach-/181693382982?hash=item2a4dc50146:g:DMMAAOSwGiRTqtpz

Located in Germany :)


Does bicycle rim wear affect wheel truing?

Wear will only vary around the circumference in rather odd cases, e.g. a significantly out of true wheel with brakes that don't self centre, damage, or local contamination reducing friction.
The two sides should wear evenly as well, as brakes rely on squeezing the pads against opposite sides. Here though, it would be possible to get some uneven wear. Perhaps chain oil on the drive side would reduce friction and wear, or one pad could get a piece of metal or grit embedded and grind down one side, but you should hear that and fix it even if you don't do much to care for the bike.
Radially, an old rim will eventually have a taper both due directly to wear on the braking surface (but not right at the bead) and indirectly as the worn rim is thinner and deforms due to tyre pressure. If you're truing such an old wheel to a really precise level, you'll need it to be good and round, and well centred, or you'll be measuring at different radii where wear is different. But if you're seeking real perfection from a well worn wheel, perhaps it's time to go shopping for a new one.


I own a bike shop and one of the reasons I noticed when a tube is punctured is that the rim tape/strip is not in place properly, like it has folded over itself.  If you have ridden your bike for a while, the rivets on the rim may have rusted and they create sharp edges that can puncture your tyre.  If this is the case, straighten the rim tape/strip to cover the rivets completely.  You will have to change the rim tape/strip if that is no longer feasible.  If you would like to save on paying for it, ask the bike shop to give you a punctured tube of size smaller than your wheel size.  You can cut a strip off the punctured tube and place it over the rim.  Make sure that you have cut a hole big enough to push through the tube valve.


Why are brake ferrules longer than shift ferrules?

Stepped brake ferrules, the long type you mention, exist for using 5mm compressionless (aka braided) brake housing on levers and brakes that have a plain 5mm bore, intended to take conventional spiral brake housing without a ferrule, such as many brifters and road calipers. You must use some kind of thick-ended ferrule with compressionless brake housing, or else the wires will pull through, same as using compressionless shift housing without a ferrule. Using them elsewhere, such as housing stops, is basically incorrect.

If you want more premium 5mm ferrules than the commonly encountered plated ones, a couple companies make them, Wheels Mfg and Jagwire for example.


Is it possible to move my rear derailleur so that it does not touch the chain?

This is because the chain is too long. You would shorten the chain to stop it touching the derailleur like this, but you also want to avoid this gear combination of the small chain ring and the small rear cog anyway; it is called cross-chaining and not desirable. In any other gear combination this problem will likely go away because the excess chain length is wrapped around larger cogs.

The only reason not to shorten the chain to the proper length is if it is only just long enough to fit around the big chainring and big rear cog as it is now. This would only come about if incompatible parts had been fitted to the bike, but I would check how slack the chain is (or isn't) in the big-big combo before shortening anything.

If the chain becomes too short there is a much bigger risk of damage by shifting to the wrong gear.


I want to use the bicycle for the 26-30mi commute that I do everyday and if it is a racing bike it could potentially save time

A trained cyclist can definitely ride farther and faster on a road bike than on a hybrid bike, based solely on wind resistance and bicycle fit. However, the speeds you list are completely unrealistic. Bike speeds are based primarily on the rider. Other major considerations include the route and the physical shape you want to arrive in.

A 30 mile commute means you are riding 15 miles in each direction. I know a lot of people who bicycle commute this distance every day. They are all in excellent physical shape and ride at least 2,000 miles a year. (3,218 kilometers)

Assuming:

A 15 mile route with few if any stops
A good road surface (paved, minimal bumps)
Few intersecting roads
Dry weather
Fairly flat ride

All of the commuters I know could easily finish the ride in less than 1 hour. (averaging over 15 mph). Many of them could average 18 mph for the entire ride. A few might be able to average 20 - 21 mph.

However, They will all arrive at their destination dripping sweat and need a shower and a change of clothing. If it rains, your average speed will go down significantly, since it just isn't safe to ride as fast on wet pavement.

So practically speaking, unless you are a highly trained athlete, doing 15 miles any faster than 20 - 21 mph is probably out of the question. Much more likely that you will do 15 - 18 mph. (And that's for a trained cyclist.) You then have to worry about cleaning up once you reach your office.

Getting one of the special bikes you mentioned will most likely slow you down, since they are designed for ultra high speeds with gearing that simply won't work in a city.


Which size SKS Bluemels will fit my frame - 35, 42, 45?

Choosing a maximum size for a given frame is not an exact science. It's done by either mounting or approximating the widest size tires you want to be able to run and then using a caliper or ruler to see what you've got to work with in terms of vertical and side to side clearance.
Your bike looks like it shouldn't have trouble with the 45mm. That's probably the number to choose, unless by some chance there's clearance for 50s.
Two things people often under-consider in the abstract:

7mm total overhang in width gets thrown around as a bare minimum, and you can see SKS follows this line, but it's really pushing it in practice. In addition to being barely adequate for spray, it makes preventing rub finicky in day to day use. How easy they are to live with is actually one of the bigger factors in choosing a width. A 28 in a 45 does not look funny or perform badly. It's actually great.
Wider means more wrap means the tire can be more sunk in means wider may function where narrower won't even if it's not needed for coverage, if vertical clearance is limited.


These are the alloy versions of the 'Sachs Huret' steel efforts of that period and I am familiar with the tension problems that can happen if you take them apart and put them back together again.

You undid the lower Allen key bolt, didn't you?

You need to take the little bolt on the side of the cage off, then undo the lower Allen bolt, swing the cage around approximately 180 degrees, tighten up the Allen bolt making sure the spring goes in, then pull the cage round approximately 180 degree, then pop the lower cage bolt back in.

Got it?

It can be done, don't go out an buy a new one, persevere.


What can cause headset bearings to become loose quickly?

A few months ago, I finally found the most likely reason for my problem: Instead of a star nut, this bike uses an expander plug under the top cap. This plug extends about 4mm above the end of the steerer tube, like this:

#########
|#######|
|#######|
|#######|

Where the # represent the plug, and the | is the steerer tube. I had the stem at the topmost position, and I suspect that it not only gripped the tube, but also the compression plug. Which in turn was loosened by vibration and the stem moved upwards with it, loosening the bearings.

I have since moved a spacer above the stem so that it does not touch the plug; this seems to have fixed the problem. The lower handlebar position is fine with me, and my problem hat not re-occurred for the last months despite riding some rough-ish trails.


Pretty much it doesn't matter - as long as the derailleur is comparable in brand and general "shape".  The derailleur doesn't really care how many gears you have!  The two things that have to be the same as (or compatible with) your old one:

Cable pull ratio - each "click" of your shifter pulls the cable a certain amount, and the derailleur has to move by the correct amount per click.  So - if it's a shimano, get a shimano, and you'll probably be OK.
Capacity - if your largest tooth cog in back is a 32-tooth, no way is a "short cage" derailleur going to handle it.  On the other hand if your largest in back is 23 tooth, a "long cage" would work but would look VERY SILLY

So, with several caveats to boot - as long as it's the same brand (or compatible), and approximately the same physical dimensions, it should be fine; 7, 8, 9 speed really doesn't matter.  Post a close-up photo of the broken derailleur where we can read the model numbers/etc. and see the thing, and we'll give you a link where you can buy a replacement from :)


Upgrading 8 speed Shimano 105 to 11 Speed Shimano 105

I'll definitely have to change my cassette

Shimano 11 speed road cassettes require wider freehub body. You have several options here:

Get a new rear wheel or hub that supports 11 speed road cassettes.
Get a replacement 11 speed freehub body if there are any (most likely not).
Get a Campy freehub body and Campy 11 speed cassette instead of 5800.
Get this Token cassette. It's an 11 speed road cassette that fits 10s freehub body.

  But what about my crankset? My current chain is 3/32 inches wide and my new chain would have to be narrower so what if it doesn't fit on my crankset? Is that possible?

11 speed chains are narrower on the outer side and same width inside. I'd first try to run older front shifter/derailleur/crankset and see if performance is acceptable. Also note that 5800 front shifter is compatible only with 5800/6800/9000 front derailleurs in case you are going that way.


Upgrade options for hybrid Scott Sub10 bars?

You should look at having the bike re-adjusted.

Your complaint,

  my body positioning tires me. I put a lot of my body weight forward, and as a result my arms and shoulders are tired at the end of the ride and my hands hurt.

Is indicative of a bike which is set up too long/too low.  It is possible that your body will adapt to the position, in time.

Changing to a drop bar, or adding bar ends in the dropped position will only make the bike longer and lower, which will exacerbate the problem you are complaining about.

In addition, the stock bars on the Sub 10 are a mountain bike rider style bar, with a width of about 24.5 inches.

Adding bar ends in a dropped position on that bar will also make your hand position exceptionally wide, which will affect the handling of the bike. In addition, it will put you in a riding position where you have no access to the brakes or shifters, which is unsafe.

You mentioned that the shop employee was reluctant to mention these bar ends. That is likely because he feels that they are inappropriate for your bike, and/or will not solve your problem. And I would agree.

I expect a solution would require a shorter stem and more rise on the bar, assuming the frame is the correct size.

It is impossible for us to say for sure though, because we can't see you on the bike.

Good Luck. :)


You need to adjust the derailleur B-screw. That adjusts the distance between the top jockey wheel and sprockets. Winding in the B-screw will move the jockey wheel away from the sprocket. The gap should be ~5mm.

See https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment. The last section deals with B-screw adjustment.

You are correct that you should not change the chain length.


For a one-off ride in the salt like that, you should be fine for now if you lube the chain and wipe it down. Give the bike a good washing whenever the weather warms up enough to turn on the outside spigot.

In my experience of riding through road salt (and grit, which is probably just as bad) on a regular basis, the bike tends to need a new chain every spring, and a new cassette and bearing overhauls about every second year or so.


Is this SRAM X-9 mech 10-speed compatible?

To quote a SRAM representative on the question of using 9 speed derailleur with 10 speed shifters:

MORGAN @ SRAM: For the rear, no. The cable pull is different for the 10-speed rear derailleurs and the 9-speed rear derailleurs won’t line up properly with the cogs when used with a 10-speed shifter and cassette. A 9-speed front derailleur will work, but it’s not optimized and may result in more chain drops or slower shifting -or no shifting at the extreme ends of the cassette- because the gap between plates is larger than what’s required for a 10-speed chain. The cage is also shorter if you’re viewing it from the side because it doesn’t have to work with as large of a chainring as what’s typically found on a triple.

So, you'll have to replace it.


Adding lower gears to a nine speed Ultegra road bike with triple ring

I’m not sure which version of an Ultegra derailleur you’ve got, but if it’s the 6500, it’s only rated for a 27-tooth cog and 37 teeth of wrap. You’re probably at 31 teeth of wrap.

It might be more productive to put on smaller chainrings. Depending on what she’s got now, that’ll get her an extra gear or two.


Full helmet (BMX) for Commuting, what is the current 2014 opinion?

Protection level is a personal preference matter.  You could just as well wear downhill style full body armor to commute and if you are willing to sacrifice the mobility and comfort for that extra level of protection, I'd say more power to you.  So my answer is you should wear whatever makes you feel more comfortable mentally.  The reality is it's all shades of grey.  If a one ton pickup hits you going 55 mph, there really isn't much you could be wearing that is going to do you any good.  I've been hit twice now commuting, but have stopped wearing any sort of helmet in the winter due to temperature control issues.  I value ease of temperature adjustment more than any feeling of safety I get from a helmet.

So much of cycling is personal preference that I have seen several folks in town wearing full face helmets on what is seemingly a commute, and it doesn't bother me any more or less than the brand of bicycle they are riding.

Edit:  I do not recommend wearing any less than the level of protection required by law in your area.  My jurisdiction has no such requirements.


Not brifters, but you can take your downtube shifters and use retroshift levers to get combined brake and and shifting. Essentially, they bolt a downtube shifter onto the hoods. Pretty cheap and reviews are generally positive.

As for fitting more gears, you may be able to get a 7 speed freewheel, but you may better off taking your 6 speed freewheel to the LBS and swapping it one with better spacing between the cogs.

Tires in 27" aren't too limited (Conti makes gatorskins in 27 inch, panaracer has some, etc.). But if you need to move to 700C, you need to make sure you can move your brakes down by 4 ish due to the 700c diameter change. The selection of new 27" wheels is more limited though (Sun CR-18, etc.), though can be found.


Can a hybrid bike seat be used on a road bike?

Your LBS's advice should be fairly solid.  Saddles have a denoted usage, but it is not a strict prescription.  For example, my road bike is fitted with a mountain saddle (a Serfas Tegu) and it keeps me quite comfortable for rides of around 4-hours.

Using a hybrid saddle on a road bike is perfectly suitable, however you may require a narrower saddle to accomodate the more aggressive riding position (see Should I use a narrower saddle on my roadbike than I would on my hybrid commuter?); however your LBS has likely taken this into consideration already.

If you are still experiencing discomfort, then you may need to try a different size or a different model.  Saddles are highly personalized options on the bike, so it may take a couple returns before you find the correct one.  The position of the saddle on the bike is another aspect of comfort.  Some riders prefer their saddles at a slight angle, while others prefer it to be level.

Keep in mind with any new saddle there is a break-in period.  Typically you should put several hours of riding time in before making a conclusion--unless it is very uncomfortable right away.

Also, are you wearing padded shorts?  Padded shorts add a huge amount of comfort--moreso than more heavily padded saddles.  Typically you are better off with a good pair of padded shorts and a fairly firm saddle than you would be with "regular" clothes and a very cushioned saddle.

If you have any concerns go back to your LBS and try to find out who their saddle guru is.  Try to describe the discomfort you're having (e.g. are your legs going numb, do the insides of your sitbones quickly become sore, etc).  They may adjust the position of your saddle or swap the saddle entirely.


Lock to fit around Big Apple tyres (28x2.35)

I'd guess the big apple will make it tight depending on what you lock to.

Certainly the long shackle variants or standard shackle variants will fit around this. I have a Kryptonite New York Lock in a long shackle variant can fit around pretty much anything.

When you get the bike, you can easily measure the width the lock needs to have along with the length of the shackle to lock around what you need to lock to. I carry one New York Lock Long Shackle and 1 Fahgettaboutit so that I can lock in tighter places (and lock both the front and rear wheels with U-locks). I'd think even if the mini isn't suitable for locking ot something, it would be good to lock a wheel to the frame (and use another U-lock to catch the other wheel and whatever you need to lock to).


What is happening is that you have enough force in your hand to move the whole mechanism towards one direction overcoming the failure point, but the spring in the derailleur doesn't have the required force. As you pedal (and ride) vibration helps momentarily reducing friction and allowing the spring to pull back, so it finally shifts.

The most common cause of this issue is rust between the cable and the cable housing. There are also a few other closely related:

Dirt can accumulate inside the cable housing.
The lubricant used on the cable (if any) gets clogged or dries up, also catching dirt.
The lining of the cable housing or inner of the housing itself has
degraded due to wear.
The cable is deformed or frayed inside the housing.

All of the previous are cable related and can be easily diagnosed by disassembling the cable, pulling it out of the housing and visually check the cable. It should look even, without rust and without any permanent sharp bends, i.e. if left hanging it should hang straight or barely and smoothly curved. Also you should be able to pull and push cable in and out of the housing wit almost zero effort (no "perceptible" friction).

The easy way to fix is to replace the cable and the housing. If this is not an option you can clean the cable, try to unbend it, lubricate and reassembly. Frayed cable can be reused by removing the hole strand of wire up to the head of the cable. The cable can survive with one or two strands out. But all these are temporary remedies only, you will quickly observe the symptoms again, specially with frayed cable, chances are it will fray more. Very old cable or too rusted is better not to attempt any of these solutions as they wont last enough to be worthy.

Also remember to clean the housing internally. This can be achieved pouring rust remover or fine oil inside the housing and hope it will get out by the other end dragging the dirt and debris out. This can be messy and time consuming.  If you can blow through it with an air compressor, it may help if the problem is just trapped dirt.

But then again, these are temporary solutions,as most of the time, the housing will be damaged on the inside, due to wear, and this causes rough spots that easily trap more dirt or simply cause friction, so the whole system wont perform as good as with simple brand new cable.

A badly installed cable can also be the cause. Check the hole travel of the cable looking for sharp turns, or the cable being pulled against parts of the frame or components or accessories where it is not supposed to.

If all the previous is verified and corrected as needed but the problem persists, the derailleur itself must be checked. Here the most common causes can be:

Too much dirt trapped among derailleur's linkages
The derailleur is badly bent or otherwise has lost its shape.
There is rust in the pivots
weakened spring due to rust, deformation or excessive wear, or even misplaced spring

All these can be diagnosed for sure with close and careful visual inspection under good light. Nevertheless to be sure you can disconnect the cable, remove the chain and carefully move the derailleur along its designed travel. You should feel clear resistance from the spring and the mechanism should quickly return on itself when you release it. If it presents lag in the return, re-check the above.

The obvious solutions are clean the derailleur and lubricate it's pivots. In case of a misplaced spring, it can be relocated using long fine nose pliers, just be careful. If the spring is too damaged, maybe is better to change the derailleur or try to find a spare spring somewhere, if it's free, better.

If the derailleur is bend or otherwise deformed, you better get another one. Almost only steel ones can be rectified but it is rather difficult and time consuming, it's not worthy most of the time since steel derailleurs tend to be cheap.

Do not forget to inspect and test the shifter lever. The easy way is to disconnect the cable from the derailleur and while gently pulling it outwards the housing, actuate the lever back and forth. The cable should move accordingly. If the shifter is the indexed type, the cable movement should be crisp and without lag. Generally, the lever just needs some lubrication. I do not recommend dis assembly of indexed shifter levers as many are rather complex.

When you finish reassembling the system most sure you'll need to adjust derailleur properly. Sure you'll find lots of methods/tutorials in the cloud or in other questions posted on this site.

If any of the above help you diagnose the problem better take your bike to a local shop.


Uncut steerer tubes too short for 21" Frames

When I have had this problem I have paid to have extensions welded on to the tube. The welding must be done in a lathe, or a proper rotating pipe welding jig, so it's not a DIY project. Or look for a fork with a removable steerer tube and fit a longer one.

One advantage you have here is that many (most?) steerer tubes are still steel, so it's usually possible to weld them without destroying them. In my case I've used fairly cheap forks, so even if one gets trashed during the process I'm only out $100 or so. Also, with a little work you end up with a tube stronger than the original because you can sleeve a second tube inside the original and weld that at the fork crown too. Or if it's a tight fit, just leave it there.

For my bikes there steerer lengths required have been unreasonable (in the worse case, about two metres for a tall bike), so there was never a question of being able to find one pre-made.


What are some Routes to riding from Los Angeles to San fransisco?

Friends who have ridden the coast from Vancouver, Canada to the Mexican border used Adventure Cycling Association maps for the route. ACA has a series of maps that cover the route.

The ACA description of the terrain for LA to SF matches what I heard from my friends: lots of climbing.

  TERRAIN

  This route segment is generally hilly, with lots of ups and
  downs following the coastline in the northern part of the state. Some
  sections in the southern part of the route are rolling to flat,
  especially along the various cities' bike paths along the beaches.

From what I heard about the ride, it was tough enough with (multi-geared) road bikes. I suppose, theoretically, it could be done on a fixie.

If you look around the Web, there are many sources of bicycle route maps. California Bicycle Coalition is one such example. I have the SLO County map which they link to, and it's an excellent map. Don't miss Turri Road when you go through there.

There are also many threads over at BF regarding this trip:

San Francisco To Los Angeles thread;

Advice for Los Angeles to San Francisco thread;

Considering Riding From Los Angeles To San Francisco thread.

Just to provide a few. Lots of experienced answers in those BF threads...


Multi-city bike rental in Europe (NL, BE)

I didn't think this was possible, but Google came up with this site (in Dutch) https://www.fietsverhuur.nl

Apparently they deliver rental bikes in Belgium, The Netherlands, Germany and Luxemburg. I assume they can also arrange a pickup at a different location, if the price is right .

It isn't clear if this is just for groups, but you could contact them if you want.


What do I need to get to upgrade 10 speed Campagnolo to 11 speed for a bike to be used on a trainer only?

The simple, cheap way to do this using an off-the-shelf product is buy a 10-speed Campy to HG conversion cassette. Various options for this have existed over time; the only one I can see now is an IRD 11-32, which would work if you used the low limit to lock out whatever cogs on it the RD can't clear or that you don't have the chain length for. This is probably the way to go if you can stand the gearing jumps being larger than you're used to.
There is no technical reason why spacers for fully interchangeable/customizable cassette systems such as the Miche one couldn't be made to do this, and if they did exist then that would probably be the cheapest. I don't think they exist commercially, though. It may be possible to make your own with off-the-shelf spacers and microshims, once you figured out what the thickness needed to be.
To make the bike 11-speed, the answer is the chain and right shifter for sure, the front derailleur if you want good front shifting and minimal chance of chain drop, and then potentially the rear derailleur. The RD actuation ratio between Campy 10 and 11 didn't change but the capacity and large cog clearance numbers did in some cases, and you haven't told us your cassette range. If you then put a Campy 11 cassette on the wheel too, drop-in wheel interchangeability probably won't work between your Campy wheel and your trainer if you do this with its existing cassette unless you space out whichever is more inboard, at which point drop-in interchangeability won't work between various wheels if it's the wheel cassette that needs spacing, or between the trainer and different bikes if it's the trainer cassette.
To my awareness there's no right Ergo you can buy here that doesn't leave you with a tactile mismatch. 11-speed index rings that fit into your right shifter were never released.


Stock 10 Speed Shifters with 9 Speed Transmission

Not entirely surprised you have problems refer here...

According to this link, Cable Pull for a Campy 10 shifter is 2.8mm, dérailleur ratio for a Campy is 1.5 (or 1.4 for old) Cassette sprocket pitch for SRam 9 is 4.35.

So a single shift on the the 10speed is 2.8*1.5 = 4.2mm (ideal is 4.35). Over a 9 speeds that an error of 1.35mm, so when tuning, you will end up with about 0.7mm error on the outer cogs - i.e. it will never be able to be tuned perfectly, but when everything is new and shiny, will work surprisingly well. As things get less new and shiny, this error means tuning become more and more difficult.

The fix would be installed a Campy 9 speed shifter or a 10 Speed cassette and chain.

Edit: Another page on compatibility here lead me to
This adapter (Shiftmate) or similar might be the answer you are looking for. They specifically list a Campy 10 shifter to Shimno 9 (Sram and Shitmano 9 speed are the same).


Will electric heaters degrade bicycle tires?

It depends on a lot of hows including (but not limited to) close, hot, long, and manufactured.

Most well manufactured tires that are mounted and aired up will mostly suffer from air loss.  As the tire and tube heats up, the pressure rises and the tendency to leak a bit of pressure over time will be exaggerated.  Tubeless setups utilizing juice may see that juice evaporate/dissipate quicker.  Tire/tube setups that were recently inflated to max pressures in much colder environments may actually blow out (happened one time when I left a wheel in front of a sunny window).

If you are talking about storing your bike along side a baseboard heater or similar, you are probably going to be ok short of actually leaning the tires directly against the heat source.