Dogs/airedale_breeders_hand_book_1916.md

709 "Berthel, Robert L., s"

Airedale Breeders'

Hand Book

A drawing of a basket filled with flowers. LC

COPYRIGHTED, 1916  SF429 A6B5

$1.00

©DA455289 JAN 25 1917 no. 1  The Author.  A blank page with a light beige background.  INDEX TO CHAPTERS

Chapter 1. Origin and Adaptability ..... 9 Chapter 2. Three kinds are being bred ..... 15 Chapter 3. Buying ..... 19 Chapter 4. Feeding ..... 23 Chapter 5. The Stud Dog ..... 27 Chapter 6. The Brood Bitch ..... 31 Chapter 7. Right Mating ..... 38 Chapter 8. Raising Puppies ..... 43 Chapter 9. Breeding ..... 50 Chapter 10. Kenneling ..... 59 Chapter 11. Diseases ..... 65 Chapter 12. Color and Other Points ..... 75 Chapter 13. Showing ..... 78 Chapter 14. Selling and Shipping ..... 84 Chapter 15. Advertising ..... 88 Chapter 16. Miscellaneous ..... 91

INDEX TO SUBJECTS IN BACK OF BOOK  To My Mother

whose constant aid: unceasing care and interest together with advice and encouragement during the years that we have been handling and breeding the Airedale: thus making this work possible, are these efforts reverently and affectionately dedicated.

The Author.  Introductory

This book is written at the suggestion of friends of the author and admirers of the Airedale; to meet a demand for information of a practical nature; and in such form that it can be had on any subject, connected with the Airedale, with as little effort as possible.

In writing, we have endeavored to use every day expressions, to be as plain and explicit as possible and to state facts just as we have found them after years of experience. In this writing we have tried to be honest; we have guessed at nothing, but have tried to touch upon the different subjects as concisely as possible, and have written without fear or favor. We have not intended to injure any one in any way, our years of sportsmanship would forbid that, and if what is herein contained, will aid any one to avoid the pitfalls that the author has encountered, he must have in caring for and enjoying man's best friend (of any breed); and if he desires to possess with the most marvelous variety of the canine race that has yet been produced: will add in any way to the welfare and improvement of this breed; or add one iota to the betterment of the doggy game in any particular, then will we feel fully compensated for the effort.  3  CHAPTER I. ORIGIN AND ADAPTABILITY

A bout the middle of the nineteenth century, among a sporty class of English, there sprang up a demand for a dog that could "do anything that any other dog could do," and which would be useful in all seasons. Such several varieties were used—Collies, Bull Terriers, Irish Water Spaniels, Setters, Bedlington Terriers and perhaps other breeds of medium size. The breeders made up and there is no cold blood in them as long as their origin.

When first produced they were called "Water-sides Terriers," and were used for many purposes, including poaching. When used for poaching, they were called "poachers' dogs." This is why some of the ones first brought to America did not give tongue when running a trail.

In the early days of production a prominent Lord took them up, sought to make them more game, a better water dog and to improve their nose and hunting quality.

The Airedale was used. A noble fellow this, he can handle the ordeal of trails to the coldest water and kill Mr. Otter when he finds him.

The foundation for the Airedale is the Otter Hound, while many other breeds have played a minor part.

He originated in the valley (dale) of the Ayre River and obtains his name from that section.

The Airedales resemble the Otter Hounds are muzzled at night to prevent fighting. They have very pleasant dispositions usually, but when they get started fighting are extremely fierce and vicious. They are very good watchdogs.

Those who first produced Airedales were miners and workmen of similar class, whose chief sports were beer drinking, hunting various kinds of game, showing and fighting their dogs and themselves.

To these sporty fellows must be given the credit for making the great variety of breeds of dogs that has yet been perfected. He is rightly called the "ancestor of dogs" and is surely the most cosmopolitan of them all. He is at home in guarding the parlors of a mansion; escorting mi-lady on the street, for a stroll  10 THE AIREDALE

in the country, a horse-back jaunt or in the limousine. As some one has said, "he is there all in a bunch." Equally so is he at home in the humblest hut and guards his master and his master's belongings with the same ardor whether he be fed with the best of foods plentifully, or is kept on short rations. Usually they are rather fat than thin.

As a companion, guard and protector for children, he has no equal and many of the stories that could be told of how he has saved and protected them would be worth telling. He has superior judgement. A good airedale can act while the average person is thinking. He never tires of entertaining his charges and he has the power to protect them from danger. The punishment from the child he is protecting, without harming it, when he known him to protect the child from its own parent, when he thought the parent was going to do the youngster harm.

Many people think that an airedale is a dog who glances just tell what the mental condition of their master is, and many will do something to amuse the master when he feels a bit "blue," and he finds himself in a situation where he must play with children positions predominate and they are usually ready for a romp or play. Among themselves they are the roughest of players and appear to enjoy roughing up each other without "squashing." The exercise taken in this way, keeps them in condition for hunting and other tasks while other breeds would be soft.

As a hunter and fighter of big game he has no equal; and since many of the first ones brought to the States were largely used for this purpose, many persons think that they are good for the one use only. In fact, they are fast running and have great right; they are equally as good for any other purpose to which a dog of this size can adapt itself.

While they have them an excellent nose and can locate a very old track, they are not so good at trailing as the well trained hound. They are too fast and run over the trail. They want the name and scent of the animal that they are after, but have been that they will run away from the hounds. That is if those used are of the type that have speed. When the game is overtaken it means that it is going to be killed or treed, and in very short order.  THE AIREDALE

A woman standing in a doorway, looking out into a room.

Companions.

On small game they can be fully as valuable. We have had a number of them to point quail naturally and their speed and agility when after a winged quail is marvelous. As a retriever from land or water they have no superior.

They are very useful in the field and will not quit when the weather is hot and the task hard and hazardous. Out on the poultry ranch they are also at home. We have seen them distinguish a strange smell from that of their own and chase it away. They help in all fights and aid in many ways in handling poultry. Vill kill the mice and rats that infest the feed house and all skunks and ma- rauders are sure to meet death.

In the city they are used in manufacturing plants; as police dogs; in the war, carrying messages, hunting and aiding the wounded and by their superior scenting and hearing, assisting the sentry, they have been invaluable. Major Richardson, the highest authority on war dogs, says an Airedale can hear three hundred yards further than the average person.  12 THE AIREDALE

Out with the Sergeant. (Police).  THE AIREDALE 13

By his aristocratic bearing a good Airedale will command attention and respect anywhere and give distinction to his fortunate owner.

While most of them will meet friendly advances, except under conditions that would jeopardize them or their master's interests, they recognize but one master at a time and are called "a one man dog."

Superior judgement, self control, intensity of purpose, determination, ingenuity, strength and agility are what enables a good specimen of the breed to acquire these accomplishments and to be of value to its owner.

While the writer has had some twenty five years of experience in breeding and training dogs of several breeds, our opinion of the Airedale, after many years of breeding, showing, hunting and otherwise educating them, is summed up in the following words:

We would not give a good Airedale for a field full of any other variety of dog. We have seen many Airedales bred by many different hands. The Airedale is not afad, he has not only made good, he has done much more. He has shown us. He has done many things that we never thought a dog could do. He has proven that he can more than pay his way if his master will handle him rightly and let him have an opportunity to pay for his keep and splendid interest on the investment made in his purchase. In short, the Airedale, who was yet young when he came here and whose ancestors few years will be seen every where; will be much better understood and the good ones will be even greater value to their proud owners.

Some one has written—and well written—that if all other varieties were extinct the Airedale would replace each of them. If you, Mr. Reader, do not think this is true, get a good one and he will prove it.

By no means do we mean to cast any reflection on any other breeds, many good ones there are, but after close intimacy, our hat is off to the noblest and trust of them all, the sturdy one from Yorkshire.  14 THE AIREDALE

By Born Defiance and "Tom".

In the above cut is shown the young Airedale Hy-Born Defiance and his "pal," the white cat. Two years ago when Mr. F. D. Maginnis, So. Dos Palos, Cal., purchased the dog, then a puppy of two months, the cat took an interest in him and the puppy slept with him for some two months and never seemed to forget the kindness he had received. The cat would go out o' nights and return the next morning, badly disfigured the dog would take him between his paws and thoroughly dress his wounds, not quitting till "Tom" was as white and clean as he could be gotten. Tom soon learned to hunt up his friend, when he had "rest for the evening," and would lie patiently while he was being put in condition.

Hy-Born Defiance was recently killed by a train and the loss was very keenly felt, as he had many other accomplishments.  CHAPTER II. THREE KINDS ARE BEING BRED

Through his love for work, his wonderful achievements and other noble traits, the Airedale has reached his present popularity. It is characteristic that man has the most popular at the most of the present day show, and not the trait he has won.

The Show Type

This is the class that represents large investments, brings long prices and great pleasure when you succeed in getting a "topper." Notwithstanding we frequently have persons say they have a perfect Airedale, as a matter of fact the perfect one has not yet been born. The breeder who can produce a dog that is able to furnish one very close to the standard has a snug little fortune in sight. One that so closely approaches the standard as to be able to win at all shows is worth more than one that is not, worth into the thousands.

There are two ways of owning these. The shorter way is to buy a dog that is of sufficient length. This does not mean that you will be able to reproduce what you have bought. There are many persons in the business who gain a great deal of distinction by this method.

There are others who do not know what to do with them after they have gotten hold of them and the dogs soon begin to "go down hill" and the owner becomes discouraged and some shrewd doggy fellows take advantage of him.

The longer route to obtain a "topper" is to breed it. This takes time, knowledge, thought, judgement, often the ability to withstand disappointment, and perseverance. Sometimes it takes more of all these.

What is your reward? First come the pleasure from an initi- mate acquaintance with your dog, and then the enjoyment of their fidelity and affection. A great deal of recreation is had from handling and working them and very much, if you are lucky, you may also come to the madding that you have given so much thought, th' cost of which you find for next six months. Then one morning you hear some crying in the kennel and you go  16 THE AIREDALE

out and look the younger over and probably decide that they look good. Then comes the pleasure of growing them properly and lastly learning to train them. The pleasure of their appearance and proper care and attention has been given you are sure to have something of value, though you may not always get "flyers." When you have a dog that is well bred, he will have a distinction and reputation that come in no other way. Certainly the pleasure is very great or you would not have undertaken the task. It appears to me a general rule, at least with me, to breed this type, to keep the blood line pure, "nuck" or make up for some faults in the individuals to be mated, disregarding utility features. Owners send their bitches to the dog that has done a lot of winning and is before the public, but I do not think this is all folly. Another chapter will deal more carefully on this subject.

The Show and Utility Type

The Airedale is a worker, that is what he was made for. He should have brains, that is what has made him. If he is bred purely for show purposes, he will not be a good worker. For show purposes, without regard to his other qualities, can he retain the reputation he now possesses? He should have quality--and then more quality--but the writer is most firmly of the opinion that the Airedale should possess quality and utility proper-ties to the highest degree.

When one undertakes to breed the "all round good Airedale," he finds it difficult to secure a dog that possesses all these qualities. It is fortunate in securing his breeders from one who made a success along these lines, and who is entirely honest with his clientele. By all means let us select those dogs which are first class in gameness, intelligence, in Terrier Quality and better in show points than most of them. Eliminate the first four qualities and the last will be much easier, but in our opinion they would not be Airedales.

True you may not be able to reap honor in the show ring as quickly, but when you see your dogs producing something there, then and will always be a demand for them. If you do not always get a flyer or two from each litter, you will get something that will give you pleasure and entertainment, by his wonderful accomplishments and when a topper is present among these lines, one has succeeded much beyond what he has been able to show.  THE AIREDALE 17

points only. The demand is constantly increasing for Airedales with working ability and one need not lose money if his efforts to produce the worker with quality, even though he does not have the occasional high priced showman for sale. Other chapters will deal fully with this subject.

A Hip-harvard The Hip-harvard Type

Airedales of this type just happened-so. They are produced in several ways. Some fellow has his own "an Airedale." He finds some other fellow who has a bitch that should have been consigned to the bucket at birth, and who informs him that he has a very good chance of getting a good pup. The fellow takes the bitch, and immediately the first mentioned fellow is the proud possessor of "an Airedale." When time comes for mating her he goes around  18 THE AIREDALE

and finds some dog that he can breed to for nothing, neither owner knowing anything about a proper mating, and in a short time there is "a fine (?) litter of Airedales for sale." Some go even farther than this. We know of an instance where a breeder with a reputation wanted to purchase a bitch. He put out a well-bred bitch, had her mated to a dog of proven blood lines and shipped to him. He was not pleased with the bitch, she did not come up to his standard, yet he hunted her down every morning to have her bred again. They were unsatisfactory and the breeder sold the best of them for workers and without pedigree and at very reasonable prices. In due time two bitches were brought to him by a friend. Both were endeavoring to avoid paying stud fees. One of these bitches had a bunch of puppies that were sold as being of the strain of the breeders, but they were all black and tan. The other was sold because they were black and tan. Neither the owner of the sire or dam having sufficient knowledge of breeding to know what strain they belonged to, they were sold. This is exemplified by some kennel owners who bred from convenience, irrespective of the important qualities of sire or dam.

In writing on this subject we are not trying to cast any reflections on any one person, but we are endeavoring to tell facts as we see them, others are fully as entitled to their respective views. However in writing a book, if the author has no views and ideas to express, what is the value of the book?  CHAPTER III. BUYING

The first consideration for any buyer is what he wants. That is, he should have an object—a purpose—and not buy for the mere pleasure of the owner.

It is usually most satisfactory to both buyer and seller for the buyer to personally select the dog, however this is not always convenient. Even the beginner can make the selection that su to him by taking his time and making a careful examination. He also learn something by the call. If he is not advised he should take into his confidence a friend and get his aid in making a selection of either the dog or the breeder from whom to buy. In doing this, it should be borne in mind that not infrequently his friend may have

Airedale intended to represent an ideal show specimen that many are now trying for.

Model of an Airedale intended to represent an ideal show specimen that many are now trying for.  20 THE AIREDALE

an axe to grind himself, in the way of a commission, or similar interest. This also holds good in having parties look the new purchase over. Buying at a show is not to be advised. It should also be in mind that even an experienced breeder may be mistaken in dogs with which he is not familiar and would only discover faults when they are brought into his own home residence. We clip the following from a recent issue of the Field and Fancy. "It is not safe to buy "bargains" in dogs or to assume that the breeder has any special knowledge of the breed he offers, rather than under rates it. The more remarkable the apparent bargain the more dubious it becomes, for perfection is not compati- ble with cheapness. The dog who is well-made, but has no merit, has his cheapness to recommend them. The dog which, though of markedly superior appearance, is offered at a very low price pro- bably has some serious defect which will soon become manifest defect that time alone will show. Really good and well bred dogs are always scarce; and to get a good dog one must ordinarily pay a good price. The better the dog the higher the price; the less good the dog the lower the price. And if, instead of getting the best stock, must not, when dealing with a reputable breeder, try to beat him down too much in price. Nor is it reason- able to expect that a dog which has been sold on a high proval, as if refused, the double railway journey may upset them seriously. If you can not trust his word, it is wise not to do business with him. A dog which has been bought by a disre- sted stock from an experienced breeder with a character to lose." Sometimes a reputable breeder may have reason for offering something which is not quite up to his usual standard. Also, a breeder who is familiar with a number of the ancestors, can have a better idea of what a puppy will probably become than can any other man. So, when it narrows down to the reputable breeder and his knowledge of his own stock. If you wished to buy a cow, you would decide between the varieties that are noted for the purpose for which the cow is wanted. He might choose a cow that was capable of producing milk from saddlers. One cow may carry a carload of milk during the year, and be worth many thousands of dollars. Another of the same variety may be bought for fifty dollars—and not be a bargain at that. The same is true in Airedales.  THE AIREDALE 21

Another point to be taken in consideration in making a purchase, is the assistance and knowledge that the seller may be able and willing to give you. A desirable breeder will usually go to the trouble of showing you all the things that he has learned about many little things about the dog purchased, and the breed in general, that in itself, will be worth as much as the price paid for the dog.

We would advise only the experienced to try to import and only then from those known to be reliable.

Do not expect perfection. Your first purchase does not come up to your requirements, try again.

The Airedale has the reputation of recognizing only one owner at a time. The best way to get him is to remove the new arrival from the shipping crate and be the first new acquaintance. If he is made of the right stuff he is looking for a master and pal, as soon as he is taken out of the crate, he will put on his best behavior. He will drink much cold water, to chill him, then a little soup or light food. After a little exercise, more food.

The Airedale's crate should be done as quietly as possible. First, speak to him in a friendly, quiet way, calling his name: then caress him a little and gradually get o' good terms with him. He will not like being handled too much at first. If he does not like it, he will not be able to escape. It might be that he has been badly mistreated on his journey and is still frightened from this, and try to make him feel safe by speaking to him gently. Get a little exercise and probably he will come to you without being called. If he is frightened go easy with him until he comes to himself. Give him a warm, comfortable place to sleep and a few days rest before you start him on any strenuous work. Don't wash a dog, especially a puppy, on arrival, if his coat is foul, dust pullers earth into it thoroughly and brush it out. If his feet are tender, apply a little vaseline or some other similar applied. Don't rush him out to show to your friends, you will have plenty of time for this after he has gotten used to his new home.

If the dog, on arrival, is not what you want, receive him and promptly advise the shipper. Do not leave him crated up and with the transportation company. This is a great injury to the dog, is inhumane and nothing can be gained by it.  22 THE AIREDALE

We might add, that it is customary for the purchaser to remit the amount in bank exchange, or equivalent, with his order. The reason is, to avoid the probable expense of shipping and usually stands the risk of having the money returned to him. He should not be asked to ship C.O.D. and probably will not do so. Nor should he be asked to ship on a personal check, unless the buyer has a good standing with the banker who writes a large one, the buyer can possibly arrange to have the money deposited in a bank, to be paid to the seller, upon arrival and acceptance of the bill of lading, and then the buyer may return the money to be returned to the buyer, less expressage both ways.

Or, if the buyer is at all afraid to risk this sum with the seller, after he has received it, he should first write to his banker repre- sented, then he can ask the seller to give him the privilege of writing the seller's banker, or other reference.

The best way is to select your breeder, tell what you want and what purpose you wish the dog for, agree on the price, send the order and enclose a check for any difference if, it can then be taken up with the seller.

In all cases, unless there is a special agreement, the dog becomes the property of the buyer when he is delivered to the transporta- tion carrier or transportation carrier for the buyer, and is responsible to him for safe delivery.

This chapter would not be complete without mention of what are called "bitch dogs." There are many of these in one dog. If the writer was going to reduce his kennel to one dog, that would be a bitch. We have heard the most prominent dog men in the country say that they had never seen such a thing as a bitch of the average owner of a bitch of any kind, to take the proper care of her, when in use, is mostly the cause of so many persons wanting to buy a bitch dog. They are very fond of them and think them well. She is more easily taught, has less things to divert her attention, is much nicer to take out on the street or elsewhere and twenty- times as nice as a boy or girl puppy, than in a dog puppy. Our customer on the brood bitch says she does not know how to handle and care for them. Some breeders, the writer among them, will not sell their best bitch puppies, that are bred to suit them, they either keep or raise litters from them; or they have proven to be not what they expected.  CHAPTER IV. FEEDING

Airedales with whom the writer has been familiar are light eaters. Where only one or two are to be fed it is an easy task, if one has table scraps. They will do nicely on these, fed two or three times daily, but they will not thrive on them alone. They upset the digestion and some consider it poison to any dog. No dog can digest chicken bones and we have known death to result from feeding them to dogs. Some authorities advise feeding potatoes and other such items.

Where a dog is gradually taught to eat most anything, he can do so and many will thrive on all kinds of food. This can not be done by an abrupt change in diet.

We do not believe in making a toy out of an Airedale and trying to be too careful in feeding. Don't treat him like a child (though he may be better than many of them,) but like a real good dog, and see that he keeps a dog's place.

As the subject of feeding puppies is fully covered in another chapter, we will here assume that the dog to be fed is six months or so of age.

When the feeding of one or two dogs is of little moment, the feeding of a kennel becomes quite an item and must be figured closely or a decided drain will take place.

From the point of economy, health, condition and convenience, we have found the following method satisfactory.

Let the dogs have some exercise late in the afternoon, the more the better, and feed as late as convenient in the evening, their principal meal.

We secure meat scraps from the butchers, bones included, place them in the cooking vessel, add sufficient salt and a little red pepper and cook until tender. The broth is then strained off and kept hot enough to cover and when well cooked sufficient water is added to make the desired quantity of broth. Occasionally some vegetables are added to this mixture. We find that it is best to feed some raw meat first, after the regular meal. Different individuals must be fed differently. Make the food suit the dog and not the dog to suit the food. Each should be fed what he will consume in a  24 THE AIREDALE

few moments. Some times they will eat only a small quantity and finish up a few minutes later but what is left uneaten should be removed from the kennel after 30 minutes. A good exampley meal, take one pint of bran, one-third pint of middlings and one-half pint of rolled oats. Place these in the feed pan and pour a sufficient amount of water over them to make a thin porridge. Do not make it sloppy—but so that it will crumble or stand up. Add to this such quantity of the cooked meat and bones as each individual dog requires.

The rolled oats used are the ordinary table oats and are bought in 90 pound sacks. They are steamed in process of manufacture and have no artificial cooking. The bran and middles are also fed without any cooking.

The quantity of each used is adjusted to suit each dog, feeding which will climb up to two pounds per day or one or two times a day according to the size of the dog. Bread is sometimes cooked of bran, middles and corn meal, seasoned with salt and some grease from the fat meat scraps. The bread is sometimes made into a paste by adding a little water and stirring over it. Again we feed the ordinary dog biscuit, either dry or moistened.

At times a pan of broth alone is given. Butter-milk is obtained occasionally and is very good for the dogs' health. At times some will enjoy a dish of dry rolled oats, or oats with a little bran mixed. Some will eat quite a quantity of dry bran. It is a fine cleaner and does no injury.

For hot weather it is best to leave the meat out of the food and thirty minutes later feed the meat.

Hot foods must be avoided, but slightly warmed in winter is an advantage in providing heat. A dog's mouth is much more easily burned than a human.  THE AIREDALE 25

The dogs nature has been much changed by his association with man and his food should be somewhat similar, yet, there is still quite a bit of the wild left in him and this must be catered to.

In the winter months, when the weather is cold, there will be no harm come from its use, provided each has been kept in receptacles that will not generate poison. We would advise most of our dogs to have a little of this in their diet, indeed, they improve the digestion, increase the jaw power and enable kennelled dogs to while away much time. Bones should not be offered to them except those which are suitable with them, nor in the exercise yard at any time. Fights will break out over bone more quickly than from most any other cause. If bread from white flour is fed in any quantity, brain should be fed with it so as to prevent it.

If a dog is in good flesh and does not eat, let him miss a meal or two without any fear of it being harmful. The following is a good substitute for charcoal, bisumum and pepsin, three times a day. A good sub- stitute for these, and a very good thing to give all of them at times, is a teaspoonful of the ashes of the wood ash, ashes and the charcoal that is in them. Rub this through a sieve, a teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of sulphur and two ounces of pepper. Mix well together and give one teaspoonful daily mixed. Give about a teaspoonful once or twice a day in the food. For the benefit of the coat, some give a teaspoonful of sulphur in food once each week. This is a tonic and when given in large quantities some seem to improve things after large quantities have failed. No harm will come from it. If a dog is to be fattened, it is well to feed him frequently and not too much at a time. Give fresh meat every day and fresh water every hour. A dog his- cuit between meals, or something that appeals to him. They should have a sufficient quantity of fresh water and the wet and dry food should be kept clean. When dogs are being worked the food should be much stronger than when they are idle. Dog food should not be fed from the table when one is eating, it is not the proper place for them. If dogs are fed along the lines indicated herein, there will be no trouble from worms. If we do not keep our kennels, get them in this way and have gotten them rid of worms without  26 THE AIREDALE

the use of any drugs. It will not always rid a dog of tapeworms, but it will make things very disagreeable for the tape and rid the dog of large portions of it. If one discovers that a dog is infested with worms, a small quantity of red pepper should be sprinkled on the food, and the dog fed on it. The pepper should be given to young puppies.

When one is on a camp hunt, food for the dog sometimes becomes quite scarce, but if he has been well trained he can digest most anything. Rolled barley, (horse feed,) whole corn and the carcases of wild animals, that they ordinarily would not eat, can be used. The meat should be cooked and seasoned.  CHAPTER V. THE STUD DOG

The conditions are so varied, as to what one might want information concerning a stud dog, one scarcely knows what to say on this subject.

He is going to buy a stud the chapter on buying should be of value to him. If he has bitches to mate with him, the bloodlines and defects of the bitches should be taken into consideration. Of course, get a dog that should correct the defects in the bitches and also those that have been bred by him, or by his blood-breeding or line breeding as you may like. Read chapter on matings.

The number of really good stud dogs, by this we mean real sires, is very few. I have seen more than twenty, but I have seen some sixteen great ones. To read the kennel papers one might conclude there were multitudes of them.

When you go to buy a stud dog sent to him, he should be a good one. This goes without saying. He should have a strong pedigree and personally we like to see a champion bitch appear in the litter. The sire should be a good sire and he should be the parent of extra good bitches that have not become champions and we have seen these crop out to the fourth and fifth generation repeat- edly.

He should be a quiet, game Terrier. Should be well controlled and kept so in a way that will not ruin his disposition. Please get that, control him, but don't ruin his disposition. Give him exercise every day, but do not over-exercise him. Do not let him be wrong when you have bitches that are in use, make him blind, but with as little whipping as possible and keep the bitch as far away from him as possible. If you put your dog in a shipping crate, remember on the second floor of a building, for it appears that the dog can not get scent of her very well then. Put in shipping crate, if no other place.

If the stud is made of the right stuff he is going to be boss of all the other dogs and his master also, if the master will permit it. Young dogs that are coming on should be kept away from him until they are old enough to get along with him; after that he will take some of it out of them sometimes. This does his disposition no benefit and may seriously damage the young fellow and cause  28

• THE AIREDALE

him to lose his courage. Puppies should also be kept from him, he may tire of their carcases and cut them very badly.

There can be no set rule, for what works in handling one dog may not work with another. In order to make a success in the dog game without using his brains, he had better quit the game early. It requires brains and work to produce good results. A man who has been successful in training dogs in severely punishing a dog, if it can be avoided. In one case it may make the dog and in two other cases it may ruin him. We do not recall having soundly punished but one stud dog, of the several we have owned, by the name of "Ready" and "Reasy". When we got him he was reported to have killed five dogs and after being with us for a short time he was turned into a yard where a young boy was allowed to play with him. The young boy had assumed the task of watching them and objected to "Ready" getting too close to them. "Ready" promptly went for the young boy and gave him a severe thrashing. This was repeated until he was after him again. This time we took him by the back of the neck and gave him a severe shaking. This only made him the more determined to get at the boy. He would not let us take him, he turned on us. The young dog was locked in a kennel, a good chain and collar was placed on "Ready" in a few very seconds and a hitch taken around his neck. The collar was then adjusted with a piece of rubber hose over his head. We were the best friends after that and while he never had a chance at another young dog, we have seen puppies worry him on many occasions when they were not afraid of him. He was always necessary to control. He spent several months at the San Fran- cia Exposition in 1915 with several of our other dogs and on the occasion of his leaving I wrote this little story which I am looking letter than he had ever seen him, yet he was so affec- tionate, and seemed to beg to be taken away, or to go with us, in such a way that it was hard to resist his request. This little story has never been told before and is not written in a boastful way, but as an illustration in handling and the fidel- ity of our dogs. We have had many dogs who have thought more of us than the many handlers he had had and wished to go home again. A noble fellow he was, patient to his absent The stud dog should be kept in good strong flesh, but not fat. Should have plenty of exercise to keep him hard and at least his  THE AIREDALE

head and neck should be kept fairly well stripped. He should be regularly groomed each day and kept in a perfectly good kennel. Frequently if a bitch is placed in the kennel with him, particu- larly at night after he has eaten his food, it will make him more quiet.

When he is fretting over a bitch it is much more difficult to properly feed him and sometimes out of the best one can do is to get him to eat a small quantity of the strongest foods.

If he is a young dog he should have some training of some kind, the more the better.

If he is to be used for show purposes, large bones should be kept from him, for he will wear his teeth off too soon.

He must be kept free from small dogs which he sends to him will miss.

As the age at which a stud should begin his duties, there are many opinions on this subject that have gotten some of their best puppies when they were ten months to a year old. Others will not use them until they are well past a year old. Many agree that the English breeders prefer to wait until they are two years old, then sire stronger puppies than when younger. However the bitch must have much to do with it, and her management while in whelp has much to do with the success of the breeding procedure. The English have the world beat when it comes to breeding dogs and they usually do not use a dog for stud purposes until he is pretty well made up and that is generally from eighteen months to two years old. In our country we have seen many fine dogs from a young fellow, we think it well to have him serve a bitch when from ten months to one year old. It will improve him in many ways. He will be able to keep up with the bitch and she will not do so think it advisable to keep it up when begun at this young age. In some cases it is well to have him serve a bitch at this age, if it is necessary.

Except he be a very fine specimen, his pedigree is more valuable than the dog himself, for the pedigree will most likely do the pro- ducing and not the dog itself.

The amount of the dog has very much to do with his quality and the results he attains in the stud. A dog that has beaten the best of them and then placed in the hands of one who knows not or cares not, what to do with him, lets him become affected with  30 THE AIREDALE

worms and otherwise out of condition, will be defeated by very ordinary dogs and fall in the stud. Conceivably, worms sometimes impair fertility but not necessarily affect the quality of the offspring.

There is a tendency on the part of many to have the owner of the stud refuse inferior bitches. This is one thing that one doing this, it is purely a matter of business and for he alone to do so.

As to refusing inferior bitches, this is also a matter for the owner of the stud to decide. The class of bitches served have a most important bearing in the matter of judging the quality of the get of the dog.

Ch. Channel Rough & Ready

Ch. Channel Rough & Ready  CHAPTER VI. THE BROOD BITCH

The selection of the brood bitch is governed by very many things. So varied are these it is impossible to say anything that would fit all instances.

The writer figures that the bitch, if she be a good one, is from sixty to ninety per cent of the mating, depending upon the indi- viduals of which she is composed. It is evident, therefore, that a bitch of strong individuality and strong breeding, will have much more to do with what is produced from the mating, than will any other part of the stock. The same may be said of the sire. Good bitches are absolutely necessary to the production of good ones, no matter whether they be for show, or utility purposes of any nature.

If we were to undertake to describe a perfect brood bitch, she would be of fair size, a champion or at least one that had done well under the care of a good breeder, by a dog that had produced some- thing of note and out of a good stock. She should be a true pedi- gree full of good ones. The more good bitches the better. We would want her to be a terrier, game, true, exceedingly intelligent, a good mother and a good breeder.

Some contend that large bitches do not throw good ones. We have not found this to be true. At the present time the tendency is towards smaller bitches, but there are still many breeders demanding that it is more difficult to produce a good big one than a good small one. If they are to be made larger, then in our opinion the size must come mostly from the dam. However, if they are to retain their original size they can be larger than most small bitches. Many large bitches do not possess this, which fact no doubt, causes many to conclude that a large bitch can not throw good ones.

The mother's care has much to do with what the puppies will be, but it is not always possible to grow puppies from the smaller bitches, as they are often too weak and feeble to stand up against storms from bad rearing and yet be from large parents. In such cases she can be expected to throw at least some that will make into speci- mens of good size. However if many small ones are known to be in her pedigree, she can not be expected to get them up to size.  32 THE AIREDALE

even though she be mated with a large dog and one that has sired large ones.

A good bitch of medium size, possessing lots of "nerve force," she out of a good, large one should be an ideal to produce the kind preferred today.

As the bitch must likely to largely govern the color and coat of her puppies, no little attention should be paid to her selection as to these points.

She should be educated by hunting or other accomplishments. This aid will materially in the working qualities of her offspring and will add materially to their utility qualities.

After the selection comes the care of "madame." She should be given sufficient food, fresh air, exercise and such food as will keep her in good flesh, but not fat. If too fat she may miss when mated. She must be kept free of worms, for the same reason. Around the age of 18 months she should be bred at least every six months of age, more frequently around one year old. By many it is thought best to breed her the first time in, it develops her and brings out all her best qualities. The first litter is usually small and is on the small size, one should use judgment as to breeding her. Frequently to breed the first time and let her pass the second time she is bred again. This is not necessary if she is allowed to pass the first time. Breeding them when young does not seem to affect the quality of the puppies but continuous breeding of bitches that have had two litters in a short time. When a bitch is mated at time of use she will usually come round again in four to eight months. If she is bred and raises a litter, she may be expected to be ready in from six to twelve months. Usually a bitch will bear three litters in a year. Sometimes they have raised three large litters in a year. It is absurd that quality ones can be thus produced. Some parties interested hold this out as proof that a bitch can be trained to bear three litters in a year. In the breeding game. In a kennel of several bitches it is usually safe to figure on about one and one-half litters per bitch per year. From this it would appear that a bitch who has been so fructuous bitch may lose her puppies by worrying and fretting the first few days after they are born. If a bitch contracts distemper about at the time she is bred, she is almost sure not to whelp.

Before the bitch is ready one will of course figure on the do:  THE AIREDALE 38

She is to be mated to. This is covered in our chapter on right matings.

As a rule she will menstruate for nine to eleven days before she is ready for service, however each individual will have her own peculiarities. Some will have lurches for several days before menstruation commences, while others may menstruate after six or eight days. She is mated only about five days and if she was not bred at once, she will out within twenty-four hours and have nothing to do with the dog. This is the time when the bitch should be taken to the safe side and kept there until after first signs of menstruation. To be on the safe side they should be securely kennelled after the first three days. By securely keeping them in this way, the bitch's heat will not come out so quickly and she can not possibly stray off, by breaking out, digging out, climbing over her enclosure or unfastening the door or gate to the enclosure. The same precautions should be taken that no dog gets to them in the same enclosure.

Some contend that a bitch that has "caught" will go out very quickly after being mated. This we think depends very much on the sex of the bitch and the age of the male. It is better to wait out more quickly when the mating has been a success than when no mating was had or it has been a failure.

The bitch is not a good subject to control the sex, but we think very little of the most of them. If there is anything in any of them, it is that of breeding late in the period to get the more males. It is also that some bitches prefer this way to evenly distribute the two sexes. That in a wild state, females were plentiful, thus causing the mating as soon as the female would accept it, thus producing more females. On the contrary, if males were plentiful, then they would breed with all females and before her scent was picked up by a male, this causing the mating to take place late in her period, then males would predominately, to make up for their lack of numbers, breed with all females. The breeds follow the rule to mate as late in the period as is considered safe. Endeavoring to mate along this line we have had both sexes equally represented. In one instance we had a litter of nine males and no female.

Litters usually consist of six to fourteen puppies.

As to one or two services, that is a matter for the owner to decide. If he has only one, he has been mated before, where two services are better, with one day intervening. Bitches should be true in breeding.  84 THE AIREDALE

ing to a dog his first service. Also the condition of the flesh of both dog and bitch should be taken into consideration. If either are fat, or are known not to be at all times "sure", then two matings should be made, one with each bitch, so that if one is inclined to have large litters, the writer uses only one service.

After one is absolutely sure that it is safe to have her out, after being in heat for three days, she should be given a bath, and it is better to work her, of course keeping her in good flesh. She should be made a "pal" of as much as possible and to do as many things as are consistent with her health. The bitch should be fed on milk until producing healthy and useful puppies with the correct dispositions.

After about four weeks she should be given the best of foods only and the food should be changed every day. The quantities of food should be four to six times per day. Large quantities should be avoided at this time and no useless substances should be given. If she is going to produce a large litter and is fed large quantities during the first week, she will become very fat and will have great difficulty in giving birth to the puppies, and even greater trouble may arise at the time of birth, from some being dead.

The bitch who whelps she will probably refuse all food and may occupy herself in preparing a nest.

After she begins to show in whelp, which will be in about five weeks' time, she should be fed on milk only. This food should be given in her food each night and morning and continued till the puppies are weaned. This is to aid to producing large bone in puppies and also in increasing their strength.

If she has been properly fed on only the best and most nourishing foods her bowels will be quite lax. If otherwise, she should be given laxatives before due to whelp. Much better to avoid this by proper feeding.

She should be entirely free from fleas before the puppies are due and the bed such that it will remain free of them for at least some time. The puppies should not be allowed to play with other young puppies and the puppies can not be treated for them until several weeks old.

The period of gestation is from fifty-eight to sixty-five days, commonly called nine weeks. If every thing goes well the puppies can usually be expected in about sixty to sixty one days.

It is best that he be kept away from dogs that will jump on her to play or otherwise annoy her, for three weeks before whelping.  THE AIREDALE 35

At this time she is placed in her whelping quarters, which should be roomy and well aired, but somewhat quiet and the house so arranged that she cannot be seen by other dogs while whelping. The whelping should be a necessary one of wood to be removed a few days before time. The ground should be clean and free from heat, foul nor dusty, yet should not be wet, especially if weather is cool or cold. When the first puppy is in pain she should be left entirely alone, except that fresh water should be given every hour. She will dig out a bowl shaped nest in the ground about the size of a large dish-pan and it may be four to ten hours after the first one has been born before another appears. The puppies should not be disturbed at all. If all does not go well, she will let it be known and if all goes well she will be too busy dressing her new family to notice anything.

After the puppies are all dried off, it is well to go in and look them over and if any are dead they should be removed, otherwise let them remain until they are all born. This is old advice. At this time they may be carefully looked over and if too many are born and no foster mother is available, the surplus should be destroyed.

When feeding the mother before and after the puppies come, it should be done with a good milk diet, such as a calf's milk or one dog, but many and that one stomach must do all the digesting for the lot. This also must be kept in mind and largely govern the number that are born. We have found that we can feed 10 or 12 puppies and try to raise them all. Some well known breeders who have made success have a rigid rule of never leaving more than six with the mother. This rule has been found to be too strict and has been too governed by the appearance of the litter, their breeding quality and the condition and prospects of the mother as a feeder.

Airedale bitches usually are the best of mothers and frequently will take puppies not their own, if at all in condition to nurse them. Sometimes a bitch that was bred about the same time as the mother  36 THE AIREDALE

and for some reason has missed, will gladly adopt the puppies and quickly come to her milk and fully provide for them. Nothing but a good healthy bitch of any breed should be used as a foster mother and the puppies taken from the mother should always be left with her until they are weaned. The first thing that must be done is to give the puppies a bath, which is a laxative and starts their little internal machinery to working properly.

A black and white photograph of a dog lying on its back. Feeding time. Litter by Ch. Midland Royal

Before the litter is born we make a frame about 2½ x 3 feet, from 1 x 4 lumber and on one side of this frame is tacked most securely a gunny sack that has been ripped open and not too tightly stretched over it. This is placed in such a way that the puppies from their bed of nature, slightly fill up the nest and place this frame over it with the cloth down. If properly made the cloth will prevent the puppies from rolling out of it and will pre- vent the puppies getting away from their mother. They are able to crawl over this cloth and the next will cause them to roll back and remain near the mother, in the event they are too much

14  THE AIREDALE

of a rambling nature. These frames are changed daily and the hose is turned on the soiled ones and they are left in the sun till needed.

When the mother first manifests a desire for food it is given in limited quantity and very gradually increased. If any indications of indigestion are shown—and they are very likely to appear—she should be fed with a mixture of milk, bread, bismuth and pepsin three times each day for two or three days.

As the mother rounds to, her food is gradually increased and she will soon become quite active. When the puppies are several weeks old and able to follow her up, a shelf should be provided for her to get up on, to avoid the youngsters constantly annoying her. She should have a little exercise and play with them, but not too much, as a sign of taking into the residence for a short time, or "any old thing" for a diversion. Having a bunch of husky youngsters always working on her can be very tiring. The mother dog gets tired and not want them to nurse to the age that is best for them.

Nursing bitches should be fed quite freely on raw lean meat, if ground it is much more easily digested.

37  CHAPTER VII RIGHT MATINGS

No difference how carefully correct may be the mating, unless the offspring therafore be properly raised, the result will be dis- appointing. The best results are obtained by those who have studied experience, there will be many who will have their own ideas as to breeding what is desired by them; while others will be guided by custom, or by the advice of others, rather than by proper thought and desire. Still others will "trust to luck."

First we might say, that only healthy specimens should be made. Yet once in a great while it is the making of a bitch to her proper mate.

One, of course, should fully decide what he wishes to produce. If he is after exhibiting stock the mating should be made from a known good sire and dam, and from a known good show win- ning stock. It is frequently better to breed to the sire that has produced a famous show specimen than to breed to the said female. In this way one can often get a better result. And, by the way, this same prepotency has the faculty of cropping out in most unsuspected places. One dog may possess it and yet all of his progeny may not inherit it. This is very common with dogs very few. Careful breeders consider it the height of folly to breed to a dog simply because he has won a lot of prizes. Better find another dog that has some other quality that you want, if they are such as are suited to the bitch that is to be bred. Also if each have the same fault or faults; or their immediate families have the same fault or faults. We would rather breed to a ten dollar dog with a bad tail, than to a dog that costs us a thousand dol- lar with a good tail.

Some one has well written hat to breed dogs constantly, the breeding being done by the father, the grandire and grand- dam, and all their brothers and sisters. To breed intelligently one should at least know many of the dogs that figure for three or more generations.

Then whatever be the faults that exist in the dam, there should be an effort to correct them in the sire to be chosen. Few Aire- dales are born with long tails, but they are apt to have short ones; bitches usually have longer backs than do the dogs, and this is generally allowed them, in judging. Yet, of course, it would be fully a brest's birth that is long in back to a dog that has the same well defined fault in him; or to a dog from a family known to  THE AIREDALE 39

have this failing. The same is true as to light eyes, heavy ears, broad skulls, bad fronts and feet, short necks and heads, mumpy muz- zles, low set sterns, soft coats and many other short comings. It is plain then that any fault that is present in one of the individuals affects all.

It should also be kept in mind that no difference how well formed otherwise may be the individual, a nice long arching neck will not make a good head. This is a common fault among the breeders. One of the serious problems in breeding tippers according to the standard. Long heads and long necks usually accompany long bodies. Also, the coat is often too short on the shoulders and coats are supposed by the standard, usually are short on whiskers (or furnishings.) The present day high class Airedales do not have long necks or long bodies. The long necks and long bodies are supposed to be made of bone, and a slight chin whisker (goatee) placed under a straight jaw is what is now expected to give a square head and a good head in this section. A bell-shaped muzzle is not desired and seldom seen.

Twenty five years ago, George Wilks' sons crossed on Marmite Patchen mares produced the most and best trotters. The same thing happened with the Airedale breed. The crossing of the families headed by Champion Crompton Oorang and Champion Master Royal have the reputation of having produced more champions than any other family. It has been stated that the daughters of Champion Midland Royal have produced more champions than any other sire. Personally, the only type of Airedale I have ever seen that would be considered type may be had by breeding from sons or grandsons of any other sire, those that have been brought down through good individuals with good breeding. There are some exceptions to this rule, but they are of the famous families, except in return breeding to these heads.

It is for each person to decide whether he prefers to use line breeding or out-crossing and the subject of line-breeding is entirely too much discussed.

We believe in line-breeding with due regard to the individuals to be mated. For line-breeding will be surely intensify faults as related to the standard. In any kennel it is wise at certain times to introduce some new blood.

The novice lacking in knowledge to safely estimate lineage,  40

THE AIREDALE

will frequently find that the best pedigree for him is the name of the reliable breed.

Where results are wanted it is much better to pay a reasonable sum for a dog of a satisfactory mating than to breed for convenience. Honest efforts in the matings is the only way any of us will ever attain that much desired and enviable reputation as a breeder of dogs. A bad reputation that will fol- low in history as the one worth while.

The wonderful progenocity—or ability to breed on—of Chamer Midland Royal was recently demonstrated in a litter that is lined with 15 puppies, five of which have been sold at auction, certi- fying that he has the qualities of a great sire.

The advantage to be had from breeding to a famous dog, of the old line, is that the sire must be a sire, that they are, or should be, closely related to the famous ones that gave the breed the reputation for gameness and grand utility qualities, when the breeder has no other choice. The sire of such a famous dog such a dog should impress these qualities on his progeny to a marked degree, especially if bred to his descendants.

Quality and Utility ones

The Airedale was built for a worker—one always ready, and in our opinion, unless a continuance is kept along that line, he will suffer greatly in quality and utility—that has been so well con- structed on that solid foundation.

If persistent efforts were not continued with the famous strains of milking cows, we would not have the record of 30,000 pounds in one year. Would them continue to lay more than 250 and 300 eggs per year, if no efforts were made? The same thing may be said of the Airedale. Great heights may be reached in combining the individual qualities and utility purposes of many other kinds of live stock, may not the exhibi- tion points and the working qualities of the greatest all round dog be considered as being attained? Is there any reason why an yet been bred?

True it is more difficult to breed men so as to combine all the qualities that man may desire, but is it not worth while? If in a little over fifty years an Airedale can be produced that is judged the best in the show of several hundred dogs of all kinds, includ- ing some varieties that have been born for centuries; and if during these  THE AIREDALE 41

years many are produced that will out do many old breeds in their own line of utility and do many things that no other breed can do, can not these two qualities be combined by systematic management?

Do you think that in utilities the Airedale has reached the top and can not be improved in this respect? If you do, we must say,

What would be the reward for the breeder who is able to bring out one that would defeat all comers in the show ring and surpass all others in other accomplishments? Would it not be the several hundred dollars' produce which all such combinations would derive? Would not the pleasure the breeder would derive from an intimate knowledge of, and intimate association with such a creature, be worth a thousand times more than money? The success would be a lingering pleasure in his memory to the end of his days and his achievement would go down in history. Has any one ever heard of a dog that was so successful in the past decade? Is not the future full of possibilities for man's best friend?

Do you know of any other varities whose future is more bright than that of the Airedale?

If these questions answer themselves, why not "get in the game" and try your hands at it.

There are points to be considered in mating for this class, are covered in the preceding lines of this chapter. To this must be added the mating for brains, gameness, disposition and fidelity. The latter two qualities may be produced by breeding. Gameness may be produced from mating intelligent specimens that have such in their ancestry, the more of this kind that appear in the pedigree the better. Disposition may be produced by educating the individuals to be mated. Read our chapter on training.

The name is true as to gameness, with much stress being placed on proper management.

Dispositions and fidelity can largely be covered with the same words as the foregoing qualities, but these are wonderfully influenced by the intelligence and willingness of the handler during puppyhood and early maturity.

In our humble opinion, which is shared by other writers, these qualities are best combined in the western bred ones, because,  42 THE AIREDALE

in the West there is much more use for the Airedale in a utility way—there is much more for him to do in hunting game of every kind and in other work usages. Two or three dogs of two very young individuals should be mated. In either instance low vitality will likely result. If an old stud is to be used, splendid results may attain by using a young dam. The sire should be mated with a dam to mate her with a young dog. A number of real toppers have been produced in this way, especially by line breeding to a famous sire.

Wherever located, invalids will find great benefit and remuneration may be had from raising this class. Those who enjoy pleasant occupations of their time together with recreation and amusement will find this a most enjoyable employment.

Fashion must be considered in breeding, it changes and upsets one's plans. It must not be overlooked, for fashion usually has the price and he who is able to meet its requirements is able to get the increased financial gain to be derived therefrom.

The Just-happened-so kind

We are minded to see that this class is going to largely increase in the future and in the West we shall see it. Just as the farmer's wife believes that the Leghorns will lay more eggs than the Barred Rocks, instead of knowing that it is the particular strains that constitute the difference, will there be many to say the Airedale is not worth anything? We feel that it is hard to bring to any old thing without even going so far as to learn that the dogs mated are really made up solely of Airedale blood. Too bad that so many people are not aware of this fact. We feel that nothing we might say would in any way lessen the crime nor further the day.  CHAPTER VIII. RAISING PUPPIES

We closed the chapter on "The Brood Bitch" with the puppies twenty four hours old. At about this time, if there are more than should be left with the mother, the extra ones are taken to the barn or housetrained or drowned and buried, without the knowledge of the mother.

There are many ideas about what to destroy and one never knows how many good ones he may put out of the way. It is not always easy to make matters some thought and figure as best one can under the conditions.

Since there is usually more demand for males than for females, it is not unusual to play with the females, except where a male is clear y too much off. Some say destroy the underones. Others, those with white marks on their faces.

Many of us believe that the best one frequently have white on them at birth. There are two kinds of white. One that stays on them all their lives, and another that comes and goes. The ray whites one should be done away with, and one should know something of the family traits to be able to distinguish. The descendants of the Royal White usually shoot quite a bit of white on their feet so as to keep some on brown. We have never seen this fail to leave by the tail growing out through (from beneath) the white. There are aires that show more white and the rest of them are black. This is a very rare thing, but it happens where, therefore it is not necessary to consider t this, as it usually diminishes till scarcely noticed.

It is also believed that we are familiar with, if the white does not appear above the foot, it is safe to believe that it will disappear. If it runs up the leg it indicates an ancestor that was white. If it appears in any other place, it means very strong reasons otherwise, this kind should not be kept. The breeder has never bred any of this kind.

We must decide whether we want a quite simple first decide whether we with the mother to care for six or eight. Then we look the males over and if they appear good, they are put back in the nest and we look for the best female and put her back. In this way they are  44 THE AIREDALE

culled till the desired number are left. One can get a fair idea of the coats and retain the hard ones. The shade of tan can be usually obtained from the small spot over the eyes. If one selects by colour alone, the head, neck, and legs will be found to be not, at least, the skulla, muzzlea and bone should also be fully considered. In short, judge as best you can and retain the better ones. In some cases, however, it may be necessary to cull a few.

Old breeders contend that the puppies that show unusually black will, after maturity, retain the color of saddle longer than others.

The mother can handle quite a number for a few days, without any injury to herself or her young. She must not be allowed to rest within the first three days and assist in the culling.

If the mother is doing well and gradually increases in weight she need no more attention till four days of age. This is the time to cut the tails. Two ways are very easy. Remove all the puppies and leave the mother secured in a box with a door open on one side. Put a strong knife, puppy in one hand while the operator takes hold of the very tip of the tail and never with sharp scissors, leaving fifty six to per centum of them. The tail should be cut so that it does not need to be lengthened, but if too long it can be shortened by a veterinarian, after maturity.

A tail that is too short is quite injurious to appearance, and should be kept at a level with the head of the dog at maturity is considered to be correct.

The other way to cut correctly is to have some one hold the puppy at the end of a board, place him on one side of a table, with the entire animal standing on the board. Place a sharp blade of knife on tail and carefully get the correct proportion. The blade will easily go down through the tail to the board and leave a nice clean cut. When this has been done all puppies are returned to the mother in the next and no further attention is necessary, as she will dress each one and in a few days they will be fully grown. The puppies should not be removed until they appear too short, at three to seven or more months of age they will appear too long, but when maturity is reached they will be the proper size for breeding purposes.

At the time of cutting the tails, all dew claws, if any, should be removed. This is done by using a small pair of sharp scissors, curved ones being preferable, and carefully feeling for the joint that is very near the leg bone. Two or three weeks later the  THE AIREDALE

puppies should again be looked over, if dew claws have re-appeared, they should again be removed. If they are cut sufficiently close the first time, they will not likely appear the second time.

At this stage, the mother's condition, which affects her in any way, will quickly affect the puppies.

The mother should have a teaspoonful of Calcium Phosphate in her water daily. This will increase the growth of bone and prevent the milk from souring. If the feces of the puppies are too lax, boiled rice should be fed to the mother. Water, in which a little barley has been soaked, if given to the mother, will have the same effect.

The breasts of the mother should be closely watched, and if the puppies are not nursing them, or if they do not nurse them, they should be made to do so, or these should be gently milked. If this is not done, her breasts will likely "cake" and form an abscess. If they do become infected, the mother's teats should be removed and the puppies' baths changed with a solution of vinegar. She can put back with the puppies after the breasts are milked, bathed and dried.

In case of loss of all the puppies, the same treatment should be given the bitch.

If all goes well, and it most frequently does, the food of the dam should be gradually increased in both quantity and frequency. After puppies pass three weeks of age, they are quite a drain on the mother and it is not too frequent to feed her five or six times each day, not too large quantities, but of the most nutritious kind.

At three and one-half weeks of age the puppies may be fed their first meal. This should be a small quantity of fresh cow's milk, that has been kept at room temperature for 15 minutes. Allow no boil. This will destroy the germs in the milk. Place the milk in a shal- low pan and permit it to cool to the temperature of the mother's milk before feeding it to the puppies. As soon as possible after en- couragement will start them eating and the quantity and frequency may be gradually increased. Fore noon and afternoon will be suitable times for feeding them. The quantity of milk in each meal broth should be added and gradually increased in proportion till the milk is done away with, in a week or ten days. At this time some well cooked, finely chopped, lean meat may be given and gradually increased. Soon thereafter raw lean meat, finely ground  46 THE AIREDALE

may be given occasionally, and as soon as the puppies are feeding well, some rolled oats should be added to their food and a small quantity of Calcium Phosphate placed in it morning and evening. All of these to be increased as the puppies grow and increase in appetite. The meal at night may be made more convenient and contain the meat of a lamb. After two and one-half weeks the meal may be fed as frequently as five or six times each day, the meal should be fed in fifteen minutes after it is laid for them and a fresh supply given immediately afterwards. It is not uncommon to have any that the youngsters do not care for. Sour or feul foods and dishes should be scrupulously avoided.

As the puppies grow older, the quantities of food should be increased and puppy meal may be added, or the two may be alternated to furnish a variety in the bill of fare. At five weeks they should be quite independent of their mother's milk, but until then they can eat quantities of rolled oats, puppy meal and meat that the consistency is not all sloppy. Corn bread and other scraps from the table may be given to them when they are old enough to take them, twice each day and this should be continued till they are several months old. Some will eat more frequently than others. Heavy feeders and any that fail to start fighting, should be fed away from the others. In fact after they have started fighting, it is really best to feed only a few together.

Any that are not doing well should have a regular supply of raw or cooked meat just before retiring at night.

Calves head, sheep heads and bullocks are very fine for growing puppies. Sheep bellies may be fed cooked or raw. Avoid pepper, as a little salt is sufficient.

If some are entirely too scrappy and you wish to take out of him, this may be done by kenneling and feeding with an older dog, or by giving him a good meal every day. The quantity and quality of food. To have good ones, it is necessary that they keep growing all the time.

We cannot tell you what they should weigh at certain ages; nor how much they will take on each month. Different families and different individuals vary very greatly. Some will attain to weight at a matured weight, by the time they are seven or eight months old, others will not reach it until they are eleven months old, and will be puppies at twelve months. Usually the slow maturing ones are the better.  A particular time of the week is here. Then there comes the temporary winter.

A black-and-white photograph shows a group of children standing on a street. The children are wearing coats and hats, and they appear to be playing or waiting. In the background, there is a building with a large window and a tree. The ground is covered in snow.  48 THE AIREDALE

In the event of the loss of the mother and one feels it would be well to try to raise the puppies by hand, it is usually best to have a reliable woman care for them. She will heat a man every day in her work.

Aitches milk has about eight times the strength of cows milk therefore if cows milk is used in sufficient quantities to give the puppy its full nourishment, the mother's milk will be wasted and would taken would distend the stomach and cause the puppy to be ill-shaped. Cows milk may be slowly heated and evaporated; orphan puppies may be fed with this at first but soon after, it is to get them on the broth and meat as soon as possible.

When puppies are four weeks of age, one should read our chapter on feeding.

Better puppies may be had by feeding frequently in small quantities than by feeding less frequently and in larger quantities.

They will get their full nourishment when they are two months of age. Should they not shoot at this time, it indicates that they will have good length of foreaturt and maturity, and the teeth will most likely fall out before they are three months old. Further, the teeth are level at this age, it is very likely they will be fully grown, matured; or will have short foreshould. Should they be under-shot at four or five months of age, or before that age, we would suggest that we feed them more frequently.

All puppies have worms, some have more than others. At five to six weeks of age it is safe to treat the first time. The first treatment should be given with a teaspoonful of Worming Powder Acre Nut. Follow this in thirty minutes, with a teaspoonful of Caster Oil. A half hour to one hour later some warm milk should be given to the puppy to help digest the medicine.

Treatment for worms should be repeated in a fortnight and continued for some months. After the second treatment the puppies should be fed only once a day for a few days each time till the last treatments are three to four weeks old. As the puppies increase in size, the quantity of Acre Nut should also be increased. However, ten to fifteen grains should be sufficient per pound of weight of dog, yet our experience has been that no benefit is derived from giving such large doses.

It is best that food for puppies should be heated sufficiently to take the chill off. In cold weather it is too much to expect the  THE AIREDALE 49

little follows to beat it in their stomachs. Yet it is very easy to burn a dog's mouth. If milk is boiled it will cause constipation, and this should be avoided.

Constipation at any time may cause other troubles and is a material aid to worms of all kinds. One of the great advantages of the bedcham broth, is that the grease and the insulating fat worms. Under puppies are kept free from worms until they will not thrive.

If they are fed as herein described and it is noticed that worms are present, this does not mean that they should neces- sarily be treated for worms, but rather that the proper care is freeing them without the use of medicines.

The mother dog, however, may get away from the ambitious, annoying youngsters, and she will give some exercise as a diversion, she will usually continue to let them play with her, and if she does not do so gradually that neither mother nor puppies will know that it has taken place. If this does not take place in this way, the puppies tend to become shyly and sooner than is desired, very little can be done except in the proper care and feeding on the part of the kennelman.

Most Airedale bitches make the very best mothers and even after they have had puppies they are still busy in being with and teaching them to play and fight. This is very good indeed unless she takes too much pleasure in seeing a first class scrap. She must be taught to understand that she knows that they will be always ready for a mix-up. It is proper that they should know how to fight, and if it is bred in them, they will fight when called upon to do so. The Airedale is a breed of players and frequently make quite a bit of noise when playing, causing some persons to think they are fighting. How- ever, when they are made of proper stuff and are two years old, they are not likely to be told when a fight is started. When a fight is started it should be stopped as soon as possible, otherwise some one is going to get the blame for starting it. The Airedale is a breed of "pep" taken out of him that he will be a very long time getting over it. We want them to know how to fight and to have "get" to do it, but don't want it wasted on each other.  50 THE AIREDALE

It is not always the puppy that is ready to start a fight, that is the gamest of the lot. In some litters there will be a quiet fellow, one that is always self contained, one that will quit eating rather than fight, and when the poor little puppies are rives, this fellow may whip several of the others and then laugh about it. These quiet ones do not always show the brains they carry and frequently attempt their own kind work if wanted.  CHAPTER IX. TRAINING

The Airedale is so adaptable that he will almost train himself. He should be always ready and willing, and frequently have to be restrained on many timid ones may need some encouragement at times, but this is not necessary.

We do not like to mention punishment, for so many persons are prone to punish a dog, when, in reality the dog is wiser than they and the person needs the punishment and not the dog.

The only thing we know of that is worse than the punish- ment of a dog is to make him think he can be the boss and go unrestrained at all times. They are a nuisance and the person who owns such is wholly unfit to have an Airedale.

A dog must be trained to obey his master, no dog or most any other animal will be your master unless you show him that you are the boss. This does not mean to take a club and go after him with it, but you must show him that you are the boss. You should be gently, but firmly, "informed of his rights." A sharp word, a pinch of the ear will inform him. A shaking by getting hold of his collar and shaking him until he understands what is needed. All this may be summed up in the following words. Be boss of the dog; don't punish him unnecessarily nor when he does not know what he is being punished for. Do not punish any more than is necessary. If you have to go to another room, but go to him and after you have administered the required punishment, call him to you and caress him to show that you are still his friend and that you love him.

We could more than write this chapter on what others have taught their Airedales and the wonderful things they have done for them. We would rather teach our dogs to work honestly in what the other fellow's dog has done, but primarily in what you will accomplish. If you have the right kind of an individual, his training will be easy. If you have a dog that is not right whatever may be your business; whatever may interest you and be a sport and recreation for you, in these will he take an interest and be ready and more than willing to aid you and to add to your enjoyment.

10  The lady who was in the room when the dog was in it, saw him jump down. She got hold of a mirror to see how she was dressed. The man who had been watching her, came up and said, "I am going to take you home."  THE AIREDALE

They are great students of human nature and can tell at a glance when the master is not in his usual pleasant mood.

Puppies should have some attention beginning at three weeks of age. They will come to the "kennel" and will come when they hear it in their kennel. At four weeks they will be ready for a little play and at six weeks we have had them to return home with us.

At five weeks they should be allowed to follow out to where they may see strangers, vehicles and other new sights. It is much easier and much better to accustom them to strange sights at an early age than later on. The puppies are very sensitive and are frightened and are not run over. One can not depend on them following reliably, at this age.

As soon as there is evidence in this way they should be taken out on the lead. After the collar and lead has been placed on the young- ster he should have a little care to let him know that every- thing is all right. He must be allowed to explore, but he may and he may not. Some will refuse by sitting down and defying one to pull them. Others will luck like a bronco. In either case the master must be patient and must not become angry or even ominously calling him to come on. At intervals it is well to stop and let him get a breath and a nice request to come together, so that far he does not go. In a short time he will learn that it is not so misly. Don't let him touch the first time. One hundred yards on the street and return, is quite sufficient the first few lessons, no difference whether he leads or not. He will improve each time. This is a good lesson for the master also. After a lesson or two a reliable child will get better results than an older person. Airedales take naturally to children and should be al- lowed to play with them.

Should you be so unfortunate as to own one a few months old that most positively refuses to quit being stubborn on the lead, it is well to change his collar and fasten the end to a clothes line and leave him there for ten minutes or longer. The clothes line has more patience than you and is decidedly more stubborn than the puppies.

After a while you will find the lead and to come when called he may be taken out loose, where there is no danger from rigs or cars, and taught "back" or "to come behind", then expressions being alternated with "he on", "go on" or any phrase you may  54 THE AIREDALE

like. Always use the same words to convey the same meaning. At least till he gets into high school and gets more familiar with your vocabulary, then you may talk as you like. Always talk to, to the dog, and never at him. He will understand that. It is only whistle that is necessary, is when he is quite a distance from you and you wish him to return.

After this, if you have a dog, he may be taken out with the lead in your pocket, a cane or umbrella being used to keep him alongside. This bearing on the off-side of his collar will soon teach him to come back to you. If he does not understand well at first, by him, you have a well broken dog for the street. When taken for his first ride, he should have little in his stomach, as he is not accustomed to riding in any kind of vehicle and will readily learn to ride on most any part of an auto. It will be very easy to teach him to go back again, but if he has been out of your sight for some time and had sufficient training to stay when told, he may be chained in at first, care being taken that he is so fastened that he can not jump out and run away. A good dog will not do this. If you take a camera with all cameras, have some one come to the machine during your absence and after fondling him, to strike him sharply on the nose with a small switch. A very little of this will make him a strictly one- man-dog.

If you have no safe kennel for him and he is prone to run away from home, offer a standing reward to any one who will give him a first chance to get back home before he goes far from home. It will do no good—but an injury—for the owner to whip him for leaving home. Let the other fellow do the whipping and the owner must be contented with the fact that he cannot prevent his son from leaving home, except to go hunting, but when one does get to be a confirmed loafer, he is the very worst yet.

Teaching to Retrace

This is usually quite easy. First teach the youngster to come to you when called and then throw a light rope or roll a small ball, etc., and let him follow it until he comes up close enough to try for it, but give him all the time he needs and as soon as he has taken hold of it, command him to “come.” It is best that his first lessons be given in rather narrow quarters, so that he can not run by you, nor very far away from you. When beginning with a  THE AIREDALE

55

puppy on any new accomplishment, retrieving or what not, always have him entirely alone, and with nothing whatever to distract his attention. If he picks the article up and only brings it a short distance, encourage him and thank him for it. He will improve very fast. Do not work him very long on any thing, he may tire quite quickly. When he has learned to retrieve anything that "goes with" it may be quite a job to make him work well. If he refuses to work, take the article in your hand, try to interest him in it by touching his nose with it and in other ways, then throw it again. If this does not succeed, take the article out of his mouth and give him something else to do. This will make him feel more like working. Frequently to let another dog retrieve in his presence, will start a younger immediately.

At the age of six months, when he is sufficiently able to know what is expected of him and refuses, then go to him, place the object in his mouth and hold jaws together by taking the muzzle between your thumb and forefinger. Then command him to "fetch" and at the same time pull him a few steps forward. Take the object from him and pet him for this. Perhaps after a while he will begin to understand, but do not ask much of him at this time. Don't worry him nor fight with him if he does not work willingly, but wait till he feels more like working. As soon as he is retrieving well, throw the object and catch it in his mouth. Repeat this until he can catch it "dead bird" and as soon as he has it command him to "fetch." A pair of duck wings fastened over a block of wood by rubber will make a nice game for a puppy to retrieve. The same method is used with others. Use the same words in teaching him that will be used in the field. Shoot a twenty-two rifle over him at first and kill a bird, he will do better.

We do not think it wise to wash a puppy under six months of age nor to use him in water. After this he should be taught to retrieve from water. Most of them must take water eagerly, if they are not taught properly they can get into mischief and take water any other way, Wade in and lead him after you. When they have been taught properly to "fetch" it is just as easy for them to retrieve anything that goes with it. Service to you. The morning paper, hoe, shovel, pants, gloves, slippers in the evening, or any old thing that will interest you.

To break a dog from resting on you, put your foot on the toes  56 THE AIREDALE

of his hind feet while his front ones are on you. Two or three lessons will stop this.

It is just as easy for him to learn one language as another, and he may learn different things in different languages. We have taught them three different languages. They may be taught to refuse to speak a certain language by asking, (in that language) if they are going to eat anything, and then giving them a glass of water on him. He will soon learn to look at your hand when he hears the words, and seeing the cup will tick his tail and get out of the way. If you give him a piece of bread, he will take it with a pocket knife or any bright object held in the hand will cause him to scamper away. Later he will need only the words.

If we want to teach them to take game of any kind, they will only need experience, and that you retain control of them. Many will point quail naturally, but if they do not, you must train them to do so by command. Unless it is intended to make a rabbit dog off it is best that they be not permitted to run them.

If the dog is too big game they should not be permitted to run deer. This will interfere with them just as does the running of rabbits by a bird dog.

If a dog is whipped before he is twelve months old it will in

This young bairn tried the large Canadian Lox and then modestly passed with her paw for their phone.

This young bairn tried the large Canadian Lox and then modestly passed with her paw for their phone.  THE AIREDALE 57

many cases take much of his gameness away and this should be avoided. Neither is there any reason in having a young dog tackle a coyote or other fighting animal, just to see if he can whip him. The Airedale is a good fighter, but he learns gradually and save the hard tasks till there is some occasion for it.

On big game

If the bear has been treed or stopped, there is but one thing to do, that is to shoot to kill—not the dogs, but the bear. Shoot for th brain, either through the eye or other vulnerable spot. The best place to put the ball, in this case, is through his hind legs and be sure to break one or both. These are his most dangerous

Four months old Airedale Bitch, Hy Born Lady and quail retrieved on a one day's hunt.  58 THE AIREDALE

weapons. We have broken the lower jaw, but this is not so safe and he may also lead you a merry chase for a distant tree, though they can only run a few hundred yards at top speed. The only gun to use with him is a double-barrelled shotgun, for the writer knows from experience that it is a most difficult undertaking to kill a lion with a shot gun, and we would not care to try our hand at such a thing. To kill a lion with a rifle, shoot in the heart and hit the heart.

When young, acquaint the Airedale with poultry and other stock, and he will soon learn to hunt them. He will have much trouble later. If he kills chickens and you can not break his neck or other way, tie the dead chicken around his neck and let him wear it, for some days, that is, till the French would not eat it. His interest in killing chickens and other animals will effectually divert his attention from killing chickens and other bad habits he may acquire.

The bird dog take so much exercise by playing and are usually in fair condition for hunting, but a soft dog should not be taken out on a hot day and caused to run too far nor to hunt too hard. A dog that has been used to play with children should not be sent into spaniels, pointers and setters. Get some water on his head as soon as possible and he will quickly recover.

Such dogs are very useful in hunting fighting, remaining in the house and guarding it, taking care of children, being a companion for a sick or decept person and a thousand other things will come naturally to an Airedale that is endowed with brains and is properly controlled.  CHAPTER X. KENNELING

The Airedale appears to be able to adapt himself to a greater variety of climates than any other breed. He is at home in hunt- ing-grounds, in the mountains, and in the forests.

For this reason kenneling him is largely a matter of pure and disposition of his owner. This should not be construed to mean that he can be kept comfortable, but rather that his kennel need not be expensive.

Soils that contain much gravel or sand are very much better suited for kennels than are the heavier soils, because that will keep the dog cool. An Airedale can stand a very great deal of cold, but like other dogs dry sleeping quarters are absolutely essential to health and working ability.

It is also well worth mentioning that the amount that he wishes to expend for kennels, will naturally have ideas of his own and will construct them to suit his plans. For this reason we feel that it would be well to give some information on how a per- son may get some ideas in a general way from this chapter. What- ever may be the kind or class of house that is used, it should face south so that the sun may shine upon it during the day, that will admit the sun. It should also be so situated that the early morning sun will strike it. Cold nights are long enough without lengthening them by burying the kennels so situated that the sun cannot strike them until after the dog has been up. We appreciate this early morning sun more than at any other time. It is also a great purifier.

The front or open fronts are to be used, drafts must be avoided. Don't put on one pound of flesh with food and shake two off in a cold kennel.

The temperature that varies from 20 degrees above zero in winter, to 110 above in summer, and after several years of experi- menting with various kinds of houses, have decided that the open fronts are best for all purposes. The house is built of stone, as herein mentioned. The house that we have finally adopted, is about 3 feet wide, some feet long and nearly 5 feet high inside. The longer side is faced South and is entirely open. All other parts are made very close. The floor is detachable, as is also a  60 THE AIREDALE

A row of five kennels. This photo does not do them justice.

second floor (or shelf) that is placed a little over two feet from the floor. Grown dogs usually prefer to sleep on the shelf. On unusually cold nights a curtain made from a gummy sack is tucked on the front at the top, protecting the dog part; or a partial board is put up against the wall to the floor, but neither answer and neither appear to be absolutely necessary. The yards in front of these houses are six by twelve feet and are enclosed with wire fencing. The ground in front of the house is shallow ground is of wood and eighteen inches below ground is of redwood. These fences are about seven feet high and yards are covered with pine shingles. The water is carried from the outside place in front and partially over the houses and so arranged that the water will be carried to the roofs of the houses and then to the outside yard where it will run off into the ground. The tops of the yards dry and admits the morning sun, but excludes the noon- day sun in summer.

A dog can live with two individuals that will kennel well together, are placed in each apartment. Two will provide more heat in winter and will be more quiet at night, than will one dog alone. Puppies are given a little more protection in winter and several are put out at night.

Five or six of these kennels are made to open into a larger exer- cise yard, into which all or part of the dogs are liberated at least morning and evening, care being taken to avoid fights.  THE AIREDALE 61

The gates have springs on them and latches that are self-fastening. Such kennels are safe at all times. The Airedale is a climber, a digger and many are very clever in handling fastenings on doors and gates. The entire kennels are enclosed by a solid fence seven feet high, with two feet of poultry setting above this, at exposed points.

Every kennel should be provided with suitable hospital quarters that can be kept clean and dry. In the winter months, when sifting one may be kept entirely free from dampness. This may not be needed very frequently, but when the occasion arises, it is needed regularly to keep the kennel in good condition.

Concrete under the buildings and in a portion of each yard, aids in cleaning and in sanitation, as well as keeping the dogs free from bad condition. Soft dirt in yards and runs will give you loose feet.

Some digging is advisable, it keeps them occupied, teaches them how to dig and gives them exercise. It also improves the appearance of the foot. Too much of it for a youngster might have a tendency to throw the elbows out and spoil an otherwise good front.

When digging is at points where it should not be done, drive wooden pegs, one inch square and eight to twelve inches in length, into the ground, leaving the tops flush with the top of the ground. The dog should be taught to scratch between these pegs and unable to scratch between them. Being flush with the ground they are not visible and do not interfere in any way.

When straw is used for bedding, if they are kept, a barrel placed on its side and made steady, and supplied with straw, will provide quite a comfortable kennel. In extremely cold weather, a cushion should be placed at the end of the barrel and a little mud thrown over it, to enable the dog to get in and out of it. The barrel should be in a shed or otherwise protected.

Where straw is used for bedding it should be frequently changed and thoroughly aired. It should be aired by churning, of course, the forenoon of a good day, to do the washing.

We use very little straw for bedding. One or two gunny sacks, filled with sawdust or hay, make quite a comfortable bed. A compressed paper placed inside them, make quite a comfortable bed, is convenient, inexpensive and sanitary. When the papers become foul they  62

THE AIREDALE

are burned and the sacks are hung on a wire fence and the hose turned on them.

Tobacco stems may be placed between the sheets of paper to drive the fleas away.

Corn-cobs and shipping cartons are obtained from the grocer and cut into sheets the proper size to fit easily into the gummies.

In summer, if the Airedale is working, he will stand the heat nicely, but in winter, when the temperature is low and air is scarce, if available, it must be provided. A safely constructed tunnel is just to his liking, though there are many other ways of furnishing him with shade.

In the arrangement and construction of the kennels, care should be taken to avoid as many steps on the part of the care-taker as possible. The food should be kept on one side of the table on which the food is prepared, to the place where the food is stored, and in turn, their proximity to the kennel gates.

Kennel yards should be kept clean at all times. Proper feeding is important. Dogs turned out for a little run while the cleaning is being done. Nursing bitches and young puppies that are fed, should have the very first attention in the morning and before they go to bed.

This cleaning is a very small job, if a grain scoop or large short handled shovel is provided and a suitable broom to sweep all objects off the floor. The soil should be removed from time to time so that will keep the coats clean, materially aid in avoiding tape-worms, greatly assist in sanitation and cause less disinfectants to be needed.

When a new dog is brought in, it should be given a bath and if long in use, the soil in the yards should be removed and new earth placed therein. Sanitation and sunshine are great requisites in a successful kennel.

No lamp should be used around the kennel, electric lights above the yards and in the buildings are best, but if not available, lanterns should be used. Even these should not be set on a board nor near any water.

Pitch-forks should not be thrown down nor left where a dog may knock them over.

A dog should be kept in the residence during the day and then thrown into a cold kennel at night. Either keep him out of doors at all times, or house him at night fully in keeping with his occupation by day, otherwise pneumonia may result.  THE AIREDALE 63

Don't give him a warm bath and then throw him out of doors to dry. If he is well groomed he will not need a bath.

Disinfectants

If the kennels are well cleaned morning and evening, more frequently, if necessary and convenient; the earth spaded at inter- vals; sunshine admitted; houses and bedding kept clean and the dog's food fresh, there will not be much need for disinfectants, though at times they are needed.

We do not favor the lavish use of any disinfectants, no difference how much or little is used. The dog's own natural cleanliness will be such that any that has been made or will ever be made by "mere man." A little slaked lime thrown around will act nicely.

A type of house that is good for most any climate. It is built on a foundation about three feet in every direction and is four inches from the ground. Roof is detachable. It is espe- cially good for hot climates. The door is always open. The floor is covered with straw or hay. The dog may be kept together closely; in very bad weather a curtain may be latched over the door.  64 THE AIREDALE

We are of the opinion that all disinfectants are not honestly advertised, by the manufacturers, and that more harm can result from their use, than can benefit us. We are told by reliable veterinarians that the use of any kind of carbolic acid for kennel dogs and we believe that some of those extensively advertised for kennel use, have crude carbolic acid for a basis. In the year 1918 we had a case of a dog which was very ill and during the season of several months that we have no rain, it appeared to be satisfactory, but when the first shower came the dogs fell sick and died. The autopsy showed that the developments showed that carbolic crystal had been forming during the dry season and the rain made them into carbolic acid, (as to be seen in the picture) which was absorbed into their stomachs. The result was that we had about twenty five dogs and puppies killed and injured. The older ones lived but were injured and the puppies were killed. It was extremely difficult to eradicate it from the kennels. We believe there are some good disinfectants made.

Our experiment was conducted with a large myrtle trees of an unknown species, and we find that they are very good as a disinfectant and deodorizer. The twigs are cut occasionally and thrown in the yards and houses and when half dry, are raked up and burned. We find that this is very effective and that the fragrance will destroy all other odors. Dogs kennelled near these trees are also free from fleas and we recently smoked one, that had quite a bad case of fleas, after smoking her near the bark, she was much improved in a few hours and soon convalesced.

We have only tried this experiment a few months, but are great- ly impressed with its results.

If any reader wishes to try this evergreen our kennel man has gathered a limited quantity of the seed (acorna) and will be pleased to send post paid six acorns for twenty-five cents, or one dozen for forty cents. Address, Kennelman, 2225 White Ave., Fresno, Ca.  CHAPTER XI. DISEASES

Like punishment, we dislike very much to mention medicines. A great many persons are prone to administer either entirely too liberally. Frequently a good "bait" of green grass will do a dog more good than much medicines. In many cases where he is in danger, take it, a good bit of exercise will also be a valuable adjunct. Hence the truth that prevention is better than cure must be resorted to.

We believe that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, when this prevention is had by keeping the dogs properly and in condition.

For all diseases and ailments there are medicines offered by veterinarians, druggists, and manufacturers, and the remedies mentioned by us are to be used, if preferred, or the others are not available.

We could be written on diseases and remedies, but our remarks will be as concise as possible, and are based on our experience only. We might add, that in the several years that we have been engaged in the practice of veterinary medicine, no disease has been cured by any medicine. Good nursing should be the rule and feature treating in any disease, and not dosing with medicine.

The giving of medicine to a sick dog, should be gone about as quickly as possible and the patient worried as little as possible. A nice little caress and other evidence of interest in the invalid, may do fully as much toward this recovery, as will the medicine.

To give medicine to a dog, first hold his mouth open with the teeth, thus forming a pocket, into which the liquid is poured.

If the head is held up, the liquid will drain through the teeth and fall down his throat. Hold the dog's head down with the thumb and finger and then pushed into the throat with the index finger. Notice the dog for a few moments and see that he does not swallow. If he does not eat anything after taking medicines of either kind may be given in the food; provided the appetite is not off and the medicine such that will not be eaten in food. Many things may be most easily given by placing them within a piece of lean beef or liver.  G6 THE AIREDALE

Distemper

By many, this is a most dreaded disease, yet we never try to avoid it and believe that the sooner the dog has it, the better. As a rule, a dog will have distemper but once, and if a youngster, is constantly exposed to the air, he will probably contract this disease that is most sure to visit him some time. The germ is in the form of a microbe: and may be conveyed in many ways.

Symptoms

This disease is so common and so familiar to all who have dogs, that it seems almost unnecessary to say much about the symptoms, though they does appear in different forms and in various degrees of severity.

The most frequent symptoms are, first the dog will become lan- guid, and will not eat; then he will go out into the sun, elsewhere; then will become hot and drink quantities of water. A little later discharges will come from the nose and eyes, especially from the eyes; then the dog will become very dull and dead and he will have no appetite. Become nervous and excitable, and when the case is decidedly developed, he may become quite "cranky" and display a very different disposition from his natural one; or he may become very quiet and not show any signs at all; but this does not mean distemper. A cold will not inconvenience him very much and aside from sniffling a little it will soon dis- appear as quickly as it came on.

When his nose is cold and moist, the dog is not very sick, but if the nose is dry and warm, the ears and lower limbs either hot or cold, then it must be quite sick. These symptoms are usually found in distemper.

Treatment

There may be preventatives, but the only way to cure a case of distemper, is to cure it before the dog gets it. That is to have him in such condition that the disease can not seriously affect him. It will surely run its course, whether that be a long one or a short one.

Nursing is what the patient needs, together with the conserving of his strength and vitality. Distemper, of itself, will not kill but many complications that frequently arise, may do so. When  THE AIREDALE 67

we see a case of distemper among our dogs, he is at once given a good dose of castor oil, nearly half a tea-cupful for a grown one. The dog is then put to bed, and kept as quiet and free from excitement as possible. Plenty of clean water is supplied and sometimes a "chunk" of brimstone is given him. He is fed on his usual food at the usual feeding time, only in small quantities, and if he does not eat, the food is removed in a few minutes. He is encouraged and petted, and told that we know he is sick, but that he will soon be well again.

A charcoal, pepton and bismuth tablet is given three times a day and if the remains cold, or the weather is against him, a blanket must be placed over him. The dog's condition is quite likely to set in and this must be kept off. In extreme cases, it is sometimes necessary to take the patient in the residence of the owner, and to keep him there until he recovers. This must not be put out of doors till he is fully recovered, for a relapse is most likely to be fatal. Quinine may be given to keep up his spirits.

The charcoal, bismuth and pepton tablets will benefit his stomach and bowels and get him in condition to eat, as soon as it can be done. The dog must be kept quiet and strong enough and will proceed to combat the disease, therefore needs encouragement.

He will probably eat some finely chopped raw lean meat or liver, the first thing. This should be given in very small quantities at first, and gradually increased. It is best to give it to him when he begins eating, don't crowd him and throw the stomach all off, take it easy, he has lots of time to get his flesh back. Keep him warm and dry.

If he becomes emaciated and very weak, it may be well to force a raw egg, or a raw egg and a little brandy, down him gently.

It is advisable to call a veterinarian. In such an extreme case it is really best to call a veterinarian.

In our experience with Airedales we seldom have to do very much about giving the castor oil, though we have had extreme cases in other breeds.

The past winter we had a bunch of puppies to have distemper when wo and half months of age; they ran out in the rain and were given no shelter at all; except, of course, were dogs watched. They were kept in a kennel having a warm house and the several  68 THE AIREDALE

of them together provided the necessary heat. They never got entirely off their feed and in only a few days were fully recov- ered. We have to sew a blanket on at night and have the dog tea'd up in the morning, and then take her out as usual. If the dog has distemper in the least severity, and is permitted to take exercise as soon as he is anxious for it, and is then allowed to cool down again, she will recover in a few days. Moral: Don't let him have any exercise till you know he is fully recovered, and then play the banker's plan on him, and add three days of grace. Very little exercise at first, will be fully as much as he needs, but after a week or ten days, give him some new ideas, be a little indulgent with him for a while. He may be some months before he is fully himself again.

A bitch that has had distemper during her first period, than at any other time, and if she does have distemper she will most likely not have any puppies, if bred.

Pneumonia

Is an inflammation of the lung tissues and may follow distemper; an injury to the lungs; or if it has been retrieving from water in cold weather, it may be caused by the dog being wet, sana, or other rig and chilled by riding home, and then thrown out in the cold to sleep. If he does not develop pneumonia he will miss a pleasant day's work. The dog should be kept in warm residence during the day, giving him a warm bath and then putting him out in the cold to sleep has caused pneumonia.

Symptoms

Patient very cold and listless, head down, pained when chest is lifted or interfered with, in the afternoon becomes worse and manifests a deep breathing and if one ear is placed near lungs a wheezing may be heard. Later stage, will sit on haunches with chin extended and difficult breathing, wheezing or rattling in lungs more defined.

Treatment

Here again is another case for nursing and care, rather than for drugs. No need to offer food, yet something in the way of warm soap or milk will be of advantage when he will take it. Don't  THE AIREDALE

69

offer the usual kennel food, for he is disgusted with that and every- thing else. Go to the trouble of making a small quantity of beef or chicken broth (don't let him have any chicken bones) and don't be disappointed when he does not eat it, but try again, with- out breaking his heart by giving him too much. Give him rabbits three times a day and an occasional quinine, (2 or 3 grains) to stimulate and keep him warm. Keep him as quiet as possible. If he is not well enough to go out, give him a bath, and have good pure air and by all means keep him warm at all times. Sew two blankets on him, if necessary, and then cover him over with blankets. If he is very ill, do not put him down without reason cases they will not lie down at all and it is a bit difficult for a puppy to get them down, without great pain to them. Pressure on the chest must be avoided. Get him to sleep, that will benefit him more than anything else. If he is very ill, give him water to drink, let him have water that the chill has been taken from. He may not want to sleep without being alongside his caretaker or master, but this is only temporary. The dog will make a good improve- ment in him and it is worth your while to see that he does sleep. After this treat the same as in extreme case of distemper and do not have a relapse.

Chorea

Is usually an after-effect of distemper or may be caused by worms; is a twitching of most any or all parts of the body. The only treatment that we know of, is to get your dog in condition. Give him plenty of fresh air, give wholesome and appetizing foods Free him of worms, if that is the cause. The case may be quite obstinate and recovery very slow.

Worms

In the matter of puppies having or not having worms, there is no room for argument. No difference how well or sleek they may appear, there are always worms in their system. That is true for all worms as described in our chapter on "Raising Puppies."

In dogs the symptoms are, dead coat, discharge from the eyes, rashes upon the skin and none at others.

If the dog is fed along the line given in our chapter on "Fever," he will probably get rid of them without doing, unless perhaps it may be a tape worm.  70 THE AIREDALE

If it is thought best to give medicines, there are many well advertised preparations. If these are not available the following treatment will usually get results.

Do not give any medicine, but give a liberal dose of Olive Oil. The following morning, give about twenty grains of powdered Areca Nut, in capsules. Follow this in one hour, with at least two tablespoonfuls of castor oil. Feed light one hour later. Re-peat in ten days or so.

For tape worm, treat as above, except give a capsule of Male Fern, instead of Areca Nut.

The traveller who appears a good bough aitch and when she reached us, after a few thousand miles of travel, she was breaking out with mange, was generally out of condition and had worms. We gave her a liberal dose of olive oil and castor oil, and of internal parasites. We also tried several remedies for mange without success. Finally we made quite use of salt and sulphur and had some success. We then decided to try the following method of proceeding to dress herself, by licking this mixture from her coat. In a few hours she got rid of a surprising lot of round worms and was cured.

We have given a teaspoonful of sulphur in morning feed for several days, and then followed with Areca nut and secured a tape worm.

Keeping the kennels well swept and the dogs free from fleas will materially lessen the chances from tape worms, still they may come from raw meat or water. Unless the head is removed, they will pass through the body.

When some of the white flat segments, about three-fourths of an inch in length are passed, it is safe to assume that the tape is present. The dog should be kept on a good diet until the dog should have a week or ten days to recuperate, between treatments.

Fleas

Are a source of great annoyance to the dog when his coat is infested with them and they have the reputation of being great carriers of diseases and the champion conveyors of tape worms. Many things are said to be suitable for their destruction, but the most economical and satisfactory way that we have discovered, is get a can of genuine Pyrethrum (insect) powder, puncture the  THE AIREDALE 71

top in a half dozen places with a very small nail. Put the dog on the grooming table, or his side, shake some of the powder on his throat, holding the other hand over eye and ear sprinkle the side, belly, legs and tail. Then brush the powder down into his coat, brush the dog over with his other side up and sprinkle as before. Then have dog stand up and sprinkle from top of head to tail, gently brush this into coat also. Then begin with the front legs, brush under the neck, then brush the head had been used and that you were only grooming him. Brush under-neck of body and inside of legs. By this time the fleas will begin to die off and will be more easily removed by hand-killing. Additional powder may be applied where coat is heaviest and brushed out a minute later. Don't be in too much of a hurry to get the dog off of the table, for the fleas will continue to fall until they are killed in 3 days later and at such intervals thereafter as may be necessary.

Kerosene may also be used, moistening a cloth with it and brushing it over the coat.

Something should be used on young nursing puppies, rid the mother of fleas before whelping and see that her quarters are free from fleas.

Salt scattered around the houses and kennels, especially in their probable breeding places, and then wet down, is a good way to stop the breeding of fleas. Tobacco stems used in the same way salt are also excellent.

When the weather will permit, the kennels should be sprinkled once a day. This will have quite a tendency to keep fleas down, but not long after they come.

Mange

Not all skin trouble is mange. True mange may be usually detected by quite a disagreeable odor and is different in appearance from other skin troubles. We are frank to say that our experi- ence with mange is very limited, but we have had one case of it, and we bought that one. Were unable to affect a cure and gave the dog away. We do think though that the treatment herein after mentioned for eczema, itching and mange is worth trying. The action of the liver into action will aid materially any other external treatment.  72 THE AIREDALE

Eczema

This is most likely to appear in warm weather and in some instances is quite stubborn. It is said to be caused by indigestion and consequent "bad" blood. Lack of exercise also figures in quite largely.

Treatment should consist of a complete change of diet and conditions, as far as possible. In addition to the treatments hereinafter given, it is frequently best to give two or three good live poulties each day, for two or three days, and to thoroughly cleanse the kennels and bedding, so that they may be well aired.

Some kennel men make a rule of giving a teaspoonful of sulphur each week, to all dogs, as a tonic and blood purifier. We acknowledge this remedy, the following treatment from E. Blunt, Esq., of England.

Contents of Mixture:

Oil Tar	4 ounces
Gil Turpentine	4 " "
Oil Glycerine	4 " "
Parrafin Oil	4 " "
Cocoonar Oil	2 " "
Precipitated Sulphur	4 " "

Thoroughly mix all rubs well into skin with a brush. Do not wash it off during the course the dog will hold with this on him. Also give one full teaspoon, each, of sulphur and magnesium, in food for three or four mornings and then skip for a week.

We are indebted to Mr. Woodcock, of England, for the following ciniments and remedies which he has found very beneficial in cases of eczema mentioned above.

Carbolic Acid	1 dram
Creosote	4 " "
Sulphite Sulphur	4 " "
Oil Eucalyptus	10 drops
Whale Oil	To make eight ounces.

Shake well and apply to eruptions. Keep them out of dust. Bathing for skin troubles, or other reasons is undesirable. While an adult may be bathed, puppies under six months should not be bathed.  THE AIREDALE

73

Bowel Troubles

These may assume slightly different appearances. In any instance it is well to give a charcoal, bismuth and pepsin tablet three times a day, and in addition thereto, either two tablespoons of earth oil or one tablespoon of castor oil, mixed with water or dry. Water in which pear barley has been well soaked, will do instead of the rice and this mixed with boiled milk should be given when the dog is suffering somewhat of a troublesome stage. In such cases solid foods should be avoided. Keep the dog quiet and free from exercise.

Wounds when Hurting

The most satisfactory salve we have ever had, was made by cutting some balms into a paste, and adding a few of a good live balman tree, placing them in a small pan with badger oil, then slitting the blisters and slightly cooking the mixture, mixing thoroughly. Then strain the bark out. Bear oil, vaseline or lard may be used with it.

Ear Canker

The first sign that are usually noticed of this are, the dog scratching at its head, and often carrying his head to the side. By gently pressing and working the lower part of ear proper, a cracking sound may be heard within. Sometimes red sore pus may be seen at the entrance to the ear.

Treatment

Thoroughly cleanse the internal ear with peroxide, or by carefully bathing with luke warm water and cattle or reliable medicated soap. Use a sponge or soft cloth and go carefully, as it will likely give the dog some pain. Discover if possible any hot spots on the skin around the ear. If so, apply a poultice of borax or nearly so, place in the ear half one to three teaspoon of powdered borax. On the second day, use borax without again bathing. In severe cases give internal treatment for skin trouble.

Are usually a bugbear. In a recent report by the Superintendent of the New York Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, we read that in twenty years 150 employees had received about 30,000 bites and not a single case of hydrophobia had re-  74 THE AIREDALE

sulled from the bites. The wounds were all cleansed, cauterized and dressed.

Condition Powder

If others are not obtainable, a very good one may be made by carefully rubbing three ounces of wood ashes and charcoal through a sieve. Then add two ounces each of sulphur, powdered coperas and salt. This powder should be used to serve the second time. Give teaspoon in food morning and evening.

Swimming

If one is situated so that an Airedale can be given a swim occasionally, say twice each week, it will tend to keep him in the best of condition and have him ever ready to retrieve from water. He should be allowed to run, or roll on grass, till dry. Three have since become first-price winners.  CHAPTER XII. COLOR AND OTHER POINTS

We are told that the original color of the body was "Badger grey" or "Bronze Grizzle."

Among the American breeders in America the idea seems to pre- vail that they are going to breed them right away, with the black bodies and get entirely away from the grizzlies. This is no easy undertaking, for there are not many black grizzlies, but rather the oldest black and red were bred for years with the lighter colored jackets.

By this time, being equal, the dog with the black saddle will win. But everything else is not going to be equal and while we do prefer the black saddle, we would rather have a real dog than to have a color. On this subject, one of the very best judges on this question, and one who has been breeding dogs for a quarter of a century, writes us: "I am not going so much on jet black and rich tan. Generally these have a foreign expression to the breed, and I think it is better to have a more natural expression."

On this same subject, an American who has bred them for many years says: The grizzles almost always have more terrier qual- ity than any other color. A dog with a jet black saddle and rich or golden tan; and a hard coat will some day be bred, it can be clearly seen that all are not in favor of it, and that the task is not easy.

Nor do we believe that the man who breeds them only for such purposes is going to produce him. He may produce a dog having the color and other points, but he is not going to be a terrier. For example, if we take a dog which has been born and have been kenneled and shown only, this dog is not going to show the terrier quality that is desired. Work and training is what will keep him true to his type. We want a dog with a natural expression. A dog without intelligence has an entirely blank face, or expres- sion.

We note recently that one authority calls the breeders attention to the fact that, the standard calls for tan and not red.

In this connection, the narrow skull is not going to be produced with the required intelligence, without work, and training. We want a narrow skull, but want something inside of it.  76 THE AIREDALE

Most Airedales will go red up the back when a few years of age, but the standard makes no provision for this. Since this is not considered a fault, it is left to the discretion of the judge as one of the last faults to be eradicated. A dog that is sufficiently good will usually attain his championship, before he goes off in this respect.

The Airedale Terrier Standard

Head---Long, with flat skull, not too broad between the ears and narrowing slightly to the eyes, free from wrinkle. Stop hardly pronounced, but sufficient to give a well defined power- ful, well filled up before the eyes, lips tight. Ears V-shaped with a side carriage, small but not out of proportion to the size of the dog. Ears black or dark brown. The eyes small and dark in color, not prominent, but expressive and intelligent. The teeth strong and level.

Neck---Should be of moderate length and thickness, gradually widening toward the shoulders and free from throatiness.

Shoulders and Chest---Shoulders long and sloping well into the back, shoulder blades flat. Chest deep, but not wide. Hindquarters---Shoulder blades long and sloping well down. Hocks well let down. The tail set on high and carried gayly, but not curled over the back.

Legs---The legs perfectly straight, with plenty of bone. Feet small and round with a good depth of pad.

Coat---Hard and wiry, and not so loose as to appear ragged It should be short, straight and close, covering the body well all over the body and legs.

Color---The head and ears, with the exception of dark markings on each ear of skull, should be tan, the ears being of a darker shade than the rest of the head. The body should be black or brindle also tan, the body black or dark grizzle.

Size---Dogs 40 to 45 pounds weight. Bitches slightly less. (Undersized specimens are to be severely handicapped---Author.)

Scales of Points
Head, ears, eyes, mouth.	20
Neck, shoulders and chest.	10
Body.	10
Hindquarters and stern.	5

 THE AIREDALE

Legs and feet	15
Coat	15
Color	10
General character, expression	15
Total	100

77  CHAPTER XIII. SHOWING

In these days of dog evolution, or breeding dogs for prizes and profits on an extensive scale, the "handling" of dogs in the show ring has developed into an art. In this way, it is of paramount importance that the owner of a dog should have some knowledge of showing, whether as a hobby supplementary to their daily toll or avocation, or whether as a profession, to which dog showing lately devolved. Some post themselves up to the requirements of the show ring with a view to possessing a good dog, for it is often the case that a moderate dog well tutored and "handled," will beat a better dog indifferently shown.

Whatever a dog may be at home or before going into the ring, or when he comes out of it, it is what he looks like at that critical moment that decides upon the relative merits of the dogs before him.

The writer has tied a great many ribbons on horses and other live stock, and I can assure you that they cannot be entirely out of it the next day. Again we have seen those that were out of it today, come back and win first tomorrow. The same is true in judging dogs. A dog may look very good one time and leave the dog so that he will show for all that is in him and at all times.

Since there are so many different temperaments in them, it is not easy to have them do this. Schooling and educating is what counts.

To make a show dog, one should begin on the puppy when he is quite young, getting him out frequently and so that he will stand up and go well for his age.

When he is a few months old, put him upon the table and teach him to pose, by placing his legs in good position, the hind ones a trifle forward, and the front ones slightly apart. Then take hold of his tail up. Talk to him and go easy with him. When you have given him a short lesson, thank him for it and give a little longer rest than usual. After two hours later. At the conclusion, each time encourage him and in a very short time he will pose after your hands are removed.  THE AIREDALE

When he is out on the leash and sees another dog, encourage him a little by telling him to "watch him," or something similar. Let him think that he can "lick" any dog living, but don't let him do so, for the dog will be sorry. He will then all the more "snap" out of him.

Another system is to live one hour. Take two or three pounds of bread and bake it for half an hour, then place inside the oven and bake the same length of time and have it entirely dry when finished. Cut into cubes the size of dice, take a handful in your hand and throw them at the dog, who will run away from anything that will distract his attention. Take lead in one hand and a piece of liver in the other and tease him, by letting him smell the liver, and then throw it at him with the lead. Again throw the liver on the ground ahead of him and let him pull hard to get it. Stop this part of the education as soon as he begins to pull too hard, and then show the elbow out and cause him to stand awkwardly. The idea is to get him to stand entirely still, lest he hold loosely and be at attention all the time. You should think as though you were going to throw the liver to him. It is not necessary to use empty stomachs for these lessons and occasionally let him get a piece of liver till all is consumed.

The best way to tell one how to show a dog, they must learn it. One thing is very important, when you are in the ring, keep one eye on the judge and two eyes on your dog, never mind what happens to your dog, only watch the judge.

It is by far best to have your dog show on his "metal" if pos- sible, and if he does this and wants to whip the other dogs, you should not try any tricks that will disturb him.

The judge will stand facing the block and when your dog is called to be closely looked over, take him around the ring to where he is facing the judge and then straight to the black.

While it may be well to lift him up by the leash and set him  86 THE AIREDALE

down squarely on his feet, that his front will appear at its best, it is all wrong to hang him up all the time. It may be necessary to have a dog hanging by the ears all the time, but don't pull his throat, ears and neck all out of line by pulling his head. A judge, familiar with the game, is going to be fooled in this way. He will learn to look for a front, pasterns and feet the dog has, before he ties the ribbon.

Don't work the dog when the judge is busy with others, that will only tire him and cause him to be sluggish when the critical time comes.

Valuable dogs should not be left for the average show attendant to water and feed either look after your dog personally or pay some one to do so. The dog should be fed well, not too full, to have some meat for him, as he will probably not eat the biscuits, and will become too gaunt. On the other hand he should not be left hungry.

Most Airedales should be shown quite heavy in flesh, especially one that is inclined to long in back.

It is only to make a pet of an Airedale that is to be a worker or show specimen. That is, we mean, do not be constantly pet-

A Young Bitch of splendid type.  THE AIREDALE

81

ting him so that he looks for it all the time and comes around and rubs against you or lies down to be petted. He will have no snap in his mouth if this is done. Let him be up and coming, ready for a foot race with you or to kill the neighbor's cat, whip his dog, or any old thing, just so he is on his feet and alert.

Trimming

No difference how good he may be, all of them need some trimming to get them in condition for showing. Those with correct coats need very little trimming, but those with extra hair visible and is generally practiced. The object being to bring out the strong points, and when necessary, to have a good new coat at the time of showing. This can only be learned by practice and there is room for no little skill in properly doing it.

We know of three ways to remove the surplus or dead hair. By pulling it off with the hand, by using a special comb, and by using a knife that is not too sharp, and catching the hair between the blade and the thumb. Scissors should not be used, because they cut too deep and that show the dog's skin exposed, will not remove the dead hair. In this way much work can be done with them.

If a new body coat is needed, this part of the dog should be shaved about two months before the show. Those who grow their coats rapidly will not need quite so much time, while those who grow slowly will require fully this length of time. The fin- gers are usually shaved from the shoulder down to the belly at the waist, (this will deepen the brisket,) and of the sheath, may be done about a week before the show.

The teeth should be trimmed to two weeks only are required to grow a new coat. In some instances the skull will require only a week or ten days.

The ears should be trimmed with small scissors, three weeks before showing, running all the hair around them at a point where they come in contact with the ground and just above this point. The intention is to have them appear smooth and well pad- ded. The hair on top of the head and along its sides are long, these should also be cut, but not close enough to bleed. His nails will be conditioned and his feet tightened up and improved, by exercising on paving or hard road.  82 THE AIREDALE

Hy-Born Bells 190014 By-Born Bells 190015 The author thinks as great as has yet been produced in combining show points and extreme Airedale qualities.

Excepting the feet, no trimming is to be done below the elbows and hind legs, but a little trimming is to be done at the eyes. In all cases the trimming is to be done so that the longer hair graduates evenly to the shorter hair, and so that the tan will meet the darker coat properly.

In trimming the whiskers are left untouched, while the skull and throat are striped quite closely, the object being to have the muzzle and foreface as strong as possible and to strengthen the appearance of the head. A perfect head would b in the shape of an oblong square, whether viewed from in front or from the side, the mouth being well set back, with a slight curve on either side being straight, also top one of the head, except a possible fullness at the eyes. The ears should be well trimmed and if at all heavy, especially when they are bent to the edges, that the ears may appear as small as possible.

The tail may be lengthened an inch by leaving the long hairs  THE AIREDALE 83

extending beyond the bone; or it may be shortened by removing these and slightly pointing the tail, that the end may appear properly, at the very end of the bone. Usually the top of the head is broadened with the top of the head. The hind-quarters may be broader than appears, but becoming the tail smaller.

The dogs that are short on furnishing the foreface and front legs, will most likely have more when two years of age. In fact, most Airedales are at their best, as to show points, when around two years old. Slow finishers are not made up until this age is reached.

It is very desirable to have a dog with plenty of whisker, yet this is what we strive for—not too much whisker, but enough. As a rule, an abundance of whiskers are undesirable.

For two or three weeks before showing, the dog should be kept kennelled and given most of his exercise on the lead, that he may become accustomed to being handled. An hour may be spent profitably morning and evening, in this way.

During this time he should be thoroughly groomed each time he comes out of the kennel for five ten minutes hand rubbing for the side length. The coat may be much improved by placing a raw egg into food once or twice each day.

When you are defeated in the ring, take your medicine and carefully study the dog that beat yours and learn how to beat him next time.  CHAPTER XIV. SELLING AND SHIPPING

If one is in the business for profit as well as pleasure, or is even planning to have his kennels pay their selling, selling is a very impor-tant matter for the breeder. It leads the breeder into injurious paths that of selling some inferior dog or puppy for more than it is worth. This, in the long run will not pay, if one incurs the loss of a customer. The customer must be made to squarely in the face. It is much better to give each customer a little more for his money than he expects, than to get a little more money for his money than he expects. You will have a com-pletely satisfied customer. When your business is conducted along these lines and you frequently hear of persons, of whom you do not know personally, saying that they would like to buy at your place, you get through and write to the 'Reliable Kennels' you will buy there and get what you are looking for, if you want a good cane and your money will be returned to you. You will find that you can sell in va n and that you are reaping some reward. This has hap-pened frequently and will happen to any one who breeds them right and sells them worth the money.

To do so requires careful preparation. You must have the stock to breed from; you must know the breed and how to mate them for results; you must study and be able to know what you are offering; you must be able to judge the value of your stock as to values and as to changes in fashions and other conditions.

If you wish to improve your stock, it is best to hold onto the good puppies until they are fully grown. Then they may be sold, or sell them for a rather long figure, and be unab $ab$ to replace them.

Puppies that are intended for sale, should be so fed for what they are worth when they grow up, or may be worth later. That second value may come and it may not.

The seller must know his stock, and if he will take the best of care of it, it will be in good condition. If he does not take care of the coat enough to have it in good condition, the buyer will be better pleased than if a superior dog is sent, that is out of condition. If the dog should be out of condition at the time it is offered, the buyer should be told about it. If any part of the condition from the seller, should not enter in to the consideration at all.  THE AIREDALE 85

This old world is getting smaller every day and distance is being constantly shortened.

The man who has a good dog and wants a good one, will be willing to pay a fair price for him but the ordinary buyer is mainly concerned with general appearance and attractiveness.

The breeder, on the other hand, is interested in the quality of the breeder and yet is good and good for utility purposes, may be sold un-named and without pedigree. Yet if your breeders are good they must be named and pedigreed. The breeder who does not sell his dogs will not be much if any of such sales. They may come in a case where one has bought a bitch in whelp, or even one and bred her to his own stock. If some of his breeders were born, no difference would exist between them and the rest of the litter, most likely to "breed back", and it is these that may be sold as suggested.

Shipping

Judging from the crates that we see dogs shipped in some times, it would seem that the shippers were more interested in enabling their dogs to travel than in the welfare of the dogs themselves and of dogs and his customers welfare. The writer bought a 40 pound bitch that was crated at 125 pounds when she could have been crated at 100 pounds. No need to pay ten to fifteen cents per pound on unnecessary lumber.

The ignorance that is displayed in many ways in shipping, by persons who do not know something about it, is astonishingly astounding. This is one point that affects the dog's nerves, but we shall refrain from "roasting" such persons-though they really need a brutal roasting-and will try to tell how we think shipping should be done.

Don't ship a dog so that he will arrive at his destination, or at some branch junction, on Sunday and be compelled to remain there until Monday.

Ship as promptly as possible after the order has been received', and if possible, advise the customer in advance, when to expect his purchase. The Crate

A slightly larger crate is required for long shipments than for shorter ones and if the dog is to remain in the crate more than twenty four hours, a false or inner bottom should be put in and  86 THE AIREDALE

fully arranged for drainage. There should be a space of fully a half-inch between this and the outer bottom of crate. This false bottom should be securely fastened, for fear the crate gets upset by accident, or is thrown over by some human who should be in an irate mood.

The crate for a grown Airedale should be 28 to 30 inches high, 18 to 22 inches wide, and 30 to 42 inches in length. Roof should be tight to protect from rain, and the sides should be well fitted. If the two inch space should be left on each side immediately under the roof, the length of the crate. This will provide sufficient circulation of air, and will all having ventilation shut off by other merchandise in the cars.

If the dog is going any distance a hinged door should be made at one end of the crate, that can be brought through the mesh to feed, water, clean out the crate, and give the dog a little exercise.

Crate should be placed on the dog and a chain fastened on the outside of the door, in a very convenient manner for removing. The kennel name of the dog should be placed on the top of the door so those handling and receiving him, may call him by his familiar name.

A vessel for water should be conveniently arranged, yet so fastened that it will not be constantly turning over or spilling. Sufficient food for several days' rations should be provided, of which, is securely fastened to the end of the crate. The best rations for the journey, are dog biscuit and corn bread. The latter being more palatable than biscuit.

Whatever may be the size of the dog, one of the most necessary things to be considered in crating, is that he has enough room for his head and neck. It is not uncommon for dogs to have seen a puppy that was unable to get his head up for a week, after being shipped in a low crate.

Good straw or hay for bedding, and allowance should be made for it breaking up and being removed.

Always teach the dog to lead before shipping.

At the present time, the express rate on dogs is one cent and one-half per mile. Dogs returning from shows carry three-fourths merchandise rate.

In some cases it is to the sellers advantage to advise the pro- prietor buyer, what the probable express charges will be.  THE AIREDALE 87

Carriers are obligated to deliver at the end of their routes, dogs, in the same condition as received, except in case of damage resulting in some unavoidable manner, such as an act of the dog.

Champion Midland Royal  CHAPTER XV. ADVERTISING

This is really a personal matter and many things enter in for consideration and no difference how conservative the beginner may be, he is sure to feel that he has thrown away some money in certain advertisements. Yet in this he may be mistaken, for results may come in all manners and the best will not always be forgotten.

Do not expect your public announcements to do it right. Right here, it is true that beginners come to grief. They forget that a pleased customer is the best advertisement. Your press statement is merely a sort of introduction after all, just bringing buyer and seller together. The buyer does not take care of him. It should never be forgotten that the building of a good kennel business depends as much upon the way the new customer is treated as upon his first visit.

First be sure you have the goods to deliver; and then let your values, service and courtesy be such as to make people want to buy your stock and tell their friends about it. That is good advertising, but better than that is the word of mouth.

No difference how good may be your stock, it will not sell itself. There are many ways of advertising, such as constantly telling people what you have, showing them samples, and giving them free showing; and the many uses of printers ink. Having Airedales that will work and surprise "the natives" is also very good. To have one or two Airedales that are so good that every inquiry of your stock is one of the beat means of advertising, since every inquirer will receive a favorable report. Also, when you have attainable prices on your stock and the press will gladly advertise you in a way that money will not cost you.

Remember, too, that printed matter has a personality of its own, and send out your handbills cards and circulars only if they are allowed to make your stock more attractive. Many printed pages today have all have considerable advertising value, and are well worth what they cost. The very letter you write is often the basis upon which a distant customer builds his opinion of the quality of your pro- ducy; and y ur kennel literature stands for yourself to people  THE AIREDALE

who have never met you. Take time therefore over your circulars and stud cards; and personally make sure the proofs are correct before printing.

It is well to find to inspire confidence in a kennel more than con- tinuous, temperamentally worded and truthful advertising. It is up to each individual to decide and to ascertain what particular qualities he wishes to see in his stock. If you have the quality in stock, distance is not to be considered to any great extent, but there must be something in your announce- ments that will attract attention and draw the buyer's weight. When an inquiry is received it is up to you to handle this in a way that will bring results. Cuts of at least some of your stock will aid greatly in this matter.

The editors of most of the kennel papers will be pleased to aid you in getting up copy for their respective papers, and their ex- perience in this line is worth considering.

Advertising is a means of obtaining immediate returns and if one has the stock, it is best to keep eternally at advertising and the results will come.

Expensive advertising is most likely to reach persons who are looking for cheap stuff. The cost of an ad that will sell sufficient stock is much less, than is an expensive ad. The beginner putting large sums into advertising, till he has learned where to place such ads, and equally important is his ability to

Three months old puppy bringing in the morning paper.  90 THE AIREDALE

know his stock and the Airedale game in every detail. This may only be had by experience. Get your stock; know what you have; advertise honestly and conservatively; treat every inquirer well, whether he buys or not; keep eternally at it and the results are sure to come.  CHAPTER XIV. MISCELLANEOUS

This chapter is intended to contain some things that have oc- curred to us after the writing of the foregoing ones and some other "random shots."

The dogs health and happiness depends on the good treatment you give them, and on the food they receive. A display of Rotten oats cooked in milk, is excellent food for a bitch in whelp. Cooked vegetables, carrots, turnips, onions etc., should be fed also once or twice a week, but the vegetables should be discon- tinued when the puppies are weaned. Oatmeal, rolled oats cooked in milk, dog biscuit broken and fed in broth, cooked and raw lean beef, should be the principal food for the nursing bitches and puppies during the first two weeks of life.

Did you ever stop to think that all the pay the dog realizes he gets from you, is your displayed affection? As food and a bed, you are his only possessions. If you neglect him, or let him let him accompany you or be near you, or caress him and thank him for some act of his, then he thinks he is being paid and that all is the same to him. This quiet in expensive to you, so let yourself be quite sure to satisfy him, but not sufficient to cause him want to too much carressing.

A choke collar may be used on some Airedales to advantage, but as a rule I do not use it.

Don't put pepper in the food at all times, only when it is thought necessary to free them from worms.

A rope or cord about 3 feet long, knotted on each end, will provide much amusement and exercise for them. Also will limbs form trees if piled up so they may climb and jump over them and crawl under them.

A medicine chest should be provided and such remedies as are needed, kept free from dust and where they may be easily found. Feces must be frequently sprinkled in the retainer in which the droppings are collected. Use fly traps or fly paper also should be used.

Mother and puppies should have a wire screen in summer, to protect them from flies and other insects.  92 THE AIREDALE

Uneaten food should not be left for an attraction to flies. "Come-back" bread obtained from restaurants, soaked in broth, with which is mixed some bran and rolled oats, provides an inexpensive appetizing meal.

Frequently a bad feeder may be made to eat more by placing another dish of food before him, and then leaving it.

Also pretending to take the food from him, will frequently cause him to want it.

Clean fresh water doesn't cost much and you like it for your own consumption, don't you? Same is true of the food dishes. Cod liver oil may be put in food for puppies, to an advantage. Concrete walls are very useful in constructing kennel buildings. Is easy to cleanse, prevents drafts and is most sanitary. Some tell us that a colt will quit, when driving stock in warm weather, because he has no shade.

A brainy Airedale will quickly adapt himself to most any vocation and surroundings. Whatever his master does he will want to aid in doing. He will follow his master about the house, one of that will carry a lighted lantern to the barn for her master, when he returns home at night. The writer once - she is not for sale - had a dog who would catch and catch the noise in her mouth at one time and the third with her feet. She stops poultry fights, points quail, retrieves from land or water, will fight a cyclone, is a splendid companion. She is also a winning bitch and the dam of the breed with the best record.

When we wrote the chapter on proper manets, we did not expect to own Champion Midland Royal, but since what was written, is now a reality, we feel that we have been justified.

Finally: We mentioned to the business manager of one of the kennel managers that we were thinking of getting out a book describing our breed. The manager replied that he thought said business manager suggested that a book on the breed in general, be written instead. So if we have failed to benefit you dear reader, we are sorry.

If we have been of any aid to you or the noble breed of dogs, in whose interest this effort is primarily made, or any other breed we shall be pleased and will pass that pleasure along to the said busi-ness manager.  INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

Companions. 11 Out with the sergeant. 12 Hy-Born Defiance and "Tom". 14 Haphazard, a. 17 Model. 20 Ch. Clomel Rough and Ready. 30 Feeding time. 36 A promising litter. 48 Bitch and lion skin. 52 Child, lynx and Airedale. 56 Hy-Born Lady and quail. 57 View of kennels. 60 A good type of house. 63 A splendid young bitch. 80 Hy-Born Belle. 82 Show and Utility type. 82 Bringing morning paper. 89  INDEX

Achievements to be attained Adaptability, 10, 13, 15, 18 Agriculture, 16 All round good ones, 16 Aristocrat, 17 Bee hunting, 18 Bear hunting, 27 Bear for bitches and puppies, 26, 91 Bear for hunting, 26 Ball-shaped mangle, 27 Bark, 28 Bears, 29 Bears are cheaper, 22, 44 Bitches are cheaper, 22, 44 Bitches in use, keeping, 27 Bitches in use, training, 27 Boar growing (see Calcium) Phosphates, Bear hunting, 29 Bone, coming fawning, 30 Bone for dogs, 30 Brake, 31 Brake for dogs, 31 Brake for horses, 31 Brake for use on roads, 32 Breeder's Assurance, 20, 21 Breeding care and feed, 37, 45 Breeding care of dogs, 30 Breeding care of horses, 30 Breeding care of mares, 30 Breeding care of mules, 30 Breeding care of stallions, 30 Breeding care of swine, 35 Breeding care of swine for breeding or buying, 35 Breeding care of swine for raising or selling, 35 Breeding cost average number of animals per year, 35 Breed bitch care and feed, 37, 45 Breed bitch care of breast milk feeding and weaning of puppies and kittens, 38 Breed bitch care of nursing and suckling of puppies and kittens, 38 Breed bitch contracting die-off disease (see Rabies), 38 Breed bitch disease of edema (see Edema), 38 Breed bitch disease of fever (see Fever), 38 Breed bitch disease of fever (see Malaria), 38 Breed bitch disease of fever (see Typhus), 38 Breed bitch disease of fever (see Yellow fever), 38 Breed bitch disease of fever (see Yellow fever), 38 Breed bitch frequent large ill- nesses, Brood bitch giving calcium to puppies and kittens (see Calcium), 44 Brood bitch going out of use (see Use), 44 Brood bitch good necessary (see Necessary), 45 Brood bitch inattive before breeding (see Inattive before breeding), 45 Brood bitch milk cows vs. calves (see Milk cows vs. calves), 45 Brood bitch period (see Period), 45 Brood bitch supply of gesta- tion food (see Gestation food), Brood bitch supply of milk (see Milk supply), 45 Brood bitch supply when nursing (see Nursing supply), 45 Brood bitch time in whelping (see Whelping time), 45 Brood bitch working off (see Working off), 45 Brood dog making off (see Making off), 45 Brood dog making up (see Making up), 45 Brood dog making up with heat (see Making up with heat), 45 

Dioenictomis.	61, 64	Light eaters,	10, 28
Dispersing, 41	65	Lion hunting,	38, 44
Dispositions,	9	Lion hunting,	37
Disposing, 16	10	Lion hunting,	36
Dwelling,	24, 26	Lions, breaking up,	54
Ears, canker,	73	Mange,	71
Eating, breeding stock.	63	Mating for convenience,	16, 17, 38
Eating, breeding stock.	63	Mating for convenience,	16, 17, 38
Eating, exhibition masts.	10, 25, 27	Mating for convenience,	16, 17, 38
Eating, express agents as agents.	87	Mating for convenience,	16, 17, 38
Fad, not out.	24	Mother, idle for,	37, 49
Faithful, breeding from two.	24	Mother, idle for,	37, 49
Fashion, changing of,	42	Mother's pugils,

Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)

Fearing,alright changes in,Mother's pugils,

Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)
Mating for convenience, (cont.)

Fecundity,large hens.Nest long arched.

Nest long arched.
Nest long arched.

Fecundity,puppies bad doors.Noam, the;

Noam, the;
Noam, the;

Fecundity,puppies bad doors.

Noam, the;
Noam, the;

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,

Nursing vs. breeding.
Nursing vs. breeding.

Fecundity,Nursing vs. breeding. )
                                                                   
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 Quail painting. 11, 56 Quality of quality ones. (See Quail.) Quality and utility, breeding of. Quiet one, game. 30, 51

Rabbits. 73 Rabbits, breeding on. 11 Rabbits, as. 37, 55 Breeding on people. Reproduction from handbreed. 13, 42 Reproduction from handbreed, or a reputation. Retrievers. 83, 54, 55 Reward of breeder. 15, 42 Running dogs used for. 24, 30 Running rabbits and deer. Seal or points. 74 Sighters. 23, 25, 30 Selling. Sheep breeding. 18, 84 Sheep, one or two. 35, 84 Shipping. Show and utility class. 15, 86 Show and utility show. 15, 86 Showing over. 50 Showing under. 50 Shrews. 15, 78 Skull, narrow. 70 Skull, short and dry. 70 Such new to hutchery. 46 Such new to hutchery, continued. 46 Standard, correcting to. 11, 23 Stomach, size of. 23 Stomach size of. continued. 23 Stocking for use. 27, 24, 30 Stock, free from worms. Stocking for use. continued. 27, 25, 29, 30

Stud will insure youngerstes. Stud's purchase price. 28 Stud's purchase price for lease. 93 Stud value of pedigree. 27, 29 Stud value of pedigree for lease. 29 Sulphur. 25

Tables, feeding from. Fertilizing with manure or straw. Fertilizing with straw or manure. Three kinds. Tooth decay. See Decay. Tooth decay in teeth. See Decay. Tooth decay in teeth and gums. Training dog for hunting. See Training dog for hunting. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued. Training dog for hunting, continued.

Ungles varied. 46 Underhaut.

Values of meat and flesh.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

Vegetable seedlings.

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Worming dogs need foods that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain plenty protein such as meat or fish or eggs or milk or milk products or vegetables that contain 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meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorvegetables that contain plenty protein such as meatorfishoreggsormilkormilkproductsorsuchasmeatorfishereggsORMILKORMILKPRODUCTSORVEGETABLESTHATCONTAINPLENTYPROTEIN SUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKORMILKPRODUCTORSUCHASMEATORFISHOREGGSORMILKOM  [API_EMPTY_RESPONSE]