<p>There is no easy way I'm aware of. It's really important when shooting a timelapse to use fixed manual exposure so that you get consistent exposure from shot to shot.  It's a non-trivial task to get color to match from one image to the next if exposure doesn't match because you have to worry about not only the black point (darkest point) and white point (brightest point) but also the gamma or rate of change of colors in between.  </p>

<p>Additionally the actual light level may have changed while shooting and you don't want to cancel this out.  Also, depending on how you had the camera set, it is also possible the white balance may have been changed which would further complicate things.</p>

<p>If it is really, really far off, you could try doing a batch auto-level or auto-curves operation on all of the images in Photoshop and see if that gets a usable look or not, but if the exposure was calculated differently by the camera, then most likely the result from the auto-level and auto-curves will also differ.</p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-01T16:13:24.030Z
Yes, I used fixed manual exposure, all sequences were done in studio using flash units. For some reason there are some differences in some parts of the sequence so I guess maybe there was a problem with the current. The easy way, or less hard way, I believe, is using Lightroom to make these small adjustments. Anyway, thank you for your reply.
Nicoli
CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-01T16:21:03.997Z
@Nicoli - if they were manual exposures, then you might actually get improved results from using a batch operation to do Auto-levels in Photoshop, though you may still have gamma problems if the mix of light actually changed between ambient and flash due to the level of flash power changing.
AJ Henderson
CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-01T03:12:58.533Z
2014-04-01T03:12:58.533Z
AJ Henderson
<p>I have created some time lapse animations using my Canon EOS camera.</p>

<p>When I imported these sequences to premiere I noted small changes in luminosity between some frames.</p>

<p>Is there any way to correct these changes inside premiere? Maybe something similar to camera stabilization but for luminosity? </p>

CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-02T22:48:31.750Z
possible duplicate of [Correcting exposure flickering in time-lapse footage (in After Effects)](http://video.stackexchange.com/questions/3406/correcting-exposure-flickering-in-time-lapse-footage-in-after-effects)
Saaru Lindestøkke
CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-02T22:48:48.340Z
Also relevant: http://video.stackexchange.com/questions/5537/repairing-brightness-problems-caused-by-auto-lighting-optimizer/5538#5538
Saaru Lindestøkke
CC BY-SA 3.0
2014-04-05T11:47:38.867Z
To help in the future, you said in comments below you used manual exposure. The flicking is coming both from variation in the light source itself (sun passing through clouds/dust in atmosphere), but also the aperture of the lens. Set your aperture, and whilst holding the "Aperture Preview" button on your camera, unscrew the lens, as if changing it - about 15 degrees is enough. The lens can't communicate with the camera, and the aperture is stuck in the correct, unchanging position.
nchpmn
<premiere><time-lapse>
How can I fix time-lapse image sequence exposure in Premiere?
Nicoli
# How can I fix time-lapse image sequence exposure in Premiere?

(Asked by: username_0 on 2014-03-31)

I have created some time lapse animations using my Canon EOS camera.

When I imported these sequences to premiere I noted small changes in luminosity between some frames.

Is there any way to correct these changes inside premiere? Maybe something similar to camera stabilization but for luminosity?

**Tags:** premiere, time-lapse

> **Comments:**
> **username_1**: possible duplicate of [Correcting exposure flickering in time-lapse footage (in After Effects)](http://video.stackexchange.com/questions/3406/correcting-exposure-flickering-in-time-lapse-footage-in-after-effects)  
> **username_1**: Also relevant: http://video.stackexchange.com/questions/5537/repairing-brightness-problems-caused-by-auto-lighting-optimizer/5538#5538  
> **username_2**: To help in the future, you said in comments below you used manual exposure. The flicking is coming both from variation in the light source itself (sun passing through clouds/dust in atmosphere), but also the aperture of the lens. Set your aperture, and whilst holding the "Aperture Preview" button on your camera, unscrew the lens, as if changing it - about 15 degrees is enough. The lens can't communicate with the camera, and the aperture is stuck in the correct, unchanging position.  

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## 1 answers

### Answer by username_3 on 2014-04-01. Score: 2

There is no easy way I'm aware of. It's really important when shooting a timelapse to use fixed manual exposure so that you get consistent exposure from shot to shot. It's a non-trivial task to get color to match from one image to the next if exposure doesn't match because you have to worry about not only the black point (darkest point) and white point (brightest point) but also the gamma or rate of change of colors in between.

Additionally the actual light level may have changed while shooting and you don't want to cancel this out. Also, depending on how you had the camera set, it is also possible the white balance may have been changed which would further complicate things.

If it is really, really far off, you could try doing a batch auto-level or auto-curves operation on all of the images in Photoshop and see if that gets a usable look or not, but if the exposure was calculated differently by the camera, then most likely the result from the auto-level and auto-curves will also differ.

> **Comments:**
> **username_0**: Yes, I used fixed manual exposure, all sequences were done in studio using flash units. For some reason there are some differences in some parts of the sequence so I guess maybe there was a problem with the current. The easy way, or less hard way, I believe, is using Lightroom to make these small adjustments. Anyway, thank you for your reply.  
> **username_3**: @username_0 - if they were manual exposures, then you might actually get improved results from using a batch operation to do Auto-levels in Photoshop, though you may still have gamma problems if the mix of light actually changed between ambient and flash due to the level of flash power changing.  

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